+1 for a funny coincidence! I've been unable to turn for several months now and just yesterday started gearing up to turn a couple dozen pens, so this maintenance reminder is right on time. Thanks Mike, good tips as always.
Mike. Thank you, thank you, thank you, Just did this to my 10 year old powermatic and better then new again. Thanks again and thank you for all of your videos. The maintenance once are friendly reminders about things we don’t always think about.
A very good topic. Many wood workers and turners I know do not like to perform maintenance. I think it is good to keep things working smoothly. Also helps to minimize wear or keep the machine performing to specification. Not all lathes need the handle to be removed to get the quill out. My NOVA DVR lathe does not auto-eject the quill, so its handle is attached to the tailstock. The quill just screws out with the handle in place. Good advice to check the channel for the pin. This is easily swaged over time. I have worked on the quills of two midi lathes, one a Delta and one a Rikon. The Delta channel for the pin was messed up. This was due to a manufacturing defect. The hole for the pin was drilled at an angle. I was able to mount the tailstock in my milling machine and drill another hole at 90 deg to the quill. Dry lube is a good product to use. I would also spray into the tailstock. If dry lube is not available, a light weight oil like 3-in-1 works well. Grease should be avoided, it will hold wood dust and make a mess. These days I like to use PTFE based dry lube. This is a higher temperature product than the commonly available teflon products, and so can be used in my 3D printer as well as the wood lathe. Your quill did not have burrs on the Morse taper, which is good. I have special hand reamers for MT2 and MT3 which can clean up the Morse taper. They work well, but are expensive. A poor-mans reamer is a 1in strip of e.g., 600 grit wet-dry paper lubricated with WD-40 and wrapped around a known good taper like the end of a live centre or Morse taper drill. Rotate the taper in the direction of the spiral of the paper. You will hear and feel as any burrs or nicks in the taper are removed. Dave.
Thanks for the tips on taking my tailstock apart. Found out my lead screw was stripped so I bought a new screw and quill. The new screw had a ding in the threads as well. So anyone who might read this...don't try to force the threads. They are too fragile and they are left hand so can only be machined to restore. A new screw was less than $50 delivered.
Thanks for this video Mike! I've been needing to do this maintenance to my tail stock for a while now. Fortunately, your video popped up when I googled how to do this.
Thanks, Mike! I could not figure out why the quill on my two month old lathe suddenly became so difficult to turn. As you point out, a burr had formed along the edge of one of the channels running the length of the quill, and a couple passes with a file got it working smoothly again.
I usually place some sort of baking pan under the work area to catch the grub screws when, not if, I drop one. It works well the catch hex wrenches as well. ;-) Good job on this video Mike.
Bravo Mike! 👍👍👏👏 Might want to mention just how often you recommend to pull maintenance on the avg. lathe & for one used heavily.. Btw, this much like the abbreviated Jet video on tailstock cleaning/maintenance, but yours is much better! 👌👌
Maintiance, something I have tried to get into so many minds. I've been a mechanical technician my whole life. I have a little saying, "anything built by man is subject to failure without any given notice",. All machinery requires it, some more often than others. A little time doing maitiance can make all the differance, could keep you going instead of saying, "my machine is broke". Put it as a normal part of any operation, its very important. Oh yeah, WD-40 came about during the saturn 5 rocket era. Nasa was having issues with rust forming on stored parts and asked a team of scientists to try and come up with something to prevent it. End result is what is known as WD-40. WATER DISPERSANT-, formula number 40 worked. Hence, WD-40, LOL...........Thanks Mike, excellant subject for all...........
I learned a bit about maintenance in the Army. I was able to compare loaner self propelled howizers shared by different reserve units and borrowed from a storage site that were fully maintained by mechanics versus those poorly maintained by an active duty unit in Texas. The difference in up time and reliability was startling.
That was very informative as I have bad trouble with my tailstock. Unfortunately there is a piece on the lathe and my handle is frozen. I can't move it forward or backward. Any ideas?
good morning. My ratchet lock broke. how do I know what what to order as a replacement? Is it based on the screw size or length of screw? I am very new to turning. I was given a full size lathe about 2 years ago and have just started trying to learn how to use it. The tail stock is stuck and not extending at all. so thank you for this video. Please any advice would be great. My chuck also was stuck yesterday and thank you for that video as well. Got that going then the other end gave me trouble.... Not a good day in the workshop but I guess I am learning the hard way on how to take care of my machine. hope to hear from you soon. Thank you
Hello, I thank you for sharing your experience that has been very useful to me to learn more about the world of turning, I would like to ask you if you know of a store where I could buy those internal parts of the Tailstock or with what name could I search?
If it is internal to the tailstock you need to go to the manufacturer's website as each lathe is different. You can usually download the manual for most modern lathes. The internal tailstock parts are a quill and a lead screw. If it is a removeable live center that mounts in the Morse taper, any woodturning vendor like Craft Supplies USA or Woodcraft. Or Amazon.
I recently cleaned my tailstock on a Jet 1642. Same process as what you demonstrated. Thanks for the video. What’s that red rubber band for that’s connected to the lock down handle on the tailstock?
Sig. Mike la ringrazio per aver condiviso questo tutorial sono nelle stesse condizioni ho smontato il volantino ho estratto il tubo millimetrato dove si innesta la contro punta ho anche rettificato la scanalatura del fermo, ho lubrificato con il WD 40 tuttala sede della vite ma per metà corsa scorre bene poi tende a sforzare , dove sbaglio? Comunque domenica 13/1 lo smonterò di nuovo seguendo i suoi consigli. GRAZIE un italiano
Mike, the threaded screw on mine is frozen in the quill and I can’t get it out. Afraid I discovered your great video too late and needed maintenance didn’t happen. Any suggestions for getting it unfrozen and out of the quill? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Love your work…
Hey Mike I think it was you that used a custom made magnetic spindle lock for the Laguna 1216 lathe made by Tim? Did I get this right? If so could you possibly drop me his numbers. Thanks!
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thank you Mike. My next question for you is this. I do not like the cheap quill handle on the Laguna 1216. Do you know since you bought your new Powermatic if I could put a better handle on the 1216. I want to swap it out. I know I can find something but you have a ton of experience and I really dig your style. Last I feel I need to mention in a question?. Why on earth would Laguna Tool change the color of the power switch from the international colors of Red/Green to White over Black? That is just NUTS! After watching you unbox that new Powermatic I am thinking on selling my Laguna 1216 and follow you and buy the new Powermatic. Good Job Mike. Thank You!
Re: the quill handle, I no longer have the Laguna to compare so cannot really say. I am guessing Laguna had a supply chain disruption and temporarily switched to a switch with a different color. But do not know. Might be a good question to pose on the Laguna REVO 12-16 Lathe Owners Group FB page
Hi Mike I know this video is 4yrs old but I actually bought a used jet 1014 back in February. Unfortunately I think maintenance was not even a thought for the previous owner. I took the tailstock as far apart as I could but couldn't seem to get the handle off . I assume once you remove the set screws it should just slide off which unfortunately is not the case for me. Any suggestions on what to do with it.
Spray with WD40 and let it sit. You may have to tap around it a bit with a wooden mallet or pllstic handle. Make sure All of the set screws are out and spray in those holes as well.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thanks Mike work great. There was a lot of black dust almost like coal dust in there which would explain why it was hardly turning at all. Has a lot of scoring in the tapers inside, doesn't look like the previous owner really didn't do any maintenance on it.
A bit off topic, but I just bought my first lathe, a walker turner driver 700;series. My question is when I lock the tailstock down and advance the quill into the wood the tailstock moves as I am turning the wheel. I am certain the lock is tight, any suggestions? Sure have been enjoying your many video’s. Thank you for spending the time to teach
If it slips it needs tightening. I have seen some pros wack the TS lever with a tool handle. Wax on the bedway can make slipping worse. You may need to adjust the locking nut to get the locking range just right.
Mike Peace Woodturning Thank you sir, I appreciate your reply. Being new to lathes I wasn’t sure but felt it shouldn’t move. All there is to it is a flat washer and the nut and bolt, might try a lock washer. As for tightening, I am a very large man and have been tightening it with gusto only to have it move back. I will keep at it👍
@@dananderson3183 Slide off the tailstock and examine the part that clamps underneathe the bedway. Sounds like their may have been some poor machining. Call Customer Support. They may be able to easily replacy the bad part if that is what it is.
Mike Peace Woodturning Thanks again Mike, the lathe is somewhere around 70 years old but your idea is a good one. I have a good friend who runs his own machine shop perhaps he will look at it and true it up again for me. Likely built in the late 1940’s or early 1950’s
@@dananderson3183 I have seen this complaint on some mini lathes that used a large round washer. Someone actually fabricated replacement square or rectangular blocks with milled sides to better grab the bottom of the bed. Your machinist friend should be able to sort that out for you.
Funny coincidence that I just had mine apart for repair day before yesterday and you put a video up on maintaining it this morning. Always a pleasure.
Sorry for being late!
+1 for a funny coincidence! I've been unable to turn for several months now and just yesterday started gearing up to turn a couple dozen pens, so this maintenance reminder is right on time.
Thanks Mike, good tips as always.
I appreciate the feedback, Ken.
Mike. Thank you, thank you, thank you, Just did this to my 10 year old powermatic and better then new again. Thanks again and thank you for all of your videos. The maintenance once are friendly reminders about things we don’t always think about.
Fantastic! Glad all is well again.
I need to do this Mike on my 5320B Powermatic. So glad you posted this video.
Easy fix to what might be aggravating and worrisome.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Just did cleaning. Wow! Much smoother now. Amazing how much stuff was trapped. Thanks again!
A lot of practical experience here. Wood TURNING gives many hrs of pleasure, therefore; we must do our maintenance. SAFE TURNING, John
A very good topic. Many wood workers and turners I know do not like to perform maintenance. I think it is good to keep things working smoothly. Also helps to minimize wear or keep the machine performing to specification.
Not all lathes need the handle to be removed to get the quill out. My NOVA DVR lathe does not auto-eject the quill, so its handle is attached to the tailstock. The quill just screws out with the handle in place.
Good advice to check the channel for the pin. This is easily swaged over time.
I have worked on the quills of two midi lathes, one a Delta and one a Rikon. The Delta channel for the pin was messed up. This was due to a manufacturing defect. The hole for the pin was drilled at an angle. I was able to mount the tailstock in my milling machine and drill another hole at 90 deg to the quill.
Dry lube is a good product to use. I would also spray into the tailstock. If dry lube is not available, a light weight oil like 3-in-1 works well. Grease should be avoided, it will hold wood dust and make a mess.
These days I like to use PTFE based dry lube. This is a higher temperature product than the commonly available teflon products, and so can be used in my 3D printer as well as the wood lathe.
Your quill did not have burrs on the Morse taper, which is good. I have special hand reamers for MT2 and MT3 which can clean up the Morse taper. They work well, but are expensive. A poor-mans reamer is a 1in strip of e.g., 600 grit wet-dry paper lubricated with WD-40 and wrapped around a known good taper like the end of a live centre or Morse taper drill. Rotate the taper in the direction of the spiral of the paper. You will hear and feel as any burrs or nicks in the taper are removed.
Dave.
Great tip to use another MT! Thanks for sharing.
Very good. Clear and concise. Watch out for slippery fingers. I am overdue for similar maintenance on my lathe. Thanks
Thanks for your support, George.
Got mine done today made a huge difference. Thanks
Great to hear!
Thanks for the tips on taking my tailstock apart. Found out my lead screw was stripped so I bought a new screw and quill. The new screw had a ding in the threads as well. So anyone who might read this...don't try to force the threads. They are too fragile and they are left hand so can only be machined to restore. A new screw was less than $50 delivered.
Glad it helped.
Thanks for this video Mike! I've been needing to do this maintenance to my tail stock for a while now. Fortunately, your video popped up when I googled how to do this.
Great to hear!
Thanks for this video Mike. Really helped me today.
Glad to hear it!
5am?? Bell went off,so had to watch! Nicely explained Mike👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😁😁😁😁😁😁😁
Yea, I was up late so decided to add to a playlist and release.
Thanks Mike. My tail stock wasn't pushing forward. I'll try this.
Thanks Mike. Love that you didn't edit out the slip and drop!
Stuff happens. Gotta keep it real.
Excellent instruction and demonstration. Thanks
Thank you very much. Very helpful👍🏼👍🏼
Great video! I was just going to do mine this weekend. Thanks Mike for showing how to do it. 👍🇺🇸
Timing is everything. Glad it will help.
Thanks for the video Mike. Your tips worked a treat.
Cheers, Ben.
Thanks, I appreciate that, Ben
Great video Mike! Thank you for the detailed breakdown of the tailstock. :)
You bet!
That was useful! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, Mike! I could not figure out why the quill on my two month old lathe suddenly became so difficult to turn. As you point out, a burr had formed along the edge of one of the channels running the length of the quill, and a couple passes with a file got it working smoothly again.
Glad I could help!
I usually place some sort of baking pan under the work area to catch the grub screws when, not if, I drop one. It works well the catch hex wrenches as well. ;-) Good job on this video Mike.
Thanks, Gil!
Thanks so much for posting this, it is exactly what I was looking for.
Glad it was helpful!
Good job! Need to clean mine now.
Sometimes problem solving needs a bit of a nudge, Greg.
Bravo Mike! 👍👍👏👏 Might want to mention just how often you recommend to pull maintenance on the avg. lathe & for one used heavily..
Btw, this much like the abbreviated Jet video on tailstock cleaning/maintenance, but yours is much better! 👌👌
I do the TS when it is stiff to crank. I think it is a function of how much drilling you do. Wd40 wiped own at the start of the day.
Mine was so hard to turn the other day I took it apart and cleaned and lube. Works great now.
Good deal!
Timely. I'm overdue to give mine a good workover.
Alan
Good to know, thanks for sharing
Thanks for the reminder well done
Thanks for watching, Harry.
Thank you I needed that
I appreciate your feedback John Johnson, Jr
Maintiance, something I have tried to get into so many minds. I've been a mechanical technician my whole life. I have a little saying, "anything built by man is subject to failure without any given notice",. All machinery requires it, some more often than others. A little time doing maitiance can make all the differance, could keep you going instead of saying, "my machine is broke". Put it as a normal part of any operation, its very important. Oh yeah, WD-40 came about during the saturn 5 rocket era. Nasa was having issues with rust forming on stored parts and asked a team of scientists to try and come up with something to prevent it. End result is what is known as WD-40. WATER DISPERSANT-, formula number 40 worked. Hence, WD-40, LOL...........Thanks Mike, excellant subject for all...........
I learned a bit about maintenance in the Army. I was able to compare loaner self propelled howizers shared by different reserve units and borrowed from a storage site that were fully maintained by mechanics versus those poorly maintained by an active duty unit in Texas. The difference in up time and reliability was startling.
thank you mike
I’ll have to remember this one. Since I’ve only used my lathe a few times I’m sure it doesn’t need this maintenance yet. Thanks.
Keep turning and you will. Safe turning.
That was very informative as I have bad trouble with my tailstock. Unfortunately there is a piece on the lathe and my handle is frozen. I can't move it forward or backward. Any ideas?
Slide the tailstock back. Remove the handwheel and see if some spray pentrating oil might help free it up.
Thank You!
Thanks for commenting.
good morning. My ratchet lock broke. how do I know what what to order as a replacement? Is it based on the screw size or length of screw? I am very new to turning. I was given a full size lathe about 2 years ago and have just started trying to learn how to use it. The tail stock is stuck and not extending at all. so thank you for this video. Please any advice would be great. My chuck also was stuck yesterday and thank you for that video as well. Got that going then the other end gave me trouble.... Not a good day in the workshop but I guess I am learning the hard way on how to take care of my machine. hope to hear from you soon. Thank you
Check out this video for assistance ua-cam.com/video/Ik-UiFlQ8v0/v-deo.html and let me know if you still have problems.
I wish the previous owners of my 50 year old Rockwell had seen your video.....I think they put the contraption together with loktight and epoxy.
😂😂😂😂
Hello, I thank you for sharing your experience that has been very useful to me to learn more about the world of turning, I would like to ask you if you know of a store where I could buy those internal parts of the Tailstock or with what name could I search?
If it is internal to the tailstock you need to go to the manufacturer's website as each lathe is different. You can usually download the manual for most modern lathes. The internal tailstock parts are a quill and a lead screw. If it is a removeable live center that mounts in the Morse taper, any woodturning vendor like Craft Supplies USA or Woodcraft. Or Amazon.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thank you so much
I recently cleaned my tailstock on a Jet 1642. Same process as what you demonstrated. Thanks for the video. What’s that red rubber band for that’s connected to the lock down handle on the tailstock?
It is a large rubber band that keeps the TS lock lever in neutral so I can slide TS with one hand and not have to use one to hold the lever up.
Mike Peace Woodturning Great idea. I’ll have to add that to my lathe
Sig. Mike la ringrazio per aver condiviso questo tutorial sono nelle stesse condizioni
ho smontato il volantino ho estratto il tubo millimetrato dove si innesta la contro punta ho anche rettificato la scanalatura del fermo, ho lubrificato con il WD 40 tuttala sede della vite ma per metà corsa scorre bene poi tende a sforzare , dove sbaglio? Comunque domenica 13/1 lo smonterò di nuovo seguendo i suoi consigli. GRAZIE un italiano
Eccellente!
Mike, the threaded screw on mine is frozen in the quill and I can’t get it out. Afraid I discovered your great video too late and needed maintenance didn’t happen. Any suggestions for getting it unfrozen and out of the quill? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Love your work…
Try PBBlaster or other penetration oil
It worked! Thanks so much and keep up the good work!
Hey Mike I think it was you that used a custom made magnetic spindle lock for the Laguna 1216 lathe made by Tim? Did I get this right? If so could you possibly drop me his numbers. Thanks!
He does not selll them. Try making one of wood. Turned cylender and a glued flat paddle.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thank you Mike. My next question for you is this. I do not like the cheap quill handle on the Laguna 1216. Do you know since you bought your new Powermatic if I could put a better handle on the 1216. I want to swap it out. I know I can find something but you have a ton of experience and I really dig your style. Last I feel I need to mention in a question?. Why on earth would Laguna Tool change the color of the power switch from the international colors of Red/Green to White over Black? That is just NUTS! After watching you unbox that new Powermatic I am thinking on selling my Laguna 1216 and follow you and buy the new Powermatic. Good Job Mike. Thank You!
Re: the quill handle, I no longer have the Laguna to compare so cannot really say. I am guessing Laguna had a supply chain disruption and temporarily switched to a switch with a different color. But do not know. Might be a good question to pose on the Laguna REVO 12-16 Lathe Owners Group FB page
Hi Mike I know this video is 4yrs old but I actually bought a used jet 1014 back in February. Unfortunately I think maintenance was not even a thought for the previous owner. I took the tailstock as far apart as I could but couldn't seem to get the handle off . I assume once you remove the set screws it should just slide off which unfortunately is not the case for me. Any suggestions on what to do with it.
Spray with WD40 and let it sit. You may have to tap around it a bit with a wooden mallet or pllstic handle. Make sure All of the set screws are out and spray in those holes as well.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thanks Mike work great. There was a lot of black dust almost like coal dust in there which would explain why it was hardly turning at all. Has a lot of scoring in the tapers inside, doesn't look like the previous owner really didn't do any maintenance on it.
A bit off topic, but I just bought my first lathe, a walker turner driver 700;series. My question is when I lock the tailstock down and advance the quill into the wood the tailstock moves as I am turning the wheel. I am certain the lock is tight, any suggestions? Sure have been enjoying your many video’s. Thank you for spending the time to teach
If it slips it needs tightening. I have seen some pros wack the TS lever with a tool handle. Wax on the bedway can make slipping worse. You may need to adjust the locking nut to get the locking range just right.
Mike Peace Woodturning Thank you sir, I appreciate your reply. Being new to lathes I wasn’t sure but felt it shouldn’t move. All there is to it is a flat washer and the nut and bolt, might try a lock washer. As for tightening, I am a very large man and have been tightening it with gusto only to have it move back. I will keep at it👍
@@dananderson3183 Slide off the tailstock and examine the part that clamps underneathe the bedway. Sounds like their may have been some poor machining. Call Customer Support. They may be able to easily replacy the bad part if that is what it is.
Mike Peace Woodturning Thanks again Mike, the lathe is somewhere around 70 years old but your idea is a good one. I have a good friend who runs his own machine shop perhaps he will look at it and true it up again for me. Likely built in the late 1940’s or early 1950’s
@@dananderson3183 I have seen this complaint on some mini lathes that used a large round washer. Someone actually fabricated replacement square or rectangular blocks with milled sides to better grab the bottom of the bed. Your machinist friend should be able to sort that out for you.
how about using a rifle barrel brush and barrel solvent to clean system? Too harsh a solvent?
Barrel brush is good. I cannot see a need for a solvent. But if you do, make sure it is completely removed.
harbor freight has allen wrenches with a plastic handle that I find much easier to use than those L shaped ones.
I need to get a good set of those.