Converting a Surge Protector / Power Strip to Neutrik PowerCON TRUE1 for Daisychainability
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2024
- A guide to adding a Neutrik PowerCON TRUE1 panel connector to a Furman SS-6B power strip to allow daisy-chaining of multiple strips. UPDATE: Monoprice has begun selling what looks to be the exact same power strip. Search for "Heavy Duty 6 Outlet Metal Surge Power Box" on Monoprice's website.
Neutrik TRUE1 Panel Jack: NAC3PX ($9.61, Full Compass)
Power Strip: Furman SS-6B ($27.50, Amazon)
Alternate Power Strip: Monoprice Product# 35100 ($18.50, Monoprice)
Tools needed: Screwdrivers, wire cutters, utility knife, 29mm sheet metal punch, Dremel with cut-off bit, drill bit set, drill, electrical crimp connectors, crimping tool, heat shrink, 1/8" by 3/8" rivets, rivet gun.
these should be for sale I would definitely purchase a few from you awesome vid
Great job, will be thinking about this for my own projects. I prefer True1 to IEC connectors for the locking functionality.
Good video. FYI you can get black rivets, from your favorite online retailer of choice. Also you can get insulated faston tabs but heatshrink is fine too. The protection on those strips is pretty basic though, not much better that your average wal-mart $5 el-cheapo plastic strip, but at least it has a metal case. I'd rip out the in-built surge protecion and run the feeder to a better device, Furman makes some really good ones as do surge-x and others.
Overall great video though!, thanks!
I have no use for one of these, but I watched the entire video. 10/10 was better than Cats.
You're the best kind of person!
So glad I found this UA-cam video. This is exactly what I need for the stage. Thanks for the video. I'm struggling now to get a 29mm hole punch, but I've got the Furman strips and ready to assemble.
I used the search "29mm sheet metal punch" on eBay. I don't fully remember but it might have come from a UK seller.
halo.. this can use for guitar amp like (kemper stage OR line6 helix floor board) ???
Nice mod, but there is a limit to how many of these you would want to daisy chain together. The feeder cable in the first unit in the chain will be bearing the total load of everything in the chain. And the Neutrik connector in the first unit will be bearing the total load of everything downstream.
Correct, but the Powercons are rated at 20A, which is more than most US wall outlets, so no issues.
Thanks for the video! I normally work with audio but rarely with power so I def appreciate the effort you put in to this.
I'm curious how you set up the guide hole for the 2nd time you do the knockout? Do you tape the paper to the box? Just eyeball it and poke a screwdriver through the center to make a scratch? Any info would be appreciated
I totally skipped that, didn't I?!? I do one of two things: Drill directly through the paper template (after taping or really believing in myself as a template-holder) OR if I am reusing the template from a previous box, I make a silver Sharpie (any marker would work) mark through the existing drill hole in the paper. It's not scientific, but it has gotten me by on these boxes.
I should re-stress the importance of making sure your printer has not scaled the template, though. That was a dumb mistake on my first attempt!
Very nice! Love it
This is great. Thank you.
Where did you order the 15/16th (24mm) knockout punch? The price you quoted on those is good. So far a new one I found cost $54.
I got mine from eBay. The seller I used is no longer on the site, but a search for "Sheet Metal Punch 29mm" just now returned very similar pricing.
As far as the firman power strip. Do you recommend it for a good power strip for Musicians?
Hello! I'm not a musician myself; I'm on the sound department side of things, but I've had great luck with every Furman product I've dealt with over the years. These power strips are nice due to their metal enclosure and the better-than-a-cheap-powerstrip filtering and protection. It's always nice to have an extra layer of protection between the wall and your expensive equipment. The spacing of the receptacles is also much more convenient than the all-in-a-row power strips. Hope that helps!
What size crimp connectors for the true 1 spades ?
On Neutrik's spec sheet they specify the following: Flat tabs for FASTON® 6.35 mm x 0.8 mm (1/4” x 0.03”) and the Faston crimps are affordable and fit perfectly with these. If you don't have any on hand (like me) or you prefer using an insulated connector you will need to experiment a bit to find one that works. I don't remember the exact size I used in this video (sorry!) but it looks like it was just a normal yellow crimp connector.
This would be a great video if the furman wasn't surge protected. It is not recommended to daisy chain surge protectors. Doing so puts strain against the circuits and causes the surge protectors to work against each other...putting any equipment plugged in to them at a surge risk.
However...if only the 1st box in the chain is surge protected, it would protect all boxes down the chain...so long as you bypass the surge protection on the other furmans.
Hello,
Thanks for the feedback! The nice thing about the PowerCON True1 I/O connectors is that the power flows through the connector and is tapped off by the Furmans - not through the Furmans. This way, each Furman gets its own tap from the power source. Because of the way these connectors work, a daisy chain can be created, but each surge protector works individually. I can switch off any of the Furmans in line and the other ones both upstream and downstream keep working because they aren't linked. If you view the NAC3PX (the TRUE1 I/O connector) on Neutrik's website you should be able to visualize what I'm saying.
I hope this makes you feel better about the safety of this idea. We're not using these boxes for anything high-draw; usually USB chargers, laptop power supplies, external hard drives, etc. If I have misunderstood your comment please let me know.
Ah... I see! I completely overlooked that the combined connector simply passes power down the chain rather than through the furman circuitry of each box. Thank you for your clarification. A-1 on this idea! Thanks for sharing.
nico strings good info
i missed how this works. i with the video was more in depth here. like is there a rocker switch to change from surge to no surge? did he solder or change the internal so that it can jump across the surge skipping it? is this box auto-sensing or something? around the 10:15 mark you can see the wires being hooked up, and they look to me like they go straight to the surge circuitry, and not bypass. or maybe i just can't tell
halo.. this can use for guitar amp like (kemper stage OR line6 helix floor board) ???
Sure could! These are really just regular Furman power strips with a swapped cable. The only thing I've changed is how I plug it it.
pfjanky how much?
@@BagusWibisono I don't sell these, I made this video as a how-to in case you wanted to make your own. Sorry!
pfjanky Work oh no dude, I just want to know for the market price.. This unit is great for guitar amp?
@@BagusWibisono Gotcha - if you read the other comments there have been some people questioning the quality of the surge protection circuitry in these units; they're really not much different than cheap power strips. I use them because the metal case allows me to modify them to PowerCON. To be honest, if you're looking for power conditioning for your amps I would look into more expensive conditioners from Furman or other brands. The power strip in the video is currently $35 on amazon, and the TRUE1 connectors vary in price from $10-$30.
If you're asking whether you can convert your amp to these connectors, I'm not sure. I'm not too much of an expert on those amps.
I hope this helps! Sorry if I still didn't understand your question!
Does anyone have a link as to where you can find the template drawing?
Hello Stan,
The drawing is available at the bottom of Neutrik's website here: www.neutrik.com/en/product/nac3px
The file I used is the "DRAWING NAC3PX" PDF file but as I say in the video you MUST make sure your printer doesn't scale the image. I had to print mine out at a different % scale to get dimensional accuracy.
Hope that helps!
So, how did you put the rivets in?
I used a cheap handheld pop rivet gun/tool. I think it was a Stanley brand; whatever is on the shelf at your local hardware store. Black pop rivets add style points if your store carries them!
L is for line, not load.
Thanks. Sorry for any confusion.
looks circuit that included MOV is fixed with glue. totally shit
I don't have one in front of me to find out for sure, but yeah, the mounting methods for the circuitry certainly don't look to have an excess of care put into them.
BUT the nice metal enclosure is perfect for this retrofit and I haven't found a better form factor thus far.