🛒 We Recommend Shopping At: • Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=theso... • Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order • Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=TheSol... • Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order 🤓 Watch the rest of the videos in this playlist: • Intro to Solar ☀ Get a Free Solar Estimate for Your Home: www.solar-estimate.org/solar-... 0:00 - Intro 1:15 - Series 2:40 - Parallel 4:37 - Real Life Example 5:15 - Series Parallel 6:58 - Summary This video will teach you the difference between wiring your solar panels in series vs parallel, and also how to combine both of these configurations to wire your panels in a series parallel configuration. We also show you step by step how to wire your solar panel array in each configuration, along with the pros and cons. Enjoy! 🔔 Subscribe to our UA-cam Channel: @TheSolarLab ⚡ FOLLOW US: / thesolarlab / thesolarlab 👨🏼💻 The Solar Lab: www.thesolarlab.com We maintain an affiliate relationship with some of the products reviewed, which means we get a small percentage of a sale if you click our links, at no cost to our viewers.
A few corrections. On series arrays, solar panels >= 100W have bypass diodes so if a panel is shaded it just goes into bypass. The array can continue producing and (for the most part) only the shaded panel's output drops off. Where paralleling works better in some cases it is really only in situations where there is a lot of random shading happening on many panels. On paralleling arrays, you can't just connect the positives together and the negatives together. You need to use a combiner box that individually fuses each source. Combiner boxes also typically have surge protection and a master breaker for convenient maintenance. Without the fuses, paralleling 3 or more panels introduces significant fire risk. And to be totally honest, its a good idea to us a combiner box even when paralleling just 2. Branch connectors should never be used. They are popular, I know, but its a major failure point because people buy these things off of Amazon and they often do not have enough copper internally to work safely. People also put branch connectors up on the roof without any protection of any sort and they become hazards over time due to the MC4 tabs becoming brittle. Even if you don't think you need a combiner box, get one anyway instead of using a branch connector. It also makes working on arrays easier because you have a convenient disconnect point that does not require disconnecting and reconnecting MC4 connectors (which also tends to result in broken MC4 tabs). Generally speaking, higher voltages at lower currents are a whole lot more efficient than lower voltages at higher currents, so series is almost always the way to go. But paralleling does make sense in a few situations. -Matt
Good job!!! That was a very coherent and easily discernible explanation! All that was missing was the best way to install 6 panels on top of a C class Winnebago!🤣 In all seriousness , great video!
Great video. Easy to understand. Thanks. Can you do multiple series and parallel? In other words, let's say you have 8 100 w panels, can you do 4 pairs in series and then do those 4 connections in parallel?
How are you doing solar array, grounding? Are you taking a ground wire back to your main earth ground on the grid? Are you doing a local grounding rod and then also tying that into your main ground at the grid? I’m curious what you’re doing for your set up thank you
what’s the difference between using branch components (e.g. mc4 y connector) vs splitters (e.g. xt60 splitter) for running parallel into a portable power station? is one of those safer than the other?
In the bad old days, a shaded panel took down the entire series string. Pretty much all new panels have a bypass diode now that fixes this problem - shaded panels just get skipped and the rest continue producing power.
When you did Series- Parallel Connection, I get two series as 10 amps going to the inverter to make it 20A. And I get adding the 3 panels’ volts to get 75V, but don’t you have to wire the second series’ negatives all together and positives all together? Also, WATTS. How does the Rich Solar unit accept 4500W? Doesn’t it say 3000? How do I calculate watt output for the example system?
So I purchased a Anker f2600 with a 60v max input @ 20 amps. However it says it can accept 1000w of solar. How in the world can I do this? Is this even possible? Or am I just stupid? 😂
Helpful, but saying "daisy chain" does not help the beginner. You need to show how negative goes to positive in the chain and also need to show the actual cable extension connections and how they connect.
How lazy is that, the panels clearly say there 20V x 10A for 200W rated. But you made them 250W cause you used open circuit voltage😮💨. You fuse regardless of array configuration, and you probably only need 1 rated for the final end point of array. The fuse protects your downstream equipment from the panel. If a panel outputs more than its rating, the damage is likely already done to the panel. and no fuse is going to reverse time on that.
@@mr.c6674 There video's are riddled with mistakes, A for effort in film making and editing but C for technical accuracy. Half of it could be solved by just reading the labels and proof reading...
🛒 We Recommend Shopping At:
• Signature Solar: signaturesolar.com/?ref=theso...
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order
• Shop Solar: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=TheSol...
• Use Code: THESOLARLAB50 for $50 Off Your Order
🤓 Watch the rest of the videos in this playlist: • Intro to Solar
☀ Get a Free Solar Estimate for Your Home: www.solar-estimate.org/solar-...
0:00 - Intro
1:15 - Series
2:40 - Parallel
4:37 - Real Life Example
5:15 - Series Parallel
6:58 - Summary
This video will teach you the difference between wiring your solar panels in series vs parallel, and also how to combine both of these configurations to wire your panels in a series parallel configuration. We also show you step by step how to wire your solar panel array in each configuration, along with the pros and cons. Enjoy!
🔔 Subscribe to our UA-cam Channel: @TheSolarLab
⚡ FOLLOW US:
/ thesolarlab
/ thesolarlab
👨🏼💻 The Solar Lab:
www.thesolarlab.com
We maintain an affiliate relationship with some of the products reviewed, which means we get a small percentage of a sale if you click our links, at no cost to our viewers.
This is a very underrated channel.
That was the shortest and best Series/Parallel explanation on UA-cam! Thank you.
A few corrections.
On series arrays, solar panels >= 100W have bypass diodes so if a panel is shaded it just goes into bypass. The array can continue producing and (for the most part) only the shaded panel's output drops off. Where paralleling works better in some cases it is really only in situations where there is a lot of random shading happening on many panels.
On paralleling arrays, you can't just connect the positives together and the negatives together. You need to use a combiner box that individually fuses each source. Combiner boxes also typically have surge protection and a master breaker for convenient maintenance. Without the fuses, paralleling 3 or more panels introduces significant fire risk. And to be totally honest, its a good idea to us a combiner box even when paralleling just 2.
Branch connectors should never be used. They are popular, I know, but its a major failure point because people buy these things off of Amazon and they often do not have enough copper internally to work safely. People also put branch connectors up on the roof without any protection of any sort and they become hazards over time due to the MC4 tabs becoming brittle.
Even if you don't think you need a combiner box, get one anyway instead of using a branch connector. It also makes working on arrays easier because you have a convenient disconnect point that does not require disconnecting and reconnecting MC4 connectors (which also tends to result in broken MC4 tabs).
Generally speaking, higher voltages at lower currents are a whole lot more efficient than lower voltages at higher currents, so series is almost always the way to go. But paralleling does make sense in a few situations.
-Matt
Many thanks. 🎉
Thank you for this wisdom! I'm staying clear of branch connectors as much as possible.
I like how he says “because science”
When I heard it I laughed! You didn't say it'd hit the funny bone like that. 😂
Best solar panels explanation i've seen!, ...because science.
Good explanation. Just subscribed. Thanks.
You had me at “Because Science” that really made me laugh and loved it. 😂❤
Q: Best way to mount solar on large storage shed?
rail my nigga
best video i have ever seen for explaining thank you!
This is the video I needed, explained in a very simple way even for newbies like me, Solar connections for Dummies! Thank You! You earned my Sub!✌
Well done. Thank you. Subscribed.
damn dude.. that was very informative.. better than alot of vids i watched.. thumbs up!
Good job!!!
That was a very coherent and easily discernible explanation! All that was missing was the best way to install 6 panels on top of a C class Winnebago!🤣
In all seriousness , great video!
Fantastic video, fellas!
Great video. Easy to understand. Thanks. Can you do multiple series and parallel? In other words, let's say you have 8 100 w panels, can you do 4 pairs in series and then do those 4 connections in parallel?
yes, you just need a 4:1 branch connector.
Thanks for the video. Just curious why you didn't talk about Wattage. Was it not important for these examples?
Great stuff! Thanks!
Very good! Thank you.
I would like to see a video on complete wiring from panels to controller to inverter and home
Because science. 😂 Seriously, thanks for sharing. Great explanation. 👍👍👍
Thank you for explaining
Thank you Man
Good info!
Very Nice! Because OHMS Law
How are you doing solar array, grounding? Are you taking a ground wire back to your main earth ground on the grid? Are you doing a local grounding rod and then also tying that into your main ground at the grid? I’m curious what you’re doing for your set up thank you
what’s the difference between using branch components (e.g. mc4 y connector) vs splitters (e.g. xt60 splitter) for running parallel into a portable power station? is one of those safer than the other?
Would you provide a link to the (I assume aluminum) ground mount please
Could you do a video wiring solar panels to delta pro 3 to get max watts, without going over the recommended voltage and amps?
Hooking up 2 in series/parallel together would be 30 A? You have three panels per series.
I think I got it now
In the bad old days, a shaded panel took down the entire series string. Pretty much all new panels have a bypass diode now that fixes this problem - shaded panels just get skipped and the rest continue producing power.
Is that really common with most all of them now. Or is there a way to know. Aside from just hooking up in series shading one to find out?
@@AquaTech225 I think you just look at the spec sheet and it should list that as a feature along with the wattage and voltage.
When you did Series- Parallel Connection, I get two series as 10 amps going to the inverter to make it 20A. And I get adding the 3 panels’ volts to get 75V, but don’t you have to wire the second series’ negatives all together and positives all together? Also, WATTS. How does the Rich Solar unit accept 4500W? Doesn’t it say 3000? How do I calculate watt output for the example system?
Because science!!😊
What happens if you go over just a bit over the amps spec on the charge controller?
Don’t.
I get the whole thing, but does one system charge batteries faster or not ? Can it be done with 2 x 200w and 2 x 100w ? :)
Wow
Which mc4 is positive on the back of a panel? Mine doesn't say
Volt meter.If you see a (-) meter wires are backwards.Meaning the other side is positive +
💙
If I increase my battery bank do I need to increase my solar panels.
So I purchased a Anker f2600 with a 60v max input @ 20 amps. However it says it can accept 1000w of solar. How in the world can I do this? Is this even possible? Or am I just stupid? 😂
From what I've read, using certain panels in a series + parallel set up and keep the amps and voltage within spec.
Helpful, but saying "daisy chain" does not help the beginner. You need to show how negative goes to positive in the chain and also need to show the actual cable extension connections and how they connect.
Still confused 🤔
How lazy is that, the panels clearly say there 20V x 10A for 200W rated. But you made them 250W cause you used open circuit voltage😮💨.
You fuse regardless of array configuration, and you probably only need 1 rated for the final end point of array. The fuse protects your downstream equipment from the panel. If a panel outputs more than its rating, the damage is likely already done to the panel. and no fuse is going to reverse time on that.
It was a matter of simplifying for educational purposes. YOU are an expert, but many of us mortals are trying to comprehend.
@@mr.c6674 There video's are riddled with mistakes, A for effort in film making and editing but C for technical accuracy. Half of it could be solved by just reading the labels and proof reading...
loose the hat and trim your hair in back
2:01 sure 😂😂😂