That is the same process I figured out, you just verifying I made the effort as easy as can be. Thank you for the information and time to help other old steer owners.
Thanks for the great video explaining exactly what i needed to do. I got it all apart, old belt off and new Belt slipped on, then got the split shaft put back together. Now, for the life of me i can't get the new belt onto the front pulley! I've got the plates on the rear shaft fully separated so the belt is riding right on the shaft, and i cannot get the belt to stretch over the plates on the front shaft. Any tips?
I am in the middle of the same problem..............the new belt does not slide in place as easily as this video suggests and I am having a fight with it . If nothing else it is an opportunity to use all my vocabulary ...............
My 610 is repowered as well but the way the pump was remounted remotely is crappy. I would love to have been able to see how your pump was mounted! Please do another video! Or send me a pic.
The pump is bolted on the rear part of the engine, there is a drive belt on the right side of the engine that runs a shaft that connects to the pump. It had the pump shaft go inside the shaft and a key was used to lock it in place with a collar. Long story short I t was a terrible design as the key would shear under any decent load. I replaced the pump and put a Lovejoy on it and welded a key on the shaft. I will post another video of it as this set up works great.
@@justinschneider2307 I am just redoing my pump setup now...I would like to exchange an email or something with pics...im interested in your idea but dont quite understand what you are saying
2:01 after removing hydro line from swivel. As shown at 1:58, does anything else need to be unbolted/removed before you separate the rear pulley? In other words, at that point do you just remove half of pully by force/muscle with the swivel assembly attached (as one unit)? Or is there another step or procedure? Hope this ? makes sense.
After you remove the swivel, you pull them apart but don't separate them as in don't disassemble. That way it just gives you more room to pull the belt up to the front pulley.
Great video! I need to pull my motor out of my 610, but am stuck at the rear variable speed pulley. I have disconnected my hose from the swivel on the end, have removed the small snap ring and now how do I get to the next snap ring. I was told something should push in on the shaft, and that would expose the snap ring to remove. I cannot get anything to push or pull there. Any help?
I believe if the belt is off it, you can squeeze the clutch together and it might expose it. It has been awhile since I took mine apart so this is just a guess.
I didn't take any retainer rings off anything, take plates off disconnect hydraulic hose- carefully. Then take out eight bolts on front shaft split t in two then take old belt off and reverse the steps
There is not a tension pully there is s variable speed pulley mounted to the motor . On the sides there are large caps take them off and tighten the nut you may need new steering clutches if you tighten them and it doesn't move.
@@justinschneider2307 thank you, I replaced the belt, found the started solenoid was like open essentially and fell to pieces when I touched it. Going to replace that and need to rewire the alternator because the wires corroded, hopefully fire it up. Also noticed oil all over/ under that variable speed control and all the lines and... everything really,(if you are looking down into the compartment on the right, above the belt)
hello, I have the same bocat M610, and I broke the same belt as you, in France I cannot find a belt reference, possible to tell me the reference to order one in France or in the USA ??? thank you so much
@@justinschneider2307big thank you Justin, I will order it right away, thank you for this precious information, because with us without the plate and references, the suppliers are not looking ... thank you from the Drôme in France, see you soon
That expensive little thing is a rotary union I bet there’s part number on it mine 610 rotary union look different and part number is 1005-020-019 made by Deublin
Thanks to you, for these answers, they will help me !! I had no reference and manufacturer's plate, I still have the brakes and steering to redo, see you soon, AND thank you !! to all , Merci DE la DROME 26000 en FRANCE
@@justinschneider2307 Hello Justin, thanks again for the information, I was able to order the belt in the States only, at: www.vbeltguys.com/products/6515271-bobcat-oem-equivalent-variable-speed-belt, Corey is my contact at VBELTGUYS ,, thanks for your help !! best regards, JR
How is the belt holding up. I bought one from them but sent it back since it was much thinner and less wide than a bobcat belt. Any noticeable difference in speed or slippage?
hello Justin Schneider I believe that you are my rescuer I acquired a bobcat so I have no indication of the model of the year 1984 it seems to me my problem is that it is difficult to make go left and right and it does not have the strength to push the wheels does not even spin on bare ground and very hard to do to vencer (you think of these belts?) I have no documentation on the mechanics do you know where we can? it looked a lot like the one in the video me the wisconsin engine v4 Thank you a lot
So a drive belt very well could be your problem just search bobcat 610 drive belt in your search engine and it should give you options. The other thing you can look at is the friction plates on the sides of the machine. You can tighten them by taking the caps off above the wheels and then tighten the castle nuts.
I understand how you split the axle to get one loop of the belt over the the (forward) driven sheave. What I don't understand is how to get the remaining belt over the (rear) drive sheave unless the drive sheave also splits open (into two halves) that would allow same to happen. The belt seems too tight (unstretchable) to pry it over the second (rear, drive) sheave with the help of a rounded pipe as the manual describes. So how do you get it over the second sheave? Thanks in advance for any/all help I can get. Nick 508-246-7034
You have to put the belt on the rear pulley first and then walk it on the front pully, the rear pully should spread open so it sits on the shaft. If you put it on the front pulley first there probably won't be enough room to walk it onto the rear. Hope this helps
Thanks, Justin. I very much appreciate your guidance and helping hand. Sounds easy enough but intuitively I'm a little shy without fully understanding. (I'm not a "real" mechanic, just retired and a "wannabe.") Maybe this will make more sense like anything else once I get into it. The old belt is still on but clearly needs to be replaced. It looks and feels tight. I can cut it off but when replacing with new I don't quite understand how the rear pulley "spreads" apart or what kind of force (tool) it will take to make that happen and how it will come back together again with the belt now on (up close to) the shaft and holding the two halves (of the rear pulley) apart. In other words, how will the new belt, once in place but presumably "slack" and close to the shaft of the rear pulley, get re-positioned towards the outer rim and its normal running position where the existing old belt now firmly sits? Is it the v shape of the belt in combination with the engine running and the consequent spinning two halves of the pulley that force the belt to move out and away from the shaft, thus tightening the belt and, in turn, driving the forward, "driven" pulley? If this is the case I should be able to get in there with a pry bar to separate the sheaves allowing the old belt to collapse onto the shaft making it easier for removal, no? I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you know what happened. Anywho, thanks for being there. Nick.
@@justinschneider2307 hello, I have the same bocat M610, and I broke the same belt as you, in France I cannot find a belt reference, possible to tell me the reference to order one in France or in the USA ??? thank you so much
That is the same process I figured out, you just verifying I made the effort as easy as can be. Thank you for the information and time to help other old steer owners.
thank you very much for this video. you helped more than you know. thank you
Glad it is helpful
Thanks for the great video explaining exactly what i needed to do. I got it all apart, old belt off and new Belt slipped on, then got the split shaft put back together. Now, for the life of me i can't get the new belt onto the front pulley! I've got the plates on the rear shaft fully separated so the belt is riding right on the shaft, and i cannot get the belt to stretch over the plates on the front shaft. Any tips?
I am in the middle of the same problem..............the new belt does not slide in place as easily as this video suggests and I am having a fight with it . If nothing else it is an opportunity to use all my vocabulary ...............
My 610 is repowered as well but the way the pump was remounted remotely is crappy. I would love to have been able to see how your pump was mounted! Please do another video! Or send me a pic.
The pump is bolted on the rear part of the engine, there is a drive belt on the right side of the engine that runs a shaft that connects to the pump. It had the pump shaft go inside the shaft and a key was used to lock it in place with a collar. Long story short I t was a terrible design as the key would shear under any decent load. I replaced the pump and put a Lovejoy on it and welded a key on the shaft. I will post another video of it as this set up works great.
@@justinschneider2307 I am just redoing my pump setup now...I would like to exchange an email or something with pics...im interested in your idea but dont quite understand what you are saying
2:01 after removing hydro line from swivel. As shown at 1:58, does anything else need to be unbolted/removed before you separate the rear pulley? In other words, at that point do you just remove half of pully by force/muscle with the swivel assembly attached (as one unit)? Or is there another step or procedure? Hope this ? makes sense.
After you remove the swivel, you pull them apart but don't separate them as in don't disassemble. That way it just gives you more room to pull the belt up to the front pulley.
@@justinschneider2307 from what I understand there’s a snap ring in there that you would have to remove in order to take half of that sheave off.
Great video! I need to pull my motor out of my 610, but am stuck at the rear variable speed pulley. I have disconnected my hose from the swivel on the end, have removed the small snap ring and now how do I get to the next snap ring. I was told something should push in on the shaft, and that would expose the snap ring to remove. I cannot get anything to push or pull there. Any help?
I believe if the belt is off it, you can squeeze the clutch together and it might expose it. It has been awhile since I took mine apart so this is just a guess.
Thank you for sharing.
How did you get the retainer ring off, the first one?
I didn't take any retainer rings off anything, take plates off disconnect hydraulic hose- carefully. Then take out eight bolts on front shaft split t in two then take old belt off and reverse the steps
Thanks for the verification, I have a 500 and should be the same process.
Is there no tensioner pulley? I just bought a 610 got it fired up but it doesnt move at all. Belt has like an inch of play and missing a few teeth.
There is not a tension pully there is s variable speed pulley mounted to the motor . On the sides there are large caps take them off and tighten the nut you may need new steering clutches if you tighten them and it doesn't move.
@@justinschneider2307 thank you, I replaced the belt, found the started solenoid was like open essentially and fell to pieces when I touched it. Going to replace that and need to rewire the alternator because the wires corroded, hopefully fire it up. Also noticed oil all over/ under that variable speed control and all the lines and... everything really,(if you are looking down into the compartment on the right, above the belt)
I am trying to install a motor someone pulled so trying to see what I am missing etc
If my belt broke, I shouldn't need to split that shaft apart, right?
Sorry to tell you, you will need to split it to put your new belt on.
Thanks
hello, I have the same bocat M610, and I broke the same belt as you, in France I cannot find a belt reference, possible to tell me the reference to order one in France or in the USA ??? thank you so much
Bobcat 610 drive belt OEM # 6515271
@@justinschneider2307big thank you Justin, I will order it right away, thank you for this precious information, because with us without the plate and references, the suppliers are not looking ... thank you from the Drôme in France, see you soon
That expensive little thing is a rotary union I bet there’s part number on it mine 610 rotary union look different and part number is 1005-020-019 made by Deublin
Thanks to you, for these answers, they will help me !! I had no reference and manufacturer's plate, I still have the brakes and steering to redo, see you soon, AND thank you !! to all , Merci DE la DROME 26000 en FRANCE
@@justinschneider2307 Hello Justin, thanks again for the information, I was able to order the belt in the States only, at: www.vbeltguys.com/products/6515271-bobcat-oem-equivalent-variable-speed-belt, Corey is my contact at VBELTGUYS ,, thanks for your help !! best regards, JR
How is the belt holding up. I bought one from them but sent it back since it was much thinner and less wide than a bobcat belt. Any noticeable difference in speed or slippage?
Really well, I was sceptical as well but it has held up to about 40 hours of use so far and no issues.
hello Justin Schneider
I believe that you are my rescuer I acquired a bobcat so I have no indication of the model of the year 1984 it seems to me
my problem is that it is difficult to make go left and right and it does not have the strength to push the wheels does not even spin on bare ground
and very hard to do to vencer (you think of these belts?) I have no documentation on the mechanics do you know where we can? it looked a lot like the one in the video me the wisconsin engine v4
Thank you a lot
So a drive belt very well could be your problem just search bobcat 610 drive belt in your search engine and it should give you options. The other thing you can look at is the friction plates on the sides of the machine. You can tighten them by taking the caps off above the wheels and then tighten the castle nuts.
@@justinschneider2307 thank you so much
I understand how you split the axle to get one loop of the belt over the the (forward) driven sheave. What I don't understand is how to get the remaining belt over the (rear) drive sheave unless the drive sheave also splits open (into two halves) that would allow same to happen. The belt seems too tight (unstretchable) to pry it over the second (rear, drive) sheave with the help of a rounded pipe as the manual describes. So how do you get it over the second sheave? Thanks in advance for any/all help I can get. Nick 508-246-7034
You have to put the belt on the rear pulley first and then walk it on the front pully, the rear pully should spread open so it sits on the shaft. If you put it on the front pulley first there probably won't be enough room to walk it onto the rear. Hope this helps
Thanks, Justin. I very much appreciate your guidance and helping hand. Sounds easy enough but intuitively I'm a little shy without fully understanding. (I'm not a "real" mechanic, just retired and a "wannabe.") Maybe this will make more sense like anything else once I get into it. The old belt is still on but clearly needs to be replaced. It looks and feels tight. I can cut it off but when replacing with new I don't quite understand how the rear pulley "spreads" apart or what kind of force (tool) it will take to make that happen and how it will come back together again with the belt now on (up close to) the shaft and holding the two halves (of the rear pulley) apart. In other words, how will the new belt, once in place but presumably "slack" and close to the shaft of the rear pulley, get re-positioned towards the outer rim and its normal running position where the existing old belt now firmly sits? Is it the v shape of the belt in combination with the engine running and the consequent spinning two halves of the pulley that force the belt to move out and away from the shaft, thus tightening the belt and, in turn, driving the forward, "driven" pulley? If this is the case I should be able to get in there with a pry bar to separate the sheaves allowing the old belt to collapse onto the shaft making it easier for removal, no? I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you know what happened. Anywho, thanks for being there. Nick.
@@justinschneider2307
hello, I have the same bocat M610, and I broke the same belt as you, in France I cannot find a belt reference, possible to tell me the reference to order one in France or in the USA ??? thank you so much