The second vid for the build. It just stops with no credits. I was tired and didnt put some credits at the end. I will be working on part 3 tonight. Hope you enjoy......SKI
Any issues using twist drills without continuous coolant in aluminum like that? And with a "perfect fit" over the barrel as you said at 5:41, why would you go bigger with the bore? Kinda makes it impossible to end up with a concentric bore when clamped on the barrel, doesn't it? Slotting and clamping that barrel block vs. just installing it with set screws to prevent movement of the block on the barrel the way AR gas blocks are fitted seems kind of counter-intuitive. Especially since a tight, clamped fit would make it hard for the barrel to expand when hot. Looks like one hell of thick and heavy chunk of aluminum to get "compressed" with the clamp screws, too. What is the purpose of a "barrel block" anyway?
great video/ does anyone make barrel blocks for sale/ would hard wood work/ you used oil and brush would white lithium grease work better than the oil/ any information would be appreciated thank you
Question sir - i have a WW 11 Japanese rifle - an uncle brought 2 home 1 for him & 1 for my dad. A man was to re-bore for ammo USA type, he messed the barrel up. Should I try to have it re-bored again are change barrel's ?
@@Thomas-qg7vy I think he means II as in the Roman numerals. I'd say rebarrel. Is it a 6.5mm or 7.7mm? The common mod for those rifles in 6.5mm was rechamber with a .257 Roberts reamer, making it a 6.5/257.
Looking good SKI!
Sorry you had to let your Engineer go, good help is hard to find these days!
Looking forward to Part III
Thanks for sharing,
Ray
Nice vid SKI. dont be bothered by negative people. I hope you come up with more vids.
Roberto Miguel
cupulaa2m cupulaa2m interesting viewpoint thanks for sharing
love ur vids. keep on posting
Any issues using twist drills without continuous coolant in aluminum like that? And with a "perfect fit" over the barrel as you said at 5:41, why would you go bigger with the bore? Kinda makes it impossible to end up with a concentric bore when clamped on the barrel, doesn't it? Slotting and clamping that barrel block vs. just installing it with set screws to prevent movement of the block on the barrel the way AR gas blocks are fitted seems kind of counter-intuitive. Especially since a tight, clamped fit would make it hard for the barrel to expand when hot. Looks like one hell of thick and heavy chunk of aluminum to get "compressed" with the clamp screws, too. What is the purpose of a "barrel block" anyway?
He was brushing on cutting lube all through the drilling
great video/ does anyone make barrel blocks for sale/ would hard wood work/ you used oil and brush would white lithium grease work better than the oil/ any information would be appreciated thank you
One question, how much does the envelope have for a short gun, I mean turn by length, and how many stretch marks?
Question sir - i have a WW 11 Japanese rifle - an uncle brought 2 home 1 for him & 1 for my dad. A man was to re-bore for ammo USA type, he messed the barrel up. Should I try to have it re-bored again are change barrel's ?
World war eleven?
@@Thomas-qg7vy I think he means II as in the Roman numerals.
I'd say rebarrel. Is it a 6.5mm or 7.7mm?
The common mod for those rifles in 6.5mm was rechamber with a .257 Roberts reamer, making it a 6.5/257.
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“8”9
Anyone have a homemade 9mm barrel they will sell and post to me
Soooooo booooooooring