FYI - You do NOT turn the distributor shaft to get the high point on the lobe, you must turn the ENGINE over until the high point of the lobe meets the rubbing block on the points. Im 64 and was a shop mechanic for years, the only slight exception is the pre- '73 General Motors distributors with AC Delco points you could just install and using a dwell meter start the engine and adjust the points with an allen wrench style tool until the meter read between 28 to 32 degrees dwell with 30 degrees being the optimum on most cars. Further, once you set points such as the ones being done here youre supposed to find the actual factory dwell reading in the manual and use the dwell meter to be sure the points are set within the acceptable range. Yours probably is, but this is the proper routine on setting points in most all cars that had them back in the day - THEN after points are first correctly set youre supposed to check and if necessary set the ignition timing as correct ignition timing afterward because correct engine timing depends directly on points being correctly set FIRST. Your engine lagged on startup most likely because your engine timing was to far advanced or retarded possibly due to points and ore timing being off - hardly anyone today knows how to do this routine properly because point ignition is a thing of the past even on lawn mowers. Many of todays shop techs dont even know how to repair or service point ignition or carburetors as they arent used any more. Engines will be close enough to run set up quick like this but the tune up will suffer possibly with things like high fuel consumption, stumble, or engine pinging as timing is too far advanced. Also be aware ignition wires can look fine, but have high resistance internally causing misfires, you need to read up on the factory manual on the procedures to get proper results, you cant just be "close" it needs to be right.
I watch a lot of car maintenance videos and as a co-owner of a 1974 shadow in need of overhaul I’m really grateful to you for doing these. They are by far the best videos on maintenance I’ve seen. Awesome. Please keep going on the shadow and keep the videos coming. Thank you!
Another check which can be made is to start the car. Then on each carburettor push up the pin which is used to lift the piston in the dash pot. If the engine stalls it means that the fuel mixture is too lean/weak. This means there is not enough fuel going to the cylinders. The jet will have to be lowered by the screw on the lower end of the carburettor. If on the other hand when the piston is lifted the engine revs increase and stays that way, then the mixture is too rich and the jet needs to come up. A good idea is also to remove the spark plugs and see what condition they are in, whether fouled or defective. Cheers
Thanks, I'll see if I can try that. Btw I replaced the spark plugs in the previous episode. A few of the old ones were oily, indicating no ignition, but I hope that was fixed when I redid the ignition system. Might be useful to take the new ones out again and check them though.
Thanks for the excellent view of the distributor while you are working on it. The other creators usually give you a dark out of focus far away view. Now I can see exactly what is happening.
You’ve done a great job with your Shadow. I’m trying to bring a 1972 Shadow back to life myself. Between your videos and the comments, I’ve picked up several helpful tips. My vote is carburetor adjustment. Make sure they are cleaned and up topped up with oil. Adjust the mixture for each with the bottom nut and then balance them. Check the timing and you’ll be off and running. I’ll watch for your next video!
Thanks for the response! So happy you are rebuilding the carbs. U usually don’t need to replace the main jet needles. One on each side. Just make sure they don’t get bent! Clean everything up real good! Good luck with it!👍😊✌️
The problem why the engine is not running properly is because the points gap should be 15 thousands and not 35 thousands that you set it. That 35 thousands gap is for the spark plug which is to be set between 35 and 40 thousands. I believe that your problem will be solved and the engine will run as it should. Cheers
Thanks for the comment. My gauges are in millimeters, not inches, so I think I'm fine. As per the service manual: "set the gaps to between 0,356 mm. and 0,406 mm. (0.014 in. and 0.016 in.)." So I believe I have it set correctly (although I haven't measured the dwell angle - I don't have a dwell angle meter). The spark plug gaps up to serial number 22072 (mine is below that) should be 0.025 INCHES and I have that set correctly as well (see the previous episode where I replace the spark plugs). But yeah, hopefully the engine will soon be purring like a kitten :)
The hexagonal headed screw on the outside of the distributor is to set the dwell angle correctly while the engine is running. A much more accurate way to set the points gap. Probably best to take off the carb dash pots and clean them to within an inch of their lives. While they are off, open the throttle and check the butterflies are still tight as they can work loose making a smooth idle impossible.
Thanks, will do. I don't have a dwell angle meter but now I know how the dwell angle is related to the points gap (it's really different measurements of the same thing) and I'll see if I can measure it with a digital multimeter. About cleaning and checking things in the carbs - I did that partially, new video coming up!
I shall be treading the same path as you are on now with my silver shadow. Going through the fuel system and the ignition system. It’s good to watch you as you progress through the various phases of getting the engine running as it should. Keep up the good work and I am looking forward to the next video if you decide to overhaul the carburettors. I contacted AC carburettors here in England as I need to overhaul the carburettors on my 73 Shadow and they were very helpful. They supply a full rebuild kit specifically for those Rolls Royce carburettors.
I meant SU carburettors not ac . Sorry I didn’t mean to confuse the issue. SU . Have a very comprehensive carburettor overhaul kit available for the Rolls Royce . Apologies for my error saying AC instead of SU.
Thank you for your response to my comment. Apologies for saying wrongly that they were AC carburettors instead of SU carburettors. I phoned SU directly and spoke with a very helpful and knowledgeable person who was able to explain in detail what I needed for the carburettors on my Silver Shadow. They also have an overhaul kit for the fuel pump. I am working my way through the same issues that you are dealing with on your car . I’m really looking forward to seeing your successes in overcoming the challenges that your car is having as it’s helping and encouraging me with my car. You are doing a wonderful job in saving and enjoying the path to get your beautiful car back to a usable and reliable vehicle. All the best for now. 👍🤓
well done mate - i have been down this road and its PAINFULL - try repace the needles and the jets they could have junk in them - i did an entire carb rebuild to get my old GOAT working - you are on the right track keep it up - also check the the ground on the fule pump is solid as that causes a few issues as well - i found that cleaning the negative wire and making sure its well grounded to the body helped when i was doing mine keep at it mate
I’d call that progress, at least you’ve ruled out a number of issues so you are by default getting closer! I admire your determination and wish you good luck👍
SU carbs are easy to service and rebuild. But having owned a few cars with them including a Jag check the oil levels in the dampers. Remove the black caps on the can. There should be an oil level indicator on the cap. It makes all the difference with “bogging down”.
Great series of videos. These are beautiful cars and worth the work. She seems like a good one too. A bit rough round the edges but solid. You have a great attitude to it too. Don’t give up!!!
Your carbs are very dirty and need to be rebuilt. After you do that, the carbs need to be properly adjusted. Then your RR will run much better! Get a book on SU carbs and study that first. U can do it!😊👍
The black caps on the top of the SU carbs need to be unscrewed to check if there is oil in them, the carbs need the oil to operate the damping system. The S.U fuel pumps have contact breakers inside the black cap ( the caps on your car have the caps sealed with electrical tape,) the second pump is usually a backup pump there will be a switch somewhere to turn it on. good luck they are fabulous cars when running correctly.
Nice! Can you please show me the paint codes from the plate on your hood (bonnet if you're in the UK)? I have a theory that either my hood was replaced or my car was repainted a different color because the "brown" that comes up by the code looks quite different.
The designers obviously never worked on one of these. It should be a prerequisite. And if you are not picky about originality, I used a set of plug wires from a 1970 Lincoln 460. They fit fine and my car runs on all 8 cylinders. Great how you are able to do the work with one hand while filming.
I did check them after this video was filmed and lo and behold... they were empty. Filling them made a small difference but didn't fix the main problem. Next video coming up! Thanks for the tip though :)
The most accurate way to set your points is to use a dwell meter that measures how long the points stay open. It's what we used in the old days when cars only had points so a guess dwell meters are museum pieces now.
If you get a timing light with an inductive pick up it is good for testing coils and which plugs are firing as well as setting the ignition timing. There probably was nothing wrong with that coil. I hope you are using the correct new coil. That car has ballast resistor in the ignition circuit so that the coil normally receives about 6V but gets 12V while cranking. To get the car running correctly, it is important to ensure any vacuum hoses are in good condition.
In some cars, the vacuum hose might go to the distributor, if it doesn't work, you'll notice it when you try to press the gas pedal. Timing adjustment will not work if the vacuum hose is leaking or disconnected. It is worth checking the timing adjustment.
There’s a UA-camr called My Mate Vince in the UK, he’s restoring a Rolls Royce Spirit, he’s been working on this for about a year and claims it’s the cheapest RR in the UK I think he paid about 4k. It might be worth you looking at for some pointers, I hope this may be useful for you,I love to see these old cars resurrected. Keep up the good work
That "piece" is the ballast resistor that keeps the points from burning, the engine starts on full battery voltage then switches to the resistor for around 9 volts or so, this is how most all points ignitions were setup to prevent the points from pulling pulling full battery voltage during run conditions. Im 64 and worked on many many MANY point ignition systems. Looks like your ballast resistor was changed when it went bad as they eventually do preventing the car from starting
Between the banjo bolt and the top plate of the float bowl, you're missing the fiber serrated washer on both float bowls. SU Part Number AUC 1928. The washer is missing between the banjo bolt and the top plate. SU Part Number AUC 1557. Your accelerator stumble could be from linkage. Check to be sure the rams, cams etc. on the carburetor linkage is free to move.
Thanks, I was wondering about those banjo bolts... as you can see in the video, I was removing them slowly, so as not to drop any washers but... there weren't any! I'll make sure I get them, thanks for the info! I'll check the linkages as well, although I've already checked the stuff that's visible from the outside and it seems fine.
Dude, doing most of that work one handed 😮 Sorry I have your timing light here in Seattle. You want me to bring it to you? 😂 Great job sorting through all this
Looking at the fuel filters, I would run Seafoam and or gumout through and let the engine run for two hours to internally clean the carburetors. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Could be carb choke issue itself . If thermostat not shutting off to signify the engine is warm then it won’t shut choke down , you have covered the other things .
I've been observing the choke levers and they seem to be doing the right thing, albeit a little too quickly maybe. My choke stove pipes have been replaced with rubber hoses by the previous owner, which is not great, but they seem to be working fine for now. But I'll keep investigating there.
Good work - I participated in a technical "Service your old Rolls Rolls yourself" course and the trainer praised a conversion kit to electronic ignition, did you look in to something like that (I do not know how costly the kit was)?
Su carbs have a very small amount of oil ? Or such type of fluid in them you unsrew the black plastic caps on top of carbs to check the fluid level . Are you carbs at correct fluid level or low level ? Maybe this will solve problem ? Just a thought, recently subscribed and i am enjoyingvyour journey. Ken from liverpool in england. Good luck my friend
The float chamber lids should have a ventilated washer between the lid and the first pipe. It really needs to have ventilated float lids otherwise it will never run properly.
Not too much to go wrong with SU carbs, as its pretty much just the needle taper that controls mixture throughout the rev range. Think I could see a flowlock/anti run-on valve in the fuel pipe? If so, try bypassing/testing that.
Check out Tyrells classic workshop..he started his Apprenticeship in a Rollls Royce. Dealership. Maybe where your car was sold. But he did a few videos on old rolls and Bentleys. He is a encyclopedia of info.. you could ask him some history questions..I don't know about repair questions. This is his business.. I would have vacuumed out dizzy. Apply some electrical cleaner.
@@ClassicAutoLtd yes, normally a six or nine volt ignition coil( I think ) The coil gets fed with full battery volts whilst cranking on the starter motor, then through the ballast resistor in normal running.
Thanks! I think the new one that was connected looks fine, doesn't it? I show the "new" one at time mark 24:11 in the video: ua-cam.com/video/LLa_hn7L_LM/v-deo.html
@@ClassicAutoLtd oks I didn’t see the new one they are called a condenser the one you put inside the diszzy yes I do see that one. The ballast resistor they very really play up I am referring to the white porslean item that was bolted to the outside of the new coil I think I mentioned watching harry garage series on UA-cam on his white rolls Royce he took to the article he did something with the carburettor were it was over fuelling keep at it you have done a awesome job so far
If you replace the points, you must set the timing. I respectfully suggest you get some ground-zero training on point type ignition carbureted engines. Though you may be adept with modern electronic ignition fuel injected cars, this is a completely different world, especially in terms of troubleshooting. And never forget that the cheapest RR is the most expensive car you will ever buy.
@@ClassicAutoLtd I've got a 1986 Bentley Turbo R with a 4 barrel carburettor.. I dare not mess with it because it runs fine although may be running a bit rich, throws a bit of soot out the back but goes very well.. I just wondered if your accelerator pedal was actually moving the carburettor lever enough or if there was slack in the cable..
Thanks for the suggestion! I actually did have the engine bay washed and I think the throttle linkages are fine - they seem to be moving normally. I haven't adjusted everything yet though. One of the prerequisites to carburettor tuning (according to the service manual) is to synchronize the throttles, so that's the correct direction.
Great stuff. . . you keep saying "Capacitor" . . . . it's a "Condenser" A vast improvement. Sounds ok. . I bet it sounds better when you are actually there. . . phone doesn't give the best sound. Carbs need cleaning and setting up. You can't do that with your special hammer. Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
Hahaha yup, good point :) Yeah, sorry, the workshop manual refers to it as a condenser and I guess that's the more correct term but apparently the two words are effectively synonyms. Maybe also a bit of a British vs. American English thing? Either way, I'm making progress and I even ventured into carb tuning after this video was filmed. Stay tuned for more (no pun intended) 😆
Fair enough, but just wanted to be extra cautious in case something else shorts out while I'm in there and causes electricity to flow. But yeah, I agree that the likelihood of that happening is practically zero.
@ClassicAutoLtd so it's right hand drive? The one I looked at about 8 years ago, in exactly the same colour scheme, was lhd, it was run by a hotel in Salzburg for 20 years. The drivers door had drooped, from the chauffeur leaning on it while waiting for years. As had the suspension, I passed on that car.
@ClassicAutoLtd you know about re valving the suspension spheres. There is a Citroën DS specialist in Poland who does a great job at an excellent price .
I was thinking of that, but those suckers are expensive! In the spirit of not buying unnecessary parts, I'm thinking of just testing the current one in a pot of water with a thermometer. I'll film everything I do, obviously, so you guys will see it. I'm very uneasy not having a temperature gauge on the dash... so I wanna do this ASAP.
A RR is made so well that it will go tens of thousands of miles beyond its maintenance schedule, and this is what happens to these older cars. But when they do stop moving, they have degraded so far that it will take tens of thousands of dollars to bring them back. It's just not practical unless you want a jerry-rigged beater of a RR. If you do it right, you'll spend far more than the car will ever be worth.
Not having a timing light, try rotating the position of the distributor by small degrees clockwise and anticlockwise while the engine is idling and then press the accelerator and see at what position of the distributor the engine gives the best response. By doing this the timing of the engine is being advanced or retarded. Cheers
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I've already ordered (and received after this was filmed) a timing light so I'll just do it with that, but it's good to know anyway for future reference.
FYI - You do NOT turn the distributor shaft to get the high point on the lobe, you must turn the ENGINE over until the high point of the lobe meets the rubbing block on the points. Im 64 and was a shop mechanic for years, the only slight exception is the pre- '73 General Motors distributors with AC Delco points you could just install and using a dwell meter start the engine and adjust the points with an allen wrench style tool until the meter read between 28 to 32 degrees dwell with 30 degrees being the optimum on most cars. Further, once you set points such as the ones being done here youre supposed to find the actual factory dwell reading in the manual and use the dwell meter to be sure the points are set within the acceptable range. Yours probably is, but this is the proper routine on setting points in most all cars that had them back in the day - THEN after points are first correctly set youre supposed to check and if necessary set the ignition timing as correct ignition timing afterward because correct engine timing depends directly on points being correctly set FIRST. Your engine lagged on startup most likely because your engine timing was to far advanced or retarded possibly due to points and ore timing being off - hardly anyone today knows how to do this routine properly because point ignition is a thing of the past even on lawn mowers. Many of todays shop techs dont even know how to repair or service point ignition or carburetors as they arent used any more. Engines will be close enough to run set up quick like this but the tune up will suffer possibly with things like high fuel consumption, stumble, or engine pinging as timing is too far advanced. Also be aware ignition wires can look fine, but have high resistance internally causing misfires, you need to read up on the factory manual on the procedures to get proper results, you cant just be "close" it needs to be right.
YOU ARE AMAZING, THAT ENGINE IS STRONG AND HEALTHY, DO NOT GIVE UP..
Thanks man! I'm looking forward to the moment when I can just take it out for a stroll, or maybe even a family trip!
21:07 power resistor for the ignition coil
I watch a lot of car maintenance videos and as a co-owner of a 1974 shadow in need of overhaul I’m really grateful to you for doing these. They are by far the best videos on maintenance I’ve seen. Awesome. Please keep going on the shadow and keep the videos coming. Thank you!
Another check which can be made is to start the car. Then on each carburettor push up the pin which is used to lift the piston in the dash pot. If the engine stalls it means that the fuel mixture is too lean/weak. This means there is not enough fuel going to the cylinders. The jet will have to be lowered by the screw on the lower end of the carburettor. If on the other hand when the piston is lifted the engine revs increase and stays that way, then the mixture is too rich and the jet needs to come up. A good idea is also to remove the spark plugs and see what condition they are in, whether fouled or defective.
Cheers
Thanks, I'll see if I can try that. Btw I replaced the spark plugs in the previous episode. A few of the old ones were oily, indicating no ignition, but I hope that was fixed when I redid the ignition system. Might be useful to take the new ones out again and check them though.
Thanks for the excellent view of the distributor while you are working on it.
The other creators usually give you a dark out of focus far away view.
Now I can see exactly what is happening.
You’ve done a great job with your Shadow. I’m trying to bring a 1972 Shadow back to life myself. Between your videos and the comments, I’ve picked up several helpful tips. My vote is carburetor adjustment. Make sure they are cleaned and up topped up with oil. Adjust the mixture for each with the bottom nut and then balance them. Check the timing and you’ll be off and running. I’ll watch for your next video!
I really like your method to take one step at a time and then see if it solved the problem or not. Keep it up, I like your videos!
Thanks for the response! So happy you are rebuilding the carbs. U usually don’t need to replace the main jet needles.
One on each side. Just make sure they don’t get bent! Clean everything up real good! Good luck with it!👍😊✌️
Also, make sure that the jets and needles are the same both sides .
The problem why the engine is not running properly is because the points gap should be 15 thousands and not 35 thousands that you set it. That 35 thousands gap is for the spark plug which is to be set between 35 and 40 thousands.
I believe that your problem will be solved and the engine will run as it should.
Cheers
Thanks for the comment. My gauges are in millimeters, not inches, so I think I'm fine. As per the service manual: "set the gaps to between 0,356 mm. and 0,406 mm. (0.014 in. and 0.016 in.)." So I believe I have it set correctly (although I haven't measured the dwell angle - I don't have a dwell angle meter). The spark plug gaps up to serial number 22072 (mine is below that) should be 0.025 INCHES and I have that set correctly as well (see the previous episode where I replace the spark plugs). But yeah, hopefully the engine will soon be purring like a kitten :)
Thank you. I appreciate that. Please keep the videos coming on your progress with the Rolls Royce.
Thanks! More videos coming up, of course :)
The hexagonal headed screw on the outside of the distributor is to set the dwell angle correctly while the engine is running. A much more accurate way to set the points gap. Probably best to take off the carb dash pots and clean them to within an inch of their lives. While they are off, open the throttle and check the butterflies are still tight as they can work loose making a smooth idle impossible.
Thanks, will do. I don't have a dwell angle meter but now I know how the dwell angle is related to the points gap (it's really different measurements of the same thing) and I'll see if I can measure it with a digital multimeter. About cleaning and checking things in the carbs - I did that partially, new video coming up!
I shall be treading the same path as you are on now with my silver shadow. Going through the fuel system and the ignition system. It’s good to watch you as you progress through the various phases of getting the engine running as it should.
Keep up the good work and I am looking forward to the next video if you decide to overhaul the carburettors.
I contacted AC carburettors here in England as I need to overhaul the carburettors on my 73 Shadow and they were very helpful. They supply a full rebuild kit specifically for those Rolls Royce carburettors.
I meant SU carburettors not ac . Sorry I didn’t mean to confuse the issue. SU . Have a very comprehensive carburettor overhaul kit available for the Rolls Royce . Apologies for my error saying AC instead of SU.
@@stuartlee80 Thanks very much, I think I've seen that kit. I'll look into it after I attempt a tune.
Thank you for your response to my comment. Apologies for saying wrongly that they were AC carburettors instead of SU carburettors. I phoned SU directly and spoke with a very helpful and knowledgeable person who was able to explain in detail what I needed for the carburettors on my Silver Shadow. They also have an overhaul kit for the fuel pump.
I am working my way through the same issues that you are dealing with on your car . I’m really looking forward to seeing your successes in overcoming the challenges that your car is having as it’s helping and encouraging me with my car.
You are doing a wonderful job in saving and enjoying the path to get your beautiful car back to a usable and reliable vehicle.
All the best for now. 👍🤓
@@stuartlee80 Thanks! Best of luck to you as well!
This is going to be a great series. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! I'm enjoying the process as well :)
well done mate - i have been down this road and its PAINFULL - try repace the needles and the jets they could have junk in them - i did an entire carb rebuild to get my old GOAT working - you are on the right track keep it up - also check the the ground on the fule pump is solid as that causes a few issues as well - i found that cleaning the negative wire and making sure its well grounded to the body helped when i was doing mine keep at it mate
Nice video, can't wait to see more of this!
Thanks! More coming up, I'll be filming everything I do :)
Great to watch these service items. Look forward to more content as you bring the Royce back to life.
Thanks and enjoy :)
The little part you removed is a ballast resistor. Usually part of the ignition system.
Thank you!
I’d call that progress, at least you’ve ruled out a number of issues so you are by default getting closer! I admire your determination and wish you good luck👍
Yup, slow progress, but still progress :) Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more, I'm already in the process of editing the next video.
SU carbs are easy to service and rebuild. But having owned a few cars with them including a Jag check the oil levels in the dampers. Remove the black caps on the can. There should be an oil level indicator on the cap. It makes all the difference with “bogging down”.
good work
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Always pump the gas 2 times before you start the car - don’t just turn the key. All the best
Yup, I figured that out at some point :)
When is your next video ?
Great series of videos. These are beautiful cars and worth the work. She seems like a good one too. A bit rough round the edges but solid.
You have a great attitude to it too. Don’t give up!!!
Thanks! I think it's a decent base to start from and can become a good driver with a little bit of TLC (and a reasonable amount of cash invested).
Your carbs are very dirty and need to be rebuilt. After you do that, the carbs need to be properly adjusted. Then your RR will run much better! Get a book on SU carbs and study that first. U can do it!😊👍
Thanks! Will do :) (here's a little sneak preview: I already started working on the carbs after this video was filmed). Stay tuned :))
The black caps on the top of the SU carbs need to be unscrewed to check if there is oil in them, the carbs need the oil to operate the damping system. The S.U fuel pumps have contact breakers inside the black cap ( the caps on your car have the caps sealed with electrical tape,) the second pump is usually a backup pump there will be a switch somewhere to turn it on.
good luck they are fabulous cars when running correctly.
I've got exactly the same color combo on my 71 shadow !
Nice! Can you please show me the paint codes from the plate on your hood (bonnet if you're in the UK)? I have a theory that either my hood was replaced or my car was repainted a different color because the "brown" that comes up by the code looks quite different.
The designers obviously never worked on one of these. It should be a prerequisite. And if you are not picky about originality, I used a set of plug wires from a 1970 Lincoln 460. They fit fine and my car runs on all 8 cylinders. Great how you are able to do the work with one hand while filming.
Nice, I'll keep that in mind!
Have you checked the dash pots on top of the carbs for oil?
I did check them after this video was filmed and lo and behold... they were empty. Filling them made a small difference but didn't fix the main problem. Next video coming up! Thanks for the tip though :)
The most accurate way to set your points is to use a dwell meter that measures how long the points stay open. It's what we used in the old days when cars only had points so a guess dwell meters are museum pieces now.
thank you for the videos, I´ve just subscribed and enjoy a lot your experience... congratulations
If you get a timing light with an inductive pick up it is good for testing coils and which plugs are firing as well as setting the ignition timing. There probably was nothing wrong with that coil. I hope you are using the correct new coil. That car has ballast resistor in the ignition circuit so that the coil normally receives about 6V but gets 12V while cranking.
To get the car running correctly, it is important to ensure any vacuum hoses are in good condition.
The points gap you set is correct at 0.35 mm. which is equivalent to 14 thousands of an inch.
In some cars, the vacuum hose might go to the distributor, if it doesn't work, you'll notice it when you try to press the gas pedal. Timing adjustment will not work if the vacuum hose is leaking or disconnected. It is worth checking the timing adjustment.
I'll check that, thanks!
There’s a UA-camr called My Mate Vince in the UK, he’s restoring a Rolls Royce Spirit, he’s been working on this for about a year and claims it’s the cheapest RR in the UK I think he paid about 4k.
It might be worth you looking at for some pointers, I hope this may be useful for you,I love to see these old cars resurrected.
Keep up the good work
Yup, I've seen a few of his episodes, good stuff there too! Very similar situation. And thanks for watching!
I love the rolls Royce!!!¡
Thanks! Hopefully it'll be back to its former glory soon :)
That "piece" is the ballast resistor that keeps the points from burning, the engine starts on full battery voltage then switches to the resistor for around 9 volts or so, this is how most all points ignitions were setup to prevent the points from pulling pulling full battery voltage during run conditions. Im 64 and worked on many many MANY point ignition systems. Looks like your ballast resistor was changed when it went bad as they eventually do preventing the car from starting
Between the banjo bolt and the top plate of the float bowl, you're missing the fiber serrated washer on both float bowls. SU Part Number AUC 1928. The washer is missing between the banjo bolt and the top plate. SU Part Number AUC 1557. Your accelerator stumble could be from linkage. Check to be sure the rams, cams etc. on the carburetor linkage is free to move.
Thanks, I was wondering about those banjo bolts... as you can see in the video, I was removing them slowly, so as not to drop any washers but... there weren't any! I'll make sure I get them, thanks for the info! I'll check the linkages as well, although I've already checked the stuff that's visible from the outside and it seems fine.
You need to advance ignition timing and adjust air mixture o n carburetor after that you be okay
Dude, doing most of that work one handed 😮 Sorry I have your timing light here in Seattle. You want me to bring it to you? 😂 Great job sorting through all this
Haha thanks Steve! Yeah, I actually ordered a tripod and I also have some camera "glasses" that I plan to employ :) Should make things a lot easier.
Looking at the fuel filters, I would run Seafoam and or gumout through and let the engine run for two hours to internally clean the carburetors.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That sounds like a good idea, I'll look into that!
Could be carb choke issue itself . If thermostat not shutting off to signify the engine is warm then it won’t shut choke down , you have covered the other things .
I've been observing the choke levers and they seem to be doing the right thing, albeit a little too quickly maybe. My choke stove pipes have been replaced with rubber hoses by the previous owner, which is not great, but they seem to be working fine for now. But I'll keep investigating there.
Good work - I participated in a technical "Service your old Rolls Rolls yourself" course and the trainer praised a conversion kit to electronic ignition, did you look in to something like that (I do not know how costly the kit was)?
Su carbs have a very small amount of oil ? Or such type of fluid in them you unsrew the black plastic caps on top of carbs to check the fluid level .
Are you carbs at correct fluid level or low level ?
Maybe this will solve problem ? Just a thought, recently subscribed and i am enjoyingvyour journey.
Ken from liverpool in england.
Good luck my friend
Sorry alos try check in inlet butterfly plate it may be sticky - maybe worth a shot
The float chamber lids should have a ventilated washer between the lid and the first pipe. It really needs to have ventilated float lids otherwise it will never run properly.
Interesting, I'll look into that! I was very surprised that there was no washer in there when I took it apart.
I think it sounds like the accelerator pump in the carbs is blocked or inop
Not too much to go wrong with SU carbs, as its pretty much just the needle taper that controls mixture throughout the rev range. Think I could see a flowlock/anti run-on valve in the fuel pipe? If so, try bypassing/testing that.
Interesting, I'll look into that! I remember seeing something about that in the service manual.
Check out Tyrells classic workshop..he started his Apprenticeship in a Rollls Royce. Dealership. Maybe where your car was sold. But he did a few videos on old rolls and Bentleys. He is a encyclopedia of info.. you could ask him some history questions..I don't know about repair questions. This is his business.. I would have vacuumed out dizzy. Apply some electrical cleaner.
I suspect the engine stopped because as the engine warms up the chokes stop then the fuel air mixture is wrong, carburettor problem
The part you can’t identify is a ballast resistance coil.
Thanks, appreciate it! I'll look that up. But it seems like that "new" one is working fine on my car.
@@ClassicAutoLtd yes, normally a six or nine volt ignition coil( I think ) The coil gets fed with full battery volts whilst cranking on the starter motor, then through the ballast resistor in normal running.
In an electrical system, a ballast resistor serves to control current and voltage yes your right it is had its day replace it
Thanks! I think the new one that was connected looks fine, doesn't it? I show the "new" one at time mark 24:11 in the video: ua-cam.com/video/LLa_hn7L_LM/v-deo.html
@@ClassicAutoLtd oks I didn’t see the new one they are called a condenser the one you put inside the diszzy yes I do see that one. The ballast resistor they very really play up I am referring to the white porslean item that was bolted to the outside of the new coil I think I mentioned watching harry garage series on UA-cam on his white rolls Royce he took to the article he did something with the carburettor were it was over fuelling keep at it you have done a awesome job so far
If you replace the points, you must set the timing. I respectfully suggest you get some ground-zero training on point type ignition carbureted engines. Though you may be adept with modern electronic ignition fuel injected cars, this is a completely different world, especially in terms of troubleshooting. And never forget that the cheapest RR is the most expensive car you will ever buy.
Fair enough, I'm doing that! :)
make sure the distributor is advancing properly
Have you made sure that the accelerator cable is adjusted properly
Are you referring to throttle synchronization? If so, I did it after this video was done. You'll see it in the next video, so stay tuned :)
@@ClassicAutoLtd I've got a 1986 Bentley Turbo R with a 4 barrel carburettor.. I dare not mess with it because it runs fine although may be running a bit rich, throws a bit of soot out the back but goes very well.. I just wondered if your accelerator pedal was actually moving the carburettor lever enough or if there was slack in the cable..
Maybe a good clean and flush in the engine bay will loosen up any sticky operation accelerator points joins in rods etc for you
Thanks for the suggestion! I actually did have the engine bay washed and I think the throttle linkages are fine - they seem to be moving normally. I haven't adjusted everything yet though. One of the prerequisites to carburettor tuning (according to the service manual) is to synchronize the throttles, so that's the correct direction.
The carbs need rebuilt. Timing is also important.
Thanks, I guess we'll find out when I start tackling that! (coming up)
The choke is not opening up all the way
Great stuff. . . you keep saying "Capacitor" . . . . it's a "Condenser"
A vast improvement. Sounds ok. . I bet it sounds better when you are actually there. . . phone doesn't give the best sound.
Carbs need cleaning and setting up. You can't do that with your special hammer. Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha
Hahaha yup, good point :) Yeah, sorry, the workshop manual refers to it as a condenser and I guess that's the more correct term but apparently the two words are effectively synonyms. Maybe also a bit of a British vs. American English thing? Either way, I'm making progress and I even ventured into carb tuning after this video was filmed. Stay tuned for more (no pun intended) 😆
There's a guy called Tyrrels garage on youtube
. He an old RR mechanic. He might be able to help if you get stuck.
Thanks, I'll look him up!
battery does not need to be disconnected to change a distributor cap !
Fair enough, but just wanted to be extra cautious in case something else shorts out while I'm in there and causes electricity to flow. But yeah, I agree that the likelihood of that happening is practically zero.
Mass air flow sensor ?
I guessing your joking.no such thing as a mass air flow sensor when these cars we're made.🙈
Yeah no MAF in this car, it's all mechanical :) (unless you're joking, in which case - good one!)
Remowe distributor to get to the coil
I might know that car, was it once registered in Austria?
I don't think so, but I can't be sure. It was brought into Bulgaria from the UK.
@ClassicAutoLtd so it's right hand drive? The one I looked at about 8 years ago, in exactly the same colour scheme, was lhd, it was run by a hotel in Salzburg for 20 years.
The drivers door had drooped, from the chauffeur leaning on it while waiting for years. As had the suspension, I passed on that car.
@@marcusott2973 Yeah, it's RHD. Different car then.
@ClassicAutoLtd you know about re valving the suspension spheres. There is a Citroën DS specialist in Poland who does a great job at an excellent price .
@@marcusott2973 I'll keep that in mind, thanks!
Try a new thermostat too.
I was thinking of that, but those suckers are expensive! In the spirit of not buying unnecessary parts, I'm thinking of just testing the current one in a pot of water with a thermometer. I'll film everything I do, obviously, so you guys will see it. I'm very uneasy not having a temperature gauge on the dash... so I wanna do this ASAP.
A RR is made so well that it will go tens of thousands of miles beyond its maintenance schedule, and this is what happens to these older cars. But when they do stop moving, they have degraded so far that it will take tens of thousands of dollars to bring them back. It's just not practical unless you want a jerry-rigged beater of a RR. If you do it right, you'll spend far more than the car will ever be worth.
Not having a timing light, try rotating the position of the distributor by small degrees clockwise and anticlockwise while the engine is idling and then press the accelerator and see at what position of the distributor the engine gives the best response. By doing this the timing of the engine is being advanced or retarded.
Cheers
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I've already ordered (and received after this was filmed) a timing light so I'll just do it with that, but it's good to know anyway for future reference.
i wouldn't want an expesive rolls royce
Power steering fluid low level
message tyrells classic workshop for some advice the guy has worked on rolls royce since he was sixteen he will help you mate hes a nice guy