HOW TO: MAKE YOUR OWN POWER STINGER! | SAVE MONEY ON CABLES!
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- Опубліковано 13 лип 2019
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John Simmons this is A Great Video! Thx u
I just watched a video of you teaching me how to do stuff I know how to do already. Still watched the whole thing haha. I love your videos. keep em coming!
lol same here!!
This is one of the best tutorials I have seen on how to do this!
I too am not a certified electrician but I would like to put out there that is box should only be used indoors never for out doors because that box would shock you if it gets wet. For outdoors you need a sealed box with rubber gaskets or use gfi plugs
Hmmm. Only one plug needs to be GFCI, and you'd want it downstream on the stinger if putting in more than one box. Correct?
Like I said before I am not a electrician but I do know about electric. I have worked with touring companies we had two versions of stringers when ones with no gfci but in a sealed box because if you need power up high you don’t want to mess with gfci in a box 20’ 30’ feet up on the air. Then we also provided power off the generator for vendors and those are gfci.
You can use a box called a "wet conditions junction box" to make this with a plastic cover that has flaps to cover the outlets.
@@Endmass yes correct, if you're plugging this box into a circuit that already has GFCI then you're good to go
Great job. Been working out and it shows looking good
Thanks a lot. Very well explained and I will be trying this out.
Been waiting for this!!!
Love the video, I’m all about repurposing materials my 9 - 5 job is commercial Hvac so I know a little about electricity so I reuse left over materials from jobs. The only minor thing I can say, on your crispers you will notice engraved non and insulated that’s for the prongs you used with the plastic jacket is considered insulated and it makes a better crimp on them. Not that you can’t do it they way you did, I have broken many connectors doing that way. Love the videos, always informative you’re the man
Excellent video dude...I'm going to make me 4 of these tomorrow.
I used to build power boxes for my high school music DJing equipment when on the road. I could get them done on the fly when needed more power options
So, this past Saturday, i had a wedding gig that i had to m.c. There was no planner so all the logistics were handled by me and the groom basically. Your video on how to prep yourself to relax and handle the job really helped me. everything from chewing gum to not rehearsing to much helped me more than you know. Thank You.
I have 2 I built in the winter....love them!
Looking good bro I see you getting fit 😎💪🏾
Great video! I build all of my own power cables as well. But, as an industrial Electrican as my full time job, I'd like to offer my opinion. Those receptacles are 15a. I would recommend a commercial grade receptacle. A good brand would be a Pass and Seymour CR5362. It's a heavy duty 20 amp load rated receptacle.
Another tip would be on the box itself. Like the other commenter said, this is for INDOOR use only. Also I would use a ground screw/wire and ground the box as well. If you wanted one for outdoor use, you should use 1 GFCI receptacle and load the CR5362 beside it. Install them in what is called a 2 gang Bell Box. And a weather rated flip cover. Also use a weather rated, S.O. cord grip box connector.
Hope this helps someone. Good video, and great idea to make them yourself!
Since your are actually an electrician (or at least claim to be), you can probably help answer my question. Would the center screw used to attach the cover to the receptacle to the cover not ground the box? The center screw ties directly to the ground bar in the receptacle itself correct?
@@DjWooPig Okay, first of all I'm going to forget that you are calling me a liar about being an electrician. Because I really like you and your videos. I think you're a good person and a good business man. Anyway, the center screw, especially on a 15 amp receptacle is basically just for holding on the plastic coverplate, like in your house. The 2 tabs on the top and bottom of the receptacle that you cut off are for holding it to the double duplex RS cover . The little tabs that you bend away have a threaded hole, you take the 6-32 screw that came on the receptacle and screw it through the front of the cover, through the hole in the receptacle, the one you cut in half, and thread it through that little metal tab from the cover. This give the receptacle some rigidity for plugging in and out over time. That center screw won't hold up in time. Eventually you will go to plug something in and it will strip out and the receptacle will fall into the box. Second of all, to get technical, the center screw is a size 6-32. Yes, it will still read out on a meter or plug tester that it is grounded. But according to the NEC, the national electrical code, a 6-32 is not rated for a 20amp ground fault current. However a 10-32 size screw, or a ground screw is. For example, if one of the hot wires from your receptacle comes off the screen and touches the box, that fault current will blow apart or melt that 6-32 screw before the breaker even trips. A 10-32 screw with 3 threads of contact, is physically large enough to withstand that fault current and will trip the breaker. I'm not trying to be a prick, I'm just trying to help. I'm sorry if I came across as a know it all.
Nate Flanigan I never called you a liar. People say they are lots of things on the internet but don’t have any merit to back it up. I was genuinely curious because I have been told that the center screw is a grounding source. I even took one of my outlets I used in the video and found it was attached to the ground bar. I’m not saying I know everything, or that I’m an electrician, just curious as to why the ground screw in the middle can’t be considered a ground when metering it out. The screws on the box cover seem like they are bigger that the ones I I didn’t use. I could be wrong on that one though. It’s all good, you gave me the answer I was asking for.
@@DjWooPig you're right, the screws holding the cover on are bigger. They're 8-32. And ya I understand about the internet thing. I was just offering my opinion and knowledge. Not trying to tell anyone that they're wrong, or insulting them. Just telling what I do on a daily basis.
Nate Flanigan cool. shoot me an email, We May have to collaborate on some entertainment and electricity related.
Greatly appreciate the info!!!
good video needed to learn how to make those cables thank you bro
I build a bunch of them, but I made the power box with shorter cables, so I can just connect it to my 100, 50, 25, 10 ft, extensions, most of them are built into a closed box
Thank you so much, for this video. I am going out and make me some cable.
Thanks for the power tip
Everything is right except for one important thing: you NEED to ground the grounding conductor to the metal box. Get some grounding screws and it screws into the bottom of a metal box.
Great video. One thing I do in addition to what you show is I spray my boxes with Plasti Dip paint. The rubberized coating stands up to lots of abuse and when done in black, hides them on stage a little better.
Fantastic! Thank you so much brother!
Wondering why you did not ground the metal box? I don't think I'd use these out on a job since I'm not an electrician and the liability would be great if something happened...though I have made them before for home use.
The metal box should be grounded by the tabs that got cut off. Those tabs also add two more points of support for the outlets, making them a lot more secure and resistant to rough treatment. The ears are designed so they can be easily be bent off with metal fatigue, but the tabs for the screw holes for ground & mechanical support should _always_ be kept!
The box is grounded by the center screw/bolt from the outlet
made mines after seeing this video 1.5 years ago!!!! had to go BACK to it for reference...lmao Good shit!!!
I like your systems man👍👍👍
I had never heard the term 'stinger' refer to a power box before.
Thanks for enlightening us.
These 4 gang stingers are great! You can also put a 2 gang in the middle and end of a cable and have a common circuit for stage left/stage right power.
Love the channel bro. But for this project I suggest putting both hot side together in the middle of the box, if the punch hole disks on the sides get pushed in by chance it can’t rest on the hot wire and make the metal box live. Also I would ground the box too as another safety measure.
Support this guy he goes out his way
Am I the ONLY one that was distracted by the kitten!? Think John needs a new mascot!! (or at least hold the cat up to the camera)!
Can also look at something like L14-20P (single phase common neutral 120/240V 20A Plug) to two (dual) 120V NEMA 5-20R (or -15R for 15 Amp only) outlets and make use of that cut/unused red wire. Most venues with 120/240V outlets/drops probably have wiring and electricians as apart of the rental contract. So the single 120V NEMA 5-15R/20R plug to a quad as in this video is the most likely scenario you will encounter. [[ The way I remember the part number L for Locking, 1 for single phase, 4 prong = L14 ]]
P.S.> good practice to bond the incoming ground to the box/case first, THEN two pigtails grounds from same ground spot on box to the receptacles grounding lugs.
That's a good question. What you describe is a lot like an RV hookup or "shore power" for boats. Although you _could_ do that in a home environment, in a larger industrial venue you're more likely to encounter 3-phase power. So you're not likely to have much opportunity to use split phase outside the home. Unless you get a super deal on 12/4, 12/3 will probably always be cheaper, so I'd just get the right cable for the job.
There are two kinds of 3-phase, delta and wye. Delta does not use a neutral conductor, and can make due with 4 conductors, but to be prepared I'd make my multi-conductor cables 5-way so they're compatible with all systems. Otherwise there's no need to buy more copper than you need.
@@StringerNews1 Yeah I wasn't discussing 3-phase, but it is always good to understand connecting across phases yields different voltages (208v) from typical single phase. In a corporate/business with 3-phase and 208v at some up stream panel, the electrical engineer on site (and usually available as apart of the contract) would handle the 120V drops (via a transformer downstream 208v->120v) and again back to the most common scenario and purpose for the video.
Side comment , I am glad to see somebody else describing/using "split phase" (120/240V using a center tapped transformer a pole upstream) which is just part of the upstream single phase from the pole instead dual to two phases (they are really more similar to polarity changes than a phase change).
@@DouglasMarsh9s You're not likely to have an electrical engineer on site because engineers cost a lot of money and are only useful for designing systems, not deploying them. 208VAC is the leg-leg voltage for low voltage 3-phase in the US. 120VAC is the leg-neutral voltage of a _wye_ 3-phase system, which is the only 3-phase that a company switch should be connected to. The house electrician should know how the secondary is wired (most every transformer has the ability to be configured as delta or wye), but I wouldn't expect custom work unless it's a really big act at a really big venue.
3-phase is transmitted in delta form because only 3 wires are needed, and that uses the least amount of metal. In industrial buildings where 3-phase motors use most of the power, it may stay delta all the way to the load because the motors don't need a neutral, so again it saves metal. Even a factory will have one wye transformer to provide 120VAC to offices and other things that need regular wall outlets. In office and residential buildings you're likely to see all wye transformers. (Wye can still run 3-phase motors for elevators & HVAC, while providing 120VAC outlets.) Larger facilities may have a mixture, and at different voltages.
If you're going to a venue that used to be an industrial building, it's important to make sure that the electrical facilities inside the building were converted for the new usage. If the old transformers are still configured as delta and there are not 5-wire wye circuits in the house, you're not going to be able to run 120V gear from that source! I'd say it's more than a little over-optimistic to believe that the house will supply a bunch of costly and inefficient 208-120V step-down transformers; even if they did that's a lot of extra connections to fail. If the house isn't wired to provide enough 120V service, I'd look for another venue or for a source of AC power that I controlled. Better to hire a generator than deal with a venue owner who's unprepared to put on a show.
"Split phase" is just colloquial for single phase that's split (voltage divider is the more precise term) in the middle to produce lower voltage branches. The problem with this system is that voltage dividers are subject to asymmetrical currents making the voltage division asymmetrical. This is why the NEC limits current draw in split phase circuits. in a nutshell that's why your 15A circuit at home is never supposed to see more than 12A of continuous load, and why 20A circuits are discouraged in the home. That's also why there's no such limitation with a power distribution system using 5-wire 3-phase wye. There are no voltage dividers, so you can run a 20A circuit right up to 20A no worries. Of course that only works if your wiring is up to snuff. You can't use home wiring rules on an industrial job.
BTW I've learned that some places have 2-phase, where one phase is 90° out of phase with the other. Philadelphia has this system in places. It's ancient, dating back to the 19th century. I've never seen it myself, but it's worth knowing such systems exist somewhere.
Hey man. So there's no need to ground it to the box itself? And have you had any problems with them at all?
Great! John, how do you handle venues that do not have a commercial power service for your distro? Do you source multiple circuits via extensions cords?
Yes u do
do you make your own iec-xlr combo cables?
Your forgetting to wrap the outlets with electrical tape to ensure no inside connection with anything bad. Safety first and it’s a cheap helper. Only for indoor use also. That’s an open box.
I am DJ and Electrician. The box you made is not grounded. It's important to ground the box in case a live wire inside becomes loose and touches the box. With the box grounded that would cause a short circuit and the breaker to jump. In your case not having grounded the box the circuit would remain active and if you or a client touch the box you can get an electrical shock or worse get electrocuted.
The cat 😍
NEC 250 4a Metal boxes shall be grounded and bonded.
Thanks for advice I am watching from India(andhra pradesh)
Have a look at wiring diagram for 240v
How is this different/better than just running a heavy duty extension cord with a surge protector on the end??
x2
Lube wire where it stabs through edison connector clamp housing half prior to splitting and stripping cable. This prevents you from fighting and having to cut the weather gland. 2. Invest in flush cut pliers. 3. Thank you for having proper crimping pliers. 4. Always run a ground wire to your metallic box (regardless that it is “grounded via the center screw on outlet to cover.” If that was a non metallic box that would be a different story. 5. The parts you cut off each end of the outlet has a screw hole for further attachment to lid.
I would also add that the crimper has two dies on the jaws. One is for insulated connectors, the other is for uninsulated connectors. He used the wrong die. Those “notches” in the connector will cause the insulator to pull off the metal connector over time.
Can these be made with powercon connectors? Never seen any in the wild.
yes you can, i've done them in all powercon for some of the stinger
Bruh I’m not gonna lie I thought that cat was a RAT 😂
Just fyi this is half wrong. Look up SO cord connectors. Also look up OSHA rules for metal power distribution boxes.
I work at a place that got all electric and plumbing stuff
You need to ground the box. Our use plugs with grounding straps built-in
The outlets are grounding the box with it’s center bolt/screw.
Here in germany nobody builds zhem because it is cheaper to buy them than to have the time to build them. Also it is not so legal to use them if you are not an electrician
Hay I know this is an old video but did you see the mouse that made it way by
Lol that’s my mouse catcher shop cat
!! Please GROUND the box !!! Love your videos but that won't fly if inspected. Yes...it's contact grounded with the plate screws but not %100 safe and not correct. After a few years of use
if that hot wire gets loose...and a plate screw is loose that box can be energized! Best to everyone! Love your positive videos.
The box is grounded by the center screw/bolt from the outlet
Should you ground the box🤔
The box is grounded by the center screw/bolt from the outlet in this instance
Need to ground the box. Especially since the cable clamp is metal. Those are dangerous.
Love your stuff though.
The box is grounded by the center screw/bolt from the outlet
I want to be your friend what shall I do
Great idea but be careful using this boxes on union gigs .
This is nifty, but I’ll spend the extra on a power conditioner.
Stringers and conditioners are both essential.
In all honesty, and I do mean this in the most respectful way, the title should be changed to "How NOT to build your own stingers."
Electrical in US is so sketchy damn
Why would you need something like this if your cables had piggybacks? *laughs in Australian*
Is THE Cats Name: Edison Also???? AND Why does this Cat show up @ 4:20 ..... he's actually a Roadie?!
Hahaha he name is actually LEKO!
You didn’t ground the box though....
I commented on that as well but before reading your comment. Yes, the focus on recent NEC changes puts more focus on proper grounding order. Ground the box first so if all else fails, there is a safety path back to ground. If the box is floating and a hot wire come in contact with the metal box, it is NOW dangerous to touch. This happened at 2018 NWPAS (North West Pinball and Arcade Show) where two machines side by side had live mains between the cases. One thing the electricians did THIS 2019 year was test all equipment against earth ground early on. I have two posted videos (on in 360 VR) of the venue before opened to public!
The box is grounded by the center screw/bolt from the outlet in this instance
BTW, if you use isolated ground outlets you will not have ground loops in your system when you put the "handi-box" on the ground or on concrete floors.
Stick to DJing
I will, I promise!
Hey what kinda accent is that bruh?
Boxes with knockouts are illegal for portable cables. USE PROFESSIONAL EQUIPMENT
I second this. 40 years ago when I made 4 boxes, it was out of financial necessity. Today you can buy professional stage boxes made by Furman and others at reasonable prices online. Rolling your own is a handy skill to have in a pinch when there's no other option, but shouldn't be your first plan. Even then I'd tin the stranded wire ends and _never_ use spade/fork lugs because they're sketchy as hell.
Sooo.... the cops are coming? Right?
Stop being judgmental, define professional equipment, if I make it or a store makes it , it still was made. By the way my cords are bought construction grade. But that doesn’t make them pro .
Max G umm construction grade store bought mr maxi G... I didn’t make it I paid for it. Stop trying to degrade me when I never said nothing to you. The only professional equipment you probably handled are Dez. I respect a guy who is trying and they have to go that route and make what they need to get the job done. It’s clear you don’t know what it is to make thing and do it right because you don’t have creativity. If it’s done right there isn’t anything wrong.
Also, SJO isn't legal either. I believe the "J" means entertainment purposes only, not professional. If an insurance company ever got involved, only SO, SOO or SOOW is covered.