Or you can just do what I do, let your engine leak from every sealing surface so when you drive the entire underside of you vehicle is covered with oil. This pro tip keeps my 99 ram looking mint
Ha! I accidentally did that to my antique plated Golf diesel and it is quite coated now, the entire underside is black and gooey, and I already put it away before the roads get salted, so it will last forever!!! Went through at least 2-3 gallons before I got it all sealed back up, drove me nuts leaking down the driveway until I figured it out.
Rust removal is the most satisfying car work you can do in my opinion. It's not _too_ difficult, if you can weld, but the finished product looks amazing. Excellent work!
Hey quick question iv a older hilux I have a friend who's a welder,once I go through the chasis doing what this video shows and I find some bits that need welding what can I get away with like can I out extra supports in or reweld and struts how does this effect m.o.t in the future 🤔
I had an older 1992 Toyota pickup and I sanded it with a wire dremol like tool and I just put rustoleum black.... Rustoleum is VERY underrated. It stayed nice and black and "SOLID" too as of right now in 2024 (the year I am making this comment) ... So I mean it is lasting long !!!!
After several years of restoration work on a 30 year old car that had a lot of underbody rust, I've found that the hardest kind of rust to remove is pitted rust, because it's spotty and most removal methods either don't get it out, like wire or abrasive wheels because they can't get to the tiny pits, or cause other problems like taking off too much surrounding metal (sanding wheels) or potentially corroding the metal (muriatic acid unless you neutralize it quickly and thoroughly). Blasting is considered to be the optimal way to get rid of it, but that requires special equipment that I and many people don't have. So the next best solution, admittedly imperfect, is using small grinding bits and burrs on a rotary tool or die grinder to just grind them out one at a time. This is painstaking and takes forever, plus it removes some good metal along with the rust, and it leaves a pitted surface that isn't visually appealing even when painted over. But there are ways of fixing that. Does anyone know if pitted rust, the kind that's sort of glazed over and hardened, causes further rust even if treated with rust converter and painted over with impermeable paint? Or is it sort of self-encapsulating and if left undisturbed won't cause further rust if properly painted over, as 4DIYers did?
I use two coats of paint on Gemplers rust converter. It is much better than the spray-on type. I also use a needle scaler to remove loose rust and dirt followed by blowing it off with air. Paint does not last on exposed areas so I use Wal-Mart canned truck bed liner. Nothing lasts forever but it is pretty good. I also make sure the air is as dry as I can get it. I don't know how the waxy coatings work with abrasion so you could check other videos on tests. I have been doing this for years with very good results. Good luck!
Wire wheel. Full stop. You can go dremel-sized and get every little bit, or you can stick to the 4 inch angle grinder one and call it good enough. If you clean the surface after, the rust pits are truly not a problem, even if there's still a little surface rust. The chemistry way: you can use phosphoric acid gel (usually called rust neutralizer or naval jelly) to truly convert the rust into iron phosphate, which is stable and doesn't oxidize (if I recall correctly, the rust ends up black). Or, if the part isn't attached to a vehicle, you can submerge it in a chelating agent like metal rescue.
vid- "lightly hit the surface, enough to break up the scale" me- lightly knocks hole into frame.. vid- "not hard enough to damage the frame" me- welds hammer onto hole, calls it a day lol
@@j-man6001 Yep I know that feeling, I live in the rust belt so it's tough trying to find solid vehicles. I looked at a Honda Ridgeline a few months back, there was nothing left of the frame. Then a GMC Canyon, the frame was literally split in half with a vertical rust hole.
@@4DIYers wow! I'm glad I live in Georgia, I did just buy a z71 Tahoe yesterday with a small amount of surface rust on the frame, it was in Tennessee for a year then down to GA, i pressure washed the frame yesterday and i guess tonight i will coat it with a undercoating.
I live in Iowa and have an old 1997 Montero sport. It's been a fantastic vehicle and has only 122k miles. The frame is getting quite rusty and I want to restore it as I honestly think I can get many many more years out of this great truck.
Thank you! Now I am enthusiastic about cleaning of my 1994 Ranger frame before taking it to a frame welder for some repairs and then to someone to install new shocks in the front. It won't be so embarrassing when I say I want new shocks if it looks like I have made an effort to preserve the frame.
A repair garage near me offered to use the old oil after servicing your car. They would spray it on your chassis and charge about £8. I couldn't believe it, as the old oil would rot any rubber work under the car, and the mess of old oil dripping all over the road wasn't good. It was surprising how many people had it done.
Rolling restoration like this is the way to go. Frame up resto can leave most people with an abandoned vehicle. Wiping the surface with a prep and etch acid will remove the need for a rust converter.
I basically did the same restore on my Toyota frame . For inside the tubing I used and air compressor with a wand to blow out scale inside of frame tubing . There are existing holes in the tubing where the debris was able to come out .Felt good to do this . Took my time and got an education real quick . Then I used a rust reformer with the red tube spray attachment to spray inside the tubing .After that I used a hi heat expanding foam and the tube spray attachment to shoot the foam inside the frame tubing until it started to poop out the frame holes the furthest from where I was injecting the foam . Wow , next day I took a look and the foam had expanded to fill the entire frame tubing until it was coming out of all the holes in the frame . Took four cans . That was a considerable time ago and has preformed very well . Just thought I would pass this on .
I like what you did until you mentioned the foam. If it was the building grade expanding foam used for insulating windows, doors..etc. it's not waterproof and cause as much problem as wet rust and mud.
I have used FDC Rust Converter Ultra and it works wonders on rust. It turns any rusty area purple then black. Converts all rust to a primed paintable surface
GREAT VIDEO. I LIKE TO USE A 4 INCH ROLLER TO SPREAD THE PAINT AND USE A BRUSH TO GET INTO THE CORNERS THAT THE ROLLER CANT REACH. WORKS REALLY WELL WHEN PAINTING TRAILER FRAMES
Great tip, thank you for sharing! I was playing around with foam rollers in the fall, seems to leave a nice texture. I tried the cotton rollers but this paint is far too thick and sticky for them.
I have to change my control arm bushing on a '04 dodge and saw how rusty she was and this by far gives a newbie like me inspiration to just clean up the frame this nice 😅
dazmac15 I do oil my cars and trucks I mix chain bar ,cooking oil cheapest I can find ,no detergent motor oil and some kerosene or diesel,fuel .,put on a N95 half mask eye protection and put it into syphon feed paint gun and a pump up garden sprayer . Spray everything inside frame ,door s tail gate rockers by drilling 1/2 inch holes and putting in black plastic plugs after spraying and do it annually
I use the POR-15 Rust prevention paint now. It’s pricey but does the job. Just make sure it doesn’t touch any part of your skin or fingers. It will take up to 3 weeks to get off. For the front suspension, I removed every part and wire brushed it. Then painted all the parts. Now I don’t want to deal with the same hustle on the rear side. But I am gonna have to.
Thanks for posting- this was good. I use / have used ospho as a paint on rust converter. I used to commercially fish in AK....we used it on WW2 ships ...works well! So I would wire wheel rust....spray wash ......wipe with rag soaked in alc......brush on ospho......brush on rustoleum (?)...then use a spray grease....CRC (?)....again- this was all business, minimal silly distractions- thanks!
Bing bong..... please remain seated until the light goes off. Today we'll be travelling at 40,000 feet, your Captains name is Liam Neeson. Shortly the attendant will be bringing round a selection of drinks and snacks at affordable prices, there is also a selection of alcoholic beverages to choose from. We will be due to land at 0456 hrs, we hope you enjoy your flight and have a good trip. Bing bong.
My back axle and wishbones were like this. I love knocking the rust off with a hammer but couldn't use a grinder or high speed D.A on the back axle because of where the fuel tank is so used sand paper and a Dremel with a wirewheel to get into the pitting. Ive used zinc primer and 2 coats of matt black on them. Ive logged down the dates ive painted them to see how long they last for before going rusty again.
Isn't a frame like a chain? It's only as strong as its weakest link. Which means you have to make sure to completely de rust the entire frame. Any spots missed especially hard to reach on the inside portions of the frame mean they'll be the spots to rust through eventually...?
Great job, I just bought a 94 ford Ranger I live in the northeast us and the truck sat for ten years so I'll be doing this very soon It has a fiberglass bed and im going to see how hard it would it be to lift the bed to get the top side of the frame ,And maybe try to get the truck up on four ramp stands to have some room to clean the frame up ... Great video just subscribed
All kinds and sizes of wire brushes available for impact or electric drills. The Rust Converter solution needs some rust to convert, so you just want to remove what is loose, flaking or scaled. A Shop-Vac with a blowing exhaust works to blow dust away or you can even go at it with a leaf blower.
I enjoyed our video. I noticed you taped over the nuts and bolts when you sprayed the preservative. If that spray covered the nuts and bolts will they lock them in place and prevent removal later? In otherwords, can I just spray over the entire area to prevent rust? Thanks.
Wow, what a difference, looks so much better! Thats a handy sanding tool you got there 👍 I used a spray nozzle inside a frame in the past, but i didnt think about the dirt/sand buildup inside it... good tip!
I use a long piece of all thread and small pieces of chain to put in drill and run inside of frame to beat down any heavy rust, mud etc. Then I use Eastwood internal spray with a 2 foot 260 spray nozzle. Used them for years. Save your nozzle and it can be used for all kinds of auto spraying.
Thanks for the great tips and video. What do you think about Galvanized Zinc-Aluminum spray? They are the anode and very runny when I try to spray them. But it can be used as primer too but not as nice as paint in terms of coverage.
Is there any chance I could hire you to do some rust removal and finishing on the underside of my 2021 Silverado 1500? It's not too bad, I just don't want it getting into the metal. I am disabled and need a good reliable person/business to help me with this project. Thank You for your consideration.
Awesome video. I have a 2017 gmc and the factory protector was peeling off sonic scraped as much as I could of and and now its winter and its looking shitty. As soon as whether warms up I'm doing this! Been looking for a solid paint to paint with. Hows that paint holding up man ? What's name of it exactly ?
I used a combination of this technique on the chassis, and de-rusting in a citric acid bath on parts that could be removed. The hardest part for me was finding a suitable paint. Rubberised coatings were out because of the reasons you mentioned. I didn't want oil or wax spray because it's messy and has to be reapplied regularly. Eventually I settled on paint called under-chassis enamel. It goes on thick and dries hard, so it is resistant to chipping off.
Very informative step by step. Only question I have is what farm equipment pain did you use? All of the ones I’ve been looking up are top coats. I don’t think the added rust protection will stick to top coats unless I’m wrong? Thank
Everyone should paint their undercarriage every 5 years. It doesnt need to look pretty cause no one sees it, but it will add years to the structure of your vehicle. Just did my truck. Took five cans of paint and 3 hours. My frame looks fantastic and it only cost me $25. Worth it.
No tar or Rubberized coating due to trapped moisture? How about several coats of farm equipment paint and then a rubberized coat? I like the idea of rubberized protection but definitely want to avoid moisture.
Paint will flake off or peal when moisture is trapped underneath. The frame is painted from factory. The coating you want to avoid is anything rubberized or is an asphalt.
IN CASE SOMEONE DOESN'T KNOW: It is known for automotive manufacturers to intentionally use a formula of metal for frames that will begin to deteriorate within 10 years to ensure a need for people to have to continue to buy more or newer vehicles in their lifetime. It's referred to as "Planned Obsolescence". Smartphone companies use a similar technique, slowing down smartphones after a few years to ensure most people will buy more phones in their lifetime. It's all a set-up and the "regulators" are very likely paid off to not 'regulate' these types of business techniques which are well known within the business industry. LOOK UP: " Planned Obsolescence " (also referred to as "built in obsolescence" and "premature obsolescence") if you doubt the validity or prefer disbelief.
multiblade04 but it’s also depends on where you live like I’m in northern Ontario so winter salt is terrible and vehicles rust out fast some are stored for the winter and the cost for clean parts that are for older vehicles are through the roof
Yeah... but how do you remove the rust from INSIDE the frame, where it got in through the holes? Sure, the outside of the frame looks nice and brand new, but the rust is eating the inside and will eventually bust through from the back.
A power washer with a wide nozzle will help wherever you can fit it in to flush what you can. Its usually a build up of rust, sand, salt, leaves and anything else that gets flung into the frame holes. After it's dried, all you can do is flood the interior with almost any type of lubricant or wax. After I've done everything I can to restore all the exterior frame surfaces, then it's time to take it to a good rust proofing service like "Krown". I have mine professionally treated every three years for about $150.00
When I bought my 2009 4Runner, it came with an undercoating. But its thick. I don't know what it is. Its hard to get it off too. I would need to chip away at it to get it all off. Now, the question is, should I remove it and recoat it to prevent rust or should I not touch it? There are parts that are rusty and I do want to spray it, but I'm not sure what to do with the parts that are coated with this thick stuff
I would recommend removing it. I worked on a Toyota Tacoma, had a thick coating that needed to be removed by a scraper. It was applied by the dealer under their frame program, it ended up hiding the holes and the frame did require a patch.
Thank you! I prefer to stay away from anything like an engine or transmission oil. I have used linseed oil with excellent results, but the price has greatly increased. I did do a full professional type oil spray video ua-cam.com/video/WN_n4gpCorM/v-deo.html You have three choices depending on the brands available... Oil, wax, or wax/oil hybrid which I used. Oil is great for something older which already has some rust form and wax is great for something which is new or very clean with minimal rust.
Won't trap moisture like rubber and it also has rust inhibiting qualities. The oil provides a layer so if the paint does chip, the oil will self seal the surface.
I have a older model pickup truck,. It has total frame rust , the body has rust on parts of the fenders, and the cab ,. It had tiny pin holes from rust ,. I'd it possible to save this pickup, in the future ? Just wondering, 👍 thanks
It's a tough question to answer as you never know how bad a vehicle can be until you start cutting into it. This will depend on how much time and money you'll want to invest too. Front fenders and doors are replaceable, either used or new. When you start getting into cutting out panels and welding in new replacements, that's where it can get tricky, especially if you don't already have welding equipment. I have a video for a cab corner replacement, you can check it out to get a rough idea what's involved. If it has sedimental value, then it'd be worth slowly doing the work. If not, when you start replacing parts, might be cheaper finding something cleaner.
@@4DIYers oh it has. I was surprised by the phone call I received in 2003 it would be given to me. It's a 78 F 350 extended wheel base 1 ton. It only has around 80000 miles , parked in a barn with a hole in the roof and sat from 1988 until 2003 , I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon, because it was given to me by my father. F350 , 78. 4:10 gears limited slip. 400 V8. It was a beast with the original motor that motor was junk in 1986 ? I think, or 1984 Anyway. It got a police car 400 out of a 76 police 4 door Grand Torino. I really never did completely go over it with fine tooth comb. I can't and don't want to get rid of it ,. 1978 or 1979 , was the last years they made the real iron trucks. Now days , well this pickup has a leaf springs that are about a foot tall thick , if you know what I am talking about. Heavy duty truck Camper Special. Gas mileage wasn't great so it got parked. I just hope it is still in good shape. , Thanks. In Oregon. The back sliding window still the same one , but the gaskets holding it in are junk. Moss growing on the inside of the window frame. Now days trucks ?? I seen a F 450 crew cab dually pulling a car dolly and a small compact car and the rear bumper was almost dragging the ground. I looked at one weeks later and realized how bad they are. A 1 - ton frame , leaf springs are instead of the thick heavy leaf springs, they are like 150 heavy half ton they are about worthless. I seen a new 4×4 in 1986 , I got was sitting in it very uncomfortable moving around for sitting so long, and that pickup truck bounced all over the place. My 78 ?? 😄😂. You can't bounce that around. Good luck. But , anyway thanks again
Is that frame area you are sanding solid or hollow? Thinking it's hollow. How do you know when the rust is too far gone? Like compared to the frame when it was new how much weaker is that frame after you removed that scale and finished it? There are lots of nooks and crannies, like bolts and other attachments and things like you removed. Seems like you can sand off the flat area but the little tights areas and bolts?
It's impossible to get all the rust unless your restoring and pulling the body off of the frame. The "Rust Restorer" helps a lot in the nooks and crannies.
great vid. short and to the point. basically the same method I used and I'll be danged if that isn't near the same Ford Ranger front end parts and you just showed me how to put the camber bolts back in correctly. I used spray paint and it sat over the winter unused and looks like I have some rust creeping through so perhaps that is better paint. The brush is definitely more economical. than spray cans. I used naval jelly on one side and Ospho on the other. I'll report back which lasted longer in another year or so. I'd love to hear more about what was used as an "oil spray coating" because that looked like it did a great job and I can tell my spay paint job won't last without some film. Was it just used motor oil thinned with gas in a spray bottle ?
Thank you for the feedback :) Some people have used engine oil, it's not something I've ever done. The stuff I use is specially for oil spraying vehicles which was purchased from a local auto parts supplier.
u could use the AutoZone rustoleom gel spray bottle that works really good just wear rubber gloves or u will burn . but good cause no dust , and u don't over scratch the metal😉
Great tip, thank you for sharing. however I'd still rather clean the scale off so any rust remover can bit into the surface and not be blocked by scaling rust.
I’ve seen so many trucks from the north come in wanting there trucks done. They always come in looking good not bad. Then you get in and really look at them rubber coats. And most the time frame rot had already kicked in. Rubber and thick coats are a mess. They look good but underneath rot will form and fast. And it’s a mess to remove them coats. Never use rubber like coats. Stick to paint
Yep, that rubber/asphalt coating is dangerous. Not sure if you've seen my Tacoma video, but the dealer applied a thick built up coating to temporary "solve" their frame rot issues. All it did was make a clean looking skin on the outside and what a mess it was to remove.
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YK8Mq6HWOwI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](/img/tr.png)
Or you can just do what I do, let your engine leak from every sealing surface so when you drive the entire underside of you vehicle is covered with oil. This pro tip keeps my 99 ram looking mint
I do that with my 94 cobra. It makes dirt stick a little more but sure does a good job of keeping everything lubed and oiled
un poco loko ,😂😭
CS that’s awesome, best thing about that is that you always have fresh oil in the car
blake102989 hahahaha that’s awesome
Ha! I accidentally did that to my antique plated Golf diesel and it is quite coated now, the entire underside is black and gooey, and I already put it away before the roads get salted, so it will last forever!!! Went through at least 2-3 gallons before I got it all sealed back up, drove me nuts leaking down the driveway until I figured it out.
Ah is so good to find good videos like this one, without good or bad music distracting you and really well explained. Thank you!
Thank you for the feedback :)
I agree Jan, so many make great videos but can't hear what they say because of terrible loud music. It's hard to inform ppl when they can't hear you.
Amen , clear voice and no sticking music
no animals no children no wife no crazy music or life story just informative instruction SOMEONE HAS BEEN LISTERNING
Always happy to help :)
more people need to LISTERN
Very informative. Work described as you did it without music to disrupt me from gettin' my learn on. Lol. Thanks
Thank you so much for the feedback, much appreciated :)
I agree, nothing worse than music blasting while someone is trying to explain something.
@@4DIYers how would you tackle the internal frame? Rotting from inside out.
Rust removal is the most satisfying car work you can do in my opinion. It's not _too_ difficult, if you can weld, but the finished product looks amazing. Excellent work!
I agree and thank you!
Hey quick question iv a older hilux I have a friend who's a welder,once I go through the chasis doing what this video shows and I find some bits that need welding what can I get away with like can I out extra supports in or reweld and struts how does this effect m.o.t in the future 🤔
Yes. Except for the inside of tube frames.
You missed your calling as a flight attendant. :)
Just laughed out loud on my flight
I had an older 1992 Toyota pickup and I sanded it with a wire dremol like tool and I just put rustoleum black.... Rustoleum is VERY underrated. It stayed nice and black and "SOLID" too as of right now in 2024 (the year I am making this comment) ... So I mean it is lasting long !!!!
After several years of restoration work on a 30 year old car that had a lot of underbody rust, I've found that the hardest kind of rust to remove is pitted rust, because it's spotty and most removal methods either don't get it out, like wire or abrasive wheels because they can't get to the tiny pits, or cause other problems like taking off too much surrounding metal (sanding wheels) or potentially corroding the metal (muriatic acid unless you neutralize it quickly and thoroughly).
Blasting is considered to be the optimal way to get rid of it, but that requires special equipment that I and many people don't have. So the next best solution, admittedly imperfect, is using small grinding bits and burrs on a rotary tool or die grinder to just grind them out one at a time. This is painstaking and takes forever, plus it removes some good metal along with the rust, and it leaves a pitted surface that isn't visually appealing even when painted over. But there are ways of fixing that.
Does anyone know if pitted rust, the kind that's sort of glazed over and hardened, causes further rust even if treated with rust converter and painted over with impermeable paint? Or is it sort of self-encapsulating and if left undisturbed won't cause further rust if properly painted over, as 4DIYers did?
I use two coats of paint on Gemplers rust converter. It is much better than the spray-on type. I also use a needle scaler to remove loose rust and dirt followed by blowing it off with air. Paint does not last on exposed areas so I use Wal-Mart canned truck bed liner. Nothing lasts forever but it is pretty good. I also make sure the air is as dry as I can get it. I don't know how the waxy coatings work with abrasion so you could check other videos on tests. I have been doing this for years with very good results. Good luck!
Wire wheel. Full stop. You can go dremel-sized and get every little bit, or you can stick to the 4 inch angle grinder one and call it good enough. If you clean the surface after, the rust pits are truly not a problem, even if there's still a little surface rust.
The chemistry way: you can use phosphoric acid gel (usually called rust neutralizer or naval jelly) to truly convert the rust into iron phosphate, which is stable and doesn't oxidize (if I recall correctly, the rust ends up black).
Or, if the part isn't attached to a vehicle, you can submerge it in a chelating agent like metal rescue.
vid- "lightly hit the surface, enough to break up the scale"
me- lightly knocks hole into frame..
vid- "not hard enough to damage the frame"
me- welds hammer onto hole, calls it a day lol
That's just a weight reduction mod for extra fuel economy :P lol
@@4DIYers hahaha true story, its scary looking under there yikes!
@@j-man6001 Yep I know that feeling, I live in the rust belt so it's tough trying to find solid vehicles. I looked at a Honda Ridgeline a few months back, there was nothing left of the frame. Then a GMC Canyon, the frame was literally split in half with a vertical rust hole.
I’m literally dying laughing 😂
@@4DIYers wow! I'm glad I live in Georgia, I did just buy a z71 Tahoe yesterday with a small amount of surface rust on the frame, it was in Tennessee for a year then down to GA, i pressure washed the frame yesterday and i guess tonight i will coat it with a undercoating.
I live in Iowa and have an old 1997 Montero sport. It's been a fantastic vehicle and has only 122k miles. The frame is getting quite rusty and I want to restore it as I honestly think I can get many many more years out of this great truck.
Thank you! Now I am enthusiastic about cleaning of my 1994 Ranger frame before taking it to a frame welder for some repairs and then to someone to install new shocks in the front. It won't be so embarrassing when I say I want new shocks if it looks like I have made an effort to preserve the frame.
Lol, how'd that go?
Helpful indeed - thank you for letting us all in on this and learn from someone actually doing the work. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
A repair garage near me offered to use the old oil after servicing your car. They would spray it on your chassis and charge about £8. I couldn't believe it, as the old oil would rot any rubber work under the car, and the mess of old oil dripping all over the road wasn't good. It was surprising how many people had it done.
Rolling restoration like this is the way to go. Frame up resto can leave most people with an abandoned vehicle. Wiping the surface with a prep and etch acid will remove the need for a rust converter.
Excellent tip, thank you for sharing!
Jimmy Schmidt does the prep and etch acid remove eat the remaining rust left behind?
Rust converters are acid based.
Good video for someone looking to do basic frame maintenance vs full restoration.
Perfect video. Just what I needed to restore my ‘67 Mustang. Thanks!
You're welcome!
I basically did the same restore on my Toyota frame . For inside the tubing I used and air compressor with a wand to blow out scale inside of frame tubing . There are existing holes in the tubing where the debris was able to come out .Felt good to do this . Took my time and got an education real quick . Then I used a rust reformer with the red tube spray attachment to spray inside the tubing .After that I used a hi heat expanding foam and the tube spray attachment to shoot the foam inside the frame tubing until it started to poop out the frame holes the furthest from where I was injecting the foam . Wow , next day I took a look and the foam had expanded to fill the entire frame tubing until it was coming out of all the holes in the frame . Took four cans . That was a considerable time ago and has preformed very well . Just thought I would pass this on .
I like what you did until you mentioned the foam. If it was the building grade expanding foam used for insulating windows, doors..etc. it's not waterproof and cause as much problem as wet rust and mud.
@@chrisgraham2904 has to be closed cell foam
@@percyfaith11 Even 'closed cell' foam is water resistant, not waterproof.
I have used FDC Rust Converter Ultra and it works wonders on rust. It turns any rusty area purple then black. Converts all rust to a primed paintable surface
GREAT VIDEO. I LIKE TO USE A 4 INCH ROLLER TO SPREAD THE PAINT AND USE A BRUSH TO GET INTO THE CORNERS THAT THE ROLLER CANT REACH. WORKS REALLY WELL WHEN PAINTING TRAILER FRAMES
Great tip, thank you for sharing! I was playing around with foam rollers in the fall, seems to leave a nice texture. I tried the cotton rollers but this paint is far too thick and sticky for them.
4DIYers
Also use 1/4 in nap or foam. Keep a hair dryer handy if you get air bubbles blow hot air in them and
the bubbles disappear.
I have to change my control arm bushing on a '04 dodge and saw how rusty she was and this by far gives a newbie like me inspiration to just clean up the frame this nice 😅
Very helpful considering I just inherited a 08 sierra the suspension works great but is very rusty so i now know how to clean and restore it!!
Glad to help!
Nice job! That should help it live awhile longer in our Canadian weather.
Thank you! The scary part is this isn't the worst I've seen in person.
With box framing try blowing out with compressed air then filling with used engine oil
Excellent tip, thank you for sharing!
Atf works good
I'll be using fluid film with a long hose that you can stick inside the frame and it sprays in every direction
dazmac15 I do oil my cars and trucks I mix chain bar ,cooking oil cheapest I can find ,no detergent motor oil and some kerosene or diesel,fuel .,put on a N95 half mask eye protection and put it into syphon feed paint gun and a pump up garden sprayer . Spray everything inside frame ,door s tail gate rockers by drilling 1/2 inch holes and putting in black plastic plugs after spraying and do it annually
I use the POR-15 Rust prevention paint now. It’s pricey but does the job. Just make sure it doesn’t touch any part of your skin or fingers. It will take up to 3 weeks to get off. For the front suspension, I removed every part and wire brushed it. Then painted all the parts. Now I don’t want to deal with the same hustle on the rear side. But I am gonna have to.
Thanks for posting- this was good. I use / have used ospho as a paint on rust converter. I used to commercially fish in AK....we used it on WW2 ships ...works well! So I would wire wheel rust....spray wash ......wipe with rag soaked in alc......brush on ospho......brush on rustoleum (?)...then use a spray grease....CRC (?)....again- this was all business, minimal silly distractions- thanks!
Good job on the informative lesson! I will use this in my arsenal when I tackle my frame once i get help to lift it off.
Thank you :)
If you use a fan you can blow the rust dust away from you as well
Great tip, thank you for sharing!
Which rust converter and oil spray rust preventative were you using? Thanks.
Looks like Rust converter by RustCheck.
pool cleaning acid works well once it desolves rust u wash it off then u add a rust converter primer and ur good for paint
Great tip, thank you for sharing!
Squirt old trans fluid inside the frame it will creep up the walls inside the frame.
Thanks for explaining it well, now I can fix my frame
No problem, happy to help :)
Excellent video my man,much appreciated...
No problem, always happy to help and thank you!
You should work at an amusement park with that voice. Sounds like you would be the person that talk's before a rollercoaster ride. Great Video!!!
Great video thanks from London England 👍
Thank you!
This video helped me sooo much. Thank you!
Excellent to hear and thank you!
Bing bong..... please remain seated until the light goes off.
Today we'll be travelling at 40,000 feet, your Captains name is Liam Neeson.
Shortly the attendant will be bringing round a selection of drinks and snacks at affordable prices, there is also a selection of alcoholic beverages to choose from.
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Now THAT'S FUNNY~! :D
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Matt Mattius hahahaha that’s awesome
Excellent presentation
Thank you straight to the point!
My back axle and wishbones were like this. I love knocking the rust off with a hammer but couldn't use a grinder or high speed D.A on the back axle because of where the fuel tank is so used sand paper and a Dremel with a wirewheel to get into the pitting. Ive used zinc primer and 2 coats of matt black on them. Ive logged down the dates ive painted them to see how long they last for before going rusty again.
I parged mine with block mortar. Works great!
Great video and presentation.
Thank you!
Wonderful video bro, Thank you
Thank you so much!
Isn't a frame like a chain? It's only as strong as its weakest link. Which means you have to make sure to completely de rust the entire frame. Any spots missed especially hard to reach on the inside portions of the frame mean they'll be the spots to rust through eventually...?
Yes, but you want to push "eventually" out as far as possible.
Great job, I just bought a 94 ford Ranger I live in the northeast us and the truck sat for ten years so I'll be doing this very soon It has a fiberglass bed and im going to see how hard it would it be to lift the bed to get the top side of the frame ,And maybe try to get the truck up on four ramp stands to have some room to clean the frame up ... Great video just subscribed
Congrats on the purchase! I do have a video for removing those rusty bed bolts if you need any tips. Thank you for the support :)
Great video. Informative and enjoyable to watch. Thanks for the inspiration 😊
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback and kind words :)
thank you for this fantastic illstrations
How would you recommend doing this without a air compressor system and only a couple impact drills? Can this be done without an air compressor?
All kinds and sizes of wire brushes available for impact or electric drills. The Rust Converter solution needs some rust to convert, so you just want to remove what is loose, flaking or scaled. A Shop-Vac with a blowing exhaust works to blow dust away or you can even go at it with a leaf blower.
I enjoyed our video. I noticed you taped over the nuts and bolts when you sprayed the preservative. If that spray covered the nuts and bolts will they lock them in place and prevent removal later? In otherwords, can I just spray over the entire area to prevent rust? Thanks.
Wow, what a difference, looks so much better!
Thats a handy sanding tool you got there 👍
I used a spray nozzle inside a frame in the past, but i didnt think about the dirt/sand buildup inside it... good tip!
Thank you for the feedback, I really appreciate it :)
I use a long piece of all thread and small pieces of chain to put in drill and run inside of frame to beat down any heavy rust, mud etc. Then I use Eastwood internal spray with a 2 foot 260 spray nozzle. Used them for years. Save your nozzle and it can be used for all kinds of auto spraying.
Thanks Very Useful video
Happy to help!
Thanks for the great tips and video. What do you think about Galvanized Zinc-Aluminum spray? They are the anode and very runny when I try to spray them. But it can be used as primer too but not as nice as paint in terms of coverage.
Good video, nice work!
Thank you so much!
Is there any chance I could hire you to do some rust removal and finishing on the underside of my 2021 Silverado 1500? It's not too bad, I just don't want it getting into the metal. I am disabled and need a good reliable person/business to help me with this project. Thank You for your consideration.
Awesome video. I have a 2017 gmc and the factory protector was peeling off sonic scraped as much as I could of and and now its winter and its looking shitty. As soon as whether warms up I'm doing this! Been looking for a solid paint to paint with. Hows that paint holding up man ? What's name of it exactly ?
Thank you. This was very informative.
Thank you :)
Just got a 1996 and the fram has surface rust on it and I am working on it didnt know about the was sealer thanks
No problem, happy to help!
Fantastic instructional video. Thanks.
Thank you!
@@4DIYers Good day.
Thanks again.
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls
Thank you!
In the desert, however, dust and light dirt will stick to that oily spray and create a hellish coating of crud
Pretty good..i would have used a needle scaler to take off the first layer of rust.
Thank you for the feedback and tip!
I used a combination of this technique on the chassis, and de-rusting in a citric acid bath on parts that could be removed.
The hardest part for me was finding a suitable paint. Rubberised coatings were out because of the reasons you mentioned. I didn't want oil or wax spray because it's messy and has to be reapplied regularly. Eventually I settled on paint called under-chassis enamel. It goes on thick and dries hard, so it is resistant to chipping off.
Good info and how to....you got a up and a new subscriber
Thank you for the kind words and support, greatly appreciated!
Very informative step by step. Only question I have is what farm equipment pain did you use? All of the ones I’ve been looking up are top coats. I don’t think the added rust protection will stick to top coats unless I’m wrong? Thank
Great video! It’s my belief that If you’re not removing ALL the rust, it will come back. Sand, sand, sand..
Nice I'm about to separate the entire frame off my 58 buick and sand blast it then I'll use a paint roller.
Sounds like an epic project! You can spray this type of paint, but it needs to be thinned out.
If you are going to do all that work, find a good marine epoxy paint and spray it on, don't use a roller.
If your going to have an entire frame exposed, then do it the professional restorer's way with the 3-step POR-15 system.
I'm gonna dip my car in acid @metalworks
extremely useful
Thank you!
at 8:11 what is that tether attaching the frame to the body? I have it on my truck and was wondering
Body ground strap.
After cleaning and protecting the undercarriage of your truck, how long will it protect your truck from rust? Thank you in advance.:)
An oil spray should be applied every year. Depending on your quality of products and how well the frame was cleaned, it can last for many years.
Good video enjoyed it. Thumbs up.
Thank you very much!
I love your videos bro!
Everyone should paint their undercarriage every 5 years. It doesnt need to look pretty cause no one sees it, but it will add years to the structure of your vehicle. Just did my truck. Took five cans of paint and 3 hours. My frame looks fantastic and it only cost me $25. Worth it.
What brand of paint do you recommend?
No tar or Rubberized coating due to trapped moisture? How about several coats of farm equipment paint and then a rubberized coat? I like the idea of rubberized protection but definitely want to avoid moisture.
My recommendation would be applying an oil spray or wax rust inhibiting coating that's self healing.
Great video a lot of help
I heard painting traps in moisture and that you should do oil coatings instead
Paint will flake off or peal when moisture is trapped underneath. The frame is painted from factory. The coating you want to avoid is anything rubberized or is an asphalt.
IN CASE SOMEONE DOESN'T KNOW: It is known for automotive manufacturers to intentionally use a formula of metal for frames that will begin to deteriorate within 10 years to ensure a need for people to have to continue to buy more or newer vehicles in their lifetime. It's referred to as "Planned Obsolescence". Smartphone companies use a similar technique, slowing down smartphones after a few years to ensure most people will buy more phones in their lifetime. It's all a set-up and the "regulators" are very likely paid off to not 'regulate' these types of business techniques which are well known within the business industry. LOOK UP: " Planned Obsolescence " (also referred to as "built in obsolescence" and "premature obsolescence") if you doubt the validity or prefer disbelief.
One of my cars is a 20 year old Mercedes with not a spec of rust anywhere or under so don’t know what the heck ur saying
multiblade04 but it’s also depends on where you live like I’m in northern Ontario so winter salt is terrible and vehicles rust out fast some are stored for the winter and the cost for clean parts that are for older vehicles are through the roof
@@multiblade04 Anecdotal evidence is not representative of a typical experience.
Eastwood internal rust encap gets the inside of the frame
Great tip, thank you for sharing!
Yeah... but how do you remove the rust from INSIDE the frame, where it got in through the holes? Sure, the outside of the frame looks nice and brand new, but the rust is eating the inside and will eventually bust through from the back.
A power washer with a wide nozzle will help wherever you can fit it in to flush what you can. Its usually a build up of rust, sand, salt, leaves and anything else that gets flung into the frame holes. After it's dried, all you can do is flood the interior with almost any type of lubricant or wax. After I've done everything I can to restore all the exterior frame surfaces, then it's time to take it to a good rust proofing service like "Krown". I have mine professionally treated every three years for about $150.00
When I bought my 2009 4Runner, it came with an undercoating. But its thick. I don't know what it is. Its hard to get it off too. I would need to chip away at it to get it all off. Now, the question is, should I remove it and recoat it to prevent rust or should I not touch it? There are parts that are rusty and I do want to spray it, but I'm not sure what to do with the parts that are coated with this thick stuff
I would recommend removing it. I worked on a Toyota Tacoma, had a thick coating that needed to be removed by a scraper. It was applied by the dealer under their frame program, it ended up hiding the holes and the frame did require a patch.
@@4DIYers hmmm. Ok.
A project I'll have to do after winter though. Not possible in these weather conditions
Helpful video. Good job brother. What kind of oil should i spray underneath my highlander?
Thank you! I prefer to stay away from anything like an engine or transmission oil. I have used linseed oil with excellent results, but the price has greatly increased. I did do a full professional type oil spray video ua-cam.com/video/WN_n4gpCorM/v-deo.html You have three choices depending on the brands available... Oil, wax, or wax/oil hybrid which I used. Oil is great for something older which already has some rust form and wax is great for something which is new or very clean with minimal rust.
Thank you. For the last step, was that some sort of clear coat that you sprayed after the paint that you applied with the brush dried?
No problem! The last step was applying an oil spray to help protect the surface and prevent future rust.
Lovely video sir. Totally enjoyed it!
Thank you!
thanks
Good job!
I was a professional painter for years, you prepped this great, are you a prepper? ; - )
So the farm implements paint won’t trap in moisture and it’ll allow the oil treatment to soak into the frame?
Won't trap moisture like rubber and it also has rust inhibiting qualities. The oil provides a layer so if the paint does chip, the oil will self seal the surface.
Good video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you :)
Great job!
Very helpful video. What kind of products did you use for coating and finishing?
Nice work .
Thank you!
I have a older model pickup truck,. It has total frame rust , the body has rust on parts of the fenders, and the cab ,. It had tiny pin holes from rust ,. I'd it possible to save this pickup, in the future ? Just wondering, 👍 thanks
It's a tough question to answer as you never know how bad a vehicle can be until you start cutting into it. This will depend on how much time and money you'll want to invest too. Front fenders and doors are replaceable, either used or new. When you start getting into cutting out panels and welding in new replacements, that's where it can get tricky, especially if you don't already have welding equipment. I have a video for a cab corner replacement, you can check it out to get a rough idea what's involved. If it has sedimental value, then it'd be worth slowly doing the work. If not, when you start replacing parts, might be cheaper finding something cleaner.
@@4DIYers oh it has. I was surprised by the phone call I received in 2003 it would be given to me. It's a 78 F 350 extended wheel base 1 ton. It only has around 80000 miles , parked in a barn with a hole in the roof and sat from 1988 until 2003 , I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon, because it was given to me by my father. F350 , 78. 4:10 gears limited slip. 400 V8. It was a beast with the original motor that motor was junk in 1986 ? I think, or 1984 Anyway. It got a police car 400 out of a 76 police 4 door Grand Torino. I really never did completely go over it with fine tooth comb. I can't and don't want to get rid of it ,. 1978 or 1979 , was the last years they made the real iron trucks. Now days , well this pickup has a leaf springs that are about a foot tall thick , if you know what I am talking about. Heavy duty truck Camper Special. Gas mileage wasn't great so it got parked. I just hope it is still in good shape. , Thanks. In Oregon. The back sliding window still the same one , but the gaskets holding it in are junk. Moss growing on the inside of the window frame. Now days trucks ?? I seen a F 450 crew cab dually pulling a car dolly and a small compact car and the rear bumper was almost dragging the ground. I looked at one weeks later and realized how bad they are. A 1 - ton frame , leaf springs are instead of the thick heavy leaf springs, they are like 150 heavy half ton they are about worthless. I seen a new 4×4 in 1986 , I got was sitting in it very uncomfortable moving around for sitting so long, and that pickup truck bounced all over the place. My 78 ?? 😄😂. You can't bounce that around. Good luck. But , anyway thanks again
done right nice jobs
Thank you!
Is that frame area you are sanding solid or hollow? Thinking it's hollow. How do you know when the rust is too far gone?
Like compared to the frame when it was new how much weaker is that frame after you removed that scale and finished it?
There are lots of nooks and crannies, like bolts and other attachments and things like you removed. Seems like you can sand off the flat area but the little tights areas and bolts?
It's impossible to get all the rust unless your restoring and pulling the body off of the frame. The "Rust Restorer" helps a lot in the nooks and crannies.
Can you just paint over rust? (pOR15)??
Thank you!
Can you use rustoleum after sanding down a rusty part of the body
great vid. short and to the point. basically the same method I used and I'll be danged if that isn't near the same Ford Ranger front end parts and you just showed me how to put the camber bolts back in correctly.
I used spray paint and it sat over the winter unused and looks like I have some rust creeping through so perhaps that is better paint. The brush is definitely more economical. than spray cans.
I used naval jelly on one side and Ospho on the other. I'll report back which lasted longer in another year or so.
I'd love to hear more about what was used as an "oil spray coating" because that looked like it did a great job and I can tell my spay paint job won't last without some film. Was it just used motor oil thinned with gas in a spray bottle ?
Thank you for the feedback :) Some people have used engine oil, it's not something I've ever done. The stuff I use is specially for oil spraying vehicles which was purchased from a local auto parts supplier.
Ospho leaves white residue you have to remove before painting or the paint won't stay.
You going to reply its been a year?
Following
Nice job thanks!
u could use the AutoZone rustoleom gel spray bottle that works really good just wear rubber gloves or u will burn . but good cause no dust , and u don't over scratch the metal😉
Great tip, thank you for sharing. however I'd still rather clean the scale off so any rust remover can bit into the surface and not be blocked by scaling rust.
Awesome video mate, done exactly the same thing on my tj
I’ve seen so many trucks from the north come in wanting there trucks done. They always come in looking good not bad. Then you get in and really look at them rubber coats. And most the time frame rot had already kicked in. Rubber and thick coats are a mess. They look good but underneath rot will form and fast. And it’s a mess to remove them coats. Never use rubber like coats. Stick to paint
Yep, that rubber/asphalt coating is dangerous. Not sure if you've seen my Tacoma video, but the dealer applied a thick built up coating to temporary "solve" their frame rot issues. All it did was make a clean looking skin on the outside and what a mess it was to remove.