**4 MONTH UPDATE USING TRQ CV AXLE** About 3months into using the TRQ brand cv axle my car started to develop a clunk sound (metal on metal clunk) when shifting from park to reverse and reverse to drive. Seems like the inner cv splines that connect to the transmission have developed play, were machined just a hair too small compared to oem or just too soft of metal. I ended up replacing with an OEM cv axle I found on eBay. Surprisingly looks hardly driven and no rust at all, still had paint on it. So for anyone attempting to do this themselves I highly recommend you either re-boot and re-grease your OEM CV AXLE!! or buy the best looking OEM online/junkyard cv axle or just bite the bullet and buy the OEM from dealer/online supplier ($350-400) the part number is GG6225600B TORQUE SPECS: The outer tie rod torque spec is 29-36 ft Ibs. The axle nut torque spec is 175-202 ft Ibs. The lower control arm ball joint retaining bolt torque spec is 33-42 ft Ibs. The stabilizer bar link nut torque spec is 23-44 ft Ibs. The front brake caliper bolt torque spec is 61-73 ft Ibs.
Mazda dealership wants to charge me 1 k for labor and parts you are saving me something like 600$ with this knowledge thank you for making this video. Hopefully i got this! 🤘🏾
$1k?!?!?! That’s insane. Go get 1AAuto cv axle, lifetime warranty and either the tool I used or a long metal punch and tap the back and it will pop out!!!! You do got this!
@@Haydenschreiermk2love the positivity and motivational energy Hayden. You seem like a very kind person. Many thanks for takin the time to make this vid for us Auto repair noobs
Got the new axle installed today, only problem is now I need new knuckle too! turns out the collar around the ball joint was broken 😨 and my wheel was being held onto the control arm by just a bolt lol...
oh that sucks! If you want i can go pull one from the junk yard and mail you it. might be cheaper than buying one online. let me know. if you're interested shoot me an email Haydenschreier98@gmail.com
The outer tie rod torque spec is 29-36 ft lbs. The axle nut torque spec is 175-202 ft lbs. The lower control arm ball joint retaining bolt torque spec is 33-42 ft lbs. The stabilizer bar link nut torque spec is 23-44 ft lbs. The front brake caliper bolt torque spec is 61-73 ft lbs. You shouldn't go gorilla on every nut and bolt with that 800 ft lb impact wrench. You don't want to put your girlfriend in danger because you didn't to use a torque wrench.
Of course, safety is #1. My impact is rated at 400ft lbs and unless I’m sitting there hammering it with ugga duggas it isn’t putting that much torque on it. But you are right, when my 1/2 inch torque comes in I will retorque it all to spec. Thank you for the correct torque specs!
Just go to Mazda and they will help you out with precisely the correct part. Just got one ant it was only $12. Piece of mind too with a part with such necessary tight tolerances specs and compression materials to hold the oil in. The guy who helped me told me as well he had a guy come in saying he tried a couple third party seals that leaked so he bought oem as well.
I am having so much trouble with this cv axle I bought 4 axles and none of them fit my car is a 2006 mazda 3 2.0L I am stuck without a car for 2 weeks almost going for 3 weeks any advice what part number did you order?
Clip opening up Bro!! right in the Mazda manual. You DONT want the free ends of that wire to be outboard of the splines (clip hanging open down) but nested into the groove as you can literally bend the exposed ends into the splines and jam it up good. I initially had TRQ CV's but luckily had bought manual trans for my AUTO and one was 1" too long, returned them. I ended up with another brand and have a slight ting on R but I think my intermediate shaft bearing is bad. I also tried that C-shaped remover but it would not fit so I cut one out of 3/8 plate I had a scrap of. Worked great and no strut removal as I didnt have any room for a crowbar under there. Passenger side can be tapped out by hitting the CV shell itself.
Watch the 1Aauto video at 12:00 he stated the ring should always be facing down. ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxeoeHY_rh5EeadmHyk3InEVzR7fgcWs_y?si=ygLeVkLCXpVvRJur it was my first time replacing cv axle. i since replaced the TRQ one as it was making a clunking noise shifting from park to reverse and into drive. i out a OEM one in and it fixed the problem. this time all i did was take the knuckle out of the ball joint and use a pry bar to pop the axle out. I did the whole job in 30 minutes
Dude, due… dude… you have a Mazda manual? Lol. Where in the world did you get it? I have tried so hard to find one for Mazda 3 2012 2.5l and I have only been able to find one for a manual transmission. I know you most likely don’t have the same model as mine but where did you get yours? Are manuals just year specific and not specific to 2.0l or 2.5l etc cetera? I Tried purchasing pdfs a couple times because I really wanted to find the right one.
well, since ive replaced everything recently, nothing was rusty or seized. if it was rusty that adds quite a lot of time, same thing if you find other parts that need replacing. BUT if i was to do this again maybe 2 hours all set and done, taking my time.
its on amazon! www.amazon.com/philotes%C2%AE-Rechargeable-Magnetic-Underhood-Waterproof/dp/B0CBDDYG2L/ref=sr_1_19?crid=2P1Z76EHANM9N&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.acmnIKibDTA2tOsxRYF4fBJfT7O_t8si22197LXsBNoaZlZ-rGHLA8kIPQhil4fg_ZpctzgksCu32hkj5bohMC18oY1CPlP47ZWunZyGs2WpEGs-cUnA_7mNPVCewk7NPnDudIwd0BJlzGelo-yy9fU9J7cqwb2VQHVXsbn7XS5WNUaioXs5PjsAe5moRJQW9m6lhclYHEkJmm4ukNvJCKxP_5h1Cn23ceP5ltkNPWIa3Qw-Fy6oV1n2uL-5drsw23DDS2NaWycNh-FQRYa4v5zXq4-3excDD2YCb25ls3o.uV0kzknbDugxPCQvMnb7BDVf5EVxGbI27wTjlboHRRw&dib_tag=se&keywords=mechanic+light+bar&qid=1726001738&sprefix=mechanic+light+ba%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-19
Im going to check my rear wheel bearings on my 2012 Mazda 3. I have a shake happening at 30mph and 55mph after driving 5 miles (heat related). I just replaced the front ball joint and the inner intermediate cv shaft thinking it was the carrier bearing but didnt help
Bent rim, bad tires, not balanced tires, bad alignment. Lots of things that would cause vibration. Bad wheel bearings usually is a loud humming. Like a overly loud road noise
@@Haydenschreiermk2 Had the tires balanced didnt help. Doesnt seem to be any wheel bearing noise. Tires arent too bad but will need to be replaced within the next 6 months because of normal wear. I have more to look into, thx for your help on this
yeah i didnt have a short enough crow bar at the time of making the video under the car. since then i have bought a smaller one and replaced the TRQ axle with an OEM one and was able to pop the cv axle out with a pry bar. i got it done in under 30 minutes
I watched many of those videos to get prepared to do it but they all miss the most annoying part: the part where you have to add transmission oil because it will leak when you remove the old axle and most cars don't have a stick above to fill again it's a pain you have to remove protection under the engine, find that damn filling screw, have the right socket and use a tube to fill. Also this oil has to be specific to manual or automatic they even have different kinds for different brands.
The amount that leaks out is quite minimal and if the fluid that comes out isnt bad and you have a clean bucket you can pour it back in. The 2010 mazda 3 has a dipstick on the top. Extremely easy to pour new or old fluid back in. the 2010 mazda 3 automatic uses specific MAZDA 3 fluid Type M you can get from the dealer or amazon. Otherwise you can use the direct manufacturer fluid which is IDEMITSU Type M Fluid
@@Haydenschreiermk2 hey thank you for the reply good video it is indeed easy job! I have seen videos where 2 liters would pour out. Did mine yesterday lifted only one side of the car so it would drip less. Mine is a manual 2013 so it doesnt have a dipstick on top .
i ended up doing this a second time and just used a pry bar, i had a new one in in 30mins. yes show didnt need to come out but it was my time doing it so with the tool the shock kept getting in the way. moving forward a pry bar was so easy!
**4 MONTH UPDATE USING TRQ CV AXLE**
About 3months into using the TRQ brand cv axle my car started to develop a clunk sound (metal on metal clunk) when shifting from park to reverse and reverse to drive. Seems like the inner cv splines that connect to the transmission have developed play, were machined just a hair too small compared to oem or just too soft of metal. I ended up replacing with an OEM cv axle I found on eBay. Surprisingly looks hardly driven and no rust at all, still had paint on it. So for anyone attempting to do this themselves I highly recommend you either re-boot and re-grease your OEM CV AXLE!! or buy the best looking OEM online/junkyard cv axle or just bite the bullet and buy the OEM from dealer/online supplier ($350-400) the part number is GG6225600B
TORQUE SPECS:
The outer tie rod torque spec is 29-36 ft Ibs.
The axle nut torque spec is 175-202 ft Ibs.
The lower control arm ball joint retaining bolt torque spec is 33-42 ft Ibs.
The stabilizer bar link nut torque spec is 23-44 ft Ibs.
The front brake caliper bolt torque spec is 61-73 ft Ibs.
I like how you made it into a step by step video tutorial. Everything is so clear. We need more tutorials like this ❤
Glad you liked it! i will definitely make more!
Content, step by step, voice over, and helping out were well done! Please keep it coming!
I will! Thank you!
Nice job on the how-to. Thank you so much for the lighting! It makes it easy to see what’s going on.
Glad it was helpful!
Mazda dealership wants to charge me 1 k for labor and parts you are saving me something like 600$ with this knowledge thank you for making this video. Hopefully i got this! 🤘🏾
$1k?!?!?! That’s insane. Go get 1AAuto cv axle, lifetime warranty and either the tool I used or a long metal punch and tap the back and it will pop out!!!! You do got this!
@@Haydenschreiermk2love the positivity and motivational energy Hayden. You seem like a very kind person. Many thanks for takin the time to make this vid for us
Auto repair noobs
Good stuff brodie! keep the content going!
Thanks! Will do!
Nicely done! Thx for the detailed process.
of course!
Got the new axle installed today, only problem is now I need new knuckle too! turns out the collar around the ball joint was broken 😨 and my wheel was being held onto the control arm by just a bolt lol...
oh that sucks! If you want i can go pull one from the junk yard and mail you it. might be cheaper than buying one online. let me know. if you're interested shoot me an email Haydenschreier98@gmail.com
The outer tie rod torque spec is 29-36 ft lbs.
The axle nut torque spec is 175-202 ft lbs.
The lower control arm ball joint retaining bolt torque spec is 33-42 ft lbs.
The stabilizer bar link nut torque spec is 23-44 ft lbs.
The front brake caliper bolt torque spec is 61-73 ft lbs.
You shouldn't go gorilla on every nut and bolt with that 800 ft lb impact wrench. You don't want to put your girlfriend in danger because you didn't to use a torque wrench.
Of course, safety is #1. My impact is rated at 400ft lbs and unless I’m sitting there hammering it with ugga duggas it isn’t putting that much torque on it. But you are right, when my 1/2 inch torque comes in I will retorque it all to spec. Thank you for the correct torque specs!
Do you know the seal numbers for both sides?
no mine looked fine so i didnt replace them but you can find it on mazda parts website
Just go to Mazda and they will help you out with precisely the correct part. Just got one ant it was only $12. Piece of mind too with a part with such necessary tight tolerances specs and compression materials to hold the oil in. The guy who helped me told me as well he had a guy come in saying he tried a couple third party seals that leaked so he bought oem as well.
Hello mate good to see you still pushing on with the channel.how’s the golf build going.
Thank you! Golf is done and waiting for its new home. Just looking for a new owner so I can purchase another project!
locking split goes up?
whatever i showed in video is the correct way
I am having so much trouble with this cv axle I bought 4 axles and none of them fit my car is a 2006 mazda 3 2.0L I am stuck without a car for 2 weeks almost going for 3 weeks any advice what part number did you order?
my car is a 2010 which is different than yours. you can go on 1aauto.com and put your make model and year in
Clip opening up Bro!! right in the Mazda manual. You DONT want the free ends of that wire to be outboard of the splines (clip hanging open down) but nested into the groove as you can literally bend the exposed ends into the splines and jam it up good. I initially had TRQ CV's but luckily had bought manual trans for my AUTO and one was 1" too long, returned them. I ended up with another brand and have a slight ting on R but I think my intermediate shaft bearing is bad. I also tried that C-shaped remover but it would not fit so I cut one out of 3/8 plate I had a scrap of. Worked great and no strut removal as I didnt have any room for a crowbar under there. Passenger side can be tapped out by hitting the CV shell itself.
Watch the 1Aauto video at 12:00 he stated the ring should always be facing down. ua-cam.com/users/clipUgkxeoeHY_rh5EeadmHyk3InEVzR7fgcWs_y?si=ygLeVkLCXpVvRJur
it was my first time replacing cv axle. i since replaced the TRQ one as it was making a clunking noise shifting from park to reverse and into drive. i out a OEM one in and it fixed the problem. this time all i did was take the knuckle out of the ball joint and use a pry bar to pop the axle out. I did the whole job in 30 minutes
Dude, due… dude… you have a Mazda manual? Lol. Where in the world did you get it? I have tried so hard to find one for Mazda 3 2012 2.5l and I have only been able to find one for a manual transmission. I know you most likely don’t have the same model as mine but where did you get yours? Are manuals just year specific and not specific to 2.0l or 2.5l etc cetera? I Tried purchasing pdfs a couple times because I really wanted to find the right one.
How long do you think this would take…if you have all the tools and you know what you’re doing?
well, since ive replaced everything recently, nothing was rusty or seized. if it was rusty that adds quite a lot of time, same thing if you find other parts that need replacing. BUT if i was to do this again maybe 2 hours all set and done, taking my time.
@@Haydenschreiermk2Thank you!!
Where can I get the light? Thank you.
its on amazon! www.amazon.com/philotes%C2%AE-Rechargeable-Magnetic-Underhood-Waterproof/dp/B0CBDDYG2L/ref=sr_1_19?crid=2P1Z76EHANM9N&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.acmnIKibDTA2tOsxRYF4fBJfT7O_t8si22197LXsBNoaZlZ-rGHLA8kIPQhil4fg_ZpctzgksCu32hkj5bohMC18oY1CPlP47ZWunZyGs2WpEGs-cUnA_7mNPVCewk7NPnDudIwd0BJlzGelo-yy9fU9J7cqwb2VQHVXsbn7XS5WNUaioXs5PjsAe5moRJQW9m6lhclYHEkJmm4ukNvJCKxP_5h1Cn23ceP5ltkNPWIa3Qw-Fy6oV1n2uL-5drsw23DDS2NaWycNh-FQRYa4v5zXq4-3excDD2YCb25ls3o.uV0kzknbDugxPCQvMnb7BDVf5EVxGbI27wTjlboHRRw&dib_tag=se&keywords=mechanic+light+bar&qid=1726001738&sprefix=mechanic+light+ba%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-19
@@Haydenschreiermk2 Thank you for the info. Good Content 👍
i used a pry bar and had just enough leverage to pull it out.
I wish, my pry bar was too long to be useful
Im going to check my rear wheel bearings on my 2012 Mazda 3. I have a shake happening at 30mph and 55mph after driving 5 miles (heat related). I just replaced the front ball joint and the inner intermediate cv shaft thinking it was the carrier bearing but didnt help
Bent rim, bad tires, not balanced tires, bad alignment. Lots of things that would cause vibration. Bad wheel bearings usually is a loud humming. Like a overly loud road noise
@@Haydenschreiermk2 thanks for your reply I'll look more into it.
@@Haydenschreiermk2 Had the tires balanced didnt help. Doesnt seem to be any wheel bearing noise. Tires arent too bad but will need to be replaced within the next 6 months because of normal wear. I have more to look into, thx for your help on this
yes of course
I just used a crowbar to remove the axle. No need to remove the strut. It was half the time as this video and I'm a DIYer
yeah i didnt have a short enough crow bar at the time of making the video under the car. since then i have bought a smaller one and replaced the TRQ axle with an OEM one and was able to pop the cv axle out with a pry bar. i got it done in under 30 minutes
I watched many of those videos to get prepared to do it but they all miss the most annoying part: the part where you have to add transmission oil because it will leak when you remove the old axle and most cars don't have a stick above to fill again it's a pain you have to remove protection under the engine, find that damn filling screw, have the right socket and use a tube to fill. Also this oil has to be specific to manual or automatic they even have different kinds for different brands.
The amount that leaks out is quite minimal and if the fluid that comes out isnt bad and you have a clean bucket you can pour it back in. The 2010 mazda 3 has a dipstick on the top. Extremely easy to pour new or old fluid back in. the 2010 mazda 3 automatic uses specific MAZDA 3 fluid Type M you can get from the dealer or amazon. Otherwise you can use the direct manufacturer fluid which is IDEMITSU Type M Fluid
@@Haydenschreiermk2 hey thank you for the reply good video it is indeed easy job! I have seen videos where 2 liters would pour out. Did mine yesterday lifted only one side of the car so it would drip less. Mine is a manual 2013 so it doesnt have a dipstick on top .
@@eric-anon yeah that will make it a little bit harder with a manual. good idea lifting it on one side
Fry bar will come right off just tap few times it come right off
good to know. i bought some chisels and punches. next time ill give it a go
He had the right tool he needed to position in the front towards the right. Shocks do not need to be removed. That doesnt work use a giant pry handle.
i ended up doing this a second time and just used a pry bar, i had a new one in in 30mins. yes show didnt need to come out but it was my time doing it so with the tool the shock kept getting in the way. moving forward a pry bar was so easy!
I tried TRQ/1A auto, failed less than 5000 miles.
Get another one it’s warrantied. How did you know it failed? I’ve done over 5k on mine no problems
👍👍👍
Great example for many mens in the wolrd
Thank you!
Dude lol I just noticed your pully leveler is the wrong model. Next time get a CTA pulley not that wide wing.
i returned the whole thing lol and bought a smaller pry bar to fit under the car on jackstands. popped it right out.