I used to work at BBY almost 15+ years ago. I bought this new. I think we used to sell them for close to $400+ but the markup was insane. I think employee cost was around $100ish. I still have mine now on my HT system. Only annoying thing is that the front red LED display is known to start to give out. Depending on how mine is moved some of the numbers sometimes don't show, and a little tap on it makes it pop back up.
I credit this exact model with making my 2008 Samsung DLP TV last 12 years instead of the typical 1-2 years that I recently discovered before the DLP chip goes out. It's one of the very few from back then that uses an LED light engine instead of a bulb and color wheel, and has been an outstanding TV during its life. Being replaced with a projector now that I'm finally redoing my theater system and room from the group up. Something funny I noticed with mine is that when I would set it to monitor the current draw, it would randomly shut off the switched outlets. No rhyme nor reason that I could find behind that, so to this day I'm not sure if it was a fluke in mine, or a design flaw that affected all units. If I kept it set to monitor voltage, there was never an issue.
I picked one of these up at value world (similar to goodwill) for $10 six months ago. Took the gamble, and brought it home. Opened it up to find that small little transformer had all of the lead free solder joints broken, and was laying on the complete other side of the unit. Removed all of the lead free solder from the pads, and remounted with good leaded kester, as well as a liberal glob of silicone to secure the transformer. Worked good as new. But the problem is… I’ve still not set up up with my stereo system😂 too much going on, and I’d rather enjoy my Van Halen collection! Maybe this will inspire me to finally hook it all up this week
The first thing I tend to do when buying a new piece of electronic gear is open it up and see what I am REALLY buying… I wouldn’t say I’m an electronics expert, but I know enough to tell if they are using terrible components, or if there is going to be a chance of a big issue electrically, or mechanically some time down the road. There’s been a few times where it went right back to the store after seeing inside of the item. I would rather have an ugly old piece of electronics with solid innards than something sleek, fancy, and glittery that chicks love… but terrible design inside ANY DAY of the week!
After hooking this up to my 85 inch Samsung TV and my onkyo Receiver the difference was night and day. The clarity was amazing to my 2022 TV. It was great before but I could definitely see a difference and if you can find a good working one my suggestion would be to by it. You can pick them up on ebay for around 80/100 dollars. Very well made. These things were like $500 when they came out 15 years ago. I found one that had been in a closet for 10 years at a church and was told they used it 15 years ago when they used to have these church bizarres outside in the parking lot. It maybe had a total of 100 hrs on it I paid $100 bucks for it well I actually made a 100 dollar donation. Very happy with it looks and sounds brand new..
I have one and I wish it had a replaceable power cable that cable is a little too long but it's 14AWG so it's correctly rated for 15AMPs. Ironically it's probably that best product they have ever made.
I got the monster power pro 2500 and Ive still ben tryna figure out the difference between the analog filter sockets and the digital filter sockets.... Ive used up both my digital slots and only have analog slots available. would it be harmful to plug a computer into an analog power filter slot?
No the only difference is that the digital slots have a little bit more high-frequency filtering because Electronics tend to have more high frequency noise than analog otherwise you can plug in anything anywhere you like
Great video. I have the Monster Power Pro 3500. I noticed that on the plug that goes into the wall, it flashes amber. Is this normal, or is it telling me I have an issue? The lights on the front panel are not showing any kind of an issue.
Question for you: I purchased 2 model HTUPS 2700 from an estate sale, both had an "ERR" when I plugged in, removed the panel and the batteries were missing. Purchased a set of 2 batteries to try 1 of them. Seems to work nicely, however when I unplug from the wall, the abnormal voltage light comes on and it shows 190 volts before shutting off. Is this normal?
Not sure how long this video has been up but I do have a question. I live in the mid south and get a lot of lightning. Is this thing repairable if it gets hit hard enough to take out one of those thingys u were talking about?
I have one of these hooked up to each of my TV's. They are awesome and improve video and audio quality of my TVs. People don't believe me when i tell them about them.
@@CatusMaximus I Going to need to use a 100 footer. I don’t know if it’s practical but it’s the only option I have . Is it safe to do that to run all the equipment on?
Audio equipment, the cost of the R&D budget is weighted heavily on the case and marketing wordsmith. Less so with the off the shelf circuit components.
.5 amps isn't 50watts as the power factor of this device is low. I'd measure it externally if you really think it pulls that much with no load connected.
I have one that does seem odd reading .5 amp with nothing connected. I have a pre/pro, power amp ( 4x320 watt class D ), CD player, PS4 connected to mine on standby all of that only shows .4AMPs. While all on PS4 just playing UA-cam is like 1.1amps , gaming/movies it like 1.4~1.5, PS4 off just playing a CD is .8 AMPs.
Searching for some guidance to fix my 3600 MKII, I came across your video. You sound very knowledgable about the guts in this sort of component, so maybe you have some thoughts on what might be wrong with mine. I came across this video ua-cam.com/video/gWrj2zMnjgg/v-deo.html that shows the same thing as happening to mine. I had replaced some gear and moved some gear around with no issues. A couple nights later, I heard a buzzing/humming noise that sounded like it was coming from the 3600. Turns out it was not coming from the 3600; it was coming from an LED lightbulb in my ceiling light. However, in researching the noise, I touched the "Dimmer" knob on the 3600, and the unit died and started the clicking cycle like in that video. (I wonder if some sort of static discharge triggered something or if there is some sort of short in that knob???) Anyhow, I read the various comments in the link I provided and decided to order those black relays. They arrived today, and I replaced them. This did not fix the issue. Ugh. I think I might try to replace the white relays now??? The clicking definitely is coming from one of those, but I think that is part of the start-up process anyway, right? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
I recently removed mine from my system after it had been there for years. I call it a performance choke, not a power conditioner. The Monster Power HTS-xxxx gizmos are shit. Don't buy one, don't use one and you'll be better off.
Without real measurements from an EMI Dirty Electricity Meter in mV, this review is worthless and is just based on personal opinion. Cleaning up "dirty electric" is usually negligible to zero in the vast majority of so-called power conditioners.
Very informative and concise! Just piked one up NEW in the box for $60 bucks! Thank You!
You got a great deal on that!
Nice, one just came up on marketplace for $50. Thanks for the recommendation!
I used to work at BBY almost 15+ years ago. I bought this new. I think we used to sell them for close to $400+ but the markup was insane. I think employee cost was around $100ish. I still have mine now on my HT system. Only annoying thing is that the front red LED display is known to start to give out. Depending on how mine is moved some of the numbers sometimes don't show, and a little tap on it makes it pop back up.
I credit this exact model with making my 2008 Samsung DLP TV last 12 years instead of the typical 1-2 years that I recently discovered before the DLP chip goes out. It's one of the very few from back then that uses an LED light engine instead of a bulb and color wheel, and has been an outstanding TV during its life. Being replaced with a projector now that I'm finally redoing my theater system and room from the group up.
Something funny I noticed with mine is that when I would set it to monitor the current draw, it would randomly shut off the switched outlets. No rhyme nor reason that I could find behind that, so to this day I'm not sure if it was a fluke in mine, or a design flaw that affected all units. If I kept it set to monitor voltage, there was never an issue.
I picked one of these up at value world (similar to goodwill) for $10 six months ago. Took the gamble, and brought it home. Opened it up to find that small little transformer had all of the lead free solder joints broken, and was laying on the complete other side of the unit. Removed all of the lead free solder from the pads, and remounted with good leaded kester, as well as a liberal glob of silicone to secure the transformer. Worked good as new.
But the problem is… I’ve still not set up up with my stereo system😂 too much going on, and I’d rather enjoy my Van Halen collection!
Maybe this will inspire me to finally hook it all up this week
The first thing I tend to do when buying a new piece of electronic gear is open it up and see what I am REALLY buying… I wouldn’t say I’m an electronics expert, but I know enough to tell if they are using terrible components, or if there is going to be a chance of a big issue electrically, or mechanically some time down the road. There’s been a few times where it went right back to the store after seeing inside of the item. I would rather have an ugly old piece of electronics with solid innards than something sleek, fancy, and glittery that chicks love… but terrible design inside ANY DAY of the week!
I just picked one of these up at an estate sale for $20 lol. Used your video to learn everything about it. Thanks for the upload!
After hooking this up to my 85 inch Samsung TV and my onkyo Receiver the difference was night and day. The clarity was amazing to my 2022 TV. It was great before but I could definitely see a difference and if you can find a good working one my suggestion would be to by it. You can pick them up on ebay for around 80/100 dollars. Very well made. These things were like $500 when they came out 15 years ago. I found one that had been in a closet for 10 years at a church and was told they used it 15 years ago when they used to have these church bizarres outside in the parking lot. It maybe had a total of 100 hrs on it I paid $100 bucks for it well I actually made a 100 dollar donation. Very happy with it looks and sounds brand new..
nice review man! i’m picking up an HTS 5100 today and you just solidified my choice. thank you sir.
Glad I could help!
I have one and I wish it had a replaceable power cable that cable is a little too long but it's 14AWG so it's correctly rated for 15AMPs. Ironically it's probably that best product they have ever made.
Man, look at all those relays.
And ferrite coils
Bought an HTS 1600 new with our LCD TV and audio system about ten years ago. Love it - thoroughly agree with your review!
I got the monster power pro 2500 and Ive still ben tryna figure out the difference between the analog filter sockets and the digital filter sockets.... Ive used up both my digital slots and only have analog slots available. would it be harmful to plug a computer into an analog power filter slot?
No the only difference is that the digital slots have a little bit more high-frequency filtering because Electronics tend to have more high frequency noise than analog otherwise you can plug in anything anywhere you like
@@CatusMaximus Thank you for clearing this up :)
I have 2 of those they use to light up the clean power led now both don't? What can cause them to not show clean power?
I have one bought new, and it will trip at around 109 volts.
What does it mean when some of the ten outlets in the back don't have any power? I have had mine for about 7 years and it's driving me nuts.
Anyone?
Great video. I have the Monster Power Pro 3500. I noticed that on the plug that goes into the wall, it flashes amber. Is this normal, or is it telling me I have an issue? The lights on the front panel are not showing any kind of an issue.
Question for you:
I purchased 2 model HTUPS 2700 from an estate sale, both had an "ERR" when I plugged in, removed the panel and the batteries were missing.
Purchased a set of 2 batteries to try 1 of them.
Seems to work nicely, however when I unplug from the wall, the abnormal voltage light comes on and it shows 190 volts before shutting off.
Is this normal?
50 watt power draw on its own?
Not sure how long this video has been up but I do have a question.
I live in the mid south and get a lot of lightning. Is this thing repairable if it gets hit hard enough to take out one of those thingys u were talking about?
Hi ! Can u tell me ? It can use in Australia with 220-240 v ? Thanks a lot
I have same one … for years!
How do you power off the monster power conditioner
Press the power button which does a cascading power down
I have one of these hooked up to each of my TV's. They are awesome and improve video and audio quality of my TVs. People don't believe me when i tell them about them.
Hello I’m looking to get an extension cord for this . How many amps does this put out?
You would probably want to use a 12 gauge Maybe even 10 gauge if it's going to be over 50'
@@CatusMaximus I
Going to need to use a 100 footer. I don’t know if it’s practical but it’s the only option I have . Is it safe to do that to run all the equipment on?
Audio equipment, the cost of the R&D budget is weighted heavily on the case and marketing wordsmith. Less so with the off the shelf circuit components.
the first 3600 with only 2960 joule rare ?
Does this cut on all components hooked up at the same time or do they come on / off at separate times?
Separate times
love my hts 1600 finds.. great stuff for the buck
Good review 👍 thank you
Wish we could swap the AC cable
.5 amps isn't 50watts as the power factor of this device is low. I'd measure it externally if you really think it pulls that much with no load connected.
I have one that does seem odd reading .5 amp with nothing connected. I have a pre/pro, power amp ( 4x320 watt class D ), CD player, PS4 connected to mine on standby all of that only shows .4AMPs. While all on PS4 just playing UA-cam is like 1.1amps , gaming/movies it like 1.4~1.5, PS4 off just playing a CD is .8 AMPs.
That was great, thanks!
Who can repair one I have the Pro 2600 but lost power to 4 of the outlets on back_
Your Voice sounds like,
The guy who Plays the Scientist on the Simpsons ....
Lmaooo😂
Searching for some guidance to fix my 3600 MKII, I came across your video. You sound very knowledgable about the guts in this sort of component, so maybe you have some thoughts on what might be wrong with mine.
I came across this video ua-cam.com/video/gWrj2zMnjgg/v-deo.html that shows the same thing as happening to mine. I had replaced some gear and moved some gear around with no issues. A couple nights later, I heard a buzzing/humming noise that sounded like it was coming from the 3600. Turns out it was not coming from the 3600; it was coming from an LED lightbulb in my ceiling light. However, in researching the noise, I touched the "Dimmer" knob on the 3600, and the unit died and started the clicking cycle like in that video. (I wonder if some sort of static discharge triggered something or if there is some sort of short in that knob???) Anyhow, I read the various comments in the link I provided and decided to order those black relays. They arrived today, and I replaced them. This did not fix the issue. Ugh. I think I might try to replace the white relays now??? The clicking definitely is coming from one of those, but I think that is part of the start-up process anyway, right? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
that is not a right angle cord. a right angle would be 90 degrees. that's a 45 degree cord
I recently removed mine from my system after it had been there for years. I call it a performance choke, not a power conditioner. The Monster Power HTS-xxxx gizmos are shit. Don't buy one, don't use one and you'll be better off.
Without real measurements from an EMI Dirty Electricity Meter in mV, this review is worthless and is just based on personal opinion. Cleaning up "dirty electric" is usually negligible to zero in the vast majority of so-called power conditioners.
Why audio equipment is using these unit and not TV or any other electronic? Because there are useless. Only audiofool need this stuff!