HOW TO REPLACE DRIVERS CV AXLE ON A 2010 MAZDA 3
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2024
- Today I will be replacing the CV Axle on my girlfriends 2010 Mazda 3. She wanted to help and she did pretty good! This is a good video to follow if you want to learn how to replace the drivers side CV axle on a 2010 Mazda 3 or probably all the 1st and second generation mazda 3's. Front CV Axle Drive Shaft Replacement Removal Mazda 2 3 5 6 CX-7 CX-5 CX-9 CX-3. 2004-2011 Mazda 3 CV Axel Shaft Replacement
Here Is The Parts & Tools List!
CV Axle Slide Hammer: amzn.to/3Sbym3b
48MM Inner CV Axle Puller: amzn.to/498BjIN
TRQ Drivers Side CV Axle: amzn.to/48K9Wom
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I appreciate all the help and support on this build! If you have any parts or tools for sale to help the build or if you wanted to send me something that I can unbox on the channel, let me know in the comments and I will open a P.O. Box!
**4 MONTH UPDATE USING TRQ CV AXLE**
About 3months into using the TRQ brand cv axle my car started to develop a clunk sound (metal on metal clunk) when shifting from park to reverse and reverse to drive. Seems like the inner cv splines that connect to the transmission have developed play, were machined just a hair too small compared to oem or just too soft of metal. I ended up replacing with an OEM cv axle I found on eBay. Surprisingly looks hardly driven and no rust at all, still had paint on it. So for anyone attempting to do this themselves I highly recommend you either re-boot and re-grease your OEM CV AXLE!! or buy the best looking OEM online/junkyard cv axle or just bite the bullet and buy the OEM from dealer/online supplier ($350-400) the part number is GG6225600B
TORQUE SPECS:
The outer tie rod torque spec is 29-36 ft Ibs.
The axle nut torque spec is 175-202 ft Ibs.
The lower control arm ball joint retaining bolt torque spec is 33-42 ft Ibs.
The stabilizer bar link nut torque spec is 23-44 ft Ibs.
The front brake caliper bolt torque spec is 61-73 ft Ibs.
I like how you made it into a step by step video tutorial. Everything is so clear. We need more tutorials like this ❤
Glad you liked it! i will definitely make more!
Content, step by step, voice over, and helping out were well done! Please keep it coming!
I will! Thank you!
Good stuff brodie! keep the content going!
Thanks! Will do!
Nice job on the how-to. Thank you so much for the lighting! It makes it easy to see what’s going on.
Glad it was helpful!
Nicely done! Thx for the detailed process.
of course!
Mazda dealership wants to charge me 1 k for labor and parts you are saving me something like 600$ with this knowledge thank you for making this video. Hopefully i got this! 🤘🏾
$1k?!?!?! That’s insane. Go get 1AAuto cv axle, lifetime warranty and either the tool I used or a long metal punch and tap the back and it will pop out!!!! You do got this!
Hello mate good to see you still pushing on with the channel.how’s the golf build going.
Thank you! Golf is done and waiting for its new home. Just looking for a new owner so I can purchase another project!
Im going to check my rear wheel bearings on my 2012 Mazda 3. I have a shake happening at 30mph and 55mph after driving 5 miles (heat related). I just replaced the front ball joint and the inner intermediate cv shaft thinking it was the carrier bearing but didnt help
Bent rim, bad tires, not balanced tires, bad alignment. Lots of things that would cause vibration. Bad wheel bearings usually is a loud humming. Like a overly loud road noise
@@HaydenSchreier thanks for your reply I'll look more into it.
@@HaydenSchreier Had the tires balanced didnt help. Doesnt seem to be any wheel bearing noise. Tires arent too bad but will need to be replaced within the next 6 months because of normal wear. I have more to look into, thx for your help on this
yes of course
The outer tie rod torque spec is 29-36 ft lbs.
The axle nut torque spec is 175-202 ft lbs.
The lower control arm ball joint retaining bolt torque spec is 33-42 ft lbs.
The stabilizer bar link nut torque spec is 23-44 ft lbs.
The front brake caliper bolt torque spec is 61-73 ft lbs.
You shouldn't go gorilla on every nut and bolt with that 800 ft lb impact wrench. You don't want to put your girlfriend in danger because you didn't to use a torque wrench.
Of course, safety is #1. My impact is rated at 400ft lbs and unless I’m sitting there hammering it with ugga duggas it isn’t putting that much torque on it. But you are right, when my 1/2 inch torque comes in I will retorque it all to spec. Thank you for the correct torque specs!
i used a pry bar and had just enough leverage to pull it out.
I wish, my pry bar was too long to be useful
How long do you think this would take…if you have all the tools and you know what you’re doing?
well, since ive replaced everything recently, nothing was rusty or seized. if it was rusty that adds quite a lot of time, same thing if you find other parts that need replacing. BUT if i was to do this again maybe 2 hours all set and done, taking my time.
@@HaydenSchreierThank you!!
I watched many of those videos to get prepared to do it but they all miss the most annoying part: the part where you have to add transmission oil because it will leak when you remove the old axle and most cars don't have a stick above to fill again it's a pain you have to remove protection under the engine, find that damn filling screw, have the right socket and use a tube to fill. Also this oil has to be specific to manual or automatic they even have different kinds for different brands.
The amount that leaks out is quite minimal and if the fluid that comes out isnt bad and you have a clean bucket you can pour it back in. The 2010 mazda 3 has a dipstick on the top. Extremely easy to pour new or old fluid back in. the 2010 mazda 3 automatic uses specific MAZDA 3 fluid Type M you can get from the dealer or amazon. Otherwise you can use the direct manufacturer fluid which is IDEMITSU Type M Fluid
@@HaydenSchreier hey thank you for the reply good video it is indeed easy job! I have seen videos where 2 liters would pour out. Did mine yesterday lifted only one side of the car so it would drip less. Mine is a manual 2013 so it doesnt have a dipstick on top .
@@eric-anon yeah that will make it a little bit harder with a manual. good idea lifting it on one side
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Fry bar will come right off just tap few times it come right off
good to know. i bought some chisels and punches. next time ill give it a go
Great example for many mens in the wolrd
Thank you!
I tried TRQ/1A auto, failed less than 5000 miles.
Get another one it’s warrantied. How did you know it failed? I’ve done over 5k on mine no problems
One jack stand per side is not safe, always two per corner or one per corner and a jack supporting the centre front. Never put yourself one bad weld away from injury. Never use a pickle fork on anything, throw it in the trash.
You don't need to remove the brakes at all, you don't need to remove the tie-rod end either.
You just don't need a slide hammer to remove a drive shaft, you only see these in American videos, they're passed along like a virus. The drive shaft comes out of the transmission easily with a cold chisel tapped with a hammer, I don't know why you say the clearance is tight, it's not, there's loads of room on the Mazda 3. Using a slide hammer jams the locking ring against the inside lip of the transmission case which is why it becomes stubborn, you're actually causing it.
You removed the strut ??? WTH ? You don't even have to remove the strut to remove the entire transmission with the car on the ground !!
If you're new to working on cars, please ignore virtually everything in this video, I've never seen anything quite like it.
I have no idea why you would post a "how to" video when you seriously don't know what you're doing., this is a 30 minute job on the ground, INCLUDING draining and refilling the transmission. (which you didn't do)
Your video is nicely produced and edited, stick to that and PLEASE leave the mechanical side of things to someone who knows what they're doing. This video will put newbies to an awful lot of unnecessary work and risk of injury.
Here's how to remove the driveshafts, notice 2 jack stands per side - @ 1:00 - 3:22 ua-cam.com/video/34t26Fd4HTg/v-deo.html (This is a UK Mazda 3 with manual transmission but it's the same job)
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