I"m nominating you for Teacher of the Year award. You just have that ( I'm at a lost for words ) knack for explaining precisely how something works and to repair it. Awesome video !!
This is best, well-organized, and understandable presentation of mousetrap adjustment I've ever seen on line. You remind me so much of my Harley mentor who taught me this procedure 50 years ago. You are a fantastic teacher--keep up the great work!
Hey Mike I just wanted to thank you for your knowledge and expertise. My 66 shovelhead has always had a stiff hard clutch, had several shops try to adjust it and they all said it's just the way it is. This adjustment has made it so much easier to ride the bike wich allows me more ride time. You are definitely my go to guy for any issues, ride safe brother!!
Thank you. The more you do it, the better you'll get at it. The function becomes clearer in your mind. This is old technology, which means everything is adjustable and rebuildable.
Mike, I have a 66 shovel too, but the clutch rod is not a straight shot to the clutch arm, my starter soilnoid is preventing a straight rod going through... Hope this makes sense.
Mike I adjusted the mousetrap on my 62 pan today with the help of your video. I want to thank you for sharing your experience with classic bikes With respect J. Gordon
Mike is the best! Several years ago I struggled for hours trying to adjust the mousetrap on my panhead, finally got it but was a fight. Used Mike's instructions to set up my mousetrap on my new 66 shovel, it took as long as the video took, 12 minutes! Step by step process made it idiot proof! Thanks my west coast friend!
Through a friend I acquired a boxed 1956 Harley Big Twin that had been in storage for about 25 years, and only having had a chopped Sportster, I didn't even know where to start. Mike's tutorials have been a lifesaver, saving me many hours of trial and error. Thanks, and much appreciated!
Thank you so much for this video! I’m working on my late father’s ‘61 FLH, which was his primary bike for almost 45 years. After installing a new clutch, replacement hand lever and cable, you have no idea how elated I was to see those clutch springs compress and plates move when the mousetrap was properly adjusted!
Excellent clutch adjustment demonstration. I'm going to replace the mouse trap eliminator on my 66 FLH that I put on 50 years ago because I just couldn't get it right from the harley's instructions. Never to old to learn.
very nice video,,,,,,,,,it sure brought back a lot of memories............my 58 panhead had a mousetrap and you're right ,,,,,,,,,,,,when it's adjusted RIGHT, THAT'S ONE SLICK ITEM THAT HARLEY CAME UP WITH,,,,,,,,,,BTW,,,,,,,,,,,,,you have a nice relaxing calming attitude in your videos,,,,,,,,,,,good job....................
The memories (good and bad) come flooding back when I was a kid learning to ride and work on bikes starting out on dad's old Knuckle. Thanks for taking me down memory lane and for passing on knowledge to the ones who were not as fortunate as some of us to grow up around the older bikes. Well done Mike.
Mike, I just bought my friend's '51 Panhead with Shovelhead top end, and unadulterated frame (complete with sidecar and tool kit mounts, etc.). Your videos--like this one--have been invaluable in familiarizing me with my new bike. Thank you!
Excellent demo and video! Always enjoyed helping friends back in the 60s and 70s adjust their mousetrap. They couldn't believe how easy mine was on my 67. Just like you said, start from the beginning. As a matter of fact I just went over mine yesterday on that same 67 FLH that I bought and have ridden since 1968 when I bought it 1 1/2 yrs old while still in high school. Great training videos,keep them coming. Happy New Year. By the way, that dresser cost me my life savings at that time $1250. Lol.
I watched this video multiple times while setting up an old mousetrap... the part where you say to lube everything finally echoed. The cable too! My crusty old cable was ruining the day. Thank you for your content
I will probably never get a chance to work on bikes from this era.. however it is a pleasure learning from your channel!! I really do enjoy working on the bikes in my family and helping friends.. I truly hope you keep these coming and maybe at some point get to newer style motors and bikes
Well, I've done a lot on the channel. Check out our channel homepage. We've built Shovelhead and Evolution motors. I just prefer old stuff. But they're all there, about 115 videos.
Have been trying for years to get my revtec five speed to work with my mouse trap.This video put me on the right track, now it works like it was meant to work on my older four speed. Mucho thanks.
I bought a `67 FLH in `73 while stationed in Honolulu. It was the last year for the mouse trap. Great system. I broke a clutch cable while out of town and it was a no brainer to operate the clutch using my hand on the mouse trap. Always adjusted it per the manual.
Your videos are some of the best out there. I've been wrenching my whole life but mainly shovels, evos and Ironheads. I now have 2 pans and about to start on a WLC. Your videos have been life savers. Can only get so much from a manual
It’s my goal to watch every single one of your videos very informative and I’m learning a lot about the old Harley Davison‘s I currently opened a shop with my brother near Chicago this year and you’ve help me with the shovel head we are working on! Thanks again for the videos I look forward to watching them
That's great. The big deal is to identify what you have. Years and models have their differences. I need to know when asked for information. "It's a Shovelhead" ain't gonna do it.
Hey, Mike. Still binge watching your channel. When I saw your video about the tank shifters, foot clutch and "it's a suicide clutch, not a suicide shift", I wondered if you would have a video about adjusting a moustrap clutch booster. Sure enough here it is. Well explained and done. This, like many things on older Harleys is a lost art. I'll have to look, to see if you have a video on how to set up a star hub on an older Harley. Another lost art. My 1960 Duo-Glide FLH was a badly neglected bike that sat in a puddle of water up over the axles for several years before I rescued it. What a labor of love that was. You can imagine, water got to the tires, rims, hubs, swing arm bearings, into the engine and transmission. I had to take that bike apart to the last nut and bolt. I did it over the winter '77 in New York. Scrounging parts from all over the place. Serviceable hubs were found in one of the smaller local HD shops. And most of the needed parts, like bearings and gaskets were still sitting in the inventory of the famous but now closed "Reggie Pink" dealership in Westchester County, NY. They had an amazing amount of NOS parts in their shop. Reggie was an old time flat track racer and I was surprised to find he still had stock to put together a KR flat track race bike I picked up in crates while I was stationed at Fort Rucker, Alabama. Anyway, maybe sometime you can show how to set up the roller bearings and side to side shimming of these hubs. Maybe explain how they use the same bearings that are used on the big end of the forked engine connecting rods. The longer bearings on the drive or brake side, shorter on the other. And they can be oversized to make a nice fit. It is an archaic system compared to the new hubs with tapered rollers, but very satisfying to do properly. I'm digging your channel the more I watch it, thanks to you and your two cameramen. John....
Man you bring back memories of Mile 58 Panhead I just love watching and listening to you work on your old bikes I got a 95 Heritage Classic nowadays but I sure miss my Panhead like to hang with you someday that would be cool
It was almost impossible for me to pull the clutch on my old 56 and I thought that was the way it was all these years and when I was younger I could handle it. After running through this adjustment it works much better and I can actually pull it with ease. Its still a bit stiff but I think I have the clutch basket springs on the tight side. Plenty of meat on the plates and I cleaned sanded and reinstalled like in another of your vids. I have had this old bike sitting in the corner of the garage and thought it was time to fire it up again. I wont know if the clutch can be backed off or not until another week or 2 waiting on a few parts. Last time I fired it up about 6 years ago it was spewing oil out of somewhere and I just put it back in the corner and bought a KTM690. Sold the Duke about 4 years ago and now its back to the Panhead. Watching your videos has helped me out in a big way. Thank you Pacific Mike.
I cringe when I have to make this adjustment, only because my '67 has no derby cover. Your step by step certainly simplifies understanding what to do, kudos on that!
Thanks Mike for an easily understandable great video. I have the shop manuals for my references but I guess its my ADHD that makes it a little harder to understand. Seeing you work is by far the easiest way for me to learn. I just discovered your videos a couple weeks ago and you have ignited a fire under me to get back to work on my 51 El. With your videos, I see myself going further into it feeling more confident than ever before. Keep up the great work and I love your motorcycles as well.
Thanks brother for the great video . My good partner was the king of mouse traps but he’s gone now with all the knowledge. With your helping some patience I was able to adjust my mouse trap after studying your video many times over and it’s working great ! Thanks again be safe !
Hi Mike, been watching all the video's I can with regards to Panheads never too old to learn I especially like this one on the Clutch Booster or Mousetrap. Now its off to the shed and hope I don't catch my fingers. Appreciate all your visual help and the easy way in which you explain each maintenance task. Rgds from West Australia. Johnno
In 1972 I had a 1955 panhead, I set up the mousetrap without all these instructions, seems like alot of stuff for the mechanically inept. Seeking advice on torking the head bolts I called an old Harley mechanic I knew. He laughed and told me "tighten down the head bolts till the heads snap off and back off a quarter turn. This is how we worked on those Harleys back then. We knew our motors.
After many years, I've tried to improve. My bikes run better than they used to. I've tried to learn and share what I've learned. In '69, I built a 58 Sportster for myself from a $200.00 basket case. I've improved from there. I hope to get better from here.
Great video, thanks. I took the mousetrap off my '66 and now have it on my' 72. Also nice to have if the cable breaks, you still have the mousetrap. They really thought things out back then.
Awesome! Thanks. I was under the impression that mousetraps were supposed to hold the clutch without a hand on the lever. Then tap it again to release. This makes more sense.
Very instructional! I am rebuilding my 1964 panhead. It looks like your bell crank assembly is 65 to 67. The end of your clutch rod is on the left hand side. Mine mounts on the other side. A discovery I made, the clutch booster bracket has to be oriented correctly so the clutch lever rod does not interfere or hit against the end of the shifter. Hopefully this makes sense? Great video for a tricky operation.
Man you are the greatest. You have a way of teaching so it's easy to understand and do. Your videos are the greatest. Plus you work on a bunch of PANHEADS
Mike, I enjoyed your adjustment video. I am only one of a few in North Alabama that can adjust the mousetrap clutch. You did it identical to how I do it, and basically the panhead manual. One thing you didn't mention was why they called it a mousetrap. When you have your hand in there, it will slam shut on your hand, and that hurts! Great video!
very good tutorial on the mousetrap!For some reason, many people pitched them and put on Barnett Mouse Trap Eliminator kits because they never could get the booster adjusted properly ( scooped up a lot of boosters, really cheap back then). It's bit of a process, but well worth it, to me, and as you just showed, it's not THAT big of a process (you just did it in under 13 minutes, and that was with explanations), if you take your time, and do it in the proper order (that is the key). Mousetrap and Panhead external oil filter have always been an absolute must have on ALL my builds back in the day. Not only are they practical and functional, but they look neat as hell. Nice Job Mike!
Thanks Mike, you're an excellent teacher. I wrote down what you said and now have a clearer procedure that I'm looking forward to trying on Rosie my Panhead (...she likes the attention). Also bought a 3/8" flex head ratchet from watching you work on another video.
I finally got around to adjusting mine. first time ever doing so and what an experience! It took me most of the day and several tries but I finally got it. The thing that kept messing me up is I couldn't get it done right at 4 1/4 . Right now it's at 3 and three quarters. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but everything seems to be working good. I'll test ride it tomorrow and see
That measurement is a recommendation by Harley's service manual. After enough years, we have different clutches, maybe a clutch arm that's been modified a little, a lot of variables. That measurement is for a nice "mechanical advantage." It gives nice leverage. These adjustments are not written in stone. Have a good ride.
Now you have me thinking. Quit it. Maybe your throwout bearing rod is not going in far enough. Maybe your problem is in the kicker cover. If it works well now, who cares? But if you need more travel from that arm, one can get quite creative.
Great video to set up a mouse trap and I love mine you have a wonderful way of explaining what you have to do. Keep it up and thanks again for your service to all of us that love our motors
You do a great job Mike and I appreciate that...your very precise with your instructions...There aren't a lot of guys out there who want to take the time to make a video..Keep making them..Jim in Scottsdale, AZ.
@@pacificmike9501 actually i'm not owning a Harley yet, but i ride classic motorcycles a lot since a teenager and luckily I found me a great mechanic who fix up my bikes and also taught me to fix my bike at home exactly like the way you do, so gentle and carefully. Btw I'm riding a 2002 Yamaha SR400, it is a really good bike to me hehe
Thank you...another excellent video. I must of read my Panhead manual a hundred times and it still made no sense. I'm gonna head out to the shop right now to adjust my Mouse trap. Cheers!
Just to let you know....the clutch now works like a champ! It's wonderful not breaking into a sweat at stop lights anymore. Again, thanks for the tutorial.
I'm really glad. The more you do clutches, the better you'll get. I try to help, but there's no substitute for experience. And now, you have experience. Way cool.
In the late 1970s many of my friends were running mousetraps on panheads. I had a 1973 FL Police Special with a jockey top hand shift and a friction plate foot clutch. I could never get the hand shift linkage adjusted right so I was always grinding years. I put a ratchet top on it but kept the foot clutch, shifting with a lever under my butt.
I'm loving these videos! Thank you so much for all the in depth details and how to do, I myself don't own a bike yet, although been tempting to own one for many years, still I haven't got a license for one and have no knowledge about motors or such, always wished I knew someone that had knowledge about bikes and repairs, but perhaps could learn a bit here and there after watching youe videos. :) Greetings from Sweden.
Greetings! And, Thank You. There seems to be a lot of bike building in Sweden, but I've never been there. I had some friends that used to visit from Sweden. They were incredible fun.
Well Mike: I have Learnt alot today, never sean a 'Mouse-Trap' like that before. Usless for catching Mice, but really great for those long days in the sadel. I think I would need to right all this down before trying to do the job. Its a lovelly Bike though. Old school with all the mod cons for todays riding! Thank you.
Thank You. You know, it's all written in the service manual. I still do it with the book open. They installed them on big twins from 52-67. People took them off because they couldn't understand how to adjust them. Very sad. But fun today.
I understand. But, set properly, the mousetrap is such an easy pull, and locks up so easily. I've actually gone back into people's bikes and reinstalled mousetraps and made them real happy.
thanks Mike, been fighting my mousetrap for the best part of an hour. Made the mistake of starting 1/2 way through, will apply your clear instructions (and calm manner). cheers
Wow. Thanks so much for this video. I never realized that it should be very light to move the clutch lever like that. With one finger. I need to use four fingers to actuate. Back to it I guess.
Thank's Mike for your great work , very informative . You have helped me keep my old bike running as it should. You are better than a manual. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you. Wonderful compliments. But, don't discount the service manual. It was put together by professionals. If you look at your manual long enough, you will start thinking like it and you'll love it. I traveled several states on a new Shovelhead many years ago. Didn't quite understand that "modern" bike. I had my service manual with me the whole time in my saddlebag. It was priceless to me.
I was going to reply about adjusting the clutch booster from another video of yours and decided just to search it out and you have it and it's funny when I had my clutch booster on my 62 Panhead a lot of bikers were telling me to take it off I said hell no man, by the way as you can see my name is also Michael and in the 80s I was a motorcycle mechanic my boss worked on Rice burners and then when he got married into the his wife father owned Brooklyn and Hempstead Harley-Davidson then we started working on Harleys, it was great back then we used to work until like 2 in the morning and not even realize it.
I think you are a very good teacher and I would love to see a video on the old cast iron oil pumps I have a 55 panhead and I have burnished the oil pump and I still have a oil leak and I’m sure you could show me what I am missing. I thank you for sharing your information and your knuckle head is very nice to I love the old bikes and the cast iron pump is a very good part and I would never want anything else on my Panhead and I run the mousetrap and you explain it so well Best Regards Robert S Raper
We have to do them as they come up. But, my Panhead still has her original pump. Haven't had it apart in several years. But, she currently needs a trans seal. We'll be getting to that pretty soon. Thanks. We'll get to everything sooner or later. We just don't take stuff apart until it needs it.
I would not want you to take a oil pump that has no problem. Just hoping I’m sure that you can show me the thing I’m not getting. But i may grind the seat with tooth paste and try to burnish it again. You never are to old to learn something that i don’t know. And you have a great way of explaining things so that they are easy to understand.
Thank you. I assume you're speaking of the ball and seat that keep the oil in the tank, instead of the crankcase. I've seen it done so many ways. I remember a piece of welding rod with a brand new ball welded to it and very fine valve lapping compound. If you try that one, thorough cleaning before reassembly. In my shop, years ago (everything Evo back to Knuckle), I'd get calls every spring from people whose bikes had "wet-sumped" all over their garage floor. I'd explain it, then tell them to put a pan under their bike if it was gonna sit for long periods of time. They all do it, it's just a matter of how much, and how often. Sometimes, just a new ball and spring does wonders.
Great video! Thanks so much for the information, Mike. I am putting a mousetrap back on the '67 chopper I am currently building. It's always had a direct cable until now.
We already did the shovelhead primary, no mousetrap, not necessary with the clutch we're using. We continue to do things as they come up. Hope you find this stuff useful to you.
Nothing. It should be adjusted to put the arm in the right position, then locked down. Always leave a little play in the arm to keep from wearing out the throwout bearing prematurely. Then adjust the mousetrap in the proper sequence.
Looks? These things are an absolute pleasure to use. That's why they were invented. Sure, it would work on a 76. You can buy a reproduction (V-Twin carries them) or use an original. Treat your 76 (as far as parts, i.e. mousetrap, cable, clutch rod, and clutch arm, as if it were a 65-67 unit. The parts should all work.
Thanks Mike! This was perfect as I rehabilitate a 1966 FL. I found a hole at the front end of the clutch lever rod end. It looks like it _should_ have a zerk, but I'm given to understand that the factory intended us to pump a little oil in there now and again. Does this sound right? I'd rather have a zerk, but there's not really enough depth to thread one in.
You are correct. It s an oil hole. I have a tendency to pull it off and grease it with some good bearing grease. It's just routine stuff when I'm playing with it.
Great explanation for a stock bike but let's not forget the dreaded "A" word (aftermarket) ! There is probably 10 different lengths of clutch release levers & control rods, not to mention 2 different rod end holes and where the trap is clamped to the frame. I wish I could have watched this back when I was pulling the ends off cables & threads off the control rods 😞 Thanks Mike
Thank You. Remember, "aftermarket stuff" is way better than nothing to work with. The two different holes are for two different applications. They are bikes with tin primaries, and the bikes with aluminum primaries and electric starters. I tried to simplify the mousetrap a little. They sure are nice when properly adjusted and maintained.
I have a 1959 Pan/Shovel and i just got it back from a friend who i sold it to , My mouse trap keeps getting stuck on the two nuts that holds the u bracket to the frame , I was looking at the part that holds the rod end looks to be bent in ,So i took it off and maybe i can straighten it out , so it won't hit or get stuck , it use to work really good....Dang it
Mike, what would make the perfect Harley? Most comfortable, Most Reliable, Best year all in one bike.. what would that bike be? What model? What year? What size motor? Basically the perfect build in your opinion if price and availability of parts was no issue? Could this perfect build be capable of 200,000 miles if ( meticulously, obsessively maintained ) with no major repairs? Cylinder honing, Trans rebuild etc?
This is old machinery. It's really about "smiles per mile." A Shovelhead runs like a Shovelhead. A Knucklehead runs like a Knucklehead. They're all different. My Panhead is a sweet natured old "do anything" bike that's loads of fun to ride. My Knucklehead is a period chopper, not for the faint hearted, certainly an "E Ticket" ride. They're all different. Best? Best at what, on what day, for what occasion?
Mike I hope that in the near future you will add a way to support your wonderful work and it’s a great service you so kindly give. I would love to help you with some money and I’m sure that you would be surprised pleasantly. I had a good friend Gary Woodford. And he had the same easy way about him he passed away on my birthday 9-27-05 and I have a 05 police bike and I call it woddy. But I degress you a great teacher. And Gary helped me out a lot. Best Regards Robert S Raper
Thank You, Steve. It took me a bit of time to answer your letter. The name "Gary Woodford," struck a note. I honestly don't remember meeting him, but, I feel very complimented just the same. Quite a few years back, I met Randy Simpson at the V-Twin Expo in Cincinatti. We had quite a conversation. Having been in the bike business a long time, we had been doing business and it was great to meet him in person. All the TV stuff was in full bloom at that point. But, it was a great conversation. Randy was sitting on a bike, posing for pictures. He was getting a real kick out of the whole thing. The coolest thing was this little boy who wanted his picture taken with the famous biker. Randy treated that child like only a real good guy knows how to do. It was great. And, that's what happens when you jog My memory. I'm truly sorry you've lost Gary. Before my best friend passed in 03, we made each other a promise that we'd eventually open another shop together.
I introduced Gary to Randy who was a childhood friend Gary was afraid of Randy. He was always loud I didn’t pay much attention to that. I helped him start in his mother’s basement. I told Randy that the old guys called the motorcycles. Milwaukee Iron and a state trooper is the owner of Milwaukee iron 2 It’s in Mertill Beach South Carolina. He handled Randy when he was doing some coportaing with the police. He comes from Lynchburg Virginia where he was known as Honest Floyd at least he was by the people who knew him. I would restore the old motors. And Gary would be thinking of something that was a pleasure to watch. I thank you for sharing and being so kind. Best Regards Robert S Raper
I know I have already left a comment on this video, but at some point in time if possible could you show an up close video of the bar and riser set up on the Knuckle? Thank you Mike, your channel is fantastic 👏 👍
It is just standard old Flanders stuff. The handlebars are Flanders Drag Bars (still available through several suppliers). The risers are no longer produced by Flanders, but V-Twin (Ted Cycle) out of New York is reproducing them.
I'm curious if I can get some help, My name is Fox and I got a 1949 harley from my father but alot of it is unassembled and the foot clutch looks different from anything i have seen. It has square foot rests instead of round and they say harley davidson but the rocking mechanism is a big bolt with a large spring and friction plates. It doesnt look like it was constructed by an owner
Sounds like an earlier setup to me, but, I can't see it from here. We do show adjusting a foot clutch in our videos. We do it on my Panhead. Look around through our videos.
Yes, and it's 65-69. To do anything with the clutch, you'll need to remove the outer primary cover, unless it's been changed to a later cover. Most people do change to the later cover, but the original is sure good looking.
@@pacificmike9501 Mines a 65 I'm trying to make all original. There is a few repro parts but it's getting there. Thanks for the videos! They are all very helpful.
Fascinating stuff. How long was this on bikes before a design change eliminated the need for one of these, and was it an option or standard equipment? I really love this bike, and should I ever have a vintage "chopper" I'd want my first one to be very much like this one. It really is a luscious little gem.
The clutch booster assembly was introduced with the first Big Twin footshift in 1952. It was used through 1967. It was probably dropped to simplify the system. However, they're really nice when adjusted properly.
I would if I had one. The difference is where to set that clutch arm in relation to the inner primary housing. It is in the 59-69 Harley Davidson service manual (part no. 99482-69) . It is on page 4B-2. The large paragraph at the top left of the page.
Mike , I have a question ,What kind of (pin )goes threw the Clutch Rod & End , I say this because i have a bolt and nut on my mousetrap and it gets stuck sometimes.
Yes. The illustrations in the 59-69 service manual is what you need. What you'll need to do is adjust the clutch first, then adjust the mousetrap. In order to adjust the clutch properly on that 65, you're right, not easily visible. You'll have to get your face in there with a flashlight and set the clutch arm so that it is about 1/2" off of the starter housing when it is at rest.
Hello Mike, have a 71 FLH and had an operation on my left hand, so the mousetrap would be a great addition for me right now. Sorry to dredge this question up on an older video, but the only difference I can see between the 52-67 setup and one for a 71 is the clutch cable to actuator rod connection, seems like that should be a fairly easy DIY fix...any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated! Chuck
Order a clutch cable for a mousetrap. The easiest mousetrap for you to use is the 65-up because of the second hole on the mousetrap itself. When locating the mousetrap onto the frame, the rod has to clear the cast primary housing on the later bikes, like yours. You'll also need the clutch arm coming off your kickstarter.
Hi. Have a 1965 pan and every single part on the bike is brand new. Did the adjustment you specified like 100 times. Can never get the lever to pull to the grip and you still need 2-3 guys to pull the clutch in. All 10 springs are in the clutch hub. Is that needed? When I adjust the bell spring enough to help out the lever, then the clutch stays engaged. I have to smack the mousetrap to get it to rest back in its proper position. I see all these videos of guys pulling these in with one finger. What am I missing here?
I wish I could see it from here. Take it slow. Be sure the bellcrank goes over center as specified in the book. Look at the drawing in the book. I actually showed it according the the book. It is shown in the proper order. Start again from the beginning. Maybe your lever is improper or bent. You'll get there, I have faith. Adjust the clutch itself, first.
Mike is a great teacher and I like him and his way of sharein information I used to have a good friend Gary Woodford he would help me out when I didn’t have the tools. He passed away on my birthday in 05. He would have loved talking to you and I think you have the same demeanor. Calm and you don’t get twisted over the least thing. And it might not sound like a great review but it surely is. It’s not what we care for while we are here but it’s the trail that we leave behind. And I want to thank you for laying it out so clean. You are a treasure to all that love older Harley Davidson Motorcycles. And you are right man dose not live by one Motorcycle. Stay safe and I thank you for sharing your time and information. Best Regards Robert S Raper
Hey Mike! What if my bell crank adjusting screw isn’t making the bell crank go over center in its own? All the way in , all the way out. It moves back and forth a bit, but doesn’t force it over in its own. What may be the cause of it? Thank you sir!
Mike I've put everything back together, the clutch is nice and easy but seems to be slipping.when I pull the clutch lever in it doesn't seem to release fast enough. Is there something I can do that doesn't involve removing the outter primary cover? I hate to take the look away from the bike but I may need to install a new primary cover with a derby plate. Thanks for any input.
Okay. Back to your service manual, and we'll try to add a bit to it. First, sorry, with no derby cover ('65 to '69), you gotta remove the primary cover. The clutch release arm has to be moved back far enough to get adequate movement at the clutch. Factory says, "1/2" clearance between arm and starter motor. This means 3/8"-5/8". This is done with the center screw in the releasing disc. This is done with the cable backed off. I suspect this is where your problem is. But, I can't see it from here. Everything in that clutch has to be clean. The studs or"fingers on the clutch hub have to be smooth enough for the plates to slide. The springs have to be set at 1". Then, you may have to set them a little uneven to make it break straight. Sometimes you have to do this to offset old or worn parts. You should be able to pull in the clutch and turn the disc by hand. Then, adjust the mousetrap. Yes, it seems a little tedious, but this is old technology and takes time to learn. You'll get it and once you do, it's no big deal. By the way, disconnect the ground cable on the battery while you do this. Otherwise, the solenoid can contact, and the starter take off on it's own. Not good. Good luck, I have faith.
Man I adjusted and adjusted. Hated it. Would get hung in the engaged position. Finally saw it was so slightly dragging the clutch arm across the top of the tab that the outer primary bolts to the inner primary cover.
Love this video. Question, the nail head pulled off of the clutch lever rod on my 67 FLH. Turns out it was under constant pressure all of the time. The rod is/was 18 plus inches, so I grabbed another at a swap meet, same length. Same problem, always under constant pressure. Do you know the true length of a clutch lever rod for a stock 67 with electric start primary?
Try V-Twin catalog. The "head" on that rod does wear. It helps to keep it lubed and not under pressure when it's not being actuated. In an emergency, I've slipped about a number ten washer from the front end of that rod and slid it back to make the head large again. Got me home.
I just went out and measured it. I wasn't about to remove it. It measured (estimating how far it threaded in) 21 3/4". This stuff is a little tough to remember. You're dealing with aftermarket stuff. There are different lengths for different models. In my shop, I always had several around to choose from. Now, we need to figure it out. With a foot clutch, there appear to be two different lengths, 36-64 (for bikes with tin primaries), and 65-84 (for bikes with cast aluminum primaries). Then we have bikes that came with mousetraps. That created two lengths, 52-67 and 65-67. My Knuckle certainly didn't come with a mousetrap, so it has whatever would work. I suggest Tedd Cycle in New York. They list it all in their catalog.
I"m nominating you for Teacher of the Year award. You just have that ( I'm at a lost for words ) knack for explaining precisely how something works and to repair it. Awesome video !!
What a nice compliment! Thank you. That's the goal! Really glad you"re enjoying it.
When you see and listen to Mike he always is truthfully honest. Wonderful teacher.
Thank you.
This is best, well-organized, and understandable presentation of mousetrap adjustment I've ever seen on line. You remind me so much of my Harley mentor who taught me this procedure 50 years ago. You are a fantastic teacher--keep up the great work!
Thank you. I'm now blushing.
Nice work Mike, I'm not used to learning without yelling and screaming and wrenches flying at my head. your method worked like a charm
Cool! That's what we hope for.
Yeah that seems about right with me as well. Mike is a very patient respectable man, to bad he in California and I'm in Minnesota, lol,🤣
Hey Mike I just wanted to thank you for your knowledge and expertise. My 66 shovelhead has always had a stiff hard clutch, had several shops try to adjust it and they all said it's just the way it is. This adjustment has made it so much easier to ride the bike wich allows me more ride time. You are definitely my go to guy for any issues, ride safe brother!!
Thank you. The more you do it, the better you'll get at it. The function becomes clearer in your mind. This is old technology, which means everything is adjustable and rebuildable.
Mike, I have a 66 shovel too, but the clutch rod is not a straight shot to the clutch arm, my starter soilnoid is preventing a straight rod going through... Hope this makes sense.
Mike I adjusted the mousetrap on my 62 pan today with the help of your video. I want to thank you for sharing your experience with classic bikes
With respect J. Gordon
Glad it helped.
Mike is the best! Several years ago I struggled for hours trying to adjust the mousetrap on my panhead, finally got it but was a fight. Used Mike's instructions to set up my mousetrap on my new 66 shovel, it took as long as the video took, 12 minutes! Step by step process made it idiot proof! Thanks my west coast friend!
Thank You. That actually makes me feel good.
Through a friend I acquired a boxed 1956 Harley Big Twin that had been in storage for about 25 years, and only having had a chopped Sportster, I didn't even know where to start. Mike's tutorials have been a lifesaver, saving me many hours of trial and error. Thanks, and
much appreciated!
Thank You.
Thank you so much for this video! I’m working on my late father’s ‘61 FLH, which was his primary bike for almost 45 years. After installing a new clutch, replacement hand lever and cable, you have no idea how elated I was to see those clutch springs compress and plates move when the mousetrap was properly adjusted!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Pacific Mike. Best class on mousetrap adjustment! Thanks for passing on your knowledge.
Thank you. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Excellent clutch adjustment demonstration. I'm going to replace the mouse trap eliminator on my 66 FLH that I put on 50 years ago because I just couldn't get it right from the harley's instructions. Never to old to learn.
Thank you. Now, if I can just keep this computer working, I can answer your email. Maybe I'm not too old to learn.
very nice video,,,,,,,,,it sure brought back a lot of memories............my 58 panhead had a mousetrap and you're right ,,,,,,,,,,,,when it's adjusted RIGHT, THAT'S ONE SLICK ITEM THAT HARLEY CAME UP WITH,,,,,,,,,,BTW,,,,,,,,,,,,,you have a nice relaxing calming attitude in your videos,,,,,,,,,,,good job....................
Thank you.
awesome! I watched this, then went straight to my 62 and watched again and adjusted as per video. works perfectly! thanks dude
Thank you. That's the purpose. It's a great little mechanism.
The memories (good and bad) come flooding back when I was a kid learning to ride and work on bikes starting out on dad's old Knuckle. Thanks for taking me down memory lane and for passing on knowledge to the ones who were not as fortunate as some of us to grow up around the older bikes. Well done Mike.
Thank You.
Mike, I just bought my friend's '51 Panhead with Shovelhead top end, and unadulterated frame (complete with sidecar and tool kit mounts, etc.). Your videos--like this one--have been invaluable in familiarizing me with my new bike. Thank you!
Thank You. Glad you're enjoying it.
I feel like I am in a harley davidson course with a very wonderful teacher every time I watch one of your videos. You my friend are awesome.
Wow, thanks!
Excellent demo and video! Always enjoyed helping friends back in the 60s and 70s adjust their mousetrap. They couldn't believe how easy mine was on my 67. Just like you said, start from the beginning. As a matter of fact I just went over mine yesterday on that same 67 FLH that I bought and have ridden since 1968 when I bought it 1 1/2 yrs old while still in high school. Great training videos,keep them coming. Happy New Year. By the way, that dresser cost me my life savings at that time $1250. Lol.
Wow! That's a great story. Actually a love story, that lasts a lifetime.
I watched this video multiple times while setting up an old mousetrap... the part where you say to lube everything finally echoed. The cable too! My crusty old cable was ruining the day. Thank you for your content
Glad it helped.
I will probably never get a chance to work on bikes from this era.. however it is a pleasure learning from your channel!! I really do enjoy working on the bikes in my family and helping friends.. I truly hope you keep these coming and maybe at some point get to newer style motors and bikes
Well, I've done a lot on the channel. Check out our channel homepage. We've built Shovelhead and Evolution motors. I just prefer old stuff. But they're all there, about 115 videos.
Have been trying for years to get my revtec five speed to work with my mouse trap.This video put me on the right track, now it works like it was meant to work on my older four speed. Mucho thanks.
Glad it helped
I bought a `67 FLH in `73 while stationed in Honolulu. It was the last year for the mouse trap. Great system. I broke a clutch cable while out of town and it was a no brainer to operate the clutch using my hand on the mouse trap. Always adjusted it per the manual.
Good stuff.
Your videos are some of the best out there. I've been wrenching my whole life but mainly shovels, evos and Ironheads. I now have 2 pans and about to start on a WLC. Your videos have been life savers. Can only get so much from a manual
I use both too. I take advice and I consult the manual. Thank you for the compliment. Glad to be of service.
I recently picked up a 57Pan/Shovel with a "Mouse Trap" this is great 👍 Thank you for the lesson and the reasoning for its inventiveness.
DJ.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good demonstration of how to do this adjustment correctly from start to finish!!
Thank You. Glad you liked it.
That was awesome, you have to love a mechanism like that, getting the balance point just right makes it perfect
Thank You. Obviously, I feel the same way about it.
It’s my goal to watch every single one of your videos very informative and I’m learning a lot about the old Harley Davison‘s I currently opened a shop with my brother near Chicago this year and you’ve help me with the shovel head we are working on! Thanks again for the videos I look forward to watching them
That's great. The big deal is to identify what you have. Years and models have their differences. I need to know when asked for information. "It's a Shovelhead" ain't gonna do it.
Hey, Mike. Still binge watching your channel. When I saw your video about the tank shifters, foot clutch and "it's a suicide clutch, not a suicide shift", I wondered if you would have a video about adjusting a moustrap clutch booster. Sure enough here it is. Well explained and done. This, like many things on older Harleys is a lost art.
I'll have to look, to see if you have a video on how to set up a star hub on an older Harley. Another lost art. My 1960 Duo-Glide FLH was a badly neglected bike that sat in a puddle of water up over the axles for several years before I rescued it. What a labor of love that was. You can imagine, water got to the tires, rims, hubs, swing arm bearings, into the engine and transmission. I had to take that bike apart to the last nut and bolt. I did it over the winter '77 in New York. Scrounging parts from all over the place.
Serviceable hubs were found in one of the smaller local HD shops. And most of the needed parts, like bearings and gaskets were still sitting in the inventory of the famous but now closed "Reggie Pink" dealership in Westchester County, NY. They had an amazing amount of NOS parts in their shop. Reggie was an old time flat track racer and I was surprised to find he still had stock to put together a KR flat track race bike I picked up in crates while I was stationed at Fort Rucker, Alabama.
Anyway, maybe sometime you can show how to set up the roller bearings and side to side shimming of these hubs. Maybe explain how they use the same bearings that are used on the big end of the forked engine connecting rods. The longer bearings on the drive or brake side, shorter on the other. And they can be oversized to make a nice fit. It is an archaic system compared to the new hubs with tapered rollers, but very satisfying to do properly.
I'm digging your channel the more I watch it, thanks to you and your two cameramen.
John....
Thank You.
Man you bring back memories of Mile 58 Panhead I just love watching and listening to you work on your old bikes I got a 95 Heritage Classic nowadays but I sure miss my Panhead like to hang with you someday that would be cool
Yes, we are in it for a good time.
It was almost impossible for me to pull the clutch on my old 56 and I thought that was the way it was all these years and when I was younger I could handle it. After running through this adjustment it works much better and I can actually pull it with ease. Its still a bit stiff but I think I have the clutch basket springs on the tight side. Plenty of meat on the plates and I cleaned sanded and reinstalled like in another of your vids. I have had this old bike sitting in the corner of the garage and thought it was time to fire it up again. I wont know if the clutch can be backed off or not until another week or 2 waiting on a few parts. Last time I fired it up about 6 years ago it was spewing oil out of somewhere and I just put it back in the corner and bought a KTM690. Sold the Duke about 4 years ago and now its back to the Panhead. Watching your videos has helped me out in a big way. Thank you Pacific Mike.
That's great to hear. Thank You.
I cringe when I have to make this adjustment, only because my '67 has no derby cover. Your step by step certainly simplifies understanding what to do, kudos on that!
Thank You. That is the hope.
Takes me back to days when I first started to ride. You are right many people don't know about a mousetrap, or suicide shift.
It's a "Suicide Clutch," not "Suicide Shift."
Thanks Mike for an easily understandable great video. I have the shop manuals for my references but I guess its my ADHD that makes it a little harder to understand. Seeing you work is by far the easiest way for me to learn. I just discovered your videos a couple weeks ago and you have ignited a fire under me to get back to work on my 51 El. With your videos, I see myself going further into it feeling more confident than ever before. Keep up the great work and I love your motorcycles as well.
Thank You. I wish you success with it.
Thanks brother for the great video . My good partner was the king of mouse traps but he’s gone now with all the knowledge. With your helping some patience I was able to adjust my mouse trap after studying your video many times over and it’s working great ! Thanks again be safe !
Glad to help. Sorry for your loss.
You explain this so much better than the HD manual.
Thank you. But, I'm basically saying the same thing.
Thank you. But, I'm basically saying the same thing.
This is a much better explanation than the Service Manual. Mine actually works properly now. Thank you Squire.
Thank you.
Hi Mike, been watching all the video's I can with regards to Panheads never too old to learn I especially like this one on the Clutch Booster or Mousetrap. Now its off to the shed and hope I don't catch my fingers. Appreciate all your visual help and the easy way in which you explain each maintenance task. Rgds from West Australia. Johnno
Great to hear! Thank You.
You are very good at explaining adjustments and are easy to listen to.thank you
Thank You. That is the goal.
@@pacificmike9501 you are the best ive heard. Ive been riding scooters since 1972. A and you know what your talking about
Thank You.
Keep the videos coming sir you are a great hands on instructor/teacher. Thank you.
Thanks, will do!
In 1972 I had a 1955 panhead, I set up the mousetrap without all these instructions, seems like alot of stuff for the mechanically inept. Seeking advice on torking the head bolts I called an old Harley mechanic I knew. He laughed and told me "tighten down the head bolts till the heads snap off and back off a quarter turn. This is how we worked on those Harleys back then. We knew our motors.
After many years, I've tried to improve. My bikes run better than they used to. I've tried to learn and share what I've learned. In '69, I built a 58 Sportster for myself from a $200.00 basket case. I've improved from there. I hope to get better from here.
Great video, thanks. I took the mousetrap off my '66 and now have it on my' 72. Also nice to have if the cable breaks, you still have the mousetrap. They really thought things out back then.
Yes they did. They really produced some detailed stuff.
Awesome! Thanks. I was under the impression that mousetraps were supposed to hold the clutch without a hand on the lever. Then tap it again to release. This makes more sense.
Cool. They really do take very little effort to operate, when adjusted properly.
@@pacificmike9501 appreciate your knowledge. Just picked up a Pan a couple days ago!
Congratulations!
Mike you rock!!! followed your instructions and finally overcome the difficulties with the mousetrap. Thank you very much!!
I'm glad it worked for you. I think they're a great contraption. Happy Holidays.
Thank you Mike and Mike . Just put mousetrap and foot shift setup on my old knucklehead. This video really helped.
Cool. Glad it helped.
Appropriately named !
Great info! Mine adjusted right up when I did it like you instructed... many thanks!
I'm glad! That's the purpose of the videos. Glad we could help.
Very instructional! I am rebuilding my 1964 panhead. It looks like your bell crank assembly is 65 to 67. The end of your clutch rod is on the left hand side. Mine mounts on the other side. A discovery I made, the clutch booster bracket has to be oriented correctly so the clutch lever rod does not interfere or hit against the end of the shifter. Hopefully this makes sense? Great video for a tricky operation.
You got it. Just pay attention and it will tell you what it needs.
Man you are the greatest. You have a way of teaching so it's easy to understand and do. Your videos are the greatest. Plus you work on a bunch of PANHEADS
Thank You.
Mike, I enjoyed your adjustment video. I am only one of a few in North Alabama that can adjust the mousetrap clutch. You did it identical to how I do it, and basically the panhead manual. One thing you didn't mention was why they called it a mousetrap. When you have your hand in there, it will slam shut on your hand, and that hurts! Great video!
Thanks 👍
very good tutorial on the mousetrap!For some reason, many people pitched them and put on Barnett Mouse Trap Eliminator kits because they never could get the booster adjusted properly ( scooped up a lot of boosters, really cheap back then). It's bit of a process, but well worth it, to me, and as you just showed, it's not THAT big of a process (you just did it in under 13 minutes, and that was with explanations), if you take your time, and do it in the proper order (that is the key). Mousetrap and Panhead external oil filter have always been an absolute must have on ALL my builds back in the day. Not only are they practical and functional, but they look neat as hell. Nice Job Mike!
Thank You.
Thanks Mike, you're an excellent teacher. I wrote down what you said and now have a clearer procedure that I'm looking forward to trying on Rosie my Panhead (...she likes the attention). Also bought a 3/8" flex head ratchet from watching you work on another video.
Cool. Think about it, when you're not there, and the bikes are alone, what do you think they talk about?
WoW ! Love this contraption. The way you explained its adjustment is thoroughly thought through and so easy to understand. Thank you 👍
You're very welcome!
I finally got around to adjusting mine. first time ever doing so and what an experience! It took me most of the day and several tries but I finally got it. The thing that kept messing me up is I couldn't get it done right at 4 1/4 . Right now it's at 3 and three quarters. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but everything seems to be working good. I'll test ride it tomorrow and see
That measurement is a recommendation by Harley's service manual. After enough years, we have different clutches, maybe a clutch arm that's been modified a little, a lot of variables. That measurement is for a nice "mechanical advantage." It gives nice leverage. These adjustments are not written in stone. Have a good ride.
Now you have me thinking. Quit it. Maybe your throwout bearing rod is not going in far enough. Maybe your problem is in the kicker cover. If it works well now, who cares? But if you need more travel from that arm, one can get quite creative.
Great video to set up a mouse trap and I love mine you have a wonderful way of explaining what you have to do. Keep it up and thanks again for your service to all of us that love our motors
You do a great job Mike and I appreciate that...your very precise with your instructions...There aren't a lot of guys out there who want to take the time to make a video..Keep making them..Jim in Scottsdale, AZ.
I appreciate that!
You're a wonderful teacher, Mike! Cheers from Vietnam 🇻🇳
Wow, thank you!
@@pacificmike9501 actually i'm not owning a Harley yet, but i ride classic motorcycles a lot since a teenager and luckily I found me a great mechanic who fix up my bikes and also taught me to fix my bike at home exactly like the way you do, so gentle and carefully. Btw I'm riding a 2002 Yamaha SR400, it is a really good bike to me hehe
Thank you...another excellent video. I must of read my Panhead manual a hundred times and it still made no sense. I'm gonna head out to the shop right now to adjust my Mouse trap. Cheers!
Good luck! If you like it, cool. If not, start at the beginning, and do it again.
Just to let you know....the clutch now works like a champ! It's wonderful not breaking into a sweat at stop lights anymore. Again, thanks for the tutorial.
I'm really glad. The more you do clutches, the better you'll get. I try to help, but there's no substitute for experience. And now, you have experience. Way cool.
In the late 1970s many of my friends were running mousetraps on panheads. I had a 1973 FL Police Special with a jockey top hand shift and a friction plate foot clutch. I could never get the hand shift linkage adjusted right so I was always grinding years. I put a ratchet top on it but kept the foot clutch, shifting with a lever under my butt.
Sounds familiar. That was a cool thing to do. Kinda still is.
Thank you for your time. Your video really do help out. I'm restoring a 66 FLH.
Thank You. Glad to hear it. That's a pretty special bike. Enjoy it.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos and pass on a wealth of experience!
Thank you. Glad you enjoy it.
Good stuff Mike, nice to see sum videos on the Old Iron, ran across ur videos today & very much enjoyed them
Cool. Thank you.
I'm loving these videos! Thank you so much for all the in depth details and how to do, I myself don't own a bike yet, although been tempting to own one for many years, still I haven't got a license for one and have no knowledge about motors or such, always wished I knew someone that had knowledge about bikes and repairs, but perhaps could learn a bit here and there after watching youe videos. :) Greetings from Sweden.
Greetings! And, Thank You. There seems to be a lot of bike building in Sweden, but I've never been there. I had some friends that used to visit from Sweden. They were incredible fun.
Well Mike: I have Learnt alot today, never sean a 'Mouse-Trap' like that before. Usless for catching Mice, but really great for those long days in the sadel.
I think I would need to right all this down before trying to do the job. Its a lovelly Bike though. Old school with all the mod cons for todays riding!
Thank you.
Thank You. You know, it's all written in the service manual. I still do it with the book open. They installed them on big twins from 52-67. People took them off because they couldn't understand how to adjust them. Very sad. But fun today.
thanks mike, always a mistery to me about adjustment on my 53, so i went to a clutch elemenator, which works great
I understand. But, set properly, the mousetrap is such an easy pull, and locks up so easily. I've actually gone back into people's bikes and reinstalled mousetraps and made them real happy.
Hi there Pacific Mike, that Mouse trap,looks quite an invention by Harley,,thanks again friend for your fine work😊😊😊
Thank You.
thanks Mike, been fighting my mousetrap for the best part of an hour. Made the mistake of starting 1/2 way through, will apply your clear instructions (and calm manner). cheers
I have faith in you. You'll get it.
I wish I would have seen this about 40 plus years ago, that said very nicely done
Thank You.
I’m not big on the colour yellow but that bike in that shade of yellow is beautiful. Thanks for all the videos I’ve learned alot
Glad you like them!
Wow. Thanks so much for this video. I never realized that it should be very light to move the clutch lever like that. With one finger. I need to use four fingers to actuate. Back to it I guess.
Yea, lube it every place metal moves against metal, and start at the beginning. Do it "til you like it. Thank you.
Thank's Mike for your great work , very informative . You have helped me keep my old bike running as it should. You are better than a manual. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you. Wonderful compliments. But, don't discount the service manual. It was put together by professionals. If you look at your manual long enough, you will start thinking like it and you'll love it. I traveled several states on a new Shovelhead many years ago. Didn't quite understand that "modern" bike. I had my service manual with me the whole time in my saddlebag. It was priceless to me.
I was going to reply about adjusting the clutch booster from another video of yours and decided just to search it out and you have it and it's funny when I had my clutch booster on my 62 Panhead a lot of bikers were telling me to take it off I said hell no man, by the way as you can see my name is also Michael and in the 80s I was a motorcycle mechanic my boss worked on Rice burners and then when he got married into the his wife father owned Brooklyn and Hempstead Harley-Davidson then we started working on Harleys, it was great back then we used to work until like 2 in the morning and not even realize it.
Rather infectious disease, isn't it? My "x-wife" used to say "all Mikes are born with horns and tails."
I think you are a very good teacher and I would love to see a video on the old cast iron oil pumps I have a 55 panhead and I have burnished the oil pump and I still have a oil leak and I’m sure you could show me what I am missing. I thank you for sharing your information and your knuckle head is very nice to I love the old bikes and the cast iron pump is a very good part and I would never want anything else on my Panhead and I run the mousetrap and you explain it so well Best Regards Robert S Raper
We have to do them as they come up. But, my Panhead still has her original pump. Haven't had it apart in several years. But, she currently needs a trans seal. We'll be getting to that pretty soon. Thanks. We'll get to everything sooner or later. We just don't take stuff apart until it needs it.
I would not want you to take a oil pump that has no problem. Just hoping I’m sure that you can show me the thing I’m not getting. But i may grind the seat with tooth paste and try to burnish it again. You never are to old to learn something that i don’t know. And you have a great way of explaining things so that they are easy to understand.
Thank you. I assume you're speaking of the ball and seat that keep the oil in the tank, instead of the crankcase. I've seen it done so many ways. I remember a piece of welding rod with a brand new ball welded to it and very fine valve lapping compound. If you try that one, thorough cleaning before reassembly. In my shop, years ago (everything Evo back to Knuckle), I'd get calls every spring from people whose bikes had "wet-sumped" all over their garage floor. I'd explain it, then tell them to put a pan under their bike if it was gonna sit for long periods of time. They all do it, it's just a matter of how much, and how often. Sometimes, just a new ball and spring does wonders.
Great video! Thanks so much for the information, Mike. I am putting a mousetrap back on the '67 chopper I am currently building. It's always had a direct cable until now.
Cool. Once you get it dialed in, you'll love it.
Good video! My old '47 Knucklehead had this system! 👍
Works good, huh.
Love the videos Mike, very relaxing and I always learn something, have a blessed week my friend.
Thanks, you too!
Nice! Hope to see the same on the shovel build. Thanks!
Also, what are you supposed to do with the clutch rod and lock nut under the derby cover after getting the cable adjusted?
We already did the shovelhead primary, no mousetrap, not necessary with the clutch we're using. We continue to do things as they come up. Hope you find this stuff useful to you.
Nothing. It should be adjusted to put the arm in the right position, then locked down. Always leave a little play in the arm to keep from wearing out the throwout bearing prematurely. Then adjust the mousetrap in the proper sequence.
We do this stuff as it comes up and we think it will benefit someone. But there will be more on the Shovel. And thank you for watching.
i wonder if that system would work on a Shovelhead 76 stock frame just for looks. It is so cool.
Looks? These things are an absolute pleasure to use. That's why they were invented. Sure, it would work on a 76. You can buy a reproduction (V-Twin carries them) or use an original. Treat your 76 (as far as parts, i.e. mousetrap, cable, clutch rod, and clutch arm, as if it were a 65-67 unit. The parts should all work.
@@pacificmike9501 OK thanks for getting back to me on this. you Mike are a great help.
You're quite welcome.
Thanks Mike! This was perfect as I rehabilitate a 1966 FL. I found a hole at the front end of the clutch lever rod end. It looks like it _should_ have a zerk, but I'm given to understand that the factory intended us to pump a little oil in there now and again. Does this sound right? I'd rather have a zerk, but there's not really enough depth to thread one in.
You are correct. It s an oil hole. I have a tendency to pull it off and grease it with some good bearing grease. It's just routine stuff when I'm playing with it.
Great explanation for a stock bike but let's not forget the dreaded "A" word (aftermarket) ! There is probably 10 different lengths of clutch release levers & control rods, not to mention 2 different rod end holes and where the trap is clamped to the frame. I wish I could have watched this back when I was pulling the ends off cables & threads off the control rods 😞 Thanks Mike
Thank You. Remember, "aftermarket stuff" is way better than nothing to work with. The two different holes are for two different applications. They are bikes with tin primaries, and the bikes with aluminum primaries and electric starters. I tried to simplify the mousetrap a little. They sure are nice when properly adjusted and maintained.
@@pacificmike9501 they are not too hard to look at either, with or without the cover.
Thanks Mike
I owe you a beer Mike! My 56 FLH mousetrap is working so much better now!
Cool!
I have a 1959 Pan/Shovel and i just got it back from a friend who i sold it to , My mouse trap keeps getting stuck on the two nuts that holds the u bracket to the frame , I was looking at the part that holds the rod end looks to be bent in ,So i took it off and maybe i can straighten it out , so it won't hit or get stuck , it use to work really good....Dang it
I have faith. Be careful. It will again be great. Just don't try to bend anything with it assembled. You could break the aluminum bracket.
Mike, what would make the perfect Harley?
Most comfortable, Most Reliable, Best year all in one bike.. what would that bike be?
What model?
What year?
What size motor?
Basically the perfect build in your opinion if price and availability of parts was no issue?
Could this perfect build be capable of 200,000 miles if ( meticulously, obsessively maintained ) with no major repairs? Cylinder honing, Trans rebuild etc?
This is old machinery. It's really about "smiles per mile." A Shovelhead runs like a Shovelhead. A Knucklehead runs like a Knucklehead. They're all different. My Panhead is a sweet natured old "do anything" bike that's loads of fun to ride. My Knucklehead is a period chopper, not for the faint hearted, certainly an "E Ticket" ride. They're all different. Best? Best at what, on what day, for what occasion?
Pacific Mike Best cruiser, best at reliability, best at comfort, a bike you can ride 10 hours and your back won’t hurt.
Fantastic coverage on the " mouse trap assembly !! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
You bet. I hope it was helpful.
Mike I hope that in the near future you will add a way to support your wonderful work and it’s a great service you so kindly give. I would love to help you with some money and I’m sure that you would be surprised pleasantly. I had a good friend Gary Woodford. And he had the same easy way about him he passed away on my birthday 9-27-05 and I have a 05 police bike and I call it woddy. But I degress you a great teacher. And Gary helped me out a lot. Best Regards Robert S Raper
Thank You, Steve. It took me a bit of time to answer your letter. The name "Gary Woodford," struck a note. I honestly don't remember meeting him, but, I feel very complimented just the same. Quite a few years back, I met Randy Simpson at the V-Twin Expo in Cincinatti. We had quite a conversation. Having been in the bike business a long time, we had been doing business and it was great to meet him in person. All the TV stuff was in full bloom at that point. But, it was a great conversation. Randy was sitting on a bike, posing for pictures. He was getting a real kick out of the whole thing. The coolest thing was this little boy who wanted his picture taken with the famous biker. Randy treated that child like only a real good guy knows how to do. It was great. And, that's what happens when you jog My memory. I'm truly sorry you've lost Gary. Before my best friend passed in 03, we made each other a promise that we'd eventually open another shop together.
I introduced Gary to Randy who was a childhood friend Gary was afraid of Randy. He was always loud I didn’t pay much attention to that. I helped him start in his mother’s basement. I told Randy that the old guys called the motorcycles. Milwaukee Iron and a state trooper is the owner of Milwaukee iron 2 It’s in Mertill Beach South Carolina. He handled Randy when he was doing some coportaing with the police. He comes from Lynchburg Virginia where he was known as Honest Floyd at least he was by the people who knew him. I would restore the old motors. And Gary would be thinking of something that was a pleasure to watch. I thank you for sharing and being so kind. Best Regards Robert S Raper
I know I have already left a comment on this video, but at some point in time if possible could you show an up close video of the bar and riser set up on the Knuckle? Thank you Mike, your channel is fantastic 👏 👍
It is just standard old Flanders stuff. The handlebars are Flanders Drag Bars (still available through several suppliers).
The risers are no longer produced by Flanders, but V-Twin (Ted Cycle) out of New York is reproducing them.
@@pacificmike9501 Appreciate the information. Thank you.
Thank You
I'm curious if I can get some help,
My name is Fox and I got a 1949 harley from my father but alot of it is unassembled and the foot clutch looks different from anything i have seen. It has square foot rests instead of round and they say harley davidson but the rocking mechanism is a big bolt with a large spring and friction plates. It doesnt look like it was constructed by an owner
Sounds like an earlier setup to me, but, I can't see it from here. We do show adjusting a foot clutch in our videos. We do it on my Panhead. Look around through our videos.
Could I give my email to you and perhaps send some photos?
much appreciated by this guy.
And, we appreciate you.
I'm guessing that on the 65-67 the primary cover would need to be removed first since there isn't a derby cover.
Yes, and it's 65-69. To do anything with the clutch, you'll need to remove the outer primary cover, unless it's been changed to a later cover. Most people do change to the later cover, but the original is sure good looking.
@@pacificmike9501 Mines a 65 I'm trying to make all original. There is a few repro parts but it's getting there. Thanks for the videos! They are all very helpful.
Don't forget, a 65 only has a plug to remove to give access to lube the compensator. Glad you enjoy our videos.
Fascinating stuff. How long was this on bikes before a design change eliminated the need for one of these, and was it an option or standard equipment? I really love this bike, and should I ever have a vintage "chopper" I'd want my first one to be very much like this one. It really is a luscious little gem.
The clutch booster assembly was introduced with the first Big Twin footshift in 1952. It was used through 1967. It was probably dropped to simplify the system. However, they're really nice when adjusted properly.
Hi Mike, Could you show this adjustment on a model with a starter? Thanks!
I would if I had one. The difference is where to set that clutch arm in relation to the inner primary housing. It is in the 59-69 Harley Davidson service manual (part no. 99482-69) . It is on page 4B-2. The large paragraph at the top left of the page.
Mike , I have a question ,What kind of (pin )goes threw the Clutch Rod & End , I say this because i have a bolt and nut on my mousetrap and it gets stuck sometimes.
I believe the mousetrap had a permanent pin. I would probably try a step bolt from a handshift.
Whoever invented that mousetrap should have had his name stamped into every one. Pure genius.
I think they're great too. Easy Pull.
Great video for an early model mousetrap but is their a trick for a '65 where the trans arm and clutch are not easily visible(behind starter). Thanks!
Yes. The illustrations in the 59-69 service manual is what you need. What you'll need to do is adjust the clutch first, then adjust the mousetrap. In order to adjust the clutch properly on that 65, you're right, not easily visible. You'll have to get your face in there with a flashlight and set the clutch arm so that it is about 1/2" off of the starter housing when it is at rest.
Mike,
I have a 77 shovelhead lowrider fxs. Any tips on removal and reinstall of clutch cable ?
Love the videos
Not really. The book will do you right. However, I hang a new cable on the wall and fill it with "Break Free" overnight, then install it.
Hello Mike, have a 71 FLH and had an operation on my left hand, so the mousetrap would be a great addition for me right now. Sorry to dredge this question up on an older video, but the only difference I can see between the 52-67 setup and one for a 71 is the clutch cable to actuator rod connection, seems like that should be a fairly easy DIY fix...any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated!
Chuck
Order a clutch cable for a mousetrap. The easiest mousetrap for you to use is the 65-up because of the second hole on the mousetrap itself. When locating the mousetrap onto the frame, the rod has to clear the cast primary housing on the later bikes, like yours. You'll also need the clutch arm coming off your kickstarter.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you very much , Mike, love your videos!
Thank You.
I love your vids mike, the best out there yet, just keep em coming and we will keep on watching, thanks mike😁
Thank You.
Hi. Have a 1965 pan and every single part on the bike is brand new. Did the adjustment you specified like 100 times. Can never get the lever to pull to the grip and you still need 2-3 guys to pull the clutch in. All 10 springs are in the clutch hub. Is that needed? When I adjust the bell spring enough to help out the lever, then the clutch stays engaged. I have to smack the mousetrap to get it to rest back in its proper position. I see all these videos of guys pulling these in with one finger. What am I missing here?
I wish I could see it from here. Take it slow. Be sure the bellcrank goes over center as specified in the book. Look at the drawing in the book. I actually showed it according the the book. It is shown in the proper order. Start again from the beginning. Maybe your lever is improper or bent. You'll get there, I have faith. Adjust the clutch itself, first.
Mike is a great teacher and I like him and his way of sharein information I used to have a good friend Gary Woodford he would help me out when I didn’t have the tools. He passed away on my birthday in 05. He would have loved talking to you and I think you have the same demeanor. Calm and you don’t get twisted over the least thing. And it might not sound like a great review but it surely is. It’s not what we care for while we are here but it’s the trail that we leave behind. And I want to thank you for laying it out so clean. You are a treasure to all that love older Harley Davidson Motorcycles. And you are right man dose not live by one Motorcycle. Stay safe and I thank you for sharing your time and information. Best Regards Robert S Raper
Hey Mike!
What if my bell crank adjusting screw isn’t making the bell crank go over center in its own? All the way in , all the way out. It moves back and forth a bit, but doesn’t force it over in its own.
What may be the cause of it?
Thank you sir!
Is the screw too short?
Mike I've put everything back together, the clutch is nice and easy but seems to be slipping.when I pull the clutch lever in it doesn't seem to release fast enough. Is there something I can do that doesn't involve removing the outter primary cover? I hate to take the look away from the bike but I may need to install a new primary cover with a derby plate. Thanks for any input.
Okay. Back to your service manual, and we'll try to add a bit to it. First, sorry, with no derby cover ('65 to '69), you gotta remove the primary cover. The clutch release arm has to be moved back far enough to get adequate movement at the clutch. Factory says, "1/2" clearance between arm and starter motor. This means 3/8"-5/8". This is done with the center screw in the releasing disc. This is done with the cable backed off. I suspect this is where your problem is. But, I can't see it from here. Everything in that clutch has to be clean. The studs or"fingers on the clutch hub have to be smooth enough for the plates to slide. The springs have to be set at 1". Then, you may have to set them a little uneven to make it break straight. Sometimes you have to do this to offset old or worn parts. You should be able to pull in the clutch and turn the disc by hand. Then, adjust the mousetrap. Yes, it seems a little tedious, but this is old technology and takes time to learn. You'll get it and once you do, it's no big deal. By the way, disconnect the ground cable on the battery while you do this. Otherwise, the solenoid can contact, and the starter take off on it's own. Not good. Good luck, I have faith.
Holy cow. Outstanding video
Glad you liked it!
Man I adjusted and adjusted. Hated it. Would get hung in the engaged position. Finally saw it was so slightly dragging the clutch arm across the top of the tab that the outer primary bolts to the inner primary cover.
Love this video. Question, the nail head pulled off of the clutch lever rod on my 67 FLH. Turns out it was under constant pressure all of the time. The rod is/was 18 plus inches, so I grabbed another at a swap meet, same length.
Same problem, always under constant pressure. Do you know the true length of a clutch lever rod for a stock 67 with electric start primary?
Try V-Twin catalog. The "head" on that rod does wear. It helps to keep it lubed and not under pressure when it's not being actuated. In an emergency, I've slipped about a number ten washer from the front end of that rod and slid it back to make the head large again. Got me home.
Thank you very much for you videos, they are very helpful.
Could I ask what the length of your clutch rod is? It looks longer than stock.
I just went out and measured it. I wasn't about to remove it. It measured (estimating how far it threaded in) 21 3/4". This stuff is a little tough to remember. You're dealing with aftermarket stuff. There are different lengths for different models. In my shop, I always had several around to choose from. Now, we need to figure it out. With a foot clutch, there appear to be two different lengths, 36-64 (for bikes with tin primaries), and 65-84 (for bikes with cast aluminum primaries). Then we have bikes that came with mousetraps. That created two lengths, 52-67 and 65-67. My Knuckle certainly didn't come with a mousetrap, so it has whatever would work. I suggest Tedd Cycle in New York. They list it all in their catalog.
You can still buy this new ?
V-Twin (Tedd Cycle) has reproductions of the mousetrap and related hardware.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks mike I need bad!!!