Automotive A/C Basics: System Recharge
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- Опубліковано 20 чер 2020
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - Авто та транспорт
YES!! I was trying to find a leak in my system and saw your suggestion of the o rings in the compressor. Sure enough I see the UV dye leaking from the spot you said! Thank you!!! I almost bought a new compressor!
When I used to do HVAC work in the repair depot for Sears we used a heated charge cylinder. It made the process nice and fast.
great video! thanks for making this
Great job!
very good video, technical content, helps a lot
Glad you enjoyed it. 👍🏻
Although you can't do anything if your system leaks refrigerant into the atmosphere, I think is the right and lawful thing to do to try to pollute as little as possible. Wish you were in Cincinnati...
Well done! Be cool if you showed the folks what the gauges read & what is normal for your current temperature & humidity!
Coming!
Mr S looking fresh with those glasses
Milwaukee fog-free safety glasses. Lol
I had my ac system on my 02' h6 outback open to the air for a while without the suction hose on (the ports were blocked off). It worked perfectly fine before i recovered the system to take the suction line out for space for a rotated turbo setup, but now i have a line that fits and want ac back. I have an accumulator on hand to replace the old one, but my question is how do i know how much oil i need to put back in the system after replacing the accumulator? I also am not sure if there was any oil that came out when the system was recovered
Yup I’ve got that special gm high side a/c port socket in my toolbox, it was a lil bit difficult getting it off a tool truck because there’s no writing on this socket
Yeah, got mine from mastercool.
We are so spoiled, I remember the old 2-55
A/C system in my 1977 Chevy Monza 2+2 hatchback!
(That was open both windows and drive 55 mph on the Interstate) !!
Good Video!
I've owned plenty of vehicles with 2by60 and 4by60 A/C systems in my life. 😂 😂 😂
Remember there was a vent on the floor at the driver and passenger side, you just opened that and it worked fine. I'd be happy if they still had those because I'm ok with the car interior temp being whatever the hot day is. The problem is opening a window is too windy and if you're on gravel it's way to dusty, so you can't open the windows anymore and a car is way to hot with them closed and no ventilation. So we aren't spoiled we just have no other choice
not bad video but it would of been nice to see the gauges as you were recharging as that was the main point of tuning to your video so I can compare my reading to yours
I have to recharge my system after an accident (sigh). Are the Schrader valve cores for a Subaru '06 Forester readily available from a parts store or would you recommend ones from the dealership? I plan on sourcing them, i am just curious if feel the part is worth paying OEM/dealership prices.
E: Do you recommend or not putting lubricant in the system?
If its leaking its venting to atmosphere so as far as anyone is concerned it leaked all out sorry.
yup shit happens! better luck next time lol
Every time you get into a front accident that's really severe it all goes out anyway
@@douchebag4057 $2000 in repairs from an accident (my fault) - don't i know it.
Hi. I am a subscriber. Been watching your videos and I have a 2014 Subaru cross track XV Limited. These cars seem to have AC leak issues. I had it in the shop like three years ago. Leaking EVAP CORE. Now I have no more warranty and have some O-rings leaking. Still have pressure so now I’m looking to purchase a good AC recovery pump and tank. Do you have a recommended pump brand. Thanks August
Had my radiator changed and now the a/c stopped blowing cold on driver side. Could they have messed something up I had it serviced less than 5k miles prior at Subaru. Or does this mean I have a leak. Was almost 200 bucks to have subaru. Dont want to take it in of I just need a recharge. There is a slight consistent hiss when the a/c turns on.
Can you advise on low and high side pressure since the manifold wasn't in the frame? FSM states 18-28psi low and 213-242psi high. I'm trying to figure out if I should split the difference between the ranges or is it temperature humidity variance?
Ambient temperature and humidity affect the high and low pressure.
Hi Mr. Subaru, I will be replacing all the A/C components (Evaporator, Condenser, Compressor, flushing the lines, etc) on my ‘05 Subaru Outback XT. When it comes to adding PAG oil to the system, is the oil added when the components are installed, then the vacuum is pulled on the system? I’m concerned the vacuum may also pull the PAG oil. Also, do I add half the PAG oil into the compressor and the other half into the evaporator and a bit on the lines? If you can please clarify on this.. Thank you in advance.
At 21:50 when you said that the "pressures look good" - what should those be in round numbers? Thanks for this video, I will be getting after the a/c system in my '06 Forester with this info.
They vary depending on the ambient temperature and humidity. Low usually around 30psi high 180-200ish.
@@MrSubaru1387 OK, great, and many thanks for these informative videos.
The ac in my 06 wrx did not work when I got the car. I changed the dryer and pulled a deep vacuum for about a hour. Let it sit for a day and it held vacuum. I went to put in freon and it would not draw in but one can. We determined the compressor was weak. It did blow somewhat cool and the compressor did cycle on and off. I put in a new remanufactured compressor (yes, I added more oil) and repeated the same process. This time it did take in the required amount and had nice ice cold air. Now for my problem. The compressor will not cycle on and off. The ac clutch is not stuck either. And with the ac running, my car starts to over heat at idle and at speed. The condenser core is extremely hot! I know it will get hot but, that is way to hot.
Both fans are working as they should also. Bad pressure switch? Clogged condenser?
Any info will be greatly appreciated.
I have a 2016 Subaru Outback and the clutch on the front of my compressor does not look anything like the clutches in any of your videos and it is always spinning. My low side pressure is the same as when the car is off. It never fluctuates and always reads high, approximately 90psi. I can not hear the clutch click or engage when I press the ac button, but I do notice the rpm's changing. The ac contantly blows hot and never cools at all.
Is there a low pressure switch? is that why the clutch wouldn’t engage until it had some type of charge?
Would it be a good idea to replace the valves and o-rings at the same time on an old vehicle?
Normally, no to o-rings, yes to schrader valves. But, if you have a Subaru, mid 90s-10s it could be a good idea to replace the o-rings on the fittings at the compressor, since they're known to leak.
No mention of R1234yf? Different connectors?
Thanks for your video... I too wonder though about PAG oil - is it not necessary to install a certain amount? If so, how and when do you suggest?
For a normal recharge, you shouldn't need to. If you replace a component, say a/c compressor, etc then you need to add oil. Usually you add oil directly into the component, but, you can add oil in to the yellow charge hose before adding refrigerant.
My ac compressor on my 2002 WRX went bad, do you know of any good aftermarket one I could get? Since a new oem one is close to $700 from the dealership.
Should be very easy to find a used one from a junkyard (www.car-part.com) or ebay. You can also use parts.subaru.com to look up part numbers if that helps.
Quick question: at around 20:40 he revs the engine and I’ve never seen that done from the engine bay. I’ve been looking all over UA-cam and can’t find a solid explanation of this and was hoping someone could clarify what how he does this
The pedal is connected via a cable to the throttle body - when you push the pedal it pulls the cable and opens the throttle. He's just doing the same thing with his hand.
Hello! Thanks for the video. I have replaced the o-rings and Schrader valves on my 2017 Premium WRX. I verified that the system holds zero after the vacuum with those changes. I having a problem with adding freon to the system. Once I connect the can of 134a to the yellow line, tap the can, purge the air, then open the low side the pressure rises about 70 - 80 Psi. I hear the freon enter the Yellow line but I don't see the liquid in the view window, even after shaking the can for a little while. for some reason, I don't think the freon is getting into the car's AC system. (I have all the equipment you're using in the video). Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance.
If your compressor isn't turning on it won't pull it into the system.
It seems you are ALWAYS trying to beat a storm :)
Question: If you never identified an obvious leak, then why was the system empty of refrigerant? How do AC systems lose the refrigerant? Nice vid, thanks Brah.
Apparently the old schrader valves were the source of the leak. I recovered the car today with the recovery machine, still had the 1.5lb charge.
how did you remove the schrader valves and install new ones? special tool? thanks!
If the system is empty you can probably use any Schrader valve tool with a shaft longer than the one in a typical 4-way Schrader valve stem core tool. But if you want one that can change the core without draining the refrigerant search for an automotive ac Schrader valve removal tool. Here's a video demonstrating it: ua-cam.com/video/wkPxxUO_40Q/v-deo.html
I have a 2020 Crosstrek with the stupid fast idle until warmed up. Do you think it's to hard on the CVT if you shift into drive when RPM is at 1800. I'm absolutely flabbergasted with your knowledge. Much appreciated.
I advise letting the engine run until the blue temp light goes out. That's what I do in my 2013 Crosstrek. When the blue temp light goes out rpm drops to normal rates.
MrSubaru1387 thanks for your response. I have been waiting until it idols down blue light off. But do you think that puts stress on the CVT belt. I’m like you, i’m not a fan of CVT either. Mine jerks sometimes when slowing down or accelerating. Any thoughts thanks.
What are the normal pressure ranges on high and low sides of AC system?
low side range is 1-5 high side is 5-10 🥴🤣🤣
Is there enough oil in the system to where you don't have to add any?
Usually you don't need to add oil unless you're replacing a component, or the system was damaged/open/ruptured and oil was lost.
If replace the expansion valve.need add the oil? and No freon in the system for several months. thank you
I have had to replace 4 wheel bearings on my 2014 Forester which has 120,000 miles. 3 of then on the back right wheel. I think i am not going to buy another Subaru. Is this normal???? I never had to replace any wheel bearings on any other cars i owned and i usually bought new one at 150,000 miles.
Normal to replace a wheel bearing after that many miles. If they were replaced with lower quality aftermarket ones and/or not properly installed, then they could definitely wear faster and go out again. You're not supposed to use impact wrenches to install the pre-assembled bearings/hubs since it can jolt them from their spec (since they are just pressed in and not locked with a circlip or anything). I would guess between a combination of lower quality parts and less than perfect installation caused the same corner to need replacing. Could also be an alignment thing, maybe the alignment is off? Overall I agree though it is very unusual for multiple wheel bearing replacements to be needed
So the red cap on the line it to empty the system and the blue to fill.???
No.
What about oil in it?
I know it's against the law, but GUARANTEED most shade tree mechanics just let it go into the atmosphere. Just sorta one of those things.
One question I do have on this though; what does the manifold do that a hose on a recharge can won't do?
Let's you see both high and low side pressures. Seeing low side pressure alone isn't enough info.
@@MrSubaru1387 So it's more of a diagnostic tool then, as opposed to simply filling the system? What does knowing the high side actually do? Is it a matter of parts replacement at that point? I clearly know little about using a manifold for any AC work. Hahaa
I can imagine the cost on a newer Subie with the R1234 refrigerant!
R134A is compatible with the new stuff
No it isn't. R-134A and R-1234YF are not compatible.
They already have refill cans of 1234 i laughed as I assumed they replaced 134a due to owners doing their own work.
Where do you get your schraeder valves?
Auto parts stores.
thanks for your video. You should get hazard pay
You're welcome. 👍🏻
I heard the old white g.o.p. Congress men say "laws are made to be broken" 🥴🤣🤣
Catch Me If You Can Copers.
Against the law but leaks do it all the time. I just bleed system off if over charged. Said an done.