I took the stub axle out and used a slide hammer loaner from the local parts store. To use the slide hammer I made an extension out of some 1/2 threaded rod. I adapted the 5/8" NF thread to 1/2 NC by welding together a couple of nuts, 5/8 on one side and 1/2 on the other. I recently changed both front seals over the last few months and really appreciated your videos.
I have a 1999 GMC Suburban and the left seal is leaking again. I changed it back in 2012 and there’s currently about 85000 miles on the seal that is leaking. I think you did a great job of explaining and completing the repairs.
Awesome video. I think I found a great way to remove the axle. I used a ratchet strap to put tension on it and then just tapped twice and it popped loose. Someone who commented about putting string or something through the bolt hole to give tension gave me the idea.
If you can’t get the axle shaft out of the differential, check this out. I fought with mine using the slide hammer for hours with no luck. I finally bolted a ratchet strap to the axle flange and wrapped it around the outside of the steering knuckle, above the brakes. I tightened it up very tight, so it was under constant tension, pulling outward. Then, one smack on the face of the flange, the opposite direction, towards the differential. This compresses the C-clip and it popped out, first try.
i have a 94 and an 03 chev both need this done and i will def note this on the job im still not sure about the whole backlash thing but thank god for youtube lol
Put a pry bar behind it with some pressure and take a hammer and tap directly on the middle of the inner axle and it pops right out in a couple taps. Brother in law taught me that and it works like a charm every time
Good point, thanks for your suggestion. I tried that several years ago and it didn't work right away, but it might work for some. Others suggested using a plastic tree felling wedge, to get a more central pull. The dealers manual suggests a slide hammer with long extension. Thanks for stopping by!
Great video. After a few minutes of tapping, I tried prying in between the axle shaft and gear case while rotating the shaft, and it popped out pretty quickly. Seal came right out, new one in, and everything went back together seamlessly. I'm really starting to wonder if the 6 months of procrastination was worth the 15mm and 20 minutes it took.
Stub axle , slide hammer , or regular hammer , tie some twine or line to an empty bolt hole, pull on it, steady pressure rotating axle hitting it, dead blow.
I remember back 7 years :) mine was doing the same on my 02 2500hd but it was my fault for overfilling it so I check my manual and yes I filled it till it started to run back out and thats too high. Sure glad I didn't have to tear it apart. Cheers Dave .
Just a heads up if your running synthetic 75w90 that black vent cap might be your problem, gm redesigned it in mid 04 with a white version that allows for fluids beyond the original 80w90 conventional they originally used
On my civic, I installed a new axle seal wrong and it didn't leak. It was curved and I couldn't get it out. I ended up buying a new seal and I thought u could drive it in all the way to the inner lip. Drove it for a day, took it off with my fingers, reused it and installed it flush with some black rtv. Can the seal be still damaged from pushing it towards the inner lip?
So on install do you just put it in a twist? I hear people say put tension and tap then it comes out but isn’t there a c-clip? I’m confused about this.
The C clip can get pinched and twisted in a spot that makes it very difficult to remove. Ideally if the gap in the clip is at the bottom, it will be better centered and more likely to come out without mangling the clip or damaging the splines. Unfortunately you're doing it blind since you can't see the position of the clip when removing the axle. So, when you rotate the axle you're trying to use gravity to shift the position of the clip to permit the axle to more easily slide out.
I've done this 3 times and they've all leaked 3 different brands and the most recent is the worst leak I'm about to do again but I'm going with the gm seal this time but I noticed it's design is different. Curious after 2 yrs how yours is working?
@@spelunkerd good to know thank you after watching you pull your vac hose cap Went out and inspected it and it looks like it may actually be leaking from the bottom of the cap instead of the seal makes me wonder about the others I've changed never thought about that leaking. So il pull it tape it and give some time to see if that's the problem.
Awesome, was looking for front main on a 99 S Series with 4x4...lol, could NOT turn it off.. Now to think, my wife says i need to work on my "listening " skills.. 😂Gee Wizz
It's normally designed to move a little, which I think explains why this seal often fails. If the CV joint between that stub and the wheel were to begin failing, you could get excessive play at that location, too. When a CV joint fails you often get a clicking sound when you turn to the opposite side while driving slowly. As it fails you often find the boot is torn and grease that is inside gets thrown around, making a mess of the wheel well.
@@spelunkerd but i have no play on the other side.... it's solid.... no noises rn... but the boot is completely torn on the wheel side; still there, but torn
@@johnharrison5098 With a torn boot most mechanics would replace the CV joint, even if the slop in your axle is unrelated. I think they likely are related anyway. The debatable point is whether to go with an OEM joint or an aftermarket version. It's a fairly easy repair.
I am trying to find that axle breather can you point me in the right direction all I can find are the new white ones from chevy but they do not fit in my diff
All of these closed devices require some way to flatten out air pressure differences between inside and outside, so that when the air inside heats up it has some place to go. If a breather becomes blocked, that same air pressure will blow out seals. Breather tubes are typically small vacuum hoses that attach to a nipple at the top of the trapped air cavity, in a place where obstruction with oil or dirt is minimized. They are often pointed upward so that oil sprayed up into the tube will drip back down into the main chamber. They have a blind end cap with tiny holes that allow air to pass but not allow insects, water or dirt to easily enter. Most are about 1/4" black vacuum lines.
What I need is a way to find out what differential I have on my 02 suburban because I have a black front axle breather like you in this video but all I can find are the white ones and they do not fit in mine
@@butterham1234 GM identify their build fit with "RPO" codes, which are usually listed on a sticker in either the glove box or perhaps underneath the hood. Take a photo of the RPO code sticker and the VIN, and a parts tech at any dealership will be able to identify exactly which front diff you have. There are also RPO decoders online that are easy to use. That said, if all you need is a replacement breather hose, must guys would simply buy the correct size vacuum hose to fit on the nipple at a general parts store. I'll guess the ID will be somewhere in the 1/8" to 3/16", but if you have a piece of the old hose that would be even better. You're right, vacuum lines are usually black, they need to tolerate heat, oil, and road contaminants. Swap over the hardware including the cap, etc.
Us the locking tab supposed to be able to wiggle alittle bit when you touch it mine does need to know I'd this thing is messed up asap please and thanks need some advice.
If you're referring to the locking tab that holds the threaded adjusters in place, I wouldn't fiddle with that setting unless there's a clear need to do that. Those locking tabs are set at the factory to adjust preload of the side bearings AND backlash of the pinion gear. I did a two part video of how to adjust those settings in the rear diff of a Dodge Ram, where I was replacing clutch packs for a stock LSD. The same procedure is done here on the front diff, but the locking tabs are different. You need a dial indicator, torque wrench, and a few special tools. If you really need to adjust bearing preload and backlash, the locking tab is pried back, then you spin and torque the threaded adjusters, then bend the tab into place when the settings are correct on both sides. If you break a tab you may need to split the diff. It's easier to do with the diff on the bench.
On reading your description of the problem again, I'm not sure I've answered your question. If the tab itself wiggles a little, I wouldn't worry about that as long as it fits between two of those trapezoidal bumps of the threaded adjuster. The tabs themselves are like a cotter pin, simply preventing the threaded adjusters from backing out with the vibration of the truck. It's OK if the tab is a little loose as long as the threaded adjuster can't move much.
In 4 wheel drive vehicles the right front axle is very different because of the shift motor that locks the right axle when in four wheel drive. In this vehicle it is electrically actuated, older vehicles used a vacuum mechanism. I did a brief video of that over a decade ago, I'm sure there are better videos of that available now. Yes, there is a locking ring on the right side as well, if you need to go so far as to remove that shift motor. Those locking rings are used to exactly position the differential in the housing so ring gear backlash with the pinion gear meets spec.
Yes I think there is, visible as that orange stripe just after 3:45. I followed the dealer repair manual that recommended teflon tape and I didn't replace that O ring. It's still dry today, over 2 years later.
Good point! Indeed in the dealers repair manual they suggest that, but I discovered (in 2013) that my slide hammer won't fit in there. It attaches fine to the hub but the steering knuckle is in the way and I don't have a 4' extension to allow a straight pull through the knuckle. I wondered if some kind of vibrating air tool would jiggle the clip around to make it easier to find a neutral position. The instinct is to swing harder, but if the clip is off center you could bend it, perhaps making it even harder to center. The other thing that comes to mind is to use two pry bars, prying from both sides at the same time to prevent the hub from tilting sideways. When properly centered I was twice surprised at what little force is needed to tap it out. Recognizing this is difficult, GM suggested splitting the case in a TSB, nothing helpful from them.
@@spelunkerd Perhaps you could bolt up some length of chain to the axle stub and to the slide hammer to effectively make an extension? Just pull the slide hammer/chain taut before hammering.
@@ablackformula Good thought. My main concern is not to get frustrated and hit this too hard. You don't want to damage the clip inside, possibly bending the clip and making it even harder to remove. In the end, I'm two for two, and 15 minutes of patience each time has allowed me to avoid removing the case without causing any other issue. At no point did I swing the hammer any harder than shown in this video. It doesn't take much.
@@spelunkerd Understood and makes sense. I'm also unaware of how much force it would take to damage or cause runout in the flange. I keep picturing John Kelly from weber auto saying never hit this surface with a hammer! Patience is key!
I think I goofed the old seal wore a small groove in the shaft so that repair didn't last too long I should have brought them to a machine shop and had them weld and recut the shafts to spec😮 live and learn they say
Check with your parts store, you can buy sleeves that shift the position of the seal contact and give extra life to the shaft. Alternatively that shaft stub may not be very expensive, you might find one at a junk yard.
@@spelunkerd It's been quit a while but the best I can remember me and a helper used 2 pry bar's ( one on each side of the stub shaft - with light pressure prying out ) then hitting the shaft inward using hammer . I don't think I could get slid hammer on it . But it's like you said that clip has mind of it's own
Great videos Dave. Was looking for some guidance for a fix on a vehicle and thought I recognized you. This the same Dave that used to live in Lethbridge? If so, I hope all is well! Cheers, Archie.
Yup, that's me. Ha ha, small world, nice to see you again, Archie! We live in Victoria now. I see you're doing well, your family is growing up fast. The Suburban in the video came from Lethbridge, now closing in on 400,000 km. Cheers!
It's there to prevent the adjuster from spinning out of the position you want it in. Given how difficult it is to replace that locking nut, I'd be trying to twist it into such a position that the adjuster won't move. If it was my car I wouldn't drop the whole case just to replace the locking nut.
It depends a lot on what they have to do. If it is as easy as mine was, likely a couple hundred dollars. But if they have to remove the axle to split the case, it could be very expensive because of labor costs.
7 years ago, That's disgusting it should have lasted forever ha ha :-D That little T tab looked too easy to break, i imagine a little heat would have made it less likely to snap. But getting a tiny blowtorch to heat only the tab up would be hard to do.
I gave that a try a few years ago with my little 5 lb slide hammer, but with the knuckle and axle in the way I couldn't get a straight pull. That prompted me to get a slide hammer extender to allow it to be put through the axle hole in the knuckle, which might work a little better. How did you do it?
sorry but you are wrong about the seal. the part of the seal that has the spring that pulls the seal tight around the axle always goes on the inside so it is protected from the elements and doesn't rust. Once that spring rusts out that seal is useless. You won't find instructions about how to put a seal in the way you are describing in any college level automotive textbook.
You're right about the spring with most seals. However this is one of those double seals that have both inside and outside lips. It's not as simple as a single spring seal.
@@spelunkerd To me the seal you took out was installed backwards. The metal backing goes out so when you press or tap the seal in you are not hitting rubber. Also doesn't matter how many springs they also go in so they are protected from the elements by the metal backing plate,( water, salt, dust, dirt) and the oil or grease that the seal is holding in is slightly lubricating the lips of the seal that the spring is holding against the axle. Good video, but this seal business does not seem right to me at all.
@@edkay3601 I've been thinking about your remark about the location of a spring. Never once in my life have I encountered a situation where the spring was on the outside, so your general rule of thumb works fine. This seal has no visible spring on either side, so the rule of thumb doesn't apply. I did two videos of this seal on this Suburban, and the first video was done on this exact car that I bought new in 2000. The orientation of the seal in that first video is the way it came from the factory. At about 5:30 of that first video you can see the old seal taken out, complete with pry marks made by a screwdriver that I had inserted through the middle hole in the seal to pry it out. The screwdriver was prying on the inside lip of the seal, leaving witness marks on the metal that are irrefutable. The metal side was inside. So not only are you saying that I am wrong, you're also saying that GM itself is wrong, the factory doesn't know how to install their own seals. When you look at the seal you'll scratch your head. Are you so confident?
This two-video set was put together years ago, and at that time it was one of the first to do a deep dive into this stub shaft seal problem. Fast forward to 2024, and now I have found over a dozen videos going over the same pathway. Now there are many examples showing how this seal is oriented. Yup, my orientation is correct in this video, the metal side is inside.
@@spelunkerd putting the metal side in is correct for that year and thereoutbouts, but by the time 2011 or before came around GM realized that was a design flaw because on my 2011 silverado the metal goes out. this makes more sense for several reasons. Protects the lip of the seal from dirt, dust, water/salt etc., and allows some lubrication to get to the lip. Also when you install the seal you are not pressing or tapping on any rubber.
Lol you definitely put it in wrong 🤣 air side goes towards the tire the new seal you got says air side on the metallic side 🤣 don't speak on shit you don't know.
Nope, not on this car. I'm the original owner, it was like that from the factory. Other cars may be different, but this one is in the correct way. In the original video you can even see the pry marks made by the seal puller. Your car may be different.
You have me thinking about this. There was no label 'air side' on either the new or the old seals, and even in retrospect, frame by frame, there is no such label. There is a numerical stamp. Perhaps your part has such a label, and if so I would certainly follow the label. Perhaps there is variance from year to year. It seems very unlikely the factory would install mine backwards, and it is working fine since installation.
It is definitely in backwards. I will vouch for that. I also graduated from a very well respected technical school and have been a transmission, transfer case, and power train mechanic for some time and have done multiple like yours and many of them I have ran across installed wrong from factory and that doesn’t just lie with that in particular part. Cheers brother and happy wrenching. Good videos otherwise.
You guys commenting owe the author an apology. I just removed this seal. The old seal states airside on the rubber side, hence metal in. The new seal states airside on the metal side. I have a picture if you want to see it.
I took the stub axle out and used a slide hammer loaner from the local parts store. To use the slide hammer I made an extension out of some 1/2 threaded rod. I adapted the 5/8" NF thread to 1/2 NC by welding together a couple of nuts, 5/8 on one side and 1/2 on the other. I recently changed both front seals over the last few months and really appreciated your videos.
I have a 1999 GMC Suburban and the left seal is leaking again. I changed it back in 2012 and there’s currently about 85000 miles on the seal that is leaking. I think you did a great job of explaining and completing the repairs.
Awesome video. I think I found a great way to remove the axle. I used a ratchet strap to put tension on it and then just tapped twice and it popped loose. Someone who commented about putting string or something through the bolt hole to give tension gave me the idea.
Thanks man great idea, I think I put my bearing to far in....again, well 3rd time maybe a charm 😆
Awesome job, love the attention to detail, a job done right! Wish I had someone that did the quality of work that you do.
If you can’t get the axle shaft out of the differential, check this out. I fought with mine using the slide hammer for hours with no luck. I finally bolted a ratchet strap to the axle flange and wrapped it around the outside of the steering knuckle, above the brakes. I tightened it up very tight, so it was under constant tension, pulling outward. Then, one smack on the face of the flange, the opposite direction, towards the differential. This compresses the C-clip and it popped out, first try.
i have a 94 and an 03 chev both need this done and i will def note this on the job im still not sure about the whole backlash thing but thank god for youtube lol
that's a fun job to begin with but extra fun crawling in there with a camera:)
well explained throughout, Dave
It's nice to stop those pesky leaks, especially in this case. If that diff runs dry and let's loose it's going to be a big repair!
Put a pry bar behind it with some pressure and take a hammer and tap directly on the middle of the inner axle and it pops right out in a couple taps. Brother in law taught me that and it works like a charm every time
Good point, thanks for your suggestion. I tried that several years ago and it didn't work right away, but it might work for some. Others suggested using a plastic tree felling wedge, to get a more central pull. The dealers manual suggests a slide hammer with long extension. Thanks for stopping by!
@@spelunkerd maybe it’ll work now 7 years later now that the parts are looser lol
@@georgeholmes9851 : I used your tip today and it worked perfectly, thanks for the valuable information !
Thanks you for that comment! Worked for me after hitting it forever!
Great video. After a few minutes of tapping, I tried prying in between the axle shaft and gear case while rotating the shaft, and it popped out pretty quickly. Seal came right out, new one in, and everything went back together seamlessly.
I'm really starting to wonder if the 6 months of procrastination was worth the 15mm and 20 minutes it took.
Stub axle , slide hammer , or regular hammer , tie some twine or line to an empty bolt hole, pull on it, steady pressure rotating axle hitting it, dead blow.
Air hammer
The retaining ring can get worn . If it has a sharp edge it won't come out of the inner groove. If it's worn replace it.
I remember back 7 years :) mine was doing the same on my 02 2500hd but it was my fault for overfilling it so I check my manual and yes I filled it till it started to run back out and thats too high. Sure glad I didn't have to tear it apart. Cheers Dave .
Hey, Steve, thanks for stopping by! I don't know why they do it that way, you'd think they would locate the fill hole so it is hard to overfill.
If you add a stop leak or sealer, should that raise the ATF level too high?
Just a heads up if your running synthetic 75w90 that black vent cap might be your problem, gm redesigned it in mid 04 with a white version that allows for fluids beyond the original 80w90 conventional they originally used
I use a slide hammer when I do them. Imo it's quicker to take the wheel and upper ball joint loose than it is to tap and pull forever.
On my civic, I installed a new axle seal wrong and it didn't leak. It was curved and I couldn't get it out. I ended up buying a new seal and I thought u could drive it in all the way to the inner lip. Drove it for a day, took it off with my fingers, reused it and installed it flush with some black rtv. Can the seal be still damaged from pushing it towards the inner lip?
If you ever get a definitive answer on the c clip/ axle removal please update.. I could never find the correct way except to drop the transfer case
So on install do you just put it in a twist? I hear people say put tension and tap then it comes out but isn’t there a c-clip? I’m confused about this.
The C clip can get pinched and twisted in a spot that makes it very difficult to remove. Ideally if the gap in the clip is at the bottom, it will be better centered and more likely to come out without mangling the clip or damaging the splines. Unfortunately you're doing it blind since you can't see the position of the clip when removing the axle. So, when you rotate the axle you're trying to use gravity to shift the position of the clip to permit the axle to more easily slide out.
Thank you for a very clear and to the point video. You explain things well. Well done and thanks again.🔧⚙️
I've done this 3 times and they've all leaked 3 different brands and the most recent is the worst leak I'm about to do again but I'm going with the gm seal this time but I noticed it's design is different. Curious after 2 yrs how yours is working?
I still own the suburban and that axle remains dry sine the video was made.
@@spelunkerd good to know thank you after watching you pull your vac hose cap Went out and inspected it and it looks like it may actually be leaking from the bottom of the cap instead of the seal makes me wonder about the others I've changed never thought about that leaking. So il pull it tape it and give some time to see if that's the problem.
Informative video Dave and keep up the good work!
Awesome, was looking for front main on a 99 S Series with 4x4...lol, could NOT turn it off.. Now to think, my wife says i need to work on my "listening " skills.. 😂Gee Wizz
so what if the axle piece you pulled out has up\down ,side2side play where the wheel bounces on the smallest bump?
It's normally designed to move a little, which I think explains why this seal often fails. If the CV joint between that stub and the wheel were to begin failing, you could get excessive play at that location, too. When a CV joint fails you often get a clicking sound when you turn to the opposite side while driving slowly. As it fails you often find the boot is torn and grease that is inside gets thrown around, making a mess of the wheel well.
@@spelunkerd but i have no play on the other side.... it's solid.... no noises rn... but the boot is completely torn on the wheel side; still there, but torn
@@johnharrison5098 With a torn boot most mechanics would replace the CV joint, even if the slop in your axle is unrelated. I think they likely are related anyway. The debatable point is whether to go with an OEM joint or an aftermarket version. It's a fairly easy repair.
are these the same for 2500 and 3500 HD GMs?
No those are quite different.
I am trying to find that axle breather can you point me in the right direction all I can find are the new white ones from chevy but they do not fit in my diff
All of these closed devices require some way to flatten out air pressure differences between inside and outside, so that when the air inside heats up it has some place to go. If a breather becomes blocked, that same air pressure will blow out seals. Breather tubes are typically small vacuum hoses that attach to a nipple at the top of the trapped air cavity, in a place where obstruction with oil or dirt is minimized. They are often pointed upward so that oil sprayed up into the tube will drip back down into the main chamber. They have a blind end cap with tiny holes that allow air to pass but not allow insects, water or dirt to easily enter. Most are about 1/4" black vacuum lines.
What I need is a way to find out what differential I have on my 02 suburban because I have a black front axle breather like you in this video but all I can find are the white ones and they do not fit in mine
@@butterham1234 GM identify their build fit with "RPO" codes, which are usually listed on a sticker in either the glove box or perhaps underneath the hood. Take a photo of the RPO code sticker and the VIN, and a parts tech at any dealership will be able to identify exactly which front diff you have. There are also RPO decoders online that are easy to use. That said, if all you need is a replacement breather hose, must guys would simply buy the correct size vacuum hose to fit on the nipple at a general parts store. I'll guess the ID will be somewhere in the 1/8" to 3/16", but if you have a piece of the old hose that would be even better. You're right, vacuum lines are usually black, they need to tolerate heat, oil, and road contaminants. Swap over the hardware including the cap, etc.
Great video. Thanks
I have a 02 Silverado 2500HD. And just now I have a leak
Us the locking tab supposed to be able to wiggle alittle bit when you touch it mine does need to know I'd this thing is messed up asap please and thanks need some advice.
If you're referring to the locking tab that holds the threaded adjusters in place, I wouldn't fiddle with that setting unless there's a clear need to do that. Those locking tabs are set at the factory to adjust preload of the side bearings AND backlash of the pinion gear. I did a two part video of how to adjust those settings in the rear diff of a Dodge Ram, where I was replacing clutch packs for a stock LSD. The same procedure is done here on the front diff, but the locking tabs are different. You need a dial indicator, torque wrench, and a few special tools. If you really need to adjust bearing preload and backlash, the locking tab is pried back, then you spin and torque the threaded adjusters, then bend the tab into place when the settings are correct on both sides. If you break a tab you may need to split the diff. It's easier to do with the diff on the bench.
On reading your description of the problem again, I'm not sure I've answered your question. If the tab itself wiggles a little, I wouldn't worry about that as long as it fits between two of those trapezoidal bumps of the threaded adjuster. The tabs themselves are like a cotter pin, simply preventing the threaded adjusters from backing out with the vibration of the truck. It's OK if the tab is a little loose as long as the threaded adjuster can't move much.
Very informative video my truck is starting to leak from that plastic vent deal thing. im gonna have replace the seal and everything.
Thank you for your video. I recently replaced the actuator motor and I had some oil coming out from the hole. Is that normal ???
Which hole do you mean?
@@spelunkerd thanks for your reply. I'm referring about the location where it screws into the front differential
@@OSCARANDRES039 Yes, differential fluid lubricates the actuator motor so it will leak out when you open the actuator housing.
@@spelunkerd Thank so much for that reply!!👍👍🤗
With a two claw puller would work also
What about the right side axle is their a locking ring for the right side axle ?
In 4 wheel drive vehicles the right front axle is very different because of the shift motor that locks the right axle when in four wheel drive. In this vehicle it is electrically actuated, older vehicles used a vacuum mechanism. I did a brief video of that over a decade ago, I'm sure there are better videos of that available now. Yes, there is a locking ring on the right side as well, if you need to go so far as to remove that shift motor. Those locking rings are used to exactly position the differential in the housing so ring gear backlash with the pinion gear meets spec.
is there an o-ring for the vent tube cover?
Yes I think there is, visible as that orange stripe just after 3:45. I followed the dealer repair manual that recommended teflon tape and I didn't replace that O ring. It's still dry today, over 2 years later.
Just wondering if the stub axle would come out easier with a slide hammer and rotation? Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Good point! Indeed in the dealers repair manual they suggest that, but I discovered (in 2013) that my slide hammer won't fit in there. It attaches fine to the hub but the steering knuckle is in the way and I don't have a 4' extension to allow a straight pull through the knuckle. I wondered if some kind of vibrating air tool would jiggle the clip around to make it easier to find a neutral position. The instinct is to swing harder, but if the clip is off center you could bend it, perhaps making it even harder to center. The other thing that comes to mind is to use two pry bars, prying from both sides at the same time to prevent the hub from tilting sideways. When properly centered I was twice surprised at what little force is needed to tap it out. Recognizing this is difficult, GM suggested splitting the case in a TSB, nothing helpful from them.
@@spelunkerd Perhaps you could bolt up some length of chain to the axle stub and to the slide hammer to effectively make an extension? Just pull the slide hammer/chain taut before hammering.
@@ablackformula Good thought. My main concern is not to get frustrated and hit this too hard. You don't want to damage the clip inside, possibly bending the clip and making it even harder to remove. In the end, I'm two for two, and 15 minutes of patience each time has allowed me to avoid removing the case without causing any other issue. At no point did I swing the hammer any harder than shown in this video. It doesn't take much.
@@spelunkerd Understood and makes sense. I'm also unaware of how much force it would take to damage or cause runout in the flange. I keep picturing John Kelly from weber auto saying never hit this surface with a hammer! Patience is key!
Great job , ENJOYED !!
Thanks, Shawn!
Napper - not a sponser
Seen a napper store in perth Australia had a chuckle
I think I goofed the old seal wore a small groove in the shaft so that repair didn't last too long I should have brought them to a machine shop and had them weld and recut the shafts to spec😮 live and learn they say
Check with your parts store, you can buy sleeves that shift the position of the seal contact and give extra life to the shaft. Alternatively that shaft stub may not be very expensive, you might find one at a junk yard.
A lot of great tips .
Thanks! How do you get that stub shaft out? Slide hammer with a long extension? Any other thoughts?
@@spelunkerd It's been quit a while but the best I can remember me and a helper used 2 pry bar's ( one on each side of the stub shaft - with light pressure prying out ) then hitting the shaft inward using hammer . I don't think I could get slid hammer on it . But it's like you said that clip has mind of it's own
Great videos Dave. Was looking for some guidance for a fix on a vehicle and thought I recognized you. This the same Dave that used to live in Lethbridge? If so, I hope all is well! Cheers, Archie.
Yup, that's me. Ha ha, small world, nice to see you again, Archie! We live in Victoria now. I see you're doing well, your family is growing up fast. The Suburban in the video came from Lethbridge, now closing in on 400,000 km. Cheers!
Is this applicable to a 2010 silverado 1500?
It likely won't be identical but I've never worked on the 2010. In general, there are more similarities than differences for questions like this.
Lock tab adjust was broken when popped open , can I leave it like that or ?
It's there to prevent the adjuster from spinning out of the position you want it in. Given how difficult it is to replace that locking nut, I'd be trying to twist it into such a position that the adjuster won't move. If it was my car I wouldn't drop the whole case just to replace the locking nut.
Is it the same part number for the passenger side?
No, I don't think so. I get my local parts guy to look it up for me.
How much idle would this cost
It depends a lot on what they have to do. If it is as easy as mine was, likely a couple hundred dollars. But if they have to remove the axle to split the case, it could be very expensive because of labor costs.
7 years ago, That's disgusting it should have lasted forever ha ha :-D
That little T tab looked too easy to break, i imagine a little heat would have made it less likely to snap.
But getting a tiny blowtorch to heat only the tab up would be hard to do.
Use a slide hammer to pull the axle,much easier.
Nice. I did the right side on mine last year. Its leaking again, I thought I did everything properly. Oh well.
You installed it wrong air side goes Towards the tire this is a very common mistake.
Daniel W I redid it last month. I had it correct, new one is sealing
@@Asomesauc more like cheap garbage chinese parts.... Sadly, hard to avoid nowadays..
Are you able to hammer out the right side shaft like the left side ? Is their a locking ring on the right side
@@MC-ck9hn No, don't hammer it out. You will break it. Remove the actuator and remove the 4-5 bolts holding the right side housing on.
Slide hammer comes right out
I gave that a try a few years ago with my little 5 lb slide hammer, but with the knuckle and axle in the way I couldn't get a straight pull. That prompted me to get a slide hammer extender to allow it to be put through the axle hole in the knuckle, which might work a little better. How did you do it?
@@spelunkerd don't tighten the bolts down all the way it will let your slide hammer move from side to side and give you room to use it
Nice video, Suburban is made by GM not Chrysler. Lol
Ha ha, I didn't even notice the error until you pointed it out. I work on a Dodge all the time. Cheers.
sorry but you are wrong about the seal. the part of the seal that has the spring that pulls the seal tight around the axle always goes on the inside so it is protected from the elements and doesn't rust. Once that spring rusts out that seal is useless. You won't find instructions about how to put a seal in the way you are describing in any college level automotive textbook.
You're right about the spring with most seals. However this is one of those double seals that have both inside and outside lips. It's not as simple as a single spring seal.
@@spelunkerd To me the seal you took out was installed backwards. The metal backing goes out so when you press or tap the seal in you are not hitting rubber. Also doesn't matter how many springs they also go in so they are protected from the elements by the metal backing plate,( water, salt, dust, dirt) and the oil or grease that the seal is holding in is slightly lubricating the lips of the seal that the spring is holding against the axle. Good video, but this seal business does not seem right to me at all.
@@edkay3601 I've been thinking about your remark about the location of a spring. Never once in my life have I encountered a situation where the spring was on the outside, so your general rule of thumb works fine. This seal has no visible spring on either side, so the rule of thumb doesn't apply. I did two videos of this seal on this Suburban, and the first video was done on this exact car that I bought new in 2000. The orientation of the seal in that first video is the way it came from the factory. At about 5:30 of that first video you can see the old seal taken out, complete with pry marks made by a screwdriver that I had inserted through the middle hole in the seal to pry it out. The screwdriver was prying on the inside lip of the seal, leaving witness marks on the metal that are irrefutable. The metal side was inside. So not only are you saying that I am wrong, you're also saying that GM itself is wrong, the factory doesn't know how to install their own seals. When you look at the seal you'll scratch your head. Are you so confident?
This two-video set was put together years ago, and at that time it was one of the first to do a deep dive into this stub shaft seal problem. Fast forward to 2024, and now I have found over a dozen videos going over the same pathway. Now there are many examples showing how this seal is oriented. Yup, my orientation is correct in this video, the metal side is inside.
@@spelunkerd putting the metal side in is correct for that year and thereoutbouts, but by the time 2011 or before came around GM realized that was a design flaw because on my 2011 silverado the metal goes out. this makes more sense for several reasons. Protects the lip of the seal from dirt, dust, water/salt etc., and allows some lubrication to get to the lip. Also when you install the seal you are not pressing or tapping on any rubber.
Lol you definitely put it in wrong 🤣 air side goes towards the tire the new seal you got says air side on the metallic side 🤣 don't speak on shit you don't know.
Nope, not on this car. I'm the original owner, it was like that from the factory. Other cars may be different, but this one is in the correct way. In the original video you can even see the pry marks made by the seal puller. Your car may be different.
You have me thinking about this. There was no label 'air side' on either the new or the old seals, and even in retrospect, frame by frame, there is no such label. There is a numerical stamp. Perhaps your part has such a label, and if so I would certainly follow the label. Perhaps there is variance from year to year. It seems very unlikely the factory would install mine backwards, and it is working fine since installation.
It is definitely in backwards. I will vouch for that. I also graduated from a very well respected technical school and have been a transmission, transfer case, and power train mechanic for some time and have done multiple like yours and many of them I have ran across installed wrong from factory and that doesn’t just lie with that in particular part. Cheers brother and happy wrenching. Good videos otherwise.
You guys commenting owe the author an apology. I just removed this seal. The old seal states airside on the rubber side, hence metal in. The new seal states airside on the metal side. I have a picture if you want to see it.
@@curtisrager2083Thank you 👍