Know how many cords I've bought off the shelf that weren't even gauged to the rating it marketed. Started making my own and been handing making lamp cords for wall scones
Hello, can you use this gauge SOOW wire if wish to make up a plug with a 50A male end/plug going to a generator, and 50A female twist lock going to 50A inlet box? Thanks! Love your channel!
Another good rule is to turn the breaker off before plugging/unplugging a cable and locking/unlocking it. There can be an arc if not which will degrade the prongs over time.
Shouldn't be neccessary if things are set up right. Normally you would have a generator interlock switch. With the generator interlock switch set to MAINS, just connect generator cord and there will be no sparks. Then flip the interlock switch to GENERATOR and thing will be running. Before pulling out, just flip interlock switch to MAINS to remove the load from the generator.
I had the same thought. I had the crimp set and everything but didn’t think to use them even though I felt uneasy with the stranded wires in one end of my EVSE pigtail cable. My mindset was that the ferrules were for my 3D printer stuff or terminal blocks in my other electronics work so I never even thought to use them. I will be redoing it immediately!
Make sure you use ferrules designed for the wire size, and not just a pin connector designed for speakers. And don’t try to crimp with regular pliers. Another option is to tin the wires with solder to ‘solidify’ them.
Great instruction! I had to build a 240 volt “extension” cord because our window unit’s cord was too short lasted at least 15 years before we moved. Never an issue
I really love those receptacles where the wire goes straight through rather than wrapping around the screw. My Generlink cable apparently was custom made.
I work in an industrial research facility from the 1900s where the polarity of the outlets is random, so I do this 20-30 times to get the machines spinning in the right direction when we setup a new test plant. Handy design, and I concur, they last forever. We are very hard on these.
@@TomCee53 I suggest your re read the OP he said "Industrial Research facility", So not domestic, He also said the rotation of machines which means he was talking about 3 phase sockets, Probably CeeForm.
That gasket will wear over time. I've found that replacing it with rubber (standard bicycle inner-tube) works well. Unfortunately, most times you won't realize this is necessary until it shorts out.
YUP, I made one after I bought a nice Powerhorse gen running watts 7200 120/240 30 amps from Northern Tool & Equipment. A good rugged cord is safer, you don't want any abrasiveness where wire could be exposed and sitting in a puddle. I have a male fitting at each end, I know it is a widowmaker, BUT after you shut the MAINS OFF and plug into the dryer, knowing its wiring is protected by a 30 amp fused double pull-out or double-breaker you are all set. Silver Cymbal did a VERY professional job here and that cord set will last forever. I am sure he will make sure it is dry when he hangs it up to prevent dry rot. Two thumbs up.
I need to make a L-14 30P to a 10-50P so it plugs into my existing 50A compressor plug. Was given a Black Max 8125 Honda Powered Generator not running. 1 carb clean and governor adjustment later, she's ripping 60 Hertz @ 120v. But the output is a 30A instead of the 20A on my older Generac 4000. Priced parts to make 25ft cable for me as seen in video,, at Menards 10/16/23 for 80 bucks Thanks for the info.
Do i have a generator? No. Do i need this cable? No. Will i ever get a generator and use this? No. Did i enjoy this video while having dinner? Yes absolutely. Great content man keep it up
Stack up on some heavy duty extension cords.Get them asap.Get the ones with a lot of watts that says heavy duty.If you get them now you don't have to worry about getting them incase of an power outage.Try to get the 100ft heavy duty extension cords
Good Video, wonder if price per foot is cheaper in DIY vs pre-fab, DIY definitely better if you need a specific length though. So Ferrules I use when I am working with small wire, helps get a good connection, makes wiring easier, but makes me feel a bit off thinking of using them on something like a 6ga 50amp connection, I would be afraid of loosing some conductivity not having the terminal clamp be able to really "bite into" the cable, and the added resistance of the ferrule itself vs pure copper.
Thanks. I have a ferrule crimp set but didn’t think to use it for my EVSE pigtail even though I felt uneasy with the stranded wire. I’ll go back and add ferrules. :) It’s a Level 2 J1772 EVSE (“240v car charger”) with a 4-prong NEMA 14-30 plug. The Chevrolet Volt only draws 20A so I adapted it to fit a NEMA 6-20 at the workshop using my pigtail. The outlet originally had 240v going to a normal-looking NEMA 5-15 (!) and I didn’t know until it fried my 110v work lights! The lease says I’m not supposed to do anything with 240v but thanks to their negligence I can play dumb, especially since the same EVSE supports 110v (Level 1 charging). On that note, you will get a TON of views if you make a version of this video for that audience. Common household 240v plugs in North America range from NEMA 6-20 to NEMA 14-30 and 14-50… and you don’t typically get to pick what your Level 2 charger has. Heck, some “stealth” Level 2 chargers are sold as Level 1 chargers with a standard 110v NEMA 5-15 plug… one only needs to adapt it for Level 2 charging on 220-240v.
Some of the portable Level 1 EVSEs included with the Chevy Volt were actually stealth Level 2. Ours is one of them but it has a broken J1772 plug. When I can find a replacement J1772 that doesn’t cost as much as another EVSE then I’ll be making a whole set of pigtails for that one. :)
Not sure if this is how everyone does it in America but normally in AUS/NZ we make the Earth or for Americans "ground" slightly longer so in the event the cable gets pulled out from the plug the earth will be the last to lose connection making it safer. Is this something that is considered over there?
Hey just wanted to point out, I think you linked the wrong male plug piece. Your link goes to an L15-30 plug but it should be an L14-30 plug I believe.
Maybe if you just do the very tip to stop it from fraying, but that's it. The problem is the solder easily wicks up the wire and goes past the insulation point, making it difficult to work with. Also, if there's a problem, and the connection gets hot, the solder can melt and make a loose connection even worse. I've done it for a few of these plugs, but ultimately I re-did them with ferrules or just bare copper strands.
We used to do that with a lot of wiring, but there is a risk that the tinning will wick further up the wire and make it hare, then the wire breaks right at the transition between tinned and clean stranded. EDIT: In fact I was watching what the current state of the art is for automotive wiring and they said that a good crimp is preferred and that some folks will not allow tinned wires in motorsports.
I dunno, it seems to me that ferrules are a bad idea in this application. The clamps on the plug are designed to squash the strands flat, making good contact, but ferrules limit the contact area to only two points. I think it's a great idea to use them in applications where the connection is designed for solid wire, but these plugs are designed to use stranded.
Consider this, all residential outlets are wired with solid wire. When you form a hook and screw it down, only the outer edges make contact with the outlets, but they don't overheat because solid wire is of course solid. Ferrules compress stranded wire and turn it almost into a solid conductor allowing an excellent connection. In almost every country outside the US. The use of ferrules is required by law, NO loose stranded wires are allowed because ferrule connections are superior with stranded wires. Please do whatever you are comfortable with but ferrules are pretty amazing little things for stranded wire.
@@SilverCymbal Regular outlets have simple screw terminals for solid wire, and the top, bottom, and inside parts of the wire loop make contact with the screw. Outlets designed to use stranded wire have a pressure plate, like the one on your plug, in addition to the screw. When I wire my shop, I'll use stranded for everything, which requires me to use ferrules at the breakers (which are listed for solid wire) and those fancier outlets with the pressure plates. One can't use stranded with a regular screw terminal, and I wouldn't convert stranded into solid using ferrules on a device (like your plug) that is designed to use stranded directly.
@@bmay8818 The same spec NEMA connectors are used in Australia for commercial uses, they are required to use ferrules and this exact same part number is used here and certified to AU/NZ specs. I can't speak about your shop but pressure plate fittings are perfectly fine with ferrules like the ones found on this connector! Im a qualified electician and electrical engineer if that helps change your mind haha.
I think you're supposed to remove those 2 black spacers on the cable clamp for SOOW cable, I think it's pinching it too much. I made some extensions just like this a few months ago with that same exact cable and plugs. Removing those spacers clamped more "around" the wire, with enough thread room to spare. The white body also has ridges to make a good mechanical clamp. Pinching a cable that hard may make it crack/split earlier than intended. But great video otherwise!
Thank you, its definitely not cheaper to build your own. But you are getting much better components if you do but its hard to ignore the inexpensive cords for infrequent use
Let me work on that one, its a new one amzn.to/3oyrW01 for $41 seems like an amazing deal so far. The reviews from others are good. Once I use it a little bit longer I will do a video since folks always want a god value meter, I thought I wouldn't care about the color screen but it makes it really easy to read.
@@SilverCymbal was just looking for an affordable meter and saw similar ones with the LCD screen on Amazon but I trust your reviews so I'll be waiting for your video. Keep up the good work!
My generator while it does make 240v it does not have a 240v plug in. So the first thing I will need to do is install a 240v plug in beside my 120v plug ins. When using the 240v plug in I will need to block my 120v outlets. My genset does not produce 30 Amp service so will need to limit my 240v outlet to 15 amps per leg.
For the wire cutter when you cut those cable, some small wire is cut off. Will that affect quality of final power plug? Or you need to redo it until it perfect no small wire should be cut.
I was trying to decide which wire to use between the gen anf the transfer switch, you mentioned the SJOW, we have a small home with no air so the second hot is not needed ( I think) ? can you make a recomendation? ThankYou
I started as a maintenance worker. Fix that and that. The co worker was making a cord for a labler or something. 110 volt I asked why are you crossing the black and white wire over each other?
Good video. Have a question..... My home has only WHITE, BLACK, and ground, but no RED wire. So, how would I wire the plug without a RED wire. Was thinking of running a jumper from where the black wire goes into the back of the plugs to where the red goes..
My generator is 8750 starting watts and 7000 running watts. What cable can I use that is rated for almost 9000 watts? 10 gauge is rated for 7500 watts. Since it will be plugged into the 30 Amp/240 volts plug on the generator will the plug and wire used in this video work?
Quick question, is that style of plug what is used for RVs? I was looking for a good cable to hook up an EcoFlow Delta to a very small travel trailer for power.
No, solder should never be used in any fitting the clamps it down, while solder is wonderful for wire to wire connection it has terrible properties when crushed down. I know we tin speaker wires but those are not compressed. Just use raw wire as is if you don't use ferules (which is totally fine to not use ferrules)
Will this cable be good enough to pass power from 4 batteries to a 3000 watts power inverter in a semi truck? I looks very flexible and well insulated. Thank you.
No, the amperage would be too high. A=W/V (Amps = Watts / Volts) If the truck is a 24V system, you would be running roughly 125A between the battery and inverter. A 12V system your closer to 250A. Often inverters of this size will have 2 or more lugs for each + and - connection to allow you to run a couple beefy wires to them. We are talking 1/0 or 2/0 gauge or larger depending on the distance of the run, conductor type, and ventilation available (something people forget when they install these things. The more amperage in the wire, the more heat it gives off, and if there is limited or no ventilation, the heat can build up leading to fire.) If you have a good inverter, you should have several lugs letting you run smaller gauge wires in bundles to help make the install easier and safer. Best advice I can give is, if you're not sure, your better off bringing it to a pro to install. This covers you for anything that goes wrong from the inverter being damaged to the truck burning up due to bad installation (insurance company's love to deny claims now-a-days, don't give them an excuse.)
It looks like the receptacle covers on your eu7000i are starting to yellow like mine. Annoying! Al though I only think about it when I see them, so not *that* annoying.
I saw some of those. The cuts I have gotten are razor clean as you can see in the video, follow their instructions but I just it it on and I usually push the tool away from me to cut, not sure if thats why it works well but its been a nice tool for me.
Anyone who’s been around generators or trailers or boats with these plugs knows how horrible they are. I wish they would make a new better standard for these connections. That cable will not last a lifetime. They don’t make a good connection after a while which causes resistance and heat and those brass tabs burn up.
@@MLFranklin its anywhere these plugs are used not just boats. there are better solutions but they are proprietary, they also make a marine one. I can't remember the name or brand right now.
These connectors are not waterproof at all regardless of that rubber grommet. There are always gaps between the two halves clamping the sheathing. Also, the connectors are not rated as waterproof by the mfr.
By the time you get those out its just as easy to split the clamp and you won't be able to get them back in even with the clamp fully extended with this cable, the pins on them add another 1/4" to each side.
@@SilverCymbal the black pieces in the clamp are designed to be removed when using larger cable sizes. The screws do not need to be tightened all the way, just enough to clamp the cable. From what I can tell in the video, the clamps are overnighted, which is bad for the cable and insulation integrity
@@N-hunter You are correct, I went back to Pass Seymours install guide and for this cable size those clamps can be removed. I appreciate you noticing this and will add it to the description as well if buyers choose this model plugs. Details matter! Thanks
@@SilverCymbal i know a lot about those. I do wiring for UK Europe and USA. At least we don't have a 800 pages of NEC and more for each UL standards writen in "code" for us mortals to decypher hehehe.
It's not cheaper, by all means if you can get a pre-made one like this: amzn.to/3YA8tyQ - You make your own cord for a better quality cord, an exact length and easily repairable. But there are certainly multiple ways to get what you need.
@@imperialdoggo5826 that's confusing to a European, we use, Live is brown used to be red, Neutral is blue was black, the phase colours were Red Yellow Blue, and are now Brown Black Grey, the Earth is Green with a Yellow stripe.
30ft Cable is $131 bucks with inflation. Salty. You can buy 25ft 30 amp already made generator cable for $58. Not sure making yourself and extra few ft are worth $85ish bucks.
Thanks for watching please LIKE & SUBSCRIBE - Strippers: amzn.to/3oyw6oy Cable Organizer: amzn.to/3HEYLQr Other parts in the description
Know how many cords I've bought off the shelf that weren't even gauged to the rating it marketed. Started making my own and been handing making lamp cords for wall scones
@@gonzostwin1 ilol lo ooññ
Hello, can you use this gauge SOOW wire if wish to make up a plug with a 50A male end/plug going to a generator, and 50A female twist lock going to 50A inlet box? Thanks! Love your channel!
Another good rule is to turn the breaker off before plugging/unplugging a cable and locking/unlocking it.
There can be an arc if not which will degrade the prongs over time.
That really is excellent advice!
Shouldn't be neccessary if things are set up right. Normally you would have a generator interlock switch. With the generator interlock switch set to MAINS, just connect generator cord and there will be no sparks. Then flip the interlock switch to GENERATOR and thing will be running. Before pulling out, just flip interlock switch to MAINS to remove the load from the generator.
I have made several of these cables but didn’t use ferrules. That was a nice touch and I will try them next time. Nicely done brother 👍
Do not try them next time. Add them immediately. Without them it is very dangerous and can course fires
@@allcrafter3747 got it..will do and thanks for the reply!
I had the same thought. I had the crimp set and everything but didn’t think to use them even though I felt uneasy with the stranded wires in one end of my EVSE pigtail cable. My mindset was that the ferrules were for my 3D printer stuff or terminal blocks in my other electronics work so I never even thought to use them. I will be redoing it immediately!
Make sure you use ferrules designed for the wire size, and not just a pin connector designed for speakers. And don’t try to crimp with regular pliers.
Another option is to tin the wires with solder to ‘solidify’ them.
@@TomCee53 that’s exactly what I was thinking tin them wires, better and cheaper
Worth building for the custom length alone! Thanks for another great video!
Much appreciated
Great instruction! I had to build a 240 volt “extension” cord because our window unit’s cord was too short lasted at least 15 years before we moved. Never an issue
I really love those receptacles where the wire goes straight through rather than wrapping around the screw. My Generlink cable apparently was custom made.
I work in an industrial research facility from the 1900s where the polarity of the outlets is random, so I do this 20-30 times to get the machines spinning in the right direction when we setup a new test plant. Handy design, and I concur, they last forever. We are very hard on these.
Buy a phase rotation indicator, I made sure the whole factory was phased correctly.
@@dogwalker666 phase rotation is only an issue with three phase power, which is highly unlikely in home use.
@@TomCee53 I suggest your re read the OP he said "Industrial Research facility", So not domestic, He also said the rotation of machines which means he was talking about 3 phase sockets, Probably CeeForm.
The outermost insulating layer is often called sheathing to differentiate it from the insulation on the individual conductors.
Great example of doing things correctly with all the right tools. Nice!
I've made PC power cables out of shielded 12/3 SOOW cable. They are the best cables I've ever had for a PC.
That gasket will wear over time.
I've found that replacing it with rubber (standard bicycle inner-tube) works well.
Unfortunately, most times you won't realize this is necessary until it shorts out.
I think that one is edpm but you could be right, just from use. I like the tube idea that seems like an ingenius quick fix!
I'm so glad you brought out the wire ferrules! I was just about to comment on how much easier they make things.
I have been unsure if I should make my own or just by it. I need 40 ft 30 amp but this video is making want to give it a go. Nice informative video.
#10 will still handle 50 ft, but I’d probably upsize to #8 if I could afford it.
You know it's a good cable when it's the size of a garden hose
Nice video. Well done and enough detail for a DIYer to tackle the job.
that cable is very well used for caravans/ RVs and the live entertainment industry in america, hence the rugged outer jacket
I love your vids man im not even following the tutorial im just listening keep up the good work
YUP, I made one after I bought a nice Powerhorse gen running watts 7200 120/240 30 amps
from Northern Tool & Equipment. A good rugged cord is safer, you don't want any abrasiveness
where wire could be exposed and sitting in a puddle. I have a male fitting at each end, I know it
is a widowmaker, BUT after you shut the MAINS OFF and plug into the dryer, knowing its wiring
is protected by a 30 amp fused double pull-out or double-breaker you are all set. Silver Cymbal
did a VERY professional job here and that cord set will last forever. I am sure he will make sure
it is dry when he hangs it up to prevent dry rot. Two thumbs up.
When running hps lights knowing how to make lines is life saving instead of relying on off the shelf extension cord
Nice job one thing on the plugs you need to remove the black spacers from the clamps on end of plugs it is crushing wire unevenly.
I have a ferrule crimping tool and I love it.
another tip to slide that weather grommet or seal, use a bit of cornstarch or talc powder to act as a lubricant
Silicone/Die electric grease works for that as well
very well explained and presented.
I need to make a L-14 30P to a 10-50P so it plugs into my existing 50A compressor plug. Was given a Black Max 8125 Honda Powered Generator not running. 1 carb clean and governor adjustment later, she's ripping 60 Hertz @ 120v. But the output is a 30A instead of the 20A on my older Generac 4000.
Priced parts to make 25ft cable for me as seen in video,, at Menards 10/16/23 for 80 bucks Thanks for the info.
Do i have a generator? No.
Do i need this cable? No.
Will i ever get a generator and use this? No.
Did i enjoy this video while having dinner? Yes absolutely. Great content man keep it up
How do you learn or know how to do all these interesting things? I Enjoy your videos
Much appreciated, thank you
can confirm, this is what we use in the film industry.
Stack up on some heavy duty extension cords.Get them asap.Get the ones with a lot of watts that says heavy duty.If you get them now you don't have to worry about getting them incase of an power outage.Try to get the 100ft heavy duty extension cords
Good Video, wonder if price per foot is cheaper in DIY vs pre-fab, DIY definitely better if you need a specific length though.
So Ferrules I use when I am working with small wire, helps get a good connection, makes wiring easier, but makes me feel a bit off thinking of using them on something like a 6ga 50amp connection, I would be afraid of loosing some conductivity not having the terminal clamp be able to really "bite into" the cable, and the added resistance of the ferrule itself vs pure copper.
Much more expensive to DIY. That's because the quality of the American made cable is far better than the Chinese crap. You get what you pay for .
Thank you. Your video helped!
excellent instruction. thank you
Glad it was helpful!
what's the difference between these plugs and the common L14-30P?
Nice work SC!
i'm having issue with terminated the connector, with the ferrule i'll get the connector better
your videos are the best!
Wow, thanks!
Sounds dumb but in my area of canada, it's cheaper to buy pre made cables than the cable/ ends separately.
Well depending on the length
Thanks. I have a ferrule crimp set but didn’t think to use it for my EVSE pigtail even though I felt uneasy with the stranded wire. I’ll go back and add ferrules. :)
It’s a Level 2 J1772 EVSE (“240v car charger”) with a 4-prong NEMA 14-30 plug. The Chevrolet Volt only draws 20A so I adapted it to fit a NEMA 6-20 at the workshop using my pigtail. The outlet originally had 240v going to a normal-looking NEMA 5-15 (!) and I didn’t know until it fried my 110v work lights! The lease says I’m not supposed to do anything with 240v but thanks to their negligence I can play dumb, especially since the same EVSE supports 110v (Level 1 charging).
On that note, you will get a TON of views if you make a version of this video for that audience. Common household 240v plugs in North America range from NEMA 6-20 to NEMA 14-30 and 14-50… and you don’t typically get to pick what your Level 2 charger has. Heck, some “stealth” Level 2 chargers are sold as Level 1 chargers with a standard 110v NEMA 5-15 plug… one only needs to adapt it for Level 2 charging on 220-240v.
Some of the portable Level 1 EVSEs included with the Chevy Volt were actually stealth Level 2. Ours is one of them but it has a broken J1772 plug. When I can find a replacement J1772 that doesn’t cost as much as another EVSE then I’ll be making a whole set of pigtails for that one. :)
Poo... I used the same Velcro strap fro HD works really well... Thanks for the vid like the ferrules, great Idea.
Thank you, those straps are pretty good. I first wasn't sure but I burned through the pack in like 2 weeks now I want more. amzn.to/3HEYLQr
Not sure if this is how everyone does it in America but normally in AUS/NZ we make the Earth or for Americans "ground" slightly longer so in the event the cable gets pulled out from the plug the earth will be the last to lose connection making it safer. Is this something that is considered over there?
Some people do that. I’ve seen some connectors with the ground terminal raised to do that.
Being an electrician… idk why I started watching this
Hey just wanted to point out, I think you linked the wrong male plug piece. Your link goes to an L15-30 plug but it should be an L14-30 plug I believe.
Could you also “tin” the ends of the connections?
Maybe if you just do the very tip to stop it from fraying, but that's it. The problem is the solder easily wicks up the wire and goes past the insulation point, making it difficult to work with. Also, if there's a problem, and the connection gets hot, the solder can melt and make a loose connection even worse. I've done it for a few of these plugs, but ultimately I re-did them with ferrules or just bare copper strands.
We used to do that with a lot of wiring, but there is a risk that the tinning will wick further up the wire and make it hare, then the wire breaks right at the transition between tinned and clean stranded. EDIT: In fact I was watching what the current state of the art is for automotive wiring and they said that a good crimp is preferred and that some folks will not allow tinned wires in motorsports.
Great Video!
I dunno, it seems to me that ferrules are a bad idea in this application. The clamps on the plug are designed to squash the strands flat, making good contact, but ferrules limit the contact area to only two points. I think it's a great idea to use them in applications where the connection is designed for solid wire, but these plugs are designed to use stranded.
Consider this, all residential outlets are wired with solid wire. When you form a hook and screw it down, only the outer edges make contact with the outlets, but they don't overheat because solid wire is of course solid. Ferrules compress stranded wire and turn it almost into a solid conductor allowing an excellent connection. In almost every country outside the US. The use of ferrules is required by law, NO loose stranded wires are allowed because ferrule connections are superior with stranded wires. Please do whatever you are comfortable with but ferrules are pretty amazing little things for stranded wire.
@@SilverCymbal Regular outlets have simple screw terminals for solid wire, and the top, bottom, and inside parts of the wire loop make contact with the screw. Outlets designed to use stranded wire have a pressure plate, like the one on your plug, in addition to the screw. When I wire my shop, I'll use stranded for everything, which requires me to use ferrules at the breakers (which are listed for solid wire) and those fancier outlets with the pressure plates. One can't use stranded with a regular screw terminal, and I wouldn't convert stranded into solid using ferrules on a device (like your plug) that is designed to use stranded directly.
@@bmay8818 The same spec NEMA connectors are used in Australia for commercial uses, they are required to use ferrules and this exact same part number is used here and certified to AU/NZ specs. I can't speak about your shop but pressure plate fittings are perfectly fine with ferrules like the ones found on this connector! Im a qualified electician and electrical engineer if that helps change your mind haha.
@@SilverCymbalShorts158 scamming ass
That is correct with the ferrules installed you are limited in wattage / amperage due to lack of surface contact.
Good job. Thanks
I think you're supposed to remove those 2 black spacers on the cable clamp for SOOW cable, I think it's pinching it too much. I made some extensions just like this a few months ago with that same exact cable and plugs. Removing those spacers clamped more "around" the wire, with enough thread room to spare. The white body also has ridges to make a good mechanical clamp. Pinching a cable that hard may make it crack/split earlier than intended. But great video otherwise!
Yes, I added a note in the description about removing these. I should have followed their instructions better!
Excellent video sir! Question...is it actually cheaper to build your own vs pre-built?
Thank you, its definitely not cheaper to build your own. But you are getting much better components if you do but its hard to ignore the inexpensive cords for infrequent use
great video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You should state the cost for parts.
Can you do a video on how to make a 50 amp cord?
Pretty much the same technique. For 50A you’ll need the right connector (there are several ) and use 6 gauge wire.
would like to see a video about that meter you used
Let me work on that one, its a new one amzn.to/3oyrW01 for $41 seems like an amazing deal so far. The reviews from others are good. Once I use it a little bit longer I will do a video since folks always want a god value meter, I thought I wouldn't care about the color screen but it makes it really easy to read.
@@SilverCymbal was just looking for an affordable meter and saw similar ones with the LCD screen on Amazon but I trust your reviews so I'll be waiting for your video. Keep up the good work!
FYI. The link you posted for the male plug is not the right plug. That one is a 3 phase and I’d not the same.
My generator while it does make 240v it does not have a 240v plug in. So the first thing I will need to do is install a 240v plug in beside my 120v plug ins. When using the 240v plug in I will need to block my 120v outlets. My genset does not produce 30 Amp service so will need to limit my 240v outlet to 15 amps per leg.
You make that look so easy can you make me a 50 amp generator cord for my Duramax 15000 watt generator? How much? I need it to be 25 ft long
For the wire cutter when you cut those cable, some small wire is cut off. Will that affect quality of final power plug? Or you need to redo it until it perfect no small wire should be cut.
On those plugs there are little black pieces we’re the wire gets tightened down out you could have removed them so the wires are not being pinched.
Yes, I added a note in the description about removing these. I should have followed their instructions better!
Soow woohoo. The best. Great vid
I was trying to decide which wire to use between the gen anf the transfer switch, you mentioned the SJOW, we have a small home with no air so the second hot is not needed ( I think) ? can you make a recomendation? ThankYou
I don't know about that now. I have a 50 foot cord I bought off amazon for $99 bucks. I would have paid 150 plus doing it myself.
I started as a maintenance worker. Fix that and that. The co worker was making a cord for a labler or something. 110 volt I asked why are you crossing the black and white wire over each other?
He stated so polarity is correct. I said use other end of cord you won't have to cross over each other. I was surprised he didn't know that.
Awesome 👏 👍
So it’s ok if you don’t get the hot wires in the same terminal on each plug?
Good video.
Have a question.....
My home has only WHITE, BLACK, and ground, but no RED wire.
So, how would I wire the plug without a RED wire. Was thinking of running a jumper from where the black wire goes into the back of the plugs to where the red goes..
Your home has two blacks. That's your red.
@@pinkiepie1656
No, 1 black and 1 white.
Actually, the 20-foot cable I purchased for my generator uses the same wire and connectors.
My generator is 8750 starting watts and 7000 running watts. What cable can I use that is rated for almost 9000 watts? 10 gauge is rated for 7500 watts. Since it will be plugged into the 30 Amp/240 volts plug on the generator will the plug and wire used in this video work?
If I have a 3 prong generator cord, can I make both ends 4 prongs and get 240v? Or will this not work?
How do you wire a 4 prong male generator plug into a 3 female 240 welder outlet?
The yellow and red cable cutter.
Sure thing, here: amzn.to/34hgsax
Quick question, is that style of plug what is used for RVs? I was looking for a good cable to hook up an EcoFlow Delta to a very small travel trailer for power.
Can the Ferrules Crimping kit handle 6 AWG wires?
Are you going to test the Duromax 9000?
Will the cord be able to handle a 50 amp load?
I'm guessing in lieu of ferrules you could tin the ends with solder?
No, solder should never be used in any fitting the clamps it down, while solder is wonderful for wire to wire connection it has terrible properties when crushed down. I know we tin speaker wires but those are not compressed. Just use raw wire as is if you don't use ferules (which is totally fine to not use ferrules)
Solder or led the end’s
What kind of multimeter are you using
Will this cable be good enough to pass power from 4 batteries to a 3000 watts power inverter in a semi truck?
I looks very flexible and well insulated.
Thank you.
No, the amperage would be too high. A=W/V (Amps = Watts / Volts) If the truck is a 24V system, you would be running roughly 125A between the battery and inverter. A 12V system your closer to 250A.
Often inverters of this size will have 2 or more lugs for each + and - connection to allow you to run a couple beefy wires to them. We are talking 1/0 or 2/0 gauge or larger depending on the distance of the run, conductor type, and ventilation available (something people forget when they install these things. The more amperage in the wire, the more heat it gives off, and if there is limited or no ventilation, the heat can build up leading to fire.)
If you have a good inverter, you should have several lugs letting you run smaller gauge wires in bundles to help make the install easier and safer.
Best advice I can give is, if you're not sure, your better off bringing it to a pro to install. This covers you for anything that goes wrong from the inverter being damaged to the truck burning up due to bad installation (insurance company's love to deny claims now-a-days, don't give them an excuse.)
@@rascalpup5237
Thank you very much for your reply.
Yes. I will let a professional run the installation on this inverter for me. Thank you again.
It looks like the receptacle covers on your eu7000i are starting to yellow like mine. Annoying! Al though I only think about it when I see them, so not *that* annoying.
Sweet
My Generator only has 3 female slots, but the inlet box to the house has 4 male pins, how would i make a extension cord for this situation ?
That is where you need to know what you are doing. Get experienced help!
How much did everything cost?
For a 40' cord as shown with the plugs it will be about $140
@@SilverCymbal Thanks!
Cant find that kind of crimper in our country 😢
Amazon has complaints about the Jokari stripper blade moving around and not making a ragged cut. Did you have any issues with this?
I saw some of those. The cuts I have gotten are razor clean as you can see in the video, follow their instructions but I just it it on and I usually push the tool away from me to cut, not sure if thats why it works well but its been a nice tool for me.
Would this be acceptable for a generator with 7000 running watts and 9000 watts peak?
9000W is 40A@240v - needs 8 gauge wire.
7000/240 = 29.xxxxxx so
Вітаю! Скажіть як з L14-30 які з 4 проводів з'єднати до вилки європейського стандарту. Передали бензогенератор з США в Україну. Дякую
Where do I get SOOW 3 wire cable
Hey man I got a question do you think that I could use 8 gauge wire?
You can generally always upsize, and is recommend it for a run over 50 feet.
Anyone who’s been around generators or trailers or boats with these plugs knows how horrible they are. I wish they would make a new better standard for these connections.
That cable will not last a lifetime. They don’t make a good connection after a while which causes resistance and heat and those brass tabs burn up.
Interesting and scary. Is that in a freshwater or seawater environment? I wonder if the military has a better solution?
@@MLFranklin its anywhere these plugs are used not just boats. there are better solutions but they are proprietary, they also make a marine one. I can't remember the name or brand right now.
@@Desertjoe789 Could the brand your thinking of be Hubell?
How many amps are those ferrules rated for?🤔🤔
There are a lot of companies that make them, here is a spec sheet for a typical 10ga version rated at 50amps - www.ferrulesdirect.com/products/at60010
These connectors are not waterproof at all regardless of that rubber grommet. There are always gaps between the two halves clamping the sheathing. Also, the connectors are not rated as waterproof by the mfr.
why didnt you remove the black inserts in the cable clamp portion? you are squeezing down on that insulation way too hard
By the time you get those out its just as easy to split the clamp and you won't be able to get them back in even with the clamp fully extended with this cable, the pins on them add another 1/4" to each side.
@@SilverCymbal the black pieces in the clamp are designed to be removed when using larger cable sizes. The screws do not need to be tightened all the way, just enough to clamp the cable. From what I can tell in the video, the clamps are overnighted, which is bad for the cable and insulation integrity
@@N-hunter You are correct, I went back to Pass Seymours install guide and for this cable size those clamps can be removed. I appreciate you noticing this and will add it to the description as well if buyers choose this model plugs. Details matter! Thanks
Nice video. Where did you get the cable cutter?
Right here: amzn.to/34hgsax
@@SilverCymbal thanks missed it.
America cables and connectors are crazy
They are, especially compared to the UK ones I have seen, those are like works of art!
@@SilverCymbal i know a lot about those. I do wiring for UK Europe and USA. At least we don't have a 800 pages of NEC and more for each UL standards writen in "code" for us mortals to decypher hehehe.
@@SilverCymbal maybe you want to do a comparison? Collaborative? 🤔
So after tools how much is this cheaper way going to cost me.
It's not cheaper, by all means if you can get a pre-made one like this: amzn.to/3YA8tyQ - You make your own cord for a better quality cord, an exact length and easily repairable. But there are certainly multiple ways to get what you need.
@@SilverCymbal round about not counting tools what am I looking at?
Forever huh !? Who’s gonna verify that ?
I bet harbor freight tries to get this video banned! 🤣
They want us to buy their $20 cable lmao.
@@joeythefoxxo It's 50 dollars now for a 25'.
@@UncleSarkis Damn 2 years did a lot of markups.
@@joeythefoxxo Not only all the markups, but the usual coupons are gone too.
Give it a twist before you put it in.
One male and one Female.
There is another option for those who live on the edge.
Strange cable colours.
White is neutral, green is ground, red and black are split phase hots.
@@imperialdoggo5826 that's confusing to a European, we use, Live is brown used to be red, Neutral is blue was black, the phase colours were Red Yellow Blue, and are now Brown Black Grey, the Earth is Green with a Yellow stripe.
I know. You guys have a lot better of a electrical setup than us.
@@imperialdoggo5826 👍🏻
It's better to tin each wire end.
30ft Cable is $131 bucks with inflation. Salty. You can buy 25ft 30 amp already made generator cable for $58. Not sure making yourself and extra few ft are worth $85ish bucks.