How to Clean up Frame Rust on a Budget
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- Опубліковано 7 чер 2024
- How to clean up a rusty frame on a budget. Unfortunately the fender areas on this truck, both the front and rear seems to have the majority of rust with minimal frame paint left. Being that this truck was used in the country, the previous owner drove down quite a few gravel roads, which can basically sandblast any paint or finish off the existing metal components. Currently this truck also gets driven down gravel roads doing to the dump, so again it’s not really helping out this situation. Considering we live in a climate which has high humidity and we also experience winter, this type of environment promotes rust. #oemtools #rustrepair #autobody
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-wax and grease remover
-clean rags
-tape
-paper
-farm equipment implement paint
-paint brush
-wire brush
-scraper
-air powered surface sander
-air compressor
-sanding pads and discs
-oil spray rust preventative
-spray on rust converter
Procedure:
-remove any parts which will allow you to get easier access to rusty components
-wash the area using a degreaser to help remove any contaminants
-using a ball-peen hammer, lightly hit the surface of the frame to remove any scaling
-a mix between a wire brush and scraper can also be used to remove any rust scaling as well
-next grinding down the surface to remove the rest of the rust, here I am using a small portable air surface sander to remove the surface rust
-first starting out with an 80 to 120 grit abrasive pad
-a mask should also be used as this process can get quite dusty
-once satisfied, a majority of the rust should have been removed and then you can switch up to a 220 grit sanding disc
-switch up to 320 grit sandpaper as a final abrasive
-considering there is still rust pitting, this can be hard to clean so this will be chemically treated instead
-blow off the area using the air compressor to remove a majority of the dust from sanding
-give the area a wipe down using a wax and grease remover
-apply paper and tape to the areas you do not want painted and protected from overspray
-give the area another wipe down using a wax and grease remover
-using a spray on rust converter, follow the instructions as all products have different application processes and apply it to the frame
-allow the rust converter to dry
-apply a paint of your choice
-for this I was using a farm equipment implement paint which can be brushed or sprayed onto the frame
-if you can, it’s best to apply this on a cooler day
-if you have a softer brush, you’ll get a smoother finish but due to the rougher surface, the brush may not last as long
-I do not recommend using a tar or rubberized coating as they can trap moisture which can cause rusting
-the next day I was able to reassemble the suspension as the paint was hard enough
-allow the paint to cure for a couple weeks and try to keep it responsibly clean
-once that paint has cured, as an added step I have applied a rust protective coating
-rust protective coatings can be either an oil or wax spray which helps repel water and moisture
-spray the coating inside the frame if possible and on the outside
-cardboard, plastic, or a tarp can be used to prevent any oil drips on your driveway
-do not apply an excessive amount where it can run off the frame
-after dust sticks to the coating, additional layers can be applied
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author. - Авто та транспорт
Ah is so good to find good videos like this one, without good or bad music distracting you and really well explained. Thank you!
Thank you for the feedback :)
I agree Jan, so many make great videos but can't hear what they say because of terrible loud music. It's hard to inform ppl when they can't hear you.
Amen , clear voice and no sticking music
Or you can just do what I do, let your engine leak from every sealing surface so when you drive the entire underside of you vehicle is covered with oil. This pro tip keeps my 99 ram looking mint
I do that with my 94 cobra. It makes dirt stick a little more but sure does a good job of keeping everything lubed and oiled
un poco loko ,😂😭
CS that’s awesome, best thing about that is that you always have fresh oil in the car
blake102989 hahahaha that’s awesome
Ha! I accidentally did that to my antique plated Golf diesel and it is quite coated now, the entire underside is black and gooey, and I already put it away before the roads get salted, so it will last forever!!! Went through at least 2-3 gallons before I got it all sealed back up, drove me nuts leaking down the driveway until I figured it out.
Very informative. Work described as you did it without music to disrupt me from gettin' my learn on. Lol. Thanks
Thank you so much for the feedback, much appreciated :)
I agree, nothing worse than music blasting while someone is trying to explain something.
@@4DIYers how would you tackle the internal frame? Rotting from inside out.
no animals no children no wife no crazy music or life story just informative instruction SOMEONE HAS BEEN LISTERNING
Always happy to help :)
Helpful indeed - thank you for letting us all in on this and learn from someone actually doing the work. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! Now I am enthusiastic about cleaning of my 1994 Ranger frame before taking it to a frame welder for some repairs and then to someone to install new shocks in the front. It won't be so embarrassing when I say I want new shocks if it looks like I have made an effort to preserve the frame.
Rust removal is the most satisfying car work you can do in my opinion. It's not _too_ difficult, if you can weld, but the finished product looks amazing. Excellent work!
I agree and thank you!
Hey quick question iv a older hilux I have a friend who's a welder,once I go through the chasis doing what this video shows and I find some bits that need welding what can I get away with like can I out extra supports in or reweld and struts how does this effect m.o.t in the future 🤔
Yes. Except for the inside of tube frames.
vid- "lightly hit the surface, enough to break up the scale"
me- lightly knocks hole into frame..
vid- "not hard enough to damage the frame"
me- welds hammer onto hole, calls it a day lol
That's just a weight reduction mod for extra fuel economy :P lol
@@4DIYers hahaha true story, its scary looking under there yikes!
@@j-man6001 Yep I know that feeling, I live in the rust belt so it's tough trying to find solid vehicles. I looked at a Honda Ridgeline a few months back, there was nothing left of the frame. Then a GMC Canyon, the frame was literally split in half with a vertical rust hole.
I’m literally dying laughing 😂
@@4DIYers wow! I'm glad I live in Georgia, I did just buy a z71 Tahoe yesterday with a small amount of surface rust on the frame, it was in Tennessee for a year then down to GA, i pressure washed the frame yesterday and i guess tonight i will coat it with a undercoating.
You missed your calling as a flight attendant. :)
Good video for someone looking to do basic frame maintenance vs full restoration.
Good job on the informative lesson! I will use this in my arsenal when I tackle my frame once i get help to lift it off.
Thank you :)
Thanks for posting- this was good. I use / have used ospho as a paint on rust converter. I used to commercially fish in AK....we used it on WW2 ships ...works well! So I would wire wheel rust....spray wash ......wipe with rag soaked in alc......brush on ospho......brush on rustoleum (?)...then use a spray grease....CRC (?)....again- this was all business, minimal silly distractions- thanks!
Great video. Informative and enjoyable to watch. Thanks for the inspiration 😊
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback and kind words :)
Perfect video. Just what I needed to restore my ‘67 Mustang. Thanks!
You're welcome!
I live in Iowa and have an old 1997 Montero sport. It's been a fantastic vehicle and has only 122k miles. The frame is getting quite rusty and I want to restore it as I honestly think I can get many many more years out of this great truck.
Thanks for explaining it well, now I can fix my frame
No problem, happy to help :)
Nice job! That should help it live awhile longer in our Canadian weather.
Thank you! The scary part is this isn't the worst I've seen in person.
I have to change my control arm bushing on a '04 dodge and saw how rusty she was and this by far gives a newbie like me inspiration to just clean up the frame this nice 😅
I have used FDC Rust Converter Ultra and it works wonders on rust. It turns any rusty area purple then black. Converts all rust to a primed paintable surface
I parged mine with block mortar. Works great!
Thank you. This was very informative.
Thank you :)
After several years of restoration work on a 30 year old car that had a lot of underbody rust, I've found that the hardest kind of rust to remove is pitted rust, because it's spotty and most removal methods either don't get it out, like wire or abrasive wheels because they can't get to the tiny pits, or cause other problems like taking off too much surrounding metal (sanding wheels) or potentially corroding the metal (muriatic acid unless you neutralize it quickly and thoroughly).
Blasting is considered to be the optimal way to get rid of it, but that requires special equipment that I and many people don't have. So the next best solution, admittedly imperfect, is using small grinding bits and burrs on a rotary tool or die grinder to just grind them out one at a time. This is painstaking and takes forever, plus it removes some good metal along with the rust, and it leaves a pitted surface that isn't visually appealing even when painted over. But there are ways of fixing that.
Does anyone know if pitted rust, the kind that's sort of glazed over and hardened, causes further rust even if treated with rust converter and painted over with impermeable paint? Or is it sort of self-encapsulating and if left undisturbed won't cause further rust if properly painted over, as 4DIYers did?
I use two coats of paint on Gemplers rust converter. It is much better than the spray-on type. I also use a needle scaler to remove loose rust and dirt followed by blowing it off with air. Paint does not last on exposed areas so I use Wal-Mart canned truck bed liner. Nothing lasts forever but it is pretty good. I also make sure the air is as dry as I can get it. I don't know how the waxy coatings work with abrasion so you could check other videos on tests. I have been doing this for years with very good results. Good luck!
Wire wheel. Full stop. You can go dremel-sized and get every little bit, or you can stick to the 4 inch angle grinder one and call it good enough. If you clean the surface after, the rust pits are truly not a problem, even if there's still a little surface rust.
The chemistry way: you can use phosphoric acid gel (usually called rust neutralizer or naval jelly) to truly convert the rust into iron phosphate, which is stable and doesn't oxidize (if I recall correctly, the rust ends up black).
Or, if the part isn't attached to a vehicle, you can submerge it in a chelating agent like metal rescue.
Thank you straight to the point!
Excellent video my man,much appreciated...
No problem, always happy to help and thank you!
This video helped me sooo much. Thank you!
Excellent to hear and thank you!
Great video thanks from London England 👍
Thank you!
Great job!
thank you for this fantastic illstrations
Wonderful video bro, Thank you
Thank you so much!
Good info and how to....you got a up and a new subscriber
Thank you for the kind words and support, greatly appreciated!
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls
Thank you!
Excellent presentation
Very helpful considering I just inherited a 08 sierra the suspension works great but is very rusty so i now know how to clean and restore it!!
Glad to help!
Wow, what a difference, looks so much better!
Thats a handy sanding tool you got there 👍
I used a spray nozzle inside a frame in the past, but i didnt think about the dirt/sand buildup inside it... good tip!
Thank you for the feedback, I really appreciate it :)
I use a long piece of all thread and small pieces of chain to put in drill and run inside of frame to beat down any heavy rust, mud etc. Then I use Eastwood internal spray with a 2 foot 260 spray nozzle. Used them for years. Save your nozzle and it can be used for all kinds of auto spraying.
Good job!
I basically did the same restore on my Toyota frame . For inside the tubing I used and air compressor with a wand to blow out scale inside of frame tubing . There are existing holes in the tubing where the debris was able to come out .Felt good to do this . Took my time and got an education real quick . Then I used a rust reformer with the red tube spray attachment to spray inside the tubing .After that I used a hi heat expanding foam and the tube spray attachment to shoot the foam inside the frame tubing until it started to poop out the frame holes the furthest from where I was injecting the foam . Wow , next day I took a look and the foam had expanded to fill the entire frame tubing until it was coming out of all the holes in the frame . Took four cans . That was a considerable time ago and has preformed very well . Just thought I would pass this on .
I like what you did until you mentioned the foam. If it was the building grade expanding foam used for insulating windows, doors..etc. it's not waterproof and cause as much problem as wet rust and mud.
@@chrisgraham2904 has to be closed cell foam
@@percyfaith11 Even 'closed cell' foam is water resistant, not waterproof.
Very informative step by step. Only question I have is what farm equipment pain did you use? All of the ones I’ve been looking up are top coats. I don’t think the added rust protection will stick to top coats unless I’m wrong? Thank
Great video and presentation.
Thank you!
Great video a lot of help
Very helpful video. What kind of products did you use for coating and finishing?
Awesome video mate, done exactly the same thing on my tj
GREAT VIDEO. I LIKE TO USE A 4 INCH ROLLER TO SPREAD THE PAINT AND USE A BRUSH TO GET INTO THE CORNERS THAT THE ROLLER CANT REACH. WORKS REALLY WELL WHEN PAINTING TRAILER FRAMES
Great tip, thank you for sharing! I was playing around with foam rollers in the fall, seems to leave a nice texture. I tried the cotton rollers but this paint is far too thick and sticky for them.
4DIYers
Also use 1/4 in nap or foam. Keep a hair dryer handy if you get air bubbles blow hot air in them and
the bubbles disappear.
Thanks for the great tips and video. What do you think about Galvanized Zinc-Aluminum spray? They are the anode and very runny when I try to spray them. But it can be used as primer too but not as nice as paint in terms of coverage.
Fantastic instructional video. Thanks.
Thank you!
@@4DIYers Good day.
Thanks again.
Nice job thanks!
I love your videos bro!
Good video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you :)
Good video, nice work!
Thank you so much!
Is there any chance I could hire you to do some rust removal and finishing on the underside of my 2021 Silverado 1500? It's not too bad, I just don't want it getting into the metal. I am disabled and need a good reliable person/business to help me with this project. Thank You for your consideration.
Good video enjoyed it. Thumbs up.
Thank you very much!
Rolling restoration like this is the way to go. Frame up resto can leave most people with an abandoned vehicle. Wiping the surface with a prep and etch acid will remove the need for a rust converter.
Excellent tip, thank you for sharing!
Jimmy Schmidt does the prep and etch acid remove eat the remaining rust left behind?
Rust converters are acid based.
Awesome video. I have a 2017 gmc and the factory protector was peeling off sonic scraped as much as I could of and and now its winter and its looking shitty. As soon as whether warms up I'm doing this! Been looking for a solid paint to paint with. Hows that paint holding up man ? What's name of it exactly ?
Thanks Very Useful video
Happy to help!
Nice work .
Thank you!
extremely useful
Thank you!
Great job, I just bought a 94 ford Ranger I live in the northeast us and the truck sat for ten years so I'll be doing this very soon It has a fiberglass bed and im going to see how hard it would it be to lift the bed to get the top side of the frame ,And maybe try to get the truck up on four ramp stands to have some room to clean the frame up ... Great video just subscribed
Congrats on the purchase! I do have a video for removing those rusty bed bolts if you need any tips. Thank you for the support :)
Thank you!
I use the POR-15 Rust prevention paint now. It’s pricey but does the job. Just make sure it doesn’t touch any part of your skin or fingers. It will take up to 3 weeks to get off. For the front suspension, I removed every part and wire brushed it. Then painted all the parts. Now I don’t want to deal with the same hustle on the rear side. But I am gonna have to.
Great videi
Thank you!
Bing bong..... please remain seated until the light goes off.
Today we'll be travelling at 40,000 feet, your Captains name is Liam Neeson.
Shortly the attendant will be bringing round a selection of drinks and snacks at affordable prices, there is also a selection of alcoholic beverages to choose from.
We will be due to land at 0456 hrs, we hope you enjoy your flight and have a good trip. Bing bong.
Now THAT'S FUNNY~! :D
Bing bong
Matt Mattius hahahaha that’s awesome
What brand of paint do you recommend?
Lovely video sir. Totally enjoyed it!
Thank you!
You should work at an amusement park with that voice. Sounds like you would be the person that talk's before a rollercoaster ride. Great Video!!!
Can you use rustoleum after sanding down a rusty part of the body
What are you using under your jack stands?
Which rust converter and oil spray rust preventative were you using? Thanks.
Looks like Rust converter by RustCheck.
With box framing try blowing out with compressed air then filling with used engine oil
Excellent tip, thank you for sharing!
Atf works good
I'll be using fluid film with a long hose that you can stick inside the frame and it sprays in every direction
dazmac15 I do oil my cars and trucks I mix chain bar ,cooking oil cheapest I can find ,no detergent motor oil and some kerosene or diesel,fuel .,put on a N95 half mask eye protection and put it into syphon feed paint gun and a pump up garden sprayer . Spray everything inside frame ,door s tail gate rockers by drilling 1/2 inch holes and putting in black plastic plugs after spraying and do it annually
thanks
done right nice jobs
Thank you!
Thank you. For the last step, was that some sort of clear coat that you sprayed after the paint that you applied with the brush dried?
No problem! The last step was applying an oil spray to help protect the surface and prevent future rust.
Squirt old trans fluid inside the frame it will creep up the walls inside the frame.
Never mind, you answered that question.
That a good idea
Thank you :)
Helpful video. Good job brother. What kind of oil should i spray underneath my highlander?
Thank you! I prefer to stay away from anything like an engine or transmission oil. I have used linseed oil with excellent results, but the price has greatly increased. I did do a full professional type oil spray video ua-cam.com/video/WN_n4gpCorM/v-deo.html You have three choices depending on the brands available... Oil, wax, or wax/oil hybrid which I used. Oil is great for something older which already has some rust form and wax is great for something which is new or very clean with minimal rust.
Just got a 1996 and the fram has surface rust on it and I am working on it didnt know about the was sealer thanks
No problem, happy to help!
I enjoyed our video. I noticed you taped over the nuts and bolts when you sprayed the preservative. If that spray covered the nuts and bolts will they lock them in place and prevent removal later? In otherwords, can I just spray over the entire area to prevent rust? Thanks.
In the desert, however, dust and light dirt will stick to that oily spray and create a hellish coating of crud
good vid
Thank you :)
Im sorry what were the brands of the products you used?
at 8:11 what is that tether attaching the frame to the body? I have it on my truck and was wondering
Body ground strap.
what do you use to treat the rust on this inside of the hollow component ?
Use fluid film. Have to reapply every year. Search youtube and you'll see plenty of good videos. It's non-toxic and they spell special tips to get inside with the spray can of fluid film.
Is that frame area you are sanding solid or hollow? Thinking it's hollow. How do you know when the rust is too far gone?
Like compared to the frame when it was new how much weaker is that frame after you removed that scale and finished it?
There are lots of nooks and crannies, like bolts and other attachments and things like you removed. Seems like you can sand off the flat area but the little tights areas and bolts?
It's impossible to get all the rust unless your restoring and pulling the body off of the frame. The "Rust Restorer" helps a lot in the nooks and crannies.
How would you recommend doing this without a air compressor system and only a couple impact drills? Can this be done without an air compressor?
All kinds and sizes of wire brushes available for impact or electric drills. The Rust Converter solution needs some rust to convert, so you just want to remove what is loose, flaking or scaled. A Shop-Vac with a blowing exhaust works to blow dust away or you can even go at it with a leaf blower.
Great video! It’s my belief that If you’re not removing ALL the rust, it will come back. Sand, sand, sand..
If you use a fan you can blow the rust dust away from you as well
Great tip, thank you for sharing!
Nice I'm about to separate the entire frame off my 58 buick and sand blast it then I'll use a paint roller.
Sounds like an epic project! You can spray this type of paint, but it needs to be thinned out.
If you are going to do all that work, find a good marine epoxy paint and spray it on, don't use a roller.
If your going to have an entire frame exposed, then do it the professional restorer's way with the 3-step POR-15 system.
I'm gonna dip my car in acid @metalworks
My back axle and wishbones were like this. I love knocking the rust off with a hammer but couldn't use a grinder or high speed D.A on the back axle because of where the fuel tank is so used sand paper and a Dremel with a wirewheel to get into the pitting. Ive used zinc primer and 2 coats of matt black on them. Ive logged down the dates ive painted them to see how long they last for before going rusty again.
I was a professional painter for years, you prepped this great, are you a prepper? ; - )
So the farm implements paint won’t trap in moisture and it’ll allow the oil treatment to soak into the frame?
Won't trap moisture like rubber and it also has rust inhibiting qualities. The oil provides a layer so if the paint does chip, the oil will self seal the surface.
great vid. short and to the point. basically the same method I used and I'll be danged if that isn't near the same Ford Ranger front end parts and you just showed me how to put the camber bolts back in correctly.
I used spray paint and it sat over the winter unused and looks like I have some rust creeping through so perhaps that is better paint. The brush is definitely more economical. than spray cans.
I used naval jelly on one side and Ospho on the other. I'll report back which lasted longer in another year or so.
I'd love to hear more about what was used as an "oil spray coating" because that looked like it did a great job and I can tell my spay paint job won't last without some film. Was it just used motor oil thinned with gas in a spray bottle ?
Thank you for the feedback :) Some people have used engine oil, it's not something I've ever done. The stuff I use is specially for oil spraying vehicles which was purchased from a local auto parts supplier.
Ospho leaves white residue you have to remove before painting or the paint won't stay.
You going to reply its been a year?
Following
pool cleaning acid works well once it desolves rust u wash it off then u add a rust converter primer and ur good for paint
Great tip, thank you for sharing!
What about the Rust-Oleum oil based paint is that any good
I've used the "Farm Equipment" paint and the "oil based Tremclad, Rust-oleum" and found very little difference between them. One coat of either isn't enough.
How would it cost to remove rust
I used a combination of this technique on the chassis, and de-rusting in a citric acid bath on parts that could be removed.
The hardest part for me was finding a suitable paint. Rubberised coatings were out because of the reasons you mentioned. I didn't want oil or wax spray because it's messy and has to be reapplied regularly. Eventually I settled on paint called under-chassis enamel. It goes on thick and dries hard, so it is resistant to chipping off.
u could use the AutoZone rustoleom gel spray bottle that works really good just wear rubber gloves or u will burn . but good cause no dust , and u don't over scratch the metal😉
Great tip, thank you for sharing. however I'd still rather clean the scale off so any rust remover can bit into the surface and not be blocked by scaling rust.
I’m assuming this is just for certain areas that are rusted and not for the whole frame? I’m sure that if you took the frame out then you could do it. But in your case, you just redid and painted the rusted spots?
You can do the whole frame as long as you have access to everything. The fender wells were the worst spots on this truck and I didn't want to make the video excessively long.
After cleaning and protecting the undercarriage of your truck, how long will it protect your truck from rust? Thank you in advance.:)
An oil spray should be applied every year. Depending on your quality of products and how well the frame was cleaned, it can last for many years.
Would you be willing to do this job for my 2006 Tahoe. It’s lifted with about a level 2-3 (out of 10) amount of rust. Just had its 1st renter in Michigan. I’ll drive or have it delivered to you if possible. Whatever is necessary.
When I bought my 2009 4Runner, it came with an undercoating. But its thick. I don't know what it is. Its hard to get it off too. I would need to chip away at it to get it all off. Now, the question is, should I remove it and recoat it to prevent rust or should I not touch it? There are parts that are rusty and I do want to spray it, but I'm not sure what to do with the parts that are coated with this thick stuff
I would recommend removing it. I worked on a Toyota Tacoma, had a thick coating that needed to be removed by a scraper. It was applied by the dealer under their frame program, it ended up hiding the holes and the frame did require a patch.
@@4DIYers hmmm. Ok.
A project I'll have to do after winter though. Not possible in these weather conditions
I've been binge watching all the videos that have to do with this and I have to say that yours if very precise, to the point and instructive. Awesome content and good background information. How is it holding up so far? My method was with the media blasting, like you said very messy and a major headache without proper set up. After getting it to bare metal I used a rust primer and then hit it with a roll bar and chassis paint can. Today I pressure cleaned underneath the bed since it's off the truck. I think it's down to primer. I'm thinking of using the same primer, there's really no rust on it. What should I use underneath as a top coat? Been thinking about the rubberized under coating but as you metioned that can trap water. Maybe I can use the product you used here but I don't know how much it would be, your thoughts...
So far it still looks excellent and that is after driving it down gravel roads and threw the winter. Media blasting is definitely be the best method. A 2k primer would be an excellent option. As for the top coat, I used farm implement paint which can be purchased in a flat, low gloss, or high gloss finish. Mine is directly from John Deere and I honestly love the stuff. Bit more expensive, spraying it from a gun can be tricky, but it's a tough paint. I've used it on trailers in the past, mower decks, my Tacoma's differential, and it's all held up excellently. The current trailer we have was redone probably 10yrs ago, it's worn with a little rust bleeding through but still great. We even used the trailer for old shingles which isn't smooth by any means on the paint.
@@4DIYers Nice, how much did you need for the frame and is the shelf life of it any good. I know some paints are hard to use after storing because they either dry up too quick or the bucket doesn't close right after initial use.
I bought a small can, I believe it was a pint. It'll separate if it sits on a shelf for a long time, I've had a can for a few years. It's thick paint so it can be tough to mix, but I've never had a can go bad. John Deere does have a thinners too.
4DIYers Thanks, I’ll look into it when I do my next truck.
Isn't a frame like a chain? It's only as strong as its weakest link. Which means you have to make sure to completely de rust the entire frame. Any spots missed especially hard to reach on the inside portions of the frame mean they'll be the spots to rust through eventually...?
Yes, but you want to push "eventually" out as far as possible.