Thanks Richard. I’m a 10 year Amsoil Dealer with a lot of customers in the tree cutting and golf course industry that this video you made will help educate them more! I have one tree cutting client using the Saber at a 90:1 and he’s loving it.
So after watching several of your videos on Ultra oil and this one with Amsoil Saber I decided to switch to the Amsoil, you proved it right here. I run Amsoil in my Ford diesel, my tractor, my skid steer as well as my Ducati 1098 and F4 MV Agusta so why not my chain saws? I like everything I have read about Amsoil and my experience with it has been nothing but good. Oil is cheaper than metal.
I’ve been running bel-ray h1-r at 40:1 happy with the results so far. Also run the vp mix oil same ratio. Only ran a few tanks of the Stihl oil. I’ll never go back.
I'm doing g a 044 oiler mod this morning and then I'll hopefully cut some 36" or little bigger oak trunk. Tht would be a great content for ur channel. Stihl oiler mod step by step. I may do it on the 460 if I get this one done right.
Been running saber in a lot of things. One that sticks out I’ve been running it at 80:1 in a 70cc quad with 25 gallons ran though and not one issue. Also been running same ratio in a 2016 562xp still running great. They claim 100:1 I know it scares people but I’m sure it’ll run things just fine.
@Richard Flagg Nice, that's what I see too from Stihl oil. I also see something very similar with husky. I've had really good luck with Shell Advance Snow Ultra 2, it's a full synthetic (snowmobile oil) but with newer sleds their exhaust valves also can't handle carbon build-up, so what ever detergents they use, it burns clean. Always a good coat of oil on mine when I pull them apart for porting etc.
A cool test for that 661 would be to run a good solid FD rated oil at 32:1 for a few gallons and see if it breaks up and cleans that piston crown. I run the older Red Armor at about 36:1. plenty of oil in lower case. A good tune on the rich side keeps them running clean.
@@richardflagg3084 Friend 372 xp oe still reaches 14 thousand revolutions max, how do I warm up why is this happening ??? Will +500 revolutions damage the saw? If the H nozzles are retracted, there are also 14,000 orots .........
Over time Saber or most FD rated oils would reduce the carbon given the higher detergent package in them. Possibly a little Seafoam would help clear it up sooner.
Also, after seeing Aaron A Lynch's farmertec 372xp teardown with 3 years of maxima castor 927 use at 32:1 I've been playing with it in a few of my saws😅 man that smell brings back memories!🤪
Wow that saber is impressive.. I just switched over all my saws, weedeaters, etc to saber 50:1. I used to use my 40:1 klotz super techniplate left over from the 4 wheelers but I was getting a lot of carbon on top of the piston. You’ve mentioned you run schaffers, I’d be curious to see how that stuff performs.
I've heard about that blend of Klotz, but never had any first hand experience with it. I'd put my boat oil up against anything, but it's my saw and my choice. I've been asked a bunch to test some Motul 800.
I ran a whole gallon of my old Mercury outboard oil mixed at about 40:1 in my old Stihl 029. Never ever had a problem. Wasn't until many years later after signing up on the forums did I hear that it was supposedly bad for outdoor power equipment. Lol
@@richevy5224 I know you do. That's where I got my wisdom from. Julian did a video years ago and it's hard to deny the obvious. Yes it's for boats, but it does an exceptional job as a chainsaw lubricant. Just my .02
Interesting. I run HP ultra with 95 octane fuel here in Australia and my pistons are all clean as and plenty of oil in the cranks. I run 38-40:1 and I run stuff hard and never had these issues? Just interesting. Maybe it's a fuel and how it's used thing??
I’ll have to make a video pulling my jug off my 661 had it for a few years pulling a 36” bar. I’ve only ran vp premix at 50:1 the last time I pulled it off I was surprised how clean and how much oil was left over.
The problem is modern two stroke oil especially amsoil saber oil doesn’t have the additives in there like other four stroke oils have. That’s why no matter how good of a two stroke oil you use like amsoil you still get scuffing on piston skirts and discolouration. That’s why I use a sae30 break in oil for the first run with a 25:1 mix. Then mobil1 10w30 with a 40:1 mix in my two stroke engine. When I did a tear down on it, it was the same as when I put it together. No wear, no scuffing. It was good as new.
If that's an HD2 filter (I don't think it is), like one on my 461, it filters particles larger than 15 micron or so. I filled it with water with my finger over the screw hole. NO water comes through the filter, perhaps due to surface tension in the filter fabric. Sprayed with purple cleaner, let it sit, blast the outside and inside (separately) with water and it looks like new. I don't see how any larger, oily or gritty material can get past this filter, unless it's not sealing properly with the cover on.
@@richardflagg3084 After reading Redline’s 2 stroke info, I ordered their Redline All Sports 2 stroke oil. I’ll probably chunk the rest of my Stihl Ultra.
I realize that you like the Husky filter but the Stihl probably has twice the surface area with the tight pleats. Would love to see an air flow test. Vacuum cleaner, plastic tube, solid ball of some sort could make a nice test fixture ... in your spare time :-) Or maybe mine.
I don't argue about the amount of filter media, it would likely flow more when clean. Like I mentioned, the pleats are sooo tight they catch and hold debris. My concern is that in commercial work, flow would suffer after a full day or two of cutting. Then not be able to do much more than knock it out..
This is the most important evidence of how an oil performs, and I’m happy to hear good things about Sabre since I just bought some to mix at 40:1. I’m new to your channel, running a Stihl 038 Magnum in stock form with a 20” bar. Any reason to mix stronger than 40:1? What oils do you recommend? Thanks, great videos!!!
I think 32:1 would only be necessary when milling/ slabbing logs. In most any other application 40:1 should be fine. Saber performs better than most oils at 40:1 from what I've seen. It's also sold by the quart making it cheaper than any of the premeasured oils.
@@richardflagg3084 It’s strange they don’t sell Red Armor in quart size, I don’t like paying double for small packaging. A local garage sells Sabre by the quart at “preferred” price which makes me very happy!
Those results look right on with what I've seen of ultra and saber at 50:1! Out of curiosity, when I purchased my stihl fs 70r this spring I went ahead and got a gallon of motomix to run through it and a new blower (I also added 10.3ml hp ultra to the motomix for around a 44:1 mix) and after the gallon, there's no carbon buildup with a fair amount of oil film after looking through plug holes, intake and exhaust ports🤔 strange, considering how dirty and "dry" ultra runs in gasoline! Thanks again for sharing👍🏻
@@richardflagg3084 the plastastic ryobi gas jet fan. I already own a husqvarna and an echo blower, both of which I've been very happy with! But I just couldn't resist the temptation when HD had them marked down to $99😯🤦♂️
I tried STIHL oil for a short time, and did not like the results in my saws or snowmobiles.. I have been slowly changing over to Red Armor oil in my vintage saws, and so far it has proven to be excellent. I used Bardahl VBA for years, with no carbon or lubrication problems, but it hasn't been available for years, and I am just about out of my stash. The VBA was a little smokey in the thicker mixes. There is virtually no smoke from the Red Armor. It will be interesting to see how the Red Armer performs over time in comparison.
The only complaint I've heard about Red Armor is the price. It is a great oil. Depending on your needs It's a little cheaper by the pint and if you can justify it, the gallon jug will save you a ton. Spend a couple of bucks on a decent graduated measuring cup and start saving big!
I always buy oil by the gallon, as it is a lot cheaper that way. I did a video a while back talking about the prices of oils. Buying the small bottles is a complete rip off. I have an excellent measure to make sure I have the correct amount of oil for what I am doing. I am interested more in performance than cost, as I am not a pro, and usually use about 3 to4 gallons of oil a year. @@richardflagg3084
My boss wife has a BR600 and I noticed the valves are noisy here and there with Stihl oil. I have the 800x , Always on Ultra for last 3yr. I'm switching to Saber. I'll start at 50.1 and see how she does. I know this blower. I know how long it runs to the T per tank blowing leafs
All my saws look exactly the same, black carbon!….. I’ve just started using Motorex 2T. This is the only one I could find in a motorcycle shop. Now my saws look wet after one tank. I’m sending away for some Amsoil, very soon.
Rich nice oil conparison, these long time customer usage saws say it all. Nice to see the intervals when in for repair.👍 These may say the better story. I wonder how a logging saw would stack up, could she burn off even the lower quality oil due to longer WOT and longer usage between starts?
Dirt bike rider chiming in here. My KTM 300 went 550 hrs before showing signs of the lower-end needing rebuild using Amsoil Saber. I won many races on the crank before the 550 hr rebuild. My buddy with the same bike using off the shelf oil at the moto shop only went 250 hrs and his bike almost blew up. Sloppy crank! Never raced once, trail riding only. Amsoil Saber makes a huge difference no doubt.
Well Richard, you've convinced me and I have seen enough to pull my head out of the bull's ass. I've been running Ultra for a long time with no problems that I could see, but i'm not inside my saws. Seeing all of these oil video's you've been doing has been eye opening and I've been seeing other channels saying the same things about Ultra. I have an Echo dealer right down the road from the Sthil dealer and I think I"m gonna give some Red Armor a try. Only Question is, should I stick to the recommended 50:1 or should I bump it a little richer to 40:1? Just found your channel and subbed, love your no B.S approach it's appreciated.
I bought a bunch of this ultra when I bought a new saw because they double the warranty. Not knowing any better I was running it! Anyway I decided to run this Stihl Ultra in a cheap blower that I don’t care about. Anyway I had some 40-1 Stihl mix, at (least I was smart enough to not mix 50-1) and a gallon of some quicksilver PWC oil. I ended up adding a ton of that oil to the mix I didn’t measure just dumped a few oz’s into the blowers tank before filling with the Stihl mix. I’d estimate probably a 8 to 1 mix. After running about 10 tanks of fuel through this blower (it doesn’t smoke at all if you can believe that) I pulled the plug and to my horror it was clean like no oil whatsoever looked like a 4 stroke plug! This got me curious so I pulled the crankcase cover off and there was a ton of oil in it (I’d say 2 or 3 tablespoons in a 30cc blower). The piston is beautiful not a scratch soaked in oil yet no carbon. The combustion chamber only has light carbon coating and the exhaust is bone dry and clean other than a light coating of ash. Don’t know what to make of this I wouldn’t try it in a expensive saw in a million years. The blower never idles except for 30 seconds before shutdown and literally runs full throttle continuously for an hour or so then gets refilled and repeated. I can only assume the pwc oil is not doing anything for the top end since it’s for water cooled jet skis and the Stihl oil is lubing the top end? I’m serious it doesn’t smoke at all and we’re talking a 40-1 Stihl mix then mixed probably 8-1 with quicksilver PWC oil.
Just calling balls and strikes here. I'm a Stihl guy too. I managed to find some time to trash talk that air filter. They really could have done better.....
@@richardflagg3084 well you're going to have carbon with any oil but my personal experience it seems to be better than the standard STIHL oil. But I agree with the air filter. I like my 046 2 stage filter. Again great content! 👍 🍻 Try some Redline oil.
In my humble opinion if your gonna own a stihl just get the max flow for it. In the long run your gonna save yourself some hastle and money in the future.
Ultra is good But depending on what you're using it in You're going to have a lot of carbon build up Like the exhaust. That proves it's a good oil And improves that the epa is a bunch of jerks😂
Use the good old Stihl oil in the orange container and your equipment will last forever. My 12 Stihl tools, some 25 years old in heavy use, are daily proof of that.
That's the gist of the oil videos. Ultra will burn well under the right circumstances, but there are other quality oils that are more forgiving if they are not run "properly".
Thanks Richard. I’m a 10 year Amsoil Dealer with a lot of customers in the tree cutting and golf course industry that this video you made will help educate them more! I have one tree cutting client using the Saber at a 90:1 and he’s loving it.
So after watching several of your videos on Ultra oil and this one with Amsoil Saber I decided to switch to the Amsoil, you proved it right here. I run Amsoil in my Ford diesel, my tractor, my skid steer as well as my Ducati 1098 and F4 MV Agusta so why not my chain saws? I like everything I have read about Amsoil and my experience with it has been nothing but good. Oil is cheaper than metal.
I'm running the red armor right now, seems to be pretty clean so far.
I’ve been running bel-ray h1-r at 40:1 happy with the results so far. Also run the vp mix oil same ratio. Only ran a few tanks of the Stihl oil. I’ll never go back.
I'm doing g a 044 oiler mod this morning and then I'll hopefully cut some 36" or little bigger oak trunk. Tht would be a great content for ur channel. Stihl oiler mod step by step. I may do it on the 460 if I get this one done right.
Been running saber in a lot of things. One that sticks out I’ve been running it at 80:1 in a 70cc quad with 25 gallons ran though and not one issue. Also been running same ratio in a 2016 562xp still running great. They claim 100:1 I know it scares people but I’m sure it’ll run things just fine.
@Richard Flagg
Nice, that's what I see too from Stihl oil. I also see something very similar with husky.
I've had really good luck with Shell Advance Snow Ultra 2, it's a full synthetic (snowmobile oil) but with newer sleds their exhaust valves also can't handle carbon build-up, so what ever detergents they use, it burns clean. Always a good coat of oil on mine when I pull them apart for porting etc.
A cool test for that 661 would be to run a good solid FD rated oil at 32:1 for a few gallons and see if it breaks up and cleans that piston crown. I run the older Red Armor at about 36:1. plenty of oil in lower case. A good tune on the rich side keeps them running clean.
Smart
This saw won't be seeing anymore FB rated oil. Lol!!! I've got my 661c nearly complete and will do some more testing.
@@richardflagg3084 Friend 372 xp oe still reaches 14 thousand revolutions max, how do I warm up why is this happening ??? Will +500 revolutions damage the saw? If the H nozzles are retracted, there are also 14,000 orots .........
If FD oil sucks that bad that it needs to be run at 32:1 to be “adaquate” why run it?
@@mrxlh I mentioned that to see if it would clean the damage that was already done.
mixing percentage you used with the sabre?
Along with the Motul 800 you could test the Motul 710, it’s FD rated.
L'ho testato io il migliore motul 710 grandioso
Would switching to Saber clean things up is my question?
Over time Saber or most FD rated oils would reduce the carbon given the higher detergent package in them. Possibly a little Seafoam would help clear it up sooner.
Also, after seeing Aaron A Lynch's farmertec 372xp teardown with 3 years of maxima castor 927 use at 32:1 I've been playing with it in a few of my saws😅 man that smell brings back memories!🤪
Wow that saber is impressive.. I just switched over all my saws, weedeaters, etc to saber 50:1. I used to use my 40:1 klotz super techniplate left over from the 4 wheelers but I was getting a lot of carbon on top of the piston. You’ve mentioned you run schaffers, I’d be curious to see how that stuff performs.
I've heard about that blend of Klotz, but never had any first hand experience with it. I'd put my boat oil up against anything, but it's my saw and my choice. I've been asked a bunch to test some Motul 800.
I ran a whole gallon of my old Mercury outboard oil mixed at about 40:1 in my old Stihl 029. Never ever had a problem. Wasn't until many years later after signing up on the forums did I hear that it was supposedly bad for outdoor power equipment. Lol
@@richevy5224 Ask Scott Kunz, he'll tell you the truth.
@@richardflagg3084 I know Scott. I know he is good with the Shaefers.
@@richevy5224 I know you do. That's where I got my wisdom from. Julian did a video years ago and it's hard to deny the obvious. Yes it's for boats, but it does an exceptional job as a chainsaw lubricant. Just my .02
Interesting. I run HP ultra with 95 octane fuel here in Australia and my pistons are all clean as and plenty of oil in the cranks. I run 38-40:1 and I run stuff hard and never had these issues? Just interesting. Maybe it's a fuel and how it's used thing??
I’ll have to make a video pulling my jug off my 661 had it for a few years pulling a 36” bar. I’ve only ran vp premix at 50:1 the last time I pulled it off I was surprised how clean and how much oil was left over.
What oil do you recomend, I'll order some? I'm currently stihl and red armor.
Most all of the FD rated oils will do just fine. Red Armor, Husqvarna XP+, Saber seem to be a little better.
The problem is modern two stroke oil especially amsoil saber oil doesn’t have the additives in there like other four stroke oils have. That’s why no matter how good of a two stroke oil you use like amsoil you still get scuffing on piston skirts and discolouration. That’s why I use a sae30 break in oil for the first run with a 25:1 mix. Then mobil1 10w30 with a 40:1 mix in my two stroke engine. When I did a tear down on it, it was the same as when I put it together. No wear, no scuffing. It was good as new.
If that's an HD2 filter (I don't think it is), like one on my 461, it filters particles larger than 15 micron or so. I filled it with water with my finger over the screw hole. NO water comes through the filter, perhaps due to surface tension in the filter fabric. Sprayed with purple cleaner, let it sit, blast the outside and inside (separately) with water and it looks like new.
I don't see how any larger, oily or gritty material can get past this filter, unless it's not sealing properly with the cover on.
What’s your opinion on the Tru fuel premixed. No non ethanol to be found here
Don't have a lot of experience with the Tru Fuel, but I really like the VP and Red Armor premix fuels.
I’m almost through my free pack of Stihl Ultra, thinking of trying Redline 2 Stroke, ever try it?
Not yet....
@@richardflagg3084 After reading Redline’s 2 stroke info, I ordered their Redline All Sports 2 stroke oil. I’ll probably chunk the rest of my Stihl Ultra.
That stihl ultra would be even worse risk 32:1 or 40:1 possibly because of the carbon?
I've run STIHL ultra ever since it came out. 50:1 with 89 rec fuel. Never had a problem. Just saying.
@@richardfuerst5286 cool man run it if you want. Nobody is telling you what to run
@@cajun3197 How many hours do you get out of a saw? Do you run them every day?
@@Woodysworksaws I build saws for people who do. They get years bub
Also I'm a retired STIHL tech so I may be a little biased
I realize that you like the Husky filter but the Stihl probably has twice the surface area with the tight pleats. Would love to see an air flow test. Vacuum cleaner, plastic tube, solid ball of some sort could make a nice test fixture ... in your spare time :-) Or maybe mine.
I don't argue about the amount of filter media, it would likely flow more when clean. Like I mentioned, the pleats are sooo tight they catch and hold debris. My concern is that in commercial work, flow would suffer after a full day or two of cutting. Then not be able to do much more than knock it out..
The sthil manual warns you if you use any oil other than Sthil you must use a 30/1 mix.
I will run the amsoil in my saw.i like watching your show.
This is the most important evidence of how an oil performs, and I’m happy to hear good things about Sabre since I just bought some to mix at 40:1. I’m new to your channel, running a Stihl 038 Magnum in stock form with a 20” bar. Any reason to mix stronger than 40:1? What oils do you recommend? Thanks, great videos!!!
I think 32:1 would only be necessary when milling/ slabbing logs. In most any other application 40:1 should be fine. Saber performs better than most oils at 40:1 from what I've seen. It's also sold by the quart making it cheaper than any of the premeasured oils.
@@richardflagg3084 It’s strange they don’t sell Red Armor in quart size, I don’t like paying double for small packaging. A local garage sells Sabre by the quart at “preferred” price which makes me very happy!
Those results look right on with what I've seen of ultra and saber at 50:1!
Out of curiosity, when I purchased my stihl fs 70r this spring I went ahead and got a gallon of motomix to run through it and a new blower (I also added 10.3ml hp ultra to the motomix for around a 44:1 mix) and after the gallon, there's no carbon buildup with a fair amount of oil film after looking through plug holes, intake and exhaust ports🤔 strange, considering how dirty and "dry" ultra runs in gasoline! Thanks again for sharing👍🏻
Richard needs to test Aspen fuel it's alkylate fuel or just pure gasoline so is Stihl Motomix
Which blower did you get?
@@richardflagg3084 the plastastic ryobi gas jet fan. I already own a husqvarna and an echo blower, both of which I've been very happy with! But I just couldn't resist the temptation when HD had them marked down to $99😯🤦♂️
Bought a quart of moto-mix and added about 12 cc of the Stihl Ultra, for about 28 to 1, for the Zenoah G430RC generator engine.
I tried STIHL oil for a short time, and did not like the results in my saws or snowmobiles.. I have been slowly changing over to Red Armor oil in my vintage saws, and so far it has proven to be excellent. I used Bardahl VBA for years, with no carbon or lubrication problems, but it hasn't been available for years, and I am just about out of my stash. The VBA was a little smokey in the thicker mixes. There is virtually no smoke from the Red Armor. It will be interesting to see how the Red Armer performs over time in comparison.
The only complaint I've heard about Red Armor is the price. It is a great oil. Depending on your needs It's a little cheaper by the pint and if you can justify it, the gallon jug will save you a ton. Spend a couple of bucks on a decent graduated measuring cup and start saving big!
I always buy oil by the gallon, as it is a lot cheaper that way. I did a video a while back talking about the prices of oils. Buying the small bottles is a complete rip off. I have an excellent measure to make sure I have the correct amount of oil for what I am doing. I am interested more in performance than cost, as I am not a pro, and usually use about 3 to4 gallons of oil a year. @@richardflagg3084
i tried amsoil sabre in my stihl stuff (2 backpack blowers and a km130r). ran ok but one of the backpack blowers did not like it at all (BR600)
Have you had the valves adjusted recently? What ratio did you run the Amsoil?
@@richardflagg3084 yes I do the valves regularly and replace the gasket. ran it at 50:1
My boss wife has a BR600 and I noticed the valves are noisy here and there with Stihl oil. I have the 800x , Always on Ultra for last 3yr. I'm switching to Saber. I'll start at 50.1 and see how she does. I know this blower. I know how long it runs to the T per tank blowing leafs
All my saws look exactly the same, black carbon!….. I’ve just started using Motorex 2T. This is the only one I could find in a motorcycle shop. Now my saws look wet after one tank. I’m sending away for some Amsoil, very soon.
Rich nice oil conparison, these long time customer usage saws say it all. Nice to see the intervals when in for repair.👍
These may say the better story. I wonder how a logging saw would stack up, could she burn off even the lower quality oil due to longer WOT and longer usage between starts?
I run Amsoil Sabre in all of our 2 stroke equipment and NEVER had a failure most at 100-70:1. Have thousands of hours combined on those Echos.
Dirt bike rider chiming in here. My KTM 300 went 550 hrs before showing signs of the lower-end needing rebuild using Amsoil Saber. I won many races on the crank before the 550 hr rebuild. My buddy with the same bike using off the shelf oil at the moto shop only went 250 hrs and his bike almost blew up. Sloppy crank! Never raced once, trail riding only. Amsoil Saber makes a huge difference no doubt.
Well Richard, you've convinced me and I have seen enough to pull my head out of the bull's ass. I've been running Ultra for a long time with no problems that I could see, but i'm not inside my saws. Seeing all of these oil video's you've been doing has been eye opening and I've been seeing other channels saying the same things about Ultra. I have an Echo dealer right down the road from the Sthil dealer and I think I"m gonna give some Red Armor a try. Only Question is, should I stick to the recommended 50:1 or should I bump it a little richer to 40:1? Just found your channel and subbed, love your no B.S approach it's appreciated.
50:1 to rich on the oil will caus eit to build up carbon
On my brother's recommendation I switched to Amsoil Saber and in addition to better oili g my saw feels snappier!!
Love it Richard.
Have you ever tried VP Full synthetic? Its FD rated and goes for about $6 for 16oz right at Walmart.
I need to test that one too. I have some experience with it and seems to be another top shelf oil.
$10 now...........sheeeesh
I bought a bunch of this ultra when I bought a new saw because they double the warranty. Not knowing any better I was running it! Anyway I decided to run this Stihl Ultra in a cheap blower that I don’t care about. Anyway I had some 40-1 Stihl mix, at (least I was smart enough to not mix 50-1) and a gallon of some quicksilver PWC oil. I ended up adding a ton of that oil to the mix I didn’t measure just dumped a few oz’s into the blowers tank before filling with the Stihl mix. I’d estimate probably a 8 to 1 mix. After running about 10 tanks of fuel through this blower (it doesn’t smoke at all if you can believe that) I pulled the plug and to my horror it was clean like no oil whatsoever looked like a 4 stroke plug! This got me curious so I pulled the crankcase cover off and there was a ton of oil in it (I’d say 2 or 3 tablespoons in a 30cc blower). The piston is beautiful not a scratch soaked in oil yet no carbon. The combustion chamber only has light carbon coating and the exhaust is bone dry and clean other than a light coating of ash. Don’t know what to make of this I wouldn’t try it in a expensive saw in a million years. The blower never idles except for 30 seconds before shutdown and literally runs full throttle continuously for an hour or so then gets refilled and repeated. I can only assume the pwc oil is not doing anything for the top end since it’s for water cooled jet skis and the Stihl oil is lubing the top end? I’m serious it doesn’t smoke at all and we’re talking a 40-1 Stihl mix then mixed probably 8-1 with quicksilver PWC oil.
This is how I'm going to run for a bit. Mix the stihl ultra into a better oil in 2 gallon batches.
My goodness that stihl filter is packed full 🤦🏼♂️
Thought you'd like that.
You running down my STIHL ultra oil again? 😫
Just calling balls and strikes here.
I'm a Stihl guy too. I managed to find some time to trash talk that air filter. They really could have done better.....
@@richardflagg3084 well you're going to have carbon with any oil but my personal experience it seems to be better than the standard STIHL oil. But I agree with the air filter. I like my 046 2 stage filter. Again great content! 👍 🍻 Try some Redline oil.
@@richardflagg3084 It’s a shame that it’s 2022 and Stihl still hasn’t figured out how to keep fines from hitting the piston…..
In my humble opinion if your gonna own a stihl just get the max flow for it. In the long run your gonna save yourself some hastle and money in the future.
Try testing Aspen fuel or Stihl Motomix it's alkylate fuel or just pure gasoline take care 😁 Richard
I'd like to see that test also with alkylate fuel mixed with ultra or super.
@@6900pilot me too
That 395 runs Sabre at 40:1 not 50:1
Amsoil saber is AMAZING!!!
Probably has more to do with the carb tune
Klotz Bēnol at 40:1 baby! Nothing smells better and it always treated my 250R good
Ultra is good But depending on what you're using it in You're going to have a lot of carbon build up Like the exhaust. That proves it's a good oil And improves that the epa is a bunch of jerks😂
The EPA is filled with lots of pagan mystics who couldn't pour piss out of boot.
And that is @ 50:1 with the Sabre!
Use the good old Stihl oil in the orange container and your equipment will last forever. My 12 Stihl tools, some 25 years old in heavy use, are daily proof of that.
Very True!!
Amsoil simply rules!
Ask the butcher 😂😂😂..preach the truth brother 🤙🏻🪓😎
Preach it Rich!!!!!!!!!
No shouting you down here when you're preaching good
Just trying to balls and strikes like I see em"
I'll bet the owner of Husky praises Saber, but uses Walmart oil in his $50 000 truck.
He's smarter than the average bear. I wouldn't bet on that.
walmart oil..is pretty damn good.....
Preach the truth
Tell the Ultra customer to switch and show him the Amsoil Husqvarna or use Echo Red Armor that's not too bad
That's the gist of the oil videos. Ultra will burn well under the right circumstances, but there are other quality oils that are more forgiving if they are not run "properly".
The blade on the Stihl is upside down, anyone can see that’s why the oil sucks…
Ooofff you called it a blade.....
@@richardflagg3084 isn’t that what all the cool kids are calling them now???? lol….