This was so thoroughly done and signifcantly important. Very well filmed, described, appreciate the slow mo so we could see the timing marks. Everyone always thinks they know how to do this but your description was great because it had the basics, the mid level wrench and the advanced tuner in mind. Excellent!! Phil you the man
Converted similar to yours earlier . . front end , I adapted on lathe & mill a Rollies AI Cycles engineering kit wide front end to , well . . skinny original allow front rim . . to same as rear nine spoke . . FXS 80/82 were twin disc front brakes so had to extra disc Gumtree to suit the new back/front wheel . . all worked out brilliant (next time that on models linear done that 'style' was on Roadkings Evo) . . people still clap & cheer & come at me at carparks
Back in the '90s I put a Rev-Tech dual fire ignition in an EVO. This is dual points to make single-fire ignition with a points-type system. Basically, do what you did on this video, do it again for the rear cylinder. It ran great, but replacement points/condensers became unobtanium, so I was forced back to electronic single-fire systems.
It's a trip all round these shovels going down drag strip old time Oz Bike magazine , but yeah previous comment about reprogram of the shovel edition Dyna 2000i electronic . . was main about , at time was only ignition system on sale to use the twin plug heads had on the 82 FXS (only not original thing on when bought it Darwin Dyna cycle closing down sale) . . yes I can research now without bother you current systems ignition . . but is pander to twin plug heads any real good (sure backup spark) . . anyway , I just plumbed my 'wet sump ' crank breather back into oil tank . . good info into how to recon the oil pump knew the issue , but waiting on the boffin . . the kick starting issue with Dyna 2000i occurred when I knew the car battery dead but pushed luck & it died Toms Gully NT (apparent when stock issued that ignition needs three whole revolutions to fire to clear backfire) . . but as usual roadworks between & saw the stop sign & just coasted off into bush not wanting to make laughing stock of self kicking at the light & hitched into Adelaide River , bought a small car battery from Glen the fine fellow small servo . . hitched back to bike & bobs your uncle
Love the videos Phil, quick question, after the static timing I didn’t see any changes made so what is the difference between static and dynamic ? Does the dynamic just mean the act of inspecting the timing and making sure it’s right and making changes if need be? I’m seriously asking sorry if I’m missing something obvious.
Mate I checked the timing while it was running and it was pretty well spot on. I just set static timing and then ride the bike. see how it goes. add some timing take it for a ride see if it likes it. If it does try a little more. if it doesn't try a little less. You can perfectly dynamic tune your bike but at the end of the day it might not be optimal to what the engine likes. Factory settings are always on the retard side to be nicer on the engine
Hey Phil! Hello from Missouri, USA Nice video. How critical is point gap to timing. I was told years ago that for every .001" the point gap is off, the timing changes by 3°. While I can visualise how that could be, I've always just set my points as close as possible before I static time it. That has always worked good enough for me. But I don't tune for max performance either. Just curious what your thoughts are. Cheers
TBH like i said in the video, I NEVER dynamic time anything. I just static time the bike and ride it, fiddling with the timing and seeing where it best run, rides and starts.
thanks for that video, dude! it’s really useful, but what to do if I have an ironhead? can I do exactly the same steps on it? because I need to take off the clutch cover 🤔 thank you! greetings from Russia!
Yes its a little more difficult with a sportster. You'll have to use the clear bung in the case. But yes, process is exactly the same just work out what timing marks your flywheels have.
Replacing the stator. Adjusting the pushrods. Adjusting S&S super e Rebuilding a 4 speed transmission Good video, watched a lowbrow one on timing a couple years ago and was left scratching my head
Your videos are a great resource for the aspiring mechanic wanting to learn - and the curious.. Onya.👍
Thanks heaps mate!
This was so thoroughly done and signifcantly important. Very well filmed, described, appreciate the slow mo so we could see the timing marks. Everyone always thinks they know how to do this but your description was great because it had the basics, the mid level wrench and the advanced tuner in mind. Excellent!! Phil you the man
Thank you mate! Comments like this make it worth while spending the extra time filming editing and posting. Thanks
Legend! … I’d like to see one on an oil pump diagnosis/replace
The next one I get through the doors ill be sure to document it!
Thanks for this one mate...I needed this video....
Glad it helped! Can seem super complicated but it’s really not
Converted similar to yours earlier . . front end , I adapted on lathe & mill a Rollies AI Cycles engineering kit wide front end to , well . . skinny original allow front rim . . to same as rear nine spoke . . FXS 80/82 were twin disc front brakes so had to extra disc Gumtree to suit the new back/front wheel . . all worked out brilliant (next time that on models linear done that 'style' was on Roadkings Evo) . . people still clap & cheer & come at me at carparks
Great video. Well explained. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Best video I’ve seen on timing! Hey m8, what is that small cover on the front pully on the primary? I need one
Thank you mate!
Back in the '90s I put a Rev-Tech dual fire ignition in an EVO. This is dual points to make single-fire ignition with a points-type system. Basically, do what you did on this video, do it again for the rear cylinder. It ran great, but replacement points/condensers became unobtanium, so I was forced back to electronic single-fire systems.
Yes Cb750's have from factory twin points sets that are individually adjustable.
It's a trip all round these shovels going down drag strip old time Oz Bike magazine , but yeah previous comment about reprogram of the shovel edition Dyna 2000i electronic . . was main about , at time was only ignition system on sale to use the twin plug heads had on the 82 FXS (only not original thing on when bought it Darwin Dyna cycle closing down sale) . . yes I can research now without bother you current systems ignition . . but is pander to twin plug heads any real good (sure backup spark) . . anyway , I just plumbed my 'wet sump ' crank breather back into oil tank . . good info into how to recon the oil pump knew the issue , but waiting on the boffin . . the kick starting issue with Dyna 2000i occurred when I knew the car battery dead but pushed luck & it died Toms Gully NT (apparent when stock issued that ignition needs three whole revolutions to fire to clear backfire) . . but as usual roadworks between & saw the stop sign & just coasted off into bush not wanting to make laughing stock of self kicking at the light & hitched into Adelaide River , bought a small car battery from Glen the fine fellow small servo . . hitched back to bike & bobs your uncle
Nice work my friend.
Cobar in Nebraska
Thank you for the support all the way over there!
Love the videos Phil, quick question, after the static timing I didn’t see any changes made so what is the difference between static and dynamic ? Does the dynamic just mean the act of inspecting the timing and making sure it’s right and making changes if need be? I’m seriously asking sorry if I’m missing something obvious.
Mate I checked the timing while it was running and it was pretty well spot on. I just set static timing and then ride the bike. see how it goes. add some timing take it for a ride see if it likes it. If it does try a little more. if it doesn't try a little less. You can perfectly dynamic tune your bike but at the end of the day it might not be optimal to what the engine likes. Factory settings are always on the retard side to be nicer on the engine
@ ok , thanks for the info . Love your videos man thanks for sharing!
Hey Phil!
Hello from Missouri, USA
Nice video. How critical is point gap to timing. I was told years ago that for every .001" the point gap is off, the timing changes by 3°. While I can visualise how that could be, I've always just set my points as close as possible before I static time it. That has always worked good enough for me. But I don't tune for max performance either.
Just curious what your thoughts are.
Cheers
Hey mate, I’ve always set my points to 18tho before setting the timing. (Close enough is good enough on these old things haha)
I understood the process, but what can you do if you realize that your dynamic timing is off? Just service the weights? (might be dry?)
TBH like i said in the video, I NEVER dynamic time anything. I just static time the bike and ride it, fiddling with the timing and seeing where it best run, rides and starts.
thanks for that video, dude! it’s really useful, but what to do if I have an ironhead? can I do exactly the same steps on it? because I need to take off the clutch cover 🤔 thank you! greetings from Russia!
Yes its a little more difficult with a sportster. You'll have to use the clear bung in the case. But yes, process is exactly the same just work out what timing marks your flywheels have.
What is that red lite going off and on by the oil pump
Oil Pressure light mate. Flashes when there's no pressure.
@PhilsWorks hey that's a good idea....
So how much advance did you put in it or did you leave it alone
Man I just fiddled with it till it liked the imput
Replacing the stator.
Adjusting the pushrods.
Adjusting S&S super e
Rebuilding a 4 speed transmission
Good video, watched a lowbrow one on timing a couple years ago and was left scratching my head
Glad to hear it was well explained. Next video coming out is a 4 speed Tranny rebuild!