You are the only person on youtube after several years who actually helped me found out my problem. I’m excellent with measuring and marking but after the cut, it’s never tight and I was losing my mind. Thank you
I like how he talks slowly in order for everybody to really understand what he’s saying and the videos really informative. Now I won’t look at doors the same
Life saver! Thank you SO much! I'd noticed on occasion that my saw seemed to be fractionally off and I couldn't figure it out. Slow motion helped no end, as I was just putting the blade straight in and didn't realise the blade wobbled. 'Slow and steady' wins the race! Now my cuts are as tight as I could want... THANK YOU!
Just bought a double bevel sliding compound miter saw. After watching this video, I think I will return it! Just kidding. Great video, who knew that such precise technique is required to cut with these saws? I didn't.
This is so interesting. Thank you so much. I had a feeling that I wasn’t moving it as fluidly as I should’ve. I’ll definitely be paying more attention to that hopefully it helps
That is a lot of great tips.. I have already noticed that when I am cutting hardwood, I have had issues with not being squared, and now I realized I was rushing the cut and probably deflecting the blade a bit.. I slowed down the cutting and amazingly, my cuts were dead on 90 degrees.. I also uses some of your techniques to make sure my blade was plumb and square..
I really love how this video shows the do's and don'ts such as allowing the saw to gain max speed before doing a cut as it can make your work inaccurate and pulling the workpiece into the cut helps make the piece as accurate as possible.
Are you kidding me? I've been doing it wrong! What a lesson to be learned. Everyone should see this video. I have a Rigid 12 inch compound no wonder my 45's are off. Thanks for the help!!!!!!
Thanks for these Mitre saw tuts, I thought I was the only frustrated person using these and thought my saw was a heap of junk only to realise the tolerances seem to be not so uncommon.
Excellent work! I've done tens of thousands of cuts over decades, and I never knew 90 percent of the content in this video. This will be enormously helpful going forward. Thank you for taking the time to make these great videos.
Thanks. This applies to all power tools. Let it come up to speed and let the blade do the cutting. Sometimes when cutting is going slow say on my table saw, I remind myself of cutting by hand!
Thank you for sharing this video. On a picture frame, if the bottom long piece has been cut short, I was thinking of cutting the top long piece short (same length as the top) as well, but widening the rabbet on one of the side pieces. Would this work?
What’s the alignment gauge link? I have a rocker one that only fits in a miter slot. For picture frames, which one be most accurate; a tablesaw using a Incra-miter sled or a “miter saw”? Stupid question but I’m only a couple years deep so far…. Dewalt tools… blades are slightly warped as well…. I’m buying new ones now…. Appreciate your input!
Hey you are very smart thanks I didn’t know it took practice to cut straight. I thought it cut straight out the box. Which should I start with first? Setting up the miter saw to be straight or practice plunge cutting so I’m wishing 1 and 2 thousandths. Thanks great explanation, I just got a miter saw
Woodworking Beginner: New - Update. This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work). Tips and Test: It's better to know than not to know. Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS. Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 . (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). (If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed). Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. (test is completed). Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade. The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade. Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing. Conclusion: Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours). Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
I noticed you slide the wood away at the end of the cut. How would you deal with a scenario where you are using a stop block? Also, does this make the hold down clamp on the saw obsolete? I see lots of people let the saw come to a stop before removing the piece in these cases. But seeing your slow mo it seems like actually removing the blade whilst still spinning at full speed might be better for cut quality?
@@andriyshapovalov8886 To me it seems very simple that he is referring to a stop block that is for a 4 inch cut lets say and he is wondering how you could take that block away from the blade, like the UA-camr did, without letting the blade come to a complete stop first...
I never looked at operating the mitre saw from your perspective. I considered the quest done when you made the purchase. Most mitre saws have their handle out of the blade plane anyway, and just using the handle brings unavoidable blade deflection. i guess for your level of expectations, there was only one mitre saw on the market...
Hello sir ..I have been trying to debug a miter cut problem for a long time with my Makita saw. When I cut a 45 (vertical) , the cut is actually bowed ..meaning the tips my be 45 but in the center of the cut it has a bow. So trying to joint two cut 45's is impossible What causes that ? The blade is perfectly aligned but its almost as if there was a blade flex ..drving me nuts. Help would be appreciated !!!
Hello, First I would check if the wood is actually flat as this will happen if it’s not. Also does it happen when you cut 90 or any other angle vertical?
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Thanks....when the board is laid flat, and I do a straight cut , its perfect. If I rotate (left to right) is good. Its when I tilt the blade to a 45 (it tilts left) I get these cuts with the bow. Its not just the tip but the depth of the cut is rounded ever so slightly. So if you cut two boards , try to mate the 45's , they wont mate because while the tips touch, it leaves a gap in the middle. Been trying to debus this for two years and as I said, I aligned the blade with a straightedge...level, etc.
@@arcorob If your making a bevel cut then yes the blade is deflecting, you have to be very steady when making that cut any downward pressure will cause the blade to distort. This is the hardest cut to make, takes some practice!
Would be nice to have a workshop and a festool mitre saw when cutting window frames and architraves, but my work environment is typically outdoors in rain, sleet or snow with a company owned DeWalt that's been bashed around a fair bit. Getting a perfect mitre cut seems like pot luck a lot of the time in those conditions.
maybe that's why festool kapex has that awkard handle down the middle, so that you minimize the sideways torque you might place by having an offset handle/switch.
At first I was like why would you put a false fence on a kapex? And then I realized you gave it set u stationary in a shop. Anyways all great tips. And like you said practice makes perfect. I’ve bin trimming houses and installing kitchens for 5+ years with my kapex. (Non slider dewalt before) will never go back to dewalt or anything else unless someone invents something similar. If you think run out on kapex is big lol try dewilt/Bosh glide/ ridged or anything else. Only thing that comes close so far is makita 10” with forward rails (similar to festools design) But even with a kapex you really need to work with it for a year to get used to handle/smooth rails/plunge/angle finder and bevel adjustments to truly appreciate it. Even though I’m already out of warranty and on my 2nd armature.
I am so glad I saw this video and read your comment on your second armature for the kapex. I'm glad I saved $1500. For the price, that runout is a joke
if anyone out there is as confused as i was while watching this - there is some crucial dialogue only in the left channel audio. make sure to wear *both* ears if you're using headphones lol
@@thebuilditchannel8609 awesome thanks! I can hold two pieces together easy by hand, but getting them up on the wall or piece permanently is a different ballgame.
The only thing missing in this video is showing people to check alignment of their fence and blade. If either one is out of square all these techniques he showed isn’t going to help.
I about puked when I saw that blade wobble - get real and get a better blade what is shown is unacceptable at any speed. Test cut two pieces of oak at 45 full speed on contact. An out of balance blade will create a curve cut wide in middle before it begins to track straight - move on to another blade don't waste your time. Really don't like that saw just because of working surface really small with voids, seems top heavy with high starting reach.
You are the only person on youtube after several years who actually helped me found out my problem. I’m excellent with measuring and marking but after the cut, it’s never tight and I was losing my mind. Thank you
I think you've solved my problems. No nonsense, excellent info. Was about to put my miter saw in semi-retirement. Many thanx.
Holy COW! Thank you for showing the *why* behind being so precise.
I like how he talks slowly in order for everybody to really understand what he’s saying and the videos really informative. Now I won’t look at doors the same
That was awesome I even saved it to watch it again and again practice makes perfect 👍
Thank you!! Yes doing the right practice makes all the difference!!👍🏻
Wow! This is a fantastic video. Thank you!
Thanks!! Glad you liked it!!
Life saver! Thank you SO much! I'd noticed on occasion that my saw seemed to be fractionally off and I couldn't figure it out. Slow motion helped no end, as I was just putting the blade straight in and didn't realise the blade wobbled. 'Slow and steady' wins the race! Now my cuts are as tight as I could want... THANK YOU!
Great tips! Thanks!
Just bought a double bevel sliding compound miter saw. After watching this video, I think I will return it! Just kidding. Great video, who knew that such precise technique is required to cut with these saws? I didn't.
I've been getting weird results on my new saw as I've tried to calibrate the 45 miter detent. I'm definitely going to try these tips out. Thanks!
This is so interesting. Thank you so much. I had a feeling that I wasn’t moving it as fluidly as I should’ve. I’ll definitely be paying more attention to that hopefully it helps
jUST GETTING INTO THIS, i LIKE YOUR STYLE AND FIND YOUR TIPS PRICELESS, THANK YOU
Thank you!! Glad you like it!! 😁👍🏻
Great tips! Just bought a sliding miter saw and just found your channel....good timing. Learned a lot!
Awesome, glad it helped!!😁👍🏻
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. I should have far less problems with my picture frames now.
Much appreciated
Awesome!! Glad you liked it!! Thank You!!
Very useful information and great video!!!
Informative and straight to the point. Thank you.
Thank you, glad you liked it!!😁👍🏻
Really well done! Great tips and good 1-2 flow of statement-proof-solution!
Thank You!!🙏🏻
Practice! Practice! Practice! Learned a lot from this video. I can see why some woodworkers would charge more for better quality work.
That is a lot of great tips.. I have already noticed that when I am cutting hardwood, I have had issues with not being squared, and now I realized I was rushing the cut and probably deflecting the blade a bit.. I slowed down the cutting and amazingly, my cuts were dead on 90 degrees.. I also uses some of your techniques to make sure my blade was plumb and square..
I really love how this video shows the do's and don'ts such as allowing the saw to gain max speed before doing a cut as it can make your work inaccurate and pulling the workpiece into the cut helps make the piece as accurate as possible.
You don’t pull the wood into the cut. You pull it away after it finished cutting.
Thank you. I’m just starting and this is some great info so I can do things with higher quality.
Nice! Glad you liked it!!😁👍🏻
Filled joint is my jam. i'm lucky to have the wood aiming the right way.
I want to smile every time I put a mitered joint together... 😩
Just found your channel. Great job! Excellent very clear instructions.
Are you kidding me? I've been doing it wrong! What a lesson to be learned. Everyone should see this video. I have a Rigid 12 inch compound no wonder my 45's are off. Thanks for the help!!!!!!
Yeah, I love it
Stellar tutorial.
Thanks!!😁👍🏻
Excellent video!!! When would you recommend using the hold down clamp that comes with kapex? Thank you in advance
Thank You!! Larger or longer pieces will benefit from being held more stable.
Thanks for these Mitre saw tuts, I thought I was the only frustrated person using these and thought my saw was a heap of junk only to realise the tolerances seem to be not so uncommon.
Thanks for watching, glad you like it!!
Excellent work! I've done tens of thousands of cuts over decades, and I never knew 90 percent of the content in this video. This will be enormously helpful going forward. Thank you for taking the time to make these great videos.
Going forward? You mean in the future. Going forward is present tense!
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 I don't know about you, but I like to go forward when I'm going forward :)
Thanks. This applies to all power tools. Let it come up to speed and let the blade do the cutting. Sometimes when cutting is going slow say on my table saw, I remind myself of cutting by hand!
Thanks for this!
😁👍🏻
Terrific tip
Thanks!! Glad it helped!!
Thank you for sharing this video. On a picture frame, if the bottom long piece has been cut short, I was thinking of cutting the top long piece short (same length as the top) as well, but widening the rabbet on one of the side pieces. Would this work?
Sorry, I don’t understand what your saying about the rabbit. As long as one side and the opposite side are the same size your frame will go together.
Got it. Thanks.
Great video. I actually cut my material the way you mention except pulling away as some of my material is clamped.
Great tips, great vid. this will help me a lot. btw, Have you ever thought of getting a lav mic?
Thanks!! Yeah this was one of my first videos, I have a mic now.
Thanks. I bet this is why I can have the kerf edge right on the line and the cut still overshoots it’s.
I do this everyday (I think at a high quality) and I alway feel like I learn something new watching you videos/posts boss man👊🏽
Nice shirt! It explains much of what you said.
Excellent lesson learnt thanks
Thank you sir
Great video
What’s the alignment gauge link? I have a rocker one that only fits in a miter slot. For picture frames, which one be most accurate; a tablesaw using a Incra-miter sled or a “miter saw”? Stupid question but I’m only a couple years deep so far…. Dewalt tools… blades are slightly warped as well…. I’m buying new ones now…. Appreciate your input!
Tablesaw is more accurate with the proper jigs but a mitersaw can also do a good job, either way works.
@@thebuilditchannel8609 ok great, I just stumbled across your UA-cam…..I’m assuming you have videos on a miter jig for a table saw? Thank you!
great video, thanks.
Great video. I am doing trim in my basement and joints aren’t tight. I was doing about everything wrong. Thanks
Thanks!! Glad it helped!
Gracias BG.
Hey you are very smart thanks I didn’t know it took practice to cut straight. I thought it cut straight out the box. Which should I start with first? Setting up the miter saw to be straight or practice plunge cutting so I’m wishing 1 and 2 thousandths. Thanks great explanation, I just got a miter saw
@@thebuilditchannel8609 can you link them? I’ve only seen one video
Is there a video showing the construction of your 45 degree jig. Thanks, Jim
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Thanks : ) -jb
Not yet but I will make one!
Woodworking Beginner: New - Update.
This test is only if you want to saw with precision with a miter saw.(test is not intended for rough and hard work).
Tips and Test: It's better to know than not to know.
Important to know if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a VERTICAL line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
First option: handle vertical positioned above the saw blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / Bosch GCM 8 SDE / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact/ Bosch PCM 8 SD / Hitachi C10FSH / Ridgid MS255SR 10-inch / Evolution Fury3-S / Evolution R255SMS / Metabo HPT C10FSBS / Hitachi C10FSB / Hitachi C10FS.
Second optie: handle horizontal positioned above the saw blade / Evolution R185SMS / Evolution F255SMS / Evolution RAGE3R255 SMS3 .
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
(If you want). You can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick to this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw (the wood it will remain in place until the test is completed).
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand or finger on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
(test is completed).
Step-4. Therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned VERTICAL in line above the saw blade.
The second option is the handle positioned HORIZONTAL in line above the saw blade.
Step-5. When you measure the vertical 90 degrees angle square (Digital Level Box) of you're sawblade don't forget that there is always some torsion in the aluminum housing.
Conclusion: Remember this, the test is only about torsion and nothing else how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing, you better not go for that. (the choices are yours).
Also with a cheap slide miter saw it is still better the handgriff in line a above the saw blade than on the right side. Maybe they will make it someday then we have a winner...
I noticed you slide the wood away at the end of the cut. How would you deal with a scenario where you are using a stop block? Also, does this make the hold down clamp on the saw obsolete?
I see lots of people let the saw come to a stop before removing the piece in these cases. But seeing your slow mo it seems like actually removing the blade whilst still spinning at full speed might be better for cut quality?
You may remove more material, on your lift with rotating blade.
@@andriyshapovalov8886 That's not even what this person was talking about... Do you feel wise now? lol
@@lightbulb1982 So, what do you believe he is taking about?
@@andriyshapovalov8886 To me it seems very simple that he is referring to a stop block that is for a 4 inch cut lets say and he is wondering how you could take that block away from the blade, like the UA-camr did, without letting the blade come to a complete stop first...
....The answer is... in a case like that you'll have to let the blade come to a complete stop first if you are cutting something delicate...
Could someone recommend a dial indicator with everything needed to check my saw?
You can get what you need on Amazon. I have a 3 part series on setting up your mitersaw where you can see all the tools needed.
I never looked at operating the mitre saw from your perspective. I considered the quest done when you made the purchase.
Most mitre saws have their handle out of the blade plane anyway, and just using the handle brings unavoidable blade deflection.
i guess for your level of expectations, there was only one mitre saw on the market...
Hello sir ..I have been trying to debug a miter cut problem for a long time with my Makita saw. When I cut a 45 (vertical) , the cut is actually bowed ..meaning the tips my be 45 but in the center of the cut it has a bow. So trying to joint two cut 45's is impossible What causes that ? The blade is perfectly aligned but its almost as if there was a blade flex ..drving me nuts. Help would be appreciated !!!
Hello, First I would check if the wood is actually flat as this will happen if it’s not. Also does it happen when you cut 90 or any other angle vertical?
@@thebuilditchannel8609 Thanks....when the board is laid flat, and I do a straight cut , its perfect. If I rotate (left to right) is good. Its when I tilt the blade to a 45 (it tilts left) I get these cuts with the bow. Its not just the tip but the depth of the cut is rounded ever so slightly. So if you cut two boards , try to mate the 45's , they wont mate because while the tips touch, it leaves a gap in the middle. Been trying to debus this for two years and as I said, I aligned the blade with a straightedge...level, etc.
@@arcorob If your making a bevel cut then yes the blade is deflecting, you have to be very steady when making that cut any downward pressure will cause the blade to distort. This is the hardest cut to make, takes some practice!
@@thebuilditchannel8609 it worked !!! Cut slow, perfect 45!! Thank you thank you !!!!
@@arcorob Awesome, glad it worked out!!
Would be nice to have a workshop and a festool mitre saw when cutting window frames and architraves, but my work environment is typically outdoors in rain, sleet or snow with a company owned DeWalt that's been bashed around a fair bit. Getting a perfect mitre cut seems like pot luck a lot of the time in those conditions.
True! Mitersaws need to be tuned and cared for to stay accurate!!
maybe that's why festool kapex has that awkard handle down the middle, so that you minimize the sideways torque you might place by having an offset handle/switch.
A saw that expensive should have zero play in the head
What do you call those things you clamp on the ends of the frame ?
Audio Levels!!!!
My new Kapex blade tracks about .0025 out of parallel along the slides.
At first I was like why would you put a false fence on a kapex? And then I realized you gave it set u stationary in a shop.
Anyways all great tips. And like you said practice makes perfect.
I’ve bin trimming houses and installing kitchens for 5+ years with my kapex. (Non slider dewalt before) will never go back to dewalt or anything else unless someone invents something similar. If you think run out on kapex is big lol try dewilt/Bosh glide/ ridged or anything else.
Only thing that comes close so far is makita 10” with forward rails (similar to festools design)
But even with a kapex you really need to work with it for a year to get used to handle/smooth rails/plunge/angle finder and bevel adjustments to truly appreciate it.
Even though I’m already out of warranty and on my 2nd armature.
I am so glad I saw this video and read your comment on your second armature for the kapex. I'm glad I saved $1500. For the price, that runout is a joke
Is removing the plastic blade protection and exposing your fingers to amputation part of making a good cut?
if anyone out there is as confused as i was while watching this - there is some crucial dialogue only in the left channel audio. make sure to wear *both* ears if you're using headphones lol
Though my joins (e.g. casing) always seem to go wrong when nailing them in place to the frame.
@@thebuilditchannel8609 awesome thanks! I can hold two pieces together easy by hand, but getting them up on the wall or piece permanently is a different ballgame.
Michael Buono I always preassemble my trim.
what about 45 degree cuts?
No matter what angle cut your making the principles stays the same.
I'm left-handed, always gives me problems with right-handed devices.
the problem is not my cutting skills or the actual saw... it's the old wavy house I'm trying to rejuvenate. perfect cut doesn't mean perfect fit. 😅
Enjoyed the video but encourage you to invest in a microphone
This reminds me of trigger manipulation when you fire a gun to avoid shooting off
The only thing missing in this video is showing people to check alignment of their fence and blade. If either one is out of square all these techniques he showed isn’t going to help.
There are 3 other detailed videos on my channel covering setting up the mitersaw along with mitersaw reviews showing how to check the saws.
isn't it dangerous that you have removed the blade guard ?
Guess the obvious 🤔 is to keep a sharp blade, not the same one that has been used for a couple years and thousands of cuts. 🤣
dos and donts.??a guide on the saw,,safety first
Above all else...have a sharp blade, no amount of technique will fix the wandering of a blunt blade.
He shows the blade wobble, but doesn't say whether it's normal, or a problem?!!
first thing get rid of that fine adjustment on the indicator base worthless piece of crap only moves around when you dont expect it
I about puked when I saw that blade wobble - get real and get a better blade what is shown is unacceptable at any speed. Test cut two pieces of oak at 45 full speed on contact. An out of balance blade will create a curve cut wide in middle before it begins to track straight - move on to another blade don't waste your time. Really don't like that saw just because of working surface really small with voids, seems top heavy with high starting reach.