Barry, I wanted to let you know that you missed a somewhat vital step. When you pull that input shaft out, it is necessary to open it up and use washers to cancel out the hydraulic damping system that is built in. If you don't do this you will feel a small amount of play and may or may not get immediate response when you need it. Not a big deal, but that response is a big reason to go manual. Let me know if you want details on this.
I would be interested in info on installing the washers to cancel out the damping as well. Is there any update on this, or can someone PM the info to me?
Thanks for the how-to! I was looking for a manual steering rack and it is almost impossible... Found one in Germany... To expensive... I have exactly the same reason as you do: another part not leaking. These power rack are known fail often. I'm currently doing the longest job on a 951... Changing the oil pan gasket!
Gotcha - If that is where the leak is then it is very possible that one of those rubber washers is bad. As far as driveability with a de-powered rack I find it just like driving with a manual rack. If you've never driven a non-powered steering vehicle then you'd find it more difficult to turn the wheels if the vehicle is not moving. I like it because it gives me more feeling in the steering process. I'm going to use the car as a combination road/track car so it works well for me.
I will consider depowering my power rack. My thoughts based on your video: 1. I would measure the banjo bolt width and machine an aluminum tube with the same width to keep the banjo bolts but torqued against essentially an aluminum crush washer (short tube with round knife-edge on each end to deform and seal). 2. I would take out the hydraulic bits e.g. the washers used to create pressure on the shaft, but I would think its a good idea to fill up the rack with some heavy weight gear oil like a 75W-90 to keep the bushings and bearings riding smooth. This would mean the shaft seals should be in good condition though or else it may spring a leak, but the gear oil is significantly more viscous than PS fluid. I would grease the rack teeth as well but thats about as much as you can lubricate it, if i recall its just hidden by the shaft boot on the driver side right?. Thats about it, any and all openings sealed with crush washers and bolts, and rack filled with gear oil.
How long of a job is it to rebuild a rack? I'm not interested in depowering my rack. I just want to do a stock rebuild. Thanks for sharing your video and experience. 🙂
Thanks for your questions - responses below - hope they're helpful R1: My reasons for de-powering the rack are one less fluid and potential leak to deal with and I like the feel of manual steering - the original manual racks are getting very expensive. R2: Hard to answer this one without pinpointing the source of your leak. More often than not, leaks originate in the powersteering pump or around the compression fittings of the high-pressure hoses. Driver's side leak may be in the box...
Just thought I would share my experience running a power rack without power. I did this on another car years ago and discovered that over time the power rack developed more and more play...excessive play. It is my thought that power racks are not meant to run unassisted and the metals and designs involved are not up to the task of handling the loads when unpowered. Unpowered racks are IMHO signficantly stiffer than even a manual rack. There is a video on UA-cam of a broken depowered rack. Personally I would like to hear from a power steering rack industry expert on the risks of running a power rack depowered.
One way to stop a rack leak permanently! Thanks for sharing!
5:37 that’s what she said.... thanks for the great video mate! Helped a ton.
Garrett Pendergraft Haha! Thx for the laugh!
Barry, I wanted to let you know that you missed a somewhat vital step. When you pull that input shaft out, it is necessary to open it up and use washers to cancel out the hydraulic damping system that is built in. If you don't do this you will feel a small amount of play and may or may not get immediate response when you need it. Not a big deal, but that response is a big reason to go manual. Let me know if you want details on this.
Jarrett Lonchar could you send me more information? I'd like to do this on my S2 and I want to do it perfect!
I would be interested in info on installing the washers to cancel out the damping as well. Is there any update on this, or can someone PM the info to me?
Did either of you get an answer to this? I too want to de-power a 944 rack but don’t want the lack of response.
Thanks for the how-to! I was looking for a manual steering rack and it is almost impossible... Found one in Germany... To expensive... I have exactly the same reason as you do: another part not leaking. These power rack are known fail often. I'm currently doing the longest job on a 951... Changing the oil pan gasket!
Gotcha - If that is where the leak is then it is very possible that one of those rubber washers is bad. As far as driveability with a de-powered rack I find it just like driving with a manual rack. If you've never driven a non-powered steering vehicle then you'd find it more difficult to turn the wheels if the vehicle is not moving. I like it because it gives me more feeling in the steering process. I'm going to use the car as a combination road/track car so it works well for me.
I will consider depowering my power rack. My thoughts based on your video: 1. I would measure the banjo bolt width and machine an aluminum tube with the same width to keep the banjo bolts but torqued against essentially an aluminum crush washer (short tube with round knife-edge on each end to deform and seal). 2. I would take out the hydraulic bits e.g. the washers used to create pressure on the shaft, but I would think its a good idea to fill up the rack with some heavy weight gear oil like a 75W-90 to keep the bushings and bearings riding smooth. This would mean the shaft seals should be in good condition though or else it may spring a leak, but the gear oil is significantly more viscous than PS fluid. I would grease the rack teeth as well but thats about as much as you can lubricate it, if i recall its just hidden by the shaft boot on the driver side right?. Thats about it, any and all openings sealed with crush washers and bolts, and rack filled with gear oil.
How long of a job is it to rebuild a rack? I'm not interested in depowering my rack. I just want to do a stock rebuild. Thanks for sharing your video and experience. 🙂
Thanks for your questions - responses below - hope they're helpful
R1: My reasons for de-powering the rack are one less fluid and potential leak to deal with and I like the feel of manual steering - the original manual racks are getting very expensive.
R2: Hard to answer this one without pinpointing the source of your leak. More often than not, leaks originate in the powersteering pump or around the compression fittings of the high-pressure hoses. Driver's side leak may be in the box...
Thanks Jarrett! Great point - please send over details when you can
Just thought I would share my experience running a power rack without power. I did this on another car years ago and discovered that over time the power rack developed more and more play...excessive play. It is my thought that power racks are not meant to run unassisted and the metals and designs involved are not up to the task of handling the loads when unpowered. Unpowered racks are IMHO signficantly stiffer than even a manual rack. There is a video on UA-cam of a broken depowered rack. Personally I would like to hear from a power steering rack industry expert on the risks of running a power rack depowered.
I just filled the bolts with some Permatex that way if I ever wanted to use them again I could do so.
Have the ring off with the punch but the housing wont shift
what is the benefit of depowering a steering rack vs getting manual steering?
i believe that top port is the return, not the inlet side.
Thank you!