With the locked distributor the timing actually retards itself usually 1 degree per thousand rpm so I probably only had 30 at 5000 which is what the factory HO 302 had for total . But you end up with a backwards curve Locked out. Love the budget build and testing keep up the good work and also looking forward to the next video 👍
Is the timing getting delayed something the TFI module does when its not connected to an ECM? I will have to check on that next time I have it running. Thanks
great video! From what I read and experienced with a lincoln based non-HO roller long block back in the 90's - had flat top no valve relief pistons and E6SE swirl heads. I ran it in an 80 capri, T-5, 8.8 355 gear, shortie headers, gutted stock H-pipe, performer 289 intake and a Holley 600. The lincoln/non-HO roller cam made about 22-23" of vacuum at a low idle, was all done by mid-4000's as you are seeing here. I may have gasket matched the heads but no valve job(lapped maybe?), no shaving, no chamber work. I swapped in an HO cam from a Mustang and it was a completely different animal. the extra 10-15 degreees of duration @.050 was it, the extra .040" or so valve lift helped but it then pulled hard through mid 5000's, would rev to 6K(had aftermarket valve springs by then) and would light tires up. ran 14.0@96mph at Englishtown and was so fun. still make 19-20" of vacuum at idle. I am curious if port work helps and how much with the small cam. it should extend rpm range some and pick up a bit of torque. where are you located? I have a ton of parts I would like to test! are you looking for anything to test?
The port work should be interesting with the small cam, it probably wont do much but it will be fun to try. I cant really run this dyno too much right now so I cant take on more for the time being.
The valves on E6 heads are extremely shrouded so I would work on that also. You could port the heads out to the water jackets but if the air can't get around the valves it still won't flow air. David Vizard has shown that opening up the combustion chamber to increase air around the valves is worth way more power than the loss of compression ratio that comes with the territory. FYI, flat top pistons with no valve relieves (1988 LTD short block) with milled 289 heads and an E-cam will have the valves making contact with the pistons. I found this out with clay and checker springs. So be careful if you ever change heads and get away from the E6 heads which have the valves sunk way into the heads compared to traditional sbf heads.
Bear in mind that the addition of roller bearings into the engine will increase shearing of the oil additive pack and reduce oil viscosity far more quickly.
Put this cam in it CompCams magnum hydraulic roller cam #31-452-8 290HR Pretty close too the crane cams Holden 286h hydraulic cam cocks in Australia use but is roller cam and should give more power. A pair of ported GT-40 heads 1.6 or 1.7:1 rockers 10.5:1 compression Edelebrock Perfomer 650 double pumper 1-5/8 primary tri-y headers Optional AFR CNC ported heads.. Optional 347 stroker (flat tops) This should get you in the 350-450hp region Run a Recurved Chev GM style HEI distributor too suit ford 289 302 50K or 65k coil or run all MSD ignition or the Australian ICE ignition if you've got deep pockets.
@@engine_therapy I'd believe Speedmaster79 have elcheapo ford roller cams ($217.45 USD), and there budget 347 stroker crank, rods and pistons.. i don't recommend you use their rings though just use the intake manifold you've got.. And $20-$50 bucks maximum each scrap metal price for a the door stop GT-40 heads should cover it. Use $100 dollar LS beehive springs and new valve locks and retainers Surely you can't find a swap meet 650 double pumper for $50-$100 bucks??? If you can't afford that then I'd question why? You own a dyno??
A set of 1.7 rocker arms will increase the lift about 25-30 thousands. Try playing with the timing. 35 degrees seems a bit much for a mild build. Good luck, look forward to the next video. 👍🏼
@engine_therapy the combustion chamber shape truly dictates needed timing. Piston top design has minimal influence on timing. Read the plugs and use dyno to find timing needed. My lifetime experience with stock ford heads 38 degrees was very very common.😊
With the locked distributor the timing actually retards itself usually 1 degree per thousand rpm so I probably only had 30 at 5000 which is what the factory HO 302 had for total . But you end up with a backwards curve Locked out. Love the budget build and testing keep up the good work and also looking forward to the next video 👍
Is the timing getting delayed something the TFI module does when its not connected to an ECM? I will have to check on that next time I have it running. Thanks
great video! From what I read and experienced with a lincoln based non-HO roller long block back in the 90's - had flat top no valve relief pistons and E6SE swirl heads. I ran it in an 80 capri, T-5, 8.8 355 gear, shortie headers, gutted stock H-pipe, performer 289 intake and a Holley 600. The lincoln/non-HO roller cam made about 22-23" of vacuum at a low idle, was all done by mid-4000's as you are seeing here.
I may have gasket matched the heads but no valve job(lapped maybe?), no shaving, no chamber work. I swapped in an HO cam from a Mustang and it was a completely different animal. the extra 10-15 degreees of duration @.050 was it, the extra .040" or so valve lift helped but it then pulled hard through mid 5000's, would rev to 6K(had aftermarket valve springs by then) and would light tires up. ran 14.0@96mph at Englishtown and was so fun. still make 19-20" of vacuum at idle.
I am curious if port work helps and how much with the small cam. it should extend rpm range some and pick up a bit of torque.
where are you located? I have a ton of parts I would like to test! are you looking for anything to test?
The port work should be interesting with the small cam, it probably wont do much but it will be fun to try. I cant really run this dyno too much right now so I cant take on more for the time being.
The valves on E6 heads are extremely shrouded so I would work on that also. You could port the heads out to the water jackets but if the air can't get around the valves it still won't flow air. David Vizard has shown that opening up the combustion chamber to increase air around the valves is worth way more power than the loss of compression ratio that comes with the territory. FYI, flat top pistons with no valve relieves (1988 LTD short block) with milled 289 heads and an E-cam will have the valves making contact with the pistons. I found this out with clay and checker springs. So be careful if you ever change heads and get away from the E6 heads which have the valves sunk way into the heads compared to traditional sbf heads.
Totally agree about the valve shrouding. Thanks for the info on the piston to valve clearance.
Bear in mind that the addition of roller bearings into the engine will increase shearing of the oil additive pack and reduce oil viscosity far more quickly.
Thanks for the info!
Put this cam in it
CompCams magnum hydraulic roller cam #31-452-8
290HR
Pretty close too the crane cams Holden 286h hydraulic cam cocks in Australia use but is roller cam and should give more power.
A pair of ported GT-40 heads
1.6 or 1.7:1 rockers
10.5:1 compression
Edelebrock Perfomer
650 double pumper 1-5/8 primary tri-y headers
Optional AFR CNC ported heads..
Optional 347 stroker (flat tops)
This should get you in the 350-450hp region
Run a
Recurved Chev GM style HEI distributor too suit ford 289 302 50K or 65k coil or run all MSD ignition or the Australian ICE ignition if you've got deep pockets.
Unfortunately parts like that are outside of my budget.
@@engine_therapy
I'd believe
Speedmaster79 have elcheapo ford roller cams ($217.45 USD), and there budget 347 stroker crank, rods and pistons.. i don't recommend you use their rings though
just use the intake manifold you've got..
And
$20-$50 bucks maximum each scrap metal price for a the door stop GT-40 heads should cover it.
Use $100 dollar LS beehive springs and new valve locks and retainers
Surely you can't find a swap meet 650 double pumper for $50-$100 bucks???
If you can't afford that then I'd question why? You own a dyno??
A set of 1.7 rocker arms will increase the lift about 25-30 thousands. Try playing with the timing. 35 degrees seems a bit much for a mild build. Good luck, look forward to the next video. 👍🏼
Ok thanks!
@engine_therapy the combustion chamber shape truly dictates needed timing. Piston top design has minimal influence on timing. Read the plugs and use dyno to find timing needed. My lifetime experience with stock ford heads 38 degrees was very very common.😊
Did you try a run without that tiny restrictive air filter?
I have only run it with the filter on. I saw some testing a few years ago that showed this basic air filter is ok to about 350 hp.