Terry, I am saddened to hear about your situation. The layout was well on its way to being fabulous. I wish I had the room for it. I would definitely accept your gracious offer so that I could continue your wonderful work. I do hope that someone claims it so that the dumpster doesn't get the victory. Thanks for taking us with you as you remember this great work in progress.
Thank you. I'd like to think that it would have been fabulous. I was working on scenery landforms that would have extended above and below track level. Layouts built flat cannot get this "negative relief". I've also studied scenery colors for a long time and large expanses of Woodland Scenics products were not in the cards.
Your commentary presents someone with a very positive outlook-- considering your acceptance of the dismantling process of your impressive Layout. I can only imagine the "take your breath away" feeling you got when descending your stairwell into the basement revealing your custom bridge abutments and river scene! I'm sure that's a vivid image in your mind's eye (without the photo/slide). You can certainly "see" the completed scenery to the floor below the Tray River Viaduct too. A Layout design, like yours, using a curved (masonite) backdrop to exclude unnatural right angles was just one of your "must-haves" I'm sure. Would you have mounted photo backdrops on each of the panels-- or added a painted perspective beyond a "blue sky" alone? I'd guess you may have also considered "vertical scenery" like we've seen on the installation of the A&O RR out west that O Scale National attendees visited?
Thanks for your kind comments. It was my intent to use photo backdrops wherever possible. I have worked out a process for doing them and when I was in Virginia I was only 4 hours away from the area that I modeled, so I could photograph the actual scenery. Can't get more realistic than that! I do not think of myself as very artistic, so drawing/painting them is out of the question. The layout was quite the learning experience: I constantly surprised myself with skills I did not know that I had. My recommendation to one and all is build your layout - don't delay. You do not want to be like me and have to dismantle a layout before its time.
@@2railoscale thank you. I’ve been trying to figure out some economical ways to get into 2 rail. I own lots of Lionel O27 track, some Atlas 3 rail switches. My first question is, can I simply remove the center rail of my existing O27 track and use that? Will I run into any sort of issues? The second question I have is, if you’re able to point me to any resources where I can learn about converting my locomotives into 2 rail. I own 2 Lionel starter set locomotives from the 90s and a new 0-8-0 Lionel locomotive. All of which are very simple in their design. The final question is, what is the minimum curve I can get away with if I were to install Kadee couplers? Thank you for your time.
@@DavidMartinez-se5vl You cannot just pull the center rail from O27 track. The ties are metal and they represent a dead short in 2 rail. The center rail is insulated and therefore does not short out on a 3 rail layout. Maybe the 3 rail track with plastic ties/ballast (Real Trak, Scale Trak, Fast Trak) could, possibly, be used; but you'd have to cut the straps on the underside of each piece which electrically tie the left running rail to the right running rail. Remember, you'd have to convert all of your rolling stock too. The wheels will short the left rail to the right rail. Starter set locomotives may not be the best to convert to 2 rail. They must have "can" motors to start off with. If they do have can motors, a better way may be to go "dead rail", that is, battery power. I am contemplating such a conversion for William's 44 ton switcher, which is otherwise a good model. Kadee couplers will go around very tight curves. If your model loco will go around the curve, Kadees will stay coupled. You must be sure to couple or uncouple on straightaways - which is good practice in any event
@@2railoscale thank you. I’m thinking I can just move the insulation on the third rail over to one of the other rails. Or, simply remove the metal ties completely. I’ve added wooden track ties that the I made to add some realism. Although the track would be very fragile if I get rid of the metal ties. I believe my locomotives all have can motors. I’ll have to check. Just pulled the trigger on 2 pairs of Kadees to experiment with. So many questions pop up as I continue with model railroading but these were the most pressing. My goal is to one day model the Santa Fe passing through San Bernardino and through the Cajon Pass. Thank you for your time and expertise. I look forward to more videos and tutorials.
Terry, I am saddened to hear about your situation. The layout was well on its way to being fabulous. I wish I had the room for it. I would definitely accept your gracious offer so that I could continue your wonderful work. I do hope that someone claims it so that the dumpster doesn't get the victory. Thanks for taking us with you as you remember this great work in progress.
Thank you. I'd like to think that it would have been fabulous. I was working on scenery landforms that would have extended above and below track level. Layouts built flat cannot get this "negative relief". I've also studied scenery colors for a long time and large expanses of Woodland Scenics products were not in the cards.
@@2railoscale Sounds wonderful. That type of scenery was in a few of the modeler's layouts you showcased.
Your commentary presents someone with a very positive outlook-- considering your acceptance of the dismantling process of your impressive Layout. I can only imagine the "take your breath away" feeling you got when descending your stairwell into the basement revealing your custom bridge abutments and river scene! I'm sure that's a vivid image in your mind's eye (without the photo/slide). You can certainly "see" the completed scenery to the floor below the Tray River Viaduct too.
A Layout design, like yours, using a curved (masonite) backdrop to exclude unnatural right angles was just one of your "must-haves" I'm sure. Would you have mounted photo backdrops on each of the panels-- or added a painted perspective beyond a "blue sky" alone? I'd guess you may have also considered "vertical scenery" like we've seen on the installation of the A&O RR out west that O Scale National attendees visited?
Thanks for your kind comments. It was my intent to use photo backdrops wherever possible. I have worked out a process for doing them and when I was in Virginia I was only 4 hours away from the area that I modeled, so I could photograph the actual scenery. Can't get more realistic than that! I do not think of myself as very artistic, so drawing/painting them is out of the question.
The layout was quite the learning experience: I constantly surprised myself with skills I did not know that I had. My recommendation to one and all is build your layout - don't delay. You do not want to be like me and have to dismantle a layout before its time.
Hi Terry. I enjoy your videos. I’m a new comer to the hobby and I’d like to ask you some questions about 2 rail O scale.
Please ask, I'll answer to the best of my ability.
@@2railoscale thank you. I’ve been trying to figure out some economical ways to get into 2 rail. I own lots of Lionel O27 track, some Atlas 3 rail switches. My first question is, can I simply remove the center rail of my existing O27 track and use that? Will I run into any sort of issues?
The second question I have is, if you’re able to point me to any resources where I can learn about converting my locomotives into 2 rail. I own 2 Lionel starter set locomotives from the 90s and a new 0-8-0 Lionel locomotive. All of which are very simple in their design.
The final question is, what is the minimum curve I can get away with if I were to install Kadee couplers?
Thank you for your time.
@@DavidMartinez-se5vl You cannot just pull the center rail from O27 track. The ties are metal and they represent a dead short in 2 rail. The center rail is insulated and therefore does not short out on a 3 rail layout. Maybe the 3 rail track with plastic ties/ballast (Real Trak, Scale Trak, Fast Trak) could, possibly, be used; but you'd have to cut the straps on the underside of each piece which electrically tie the left running rail to the right running rail. Remember, you'd have to convert all of your rolling stock too. The wheels will short the left rail to the right rail.
Starter set locomotives may not be the best to convert to 2 rail. They must have "can" motors to start off with. If they do have can motors, a better way may be to go "dead rail", that is, battery power. I am contemplating such a conversion for William's 44 ton switcher, which is otherwise a good model.
Kadee couplers will go around very tight curves. If your model loco will go around the curve, Kadees will stay coupled. You must be sure to couple or uncouple on straightaways - which is good practice in any event
@@2railoscale thank you. I’m thinking I can just move the insulation on the third rail over to one of the other rails. Or, simply remove the metal ties completely. I’ve added wooden track ties that the I made to add some realism. Although the track would be very fragile if I get rid of the metal ties.
I believe my locomotives all have can motors. I’ll have to check.
Just pulled the trigger on 2 pairs of Kadees to experiment with. So many questions pop up as I continue with model railroading but these were the most pressing. My goal is to one day model the Santa Fe passing through San Bernardino and through the Cajon Pass. Thank you for your time and expertise. I look forward to more videos and tutorials.