I've been beating my head against the wall about my LMM having the same issue. I never considered the radiator being clogged. Man, I love this channel.
i fixed a old idi ford diesel with a new champion rad the old one had tons of stop leak in it from previous owner the truck had 400,000 on it when i sold it for 5,000 92 ford idi one of the best truck i ever owned
That has to be such a good feeling. And this stuff helps everyone that could be having crazy things like this happening to them. Keep up the awesome work!!
The only way this video could help someone, is if you do the exact opposite of what he said , because everything he said was the exact opposite of correct , He basically just claimed , that if a cooling system holds pressure all night that's bad, and if it holds no pressure that's good, which is the exact opposite of correct , look at the cooling system like a balloon, if a balloon hold air all night long it has no leak, if it goes flat it has a leak , this clown just try to claim if a balloon leaks all it's air out that's good, if it holds air in that's bad , which is insane, .. I have been a technician for 39 years , never in the history of auto repair has anyone ever pressure tested a system because it was holding pressure all night , that's like checking a tire for a leak because the tire never went flat or lost any air , or claiming if a tire holds air all night it must have a leak, but if the tire goes flat over night it's good to go , do you see how silly that is
@@PsychobabbleRapp Too an extent you are right. The system is sealed at 1 atmosphere, so ground level pressure. When its sealed, and hot, expansion makes for a pressure increase in the system (hard hose). When it cools, back to ambient temperature the coolant system levels back to atmosphereic pressure, hence soft hose again. Now if a headgasket leak is present, its going to be a high pressure introduction of exhaust into the coolant system, not an ambient pressure introduction. The headgasket is still sealed enough to not relieve pressure built up in the system, the pressure does not reverse flow back into the combustion chamber. The pressure stays high cause the system is sealed, and has had cylinder pressure introduce additional pressure that never bleeds off, hence the hard hose in the morning.
@@JTFSIX did you watch the video , he claimed to fix a stiff upper hose that held pressure all night by repairing a leak in the lower hose you imbeciles, .. he said he fixed a stiff upper hose by repairing a leak in the lower hose , let that swim around your head for awhile and see if any lights come on
He dribbles…he shoots…and he score! That was definitely a three pointer, I’m glad you got her fixed. Since I have a skinny 2008 LMM, I can hardly wait to see what you have planned for the old girl.
Big shoutout to everyone that comments on these videos! If it wasn’t for the suggestion I would have never figured this out. Thanks again for watching the videos. What should be our first upgrade on the Duramax????
Hey Truck Master! I am really glad you are starting to work on the LMM! Can't wait to see what you have planned! I just recently purchased a 2008 LMM and I have been waiting to see what you would do with your truck. I get good information and advice by watching your videos. I do not want to install junk parts or equipment that are not needed and I appreciate that you take the time to explain the difference about parts that are not so good on your builds. I want to build good power for towing but not build something that will cost an arm /leg. I live in Texas and the temps get really hot in the summer. I was just about to replace the radiator, now I am glad I watched your video.
Not only have I been following for a long time now but I am so excited to see this build and the how-to’s to come with it. As an LMM owner myself, I’m beyond excited!! Keep up with the phenomenal content!
When trouble shooting always start with the least expensive and easiest suspected problems first... You should build this truck to what you wish you could've done to your first Victory Red lmm. She still needs a name tho! 🇺🇸
Any issues? I have the same truck . I think some of my cooler lines are leaking. It’s wet near the coolers in front. Other than that and a small transmission leak mines been great.
Awesome! Glad to see that worked. Kind of bummed I didn't make it to the truck show this time around. The wife's Baby Max Canyon had some parts fall off 😉 would've been interesting to see how it dynos now. Again, great job on the videos.
So I don't understand why it was holding pressure over night, because the only pressure on top hose should be from heat I thought? Also why wasn't the truck overheating if the radiator was plugged?
I just bought my first diesel pickup two months ago a 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD and already did my first upgrade on it. I went with the HSP high flow bundle kit in candy purple and the EFI Live plus the DSP 5 tune. I love the power behind it now. It feels like a totally different truck……
Word of advice with the truck having 200 thousand plus, change the body mount bushings save yourself a lot of headaches with the new aluminum radiator, cause of the body flex it will pop the the cores, I replaced four of mine before finding this to be the problem!
I rebuilt my lly duramax and followed your headgasket video👍✊ Pretty much the only thing I didn’t replace was the radiator. The truck ran great after head studs gaskets and radiator
I’m glad you find the problem with the Lmm. I put a new radiator in my lly recently, I went online to the Dmax store and called them up to see what they recommend what to go with. They told me to go with the max-flow attic radiator with the plastic ends due to the pickup being stock pickup and saying that there is to much body roll and will crack out the aluminum radiators. Somthing to think about. Love the channel. Keep up the content!
Wow. I had a same problem and didn't know that was the issue on a 2005 Ford Excursion. Fortunately I sold as is and later found out the block was cracked. I had know idea that's what it was. Thanks for that awesome post!!!
Nice! Way to keep digging to get to the bottom of the issue - I am sure this will help at least one other person. Thanks for making these great videos.
Curious if it was the radiator & you're not doing anything else with the old one, since it's just plastic sides just smash the plastic & see if there actually is anything plugging it up.
When you first showed how hard that upper hose was I knew it could not be a head gasket. If you blew out the head gasket the system is going to pump to cool it out through the brake and it's not going to hold pressure. I honestly thought it might have been the thermostat. But thinking how thermostats were when they go bad they are supposed to be designed to stay open so you can get somewhere safe to repair. Buying that cap was a real good idea I've seen the old style metal ones go bad and wouldn't allow pressure to release. Really glad to see it looks like you figured out what was wrong. Look forward to watching more videos.
Mishimoto's radiator for a 1993 Dodge doesn't actually fit into a D350 with the 2000 pound front capacity. The front end hardware has some extra components under the radiator and Mishimoto didn't build for that model. Not sure if they've fixed the issue or not, but it took lots of photos and measurements for them to accept a return.
Glad I found your video. I bought a LBZ for $5000 at auction back in December and it was the exact same situation. Drove it 550 miles home with no issues. Noticed the puke tank cap was loose and would spit coolant out while driving when it was tightened down. Engine passed 3 chemical tests (one while driving). No codes stored. Engine ran perfect and had zero blow-by so I didn't think it was a head gasket to begin with. Truck is fully deleted. Replaced puke tank, cap, and fixed the overflow line but still spitting out coolant. Noticed the truck wasn't getting up to temperature so replaced thermostats and that fixed 90% of my coolant loss. Instead of adding every day, I can make it about 800 miles before low coolant light comes on. Upper hose still stays firmer than it should, but I don't get any coolant leaking out so no clue where it's going. Been thinking that the radiator might have something going on and this gave me more confidence in that. However, I do smell a hint of coolant when I pop the hood so I might just have a really small leak somewhere.
I went through 2 of those mishimoto radiators within a year. The passenger side end tank was leaking at the welds. I even had griffin make me a radiator using the mishimoto as a template. Same leaks with the Griffin on the end tank. Luckily both manufacturers refunded my money. I'm back with the ac Delco plastic crap in my LLY. Great video though.
what part about the video was great, was it the part where he claimed if the cooling system holds pressure all night long thats bad, but if it leaks out all its pressure over night thats good, and if it holds pressure good enough that the upper hose stays stiff all night long it must have a leak so lets check it for leaks by pressurizing it, lol good grief, ..there was so much miss information and incorrect assumptions it literally hurt watching this.. in short what he said was, if a tire holds its air all night long thats bad, it must have a leak, , but if the tire goes flat over night thats good, thats what we want, lol , .. if you have a tire that holds air and doesn't go flat, would you check the tire for leaks ? , if your tire goes flat over night would that indicate its good , because that what was shown in this video, .. that upper hose should have pressure in it, it should be stiff, and should hold that pressure for days if not weeks, if your cooling system leaks out all its pressure in a few hours, thats bad my freind, not good
I’ve got a 6.0 that a shop said has blown HG’s. I refuse to believe them, I don’t have any coolant smell or white smoke and truck pulls like a dream. I do have excessive coolant pressure just like your LMM. I think I’ll try to replace my radiator in hopes that’s the problem. Love your videos truckmaster. Although I’m a powerstroke guy, you’ve taught me a lot
I don't know but I'm pretty sure it's fate that we bought almost the same exact truck at almost the same time...mines not in as good of shape but not too bad. First thing I'm doing is the steering. Your videos help get me excited and help show me what and how to work on it! Keep up the good work brotha!
In case you want some steering info Power Steering upgrade www.duramaxforum.com/threads/power-steering-upgrade-and-part-numbers-updated.1015733/#post-12360645
I’m having this same exact issue with my 06 LBZ. Constant pressure in upper radiator hose, but the weird thing was it only over heated if I drove faster than 65mph. Replaced thermostats multiple times, cap on the overflow replaced twice and replaced radiator. Excessive amounts of pressure in the upper radiator hose constantly. But this last time replacing the thermostats about three weeks ago, now the truck doesn’t get hotter than 190. I’ve driven it 180 miles a day for the past two weeks and haven’t had any coolant out of the overflow, and it isn’t burning any coolant. Still has a lot of pressure in the upper coolant hose but no other issues. Can’t afford to change head gaskets just yet but I mean it doesn’t over heat anymore.
Pretty much all OEM radiators are made of plastic anymore. I changed my Toyota plastic radiator a couple of years ago. It was the original at 16 years old along with the hoses, pump and belts which were changed while I had everything out. Nothing lasts forever.
Gm and aftermarket part manufacturers changed the size of the lower hose push lock connection on replacement parts. Anytime you change the original lower hose or rad you have to change them in pairs. This pertains to 06 and newer duramax trucks.
when you have the chance cut those plastic tanks off of your old rad and see if any of the tubes are clogged and your old hose may have an internal spilt inside of it as well that could caused a serious flow problem .
I don't see how head gaskets have anything to do with the hose staying hard after cooled off. If a head gasket is blown, you're only pressurizing the system when it's running. That pressure is going to bleed off as the engine cools, just as it normally does. The system can't hold any more pressure than what the radiator cap allows it to. It sounds to me like you had coolant leaks (other than the head gaskets) and a faulty cap, allowing it to build excessive pressure.
What if I have did head gaskets, water pump, radiator, thermostats, fan clutch,and cooling temperature sensor could it be the overflow tank an cap. But let me add I just recently drop 7 to 8 hours straight with no issues with a 4000 pound load on my trailer so I'm thinking it has to be losing pressure somewhere or a Crack in the overflow tank and sucking in air. What do you think.
Hopefully they are good to go. My head gadgets blew out big time and the hose was stiff but not rock hard. After studs it builds zero pressure and is extremely soft. Extremely. Even with the gaskets blown I could still squeeze the house pretty good.
Ok you might have helped me I'm having the same trouble with a 1972 Pontiac Catalina convertible. It will over heat the hoses are super hard I changed the thermostat and it still does it I honestly didn't think about the rad. I changed it about 10 years ago but I have no leaks.
I just wanted to say you do a very fun job and what you're doing your videos are excellent and very informative You've helped me out a lot with the information you have I have a 2014 GMC any one of your other videos I watched you talked about the air dog the fuel filter and the water filter that you put by the fuel tank I was wondering if you had them and how much they cost
@@TruckMaster no problem I see big things coming for you hard work pays off . Your new garage is great . Can’t wait to see what’s next . And thank you for your service 💯👍🏽💪🏽💪🏽🇺🇸
Got 194K on my ‘11 GMC SLT. Your gave me some hope. No issues ever with this truck Going to 200K and getting my Hummer EV 2022. Keeping my duramax tho. I’ve kept it like new since day 1. Great channel btw!
Mine is in the shop I had to tune and delete it the egr cooler was shot and it was doing the same thing yours did if it’s not tuned and deleted I highly recommend it
Question for you. I am looking at a 2007 LMM duramax. It has 200,000 miles. It has already been deleted and tuned. My question is, is there anything I can expect to need replacement soon. In regaurds to driveline?? Such as injectors, fuel pump, etc. Thank you for your input
I'd like to see your video when change out the CP4 to CP3 on you LML , I did it at 145,000 top save $10,000 later down the road . When I pulled the screens , no metal or shavings of any kind. Put the back together and the CP3 been running fine . They say the CP3 injection pump , pumps up to a 1/3 more fuel. Very nice truck you have , looks great !
I am starting to wonder if at some point the trucks cooling system was compromised with oil from a head gasket failure partially plugging the passages. Usually people just don’t do head studs to do head studs unless the gasket has failed and have it torn down. Just a thought
That's crazy as hell. Both u and D know a lot about these trucks. First he wouldn't have bought it if he thought the gaskets were bad. Then you spent days wrestling with it. Just goes to show you can have very rare issues that look exactly like other issues and it can fool masters... I'm glad you were loyal to your problem solving process and you stuck to your guns.
Hey truckmaster I have a 2011 duramax with a vacuum on the coolant system and I am losing coolant on driver side but can't find it. i know its not the oil cooler leak is higher. Whats the chances the head gasket blow just at the bottom of the head letting coolant blow out leak. does get worse with more boost
Question? A LMM with 200,000 miles would be ok to purchase? I’m wanting to buy a 5th wheel camper and looking for a good truck duramax preferred. Any help?
I have a similar issue on my 07 lbz. I’ve changed t stats the cap and reservoir. I think I’ll order a radiator and hose and see what could happen it’s worth it to me being I don’t have coolant in the oil or oil in my coolant and I don’t burn any coolant. I just build pressure after a day of driving and the hose is rock hard
Does a resonator delete do anything to the truck? I heard about that cap that you can put on but I don’t know much about it. How does it effect it and does it really make a difference in sound?
The factory coolant temperature guage is NOT accurate in my opinion, on my 2008 LMM it will show 210 at operating temp all the time while the tuner guage will range from 175-220. glad that you have your LMM in better shape.
Hey Josh, love the videos. Doing head gaskets on my LB7. Should I do the valve cover fuel line grommets? Any help would be appreciated! Keep up the vids!
Love the videos man! I just bought my first diesel a 13 sierra 2500HD currently blowing coolant out of the overflow of the tank. Hose is soft after sitting, no milky oil. Do you think its head gasket or could it be something hopefully a little less expensive?
@@robz355 Deleted with a 150 clean tune, and unfortunately I bought if from someone I know who I don’t think was being honest. I had someone do a pressure test and the exhaust gas test and both came back fine.
I've seen that in medium duty trucks with cummins. Random overheat just like that. Radiator was plugged very badly. Like some others have said, pop those ends off and look at it.
I just bought a 2006 LBZ and I love it! It’s definitely a fixer upper only because it needs paint and Tint other than that it’s in perfect shape! (Edit i bough it’s for 3,500$! From an older man I used to be close with)
Awesome to see that the hose is still soft, and good tip to know!!! Thank you Josh for that! PS The annoying tick has disappeared and dealership couldn't find anything....
Thank you very much! I'm a new owner of an '08 Durmax love it! Just bummed unfortunately because I don't trust very many people in my area to give me advice on the up keep. I just stumbled on your channel and so far you have given me more piec of mine. Thankfully my hose and coolant resivor is tight an dthe hose is squishy. But I have this bulldog tuner that acationally shows the coolant 244. The temp Guage doesn't go over anymore past the 210 but I have got the code p0128 I wonder if that's got anything to do with it? Anyways didn't know where else to come any advice is well appreciated. Definitely want to upgrade that radiator for added cooling
Hey do you have any idea whats wrong with mine ?? The temp gauge is reading the lowest level but when I stop the truck its spraying coolant everywhere and at a loss
This video gives me hope that my lml’s head gaskets might not be out. I have same issues. Hard radiator hose and low coolant. It never gets over 210 though. Try a good flush then a radiator. Thank you for the videos!
That red antifreeze is junk. I have seen more radiators clogged with that garbage than I can count. It turns to sludge and crystal and plugs everything up. I bought a 2005 duramax LLY and the first thing I did was flush the system and put in the green antifreeze. Another thing is you are dealing with a lot of aluminum in this system. Most tap water is acidic. You want it as neutral as you can get the ph. A ph of 7 is neutral. If you can put in distilled water with your coolant that is ideal. Get a PH tester from any plant supply or litmus paper if you are cheap and test your PH. Napa sells a product called Napa Kool 4056 that is alkaline and will neutralize the acid. I usually put in 2 bottles and that does good. Alkaline doesnt effect the aluminum like acid. I'm getting ready to change my radiator, hoses, thermostats (cooler ones 160 and 180), and power steer/brake hoses (which are leaking) but the rest mainly because there is 300k on the truck and its money well spent. I am also adding a Fass lift pump just because. Good channel. I dont know everything but have over 50 years in the trade. When you stop learning you stop being a mechanic.
I love the videos man congrats on all the success and thank you for uploading makes my day
Anytime 👍
@@TruckMaster my lmm seems to leak water in the door panels any known problems?
Wasaw
I've been beating my head against the wall about my LMM having the same issue. I never considered the radiator being clogged. Man, I love this channel.
i fixed a old idi ford diesel with a new champion rad the old one had tons of stop leak in it from previous owner the truck had 400,000 on it when i sold it for 5,000 92 ford idi one of the best truck i ever owned
That has to be such a good feeling. And this stuff helps everyone that could be having crazy things like this happening to them. Keep up the awesome work!!
Thanks Stu!
The only way this video could help someone, is if you do the exact opposite of what he said , because everything he said was the exact opposite of correct ,
He basically just claimed , that if a cooling system holds pressure all night that's bad, and if it holds no pressure that's good, which is the exact opposite of correct , look at the cooling system like a balloon, if a balloon hold air all night long it has no leak, if it goes flat it has a leak , this clown just try to claim if a balloon leaks all it's air out that's good, if it holds air in that's bad , which is insane, .. I have been a technician for 39 years , never in the history of auto repair has anyone ever pressure tested a system because it was holding pressure all night , that's like checking a tire for a leak because the tire never went flat or lost any air , or claiming if a tire holds air all night it must have a leak, but if the tire goes flat over night it's good to go , do you see how silly that is
@@PsychobabbleRapp Too an extent you are right. The system is sealed at 1 atmosphere, so ground level pressure. When its sealed, and hot, expansion makes for a pressure increase in the system (hard hose). When it cools, back to ambient temperature the coolant system levels back to atmosphereic pressure, hence soft hose again.
Now if a headgasket leak is present, its going to be a high pressure introduction of exhaust into the coolant system, not an ambient pressure introduction. The headgasket is still sealed enough to not relieve pressure built up in the system, the pressure does not reverse flow back into the combustion chamber. The pressure stays high cause the system is sealed, and has had cylinder pressure introduce additional pressure that never bleeds off, hence the hard hose in the morning.
@@wheresbrent MWAHAAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAA.....I love this explanation....Thank you sir......."CLOWNS!!!!!....Please get back in the car"
@@JTFSIX did you watch the video , he claimed to fix a stiff upper hose that held pressure all night by repairing a leak in the lower hose you imbeciles, .. he said he fixed a stiff upper hose by repairing a leak in the lower hose , let that swim around your head for awhile and see if any lights come on
He dribbles…he shoots…and he score! That was definitely a three pointer, I’m glad you got her fixed. Since I have a skinny 2008 LMM, I can hardly wait to see what you have planned for the old girl.
Big shoutout to everyone that comments on these videos! If it wasn’t for the suggestion I would have never figured this out. Thanks again for watching the videos. What should be our first upgrade on the Duramax????
I think this truck should be a tow rig simple odds and ends for fuel mileage
Few bolt ons. Nothing. It's beautiful as is
@@Yippa391 I agree
Are you running replicas or adapters for those wheels?
What's the story on the wheels I thought lml wheels what different bolt pattern than lmm. I have an 07.5 lmm and would love to have those wheels.
Dude you are Blessed. Great you hung tough trough the prayer issues with the school . Love your Chanel and your faith.
Thanks Al that’s so true what you are saying
Amen to that
Hey Truck Master! I am really glad you are starting to work on the LMM! Can't wait to see what you have planned! I just recently purchased a 2008 LMM and I have been waiting to see what you would do with your truck. I get good information and advice by watching your videos. I do not want to install junk parts or equipment that are not needed and I appreciate that you take the time to explain the difference about parts that are not so good on your builds.
I want to build good power for towing but not build something that will cost an arm /leg.
I live in Texas and the temps get really hot in the summer. I was just about to replace the radiator, now I am glad I watched your video.
Dead honest. Ive always been a cummins guy but since buying my lly and first duramax your channels been the most usefull thing on the internet
Not only have I been following for a long time now but I am so excited to see this build and the how-to’s to come with it. As an LMM owner myself, I’m beyond excited!! Keep up with the phenomenal content!
I own lmm as well. Does your oil pressure gauge read low sometimes at idle?
Another LMM owner that's excited to see more upgrades
When trouble shooting always start with the least expensive and easiest suspected problems first... You should build this truck to what you wish you could've done to your first Victory Red lmm. She still needs a name tho! 🇺🇸
I had an LMM for 8+ years, 310k mikes. Solid unit.
Any issues? I have the same truck . I think some of my cooler lines are leaking. It’s wet near the coolers in front. Other than that and a small transmission leak mines been great.
"were gonna give the Cummins a rest for a while. Uuuuggghhh" you have no idea man. I feel this on a different level.
Hook a hose up to old radiator and see what flow out of it looks like. May show something or may not.
I had the same thing happen with my truck best feeling ever to find out it was just radiator instead of gasket congrats man
👍👍👍
Awesome! Glad to see that worked.
Kind of bummed I didn't make it to the truck show this time around. The wife's Baby Max Canyon had some parts fall off 😉 would've been interesting to see how it dynos now.
Again, great job on the videos.
Nicely done.
Got 250k on my LMM stock radiator. No issues.
In future to Diagnose blocked radiator use laser Thermometer hit different parts and if blocked will have drastically different temps
So I don't understand why it was holding pressure over night, because the only pressure on top hose should be from heat I thought? Also why wasn't the truck overheating if the radiator was plugged?
I just bought my first diesel pickup two months ago a 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD and already did my first upgrade on it. I went with the HSP high flow bundle kit in candy purple and the EFI Live plus the DSP 5 tune. I love the power behind it now. It feels like a totally different truck……
Word of advice with the truck having 200 thousand plus, change the body mount bushings save yourself a lot of headaches with the new aluminum radiator, cause of the body flex it will pop the the cores, I replaced four of mine before finding this to be the problem!
I rebuilt my lly duramax and followed your headgasket video👍✊ Pretty much the only thing I didn’t replace was the radiator. The truck ran great after head studs gaskets and radiator
I’m glad you find the problem with the Lmm. I put a new radiator in my lly recently, I went online to the Dmax store and called them up to see what they recommend what to go with. They told me to go with the max-flow attic radiator with the plastic ends due to the pickup being stock pickup and saying that there is to much body roll and will crack out the aluminum radiators. Somthing to think about. Love the channel. Keep up the content!
Body roll? It’s held into the core support… there’s no rolling going on there 😂
Wow. I had a same problem and didn't know that was the issue on a 2005 Ford Excursion. Fortunately I sold as is and later found out the block was cracked. I had know idea that's what it was. Thanks for that awesome post!!!
Thanks 🙏
Nice! Way to keep digging to get to the bottom of the issue - I am sure this will help at least one other person. Thanks for making these great videos.
You have the best head gasket video on youtube I watched your video over 100 times in the process, thanks Dude
Glad to see you got that pressure issue sorted out. First upgrade on any duramax should be a lift pump.
Lift pump on LML too?
Curious if it was the radiator & you're not doing anything else with the old one, since it's just plastic sides just smash the plastic & see if there actually is anything plugging it up.
When you first showed how hard that upper hose was I knew it could not be a head gasket. If you blew out the head gasket the system is going to pump to cool it out through the brake and it's not going to hold pressure. I honestly thought it might have been the thermostat. But thinking how thermostats were when they go bad they are supposed to be designed to stay open so you can get somewhere safe to repair. Buying that cap was a real good idea I've seen the old style metal ones go bad and wouldn't allow pressure to release.
Really glad to see it looks like you figured out what was wrong. Look forward to watching more videos.
Mishimoto's radiator for a 1993 Dodge doesn't actually fit into a D350 with the 2000 pound front capacity. The front end hardware has some extra components under the radiator and Mishimoto didn't build for that model. Not sure if they've fixed the issue or not, but it took lots of photos and measurements for them to accept a return.
Good to know 👍
Glad I found your video. I bought a LBZ for $5000 at auction back in December and it was the exact same situation. Drove it 550 miles home with no issues. Noticed the puke tank cap was loose and would spit coolant out while driving when it was tightened down. Engine passed 3 chemical tests (one while driving). No codes stored. Engine ran perfect and had zero blow-by so I didn't think it was a head gasket to begin with. Truck is fully deleted. Replaced puke tank, cap, and fixed the overflow line but still spitting out coolant. Noticed the truck wasn't getting up to temperature so replaced thermostats and that fixed 90% of my coolant loss. Instead of adding every day, I can make it about 800 miles before low coolant light comes on. Upper hose still stays firmer than it should, but I don't get any coolant leaking out so no clue where it's going. Been thinking that the radiator might have something going on and this gave me more confidence in that. However, I do smell a hint of coolant when I pop the hood so I might just have a really small leak somewhere.
I went through 2 of those mishimoto radiators within a year. The passenger side end tank was leaking at the welds. I even had griffin make me a radiator using the mishimoto as a template. Same leaks with the Griffin on the end tank. Luckily both manufacturers refunded my money. I'm back with the ac Delco plastic crap in my LLY. Great video though.
This is great info I didn’t know those radiators were so problematic
what part about the video was great, was it the part where he claimed if the cooling system holds pressure all night long thats bad, but if it leaks out all its pressure over night thats good, and if it holds pressure good enough that the upper hose stays stiff all night long it must have a leak so lets check it for leaks by pressurizing it, lol good grief, ..there was so much miss information and incorrect assumptions it literally hurt watching this.. in short what he said was, if a tire holds its air all night long thats bad, it must have a leak, , but if the tire goes flat over night thats good, thats what we want, lol , ..
if you have a tire that holds air and doesn't go flat, would you check the tire for leaks ? , if your tire goes flat over night would that indicate its good , because that what was shown in this video, .. that upper hose should have pressure in it, it should be stiff, and should hold that pressure for days if not weeks, if your cooling system leaks out all its pressure in a few hours, thats bad my freind, not good
I’ve got a 6.0 that a shop said has blown HG’s. I refuse to believe them, I don’t have any coolant smell or white smoke and truck pulls like a dream. I do have excessive coolant pressure just like your LMM. I think I’ll try to replace my radiator in hopes that’s the problem. Love your videos truckmaster. Although I’m a powerstroke guy, you’ve taught me a lot
I have a extremely clean 19 2500 with 71,000 miles on Facebook marketplace long bed , Bluffton Ohio
Hope Dylan wasn't too pissed. I like him and his channel too. Looking forward to the lly vids. 🇺🇲👍
Love your channel dude, very educational. Your channel is one of the main reasons I recently picked up my 2006 LBZ Duramax.
Pop the sides off the old radiator and you will be able to see if its plugged or not.
I don't know but I'm pretty sure it's fate that we bought almost the same exact truck at almost the same time...mines not in as good of shape but not too bad. First thing I'm doing is the steering. Your videos help get me excited and help show me what and how to work on it! Keep up the good work brotha!
Thanks brother!
In case you want some steering info Power Steering upgrade
www.duramaxforum.com/threads/power-steering-upgrade-and-part-numbers-updated.1015733/#post-12360645
I’m having this same exact issue with my 06 LBZ. Constant pressure in upper radiator hose, but the weird thing was it only over heated if I drove faster than 65mph. Replaced thermostats multiple times, cap on the overflow replaced twice and replaced radiator. Excessive amounts of pressure in the upper radiator hose constantly. But this last time replacing the thermostats about three weeks ago, now the truck doesn’t get hotter than 190. I’ve driven it 180 miles a day for the past two weeks and haven’t had any coolant out of the overflow, and it isn’t burning any coolant. Still has a lot of pressure in the upper coolant hose but no other issues. Can’t afford to change head gaskets just yet but I mean it doesn’t over heat anymore.
Top notch as usual brother!!! GOD Bless America and the 2A!!!
And Diesels (-:
Definitely!
Congratulations on your FB Market Place Victory!!!!
Troubleshooting at it’s best. Keep up the great work.
Pretty much all OEM radiators are made of plastic anymore. I changed my Toyota plastic radiator a couple of years ago. It was the original at 16 years old along with the hoses, pump and belts which were changed while I had everything out. Nothing lasts forever.
Nice, I don’t work on trucks much but these can’t be to bad to pull the heads off, props to you
Thanks
Gm and aftermarket part manufacturers changed the size of the lower hose push lock connection on replacement parts. Anytime you change the original lower hose or rad you have to change them in pairs. This pertains to 06 and newer duramax trucks.
That coolant gm uses dexcool or whatever crap it is...is exactly what it is CRAP, it's known to do that to them radiators. Glad you fixed the problem
when you have the chance cut those plastic tanks off of your old rad and see if any of the tubes are clogged and your old hose may have an internal spilt inside of it as well that could caused a serious flow problem .
Good point
Glad it worked out for u now it’s time to build some power!
Definitely 👍
I don't see how head gaskets have anything to do with the hose staying hard after cooled off. If a head gasket is blown, you're only pressurizing the system when it's running. That pressure is going to bleed off as the engine cools, just as it normally does. The system can't hold any more pressure than what the radiator cap allows it to. It sounds to me like you had coolant leaks (other than the head gaskets) and a faulty cap, allowing it to build excessive pressure.
What if I have did head gaskets, water pump, radiator, thermostats, fan clutch,and cooling temperature sensor could it be the overflow tank an cap. But let me add I just recently drop 7 to 8 hours straight with no issues with a 4000 pound load on my trailer so I'm thinking it has to be losing pressure somewhere or a Crack in the overflow tank and sucking in air. What do you think.
Crazy, but my buddy put studs in a power stroke one bolt at a time, never changed gaskets, good luck
Same thing I did with my Cummins, worked great.
Hopefully they are good to go. My head gadgets blew out big time and the hose was stiff but not rock hard. After studs it builds zero pressure and is extremely soft. Extremely. Even with the gaskets blown I could still squeeze the house pretty good.
I have a 2013 lml with hsp high flow bundle kit, planning on changing the turbo do I have to remove the Y bride to change the turbo
Ok you might have helped me I'm having the same trouble with a 1972 Pontiac Catalina convertible. It will over heat the hoses are super hard I changed the thermostat and it still does it I honestly didn't think about the rad. I changed it about 10 years ago but I have no leaks.
I just wanted to say you do a very fun job and what you're doing your videos are excellent and very informative You've helped me out a lot with the information you have I have a 2014 GMC any one of your other videos I watched you talked about the air dog the fuel filter and the water filter that you put by the fuel tank I was wondering if you had them and how much they cost
Great problem diagnosis and repair with steps video. Can’t wait to see more 💯💯💪🏽👍🏽
Thanks Tre!
@@TruckMaster no problem I see big things coming for you hard work pays off . Your new garage is great . Can’t wait to see what’s next . And thank you for your service 💯👍🏽💪🏽💪🏽🇺🇸
Got 194K on my ‘11 GMC SLT. Your gave me some hope. No issues ever with this truck Going to 200K and getting my Hummer EV 2022. Keeping my duramax tho. I’ve kept it like new since day 1. Great channel btw!
Favorite truck on the channel! I look forward to seeing more content on it!
Thanks!
Mine is in the shop I had to tune and delete it the egr cooler was shot and it was doing the same thing yours did if it’s not tuned and deleted I highly recommend it
Spoiler, it was not head gaskets it was a plugged radiator...
Question for you. I am looking at a 2007 LMM duramax. It has 200,000 miles. It has already been deleted and tuned. My question is, is there anything I can expect to need replacement soon. In regaurds to driveline?? Such as injectors, fuel pump, etc. Thank you for your input
Definitely get a Airdog lift pump and a pcv reroute
Now I'm wondering if my jeep has this issue...does the same thing but the rad was replaced awhile back
I'd like to see your video when change out the CP4 to CP3 on you LML , I did it at 145,000 top save $10,000 later down the road . When I pulled the screens , no metal or shavings of any kind. Put the back together and the CP3 been running fine . They say the CP3 injection pump , pumps up to a 1/3 more fuel. Very nice truck you have , looks great !
I am starting to wonder if at some point the trucks cooling system was compromised with oil from a head gasket failure partially plugging the passages. Usually people just don’t do head studs to do head studs unless the gasket has failed and have it torn down. Just a thought
That's crazy as hell. Both u and D know a lot about these trucks. First he wouldn't have bought it if he thought the gaskets were bad. Then you spent days wrestling with it. Just goes to show you can have very rare issues that look exactly like other issues and it can fool masters... I'm glad you were loyal to your problem solving process and you stuck to your guns.
Hey truckmaster I have a 2011 duramax with a vacuum on the coolant system and I am losing coolant on driver side but can't find it. i know its not the oil cooler leak is higher. Whats the chances the head gasket blow just at the bottom of the head letting coolant blow out leak. does get worse with more boost
Bro that’s amazing! Trucks gonna be siiick !!!
the chevy is an awsome truck. our railroad has the same model very reliabe withe 400k mi and counting
Question? A LMM with 200,000 miles would be ok to purchase? I’m wanting to buy a 5th wheel camper and looking for a good truck duramax preferred. Any help?
I miss these kinds of videos, troubleshooting and DIY
Awesome video and congrats on the come up! I want a dirtymax so bad
I have a similar issue on my 07 lbz. I’ve changed t stats the cap and reservoir. I think I’ll order a radiator and hose and see what could happen it’s worth it to me being I don’t have coolant in the oil or oil in my coolant and I don’t burn any coolant. I just build pressure after a day of driving and the hose is rock hard
Consider a Rudy's diesel hose kit to get rid of the plastic Tee in the bottom hose. PPE has em too but seem the same and more $
Does a resonator delete do anything to the truck? I heard about that cap that you can put on but I don’t know much about it. How does it effect it and does it really make a difference in sound?
Might help in future searches to put coolant fixes or similar keywords in the description so someone with problems can find the vid
We're both coolant hoses stiff? Or just the one on top?
Random thought and idk if it would make that big of a difference but did it have the recommended type of coolant?
I startting school as a diesel mechanic. I can't wait to buy an older diesel and fix it up.
Terrible idea
@@haydenroyer lol what, school or the truck?
The factory coolant temperature guage is NOT accurate in my opinion, on my 2008 LMM it will show 210 at operating temp all the time while the tuner guage will range from 175-220. glad that you have your LMM in better shape.
Josh we need to see some more of the denali l5p!!!
Hey Josh, love the videos. Doing head gaskets on my LB7. Should I do the valve cover fuel line grommets? Any help would be appreciated! Keep up the vids!
You don’t need to but it’s a great idea
Love the videos man! I just bought my first diesel a 13 sierra 2500HD currently blowing coolant out of the overflow of the tank. Hose is soft after sitting, no milky oil. Do you think its head gasket or could it be something hopefully a little less expensive?
Has it been modified?! Haha 1st rule don’t buy “built” trucks unless you know your stuff
@@robz355 Deleted with a 150 clean tune, and unfortunately I bought if from someone I know who I don’t think was being honest. I had someone do a pressure test and the exhaust gas test and both came back fine.
I've seen that in medium duty trucks with cummins. Random overheat just like that. Radiator was plugged very badly.
Like some others have said, pop those ends off and look at it.
I just bought a 2006 LBZ and I love it! It’s definitely a fixer upper only because it needs paint and Tint other than that it’s in perfect shape! (Edit i bough it’s for 3,500$! From an older man I used to be close with)
I have the same 2007.5 Z71 with 332,000 all stock. At 55 yoa I think it will be my last truck. Looking forward to more vids 👍👍
Thanks
Awesome to see that the hose is still soft, and good tip to know!!!
Thank you Josh for that!
PS
The annoying tick has disappeared and dealership couldn't find anything....
It’s so normal for these engines to tick sometimes it’s the oil you use
Thank you very much! I'm a new owner of an '08 Durmax love it! Just bummed unfortunately because I don't trust very many people in my area to give me advice on the up keep. I just stumbled on your channel and so far you have given me more piec of mine. Thankfully my hose and coolant resivor is tight an dthe hose is squishy. But I have this bulldog tuner that acationally shows the coolant 244. The temp Guage doesn't go over anymore past the 210 but I have got the code p0128 I wonder if that's got anything to do with it? Anyways didn't know where else to come any advice is well appreciated. Definitely want to upgrade that radiator for added cooling
Was the truck overheating before the radiator was replaced?
Hey do you have any idea whats wrong with mine ?? The temp gauge is reading the lowest level but when I stop the truck its spraying coolant everywhere and at a loss
I've been seeing a bunch of bad reviews for those radiators only lasting 6 months or less. Anyone have a positive things to say?
Sometimes it's best to think it through and take your time to figure out the problem. Start with the small stuff and eliminate each step.
This video gives me hope that my lml’s head gaskets might not be out. I have same issues. Hard radiator hose and low coolant. It never gets over 210 though. Try a good flush then a radiator. Thank you for the videos!
So the upper radiator hose should be hard, the coolant system builds pressure 20 pounds when it's hot?
Also love the videos!
Please do a lift pump install I also have an 08 lmm! Thanks for the videos as usual awesome josh!
Lucky guy! I didn’t get that lucky with my LLY. Glad it worked out for you!
Wow I wonder how many mis diag’s were done and it could have just been a rad? Cool stuff man.
Thanks
What are the symptoms of a blown head gasket on a LBZ? And what is the purpose of changing head studs?
Can you dissect the old radiator to see if it was the problem?
Sure
No it was a radiator thank you for sharing
A lot of duramax guys jump to head gaskets but I've seen a lot of egr coolers that act exactly like a head gasket when they go bad
I know what you mean, luckily mine fell off somehow
That red antifreeze is junk. I have seen more radiators clogged with that garbage than I can count. It turns to sludge and crystal and plugs everything up. I bought a 2005 duramax LLY and the first thing I did was flush the system and put in the green antifreeze. Another thing is you are dealing with a lot of aluminum in this system. Most tap water is acidic. You want it as neutral as you can get the ph. A ph of 7 is neutral. If you can put in distilled water with your coolant that is ideal. Get a PH tester from any plant supply or litmus paper if you are cheap and test your PH. Napa sells a product called Napa Kool 4056 that is alkaline and will neutralize the acid. I usually put in 2 bottles and that does good. Alkaline doesnt effect the aluminum like acid. I'm getting ready to change my radiator, hoses, thermostats (cooler ones 160 and 180), and power steer/brake hoses (which are leaking) but the rest mainly because there is 300k on the truck and its money well spent. I am also adding a Fass lift pump just because. Good channel. I dont know everything but have over 50 years in the trade. When you stop learning you stop being a mechanic.
That’s awesome you got it fixed
Thoughts on buying an lmm with 295,000 miles fron a texas used dealership.