Amazing, very knowledgeable man, I have seen another youtuber use the same loctite,but all he did was turn the bike upside down, and applied loctite around the stanchion, I highly doubt that worked long term, admittedly though we don't all have the knowledge and equipment like you do. Excellent work.
Damn man well done!! Very articulate the way you explained this, impressive! I can’t stand bike noises, I’ve been buying new forks every time this happens! Next time I’m sending it your way.
Thanks for adding your observations on possible climate correlation to this mechanism. Maybe the water and dirt are getting in there during heavy loading that is getting the corrosion started. Now I'm going to go seal my new CSA joints with some permatex :) or 609
Oliver, this is fantastic. I bought some RS dropper post seal bushings from you - those were great. I need to have you do this. I have a 2016 RS Pike. It's still butter soft. I take care of it. I've chased that creaking everywhere - replaced the headset, all new frame bearings, BB. Everything. This is it. Thank you .
@@bryanseare2704 Not sure which, but I used Loctite 290 and it quieted it by 95% . Turn the bike over, get the forks perfectly straight up, perpendicular and let the Loctite seep in around the stanchions and steerer tube. I gave mine 24 hrs. It works. Be careful with it - It will eat paint if left too long.
A shame I didn't see this video when I did mine, didn't use sandpaper, just pressed it back in with loctite, it helped make the creaking quieter and not as frequent, but it's still here.
Hi, good video I’m running fox factory 36 forks and have recently notice under heavy braking that it looks like the top of my wheel is flexing towards the left by 10-15mm (brake side). My thru axle is torqued up to spec and my my spoke tension is good. I find it had to believe that I’m getting flex in my forks… like I used to get in my old 32 quick release ones from many moons ago. Any advise? Thanks,
This is an awesome video! Perfectly explained. Is there any chance to buy all the tubes and complete set of all adapters from you? These are pretty unique...
Hey! Did you made the tool to support the csu when pressing out the steerer tube? I have a fox 36 performance and would like to try this myself but I don't know how to make that tool/where to buy it
Hello, do you have a website, or a business site? I need a steerer tube replaced. i have one on order and i will need to have the short one replaced and the new longer one pressed in.
Hey man this is an amazing video, I read in one of the comments that you make the adapters for others if wanting to buy, can you please quote me how much will be for those, also where I can find your info besides here? Alex in California
I'll do a q and a with anyone that wants answers but I took a look at that poll and most people said they've never had creaking or that it turned out to be their headset so I don't think I'll have much of an audience over at pinkbike. I also tried to get this video up on their homepage but they weren't interested.
Hey man this is awesome! I weigh 225 and live in the land of heavy braking (bellingham). My 36 has creaked since week one pretty much. Fox said it didn't and sent new bushings which certainly didn't fix anything haha. I just had the internals worked at a suspension shop where they found out I broke my Grip2 damper in half and crushed my compression circuit too. I'm selling my reworked fork on a bike to a friend and told him it creaks. He's way lighter and more mellow so maybe not an issue. The shop said it creaked both at stanchions and also steerer tube. If it becomes a problem, is it something he could ship to you next time he needs a service?
Hi Oliver, I messaged your company on facebook I think, but not sure if you’re still doing this work? I have a 2014 Rockshox Pike thats gotten progressively worse creaks over the years, and now the stanchions are creaking as well as the steerer. Super distracting obviously on the ride. Anyway let me know if you’re still doing it! I’d like to get a quote and ship them to you if possible.
Pra rever tem que ser adesivo anaeróbico loctite 518 perfeito resolve,, elimina o ar e assim não deixa entrar ar e a vedação é perfeita , se entra ae causa oxidação que gera ruído
Hi! The video was very insightful, the article too. My Marzocchi (Fox) Bomber z2 (34 Rythm) just started creaking, but it was vibrating from day 1 if I bounced my bike on the rear wheel, I just assumed it was normal. I eliminated all other causes and concluded it's the CSU. It makes cracking noises under breaking and landing jumps and drops. The thing is, my bike is only 4 months old so I could try to get a new CSU under warranty, but the timing couldn't be worse, and as you said, that doesn't guarantee resolving the issue. My creaking is still mild compared to your 36 from the video and I think it's only on one stanchion. Do you think this would damage the fork if left unchecked? Or do you think that the loctite wicking inside the press-fit on it's own would be adequate enough? Such as in this video: ua-cam.com/video/_FsYV9Q03uc/v-deo.html I'm just looking for the best fix that doesn't involve having a fork-less bike for 6 weeks. Sorry for the long read and thank you for all the time spent helping the rest of us out with your expertise.
The fretting corrosion does create more pits over time but so far I haven’t seen a crown just catastrophically fail from fretting corrosion so I think you’re fine with waiting to get it taken care of. The wicking loctite actually works for a small percentage of people so it’s definitely worth a shot. I mean worst case scenario you ride the thing for years and then one winter offseason you can send the CSU to me and I’ll deal with the problem for 50 USD.
Awesome stuff . Kinda janky setup though. When dealing with expensive Kashima coatings and sealing surfaces you should set up some padding or something to protect the uppers around that Steel press
.. Bouncing KASHIMA all over, Didn't clean insides with alcohol after (and before applying locktite) ) ... My OCD... couldn't manage.. But well informative vid. Cheers
Normally you need to heat the crown to remove the legs? To replace steerer/legs in the crown , you heat the crown and chill the steerer or legs. The way you are doing it, you are removing metal from the crown and you wont get a proper fit. This is how connect these parts at factory.
Amazing, very knowledgeable man, I have seen another youtuber use the same loctite,but all he did was turn the bike upside down, and applied loctite around the stanchion, I highly doubt that worked long term, admittedly though we don't all have the knowledge and equipment like you do.
Excellent work.
Damn man well done!! Very articulate the way you explained this, impressive! I can’t stand bike noises, I’ve been buying new forks every time this happens! Next time I’m sending it your way.
Thanks for adding your observations on possible climate correlation to this mechanism. Maybe the water and dirt are getting in there during heavy loading that is getting the corrosion started. Now I'm going to go seal my new CSA joints with some permatex :) or 609
Oliver, this is fantastic. I bought some RS dropper post seal bushings from you - those were great. I need to have you do this. I have a 2016 RS Pike. It's still butter soft. I take care of it. I've chased that creaking everywhere - replaced the headset, all new frame bearings, BB. Everything. This is it. Thank you .
I have this same problem with a 2016 pike. It feels great but yeah creaks like mad. Was it on the steerer tube for you or on the stantions too?
@@bryanseare2704 Not sure which, but I used Loctite 290 and it quieted it by 95% . Turn the bike over, get the forks perfectly straight up, perpendicular and let the Loctite seep in around the stanchions and steerer tube. I gave mine 24 hrs. It works. Be careful with it - It will eat paint if left too long.
Great video! What is your view on straightening die CSU and lowers do minimize friction/stiction?
A shame I didn't see this video when I did mine, didn't use sandpaper, just pressed it back in with loctite, it helped make the creaking quieter and not as frequent, but it's still here.
can you tell me about the thread of the press tool for the standpipes?
I'm a little struggling to measure the thread
Hi, good video I’m running fox factory 36 forks and have recently notice under heavy braking that it looks like the top of my wheel is flexing towards the left by 10-15mm (brake side).
My thru axle is torqued up to spec and my my spoke tension is good. I find it had to believe that I’m getting flex in my forks… like I used to get in my old 32 quick release ones from many moons ago. Any advise? Thanks,
Brilliant video and very clearly explained.
you are a G for making this niche video. Thank you!
Subscribed! This is the kind of video and topics i would like to see more :)
This is an awesome video! Perfectly explained. Is there any chance to buy all the tubes and complete set of all adapters from you? These are pretty unique...
I can make the tooling for anybody that wants it. Visit my website in the description and send me an email from there
Just 330 like... need 1 Million for this video
Hey! Did you made the tool to support the csu when pressing out the steerer tube? I have a fox 36 performance and would like to try this myself but I don't know how to make that tool/where to buy it
Hello, do you have a website, or a business site? I need a steerer tube replaced. i have one on order and i will need to have the short one replaced and the new longer one pressed in.
Hey man this is an amazing video, I read in one of the comments that you make the adapters for others if wanting to buy, can you please quote me how much will be for those, also where I can find your info besides here? Alex in California
Hi I got some rockshock Sektor rl and I need to change out the steerer tube where would I get the parts for it
Have you worked with manitou mezzer pro forks? they get this issue often
Article on PB about creaky CSU issues a few days ago. Maybe a good time for some Q&A in the comment section.
I'll do a q and a with anyone that wants answers but I took a look at that poll and most people said they've never had creaking or that it turned out to be their headset so I don't think I'll have much of an audience over at pinkbike. I also tried to get this video up on their homepage but they weren't interested.
That's disappointing to hear. I don't think a single person I ride with hasn't ever had creaking CSU issues... I am in the PNW though.
@@slurryz I hadn't had any (also pnw) until I got a bike with a Fox 36 rhythm a month ago. Now it is creaking.
@@olivermajewski are you uk based and would you replace a sterr tube on my lyrics?
How many of these did you butcher till you perfected your methods?
Do you sell the parts to remove the steerer tube? Also do you know where we can purchase a new one? I messed up cut too short
Hi, I have a creaky Manitou Circus Comp. Do you fix these too?
Hey man this is awesome! I weigh 225 and live in the land of heavy braking (bellingham). My 36 has creaked since week one pretty much. Fox said it didn't and sent new bushings which certainly didn't fix anything haha. I just had the internals worked at a suspension shop where they found out I broke my Grip2 damper in half and crushed my compression circuit too. I'm selling my reworked fork on a bike to a friend and told him it creaks. He's way lighter and more mellow so maybe not an issue. The shop said it creaked both at stanchions and also steerer tube. If it becomes a problem, is it something he could ship to you next time he needs a service?
Yeah for sure. Just contact me at blueliquidlabs.com and we can set it up.
Wow great video ! Thanks
Hi, it's this proces same on Rockshox pike 2015 soloair? I mean if it's also pressfit. Thanks.
Hi, did you buy the tubes and adapters? Or made them in the lathe? Thank you.
I made them in a lathe both for myself and for others.
Do you do this procedure for others? If so, what do you charge? and how long turnaround?
I would also be interested in this.
When you say 0.1mm interference, does that mean the ID of the crown is 0.1mm smaller than the OD of the stanchion?
Hi Oliver, I messaged your company on facebook I think, but not sure if you’re still doing this work? I have a 2014 Rockshox Pike thats gotten progressively worse creaks over the years, and now the stanchions are creaking as well as the steerer. Super distracting obviously on the ride. Anyway let me know if you’re still doing it! I’d like to get a quote and ship them to you if possible.
Have you ever tried using dry ice?
Hey, can we somehow get in contact? I would like to know the measurements for dyes/adapters for press.
the question is if this is just a cosmetic issue or if it must be fixed? couldnt find an answer to this!
What if I were to just put superglue in between the stanchions and crown before pressing back in?
How do you buy just a steerer tube. I need a longer one.
great tutorial, thanks a lot!!!
Hey Oliver I need this done, how much?
A 6t press would work?
hello what is that thing you are driving
Great work!
Great Work! Keep it up!
What are you charging for all the adapters
thank you sir.
I wonder if fox or RS insert the stanctions or the steerer tube with liquid nitrogen at the factory....
great video with such simple explainations ! good job
What loctite did you use ?
Can I just weld the stanchions to the cross bar thingy? That should solve it for good.
Outstanding
Pra rever tem que ser adesivo anaeróbico loctite 518 perfeito resolve,, elimina o ar e assim não deixa entrar ar e a vedação é perfeita , se entra ae causa oxidação que gera ruído
you are the man! thanks!!!!
Why use a thread locker instead of a retaining compound that is more suitable to fill the gaps.
awesome
So the inside needs to be honed like an engine cylinder (for retaining the oil on the walls ), and in this case to retain the Loctite on the walls
would be very intersting what magnitude of surface roughness we are talking about!
Wow,thanks for the college
Lol I bent one of those harbor freight presses trying to pop my cars wheel bearing off.
Hi! The video was very insightful, the article too. My Marzocchi (Fox) Bomber z2 (34 Rythm) just started creaking, but it was vibrating from day 1 if I bounced my bike on the rear wheel, I just assumed it was normal. I eliminated all other causes and concluded it's the CSU. It makes cracking noises under breaking and landing jumps and drops.
The thing is, my bike is only 4 months old so I could try to get a new CSU under warranty, but the timing couldn't be worse, and as you said, that doesn't guarantee resolving the issue. My creaking is still mild compared to your 36 from the video and I think it's only on one stanchion.
Do you think this would damage the fork if left unchecked? Or do you think that the loctite wicking inside the press-fit on it's own would be adequate enough? Such as in this video: ua-cam.com/video/_FsYV9Q03uc/v-deo.html
I'm just looking for the best fix that doesn't involve having a fork-less bike for 6 weeks.
Sorry for the long read and thank you for all the time spent helping the rest of us out with your expertise.
The fretting corrosion does create more pits over time but so far I haven’t seen a crown just catastrophically fail from fretting corrosion so I think you’re fine with waiting to get it taken care of. The wicking loctite actually works for a small percentage of people so it’s definitely worth a shot. I mean worst case scenario you ride the thing for years and then one winter offseason you can send the CSU to me and I’ll deal with the problem for 50 USD.
That looks just like my car jack.
Awesome stuff . Kinda janky setup though. When dealing with expensive Kashima coatings and sealing surfaces you should set up some padding or something to protect the uppers around that Steel press
.. Bouncing KASHIMA all over, Didn't clean insides with alcohol after (and before applying locktite) ) ... My OCD... couldn't manage.. But well informative vid. Cheers
Doing this is not a great idea and doing it without any delta-T is a very bad idea. 😅
Normally you need to heat the crown to remove the legs? To replace steerer/legs in the crown , you heat the crown and chill the steerer or legs. The way you are doing it, you are removing metal from the crown and you wont get a proper fit. This is how connect these parts at factory.
Plus putting Loctite on the steerer means you can never replace that steerer again!
@@plang42 - Yeah that 609 once cured is chemically welded.
Heat loctite to remove