INTERARMS Mark X .243
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- Опубліковано 20 тра 2017
- Today I'm playing around with a Interarms Mark X 243. This gun doesn't want to group. I try several different loads and 2 - 6 inches is about all it will do at 100 yards. It has an older Leupold scope that may be the problem. I will keep playing around with it and see what I can do.
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Very solid well built Guns.
Got one in 30-06 for around 300 dollars a few years back and it's become one of my all time favorite rifles. That slick Mauser action, easy to find ammo and not too expensive all things considered, 5 rounds on tap, open sights from the factory, and a beautiful wood stock. I liked zastava for their aks but my mark x made me a fanboy for the company.
I've never had a Leupold scope or a Zastava rifle not deliver the goods. I'd be checking the barrel condition and the scope mounts and rings.
If there is a problem with the scope (very unlikely with a Leupold) you can send it back and they will fix or replace it. I have many Leupold scopes and have been using them for forty years, not one has needed touching after being zeroed in.
The Mark X (pronounced Mark Ten, it is a Roman numeral) / Alpine / Interarms / Zastava Model 70 rifles are a reliable and invariably accurate bit if gear.
You will be a lot kinder to your extractor if you push the rounds into the magazine and feed them from there. Dropping them onto the follower or into the chamber forces the big claw extractor's short end to flex in a way it was never designed to do and puts considerable strain on it. The modern Mausers such as yours have the front of the extractor bevelled so that you can chamber them (in an emergency), but it is a practice best avoided.
That is one helluva shooting bench, I love it!
PS, I bought a 70s -80s vintage Alpine Mauser in 243Win at the local gunshow on the weekend. It has an old 8X Weaver Scope on it. It is essentially the same rifle as yours, just sold to a European importer / contractor and branded differently.
Thanks.
My experience has been that Bipods don't work too well on tables; they are meant to work in dirt. They jump around quite a bit on hard surfaces giving erratic recoils. Try either a sandbag under the bipod or just shoot off a bag in front. I've seen Ruger Precision Rifles with high end scopes shoot 6" groups at 100 yards off a bipod and a table. Same rifles with a sandbags under the bipod shot clover leafs.
An Observation: I agree. Ive had the same experience with most bipods. I’m sure there are some higher end units available that don’t jump around much, but I have yet to use one. I only use a bipod when prone on the ground. If you’re trying to flush out why the rifle is shooting all over the place, start by shooting from a ransom rest or lead sled. That will at least remove one very important variable.
We used bipods at work and the are no soft surfaces in a prison, haha. We used to 'load' the bipod, that is, push forward on it, taking all of the slack and play out of it. They worked a lot better that way.
The month and year of the rifle is stamped right behind the ejection port
I have a mark x in 270 shoots great hopefully, you'll get it worked out.
Thank you for your respond sir
How can you adjust scope with one shoot? You must be assuming they are gonna shoot one hole groups!
Good video
Just curious, is that one of them Mausers with the big extractor claw, the kind you're not supposed to ram the bolt closed on a round pushed into the chamber?
Joel.....why yes it is.
Yes it sure is!!!
Mark 10
That looks like a project gun for sure. funny how it tended to string the lighter bullets low and the heavier bullets high. I guess you start off with the basics like making sure everything is tight and that the barrel isn't touching and that the crown is good and go on from there.
The barrel may be shot out also. I play around with it and see what happens.
Greetings SiR, I have a 22-250 interarms that I would like to know how to disassemble the bolt if you have a video or advice how, I would really appreciate it.thank you and good day
Richard ..
I don't know. That was a borrowed gun, and I don't have it any more.
One thing that threw me for a loop was your statement in the beginning...."I'm gonna aim at my last impact." This was after you made a correction to your POI which was low and left of some spot on the target you were aiming at. That makes no sense, please explain your reasoning. Were additional shots always shot at the "last impact"?
I am just using the first impact as an aiming point. It was a 16 steel with no "bullseye" or anything on it. It's no different than painting a white dot on it.
HI.
GREAT VIDEOS AND VERY WELL EXPLAINED.
I NEED YOU TO HELP ME .
I AM NEW IN RELOADING
I WAS GIVEN A RIFLE, WINCHESTER, MODEL 100, CALIBER 243, BARRELS 22 "
I WOULD LIKE YOUR OPINION TO MAKE AN OPTIMAL RELOADING FOR CACERIA.
GUNPOWDER:
GRAIN:?
PRIME: REMINGTON 9 1/2 LARGE RIFLE.
BULLET: CAL. 243, 100 GRAIN SP, ORYX BONDED
THANKS NPOR YOUR HELP.
If memory serves me , those Interarms were basic Mauser actions . Never knew anyone with a .243 in those , but had a buddy with one in .270 that shot very well . I'm assuming that you tried to tighten all the screws ? I've seen that before .
Also , why not invest in a wood frame target and use paper or cardboard ? I've never liked to shoot steel in grouping rounds before. Just my opinion , and we all know how much that's worth ! Lol .
If you just took the rifle and started shooting it without checking the scope you will never get the rifle to shoot right. Most of the time when people put scopes on rifles they never check to see what the torque specs. for the hold down screws are suppose to be tightened at. Believe it or not it doesn't matter what kind of a scope you put on whatever kind of rifle you are putting it on, if you overtorque the screws you will never get a consistent point of aim with the scope, unless you are lucky and don't tighten it like it's a wheel lug. Every scope is designed for a certain torque range and if it's not put on like it is suppose to be the lenses and the adjustment screws will not be able to set in the scope where you are trying to get it to move to. Just about every rifle I have had brought to me after somebody bought a scope and put it on by themselves has always been the same way. the screws are so tight that the scope cannot function correctly. I have even seen somebody split a scope body into two pieces just by tightening it too tight. So, take it from an old pro that has been doing this for over 50 years. Look at the instructions that come with the scope and use an appropriate torque wrench to set the tension. You would not believe just how little torque you need to properly set a scope in a mount that has been properly prepared.
Should be 1" or less at a hundred
"only accurate rifles are interesting".....Townsend Whelen