I’ve got a Stihl Pro 036 saw that’s 22 yrs old, always ran Saber oil @ 80:1 from day1. Never had an issue with fouling, coking, wear, etc., cut approx 7 cords per year. Run it in ALL my 2 stroke stuff. Highly recommended. Burns clean with maximum protection, never had a failure.
Richard...My son is a professional tree climber and I can always tell the quality of ownership of the many companies he has worked for by how their employees treat the equipment. It is obvious this owner has trained his employees well and by mixing his own oil he never has to worry about someone making a mistake and straight gassing a saw. If I ever ran a tree company I would do like the different Dutch yacht builders I visited many times. They require their employees to purchase their own tools from the company at wholesale prices and if they lose them, misplace them, steal them a new one is deducted from their pay that day. It is amazing how well their tools are maintained and it shows in the quality of the yachts they build.
A saw with basic maintenance will last almost forever. Sharp chain, good fuel/oil and air filter cleaning. I have two saws that I purchased in 1995 (Husky 262 and Stihl 046) that are still used in our commercial tree service.
My ms260 is probably 20 yrs old, ran amsoil saber 50-1 since it was new. Runs like a top, piston looks great through the exhaust. Great little firewood saw!
I’ve been using Saber since 2010 and still have the same blower that runs really good. I upgraded to a Stihl trimmer in 2015 and I’ve only changed the plug and cleaned the arrestor that really didn’t need it. I’m sold on Saber and will always use it. Also, have only used ethical free for the last 3 years and never had any fuel related issues prior. Like you said, all about using food oil and taking care of your equipment.
I mill logs , I run the holzfforma clones , 395 , 660 ,660 with big bore kit . I run amsoil saber at 40 :1 . Have no issues with carbon build up , nice oil film over all the parts , my buddy runs it at 80:1 . He's an amsoil rep .
It's amazing what basic maintenance can do in terms of longevity. With my Echo strimmer, it's pretty much been: 1. Make sure the fuel is the right mixture. 2. Clean out the air filter from time to time. 3. Grease the driveshaft and the grease fitting once a year. It has never needed to go to the shop. My blower did need a carb adjustment though, but otherwise has been easy enough to maintain. Saws need a little more maintenance, but it still isn't extreme.
I was about to say Saber while listening but you confirmed that. My Stihl Ultra still sits in a closet thanks to comments from a YT guy and a good local mechanic. And in the past year, I have some Amsoil sources within 15 minutes and ethanol free 90 oct just a bit farther away. Hope my 261 looks that good at half that age.
Hi R..another good one I don't know how I missed it. I've watched so many I may have forgot (Old)..thank you for what your doing for all of us again. I hope one day we'll meet.
@RichardFlagg I've got a 400c just like your test saw. Brand new never cut with it yet.. would u go with Saber at 40 or 50:1 or Motul 800 off-road at 40 or 50:1? Thanks for all the hard work of testing breaking down and putting back together and repeating. U got an amazing channel and I've learned a lot.. thanks and merry Christmas 🎄🎁..
Nicely done video. It's like I'm standing next to you at your bench watching. 👍 Most interesting saw repair channel on you tube. 😊👍👍 Pat from northwest WI.
I have used all kinds of oil in my saws from valvoline and amalie to 40 weight diesel engine oil and I always mix it at 20:1 ratio and never had carbon build up or fouled plugs. I have done it this way for over 25 years and thats how old my newest saw is and never blew up any of them. I use about 25 to 30 gallons of gas per winter cutting fire wood and usually change spark plugs every year but they dont really need it. any oil is good
i work for a guy that does tree removal and other than the ms461 i think all other saws are 5+ years old with no major issues but he does regular maintenance and cleaning of the saws. only saw he has had issue with recently after nearly 10 yeas of service was his MS201T. none of the stihl dealers seem to actually be able to fix it correctly lately. they just blame fuel/filters/sparkplug or last time they said it needed minor carb tuning but on the first test run you could tell it was out of tune since it would stall at idle and had a slight hesitation before it would throttle up. almost tempted to try getting some of the tools i am missing to try trouble shooting it. i am guessing it likely has a bad seal or gasket but i am guessing the stihl dealers have been too lazy to actually check since it is a lot of work to check.
Run Amsoil on all my 2 strokes 50 -1 to 45=1 was running it at 40=1 and Had a brand new Johnsred 2253 a red 550 xp had a vaf air leak and when they tore it apart to fix it said 40-1 was ti much with the amsoil that was 10 years ago 50-1 is plenty with it
I started at 32 to one with Saber and it was too much so I immediately mixed the next cans at 40 to one but it’s obvious now it’s safe to just do 50 to one. A buddy of mine‘s been running it at 50 to one for years and he has a saw for me to look at, and I’d be happy to share what it looks like
@ the butthead never gave it to me. I am currently running red armor 40 to 1. I have only broken down my 661 and it was very clean. Minimal carbon on the piston top. Cleaned up easy
Ive ran the old echo/shindaiwa power blen (green colour) for years and years, never had any probs, then I couldn't get that here in uk . So switched to motul 800 2t, though I've found that it gums stuff up at 50:1. Especially hedge cutters etc, seems better in saws, think it be would great on ported saw ran hard. So been running the 710 2t and that seems to be running a lot cleaner, it is a lot thinner oil so been running bit higher like 45-48:1 but still runs clean
Motul 800 2t has a pretty high flash point of 485F. Hedge cutters usually don't run at wide open throttle long enough to keep the engine at full operating temp. The 710 has a flashpoint of 309F and hence the better burn. That's only one factor but I hope it makes sense. They are both JASO "FD" rated. Good on you for testing both to see which is better for your needs.
@richardflagg3084 Well, I run saws more, though I haven't ported any of them yet, only muffler Mods. Well, I have ported my 2511 and a shinny 452s. I haven't had too many issues running 800 2t in saws. But I've run the 710 and still seem to leave a nice oil film still. Yeah, I had echo 2620 failure running it on the 800. Plugged the cat up🤣. Like you say with higher flash, it's not the ideal for the hedge cutters and trimmers that use half throttle a lot
I found this video because I have an original 261 CM that is nearly unused. And I was trying to figure out why they change the cylinder and it had me worried. I was convincing myself there was something wrong with the old design, but after seeing this not anymore. Yes I will be buying AMS oil by the case for sure now 😂
Ive run everything from Motul to Evinrude and I've never seen less wear or coking than with Red Armor. Smells like Balls o Fire fish bait and same color but stuff looks new w/zero scoring or carbon even with a slightly rich tune
The biggest reason I picked saber over red armor was the smell of the smoke. RA was a little irritating and saber wasn't. Both seem to be damn fine oils.
Thank you Rich for all of the time and work that you put into making these informative videos. I have found more helpful information here than anywhere else. I have just purchased a new Stihl MS261 with adjustable carburetor which has the plastic limiters/stops on the HI LO adjustment screws. I think I want to run it on sabre at 40-1. Do you know if I am going to run into a lean problem with saber that I cannot adjust without having to remove plastic limiters/stops I am trying to avoid voiding my factory warranty. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Maybe remove and reinstalled limiters? Just run 45-1 or 50-1? Maybe you would recommend a different oil. I would really like to know your opinion or recommendation
Love the saber, but l did have the piston out of my echo trimmer that was bought new july 2020 and have only ran saber 80:1 until recently went to 40:1 because of your vids. And that piston had tons of coking on the exhaust side. I was shocked when l pulled the jug and saw that. (Pulled jug bc l saw some coking through exhaust port) would upload pic if yt would let me. I try to run it wot as much as possible. It was slightly rich from echo, fouled a couple plugs, (tuned it this spring) so l wonder if that had anything to do with the coking. I will continue to use saber and amsoil products, this is not me bashing them at all. My 9010 blower looks like new through the exhaust port last l looked a couple months ago, had that for a couple years.
I've had a lot of Echo products over the years. I think some of the coking buildup on the exhaust side is due to the catalytic converter in the muffler retaining so much heat. I ran an SRM230 I bought brand new for 9 years before I sold it, and while I never fouled a plug or plugged up the exhaust port, I'd check it every couple of years. I ran a lot of saber in it the past few years I had it, and it cleaned it up a bit but it still had this really dark varnish buildup on the exhaust side of the piston. I got that engine so hot the clutch cover gave me a nasty arm burn more than once. That's about the only thing I can think of as to why yours and mine were like that. I bought a new SRM266 and gutted the catalyst after running a couple tanks through it, it also was beginning to coke up. Excessive heat is the only thing I can think of since the oils being used are high quality.
@@ethanmiller3935 Not sure, never used the red armor. That SRM230 got a ton of TCW3 oil, a lot of the Echo powerblend X and whatever else I was given or got cheap over the years early on in its life. It wasn't until the last few years I had it I started running better oils. I sure ran it hard, it never complained a bit.
@@MattsRageFitGarageIts a good oil as well. I use it in some of our older equipment because l was mixing saber at 80:1. My brother runs it in his shindaiwa trimmer, and our churches shindawia also gets it. The shindys and my echo are all the same motor (2620/262s). I wouldnt hesitate to run it if l were out of saber.
@@ethanmiller3935 A local farm and ranch store sold Saber by the quart for like $12.49 for years, they quit carrying it but still carry everything else for some reason. I bought a gallon of the Husqvarna XP+ to use since it seems to be about the next best thing from watching Richard's videos, plus I got a good deal on the gallon. I did notice over the years, that machines I had that I could see visible carbon buildup on the piston looking through the sparkplug hole, that using 40:1 for a few tanks the carbon would disappear. My dads Echo SRM-2510 ran the crappiest cheapest oil at 32:1 for years, it had a lot of carbon buildup on the top of the piston and 40:1 of various brands of synthetic 2 cycle oils cleaned that thing out spotless in pretty short order. I was very surprised by that.
Why has Stihl gone from the black air filters to the white and fleece. I don't know if theirs any difference in the micron values but the black filters seem to be more robust. I got a tree guy that I patch his saws but he has an older ms261 and I swear it's the original.😊 I finally talked him into buying a new one. I can't find any of the black ones anymore. Stihl probably stopped making them because they last too long. 😊
I think it shows the dirt better making it easier to sell another $20-35 filter. Once that newer white filter material gets dirty, there's no amount of air, degreaser/cleaner that will make it white again. I don't believe once it's cleaned that it affects flow or filtration. More important to keep an eye on the rubber seal where it mates to the filter base. Just my .02
It burns just as clean at 40:1. I've got a couple of customers that use it at that ratio. Buy it by the quart if you can find it locally Usually sells for $15-20/qt.
Hi Richard, fantastic channel. Been watching for over a year, just curious on your thoughts about the 056 Magnum II? Recently picked up one, cylinder & piston are absolutely unbelievably pristine! SEM coil so far appears bad, I'll dig a little deeper to verify. Bought from an estate sale, bottle upon bottles of Amsoil littered the garage shelving, and blue tinted fuel found in saw! Would you recommend tracking down the Stihl Sem coil or would the Proline do justice? About a month or so ago you did a video on carb rebuild, and found 'red' tip needle. In case you're still wondering, there are now or never were 'red' tip needles manufactured by either Walbro or Zama, it is just the beautiful chemistry that occurs because of the wonderful ethononic fuel our government forces us to consume. When I tear saws apart, I take pictures for the customer to review. I have some pic's of carb needles 1/2 red &1/2 black! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. No matter how much I think I know, when watching others show their skills, I always realize how little I know! Keep up the fantastic work!
Goes to show that if one person is doing all the mix gas which in this case is the owner and he care's about his equipment by using a good oil and consistency in said mix ratio along with a healthy dose of common sense, mean's there's no reason why it can't last the long haul. That goes for any power tool treat it like crap and soon enough that's what you have. I know guy's that can break sledge hammer's in half (I'm not talking about the handle) almost every day they're on a job site, that goes for some company owners as well they'll get the job done but cost's them dearly in $$ along with a lot of carnage along the way. Good to see you give credit to those that do care and; take care.
There's guys that can break anvils, and rip starter ropes out of equipment without fail every time. I don't know how they do it, I've purposely tried breaking starter ropes on junk equipment that was getting scrapped and couldn't do it. The only two starter ropes I broke in my life were about 50 years old, and that was because the rope fell apart from it being rotten.
I'd stick with VP for canned fuel. I believe it's a much higher quality fuel. Their mix oil is good too, but they don't make it if I understand correctly. It may be a subsidiary of the parent company. They've got a hella following for their canned fuel in the racing community.
As unbiased as I can say this, It's far and away the best two stroke oil on the market. If you can purchase Saber locally it's usually around $15-20 per quart, making it half the cost of Red Armor by the pint. That's just a bonus.
Never ran amsoil 2stroke oil but i ran their oil in some of my 4stroke stuff. Pit bikes, dirt bikes and one 450 race quad. Smoked the pit bike and grenaded the 450. Couldnt get that oil out of my other stuff fast enough. Never ran it again. Blew up another 450 on motul synthetic and went back to conventional oil. No more problems after that. That said, I do run motul 800 offroad im my saws now. Have also ran belray h1r and i liked it.
How do you get along with Motul 800 in saws? My Stihl has some weird color on the exhaust but I ranned husqvarna xp before, like 10 gallons of it so that was probably at fault. Could have been tuned too rich from the factory, who knows.
@1u5t1n I just started running the motul. Probably less that a couple gallons so far. I run it in all my OPE, saws, weedeaters, and a blower. They all start and run better than they ever did on stihl oil. I had previously ran belray h1r and I liked it but had some wet oil around my exhaust like it wasn't burning completely. The h1r has a hight Flashpoint. The guy from hotsaws101 channel runs the motul and puts lots and lots of hours on saws so I ordered a quart to try. I'll update in about a year lol.
@@SixOFord yeah, h1r and motul 800 road racing (wich is what I run) have high flashpoints. Some people say that a chainsaw doesn't get hot enough to burn those oils. I may switch to 800 off road, since road racing might be overkill at 40:1. I was contemplating to buy some unmixed alkylate fuel and use the motul with that, but the prices are kinda prohibitive. I guess I'll spend a buck extra here and there and see hot it goes.
@1u5t1n I still mix 50:1. That's all the guy on the channel I referenced runs. His original build on a 462 has many many an hour on it and and is still going strong. I figure with the quality oil the factory ratio is fine. Look at all the people running crazy ratios with the scamsoil. I'm not brave enough to run anything I've got at 100:1 lol.
Yes it can be run at 80:1. Long term I've seen a little wear on the piston skirt. I'd recommend bringing it up to 50:1. It will still burn just as clean and offer a little more lubrication.
Any synthetic oil can be run at some crazy ratios if the tune is right, there's nothing special about Saber (reminder that Amsoil lost some lawsuits with people that ran 100:1 for the reason I'll mention at the end), but you'll get more piston polishing/wear compared to 50:1, lets not even talk about the reduced bearing life. As you already can tell, it still takes hundreds of hours for that to happen, so for a homeowner it probably doesn't matter if the bearings/p&c last only 500 hours instead of 3000+ on 32:1. The main issue with 80:1 or 100:1 is that if the engine's gas/air mixture is just A HAIR lean (a very cold morning lets say and you don't adjust the jets quick enough), your piston and cylinder is scored quickly from running it lean and hot with an already reduced lubrication per gas amount. That being said nothing wrong with Amsoil Saber if ran 50:1 or richer. It's as good as most other synthetic motocross oils.
@@RailPRO793as far as I know, Amsoil buys the base oil from a big company might as well be Exxon and then puts in their aditives. Don't take my word for it tho. Maybe someone who works in the field will explain.
I’ve got a Stihl Pro 036 saw that’s 22 yrs old, always ran Saber oil @ 80:1 from day1. Never had an issue with fouling, coking, wear, etc., cut approx 7 cords per year. Run it in ALL my 2 stroke stuff. Highly recommended. Burns clean with maximum protection, never had a failure.
Fantastic saws. I have and use 3 of em. We run 44:1 with klotz r50, and the saws run cool, clean, wet, and happy!
Richard...My son is a professional tree climber and I can always tell the quality of ownership of the many companies he has worked for by how their employees treat the equipment. It is obvious this owner has trained his employees well and by mixing his own oil he never has to worry about someone making a mistake and straight gassing a saw.
If I ever ran a tree company I would do like the different Dutch yacht builders I visited many times. They require their employees to purchase their own tools from the company at wholesale prices and if they lose them, misplace them, steal them a new one is deducted from their pay that day. It is amazing how well their tools are maintained and it shows in the quality of the yachts they build.
Accountability is a big word nowadays.
@timl.9990 Not your average customer right there. Good on him tho.
I’ve used Saber for years… only oil I’ll ever use.
A saw with basic maintenance will last almost forever. Sharp chain, good fuel/oil and air filter cleaning. I have two saws that I purchased in 1995 (Husky 262 and Stihl 046) that are still used in our commercial tree service.
Great to see there's still owners out there that actually care for their equipment!
Can't argue with those results👍🏻
Only a few Sir, only a few. I'm trying to do my part locally and here online. Sometimes you can lead a horse to water, sometimes not.
@PurpleNovember
Perhaps let South Africa know that!
Amsoil 40:1 going in everything since I ran outta Schaeffer’s. I’m happy with it.
Your better off ẅith Schaeffer's.
My ms260 is probably 20 yrs old, ran amsoil saber 50-1 since it was new. Runs like a top, piston looks great through the exhaust. Great little firewood saw!
I never used the aspen fuel when everyone was trying to push it, just premium fuel and saber. I’ve never had the carb off it.
I’ve been using Saber since 2010 and still have the same blower that runs really good. I upgraded to a Stihl trimmer in 2015 and I’ve only changed the plug and cleaned the arrestor that really didn’t need it. I’m sold on Saber and will always use it. Also, have only used ethical free for the last 3 years and never had any fuel related issues prior. Like you said, all about using food oil and taking care of your equipment.
Can’t ask for more than that! Cheers for bringing us along!
I mill logs , I run the holzfforma clones , 395 , 660 ,660 with big bore kit . I run amsoil saber at 40 :1 . Have no issues with carbon build up , nice oil film over all the parts , my buddy runs it at 80:1 . He's an amsoil rep .
Everything i have put amsoil in, (air cooled), runs cooler. The damn stuff is good oil. My generacs, my harley, my exmark, my chainsaws, everything.
Good stuff as always. I only hear great reviews from Saber.
It's amazing what basic maintenance can do in terms of longevity. With my Echo strimmer, it's pretty much been:
1. Make sure the fuel is the right mixture.
2. Clean out the air filter from time to time.
3. Grease the driveshaft and the grease fitting once a year.
It has never needed to go to the shop. My blower did need a carb adjustment though, but otherwise has been easy enough to maintain.
Saws need a little more maintenance, but it still isn't extreme.
I was about to say Saber while listening but you confirmed that. My Stihl Ultra still sits in a closet thanks to comments from a YT guy and a good local mechanic. And in the past year, I have some Amsoil sources within 15 minutes and ethanol free 90 oct just a bit farther away. Hope my 261 looks that good at half that age.
Hi R..another good one I don't know how I missed it. I've watched so many I may have forgot (Old)..thank you for what your doing for all of us again. I hope one day we'll meet.
Rich nice info on the oil used along with a ratio.
The original 261’s are rock solid everyday all day pro saws. 💪🏼
Agree. Also old Husky 51 are built like Pro saws and last well.
@RichardFlagg I've got a 400c just like your test saw. Brand new never cut with it yet.. would u go with Saber at 40 or 50:1 or Motul 800 off-road at 40 or 50:1? Thanks for all the hard work of testing breaking down and putting back together and repeating. U got an amazing channel and I've learned a lot.. thanks and merry Christmas 🎄🎁..
Sabers good oil. Proofs in the pudding. Nice info.
Indeed.
Like we say in mx. Use good oil and keep your air filter clean and oiled. Once it starts sucking dirt it's down hill from there 🔧🔧
Nicely done video.
It's like I'm standing next to you at your bench watching. 👍
Most interesting saw repair channel on you tube. 😊👍👍
Pat from northwest WI.
Thanks! You've been watching for a long time. You're on opeforum as well yes?
Awesome diagnosis Richard! Good fuel & good oil is essential!🤩🤩🤩🤩
I have used all kinds of oil in my saws from valvoline and amalie to 40 weight diesel engine oil and I always mix it at 20:1 ratio and never had carbon build up or fouled plugs. I have done it this way for over 25 years and thats how old my newest saw is and never blew up any of them. I use about 25 to 30 gallons of gas per winter cutting fire wood and usually change spark plugs every year but they dont really need it. any oil is good
The air filter is the life of a saw.
I have that exact saw setting on the bench. I haven't checked the decop. Lazy off idle. Then lean on wide open.
i work for a guy that does tree removal and other than the ms461 i think all other saws are 5+ years old with no major issues but he does regular maintenance and cleaning of the saws. only saw he has had issue with recently after nearly 10 yeas of service was his MS201T. none of the stihl dealers seem to actually be able to fix it correctly lately. they just blame fuel/filters/sparkplug or last time they said it needed minor carb tuning but on the first test run you could tell it was out of tune since it would stall at idle and had a slight hesitation before it would throttle up. almost tempted to try getting some of the tools i am missing to try trouble shooting it. i am guessing it likely has a bad seal or gasket but i am guessing the stihl dealers have been too lazy to actually check since it is a lot of work to check.
Run Amsoil on all my 2 strokes 50 -1 to 45=1 was running it at 40=1 and Had a brand new Johnsred 2253 a red 550 xp had a vaf air leak and when they tore it apart to fix it said 40-1 was ti much with the amsoil that was 10 years ago 50-1 is plenty with it
Thought my Husqvarna XP oil was blue, but not 100%. Started using Red Armor and not Stihl.
XP+ is a really good oil. Just mix it at 40:1. It doesn't have the viscosity to leave a really good film in the crankcase at 50:1.
@@richardflagg3084 Motul 710 ok oil for cheinsaw ?
@@Okinawa1914Sorry, I haven't tested that oil.
@@richardflagg3084 Whay not ,tested Motul 710
I started at 32 to one with Saber and it was too much so I immediately mixed the next cans at 40 to one but it’s obvious now it’s safe to just do 50 to one. A buddy of mine‘s been running it at 50 to one for years and he has a saw for me to look at, and I’d be happy to share what it looks like
Well, how does it look?
@@johnm8891 I’m waiting on him to give me the saw still 🙂
How does it look?
@ the butthead never gave it to me. I am currently running red armor 40 to 1. I have only broken down my 661 and it was very clean. Minimal carbon on the piston top. Cleaned up easy
Proof by action is better than a thousand words. 😃👍
Ive ran the old echo/shindaiwa power blen (green colour) for years and years, never had any probs, then I couldn't get that here in uk . So switched to motul 800 2t, though I've found that it gums stuff up at 50:1. Especially hedge cutters etc, seems better in saws, think it be would great on ported saw ran hard. So been running the 710 2t and that seems to be running a lot cleaner, it is a lot thinner oil so been running bit higher like 45-48:1 but still runs clean
Motul 800 2t has a pretty high flash point of 485F. Hedge cutters usually don't run at wide open throttle long enough to keep the engine at full operating temp. The 710 has a flashpoint of 309F and hence the better burn. That's only one factor but I hope it makes sense. They are both JASO "FD" rated. Good on you for testing both to see which is better for your needs.
@richardflagg3084 Well, I run saws more, though I haven't ported any of them yet, only muffler Mods. Well, I have ported my 2511 and a shinny 452s. I haven't had too many issues running 800 2t in saws. But I've run the 710 and still seem to leave a nice oil film still. Yeah, I had echo 2620 failure running it on the 800. Plugged the cat up🤣. Like you say with higher flash, it's not the ideal for the hedge cutters and trimmers that use half throttle a lot
Motul 710 2t oil,Huswarna Xp 2t oil 👌 4/1
Mr. Flagg’s advice + AMSOIL Saber = your OPE lasting a long time
Thanks, good info…
Looks blue like my amsoil saber. Very curious to know the ratio they run
Yes. Saber at 50:1
Saber is good stuff. I’ve got some ultra sitting on my shelves you can have 😂
@@codysiegrist4503 🤣🤣🤣
I found this video because I have an original 261 CM that is nearly unused. And I was trying to figure out why they change the cylinder and it had me worried. I was convincing myself there was something wrong with the old design, but after seeing this not anymore. Yes I will be buying AMS oil by the case for sure now 😂
They changed the cylinder fins to get it more cool on the exhaust side. Now, they should get it more cool at the intake side.
Ive run everything from Motul to Evinrude and I've never seen less wear or coking than with Red Armor. Smells like Balls o Fire fish bait and same color but stuff looks new w/zero scoring or carbon even with a slightly rich tune
The biggest reason I picked saber over red armor was the smell of the smoke. RA was a little irritating and saber wasn't. Both seem to be damn fine oils.
RA does have a distinct "aroma".
Good stuff Rich! Keep it coming!
thanks brother!
Thank you Rich for all of the time and work that you put into making these informative videos. I have found more helpful information here than anywhere else. I have just purchased a new Stihl MS261 with adjustable carburetor which has the plastic limiters/stops on the HI LO adjustment screws. I think I want to run it on sabre at 40-1. Do you know if I am going to run into a lean problem with saber that I cannot adjust without having to remove plastic limiters/stops I am trying to avoid voiding my factory warranty. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Maybe remove and reinstalled limiters? Just run 45-1 or 50-1? Maybe you would recommend a different oil. I would really like to know your opinion or recommendation
Love the saber, but l did have the piston out of my echo trimmer that was bought new july 2020 and have only ran saber 80:1 until recently went to 40:1 because of your vids. And that piston had tons of coking on the exhaust side. I was shocked when l pulled the jug and saw that. (Pulled jug bc l saw some coking through exhaust port) would upload pic if yt would let me. I try to run it wot as much as possible. It was slightly rich from echo, fouled a couple plugs, (tuned it this spring) so l wonder if that had anything to do with the coking. I will continue to use saber and amsoil products, this is not me bashing them at all. My 9010 blower looks like new through the exhaust port last l looked a couple months ago, had that for a couple years.
I've had a lot of Echo products over the years. I think some of the coking buildup on the exhaust side is due to the catalytic converter in the muffler retaining so much heat. I ran an SRM230 I bought brand new for 9 years before I sold it, and while I never fouled a plug or plugged up the exhaust port, I'd check it every couple of years. I ran a lot of saber in it the past few years I had it, and it cleaned it up a bit but it still had this really dark varnish buildup on the exhaust side of the piston. I got that engine so hot the clutch cover gave me a nasty arm burn more than once. That's about the only thing I can think of as to why yours and mine were like that. I bought a new SRM266 and gutted the catalyst after running a couple tanks through it, it also was beginning to coke up. Excessive heat is the only thing I can think of since the oils being used are high quality.
@@MattsRageFitGaragel never considered that, but that makes a lot of sense. Makes me wonder how their red armor oil handles it.
@@ethanmiller3935 Not sure, never used the red armor. That SRM230 got a ton of TCW3 oil, a lot of the Echo powerblend X and whatever else I was given or got cheap over the years early on in its life. It wasn't until the last few years I had it I started running better oils. I sure ran it hard, it never complained a bit.
@@MattsRageFitGarageIts a good oil as well. I use it in some of our older equipment because l was mixing saber at 80:1. My brother runs it in his shindaiwa trimmer, and our churches shindawia also gets it. The shindys and my echo are all the same motor (2620/262s). I wouldnt hesitate to run it if l were out of saber.
@@ethanmiller3935 A local farm and ranch store sold Saber by the quart for like $12.49 for years, they quit carrying it but still carry everything else for some reason. I bought a gallon of the Husqvarna XP+ to use since it seems to be about the next best thing from watching Richard's videos, plus I got a good deal on the gallon. I did notice over the years, that machines I had that I could see visible carbon buildup on the piston looking through the sparkplug hole, that using 40:1 for a few tanks the carbon would disappear. My dads Echo SRM-2510 ran the crappiest cheapest oil at 32:1 for years, it had a lot of carbon buildup on the top of the piston and 40:1 of various brands of synthetic 2 cycle oils cleaned that thing out spotless in pretty short order. I was very surprised by that.
Why has Stihl gone from the black air filters to the white and fleece. I don't know if theirs any difference in the micron values but the black filters seem to be more robust. I got a tree guy that I patch his saws but he has an older ms261 and I swear it's the original.😊 I finally talked him into buying a new one. I can't find any of the black ones anymore. Stihl probably stopped making them because they last too long. 😊
I think it shows the dirt better making it easier to sell another $20-35 filter. Once that newer white filter material gets dirty, there's no amount of air, degreaser/cleaner that will make it white again. I don't believe once it's cleaned that it affects flow or filtration. More important to keep an eye on the rubber seal where it mates to the filter base. Just my .02
Valvoline 2-Stroke Marine Motor Oil............can you test it?
Would the saber be ok at 40:1 or would it ash up too bad? The 8oz bottlea they sell would be perfect for a 2.5 gallon can at 40:1.
It burns just as clean at 40:1. I've got a couple of customers that use it at that ratio. Buy it by the quart if you can find it locally Usually sells for $15-20/qt.
@richardflagg3084 thanks! I'm making the switch! Love the videos by the way. Your doing gods work! 😆
Hi Richard, fantastic channel. Been watching for over a year, just curious on your thoughts about the 056 Magnum II? Recently picked up one, cylinder & piston are absolutely unbelievably pristine! SEM coil so far appears bad, I'll dig a little deeper to verify. Bought from an estate sale, bottle upon bottles of Amsoil littered the garage shelving, and blue tinted fuel found in saw!
Would you recommend tracking down the Stihl Sem coil or would the Proline do justice?
About a month or so ago you did a video on carb rebuild, and found 'red' tip needle. In case you're still wondering, there are now or never were 'red' tip needles manufactured by either Walbro or Zama, it is just the beautiful chemistry that occurs because of the wonderful ethononic fuel our government forces us to consume. When I tear saws apart, I take pictures for the customer to review. I have some pic's of carb needles 1/2 red &1/2 black!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. No matter how much I think I know, when watching others show their skills, I always realize how little I know! Keep up the fantastic work!
What is the best mix for chainsaw your smart iwill listening
Thank you, how long is this oil good? I see it for sale in gallon quantities. Thanks
how do you adjust past the factory limit on that exact type of carb ? can i just use allen key?
There should be videos on how to remove the limiter tabs. It may not be on this exact carb but the principle is the same.
Can the same mixture be used in leaf blower?
Goes to show that if one person is doing all the mix gas which in this case is the owner and he care's about his equipment by using a good oil and consistency in said mix ratio along with a healthy dose of common sense, mean's there's no reason why it can't last the long haul. That goes for any power tool treat it like crap and soon enough that's what you have. I know guy's that can break sledge hammer's in half (I'm not talking about the handle) almost every day they're on a job site, that goes for some company owners as well they'll get the job done but cost's them dearly in $$ along with a lot of carnage along the way. Good to see you give credit to those that do care and; take care.
There's guys that can break anvils, and rip starter ropes out of equipment without fail every time. I don't know how they do it, I've purposely tried breaking starter ropes on junk equipment that was getting scrapped and couldn't do it. The only two starter ropes I broke in my life were about 50 years old, and that was because the rope fell apart from it being rotten.
I see a lot of talk about home mix oils sad fuels, what your thoughts on true fuel or anything like that. I buy it for convenience.
I'd stick with VP for canned fuel. I believe it's a much higher quality fuel. Their mix oil is good too, but they don't make it if I understand correctly. It may be a subsidiary of the parent company. They've got a hella following for their canned fuel in the racing community.
Hay Richard honest question how do you feel it stacks up against red armor or husky XP?
I appreciate your real world test on oils. 👍🏼
As unbiased as I can say this, It's far and away the best two stroke oil on the market. If you can purchase Saber locally it's usually around $15-20 per quart, making it half the cost of Red Armor by the pint. That's just a bonus.
Have you found it to be necessary to replace the exhaust gasket every time you take the exhaust off a small engine?
Metal gaskets no, the fiber composite ones do get replaced if they are brittle.
Never ran amsoil 2stroke oil but i ran their oil in some of my 4stroke stuff. Pit bikes, dirt bikes and one 450 race quad. Smoked the pit bike and grenaded the 450. Couldnt get that oil out of my other stuff fast enough. Never ran it again. Blew up another 450 on motul synthetic and went back to conventional oil. No more problems after that.
That said, I do run motul 800 offroad im my saws now. Have also ran belray h1r and i liked it.
Uh huh….🙄
How do you get along with Motul 800 in saws? My Stihl has some weird color on the exhaust but I ranned husqvarna xp before, like 10 gallons of it so that was probably at fault.
Could have been tuned too rich from the factory, who knows.
@1u5t1n I just started running the motul. Probably less that a couple gallons so far. I run it in all my OPE, saws, weedeaters, and a blower. They all start and run better than they ever did on stihl oil. I had previously ran belray h1r and I liked it but had some wet oil around my exhaust like it wasn't burning completely. The h1r has a hight Flashpoint.
The guy from hotsaws101 channel runs the motul and puts lots and lots of hours on saws so I ordered a quart to try. I'll update in about a year lol.
@@SixOFord yeah, h1r and motul 800 road racing (wich is what I run) have high flashpoints. Some people say that a chainsaw doesn't get hot enough to burn those oils. I may switch to 800 off road, since road racing might be overkill at 40:1.
I was contemplating to buy some unmixed alkylate fuel and use the motul with that, but the prices are kinda prohibitive.
I guess I'll spend a buck extra here and there and see hot it goes.
@1u5t1n I still mix 50:1. That's all the guy on the channel I referenced runs. His original build on a 462 has many many an hour on it and and is still going strong. I figure with the quality oil the factory ratio is fine. Look at all the people running crazy ratios with the scamsoil. I'm not brave enough to run anything I've got at 100:1 lol.
I run Sabre 80;1 in blower & trimmer. Semi-commercial. No problems for last 4 years plus.
Yes it can be run at 80:1. Long term I've seen a little wear on the piston skirt. I'd recommend bringing it up to 50:1. It will still burn just as clean and offer a little more lubrication.
Any synthetic oil can be run at some crazy ratios if the tune is right, there's nothing special about Saber (reminder that Amsoil lost some lawsuits with people that ran 100:1 for the reason I'll mention at the end), but you'll get more piston polishing/wear compared to 50:1, lets not even talk about the reduced bearing life. As you already can tell, it still takes hundreds of hours for that to happen, so for a homeowner it probably doesn't matter if the bearings/p&c last only 500 hours instead of 3000+ on 32:1.
The main issue with 80:1 or 100:1 is that if the engine's gas/air mixture is just A HAIR lean (a very cold morning lets say and you don't adjust the jets quick enough), your piston and cylinder is scored quickly from running it lean and hot with an already reduced lubrication per gas amount.
That being said nothing wrong with Amsoil Saber if ran 50:1 or richer. It's as good as most other synthetic motocross oils.
@@em4703I'd like to buy you a beer some day.
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First thing I do on my smaller saws is delete that decompression valve
I’m running saber at 60:1 in my yz250 dirt bike.
The life of a saw is the air filter.
Low hanging fruit where?
😂😂😂😂
That is Husqvana oil in that saw. A step above Stihl. Red Armor rules!!
Good guess, but it's Amsoil Saber.
Blue oil is good oil…
Red Armor 50:1
So many blue mixes out there, its probably just orange bottle stihl mix
Gotta stay to the end. Amsoil Saber at 50:1.
Stihl oil is best
I suspect Saber is actually Mobil 1 rebranded as is Honda 2T
@@TheKraken2019 do tell
@@RailPRO793as far as I know, Amsoil buys the base oil from a big company might as well be Exxon and then puts in their aditives.
Don't take my word for it tho. Maybe someone who works in the field will explain.
Amsoil blends their own oils in house.
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