The single 18650 board does have 3.3v pins along the edge - just like the multi-cell versions - and they work absolutely fine. On every one of these boards I've used the circuit uses the boost converter to bump up to 5v, and then feeds that through a buck converter to drop back down to 3.3v for the 3.3v pins.
@@robojax I am aware of that. You state in the video that the single cell module doesn't have 3.3v output pins - this is incorrect. At least in my experience of using the single cell module the 3.3v pins work fine.
it should not give you 3.3V because the voltage from the battery goes through AMS1117 3.3V regulator has voltage drop of 1.1V. so you may get 3.3V only if battery is 4.2V-1.1V=3.1V and that is the maximum you would get. in voltage of battery like 3.7V you will get much less.
@@robojax Again - please read my previous comment properly. The 3.3v is generated AFTER the boost converter to 5v. Whatever the voltage of the 18650 it is boosted to 5v first, then that 5v is fed into the AMS1117 to generate the 3.3v - hence you will always get 3.3v as long as the boost circuit is able to generate the 5v in the first place. I would suggest you take a look at Andreas Spiess video on these modules where he reverse engineers the circuit and explains how they work very well.
I have one of the 4 cell shields. I need to move the power button and have a long cord attached. Could you do a video on what you would do in that situation? Thnx.
I recently started looking at these 18650 battery shields on Amazon, eBay and a few other places and I can't find any that tell me for certain that the circuit board will not be fried if the battery is inserted in the wrong direction. Most of them explicitly say that if the battery is inserted in the wrong direction then the board will be fried! So my question is: Does anyone know of any better brands of battery shields that are engineered well enough to the point where the circuit board will not fry if the battery is inserted in the wrong direction? 🤔 I'm wanting to use one of these 18650 battery shields in an end use product and I can't have my customers accidentally inserting the batteries in the wrong direction and then frying the board.
it needs MicroUSB or USB-C connected which should supply 5V to this module. so you need buck converter to accept your panel volage like 12V to 24V or whatever you have and converts it to 5V. The output must be 5V to be compatible to this.
"useless" = Not fulfilling or not expected to achieve the intended purpose or desired outcome. How is this module useless? The guy shows us how to use it and when to use it, so he achieved the intended purpose.
@@IronBalls007 useless because it's no efficient for use with microcontrollers over long time. 30mA standby current is almost the same as an microcontroller use it self.
it has has Normal and Hold option (the two and 4 cell). when you set it to Normal, it consume 12mA. It consumes 30mA when you set it to Hold. the values shown are not from the battery, but from the charger. thanks
Those are strong words, considering what you are proposing won’t work. The whole point of this was to provide 5v to a micro controller or SBC. How are you going to get 5v out of your proposed solution? Additionally, those batteries he was using have no protection, so where is your DW01? Okay, so maybe you’ll get some button top 18650s that have protection. Still don’t know how you are going to power a 5v device with 3v3. So maybe you’ll get a boost board. Congratulations, with the protection board, your 4056, and the boost converter, you’ve now got three boards to do what he is doing in one. And still have no battery holder. And have, most likely, even more power waste.
Thank you for the Farsi subtitles and information❤
سلامت باشید. این هم مجرای ویدیو های فارسی من:
www.youtube.com/@ilmofan/playlists
@@robojax اوه! خیلی ممنون 🔥
The single 18650 board does have 3.3v pins along the edge - just like the multi-cell versions - and they work absolutely fine. On every one of these boards I've used the circuit uses the boost converter to bump up to 5v, and then feeds that through a buck converter to drop back down to 3.3v for the 3.3v pins.
on 2 and 3 cells, the batteries are in parallel. They are like ONE battery.
@@robojax I am aware of that. You state in the video that the single cell module doesn't have 3.3v output pins - this is incorrect. At least in my experience of using the single cell module the 3.3v pins work fine.
it should not give you 3.3V because the voltage from the battery goes through AMS1117 3.3V regulator has voltage drop of 1.1V. so you may get 3.3V only if battery is 4.2V-1.1V=3.1V and that is the maximum you would get. in voltage of battery like 3.7V you will get much less.
by the way I measured it when recording and did not bother to show it so I just said it.
@@robojax Again - please read my previous comment properly. The 3.3v is generated AFTER the boost converter to 5v. Whatever the voltage of the 18650 it is boosted to 5v first, then that 5v is fed into the AMS1117 to generate the 3.3v - hence you will always get 3.3v as long as the boost circuit is able to generate the 5v in the first place. I would suggest you take a look at Andreas Spiess video on these modules where he reverse engineers the circuit and explains how they work very well.
I have one of the 4 cell shields. I need to move the power button and have a long cord attached. Could you do a video on what you would do in that situation? Thnx.
Hi Ahmad, thx for the great video. I wanted to know from where did you get the batteries?
Hi, you can get the battery from here s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFjIqEP and I have added the link in description
I updated the link
Heyy, glad to see a new video from you :) Great products review, thank you Ahmad. Hope you are doing ok man !
Hey, good to hear from you. I am good. I hope are doing well. Cheers
I recently started looking at these 18650 battery shields on Amazon, eBay and a few other places and I can't find any that tell me for certain that the circuit board will not be fried if the battery is inserted in the wrong direction. Most of them explicitly say that if the battery is inserted in the wrong direction then the board will be fried!
So my question is: Does anyone know of any better brands of battery shields that are engineered well enough to the point where the circuit board will not fry if the battery is inserted in the wrong direction? 🤔
I'm wanting to use one of these 18650 battery shields in an end use product and I can't have my customers accidentally inserting the batteries in the wrong direction and then frying the board.
Your Video is very infromative. Please do the same load test on 2 cell or 4 cell version because they are different than 1 cell.
Sir i have a question, if i only have 2 batteries, and I use the 4 channel one, will it still work( able to receive AND supply energy)?
Hi, thanks for the video, it's very helpful. Will the 5v and 3.3v output be constant all the time, (with full or empty batteries range)?
Yes
Not with empty. Empty means below 3.2V
@@robojax when the batteries are below 3.2v, will it unplug the connection with the device? For example Arduino
it will stop the output voltage
@@robojax ok thank very much
I can connect an esp32 while charging the batteries. Thinking about making a datalogger.
Interesting video, a bit all over the place, but still nice to see what you have to explain
What circuit do you need to keep it charged with a small solar panel?
it needs MicroUSB or USB-C connected which should supply 5V to this module. so you need buck converter to accept your panel volage like 12V to 24V or whatever you have and converts it to 5V. The output must be 5V to be compatible to this.
The link you provided has input of 4.5V to 5.5V. it will burn if you connect it to solar panel.
@@robojax I have a panel that normally charges 6v batteries and think I can use a 7805 to regulate it, correct?
Great, Thanks
I plugged a charger to big USB port and battery start smoking :) (this was before I even watched this tutorial)
Sorry - but I don't like the new 'jerky' format - it's all over the place and quite difficult to follow.
what format? this is not Arduino project. hardware can't be organized like that.
🌟🌷🌟
That module is useless. Better to use an LDO like HT7333 and TP4056 when powering with battery.
"useless" = Not fulfilling or not expected to achieve the intended purpose or desired outcome. How is this module useless? The guy shows us how to use it and when to use it, so he achieved the intended purpose.
@@IronBalls007 useless because it's no efficient for use with microcontrollers over long time. 30mA standby current is almost the same as an microcontroller use it self.
it has has Normal and Hold option (the two and 4 cell). when you set it to Normal, it consume 12mA. It consumes 30mA when you set it to Hold. the values shown are not from the battery, but from the charger. thanks
Those are strong words, considering what you are proposing won’t work.
The whole point of this was to provide 5v to a micro controller or SBC. How are you going to get 5v out of your proposed solution? Additionally, those batteries he was using have no protection, so where is your DW01? Okay, so maybe you’ll get some button top 18650s that have protection. Still don’t know how you are going to power a 5v device with 3v3.
So maybe you’ll get a boost board. Congratulations, with the protection board, your 4056, and the boost converter, you’ve now got three boards to do what he is doing in one. And still have no battery holder. And have, most likely, even more power waste.
@@robojax Obviously we set it to "hold" when we want to source loads which consume current smaller than 50mA for example?