I'm a bit late to the party but I've found that with ANYTHING that is tube-shaped (and there are lots of tube shapes in pen turning and lathes), bore brushes are a god-send. I've got dozens of different sizes from those used in automotive work (Harbor Freight) to ones used in gun cleaning. I have steel, brass, and nylon...and I use them almost every time I walk into my shop. Thanks for your videos!
I love instructional videos like this. Give me a single fix quick and to the point. Great video. I actually was thinking about taking mine apart next weekend and had never seen one come apart.
Good video, Bob. I'll pass along something an old mechanic that worked for Caterpillar told me, "when ever you lube something where a lot of dust is, use powdered graphite". I listened and he was right. The liquid or paste type lube are easily contaminated by the dust, but the powdered graphite will not hold on to the dust. One of the ones I've used is called, "Dry Slide".
Thank you Tarry, I’ll look for that at the big box. I was worried about dust but I really hat to do something as I could barely move the ram. Regards, Bob
I appreciate the breakdown on this, Bob. I have the same lathe, which is only a few months old at this time. I have this saved off for whenever I start running into any issues with the tailstock.
Hi Bob, Seeing you maintaining your tailstock on your Lathe reminded me of when I worked at the Colchester Lathe Co, (in the UK many moons ago ) one of the jobs I used to do was to etch the graduation marks on the ground tailstock barrel using acid, not the best of jobs but somebody had to do it, put it this way, there were not too many volunteers to do it, it was done in a small room which was very hot,and the extraction was not the best and you used to come out of there feeling very lightheaded. Due to health and safety it wouldn’t be allowed to do it like that nowadays , All the best my friend, Jolly Roger and out
Nice to see another video from you. I’ve enjoyed and learned something from every one. Funny that I started a few months ago with same Ryobi lathe I saw in your earliest videos. Figured out early on I’d need to upgrade but I still use the Ryobi as a buffing station, mainly. Really enjoying this new hobby and certainly owe you some thanks for helping me with the learning curve. 👍🏻
I know the feeling on no use. I have the headstock unbolted from mine at the moment. I hope to get back out there soon to finish that job. Regards, Bob
Bob - two points I also use garage door lubricant on my tailstock ram, but in fact the recommendation is to not use any lube at all. The reason is that sawdust will eventually get trapped in the lube, making it far more viscous. The result is that you will need to disassemble the ram more frequently. I suppose that's the choice - use lube, and have to clean and relube more frequently, or leave it dry to prolong the maintenance cycle. The other issue is that the screw that locks the ram in place doesn't always center properly in the groove machined in the side of the ram. Over time, you can inadvertently tighten the screw when it is off center, putting a nick in the wall of the groove in the ram. Those nicks can also contributed to the problem of the ram binding inside the tailstock. Each time I disassemble my ram for cleaning and lubing, I use a file to smooth the walls of that groove.
Thanks so much, Robert. The handle on my tail stock is frozen and I can't retrack a blank I've been turning. I don't know if I can do what you did since I have a blank I'm turning still on it, but I will try. Really appreciate the video.
Thank you, Bob, I've had some issues with the locking mechanisms under the tailstock. May have to address those parts to allow the tailstock to smoothly move across the rail. Thank you. Jim
Hi Bob - Greetings from Nebraska - Be careful of what lubricants you use in the shop. I recently took anything that had silicone in it out of my workshop and upstairs to my garage. Silicone tends to migrate around, especially the spray lubricants and nothing sticks to silicone. Stray silicone, even a little can impair how well paints, coatings, and finishes adhere to things. I hope things are going good for you at work! - I check for new videos often! - Dave
Bob, I have a 12" turncrafter. I am having tail-stock issue getting the tail stack to engage. If I turn the hand wheel clockwise the hand wheel will work its way backwoods, and unscrew itself from the Quill.. Also, if the Hand wheel has created a little give, I am able to slide the quill back and Forth giving me the ability to retract the live center normally but will not gradually move forward, and not tighten down. I noticed you have washer, as I do not. Is that was a pivotal piece in keeping everything together? Dan
Great instructional video, especially since I own this exact lathe too. I haven’t had any sticking problem, but I have noticed that my tailstock is loose. Any ideas how to address that issue?
When you say 'loose', do you mean that the ram screw is loose, or that the entire tailstock has a tendency to rotate a fraction of a degree? Turncrafter lathes are great machines, but they aren't as solid and robust as machines that cost ten times as much. In particular, they have a common characteristic that the casting on the bottom of the tailstock is very slightly narrower than the spacing between the bedways, with the result that the tailstock can 'wiggle' just a bit. I found that on my 12" Turncrafter, I got about 0.6 degrees of rotation - which unfortunately means that the alignment between headstock and tailstock is not as good as one would like. I've heard of people gluing bits of feeler gage to the bottom of the casting to reduce the backlash, but I've never tried to do that. About the only time this is a real problem is when drilling, and I've found that the solution is to create a center dimple on the workpiece, and then center the drill bit on that dimple before locking down the tailstock.
The tailstock should be a little loose between the ways otherwise it won’t slide. Smooth movement back and forth is what your after. You just have to make sure the head stock it straight so the tail stock will slide perfectly up to it. I’m currently working on this exact issue with my lathe.
My headstock and tailstock align perfectly so no problem there. I guess loose was too broad a term. Bob you described it well when you said “wiggles”. Now I won’t worry about it. Thanks to both of you.
Big help for all the owners of similar lathe Bob! Thanks a lot!
Thank you Kwstas .
Regards,
Bob
Very good to see you back in the shop Bob enjoy it while you can
Thank you John,
I’m facing fun but I know it’s not going to last.
Regards,
Bob
I'm a bit late to the party but I've found that with ANYTHING that is tube-shaped (and there are lots of tube shapes in pen turning and lathes), bore brushes are a god-send. I've got dozens of different sizes from those used in automotive work (Harbor Freight) to ones used in gun cleaning. I have steel, brass, and nylon...and I use them almost every time I walk into my shop. Thanks for your videos!
Thank you Glen.
Regards,
Bob
keep the maintenance videos coming. I have problems with my lathe.
Will do,
Regards,
Bob
I love instructional videos like this. Give me a single fix quick and to the point. Great video. I actually was thinking about taking mine apart next weekend and had never seen one come apart.
Thank you Rowland.
Regards,
Bob
Good video, Bob. I'll pass along something an old mechanic that worked for Caterpillar told me, "when ever you lube something where a lot of dust is, use powdered graphite". I listened and he was right. The liquid or paste type lube are easily contaminated by the dust, but the powdered graphite will not hold on to the dust. One of the ones I've used is called, "Dry Slide".
Thank you Tarry,
I’ll look for that at the big box. I was worried about dust but I really hat to do something as I could barely move the ram.
Regards,
Bob
Ha, something is better then nothing...!
I appreciate the breakdown on this, Bob. I have the same lathe, which is only a few months old at this time. I have this saved off for whenever I start running into any issues with the tailstock.
Thank you Mike.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob, an often overlooked area.
Thank you Lynn.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob, Seeing you maintaining your tailstock on your Lathe reminded me of when I worked at the Colchester Lathe Co, (in the UK many moons ago ) one of the jobs I used to do was to etch the graduation marks on the ground tailstock barrel using acid, not the best of jobs but somebody had to do it, put it this way, there were not too many volunteers to do it, it was done in a small room which was very hot,and the extraction was not the best and you used to come out of there feeling very lightheaded. Due to health and safety it wouldn’t be allowed to do it like that nowadays , All the best my friend, Jolly Roger and out
Thank you for the story Roger, I appreciated reading it.
Regards,
Bob
Nice to see another video from you. I’ve enjoyed and learned something from every one. Funny that I started a few months ago with same Ryobi lathe I saw in your earliest videos. Figured out early on I’d need to upgrade but I still use the Ryobi as a buffing station, mainly. Really enjoying this new hobby and certainly owe you some thanks for helping me with the learning curve. 👍🏻
Thank you Russ,
I still have my old Ryobi. I have been wanting to restore it just for fun and still may once time freed up.
Regards,
Bob
So glad to see this instructional video I have the same issue with it sticking and wasn’t sure how to handle it. Now I know
Thank you Mike.
Regards,
Bob
Yes sir, I also need to do this. Thanks for the share!
Thank you Jimmie.
Regards
Bob
Good to see you Bob👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you Alan.
Regards,
Bob
Great vid . I did the same to mine about three weeks ago . And haven't had time to use it since lol . Thanks Bob take care .
I know the feeling on no use. I have the headstock unbolted from mine at the moment. I hope to get back out there soon to finish that job.
Regards,
Bob
Nicely done sir
Thank you Scott.
Regards,
Bob
I got the same lathe and I like to see maintenance on the lathe that I might need to do myself thanks
Thank you Donald,
I’ve got another maintenance project going on it time allows.
Regards,
Bob
Bob - two points
I also use garage door lubricant on my tailstock ram, but in fact the recommendation is to not use any lube at all. The reason is that sawdust will eventually get trapped in the lube, making it far more viscous. The result is that you will need to disassemble the ram more frequently. I suppose that's the choice - use lube, and have to clean and relube more frequently, or leave it dry to prolong the maintenance cycle.
The other issue is that the screw that locks the ram in place doesn't always center properly in the groove machined in the side of the ram. Over time, you can inadvertently tighten the screw when it is off center, putting a nick in the wall of the groove in the ram. Those nicks can also contributed to the problem of the ram binding inside the tailstock. Each time I disassemble my ram for cleaning and lubing, I use a file to smooth the walls of that groove.
Thank you Louie. This is good advise.
Regards,
Bob
Welcome back Bob
Thank you Harry.
Regards,
Bob
Chuck would be next, but that is a more than 15 min video, but should be great info on cleaning one of those puppies. Have a great weekend Bob
Thank you Robert,
If I can get some time, I’ll see what I can do.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks so much, Robert. The handle on my tail stock is frozen and I can't retrack a blank I've been turning. I don't know if I can do what you did since I have a blank I'm turning still on it, but I will try. Really appreciate the video.
Good luck Steve,
I hope you’re able to get it fixed.
Thank you, Bob, I've had some issues with the locking mechanisms under the tailstock. May have to address those parts to allow the tailstock to smoothly move across the rail. Thank you. Jim
Thank you Jim.
Regards,
Bob
U bet..
Great video, very helpful! I have a Turncrafter also. The tailstock has been acting up. I’m gonna try this to see if it helps.
Thank you Paxton.
Regards,
Bob
Great video, thanks!
Thank you Bob.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob - Greetings from Nebraska - Be careful of what lubricants you use in the shop. I recently took anything that had silicone in it out of my workshop and upstairs to my garage. Silicone tends to migrate around, especially the spray lubricants and nothing sticks to silicone. Stray silicone, even a little can impair how well paints, coatings, and finishes adhere to things. I hope things are going good for you at work! - I check for new videos often! - Dave
Thank you Dave,
This is good information. Work has been keeping me busy.
Regards,
Bob
Bob,
I have a 12" turncrafter. I am having tail-stock issue getting the tail stack to engage. If I turn the hand wheel clockwise the hand wheel will work its way backwoods, and unscrew itself from the Quill.. Also, if the Hand wheel has created a little give, I am able to slide the quill back and Forth giving me the ability to retract the live center normally but will not gradually move forward, and not tighten down. I noticed you have washer, as I do not. Is that was a pivotal piece in keeping everything together?
Dan
The washer takes the slop out of it.
@@RJBWoodTurner I found an M16 washer from ACE Hardware fits perfectly.
@@timothydahl8365 great find.
Great instructional video, especially since I own this exact lathe too. I haven’t had any sticking problem, but I have noticed that my tailstock is loose. Any ideas how to address that issue?
When you say 'loose', do you mean that the ram screw is loose, or that the entire tailstock has a tendency to rotate a fraction of a degree?
Turncrafter lathes are great machines, but they aren't as solid and robust as machines that cost ten times as much. In particular, they have a common characteristic that the casting on the bottom of the tailstock is very slightly narrower than the spacing between the bedways, with the result that the tailstock can 'wiggle' just a bit. I found that on my 12" Turncrafter, I got about 0.6 degrees of rotation - which unfortunately means that the alignment between headstock and tailstock is not as good as one would like. I've heard of people gluing bits of feeler gage to the bottom of the casting to reduce the backlash, but I've never tried to do that. About the only time this is a real problem is when drilling, and I've found that the solution is to create a center dimple on the workpiece, and then center the drill bit on that dimple before locking down the tailstock.
The tailstock should be a little loose between the ways otherwise it won’t slide. Smooth movement back and forth is what your after. You just have to make sure the head stock it straight so the tail stock will slide perfectly up to it. I’m currently working on this exact issue with my lathe.
Great information. Thank you.
My headstock and tailstock align perfectly so no problem there. I guess loose was too broad a term. Bob you described it well when you said “wiggles”. Now I won’t worry about it. Thanks to both of you.
Hey Bob I was wondering what the swing on your lathe is. And also the HP thank you!
He’ll Kyle,
It’s a 5” swing and a 1/2” HO motor.
Regards,
Bob
good video for the lathe, did you ever work on your harbor freight lathe?
I haven’t but the more I learn, the more I wonder if I can get it working properly.
Regards,
Bob
Please give subtitles sir thanks
😃