Dope, love the innovation! Also that older style checker with the tape you used requires check springs too! pain in the butt to also install. This can be used easily with aftermarket springs.
Great demo on how to use the tool. HOWEVER, it would've been beneficial for some inexperienced guys to show the EO/IC procedure FIRST. You can't just remove a rocker and check for preload!! The lifter MUST be on the base circle FIRST. May seem obvious, but only to the experienced wrench. To the beginner, this could result in a damaged tool, or worse, a damaged engine.....
That’s because you are measuring the pushrod differently from how the manufacturer does. Look up how Manley measures pushrods and you’ll understand why they are .020 longer then you measure
When calling your pushrod manufacturer and tell them your measure and include as measured with a caliper. I told Manton I used an 8” caliper to measure end to end and my PRs came back to the exact length I ordered. PRs are usually measured Cup seat to Cup Seat.
What you’re experiencing is that the length checker tools are actually giving you a gauge length which is what most pushrod manufacturers use as advertised length. But…when you measure your checking tool with a pair of dial calipers you are measuring the theoretical length over a full sphere. They’re two different measurements. Just tell your pushrod manufacturer that you used a length checker then measured with a caliper and got x number then added your preload. They should be able to get you where you need to be.
Dope, love the innovation! Also that older style checker with the tape you used requires check springs too! pain in the butt to also install. This can be used easily with aftermarket springs.
Great demo on how to use the tool. HOWEVER, it would've been beneficial for some inexperienced guys to show the EO/IC procedure FIRST. You can't just remove a rocker and check for preload!! The lifter MUST be on the base circle FIRST. May seem obvious, but only to the experienced wrench. To the beginner, this could result in a damaged tool, or worse, a damaged engine.....
The stainless steel and tight fitting pieces should make it a durable and precise measuring tool. I like it 👍.
So how much do you add if its an Aluminum Engine?
This is great and all…except every pushrod I’ve ever bought was about “0.020 longer than the advertised length. Nobody talks about this. Why?
That’s because you are measuring the pushrod differently from how the manufacturer does. Look up how Manley measures pushrods and you’ll understand why they are .020 longer then you measure
@@TrevorSlusser I understand why it happens but why not include an overall measurement?
When calling your pushrod manufacturer and tell them your measure and include as measured with a caliper.
I told Manton I used an 8” caliper to measure end to end and my PRs came back to the exact length I ordered. PRs are usually measured Cup seat to Cup Seat.
What you’re experiencing is that the length checker tools are actually giving you a gauge length which is what most pushrod manufacturers use as advertised length. But…when you measure your checking tool with a pair of dial calipers you are measuring the theoretical length over a full sphere. They’re two different measurements. Just tell your pushrod manufacturer that you used a length checker then measured with a caliper and got x number then added your preload. They should be able to get you where you need to be.
It’s already got bad reviews on your website. Back to the drawing board guys.
It has 2 reviews, one 5 star and one 1 star. They say they have fixed the problem the one guy had.
You never described to make sure the cam lobe was at its base. Isn’t that important?