Just a hint when lubing the chain ... always apply from the top of the lower half of the chain approx 4 inches forward of the rear sprocket so the lube is forced thru the links using the radial rotation ... if you apply on the top of the chain as you did in this vid then it just flies off without penetration ... Cheers ...
Thanks a ton, Dino! Great video! I just ordered this retainer for my XF650 (has the same engine as DR650 and yes- the same problem) Last year I had drive shaft seal leak so I replaced the seal, but unfortunately it popped out and it did drain all the oil from the engine. It was not fun. I lost rear brake while driving (thats how I realised, that something is wrong). I just replaced the seal for the second time and am waiting for the retainer to arrive. So I can assure, that this is a really important upgrade for any DR650 or XF650. Also I am going to measure the oil pressure. At first I thought that the high oil pressure might be the cause for seal to fail. But then I accidentally came across information that this is common issue for my bike. I'll measure the oil pressure anyways, just to be sure that the engine is ok. Thanks again and happy riding!
Thanks, Dino! This video, like all of your others, is extremely helpful. I appreciate the detail, and the effort that you go through to do timestamps for the various sections and also overlaying the torque specs during the re-insulation segments your delivery and insight really gives people the confidence to tackle jobs, that may otherwise seem intimidating. I just installed the countershaft seal retention bracket and thread locked my neutral, sending unit bolts last night. Your videos helped a bunch. Thank you.
Thank you very much for the feedback, I am glad you find the videos useful, my goal is exactly what you have mentioned, to make it less intimidation for new home tinkers to tackle jobs themselves. Thank you again. Dino
Thank you for the comment. I am no expert, however I would start by cleaning the seal very well with degreaser so that the output shaft and seal are nice and clean. You can do a visual inspection to see if anything looks out of place such as torn seal material. If all looks good you can ride the bike for maybe 20-30 miles and then take another look to see if there is any oil seepage around the output shaft. If its all dry, I would think the seal is good. hope this helps. Dino
Awesome video. Thanks Dino! I had a look at the Clymers manual and it says to torque only the lower bolt for the seal retainer to 97in.lbs/6nm. The upper bolt should be finger tight. After having stripped 2 threads for the oil filter on my 125 I became somewhat anxious lol.
Lol. I got bit by not following my own advice and did not look at the manual. I was indeed missing the dampener ring you talk mentioned and did not know it. I'll order one up. Thank you for making myself and others aware. Dino
Hi BADOLDBIKER, and thanks for the comment. You are correct, there should be a dampener ring between the sprocket and retainer. My bike did not have one and it was not untill another viewer pointed it out that I realized it. Lol I should have followed my own advice and looked at the manual before I started. Thanks again for the catch, it will help out others who are tackling this job Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed I think the standard dampener ring doesn't fit when a 14 tooth sproket is used, also have to mod the sprocket retainer. It looked like your sprocket retainer has not been modified and are you running a 16 tooth sproket? Ive never heard of a missing dampener ring causing any issues, apparently it is quite common to be missing. All the same it was a good video with good instructions.
I believe the comment supposed to be a rubber ring that rides on the inside of the retainer plate. People have pointed out that I am missing this plate. I think there will always be some play with this design but mine is most likely more than there should be. Thanks for the great question Dino
Dew to the antiquated design of dr 650 they run snail cams on the rear axle thus the chain is a bit to lose or a shit load to tight if you run a better than average chain and run it on the lose side of what you think is just right you don't need a seal retainer as the chain won't pull on the drive shaft leaving your chain piano string tight
@@DinosTinkerShed l have had a few old school bikes with the same system and its just a shit idea really the short swingarm and location of drive sprocket in relation to swing arm mount to frame and motor does not help to keep the chain in a neutral position for suspension travel
Sorry for the late reply, yes the overall design does have some looseness to it even from the start. I believe this is why they use that rubber o ring behind the retaining ring (mine is missing), and I have even seen some use silicone to tighten up the slop. I never rally worry to much about it myself but I do check for excessive wear when I clan and service mt drive line. Great question, thank you Dino
Oh Boy I dodged a bullet the other day Hadn’t had time to ride the Dr650 For a couple of weeks started the bike To warm up It was idling for about 30 seconds look down and there was a huge puddle Oil on the ground Sure enough it was the counter seal had popped out Thank God i was not riding the bike when this happened Definitely don’t want oil on the rear tire Besides blowing up the motor I ordered a new seal and retainer It was Easy fix My DR 650 has been basically bulletproof and has 32,000 miles on it But this is a major issue If you own one of these bikes please install the retainer It’s the best $20 you ever spent
This channel is pure Gold for Me as a new dr650 owner
Just a hint when lubing the chain ... always apply from the top of the lower half of the chain approx 4 inches forward of the rear sprocket so the lube is forced thru the links using the radial rotation ... if you apply on the top of the chain as you did in this vid then it just flies off without penetration ... Cheers ...
Thanks a ton, Dino! Great video! I just ordered this retainer for my XF650 (has the same engine as DR650 and yes- the same problem) Last year I had drive shaft seal leak so I replaced the seal, but unfortunately it popped out and it did drain all the oil from the engine. It was not fun. I lost rear brake while driving (thats how I realised, that something is wrong). I just replaced the seal for the second time and am waiting for the retainer to arrive. So I can assure, that this is a really important upgrade for any DR650 or XF650.
Also I am going to measure the oil pressure. At first I thought that the high oil pressure might be the cause for seal to fail. But then I accidentally came across information that this is common issue for my bike. I'll measure the oil pressure anyways, just to be sure that the engine is ok.
Thanks again and happy riding!
Thanks, Dino! This video, like all of your others, is extremely helpful. I appreciate the detail, and the effort that you go through to do timestamps for the various sections and also overlaying the torque specs during the re-insulation segments your delivery and insight really gives people the confidence to tackle jobs, that may otherwise seem intimidating. I just installed the countershaft seal retention bracket and thread locked my neutral, sending unit bolts last night. Your videos helped a bunch. Thank you.
Thank you very much for the feedback, I am glad you find the videos useful, my goal is exactly what you have mentioned, to make it less intimidation for new home tinkers to tackle jobs themselves.
Thank you again.
Dino
Another useful video, Dino. This is an inexpensive and worthwhile addition for the earlier DR's.
Thank you so much
Dino
Another great video, thanks Dino
Thank you
Dino
Easy job. Thanks. I’ve got a 2013 and wasn’t sure if I needed to do this.
Thank you for the comment, I think this might have been the easiest mod I have done. Did your 2013 have the retainer?
Thanks again Dino
Thank you for an excellent close up of how too, much appreciated! Very precise and detailed.
Thank you glad you enjoyed it.
Dino
This is a great vid im picking up a 2013 wondering exactly how to identify if seal is on its way out/bad apart from all the gunk
Thank you for the comment. I am no expert, however I would start by cleaning the seal very well with degreaser so that the output shaft and seal are nice and clean. You can do a visual inspection to see if anything looks out of place such as torn seal material. If all looks good you can ride the bike for maybe 20-30 miles and then take another look to see if there is any oil seepage around the output shaft. If its all dry, I would think the seal is good.
hope this helps.
Dino
Awesome video.
Awesome video. Thanks Dino! I had a look at the Clymers manual and it says to torque only the lower bolt for the seal retainer to 97in.lbs/6nm. The upper bolt should be finger tight. After having stripped 2 threads for the oil filter on my 125 I became somewhat anxious lol.
Thank you for the information
Dino
You are missing the rubber dumping ring behind the plate, that's common to miss it, mine was missing it too when i bought it.
Lol. I got bit by not following my own advice and did not look at the manual. I was indeed missing the dampener ring you talk mentioned and did not know it. I'll order one up. Thank you for making myself and others aware.
Dino
Nice well explained, enjoyed the video
Thank you
Dino
Thanks Dino, great instructional. I thought there was a dampener ring in there somewhere?
Hi BADOLDBIKER, and thanks for the comment. You are correct, there should be a dampener ring between the sprocket and retainer. My bike did not have one and it was not untill another viewer pointed it out that I realized it. Lol I should have followed my own advice and looked at the manual before I started.
Thanks again for the catch, it will help out others who are tackling this job
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed I think the standard dampener ring doesn't fit when a 14 tooth sproket is used, also have to mod the sprocket retainer. It looked like your sprocket retainer has not been modified and are you running a 16 tooth sproket? Ive never heard of a missing dampener ring causing any issues, apparently it is quite common to be missing. All the same it was a good video with good instructions.
Interesting. I did not know that
I'll do a bit of research into this. Thanks again for the information.
Weird, mine had spring washers on the 3 bolts holding the sprocket retaining plate...
Is play normal on the countershaft?
I believe the comment supposed to be a rubber ring that rides on the inside of the retainer plate. People have pointed out that I am missing this plate. I think there will always be some play with this design but mine is most likely more than there should be.
Thanks for the great question
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed Yeah I have a rubber ring too, but there's 3 lock washers on the 3 bolts, at least my bike had them...
@@Speedytrip interesting, I'll have to check the manual to see if this is listed. Thanks again for the information.
Dino
Dew to the antiquated design of dr 650 they run snail cams on the rear axle thus the chain is a bit to lose or a shit load to tight if you run a better than average chain and run it on the lose side of what you think is just right you don't need a seal retainer as the chain won't pull on the drive shaft leaving your chain piano string tight
Thank you for your feedback, great advice.
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed l have had a few old school bikes with the same system and its just a shit idea really the short swingarm and location of drive sprocket in relation to swing arm mount to frame and motor does not help to keep the chain in a neutral position for suspension travel
Wo gibt es die Sicherungsplatte zu kkaufen ?
I bought mine at the Suzuki dealer
Dino
@@DinosTinkerShed ich weiß nicht wo es so etwas in deutschland gibt?
@@marioheinrich2075 You will find it in Stefan Hessler's online shop, a great place for Suzuki fans.
Is it normal for front sprocket to have a bit of looseness or 'wobble' after replacing?
Sorry for the late reply, yes the overall design does have some looseness to it even from the start. I believe this is why they use that rubber o ring behind the retaining ring (mine is missing), and I have even seen some use silicone to tighten up the slop. I never rally worry to much about it myself but I do check for excessive wear when I clan and service mt drive line.
Great question, thank you
Dino
Oh Boy I dodged a bullet the other day Hadn’t had time to ride the Dr650 For a couple of weeks started the bike To warm up It was idling for about 30 seconds look down and there was a huge puddle Oil on the ground Sure enough it was the counter seal had popped out Thank God i was not riding the bike when this happened Definitely don’t want oil on the rear tire Besides blowing up the motor I ordered a new seal and retainer It was Easy fix My DR 650 has been basically bulletproof and has 32,000 miles on it But this is a major issue If you own one of these bikes please install the retainer It’s the best $20 you ever spent
Oh man, glad you noticed before it became a bigger issue
Dino