How to Install 1st Gen Sequoia/ Tundra Headers: I Fixed 5 Exhaust Leaks
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- Опубліковано 29 гру 2024
- This is my 2001 Toyota Sequoia and after having a bad exhaust leak for a while I decided to put on some headers to fix the issue. This is kind of a step by step so I hope it helps. #JBAHEADERS #EXHAUSTLEAK #exhaustaddicts #exhaustsound #DIY
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Nice job. Fortunately I was able to patch my headers with breathe-rite strips and wound tape. 15,000 miles and going strong. Gotta use that new old stock asbestos wound tape though.
Doing this to my 2001 Sequoia Front left header replacement. Let's just say it's a pain in the butt but it will get done.
looking forward to doing the JBA long tubes on my 05 tundra.. knocking out motor mounts at the same time. engine support should hopefully make this a somewhat not pain in the ass job.
No such thing as lt jbas for tundra 05
@@PrincessAddie14 they discontinued them. I do have them on my truck though
That gasket makes me nervous. All around good video. 👍
Great video thanks! Wondering if you could provide the exact JBA header model you got as Im buying my kit this week, and I see several models and feel kinda lost. Thanks in advance
578-2010S Shorty Headers 2000-2004 Toyota Tundra and Sequoia 4.7L
This is off my email.
Original manifold had a heat sheid. Did you install this,or another one, with the headers?
Thanks for the video. So did you use mostly impact wrench to loosen the manifold bolts? Wouldn’t it break the bolts if it’s stuck? Did you apply heat? Thanks
I used it where I could but my impact isn’t strong enough to break a bolt. Since the heads are aluminum, the bolts shouldn’t get stuck that bad.
I just started my project tonight.....so far things are going well. I have one bolt that rounded that I'll need to deal with using a bold extractor, etc. Last upper bolt on the drivers side. What did you use to remove the 3 stock screws that connected the stock manifold to the Cat's? The bolts came off with a little help from PB blaster and some heat and cold. All but one of my studs on the drivers side stayed in the block. I got the heat shield off on the passenger side and the 3 nuts off the cat connection and decided to call it a night. Been working on this for about 4 hours just taking my time. I've got all day tomorrow to keep working on this.
Those 3 bolts, I put an end wrench on the top and about 2’ of 1/2” extension’s to reach up from the bottom. It sounds like you’re making some great progress.
Finished the install today. You had some great advice. I used a cutting tool to hack through the factory manifold which made access to the inner bolts above the engine much easier. Did the driver side first....learned a lot doing that side and then moved to the passenger side - which was definitely the easier side to do. This was NOT an easy job! two bolts on the passenger side wouldn't budge. I used heat and then heat again. Had to use my rounded off socket removal tool from Lowes and I finally broke the two bolt/studs came out. Went for a long test drive tonight and while I was returning home got a check engine light P0141. Weird. Supposedly this is the O2 sensor on the downstream side of bank one below the cat/passenger side - never even touched that area. Tomorrow I'll take a look and see if somehow I've gotten a short or maybe just bad luck and the o2 sensor died on that side. I'm at 199,500 on my 2001 - I bought new in June of 2001. I didn't replace any of the other o2 sensors....can still do that if I need to I guess. I also replaced both lower ball joints and both sway bar links. My drivers side lower ball joint was bad and I didn't know it! Lucky to catch that before something catastrophic!
My wife was asking if I would like a bed to sleep in the garage since I was spending so much time there.....but it was great being able to do the job myself. My hands are a little scarred up! Some very tight spaces. Your suggestion of using the 14 mm ratcheting wrench was excellent. Needed a 17mm for the hardware/bolts on the JBA headers.
Did you retorque after a few days? Did any of the bolts loosen up on you after a few days?
Nice to be done....just need to figure out the P0141 error. Never had this error before on the Sequoia.
@@scottmcdonald7577 that’s awesome you got it done and you did the lower ball joints before something happened unlike me. I went to torque everything a few days later and everything was still tight for me. I would double check though. The driver side is definitely a bear to work through. I hope you’re able to get the O2 sensor figured out. Mine keeps coming on because I have over 280k and many of those miles were with exhaust leaks so the truck was running richer and so I’m getting the code for cat below threshold. This is exciting to hear other people’s stories. Thank you for sharing. 😁👍
This is my next big project for my sequoia. I have a cracked manifold somewhere and it’s driving me nuts.
It’s worth it. I hope this video was able to give you some insight and helpful tips.
@@ProZacksProjects if definitely did. I thought the job would take longer but simplified it pretty well. How does it sound inside?
@@ViewlessSquid it’s actually quieter without all of the exhaust leaks.
Same thing on my ‘01 but when it warms up it quiet down a lot
You don’t have to drill out any rusted bolts ?
In the head I was able to use my wrench to break the studs loose that were left behind. I don’t recall having to drill out any bolts. If you do, it would be where the exhaust manifolds connect to the rest of the exhaust.
Im getting ready to do this to my tundra, do you have to cut the old header off to access the nuts to remove the header? Am I able to do it with out cutting? Thanks for the vid!
On the passenger side I didn’t cut it I just used the ratcheting 14 mm end wrench which has a straight end on the back and I was able to get it without cutting. I highly recommend getting one if you don’t have one, and thanks for the comment. 🙂👍
It's a tough job but doable! I spent about 10 hours doing both sides and my lower ball joints as well. Took my time. Amazed at how stuck some of those original exhaust manifold bolts were. Very satisfied with the results. My '01 feels much peppier from a dead stop now and what a different new ball joints make! I wish you the best of luck! take your time and be prepared for some stubborn bolts! 14 mm ratcheting wrench is your buddy! You'll need a 17mm for the JBA bolts. I used a $20 stud remover from O'Reilly's that made pulling the studs that didn't come out with the original exhaust locking nuts very easy. Figured out my P0141 error code. I had a Homer Simpson moment. I had disconnected the downstream 02 sensor on the drivers side. DOH! Once I reconnected....no error codes. Sequoia runs and sounds great!
I cannot get the nut off the stuf that is on the bottom and behind the motor mount on the passenger side. Broke my ratcheting wrench! I think I’m going to do what you did and cut the manifold to get better access so I can get my breaker bar in there
Oh that’s terrible! Can you get a regular 14mm end wrench in there to hammer on? That’s a shame you’re down a wrench too.
@@ProZacksProjects I tried, it just such a bad angle, and that bolt is on there tight! It’s going to sit over night soaking in wd-40 and I will try again tomorrow. As for the wrench it was form harbor freight and lasted me quite a while so I can’t complain
@@mattadams0690 gotcha. Well I got off easy because my passenger side has been replaced so everything came off much easier. I hope it goes well for you!
Did you have to add a tune? Any check engine lights?
No tune and no check engine light. It does run so much better now. The check engine light does come on occasionally because the cats are below threshold efficiency or something but it happens less now. That’s my next project.
Are you getting a check engine light after installing these?
I am only because of the cats. It’s the same code that I’ve been getting for cat below threshold but that’s it.
Did you use the gaskets that came with it or oem?
I used the ones that came with it.
Curious if you had any issue installing the new mounting bolts after you got the headers lined up? Any tricks to be aware of?
The holes were slightly out of alignment but after taking a drill bit to them, the bolt up was super easy.
Just found your video and Lovie it! You're about a month out with the headers. Do you notice more heat in the engine bay? Concern for any wiring with heat from the headers or were yours ceramic coated?
Excellent questions. I don’t notice more heat although I’m missing some of the inner fender covers on the front side, so there’s a little more airflow than normal. They’re the uncoated SS JBA’s. I did however pick up 2 mpg. I went from 13.5 to 15.5 on the highway with mud tires on.
Any check engine light issues with the O2 sensors getting too much flow? Did your JBA SS headers come with new head bolts or did you have to get stock bolts from Toyota?
@@scottmcdonald7577 I was getting a cat below threshold on bank one before and it still comes on but less frequent. There’s all new hardware with them, head bolts and flange bolts. Hopefully yours will come with the correct nuts for the flange bolts if you get it. Also, this may appeal to some people, the JBA’s come with a carb certified sticker.
You've been awesome to answer all of my questions. Did you order the JBA's through JBA or a reseller? I've been wanting to do this for so long.....watching your video has given me the courage to finally try this. I assumed you removed the dip stick and the ratchetting wrench is what allowed you to remove the bolts that are blocked by the engine mounts? Did you consider using heat on any of the stuck bolts?
@@scottmcdonald7577 thank you, I try to make these videos to help out. I bought mine through jegs and had I used the ratcheting wrench, the bolts would’ve come right out. The biggest problem is getting on the bolts straight which is what the wrench is able to do. My AJ Claw crescent wrench was perfect for getting the studs out too.
Obviously it's a stock exhaust here so it's different for mine, but if I change the stock headers to these shorty jba headers, do you think it will be louder, or just sound different? I have the stock headers oem cats, then straight pipe. I want it louder lol wanna see if these will do it
They gave it a bit of a deeper note with all the factory setup. I think you would notice the difference in sound and performance.
@@ProZacksProjects damn that was a fast reply lol I'm assuming torque was noticeable low end? How about mid to high end? It's nice to hear it from someone who experienced it themselves not a just a product description
@@redrolla I noticed it all the way through, but especially at the bottom.
@@ProZacksProjects thanks for the reply
@@redrolla no problem. My goal is to help people, and I hope this is helpful to you.
I'm pretty sure it doesn't but did you experience any drone or the sound level of the exhaust get louder? I am planning on getting these but keep the stock exhaust
No droning and it’s actually quieter just because there’s no exhaust leaks now. I kept the stock exhaust and there’s a little more of a grunt to it but you can barely notice.
@@ProZacksProjects good to know, thanks!
@@ProZacksProjects Also I don't know if you've done this, but I saw another video of a tundra with these headers and he said he put HPS short ram intake with a throttle spacer and it made the tundra have even more power with the headers.
@@keontaheri3944 I appreciate the info. I did a k&n air filter at the same time but I don’t know what difference each one made.
Did you have issues with oil dip stick tube? I just i stalled mine and the tube is literally touching the exhaust. And I can't bolt it back in place. 😵💫😊
Did anyone have to raise up the engine to replace these? or can it be done with just going from below? thanks
I didn’t have to raise the engine. There should be enough room to maneuver the old ones out and get the new ones in. If I recall correctly, there was plenty of space.
@@ProZacksProjects thank you
Your engine can breathe better now.My 02 tundra has 257k and i want to get these put on too.
It’s amazing how much smoother the engine revs now. It’s well worth it.
Was it a direct bolt up to the rest of your exhaust? No modifications needed?
Mostly. The stock exhaust has this part that very slightly slid into the stock manifold. That will gap things slightly but you can grind or file that off so it fits flat and the gasket seals up.
How many hours did this job take you?
Far more than it should’ve. I did the drivers side first and it took a couple of partial days trying to remove the old manifold and then finally cutting it out. The passenger side had been replaced but it took me about 30 min to get the manifold removed and I had to open up a few of the holes to make the headers fit on the heads. So a few hours on a good clean removal. My biggest recommendation is to use a 14mm ratcheting end wrench to get the bolts out. I tried to describe it in the video but that’s what expedited the passenger side. I hope this helps and thank you for watching.
Did you notice any performance gains?
Yes. It’s has quite a bit more power off the line and through the whole power range.
Do the tundra headers fit on the sequoia?
Yes they do. They’re actually the same vehicle up front.
I literally just sent an email to the company about the nuts they send with kit being course thread. So they are still sending these expensive headers with hardware that doesn’t fit.
Any one know if non vvti header bolts on to vvti?
The vvti is on the intake side so the exhaust side should be the same but I cannot say for sure.
@@ProZacksProjects i know that but i wonder if its the same headers.im not spending 800 on headers for jba i seen some knock off brand for 150-200 but 200 tru 2004 only
@@reifonseca5767 I completely understand that. The only reason I went with JBA is because they’re CARB certified and I’ve had bad experiences with much less expensive products. I just wanted to be one and done. If you got those knock off ones, let me know how they turn out. I want to know how the fitment is and everything. Thanks 😊
I would pay you to install mine. I’m dreading doing this on my sequoia lol
It's not as bad as it seems, it's worse. Jk. With a 14mm ratcheting end wrench it makes it so much better. YOU CAN DO IT!
ProZack is right on! It's a tough job but it felt so good when I finished the job myself! Just be prepared for some difficult bolts. I used heat and cold to loosen two bugger bolts on the passenger side. Toughest job I've had to do on my Sequoia by far.......but oh it felt good to know I could do this myself! ProZack's video was a great help!
@@scottmcdonald7577 that’s awesome you got it done! It’s amazing the difference some free flowing exhaust makes and some new ball joints. Keep it up!