Great video and God BLESS you for the great explanation. Doing my first LS engine build and everything is smooth except for now that I’m adjusting these rockers. God will provide though!! Thanks for the awesome video
Thank you for taking the time to explain this. My first LM7 truck engine I did, I just had the heads cleaned up at 5 thou which the lifter could compensate for. I also had a valve job with new everything except the seats, those were good enough to just re-cut. Found out my stock 7.400 rods would have been to long and give me .125 of preload.
Extremely informational on this, I did my first cam on a gen 4 6.0L and the pushrods were doing my head in with the ticking and not knowing the base circle had changed. Big thank you from a dumb ass trying to get his engine right, and extra points on background tracks!
Just out of curiosity, what do you do for advertised pushrod length versus measured pushrod length? It seems most manufacturers have a little extra from 0.005 to 0.020 preload in the pushrod. For example, i buy a "7.375" pushrod but it measures 7.391 with the calipers. Many many pushrod manufactures have a little extra in there. Do i just factor in the extra and buy a pushrod a little smaller or roll with the what's advertised because that's what was measured?
Thanks for the info building a 6O in a C5 Texas Speed heads has been a nightmare 7.4 push rods but dont think the mechanic did the math or put the pushrods on the small lobe of the cam going to a performance shop today......
Do i need to check all 16 when using johnsons lifters? And when checking for exhaust valve do i turn the motor clock wise also until the intake rocker goes down??
I'm doing a head gasket job on an 07 Yukon Denali 6.2l. I got the heads on and now I'm doing the Rocker arms. I noticed when I'm torquing the arms some of the rockers slide from the center of the valve stem and moves closer to the edge of the spring. My valve springs are slightly compressed also when I finish torquing to 22 ft lbs. Can you tell me what can be the problem? I'm stumped
1st time measuring pushrod length here, but I have a question see if anyone could give me advice, I basically did everything like he did on the video even the math but with my measurements, so my intake is 7.2875 rounded it to 7.300 and my exhaust is 7.325, should I buy all the pushrods 7.325 or should I buy half and half?
If u change cam, heads or had heads milled. Different lifters or rockers as well. Basically if u have it apart why not just do it and save ourself some time and money
Yes you add it to whatever preload you need. Most lifters such as Johnson lifters will have a specific preload on the box. GM lifters have a much broader range and are more forgiving
yes. for the first method you have to add it. the second method (the turn method) accounts for the pre-load. I second what @Brandon Ouzts said - GM lifters have a really broad range. as long as you're in that range you're good. hope that helps!
Thank you for taking the time to explain this. My first LM7 truck engine I did, I just had the heads cleaned up at 5 thou which the lifter could compensate for. I also had a valve job with new everything except the seats, those were good enough to just re-cut. Found out my stock 7.400 rods would have been to long and give me .125 of preload. I also went with a Melling MTC7 cam.
Big thanks for taking the time to clearly explain this process. The other videos I’ve watched have been confusing.
This is the best tutorial I have found for this procedure
Great video and God BLESS you for the great explanation. Doing my first LS engine build and everything is smooth except for now that I’m adjusting these rockers. God will provide though!! Thanks for the awesome video
Thank you for taking the time to explain this. My first LM7 truck engine I did, I just had the heads cleaned up at 5 thou which the lifter could compensate for. I also had a valve job with new everything except the seats, those were good enough to just re-cut. Found out my stock 7.400 rods would have been to long and give me .125 of preload.
Very helpful thanks for the info
Extremely informational on this, I did my first cam on a gen 4 6.0L and the pushrods were doing my head in with the ticking and not knowing the base circle had changed. Big thank you from a dumb ass trying to get his engine right, and extra points on background tracks!
Great video, I like that you described it clearly in both methods.
Thank you!
Hopefully I can figure this out now
Just out of curiosity, what do you do for advertised pushrod length versus measured pushrod length? It seems most manufacturers have a little extra from 0.005 to 0.020 preload in the pushrod. For example, i buy a "7.375" pushrod but it measures 7.391 with the calipers. Many many pushrod manufactures have a little extra in there. Do i just factor in the extra and buy a pushrod a little smaller or roll with the what's advertised because that's what was measured?
About to build my LS swap and appreciate the video!
Thanks for the info building a 6O in a C5 Texas Speed heads has been a nightmare 7.4 push rods but dont think the mechanic did the math or put the pushrods on the small lobe of the cam going to a performance shop today......
Great stuff Brother!!!! Thanks!!!
I always torque the Fastner to spec then check for zero lash
Do i need to check all 16 when using johnsons lifters? And when checking for exhaust valve do i turn the motor clock wise also until the intake rocker goes down??
When checking measurement do you tighten all the way down or just finger tight
I'm doing a head gasket job on an 07 Yukon Denali 6.2l. I got the heads on and now I'm doing the Rocker arms. I noticed when I'm torquing the arms some of the rockers slide from the center of the valve stem and moves closer to the edge of the spring. My valve springs are slightly compressed also when I finish torquing to 22 ft lbs. Can you tell me what can be the problem? I'm stumped
Really helpful video 👌
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks,some good info.
1st time measuring pushrod length here, but I have a question see if anyone could give me advice, I basically did everything like he did on the video even the math but with my measurements, so my intake is 7.2875 rounded it to 7.300 and my exhaust is 7.325, should I buy all the pushrods 7.325 or should I buy half and half?
So you would only need to do this check if you change your cam, is this correct?
If u change cam, heads or had heads milled. Different lifters or rockers as well. Basically if u have it apart why not just do it and save ourself some time and money
I check it anytime anything changes. The checker tool is cheap compared the cost of ruining an engine.
@@JC-tg5xg Thanks!
🔥
did you add pre load to you length or did i miss it?
Yes you add it to whatever preload you need. Most lifters such as Johnson lifters will have a specific preload on the box. GM lifters have a much broader range and are more forgiving
yes. for the first method you have to add it. the second method (the turn method) accounts for the pre-load. I second what @Brandon Ouzts said - GM lifters have a really broad range. as long as you're in that range you're good. hope that helps!
Thank you for taking the time to explain this. My first LM7 truck engine I did, I just had the heads cleaned up at 5 thou which the lifter could compensate for. I also had a valve job with new everything except the seats, those were good enough to just re-cut. Found out my stock 7.400 rods would have been to long and give me .125 of preload. I also went with a Melling MTC7 cam.