I"m nominating you for Teacher of the Year award. You just have that ( I'm at a lost for words ) knack for explaining precisely how something works and to repair it. Awesome video !!
This is best, well-organized, and understandable presentation of mousetrap adjustment I've ever seen on line. You remind me so much of my Harley mentor who taught me this procedure 50 years ago. You are a fantastic teacher--keep up the great work!
Hey Mike I just wanted to thank you for your knowledge and expertise. My 66 shovelhead has always had a stiff hard clutch, had several shops try to adjust it and they all said it's just the way it is. This adjustment has made it so much easier to ride the bike wich allows me more ride time. You are definitely my go to guy for any issues, ride safe brother!!
Thank you. The more you do it, the better you'll get at it. The function becomes clearer in your mind. This is old technology, which means everything is adjustable and rebuildable.
Mike, I have a 66 shovel too, but the clutch rod is not a straight shot to the clutch arm, my starter soilnoid is preventing a straight rod going through... Hope this makes sense.
Mike I adjusted the mousetrap on my 62 pan today with the help of your video. I want to thank you for sharing your experience with classic bikes With respect J. Gordon
Mike is the best! Several years ago I struggled for hours trying to adjust the mousetrap on my panhead, finally got it but was a fight. Used Mike's instructions to set up my mousetrap on my new 66 shovel, it took as long as the video took, 12 minutes! Step by step process made it idiot proof! Thanks my west coast friend!
Through a friend I acquired a boxed 1956 Harley Big Twin that had been in storage for about 25 years, and only having had a chopped Sportster, I didn't even know where to start. Mike's tutorials have been a lifesaver, saving me many hours of trial and error. Thanks, and much appreciated!
I cringe when I have to make this adjustment, only because my '67 has no derby cover. Your step by step certainly simplifies understanding what to do, kudos on that!
Man you bring back memories of Mile 58 Panhead I just love watching and listening to you work on your old bikes I got a 95 Heritage Classic nowadays but I sure miss my Panhead like to hang with you someday that would be cool
Thank you so much for this video! I’m working on my late father’s ‘61 FLH, which was his primary bike for almost 45 years. After installing a new clutch, replacement hand lever and cable, you have no idea how elated I was to see those clutch springs compress and plates move when the mousetrap was properly adjusted!
Have been trying for years to get my revtec five speed to work with my mouse trap.This video put me on the right track, now it works like it was meant to work on my older four speed. Mucho thanks.
very nice video,,,,,,,,,it sure brought back a lot of memories............my 58 panhead had a mousetrap and you're right ,,,,,,,,,,,,when it's adjusted RIGHT, THAT'S ONE SLICK ITEM THAT HARLEY CAME UP WITH,,,,,,,,,,BTW,,,,,,,,,,,,,you have a nice relaxing calming attitude in your videos,,,,,,,,,,,good job....................
I bought a `67 FLH in `73 while stationed in Honolulu. It was the last year for the mouse trap. Great system. I broke a clutch cable while out of town and it was a no brainer to operate the clutch using my hand on the mouse trap. Always adjusted it per the manual.
The memories (good and bad) come flooding back when I was a kid learning to ride and work on bikes starting out on dad's old Knuckle. Thanks for taking me down memory lane and for passing on knowledge to the ones who were not as fortunate as some of us to grow up around the older bikes. Well done Mike.
I watched this video multiple times while setting up an old mousetrap... the part where you say to lube everything finally echoed. The cable too! My crusty old cable was ruining the day. Thank you for your content
In 1972 I had a 1955 panhead, I set up the mousetrap without all these instructions, seems like alot of stuff for the mechanically inept. Seeking advice on torking the head bolts I called an old Harley mechanic I knew. He laughed and told me "tighten down the head bolts till the heads snap off and back off a quarter turn. This is how we worked on those Harleys back then. We knew our motors.
After many years, I've tried to improve. My bikes run better than they used to. I've tried to learn and share what I've learned. In '69, I built a 58 Sportster for myself from a $200.00 basket case. I've improved from there. I hope to get better from here.
Excellent clutch adjustment demonstration. I'm going to replace the mouse trap eliminator on my 66 FLH that I put on 50 years ago because I just couldn't get it right from the harley's instructions. Never to old to learn.
I will probably never get a chance to work on bikes from this era.. however it is a pleasure learning from your channel!! I really do enjoy working on the bikes in my family and helping friends.. I truly hope you keep these coming and maybe at some point get to newer style motors and bikes
Well, I've done a lot on the channel. Check out our channel homepage. We've built Shovelhead and Evolution motors. I just prefer old stuff. But they're all there, about 115 videos.
Mike, I just bought my friend's '51 Panhead with Shovelhead top end, and unadulterated frame (complete with sidecar and tool kit mounts, etc.). Your videos--like this one--have been invaluable in familiarizing me with my new bike. Thank you!
Excellent demo and video! Always enjoyed helping friends back in the 60s and 70s adjust their mousetrap. They couldn't believe how easy mine was on my 67. Just like you said, start from the beginning. As a matter of fact I just went over mine yesterday on that same 67 FLH that I bought and have ridden since 1968 when I bought it 1 1/2 yrs old while still in high school. Great training videos,keep them coming. Happy New Year. By the way, that dresser cost me my life savings at that time $1250. Lol.
It’s my goal to watch every single one of your videos very informative and I’m learning a lot about the old Harley Davison‘s I currently opened a shop with my brother near Chicago this year and you’ve help me with the shovel head we are working on! Thanks again for the videos I look forward to watching them
That's great. The big deal is to identify what you have. Years and models have their differences. I need to know when asked for information. "It's a Shovelhead" ain't gonna do it.
Man you are the greatest. You have a way of teaching so it's easy to understand and do. Your videos are the greatest. Plus you work on a bunch of PANHEADS
It was almost impossible for me to pull the clutch on my old 56 and I thought that was the way it was all these years and when I was younger I could handle it. After running through this adjustment it works much better and I can actually pull it with ease. Its still a bit stiff but I think I have the clutch basket springs on the tight side. Plenty of meat on the plates and I cleaned sanded and reinstalled like in another of your vids. I have had this old bike sitting in the corner of the garage and thought it was time to fire it up again. I wont know if the clutch can be backed off or not until another week or 2 waiting on a few parts. Last time I fired it up about 6 years ago it was spewing oil out of somewhere and I just put it back in the corner and bought a KTM690. Sold the Duke about 4 years ago and now its back to the Panhead. Watching your videos has helped me out in a big way. Thank you Pacific Mike.
Hey, Mike. Still binge watching your channel. When I saw your video about the tank shifters, foot clutch and "it's a suicide clutch, not a suicide shift", I wondered if you would have a video about adjusting a moustrap clutch booster. Sure enough here it is. Well explained and done. This, like many things on older Harleys is a lost art. I'll have to look, to see if you have a video on how to set up a star hub on an older Harley. Another lost art. My 1960 Duo-Glide FLH was a badly neglected bike that sat in a puddle of water up over the axles for several years before I rescued it. What a labor of love that was. You can imagine, water got to the tires, rims, hubs, swing arm bearings, into the engine and transmission. I had to take that bike apart to the last nut and bolt. I did it over the winter '77 in New York. Scrounging parts from all over the place. Serviceable hubs were found in one of the smaller local HD shops. And most of the needed parts, like bearings and gaskets were still sitting in the inventory of the famous but now closed "Reggie Pink" dealership in Westchester County, NY. They had an amazing amount of NOS parts in their shop. Reggie was an old time flat track racer and I was surprised to find he still had stock to put together a KR flat track race bike I picked up in crates while I was stationed at Fort Rucker, Alabama. Anyway, maybe sometime you can show how to set up the roller bearings and side to side shimming of these hubs. Maybe explain how they use the same bearings that are used on the big end of the forked engine connecting rods. The longer bearings on the drive or brake side, shorter on the other. And they can be oversized to make a nice fit. It is an archaic system compared to the new hubs with tapered rollers, but very satisfying to do properly. I'm digging your channel the more I watch it, thanks to you and your two cameramen. John....
Very instructional! I am rebuilding my 1964 panhead. It looks like your bell crank assembly is 65 to 67. The end of your clutch rod is on the left hand side. Mine mounts on the other side. A discovery I made, the clutch booster bracket has to be oriented correctly so the clutch lever rod does not interfere or hit against the end of the shifter. Hopefully this makes sense? Great video for a tricky operation.
Your videos are some of the best out there. I've been wrenching my whole life but mainly shovels, evos and Ironheads. I now have 2 pans and about to start on a WLC. Your videos have been life savers. Can only get so much from a manual
Thanks Mike for an easily understandable great video. I have the shop manuals for my references but I guess its my ADHD that makes it a little harder to understand. Seeing you work is by far the easiest way for me to learn. I just discovered your videos a couple weeks ago and you have ignited a fire under me to get back to work on my 51 El. With your videos, I see myself going further into it feeling more confident than ever before. Keep up the great work and I love your motorcycles as well.
Hi Mike, been watching all the video's I can with regards to Panheads never too old to learn I especially like this one on the Clutch Booster or Mousetrap. Now its off to the shed and hope I don't catch my fingers. Appreciate all your visual help and the easy way in which you explain each maintenance task. Rgds from West Australia. Johnno
Awesome! Thanks. I was under the impression that mousetraps were supposed to hold the clutch without a hand on the lever. Then tap it again to release. This makes more sense.
@@pacificmike9501 actually i'm not owning a Harley yet, but i ride classic motorcycles a lot since a teenager and luckily I found me a great mechanic who fix up my bikes and also taught me to fix my bike at home exactly like the way you do, so gentle and carefully. Btw I'm riding a 2002 Yamaha SR400, it is a really good bike to me hehe
Great video, thanks. I took the mousetrap off my '66 and now have it on my' 72. Also nice to have if the cable breaks, you still have the mousetrap. They really thought things out back then.
Thanks brother for the great video . My good partner was the king of mouse traps but he’s gone now with all the knowledge. With your helping some patience I was able to adjust my mouse trap after studying your video many times over and it’s working great ! Thanks again be safe !
Thanks Mike, you're an excellent teacher. I wrote down what you said and now have a clearer procedure that I'm looking forward to trying on Rosie my Panhead (...she likes the attention). Also bought a 3/8" flex head ratchet from watching you work on another video.
You do a great job Mike and I appreciate that...your very precise with your instructions...There aren't a lot of guys out there who want to take the time to make a video..Keep making them..Jim in Scottsdale, AZ.
Mike, I enjoyed your adjustment video. I am only one of a few in North Alabama that can adjust the mousetrap clutch. You did it identical to how I do it, and basically the panhead manual. One thing you didn't mention was why they called it a mousetrap. When you have your hand in there, it will slam shut on your hand, and that hurts! Great video!
I'm loving these videos! Thank you so much for all the in depth details and how to do, I myself don't own a bike yet, although been tempting to own one for many years, still I haven't got a license for one and have no knowledge about motors or such, always wished I knew someone that had knowledge about bikes and repairs, but perhaps could learn a bit here and there after watching youe videos. :) Greetings from Sweden.
Greetings! And, Thank You. There seems to be a lot of bike building in Sweden, but I've never been there. I had some friends that used to visit from Sweden. They were incredible fun.
In the late 1970s many of my friends were running mousetraps on panheads. I had a 1973 FL Police Special with a jockey top hand shift and a friction plate foot clutch. I could never get the hand shift linkage adjusted right so I was always grinding years. I put a ratchet top on it but kept the foot clutch, shifting with a lever under my butt.
very good tutorial on the mousetrap!For some reason, many people pitched them and put on Barnett Mouse Trap Eliminator kits because they never could get the booster adjusted properly ( scooped up a lot of boosters, really cheap back then). It's bit of a process, but well worth it, to me, and as you just showed, it's not THAT big of a process (you just did it in under 13 minutes, and that was with explanations), if you take your time, and do it in the proper order (that is the key). Mousetrap and Panhead external oil filter have always been an absolute must have on ALL my builds back in the day. Not only are they practical and functional, but they look neat as hell. Nice Job Mike!
Thank you...another excellent video. I must of read my Panhead manual a hundred times and it still made no sense. I'm gonna head out to the shop right now to adjust my Mouse trap. Cheers!
Just to let you know....the clutch now works like a champ! It's wonderful not breaking into a sweat at stop lights anymore. Again, thanks for the tutorial.
I'm really glad. The more you do clutches, the better you'll get. I try to help, but there's no substitute for experience. And now, you have experience. Way cool.
I understand. But, set properly, the mousetrap is such an easy pull, and locks up so easily. I've actually gone back into people's bikes and reinstalled mousetraps and made them real happy.
I finally got around to adjusting mine. first time ever doing so and what an experience! It took me most of the day and several tries but I finally got it. The thing that kept messing me up is I couldn't get it done right at 4 1/4 . Right now it's at 3 and three quarters. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but everything seems to be working good. I'll test ride it tomorrow and see
That measurement is a recommendation by Harley's service manual. After enough years, we have different clutches, maybe a clutch arm that's been modified a little, a lot of variables. That measurement is for a nice "mechanical advantage." It gives nice leverage. These adjustments are not written in stone. Have a good ride.
Now you have me thinking. Quit it. Maybe your throwout bearing rod is not going in far enough. Maybe your problem is in the kicker cover. If it works well now, who cares? But if you need more travel from that arm, one can get quite creative.
Great video to set up a mouse trap and I love mine you have a wonderful way of explaining what you have to do. Keep it up and thanks again for your service to all of us that love our motors
Well Mike: I have Learnt alot today, never sean a 'Mouse-Trap' like that before. Usless for catching Mice, but really great for those long days in the sadel. I think I would need to right all this down before trying to do the job. Its a lovelly Bike though. Old school with all the mod cons for todays riding! Thank you.
Thank You. You know, it's all written in the service manual. I still do it with the book open. They installed them on big twins from 52-67. People took them off because they couldn't understand how to adjust them. Very sad. But fun today.
Thank's Mike for your great work , very informative . You have helped me keep my old bike running as it should. You are better than a manual. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you. Wonderful compliments. But, don't discount the service manual. It was put together by professionals. If you look at your manual long enough, you will start thinking like it and you'll love it. I traveled several states on a new Shovelhead many years ago. Didn't quite understand that "modern" bike. I had my service manual with me the whole time in my saddlebag. It was priceless to me.
Wow. Thanks so much for this video. I never realized that it should be very light to move the clutch lever like that. With one finger. I need to use four fingers to actuate. Back to it I guess.
thanks Mike, been fighting my mousetrap for the best part of an hour. Made the mistake of starting 1/2 way through, will apply your clear instructions (and calm manner). cheers
I was going to reply about adjusting the clutch booster from another video of yours and decided just to search it out and you have it and it's funny when I had my clutch booster on my 62 Panhead a lot of bikers were telling me to take it off I said hell no man, by the way as you can see my name is also Michael and in the 80s I was a motorcycle mechanic my boss worked on Rice burners and then when he got married into the his wife father owned Brooklyn and Hempstead Harley-Davidson then we started working on Harleys, it was great back then we used to work until like 2 in the morning and not even realize it.
Great video! Thanks so much for the information, Mike. I am putting a mousetrap back on the '67 chopper I am currently building. It's always had a direct cable until now.
I know I have already left a comment on this video, but at some point in time if possible could you show an up close video of the bar and riser set up on the Knuckle? Thank you Mike, your channel is fantastic 👏 👍
It is just standard old Flanders stuff. The handlebars are Flanders Drag Bars (still available through several suppliers). The risers are no longer produced by Flanders, but V-Twin (Ted Cycle) out of New York is reproducing them.
I think you are a very good teacher and I would love to see a video on the old cast iron oil pumps I have a 55 panhead and I have burnished the oil pump and I still have a oil leak and I’m sure you could show me what I am missing. I thank you for sharing your information and your knuckle head is very nice to I love the old bikes and the cast iron pump is a very good part and I would never want anything else on my Panhead and I run the mousetrap and you explain it so well Best Regards Robert S Raper
We have to do them as they come up. But, my Panhead still has her original pump. Haven't had it apart in several years. But, she currently needs a trans seal. We'll be getting to that pretty soon. Thanks. We'll get to everything sooner or later. We just don't take stuff apart until it needs it.
I would not want you to take a oil pump that has no problem. Just hoping I’m sure that you can show me the thing I’m not getting. But i may grind the seat with tooth paste and try to burnish it again. You never are to old to learn something that i don’t know. And you have a great way of explaining things so that they are easy to understand.
Thank you. I assume you're speaking of the ball and seat that keep the oil in the tank, instead of the crankcase. I've seen it done so many ways. I remember a piece of welding rod with a brand new ball welded to it and very fine valve lapping compound. If you try that one, thorough cleaning before reassembly. In my shop, years ago (everything Evo back to Knuckle), I'd get calls every spring from people whose bikes had "wet-sumped" all over their garage floor. I'd explain it, then tell them to put a pan under their bike if it was gonna sit for long periods of time. They all do it, it's just a matter of how much, and how often. Sometimes, just a new ball and spring does wonders.
Fascinating stuff. How long was this on bikes before a design change eliminated the need for one of these, and was it an option or standard equipment? I really love this bike, and should I ever have a vintage "chopper" I'd want my first one to be very much like this one. It really is a luscious little gem.
The clutch booster assembly was introduced with the first Big Twin footshift in 1952. It was used through 1967. It was probably dropped to simplify the system. However, they're really nice when adjusted properly.
Great explanation for a stock bike but let's not forget the dreaded "A" word (aftermarket) ! There is probably 10 different lengths of clutch release levers & control rods, not to mention 2 different rod end holes and where the trap is clamped to the frame. I wish I could have watched this back when I was pulling the ends off cables & threads off the control rods 😞 Thanks Mike
Thank You. Remember, "aftermarket stuff" is way better than nothing to work with. The two different holes are for two different applications. They are bikes with tin primaries, and the bikes with aluminum primaries and electric starters. I tried to simplify the mousetrap a little. They sure are nice when properly adjusted and maintained.
Thanks Mike! This was perfect as I rehabilitate a 1966 FL. I found a hole at the front end of the clutch lever rod end. It looks like it _should_ have a zerk, but I'm given to understand that the factory intended us to pump a little oil in there now and again. Does this sound right? I'd rather have a zerk, but there's not really enough depth to thread one in.
You are correct. It s an oil hole. I have a tendency to pull it off and grease it with some good bearing grease. It's just routine stuff when I'm playing with it.
We already did the shovelhead primary, no mousetrap, not necessary with the clutch we're using. We continue to do things as they come up. Hope you find this stuff useful to you.
Nothing. It should be adjusted to put the arm in the right position, then locked down. Always leave a little play in the arm to keep from wearing out the throwout bearing prematurely. Then adjust the mousetrap in the proper sequence.
I am ALWAYS impressed by your knowledge, but more so by your ability to impart that knowledge. Man, You should put out a video series on DVD! "Pacific Mike's Secrets of the OG Harley's"... Let me know so I can be the first one to get a copy! (Or the set!) Thank you again for making me smarter than I was 12 1/2 MInutes ago.
Mike, putting mousetrap on my pan and can't find a stainless braided cable to work with 7/8" dia. drag bars. stock length is of course too long for my liking. where did you get your cable? same issue for springer brake cable. I measured the outer jacket at 23" for the clutch cable and 39" for the brake cable. any help appreciated. BTW really liked the LC Panhead series videos. Also do you have a video on rebuilding star hub to original specs? Doug
Mike I hope that in the near future you will add a way to support your wonderful work and it’s a great service you so kindly give. I would love to help you with some money and I’m sure that you would be surprised pleasantly. I had a good friend Gary Woodford. And he had the same easy way about him he passed away on my birthday 9-27-05 and I have a 05 police bike and I call it woddy. But I degress you a great teacher. And Gary helped me out a lot. Best Regards Robert S Raper
Thank You, Steve. It took me a bit of time to answer your letter. The name "Gary Woodford," struck a note. I honestly don't remember meeting him, but, I feel very complimented just the same. Quite a few years back, I met Randy Simpson at the V-Twin Expo in Cincinatti. We had quite a conversation. Having been in the bike business a long time, we had been doing business and it was great to meet him in person. All the TV stuff was in full bloom at that point. But, it was a great conversation. Randy was sitting on a bike, posing for pictures. He was getting a real kick out of the whole thing. The coolest thing was this little boy who wanted his picture taken with the famous biker. Randy treated that child like only a real good guy knows how to do. It was great. And, that's what happens when you jog My memory. I'm truly sorry you've lost Gary. Before my best friend passed in 03, we made each other a promise that we'd eventually open another shop together.
I introduced Gary to Randy who was a childhood friend Gary was afraid of Randy. He was always loud I didn’t pay much attention to that. I helped him start in his mother’s basement. I told Randy that the old guys called the motorcycles. Milwaukee Iron and a state trooper is the owner of Milwaukee iron 2 It’s in Mertill Beach South Carolina. He handled Randy when he was doing some coportaing with the police. He comes from Lynchburg Virginia where he was known as Honest Floyd at least he was by the people who knew him. I would restore the old motors. And Gary would be thinking of something that was a pleasure to watch. I thank you for sharing and being so kind. Best Regards Robert S Raper
Mike, great video and thank you. A question. On the mousetrap bell crank where the rod to the clutch arm attaches, it looks like an extra hole has been drilled to locate the rod a little higher. Why was this done? To clear the big spring end? Or is there some mechanical advantage gained by doing this?
Hi Mike, Again , thank you for what you do! I'm a true fan. I'm going from a cable system to a mousetrap. I have nothing for the mousetrap yet. Watching your video it looks like I'll need a longer clutch arm. Mine only comes out about half way out under my oil tank. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 1952 FL. I'm going from a swing arm frame to the new(to me) 52 ridged frame I have it in now so some things work and some not so much. Also wondering if my old oil tank bottom mounting plate will be the same or not. I have the new ridged frame oil tank.
You could find all the hardware pieces you need (clutch arm, rod, cable, oil tank mounting brackets) in a V-Twin catalog, complete with all of the diagrams that will answer all of those questions. Most aftermarket shops are dealers for them. That's V-Twin or Tedd Cycle. They go by both names.
Mike, another great video! So glad I found your channel. I have a question concerning the placement of the mousetrap on the frame. Is there a recommended measurement of where it’s mounted on the frame? Mine is off the bike and my restoration is taking way longer than expected and I failed to take notes on this when I removed it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I've never found that measurement, if there is one. Personally, I like to see the rod parallel with the ground. But then, if the bikes not exactly level (usually not), I think it's a good question I can't answer.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike. I suppose the clutch rod being parallel is a good start and as long as nothing interferes or binds it should work as intended. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything crucial. Thanks for the info and your expertise.
Mike, what would make the perfect Harley? Most comfortable, Most Reliable, Best year all in one bike.. what would that bike be? What model? What year? What size motor? Basically the perfect build in your opinion if price and availability of parts was no issue? Could this perfect build be capable of 200,000 miles if ( meticulously, obsessively maintained ) with no major repairs? Cylinder honing, Trans rebuild etc?
This is old machinery. It's really about "smiles per mile." A Shovelhead runs like a Shovelhead. A Knucklehead runs like a Knucklehead. They're all different. My Panhead is a sweet natured old "do anything" bike that's loads of fun to ride. My Knucklehead is a period chopper, not for the faint hearted, certainly an "E Ticket" ride. They're all different. Best? Best at what, on what day, for what occasion?
Man I adjusted and adjusted. Hated it. Would get hung in the engaged position. Finally saw it was so slightly dragging the clutch arm across the top of the tab that the outer primary bolts to the inner primary cover.
Hi Pacific Mike, I just started watching your videos. You a great teacher and great mechanic. I have a question for you. How much of your mechanical ability is natural, and how much is just accumulated from hands on practice over the years? Did you have trouble learning at first or was it fairly easy to you?
Thank You. I grew up in a gas station. My dad was a wrench. He was very hard on me, but, taught me as best he could. He had a massive temper and very little patience. But he was a very good guy. I decided early on, I really loved and respected his values and morals. But, I didn't want his less desireable traits. I passed him wrenches as a little kid. By the time I was 14 or 15, he was passing me wrenches. I went on to learn more from some very great older guys. It just goes on forever.
I just went out and measured it. I wasn't about to remove it. It measured (estimating how far it threaded in) 21 3/4". This stuff is a little tough to remember. You're dealing with aftermarket stuff. There are different lengths for different models. In my shop, I always had several around to choose from. Now, we need to figure it out. With a foot clutch, there appear to be two different lengths, 36-64 (for bikes with tin primaries), and 65-84 (for bikes with cast aluminum primaries). Then we have bikes that came with mousetraps. That created two lengths, 52-67 and 65-67. My Knuckle certainly didn't come with a mousetrap, so it has whatever would work. I suggest Tedd Cycle in New York. They list it all in their catalog.
Just discovered your videos Mike. They are great. I just picked up a 1950 pan and was wondering if there was any way I could get in contact with you and pick your brain for some knowledge. Keep up the good work!
I am retired and kinda private, except when I go out to play. I'll be glad to try and help you through the comment section. And, I try to make the Long Beach CA motorcycle swap meet. It's on every month.
@@pacificmike9501 I live in So cal as well, I'll try and make it to the swap meet one of these days. The videos have been incredibly helpful, thank you to you and your crew for what you guys do!
Damn Super good informative walk thru technique!!!!! I remember growing up My Dad had a 48 pan and some of his buddies ran little knuckel heads quite a few had pans another had the big flathead some wifes had 45s My Dad started the chopper craze in ohio and built a bunch in our little barn in the winter some in our kitchen.. Mom bitched a lot when he had gear boxes and crankcases old linkerts and su carbs on the table HHHAHAA I still remember the hasstle they had with the clutch on a few of the old hogs Where were You Mike 45 years ago? OOPS now Im dating myself Soon to be 56 .... How old are You may I ask? Again another great video. please keep the wrenches turning and the bikes running!!! bob
Hi Mike, I can't tell you how much help your videos have been to me. I am working on my 1961 FL, which I do have a manual for, it has a BDL belt drive but other than that it's pretty much stock. I have followed your adjustment video pretty darn closely but I am running into a problem. It doesn't want to go into first gear and even if I try and put it into second it grids very badly. I took it apart for a clean up and adjustment. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks Again, Stan
All I can do is an educated guess. If the clutch is not adjusted properly, the mousetrap could be perfect yet not act right. Start at the beginning. Is the throwout bearing and rod working well? Inspect them to be sure. Then go through the clutch plates and springs. Don't forget to make sure nothing is hanging up in the cutch basket or on the hub. Make sure the plates are spreading evenly. With the motor off, you should be able to disengage the clutch and turn it by hand.
Thank you for this video! Very helpful on understanding the mousetrap. One question Mike: Is there different springs for the mousetrap for different years HD? I have a mousetrap that was operating a 1949 Panhead motor when I Moved it to my 1964 Panhead the spring seems too strong for the clutch. Thanks again!
Not to my knowledge. Is everything lubed well? I mean, the ends of rods, the bearing in the mousetrap? Do you have all of the angles right? Is the clutch itself clean and operating properly? I don't mean to be too repetitious, but, "If you don't like the way it works, start over again at the very beginning, beginning with the clutch itself." And make sure that throwout bearing is functioning well.
I'm going to have to watch this wile I do the installation. Assuming I get the thing installed I bought it 12 years ago and made curved shims so I could clear the front head. But I have other things that are more important that she needs first.
When you see and listen to Mike he always is truthfully honest. Wonderful teacher.
Thank you.
I"m nominating you for Teacher of the Year award. You just have that ( I'm at a lost for words ) knack for explaining precisely how something works and to repair it. Awesome video !!
What a nice compliment! Thank you. That's the goal! Really glad you"re enjoying it.
This is best, well-organized, and understandable presentation of mousetrap adjustment I've ever seen on line. You remind me so much of my Harley mentor who taught me this procedure 50 years ago. You are a fantastic teacher--keep up the great work!
Thank you. I'm now blushing.
Nice work Mike, I'm not used to learning without yelling and screaming and wrenches flying at my head. your method worked like a charm
Cool! That's what we hope for.
Yeah that seems about right with me as well. Mike is a very patient respectable man, to bad he in California and I'm in Minnesota, lol,🤣
Hey Mike I just wanted to thank you for your knowledge and expertise. My 66 shovelhead has always had a stiff hard clutch, had several shops try to adjust it and they all said it's just the way it is. This adjustment has made it so much easier to ride the bike wich allows me more ride time. You are definitely my go to guy for any issues, ride safe brother!!
Thank you. The more you do it, the better you'll get at it. The function becomes clearer in your mind. This is old technology, which means everything is adjustable and rebuildable.
Mike, I have a 66 shovel too, but the clutch rod is not a straight shot to the clutch arm, my starter soilnoid is preventing a straight rod going through... Hope this makes sense.
Mike I adjusted the mousetrap on my 62 pan today with the help of your video. I want to thank you for sharing your experience with classic bikes
With respect J. Gordon
Glad it helped.
Mike is the best! Several years ago I struggled for hours trying to adjust the mousetrap on my panhead, finally got it but was a fight. Used Mike's instructions to set up my mousetrap on my new 66 shovel, it took as long as the video took, 12 minutes! Step by step process made it idiot proof! Thanks my west coast friend!
Thank You. That actually makes me feel good.
Through a friend I acquired a boxed 1956 Harley Big Twin that had been in storage for about 25 years, and only having had a chopped Sportster, I didn't even know where to start. Mike's tutorials have been a lifesaver, saving me many hours of trial and error. Thanks, and
much appreciated!
Thank You.
I cringe when I have to make this adjustment, only because my '67 has no derby cover. Your step by step certainly simplifies understanding what to do, kudos on that!
Thank You. That is the hope.
Man you bring back memories of Mile 58 Panhead I just love watching and listening to you work on your old bikes I got a 95 Heritage Classic nowadays but I sure miss my Panhead like to hang with you someday that would be cool
Yes, we are in it for a good time.
Thank you so much for this video! I’m working on my late father’s ‘61 FLH, which was his primary bike for almost 45 years. After installing a new clutch, replacement hand lever and cable, you have no idea how elated I was to see those clutch springs compress and plates move when the mousetrap was properly adjusted!
Glad it was helpful!
I recently picked up a 57Pan/Shovel with a "Mouse Trap" this is great 👍 Thank you for the lesson and the reasoning for its inventiveness.
DJ.
Glad it was helpful!
Have been trying for years to get my revtec five speed to work with my mouse trap.This video put me on the right track, now it works like it was meant to work on my older four speed. Mucho thanks.
Glad it helped
very nice video,,,,,,,,,it sure brought back a lot of memories............my 58 panhead had a mousetrap and you're right ,,,,,,,,,,,,when it's adjusted RIGHT, THAT'S ONE SLICK ITEM THAT HARLEY CAME UP WITH,,,,,,,,,,BTW,,,,,,,,,,,,,you have a nice relaxing calming attitude in your videos,,,,,,,,,,,good job....................
Thank you.
Thank you Pacific Mike. Best class on mousetrap adjustment! Thanks for passing on your knowledge.
Thank you. I'm glad you found it helpful.
I bought a `67 FLH in `73 while stationed in Honolulu. It was the last year for the mouse trap. Great system. I broke a clutch cable while out of town and it was a no brainer to operate the clutch using my hand on the mouse trap. Always adjusted it per the manual.
Good stuff.
The memories (good and bad) come flooding back when I was a kid learning to ride and work on bikes starting out on dad's old Knuckle. Thanks for taking me down memory lane and for passing on knowledge to the ones who were not as fortunate as some of us to grow up around the older bikes. Well done Mike.
Thank You.
I feel like I am in a harley davidson course with a very wonderful teacher every time I watch one of your videos. You my friend are awesome.
Wow, thanks!
I watched this video multiple times while setting up an old mousetrap... the part where you say to lube everything finally echoed. The cable too! My crusty old cable was ruining the day. Thank you for your content
Glad it helped.
In 1972 I had a 1955 panhead, I set up the mousetrap without all these instructions, seems like alot of stuff for the mechanically inept. Seeking advice on torking the head bolts I called an old Harley mechanic I knew. He laughed and told me "tighten down the head bolts till the heads snap off and back off a quarter turn. This is how we worked on those Harleys back then. We knew our motors.
After many years, I've tried to improve. My bikes run better than they used to. I've tried to learn and share what I've learned. In '69, I built a 58 Sportster for myself from a $200.00 basket case. I've improved from there. I hope to get better from here.
Excellent clutch adjustment demonstration. I'm going to replace the mouse trap eliminator on my 66 FLH that I put on 50 years ago because I just couldn't get it right from the harley's instructions. Never to old to learn.
Thank you. Now, if I can just keep this computer working, I can answer your email. Maybe I'm not too old to learn.
Very good demonstration of how to do this adjustment correctly from start to finish!!
Thank You. Glad you liked it.
You explain this so much better than the HD manual.
Thank you. But, I'm basically saying the same thing.
Thank you. But, I'm basically saying the same thing.
I will probably never get a chance to work on bikes from this era.. however it is a pleasure learning from your channel!! I really do enjoy working on the bikes in my family and helping friends.. I truly hope you keep these coming and maybe at some point get to newer style motors and bikes
Well, I've done a lot on the channel. Check out our channel homepage. We've built Shovelhead and Evolution motors. I just prefer old stuff. But they're all there, about 115 videos.
Mike, I just bought my friend's '51 Panhead with Shovelhead top end, and unadulterated frame (complete with sidecar and tool kit mounts, etc.). Your videos--like this one--have been invaluable in familiarizing me with my new bike. Thank you!
Thank You. Glad you're enjoying it.
Excellent demo and video! Always enjoyed helping friends back in the 60s and 70s adjust their mousetrap. They couldn't believe how easy mine was on my 67. Just like you said, start from the beginning. As a matter of fact I just went over mine yesterday on that same 67 FLH that I bought and have ridden since 1968 when I bought it 1 1/2 yrs old while still in high school. Great training videos,keep them coming. Happy New Year. By the way, that dresser cost me my life savings at that time $1250. Lol.
Wow! That's a great story. Actually a love story, that lasts a lifetime.
Takes me back to days when I first started to ride. You are right many people don't know about a mousetrap, or suicide shift.
It's a "Suicide Clutch," not "Suicide Shift."
awesome! I watched this, then went straight to my 62 and watched again and adjusted as per video. works perfectly! thanks dude
Thank you. That's the purpose. It's a great little mechanism.
Keep the videos coming sir you are a great hands on instructor/teacher. Thank you.
Thanks, will do!
It’s my goal to watch every single one of your videos very informative and I’m learning a lot about the old Harley Davison‘s I currently opened a shop with my brother near Chicago this year and you’ve help me with the shovel head we are working on! Thanks again for the videos I look forward to watching them
That's great. The big deal is to identify what you have. Years and models have their differences. I need to know when asked for information. "It's a Shovelhead" ain't gonna do it.
Man you are the greatest. You have a way of teaching so it's easy to understand and do. Your videos are the greatest. Plus you work on a bunch of PANHEADS
Thank You.
That was awesome, you have to love a mechanism like that, getting the balance point just right makes it perfect
Thank You. Obviously, I feel the same way about it.
WoW ! Love this contraption. The way you explained its adjustment is thoroughly thought through and so easy to understand. Thank you 👍
You're very welcome!
You are very good at explaining adjustments and are easy to listen to.thank you
Thank You. That is the goal.
@@pacificmike9501 you are the best ive heard. Ive been riding scooters since 1972. A and you know what your talking about
Thank You.
It was almost impossible for me to pull the clutch on my old 56 and I thought that was the way it was all these years and when I was younger I could handle it. After running through this adjustment it works much better and I can actually pull it with ease. Its still a bit stiff but I think I have the clutch basket springs on the tight side. Plenty of meat on the plates and I cleaned sanded and reinstalled like in another of your vids. I have had this old bike sitting in the corner of the garage and thought it was time to fire it up again. I wont know if the clutch can be backed off or not until another week or 2 waiting on a few parts. Last time I fired it up about 6 years ago it was spewing oil out of somewhere and I just put it back in the corner and bought a KTM690. Sold the Duke about 4 years ago and now its back to the Panhead. Watching your videos has helped me out in a big way. Thank you Pacific Mike.
That's great to hear. Thank You.
Hey, Mike. Still binge watching your channel. When I saw your video about the tank shifters, foot clutch and "it's a suicide clutch, not a suicide shift", I wondered if you would have a video about adjusting a moustrap clutch booster. Sure enough here it is. Well explained and done. This, like many things on older Harleys is a lost art.
I'll have to look, to see if you have a video on how to set up a star hub on an older Harley. Another lost art. My 1960 Duo-Glide FLH was a badly neglected bike that sat in a puddle of water up over the axles for several years before I rescued it. What a labor of love that was. You can imagine, water got to the tires, rims, hubs, swing arm bearings, into the engine and transmission. I had to take that bike apart to the last nut and bolt. I did it over the winter '77 in New York. Scrounging parts from all over the place.
Serviceable hubs were found in one of the smaller local HD shops. And most of the needed parts, like bearings and gaskets were still sitting in the inventory of the famous but now closed "Reggie Pink" dealership in Westchester County, NY. They had an amazing amount of NOS parts in their shop. Reggie was an old time flat track racer and I was surprised to find he still had stock to put together a KR flat track race bike I picked up in crates while I was stationed at Fort Rucker, Alabama.
Anyway, maybe sometime you can show how to set up the roller bearings and side to side shimming of these hubs. Maybe explain how they use the same bearings that are used on the big end of the forked engine connecting rods. The longer bearings on the drive or brake side, shorter on the other. And they can be oversized to make a nice fit. It is an archaic system compared to the new hubs with tapered rollers, but very satisfying to do properly.
I'm digging your channel the more I watch it, thanks to you and your two cameramen.
John....
Thank You.
This is a much better explanation than the Service Manual. Mine actually works properly now. Thank you Squire.
Thank you.
Very instructional! I am rebuilding my 1964 panhead. It looks like your bell crank assembly is 65 to 67. The end of your clutch rod is on the left hand side. Mine mounts on the other side. A discovery I made, the clutch booster bracket has to be oriented correctly so the clutch lever rod does not interfere or hit against the end of the shifter. Hopefully this makes sense? Great video for a tricky operation.
You got it. Just pay attention and it will tell you what it needs.
Your videos are some of the best out there. I've been wrenching my whole life but mainly shovels, evos and Ironheads. I now have 2 pans and about to start on a WLC. Your videos have been life savers. Can only get so much from a manual
I use both too. I take advice and I consult the manual. Thank you for the compliment. Glad to be of service.
Thank you Mike and Mike . Just put mousetrap and foot shift setup on my old knucklehead. This video really helped.
Cool. Glad it helped.
Appropriately named !
Thanks Mike for an easily understandable great video. I have the shop manuals for my references but I guess its my ADHD that makes it a little harder to understand. Seeing you work is by far the easiest way for me to learn. I just discovered your videos a couple weeks ago and you have ignited a fire under me to get back to work on my 51 El. With your videos, I see myself going further into it feeling more confident than ever before. Keep up the great work and I love your motorcycles as well.
Thank You. I wish you success with it.
Hi Mike, been watching all the video's I can with regards to Panheads never too old to learn I especially like this one on the Clutch Booster or Mousetrap. Now its off to the shed and hope I don't catch my fingers. Appreciate all your visual help and the easy way in which you explain each maintenance task. Rgds from West Australia. Johnno
Great to hear! Thank You.
Great info! Mine adjusted right up when I did it like you instructed... many thanks!
I'm glad! That's the purpose of the videos. Glad we could help.
Mike you rock!!! followed your instructions and finally overcome the difficulties with the mousetrap. Thank you very much!!
I'm glad it worked for you. I think they're a great contraption. Happy Holidays.
Awesome! Thanks. I was under the impression that mousetraps were supposed to hold the clutch without a hand on the lever. Then tap it again to release. This makes more sense.
Cool. They really do take very little effort to operate, when adjusted properly.
@@pacificmike9501 appreciate your knowledge. Just picked up a Pan a couple days ago!
Congratulations!
You're a wonderful teacher, Mike! Cheers from Vietnam 🇻🇳
Wow, thank you!
@@pacificmike9501 actually i'm not owning a Harley yet, but i ride classic motorcycles a lot since a teenager and luckily I found me a great mechanic who fix up my bikes and also taught me to fix my bike at home exactly like the way you do, so gentle and carefully. Btw I'm riding a 2002 Yamaha SR400, it is a really good bike to me hehe
Good stuff Mike, nice to see sum videos on the Old Iron, ran across ur videos today & very much enjoyed them
Cool. Thank you.
Great video, thanks. I took the mousetrap off my '66 and now have it on my' 72. Also nice to have if the cable breaks, you still have the mousetrap. They really thought things out back then.
Yes they did. They really produced some detailed stuff.
Thanks brother for the great video . My good partner was the king of mouse traps but he’s gone now with all the knowledge. With your helping some patience I was able to adjust my mouse trap after studying your video many times over and it’s working great ! Thanks again be safe !
Glad to help. Sorry for your loss.
I wish I would have seen this about 40 plus years ago, that said very nicely done
Thank You.
Thanks Mike, you're an excellent teacher. I wrote down what you said and now have a clearer procedure that I'm looking forward to trying on Rosie my Panhead (...she likes the attention). Also bought a 3/8" flex head ratchet from watching you work on another video.
Cool. Think about it, when you're not there, and the bikes are alone, what do you think they talk about?
You do a great job Mike and I appreciate that...your very precise with your instructions...There aren't a lot of guys out there who want to take the time to make a video..Keep making them..Jim in Scottsdale, AZ.
I appreciate that!
Mike, I enjoyed your adjustment video. I am only one of a few in North Alabama that can adjust the mousetrap clutch. You did it identical to how I do it, and basically the panhead manual. One thing you didn't mention was why they called it a mousetrap. When you have your hand in there, it will slam shut on your hand, and that hurts! Great video!
Thanks 👍
Thank you for your time. Your video really do help out. I'm restoring a 66 FLH.
Thank You. Glad to hear it. That's a pretty special bike. Enjoy it.
I'm loving these videos! Thank you so much for all the in depth details and how to do, I myself don't own a bike yet, although been tempting to own one for many years, still I haven't got a license for one and have no knowledge about motors or such, always wished I knew someone that had knowledge about bikes and repairs, but perhaps could learn a bit here and there after watching youe videos. :) Greetings from Sweden.
Greetings! And, Thank You. There seems to be a lot of bike building in Sweden, but I've never been there. I had some friends that used to visit from Sweden. They were incredible fun.
In the late 1970s many of my friends were running mousetraps on panheads. I had a 1973 FL Police Special with a jockey top hand shift and a friction plate foot clutch. I could never get the hand shift linkage adjusted right so I was always grinding years. I put a ratchet top on it but kept the foot clutch, shifting with a lever under my butt.
Sounds familiar. That was a cool thing to do. Kinda still is.
very good tutorial on the mousetrap!For some reason, many people pitched them and put on Barnett Mouse Trap Eliminator kits because they never could get the booster adjusted properly ( scooped up a lot of boosters, really cheap back then). It's bit of a process, but well worth it, to me, and as you just showed, it's not THAT big of a process (you just did it in under 13 minutes, and that was with explanations), if you take your time, and do it in the proper order (that is the key). Mousetrap and Panhead external oil filter have always been an absolute must have on ALL my builds back in the day. Not only are they practical and functional, but they look neat as hell. Nice Job Mike!
Thank You.
Hi there Pacific Mike, that Mouse trap,looks quite an invention by Harley,,thanks again friend for your fine work😊😊😊
Thank You.
I’m not big on the colour yellow but that bike in that shade of yellow is beautiful. Thanks for all the videos I’ve learned alot
Glad you like them!
Thank you...another excellent video. I must of read my Panhead manual a hundred times and it still made no sense. I'm gonna head out to the shop right now to adjust my Mouse trap. Cheers!
Good luck! If you like it, cool. If not, start at the beginning, and do it again.
Just to let you know....the clutch now works like a champ! It's wonderful not breaking into a sweat at stop lights anymore. Again, thanks for the tutorial.
I'm really glad. The more you do clutches, the better you'll get. I try to help, but there's no substitute for experience. And now, you have experience. Way cool.
I owe you a beer Mike! My 56 FLH mousetrap is working so much better now!
Cool!
thanks mike, always a mistery to me about adjustment on my 53, so i went to a clutch elemenator, which works great
I understand. But, set properly, the mousetrap is such an easy pull, and locks up so easily. I've actually gone back into people's bikes and reinstalled mousetraps and made them real happy.
Love the videos Mike, very relaxing and I always learn something, have a blessed week my friend.
Thanks, you too!
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos and pass on a wealth of experience!
Thank you. Glad you enjoy it.
I finally got around to adjusting mine. first time ever doing so and what an experience! It took me most of the day and several tries but I finally got it. The thing that kept messing me up is I couldn't get it done right at 4 1/4 . Right now it's at 3 and three quarters. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but everything seems to be working good. I'll test ride it tomorrow and see
That measurement is a recommendation by Harley's service manual. After enough years, we have different clutches, maybe a clutch arm that's been modified a little, a lot of variables. That measurement is for a nice "mechanical advantage." It gives nice leverage. These adjustments are not written in stone. Have a good ride.
Now you have me thinking. Quit it. Maybe your throwout bearing rod is not going in far enough. Maybe your problem is in the kicker cover. If it works well now, who cares? But if you need more travel from that arm, one can get quite creative.
Great video to set up a mouse trap and I love mine you have a wonderful way of explaining what you have to do. Keep it up and thanks again for your service to all of us that love our motors
Fantastic coverage on the " mouse trap assembly !! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
You bet. I hope it was helpful.
Well Mike: I have Learnt alot today, never sean a 'Mouse-Trap' like that before. Usless for catching Mice, but really great for those long days in the sadel.
I think I would need to right all this down before trying to do the job. Its a lovelly Bike though. Old school with all the mod cons for todays riding!
Thank you.
Thank You. You know, it's all written in the service manual. I still do it with the book open. They installed them on big twins from 52-67. People took them off because they couldn't understand how to adjust them. Very sad. But fun today.
Thank's Mike for your great work , very informative . You have helped me keep my old bike running as it should. You are better than a manual. Keep the videos coming.
Thank you. Wonderful compliments. But, don't discount the service manual. It was put together by professionals. If you look at your manual long enough, you will start thinking like it and you'll love it. I traveled several states on a new Shovelhead many years ago. Didn't quite understand that "modern" bike. I had my service manual with me the whole time in my saddlebag. It was priceless to me.
Wow. Thanks so much for this video. I never realized that it should be very light to move the clutch lever like that. With one finger. I need to use four fingers to actuate. Back to it I guess.
Yea, lube it every place metal moves against metal, and start at the beginning. Do it "til you like it. Thank you.
thanks Mike, been fighting my mousetrap for the best part of an hour. Made the mistake of starting 1/2 way through, will apply your clear instructions (and calm manner). cheers
I have faith in you. You'll get it.
I was going to reply about adjusting the clutch booster from another video of yours and decided just to search it out and you have it and it's funny when I had my clutch booster on my 62 Panhead a lot of bikers were telling me to take it off I said hell no man, by the way as you can see my name is also Michael and in the 80s I was a motorcycle mechanic my boss worked on Rice burners and then when he got married into the his wife father owned Brooklyn and Hempstead Harley-Davidson then we started working on Harleys, it was great back then we used to work until like 2 in the morning and not even realize it.
Rather infectious disease, isn't it? My "x-wife" used to say "all Mikes are born with horns and tails."
Good video! My old '47 Knucklehead had this system! 👍
Works good, huh.
Great video! Thanks so much for the information, Mike. I am putting a mousetrap back on the '67 chopper I am currently building. It's always had a direct cable until now.
Cool. Once you get it dialed in, you'll love it.
Whoever invented that mousetrap should have had his name stamped into every one. Pure genius.
I think they're great too. Easy Pull.
I love your vids mike, the best out there yet, just keep em coming and we will keep on watching, thanks mike😁
Thank You.
I know I have already left a comment on this video, but at some point in time if possible could you show an up close video of the bar and riser set up on the Knuckle? Thank you Mike, your channel is fantastic 👏 👍
It is just standard old Flanders stuff. The handlebars are Flanders Drag Bars (still available through several suppliers).
The risers are no longer produced by Flanders, but V-Twin (Ted Cycle) out of New York is reproducing them.
@@pacificmike9501 Appreciate the information. Thank you.
Thank You
I think you are a very good teacher and I would love to see a video on the old cast iron oil pumps I have a 55 panhead and I have burnished the oil pump and I still have a oil leak and I’m sure you could show me what I am missing. I thank you for sharing your information and your knuckle head is very nice to I love the old bikes and the cast iron pump is a very good part and I would never want anything else on my Panhead and I run the mousetrap and you explain it so well Best Regards Robert S Raper
We have to do them as they come up. But, my Panhead still has her original pump. Haven't had it apart in several years. But, she currently needs a trans seal. We'll be getting to that pretty soon. Thanks. We'll get to everything sooner or later. We just don't take stuff apart until it needs it.
I would not want you to take a oil pump that has no problem. Just hoping I’m sure that you can show me the thing I’m not getting. But i may grind the seat with tooth paste and try to burnish it again. You never are to old to learn something that i don’t know. And you have a great way of explaining things so that they are easy to understand.
Thank you. I assume you're speaking of the ball and seat that keep the oil in the tank, instead of the crankcase. I've seen it done so many ways. I remember a piece of welding rod with a brand new ball welded to it and very fine valve lapping compound. If you try that one, thorough cleaning before reassembly. In my shop, years ago (everything Evo back to Knuckle), I'd get calls every spring from people whose bikes had "wet-sumped" all over their garage floor. I'd explain it, then tell them to put a pan under their bike if it was gonna sit for long periods of time. They all do it, it's just a matter of how much, and how often. Sometimes, just a new ball and spring does wonders.
Fascinating stuff. How long was this on bikes before a design change eliminated the need for one of these, and was it an option or standard equipment? I really love this bike, and should I ever have a vintage "chopper" I'd want my first one to be very much like this one. It really is a luscious little gem.
The clutch booster assembly was introduced with the first Big Twin footshift in 1952. It was used through 1967. It was probably dropped to simplify the system. However, they're really nice when adjusted properly.
Great explanation for a stock bike but let's not forget the dreaded "A" word (aftermarket) ! There is probably 10 different lengths of clutch release levers & control rods, not to mention 2 different rod end holes and where the trap is clamped to the frame. I wish I could have watched this back when I was pulling the ends off cables & threads off the control rods 😞 Thanks Mike
Thank You. Remember, "aftermarket stuff" is way better than nothing to work with. The two different holes are for two different applications. They are bikes with tin primaries, and the bikes with aluminum primaries and electric starters. I tried to simplify the mousetrap a little. They sure are nice when properly adjusted and maintained.
@@pacificmike9501 they are not too hard to look at either, with or without the cover.
Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike! This was perfect as I rehabilitate a 1966 FL. I found a hole at the front end of the clutch lever rod end. It looks like it _should_ have a zerk, but I'm given to understand that the factory intended us to pump a little oil in there now and again. Does this sound right? I'd rather have a zerk, but there's not really enough depth to thread one in.
You are correct. It s an oil hole. I have a tendency to pull it off and grease it with some good bearing grease. It's just routine stuff when I'm playing with it.
Nice! Hope to see the same on the shovel build. Thanks!
Also, what are you supposed to do with the clutch rod and lock nut under the derby cover after getting the cable adjusted?
We already did the shovelhead primary, no mousetrap, not necessary with the clutch we're using. We continue to do things as they come up. Hope you find this stuff useful to you.
Nothing. It should be adjusted to put the arm in the right position, then locked down. Always leave a little play in the arm to keep from wearing out the throwout bearing prematurely. Then adjust the mousetrap in the proper sequence.
We do this stuff as it comes up and we think it will benefit someone. But there will be more on the Shovel. And thank you for watching.
much appreciated by this guy.
And, we appreciate you.
I am ALWAYS impressed by your knowledge, but more so by your ability to impart that knowledge. Man, You should put out a video series on DVD! "Pacific Mike's Secrets of the OG Harley's"... Let me know so I can be the first one to get a copy! (Or the set!) Thank you again for making me smarter than I was 12 1/2 MInutes ago.
I thank you. I've had the suggestion several times. Every time I bring it up, people say, " DVD's are obsolete."
Mike, putting mousetrap on my pan and can't find a stainless braided cable to work with 7/8" dia. drag bars. stock length is of course too long for my liking. where did you get your cable? same issue for springer brake cable. I measured the outer jacket at 23" for the clutch cable and 39" for the brake cable. any help appreciated. BTW really liked the LC Panhead series videos. Also do you have a video on rebuilding star hub to original specs?
Doug
Mike I hope that in the near future you will add a way to support your wonderful work and it’s a great service you so kindly give. I would love to help you with some money and I’m sure that you would be surprised pleasantly. I had a good friend Gary Woodford. And he had the same easy way about him he passed away on my birthday 9-27-05 and I have a 05 police bike and I call it woddy. But I degress you a great teacher. And Gary helped me out a lot. Best Regards Robert S Raper
Thank You, Steve. It took me a bit of time to answer your letter. The name "Gary Woodford," struck a note. I honestly don't remember meeting him, but, I feel very complimented just the same. Quite a few years back, I met Randy Simpson at the V-Twin Expo in Cincinatti. We had quite a conversation. Having been in the bike business a long time, we had been doing business and it was great to meet him in person. All the TV stuff was in full bloom at that point. But, it was a great conversation. Randy was sitting on a bike, posing for pictures. He was getting a real kick out of the whole thing. The coolest thing was this little boy who wanted his picture taken with the famous biker. Randy treated that child like only a real good guy knows how to do. It was great. And, that's what happens when you jog My memory. I'm truly sorry you've lost Gary. Before my best friend passed in 03, we made each other a promise that we'd eventually open another shop together.
I introduced Gary to Randy who was a childhood friend Gary was afraid of Randy. He was always loud I didn’t pay much attention to that. I helped him start in his mother’s basement. I told Randy that the old guys called the motorcycles. Milwaukee Iron and a state trooper is the owner of Milwaukee iron 2 It’s in Mertill Beach South Carolina. He handled Randy when he was doing some coportaing with the police. He comes from Lynchburg Virginia where he was known as Honest Floyd at least he was by the people who knew him. I would restore the old motors. And Gary would be thinking of something that was a pleasure to watch. I thank you for sharing and being so kind. Best Regards Robert S Raper
Mike, great video and thank you. A question. On the mousetrap bell crank where the rod to the clutch arm attaches, it looks like an extra hole has been drilled to locate the rod a little higher. Why was this done? To clear the big spring end? Or is there some mechanical advantage gained by doing this?
The factory added a second location in 65 to clear the new big primaries and electric starter. The mousetrap on my Knucklehead is from a 65-67 bike.
Hi Mike,
Again , thank you for what you do! I'm a true fan. I'm going from a cable system to a mousetrap. I have nothing for the mousetrap yet. Watching your video it looks like I'll need a longer clutch arm. Mine only comes out about half way out under my oil tank. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. 1952 FL. I'm going from a swing arm frame to the new(to me) 52 ridged frame I have it in now so some things work and some not so much. Also wondering if my old oil tank bottom mounting plate will be the same or not. I have the new ridged frame oil tank.
You could find all the hardware pieces you need (clutch arm, rod, cable, oil tank mounting brackets) in a V-Twin catalog, complete with all of the diagrams that will answer all of those questions. Most aftermarket shops are dealers for them. That's V-Twin or Tedd Cycle. They go by both names.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks mike. You're the best!
Mike, another great video! So glad I found your channel. I have a question concerning the placement of the mousetrap on the frame. Is there a recommended measurement of where it’s mounted on the frame? Mine is off the bike and my restoration is taking way longer than expected and I failed to take notes on this when I removed it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I've never found that measurement, if there is one. Personally, I like to see the rod parallel with the ground. But then, if the bikes not exactly level (usually not), I think it's a good question I can't answer.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike. I suppose the clutch rod being parallel is a good start and as long as nothing interferes or binds it should work as intended. Just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything crucial. Thanks for the info and your expertise.
It's good to question any of it.
Mike, what would make the perfect Harley?
Most comfortable, Most Reliable, Best year all in one bike.. what would that bike be?
What model?
What year?
What size motor?
Basically the perfect build in your opinion if price and availability of parts was no issue?
Could this perfect build be capable of 200,000 miles if ( meticulously, obsessively maintained ) with no major repairs? Cylinder honing, Trans rebuild etc?
This is old machinery. It's really about "smiles per mile." A Shovelhead runs like a Shovelhead. A Knucklehead runs like a Knucklehead. They're all different. My Panhead is a sweet natured old "do anything" bike that's loads of fun to ride. My Knucklehead is a period chopper, not for the faint hearted, certainly an "E Ticket" ride. They're all different. Best? Best at what, on what day, for what occasion?
Pacific Mike Best cruiser, best at reliability, best at comfort, a bike you can ride 10 hours and your back won’t hurt.
Holy cow. Outstanding video
Glad you liked it!
Man I adjusted and adjusted. Hated it. Would get hung in the engaged position. Finally saw it was so slightly dragging the clutch arm across the top of the tab that the outer primary bolts to the inner primary cover.
Hi Pacific Mike, I just started watching your videos. You a great teacher and great mechanic. I have a question for you. How much of your mechanical ability is natural, and how much is just accumulated from hands on practice over the years? Did you have trouble learning at first or was it fairly easy to you?
Thank You. I grew up in a gas station. My dad was a wrench. He was very hard on me, but, taught me as best he could. He had a massive temper and very little patience. But he was a very good guy. I decided early on, I really loved and respected his values and morals. But, I didn't want his less desireable traits. I passed him wrenches as a little kid. By the time I was 14 or 15, he was passing me wrenches. I went on to learn more from some very great older guys. It just goes on forever.
Got my fingers 'trapped" back in 1973 on my 51. Hurt like hell
I do say, "Be careful."
Thank you very much for you videos, they are very helpful.
Could I ask what the length of your clutch rod is? It looks longer than stock.
I just went out and measured it. I wasn't about to remove it. It measured (estimating how far it threaded in) 21 3/4". This stuff is a little tough to remember. You're dealing with aftermarket stuff. There are different lengths for different models. In my shop, I always had several around to choose from. Now, we need to figure it out. With a foot clutch, there appear to be two different lengths, 36-64 (for bikes with tin primaries), and 65-84 (for bikes with cast aluminum primaries). Then we have bikes that came with mousetraps. That created two lengths, 52-67 and 65-67. My Knuckle certainly didn't come with a mousetrap, so it has whatever would work. I suggest Tedd Cycle in New York. They list it all in their catalog.
Just discovered your videos Mike. They are great. I just picked up a 1950 pan and was wondering if there was any way I could get in contact with you and pick your brain for some knowledge. Keep up the good work!
I am retired and kinda private, except when I go out to play. I'll be glad to try and help you through the comment section. And, I try to make the Long Beach CA motorcycle swap meet. It's on every month.
@@pacificmike9501 I live in So cal as well, I'll try and make it to the swap meet one of these days. The videos have been incredibly helpful, thank you to you and your crew for what you guys do!
Damn Super good informative walk thru technique!!!!! I remember growing up My Dad had a 48 pan and some of his buddies ran little knuckel heads quite a few had pans another had the big flathead some wifes had 45s My Dad started the chopper craze in ohio and built a bunch in our little barn in the winter some in our kitchen.. Mom bitched a lot when he had gear boxes and crankcases old linkerts and su carbs on the table HHHAHAA I still remember the hasstle they had with the clutch on a few of the old hogs Where were You Mike 45 years ago? OOPS now Im dating myself Soon to be 56 .... How old are You may I ask? Again another great video. please keep the wrenches turning and the bikes running!!! bob
Glad you like it! Sounds like you grew up in a magical environment. Yes I'm older than you. 45 years ago, I was riding a Panhead Chopper.
Hi Mike, I can't tell you how much help your videos have been to me. I am working on my 1961 FL, which I do have a manual for, it has a BDL belt drive but other than that it's pretty much stock. I have followed your adjustment video pretty darn closely but I am running into a problem. It doesn't want to go into first gear and even if I try and put it into second it grids very badly. I took it apart for a clean up and adjustment. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks Again, Stan
All I can do is an educated guess. If the clutch is not adjusted properly, the mousetrap could be perfect yet not act right. Start at the beginning. Is the throwout bearing and rod working well? Inspect them to be sure. Then go through the clutch plates and springs. Don't forget to make sure nothing is hanging up in the cutch basket or on the hub. Make sure the plates are spreading evenly. With the motor off, you should be able to disengage the clutch and turn it by hand.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike, I appreciate the quick response. I'll give it another run through. Keep up the good work, we definitely appreciate it.
Thank you for this video! Very helpful on understanding the mousetrap. One question Mike:
Is there different springs for the mousetrap for different years HD?
I have a mousetrap that was operating a 1949 Panhead motor when I Moved it to my 1964 Panhead the spring seems too strong for the clutch. Thanks again!
Not to my knowledge. Is everything lubed well? I mean, the ends of rods, the bearing in the mousetrap? Do you have all of the angles right? Is the clutch itself clean and operating properly? I don't mean to be too repetitious, but, "If you don't like the way it works, start over again at the very beginning, beginning with the clutch itself." And make sure that throwout bearing is functioning well.
Mike,
I have a 77 shovelhead lowrider fxs. Any tips on removal and reinstall of clutch cable ?
Love the videos
Not really. The book will do you right. However, I hang a new cable on the wall and fill it with "Break Free" overnight, then install it.
I'm going to have to watch this wile I do the installation. Assuming I get the thing installed I bought it 12 years ago and made curved shims so I could clear the front head. But I have other things that are more important that she needs first.
In a perfect world, we get around to everything, sooner or later.
Cool and clear explanation ! i suscribed !! Love u clips !
Thank you. Believe it or not, I don't do Facebook. Probably going to soon.