thanks for taking the time. This video is packed with all kinds of little tips that can only be learned by experience (or watching your video) and will save hours of frustration. Thumbs up to you and your crew.
I completely agree with ghulands -- you do have the best Nudura content on UA-cam, in fact, much better even than Nudura itself. Nudura should sponsor you to do a real instructional set of videos. You, not Nudura, sold me on Nudura for my next (and first) ICF project.
Best icf video on UA-cam and you make it fun and funny. I’m moving from hawaii to Montana (people think I’m crazy)and I been watching your video and learning from you. I’m gonna be using Nudura .Thanks boss. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. I did concrete block basements for years buddy . Id like to hug the dude that invented ICF. LOL Such a nice product and user friendly. Thats why I started this channel. 👍😊
Seeing the mess the bracing was in reminded me about a guy that borrowed a mortar mixer and some power tools from my dad. When we picked it up, the power tools were inside the mortar mixer which was filled with rusty water, the motor was also drowned, and the shaft was bent. The tools were scrap, and dad, being the resourceful guy he was, heated the shaft with an acetylene-oxygen torch and straightened it with a hammer, then he mounted a 3-speed washing machine motor. We could slow it down to add material, speed it to mix it slow it to dump, etc. He made lemonade from them lemons. Be careful to whom you loan tools.
Bondo! Your Nudura videos saved my a$$ when we did our own garage foundation this year. (check the vids of our progress over on my channel). Our tips and tricks helped us first-timers feel like pros, even though we had a small blowout. Thanks! Keep up the good work!
Hi Ron. I see how you've done your intrusions of sewer and water and other utilities. Here in Alberta we just bring everything into the envelope prior to pouring the floor and save punching and sealing additional holes. I'll be building entirely from blocks as the weather can go for days in the - 40 F range and up to a week or so of 100 F days so building for the future. I'll be using all of the thermal mass to not only decrease heating costs but cooling as well and to top of the structure 10 or 12" structural insulation panels. Top it off with hail proof once in a lifetime steel roof. I'll put in a boiler for in floor heating and hot water and an HRV unit for air handling. Electric will be as much low voltage as possible and triple pane glass and you get the idea by now where my goals are headed. Did you just use normal Nadura or the extra thick? I did notice you assembled on site and saved on shipping that way.
No do You have a lot of good videos. I am installing 6 inch Build Block on an addition for 2 bedrooms and a master bath. The ICF is footer to roof between 12 to 14 foot vertical walls. It has been hard to find and engineer for rebar reinforcement. It seems 16 inch spacing number 4 bar horizontal works , any recommendations on vertical spacing ? We have this project and a much more elaborate project with ICF gable ends and maybe wrap around windows. Thanks in advance Tim
Hi Bondo, I've watched a few of your videos, very good & straight forward. I'm wondering if you have done a video covering corners that aren't a 90° corner, something like a 45°, or 35° etc. If you have done a video on those can you share a link to it ? Thanks
Don. Thanks for the feedback. i unfortunately have not done a video on this but if I run into a job that requires that I will for sure do a video on it. I am always looking for feedback from my viewers and video ideas that will help you guys. Thanks Bondo
GREAT real life tips and tricks video, Ron! I agree with all the comments on how yours are the best Nudura videos on the internet. Question: have you used those Nudura EPS end caps in doorways and windows, and if so, what do you think of them. One the one hand, it creates a thermal break, but on the other, you don’t have the strong buck-to-concrete connection. (Maybe I’m just incorrect as to where you’d use those EPS pieces?) thanks!
Hi Bondo, love your videos....thanks for sharing. What is the highest single poor wall have you done? Im planning to build soon and have a 12foot wall....wondering if i can do it in a single poor. Thanks!
Great music! Forgot this question in comment below. I have an existing ICF foundation wall that I plan to extend upwards to full 8' ceiling. How would you treat this horizontal "cold joint" where my new blocks will meet the old? The existing is 2 blocks high sitting on an approved footer, the Inspector told me it was all checked out and passed 5 years ago. Nothing special planned for this building, other than PRACTICE, just some secure storage and possibly a bunk house while we build new home on site. Thanks for great informative videos!
Thanks for the great comments. I would drill some holes in the old wall every 18” and use 2 part epoxy to glue in 5/8” rebar dowels. then you could go up with the new wall. if the locking nubs are full of concrete just rip down some plywood to 12” and use that to plate the old wall to the new pare by screwing 6” to the old and 6’ to the new wall. Use 2-1/2” roofing screws to fasten them together. I would zip 2 screws in per stud on both the old and new blocks. run these 12” X 8’ plywood stripd horizontally. Let me know if that makes sense to ya. 👍 Bondo
@@bondobuilt386 Sounds like a great plan. Thanks for taking the time to explain! Mean it! I copied it to my job folder. Hopefully the cowboys that poured it used a straight string. Have a great day!
After a while I got a discount at my favorite equipment rental because I returned the equipment cleaned and ready to go out again. A little bit of effort can pay well.
Kevin. I used a battery powered skill saw and finished cutting through with a hand saw but I would use a saws all next time with a metal blade or all purpose to finish the cuts. . there is 2 pieces of wire at each plastic stud. That will dull a hand saw pretty quick. lol
Jonathan your more than welcome buddy. 👍 I think Nudura is the best block out there. less seams to deal with and they fold flat and that is nice too. Many other reasons I like them. I will send you a video I did comparing blocks to Nudura.
Concrete is strong in compression, weak in tension. A beam compresses at the top as it sags/bares weight and is stretched at the bottom. These forces decrease as they approach the center of the beam. So the steel at the bottom is providing the most help, the steel at the top provides little, the bar hanging in the middle provides next to zero additive strength. Put it instead down with the other 2.
Thanks for that explanation. I agree. Have to be careful putting to much rebar in one area it clogs up the concrete when pouring but in the headers it should be good. Thanks again. 👍
Have you ever heard of or worked with an alternate form of ICF construction called, Nexcem? It is Canadian. Instead of using styrofoam for the walls of the building blocks, they precast the blocks with a wood fiber/cement compound and put rockwool inserts on one side of the block on the inside in order to get the desire R value for the whole wall. You still pour concrete into the inside like any ICF construction. Same concepts but different materials. If you do, please make a video.
Just sent off for Nudura quotes on two different projects from footing to the roof, lumber cost soooo high right now, seems like a better deal What are your thoughts on that?
I think that’s a great idea. Lumber is stupid right now. The ICF is a great alternative to a wood house. One downfall is changing anything or adding on. That would not be easy. Lol
@@bondobuilt386 Thank you sir for the reply. I am doing a cost comparison sheet and it is looking good for the ICF. $25 bucks for a sheet of 7/16"x4x8 OSB ??? WHAT!! It is a little after "happy hour" so i forgot my main question in this comment , I added it in next one.
Usually a couple days because we poured the floor with only one course down. Then we build the structure and brace it. I used 2-1/2” tap con anchors. 2 in each brace plate to hold it to the floor. Never have had a problem and have done several that way. Happy building 👍👍
Mike we rent it from the store I get the blocks from. It comes all packaged in crates. It usually takes two crates to do an average size basement. The crates can be unloaded with a fork lift or I have forks for my tractor.
The issue (rant really), I have with IFC is the same as I have with most on-site constructed housing methods, cost control and little regard for obsolescence. Yes, IFC does potentially eliminate involving a traditional wall form sub-contractor, and yes the IFC wall is strong and energy efficient. What ICF does NOT do is address runaway cost of new home construction. Of course the 'odd' DIY home builder will use IFC to his own advantage, but typically IFC's will be sold and installed by a contractor. This country's inventory of homes built pre-1970 are by now mostly functionally and/or energy obsolete. No one knows the which advances will prevail after 50 years, we certainly didn't know in 1970. As consumers, it's time to stop thinking of homes as medieval rock-pile castles that need to last a 1000 years. New construction should be priced, financed, and constructed with obsolescence in mind, and 100% recyclability as a goal. Factory built homes can be set anywhere with a no or very minimal concrete foundation, and they've incorporated cutting edge energy efficiency since HUD re-wrote the rules 30+ years ago. 'Mobile home' stigma aside, and with tweaking to improve recyclability, a factory built home is the logical path forward. Future homes need to be thought of little differently then any device or machine that is eventually used up, scrapped, and replaced with something better. PS..I'm not a manufactured home dealer or in the manufactured home biz, but my last 3 homes have been manufactured types. My current home is certified wind zone 3 (110mph wind), with almost no concrete underneath.
@@bondobuilt386 It's a HUD 'mobile home'; there's individual pads for stacked CMU leveler/piers in a pattern under the main frames. It's tropical here so frost isn't a consideration, and the sandy subgrade drains freely. Anchoring seems to be accomplished by fairly heavy gauge metal strapping connected to tie-down strap ratchets, with both diagonal and vertical strap tie-downs attached to earth anchors (so it appears anyway). It's possible that some perimeter tie down anchors are connected to a buried concrete deadman, I'm unsure since they are not visible and I'm not the original owner. There is no 'crawl' slab, just a vapor barrier over the grade. Skirting consist of widely spaced aluminum slats, and probably expendable in a big wind. It seems like HUD Zone 3 tiedown requirements are regularly scrutinized by HUD, and strengthened as methods evolve. My home is probably a couple generations behind the latest zone 3 tie-down code. Lots of similar homes in my area, many have been here for 40 or 50 years. Mine was built in 1972, and still looks great. There have been updates of course but the home has withstood whatever was thrown at it (5 miles inland from the Atlantic:)
@@bondobuilt386 Me too. I was an independent, small potatoes GC up north for much of my working life (retired from that now). I've seen many construction trends playout over time, and I tend to be cynical of local restrictive codes and builder motives. Quality affordable housing is given lip service everywhere, but in reality it's a joke. Townships and builders generally want nothing to do with free standing, affordable homes. The truth is that 2 people can live very comfortably in a well designed 500 to 700sf free standing home (I'm not talking about the silly tiny home trend, no offence to your nice mobile hunting lodge:). I enjoy your channel, keep it up.
Hi it depends on the length of the walls. Some even dimensions will line up without common seams but some odd sizes will not. We use the steel roofing screws 2-1/2” long for plywood plates and 3-1/2” deck screws for the 2x4 material we screw to a wall. 👍
How are you getting that concrete to flow under the windows without any voids? There’s only a few vertical spots to feed from and a whole run of blocks under the windows
Never mind, I saw your next video, and I saw where you left the bottom out until you filled it up. This is great information, I’m starting my icf foundation this week
Michael Flores I was just gonna send you a link to the pour. Lol Glad the video is helpful. Reach out if you have any questions during your project. 👍👍
I wish you'd turn the music off so I can hear You better. It's really irritating.I wish you would turn the music off so I could hear You better. It's really irritating.
Awesome fckn video.
ICF, cement, Bondo, a couple of biscuits, great music, and cold beer. Those are days you never forget!
Well done, boys!
LOL Thank you. We love this work.
Thanks for smiling. Enjoy seeing someone that loves their work and willing to share you knowledge. Great video. Very helpful to me.
We really enjoy this work. Im always glad to help you guys out if I can. 👍👍
You know, another nice thing about pouring the floor first is your new blocks are sitting on the nice clean floor! No mud and gunk! Love it!!
Yes I agree so nice to have a floor to work on. 😊
thanks for taking the time. This video is packed with all kinds of little tips that can only be learned by experience (or watching your video) and will save hours of frustration. Thumbs up to you and your crew.
I completely agree with ghulands -- you do have the best Nudura content on UA-cam, in fact, much better even than Nudura itself. Nudura should sponsor you to do a real instructional set of videos. You, not Nudura, sold me on Nudura for my next (and first) ICF project.
Thank you that’s a nice comment. Doing the videos are fun. Tell Nudura to give me a buzz. Lol
The best icf video yet! Keep up the good work!
Thanks Jason 👍🤜
Best icf video on UA-cam and you make it fun and funny. I’m moving from hawaii to Montana (people think I’m crazy)and I been watching your video and learning from you. I’m gonna be using Nudura .Thanks boss. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Richard stay tuned bud we are doing some more ICF Nudura walls as we speak. 👍😊
After being on a wall crew building basements and flipping panels here in Indiana these things are amazing!!! Wish I would’ve had these 15 years ago
1.2K + 👍's up BB thank you for sharing 🤗
Who said learning to put together Lincoln logs and legos couldn't be a job. They do make it easy from past ways. Keep it up.
Thanks. I did concrete block basements for years buddy . Id like to hug the dude that invented ICF. LOL Such a nice product and user friendly. Thats why I started this channel. 👍😊
All good stuff.. The information, the work crew, and the environment. Thanks
Thank you James. We try to make it fun but get it done at the same time. 😊
Great Video. Thanks for showing how you set up the ICF blocks. Planning a new build for myself and wanting to go with the Nadura blocks.
Christian. Glad the video was helpful. If you have any questions before or during the build don't hesitate to reach out to me buddy. 👍👍
Just had to wait for the next video to see how you attached the braces. Great that your crew/sons can have fun on the job!
Yes we try and enjoy ourselves Tom. 👍
If you can't have some fun doing something it's probably not worth doing, imho.
It's a very good system
Seeing the mess the bracing was in reminded me about a guy that borrowed a mortar mixer and some power tools from my dad. When we picked it up, the power tools were inside the mortar mixer which was filled with rusty water, the motor was also drowned, and the shaft was bent.
The tools were scrap, and dad, being the resourceful guy he was, heated the shaft with an acetylene-oxygen torch and straightened it with a hammer, then he mounted a 3-speed washing machine motor. We could slow it down to add material, speed it to mix it slow it to dump, etc. He made lemonade from them lemons.
Be careful to whom you loan tools.
Great story and yes some don't take care of nothing they borrow or rent.
good explaination, did all the good clicks and likes
Thanks Ken
Bondo! Your Nudura videos saved my a$$ when we did our own garage foundation this year. (check the vids of our progress over on my channel). Our tips and tricks helped us first-timers feel like pros, even though we had a small blowout. Thanks! Keep up the good work!
Awesome I am so glad that the videos helped you out. 👍
Hi Ron. I see how you've done your intrusions of sewer and water and other utilities.
Here in Alberta we just bring everything into the envelope prior to pouring the floor and save punching and sealing additional holes.
I'll be building entirely from blocks as the weather can go for days in the - 40 F range and up to a week or so of 100 F days so building for the future.
I'll be using all of the thermal mass to not only decrease heating costs but cooling as well and to top of the structure 10 or 12" structural insulation panels. Top it off with hail proof once in a lifetime steel roof.
I'll put in a boiler for in floor heating and hot water and an HRV unit for air handling.
Electric will be as much low voltage as possible and triple pane glass and you get the idea by now where my goals are headed.
Did you just use normal Nadura or the extra thick? I did notice you assembled on site and saved on shipping that way.
No do
You have a lot of good videos.
I am installing 6 inch Build Block on an addition for 2 bedrooms and a master bath.
The ICF is footer to roof between 12 to 14 foot vertical walls.
It has been hard to find and engineer for rebar reinforcement.
It seems 16 inch spacing number 4 bar horizontal works , any recommendations on vertical spacing ?
We have this project and a much more elaborate project with ICF gable ends and maybe wrap around windows.
Thanks in advance
Tim
Hi Bondo, I've watched a few of your videos, very good & straight forward. I'm wondering if you have done a video covering corners that aren't a 90° corner, something like a 45°, or 35° etc. If you have done a video on those can you share a link to it ? Thanks
Don. Thanks for the feedback. i unfortunately have not done a video on this but if I run into a job that requires that I will for sure do a video on it. I am always looking for feedback from my viewers and video ideas that will help you guys.
Thanks
Bondo
GREAT real life tips and tricks video, Ron! I agree with all the comments on how yours are the best Nudura videos on the internet.
Question: have you used those Nudura EPS end caps in doorways and windows, and if so, what do you think of them. One the one hand, it creates a thermal break, but on the other, you don’t have the strong buck-to-concrete connection. (Maybe I’m just incorrect as to where you’d use those EPS pieces?) thanks!
Hi Bondo, love your videos....thanks for sharing. What is the highest single poor wall have you done? Im planning to build soon and have a 12foot wall....wondering if i can do it in a single poor. Thanks!
Great music! Forgot this question in comment below.
I have an existing ICF foundation wall that I plan to extend upwards to full 8' ceiling.
How would you treat this horizontal "cold joint" where my new blocks will meet the old? The existing is 2 blocks high sitting on an approved footer, the Inspector told me it was all checked out and passed 5 years ago. Nothing special planned for this building, other than PRACTICE, just some secure storage and possibly a bunk house while we build new home on site.
Thanks for great informative videos!
Thanks for the great comments. I would drill some holes in the old wall every 18” and use 2 part epoxy to glue in 5/8” rebar dowels. then you could go up with the new wall. if the locking nubs are full of concrete just rip down some plywood to 12” and use that to plate the old wall to the new pare by screwing 6” to the old and 6’ to the new wall. Use 2-1/2” roofing screws to fasten them together. I would zip 2 screws in per stud on both the old and new blocks. run these 12” X 8’ plywood stripd horizontally. Let me know if that makes sense to ya. 👍
Bondo
@@bondobuilt386 Sounds like a great plan. Thanks for taking the time to explain! Mean it! I copied it to my job folder. Hopefully the cowboys that poured it used a straight string. Have a great day!
@@mikemillken2874 Ya hopefully it's straight and level. LOL if it's not level you can cut the top course before you pour it.
After a while I got a discount at my favorite equipment rental because I returned the equipment cleaned and ready to go out again. A little bit of effort can pay well.
I wish everybody had that attitude Bill. 👍👍
Another informative video 👍🏻👍🏻 Like to see how you cut down the Nudura block from 18” to 15” over the window 🤔
Kevin. I used a battery powered skill saw and finished cutting through with a hand saw but I would use a saws all next time with a metal blade or all purpose to finish the cuts. . there is 2 pieces of wire at each plastic stud. That will dull a hand saw pretty quick. lol
So plunge cut with the skill saw 👍 Then the saws all. Was wondering if you used an electric chainsaw on them 😆
@@Kevinwbaker100 never tried a chain saw. Lol
I had been following your videos and I enjoyed a lot. What are your thoughts on the fiber rebar? I am curious.
Keep the videos coming!
U have never used the fiber rebar. I would need to look into that but I'm not sure it's available in my area I have never seen it.
I don't think it's available in my local area I have never seen it or used it. Would like to learn more though.
I was looking at Buildblock, but I'm interested in Nudura now. Which is generally cheaper to build with? Thank you for the great vids!
Jonathan your more than welcome buddy. 👍 I think Nudura is the best block out there. less seams to deal with and they fold flat and that is nice too. Many other reasons I like them. I will send you a video I did comparing blocks to Nudura.
ua-cam.com/video/OpMnqP4trQ0/v-deo.html
Thank you. :)
Glad you enjoyed the video Richard. 👍
@@bondobuilt386 Your ICF videos are always GREAT to see on UA-cam so thank you and thumbs UP. :)
i would never let that guy use my scaffold again after the way he gave it back
It's not even mine its my buddies but ya I was not happy. 👎👎
Concrete is strong in compression, weak in tension. A beam compresses at the top as it sags/bares weight and is stretched at the bottom. These forces decrease as they approach the center of the beam. So the steel at the bottom is providing the most help, the steel at the top provides little, the bar hanging in the middle provides next to zero additive strength. Put it instead down with the other 2.
Thanks for that explanation. I agree. Have to be careful putting to much rebar in one area it clogs up the concrete when pouring but in the headers it should be good.
Thanks again. 👍
How are you waterproofing the exterior below grade? Love to see a video!
We have been spraying closed cell foam on there the last couple builds we did. We also dig up basements and have them sprayed works great.
There is some pics of the spray foam in this video. ua-cam.com/video/6JO8mMN53bE/v-deo.html
They don’t have blocks like 1, 1/2 and 1/4 length, so you have more options as to where you can place your seams?
Have you ever heard of or worked with an alternate form of ICF construction called, Nexcem? It is Canadian. Instead of using styrofoam for the walls of the building blocks, they precast the blocks with a wood fiber/cement compound and put rockwool inserts on one side of the block on the inside in order to get the desire R value for the whole wall. You still pour concrete into the inside like any ICF construction. Same concepts but different materials. If you do, please make a video.
David Pantalone. Sorry I never have used them. Sounds interesting though. I’ll have to look it up. 👍
Good idea for areas with termites. I guess insurance companies don't like ICF in termite rich environments.
Will the foundation crack where you have the common seam
Going to DIY a basement ICF and was wondering if there is any place that will rent the bracing?
Ya Rob most places that sell the blocks will rent you the bracing as well. 👍😊
Just sent off for Nudura quotes on two different projects from footing to the roof, lumber cost soooo high right now, seems like a better deal
What are your thoughts on that?
I think that’s a great idea. Lumber is stupid right now. The ICF is a great alternative to a wood house. One downfall is changing anything or adding on. That would not be easy. Lol
@@bondobuilt386 Thank you sir for the reply.
I am doing a cost comparison sheet and it is looking good for the ICF. $25 bucks for a sheet of 7/16"x4x8 OSB ??? WHAT!!
It is a little after "happy hour" so i forgot my main question in this comment , I added it in next one.
@@mikemillken2874 Yes thats crazy for OSB. I'm gonna have to fire up my sawmill just to make up some form lumber. Lol
@@bondobuilt386 Well in the big cities Plywood is the new GLASS, add in Hurricane season and pissed off Canadians ??
Why are the canadians pissed off. Elaborate please
Always find that if the basement is poured first there is increased moisture problems in the basement.
Hi Mark. How would you not pour the basement first?
Did you install the capillary break at the bottom of the wall between the wall and the slab?
no we did not
Bondo, where is your company? You are close by and I'd like to talk about this. thx
Thanks. were out of Mexico New York.
How long do you wait from pouring the slab to securing the braces to it? How are you attaching it to the slab?
Usually a couple days because we poured the floor with only one course down. Then we build the structure and brace it. I used 2-1/2” tap con anchors. 2 in each brace plate to hold it to the floor. Never have had a problem and have done several that way. Happy building 👍👍
@@bondobuilt386 thanks for the info. You have the absolute best content for the nudura system on youtube, then dirt perfect.
ghulands thank you that’s quite a compliment. 👍😊
What states are you serving? In case i want to hire you.
You ever do a pool ????
No not yet.
Why not use 8 ft length of plywood at common seams vs multiple individual pieces ?
Hi James I have all these scraps of plywood laying around so there free. Leftover stuff from other projects. 😊
Do you rent the bracing or does it have to be purchased?
Mike we rent it from the store I get the blocks from. It comes all packaged in crates. It usually takes two crates to do an average size basement. The crates can be unloaded with a fork lift or I have forks for my tractor.
The issue (rant really), I have with IFC is the same as I have with most on-site constructed housing methods, cost control and little regard for obsolescence. Yes, IFC does potentially eliminate involving a traditional wall form sub-contractor, and yes the IFC wall is strong and energy efficient. What ICF does NOT do is address runaway cost of new home construction. Of course the 'odd' DIY home builder will use IFC to his own advantage, but typically IFC's will be sold and installed by a contractor. This country's inventory of homes built pre-1970 are by now mostly functionally and/or energy obsolete. No one knows the which advances will prevail after 50 years, we certainly didn't know in 1970. As consumers, it's time to stop thinking of homes as medieval rock-pile castles that need to last a 1000 years. New construction should be priced, financed, and constructed with obsolescence in mind, and 100% recyclability as a goal.
Factory built homes can be set anywhere with a no or very minimal concrete foundation, and they've incorporated cutting edge energy efficiency since HUD re-wrote the rules 30+ years ago. 'Mobile home' stigma aside, and with tweaking to improve recyclability, a factory built home is the logical path forward. Future homes need to be thought of little differently then any device or machine that is eventually used up, scrapped, and replaced with something better.
PS..I'm not a manufactured home dealer or in the manufactured home biz, but my last 3 homes have been manufactured types. My current home is certified wind zone 3 (110mph wind), with almost no concrete underneath.
What does your house sit on? Stone?
@@bondobuilt386 It's a HUD 'mobile home'; there's individual pads for stacked CMU leveler/piers in a pattern under the main frames. It's tropical here so frost isn't a consideration, and the sandy subgrade drains freely. Anchoring seems to be accomplished by fairly heavy gauge metal strapping connected to tie-down strap ratchets, with both diagonal and vertical strap tie-downs attached to earth anchors (so it appears anyway). It's possible that some perimeter tie down anchors are connected to a buried concrete deadman, I'm unsure since they are not visible and I'm not the original owner. There is no 'crawl' slab, just a vapor barrier over the grade. Skirting consist of widely spaced aluminum slats, and probably expendable in a big wind. It seems like HUD Zone 3 tiedown requirements are regularly scrutinized by HUD, and strengthened as methods evolve. My home is probably a couple generations behind the latest zone 3 tie-down code. Lots of similar homes in my area, many have been here for 40 or 50 years. Mine was built in 1972, and still looks great. There have been updates of course but the home has withstood whatever was thrown at it (5 miles inland from the Atlantic:)
@@terrylutke Awesome thats interesting. Thanks for the info. I love seeing and hearing how things are done in diferent areas. 👍😊
@@bondobuilt386 Me too. I was an independent, small potatoes GC up north for much of my working life (retired from that now). I've seen many construction trends playout over time, and I tend to be cynical of local restrictive codes and builder motives. Quality affordable housing is given lip service everywhere, but in reality it's a joke. Townships and builders generally want nothing to do with free standing, affordable homes. The truth is that 2 people can live very comfortably in a well designed 500 to 700sf free standing home (I'm not talking about the silly tiny home trend, no offence to your nice mobile hunting lodge:). I enjoy your channel, keep it up.
How long does a wall have to be so that you don’t get a common seam? Also, what kind of screws do you use for the common seam boards?
Hi it depends on the length of the walls. Some even dimensions will line up without common seams but some odd sizes will not. We use the steel roofing screws 2-1/2” long for plywood plates and 3-1/2” deck screws for the 2x4 material we screw to a wall. 👍
@@bondobuilt386 thank you😊
@@Dipper964 you bet 👍😊
NO REBAR FROM FOOTER TO THE WALL?
Yes Tom there is rebar in the footer every 18” We wet set them when we pored the footer. 👍
What city in New York do you all live and work in?
Mexico New York. 30 minutes north of Syracuse
How are you getting that concrete to flow under the windows without any voids? There’s only a few vertical spots to feed from and a whole run of blocks under the windows
Never mind, I saw your next video, and I saw where you left the bottom out until you filled it up. This is great information, I’m starting my icf foundation this week
Michael Flores I was just gonna send you a link to the pour. Lol
Glad the video is helpful. Reach out if you have any questions during your project. 👍👍
Thank you!
I wish you'd turn the music off so I can hear You better. It's really irritating.I wish you would turn the music off so I could hear You better. It's really irritating.
Thanks for telling me twice. Thanks for telling me twice
Amateurish! The constant camera shifting made me dizzy. May be some gems in the presentation, but for me it raised more questions than it answered.
You seem to watch a lot of my videos Larry for someone who does not like the way I do videos. LOL