I was thinking about adding a turbo, but decided to stay naturally aspirated after considering the additional cost. Might add a turbo in the future if I start craving more power, but I'd have to be sure the NA block could hold up to the extra stress without wearing prematurely. (No oil squirters and I read that the D24 block is a softer alloy compared to the D24T block, but I haven't verified that)
no the block material is the same, it is fine to run turbo on an N/A block aslong as it is the r12 block with the bigger head bolts and i can confirm that by looking at the video. Alot of people here in sweden run 14-20 psi of boost on N/A blocks. the oil squiters are only there for cooling and you get the same result using an oil cooler as alot of people here. if you grab the oil filter housing from a 940 diesel some of the have ports for both the turbo and cooling, bet i bet those are hard to find in the us. the oil filter housing from a b230FK will fit the d24 you just need to modify a pin slightly. One added fact aswell that is nice about d24 is that you dont need to drill a hole for the return in the pan. If you get an adapter for the oil plug and run a hose to it it will work just fine because the oil pickup is so close to the drain plug so it will pull the oil from the return line and it wont backup, i havce ran that setup for 3+ years and never swapped a turbo. If you need any more info on these engines feel free to contact me as i have worked alot on theese engines. Greetings from sweden!! noce engine btw@@LongbowMedia
Great video. I have a small oil leak I believe coming from the valve block behind the motor. After a restoration in 2017 it’s slightly gotten worse. Do you think torquing down the triple square bolts under the valve cover would help?
I got mine from Tom Bryant, who had some spares around: thosbryant.wordpress.com/ I've also seen a 1.61mm and 1.57mm for sale, which look to be MLS judging by the product photo, but should probably be confirmed before ordering: swissarmyvehicles.com/pinzdiesel/engine
I don't believe ARP sells a kit directly for the D24, with the proper quantity of studs. ARP-204-4706 are the correct studs, but you will either need to purchase a second kit or the remaining studs individually.
You have a gem, great video Sir.
Very good work for this 240 diesel. Bravo.
Superb video, it's the same engine as my Vw Lt31😍
Awesome build! Great to see, would love to see that on a B230f or ft :) Appreciate the Volvo Content, Greetings from Germany :)
Hopefully my B230F doesn't break down and need a rebuild anytime soon, haha.
Great work. It was a pleasure to watch 👀👍
Love it great work 🎉
That looks mint my friend, thank you for sharing the process
nice job very clean build! did you consider a turbo engine or did you want to keep it na?
I was thinking about adding a turbo, but decided to stay naturally aspirated after considering the additional cost. Might add a turbo in the future if I start craving more power, but I'd have to be sure the NA block could hold up to the extra stress without wearing prematurely. (No oil squirters and I read that the D24 block is a softer alloy compared to the D24T block, but I haven't verified that)
@@LongbowMedia yeah you should really use a factory turbo engine rather than just adding a turbo
no the block material is the same, it is fine to run turbo on an N/A block aslong as it is the r12 block with the bigger head bolts and i can confirm that by looking at the video. Alot of people here in sweden run 14-20 psi of boost on N/A blocks. the oil squiters are only there for cooling and you get the same result using an oil cooler as alot of people here. if you grab the oil filter housing from a 940 diesel some of the have ports for both the turbo and cooling, bet i bet those are hard to find in the us. the oil filter housing from a b230FK will fit the d24 you just need to modify a pin slightly. One added fact aswell that is nice about d24 is that you dont need to drill a hole for the return in the pan. If you get an adapter for the oil plug and run a hose to it it will work just fine because the oil pickup is so close to the drain plug so it will pull the oil from the return line and it wont backup, i havce ran that setup for 3+ years and never swapped a turbo. If you need any more info on these engines feel free to contact me as i have worked alot on theese engines. Greetings from sweden!! noce engine btw@@LongbowMedia
Great video. I have a small oil leak I believe coming from the valve block behind the motor. After a restoration in 2017 it’s slightly gotten worse. Do you think torquing down the triple square bolts under the valve cover would help?
This can be completed, over lunch.
Hi, what is the music called? And very well made video!
Have you reused the connecting rod bolts and nuts?
Yep.
Interesting use of mayonnaise to lubricate the pistons.
Didn't want to stain the cylinder walls with mustard.
It's a volkswagen, so it's fine
What's your source of the MLS headgasket? Elring used to sell them, but they no longer do.
I got mine from Tom Bryant, who had some spares around: thosbryant.wordpress.com/
I've also seen a 1.61mm and 1.57mm for sale, which look to be MLS judging by the product photo, but should probably be confirmed before ordering: swissarmyvehicles.com/pinzdiesel/engine
Hey feller your thumbnail says VW engine.
But the title says Volvo.
Or was the diesel Volvo engine made by Volkswagen?
Yep, VW manufactured the 6 cylinder IDI for Volvo passenger cars.
ARP fasteners wich one because i look for some to mine d24tic ?
I don't believe ARP sells a kit directly for the D24, with the proper quantity of studs.
ARP-204-4706 are the correct studs, but you will either need to purchase a second kit or the remaining studs individually.
Turbo !!