Hello Ron, fellow Bravo fixer here... great video... hats off to you for going in as deep as you did but just wanted to let you and other viewers know that you don't need to remove the shaft and all the levers... as you discovered, on each lever there are two small screws and one adjuster screw held in place with a lock nut. As you probably know, the adjuster screw creates a bit of resistance when the lever travels from idle to fully closed. Anyway, if you remove all three, you can gently ease the lever off the shaft making it much easier and quicker to do the repair. Afterwards, reassemble, adjust the adjuster screw using a small allen key to hold the adjuster screw and tighten the lock nut with a suitable spanner. Another tip for you to consider if/when you need to repair any of the other wires, connect the new wire direct to the terminal and then you only need to join the new wire to the original... much neater and in my experience easier as there is very little room inside the lever housing. More information outlining my Bravo repairs in the comments section below UA-cam by 2020 fs'ers who, to his credit gave me the confidence to attempt the job in the first place. (ua-cam.com/video/dR-QUxHw1oA/v-deo.html )
Thanks for the tip, I know I looked at that, but for some reason didn’t go that path, I'll check it out next time as I know there will be. A next time.
Excellent video, very helpful. Have completed the repair having found 5 broken wires! What was your secret for getting the circlip back on? With the two washers on the rod cannot see the slot for the circlip yet everything looks correctly positioned and closed up. Have tried changing the position of the tensioner but not enough movement. I know its tight but.......
Ah yes, the circlip, this was my second time fixing it, the first time the circlip broke, this time it was ok, there is a groove in my shaft, but I'm not sure about all versions.
Yes have the groove but with two washers on it is covered. Circlip went on with just the metal washer and all seems ok. Hope Honeycomb will modify for future sales!
My autopilot buttons, landing gear, toggle switches and flaps suddenly stopped functioning. Honeycomb gave me a throttle tester and it was indeed broken. Do you have a fix for this?
Sorry I have not seen that. If you open it up and look for a broken wire, it woukd most likely be between the io controller and the front switch board.
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello Ron, fellow Bravo fixer here... great video... hats off to you for going in as deep as you did but just wanted to let you and other viewers know that you don't need to remove the shaft and all the levers... as you discovered, on each lever there are two small screws and one adjuster screw held in place with a lock nut. As you probably know, the adjuster screw creates a bit of resistance when the lever travels from idle to fully closed. Anyway, if you remove all three, you can gently ease the lever off the shaft making it much easier and quicker to do the repair. Afterwards, reassemble, adjust the adjuster screw using a small allen key to hold the adjuster screw and tighten the lock nut with a suitable spanner. Another tip for you to consider if/when you need to repair any of the other wires, connect the new wire direct to the terminal and then you only need to join the new wire to the original... much neater and in my experience easier as there is very little room inside the lever housing. More information outlining my Bravo repairs in the comments section below UA-cam by 2020 fs'ers who, to his credit gave me the confidence to attempt the job in the first place. (ua-cam.com/video/dR-QUxHw1oA/v-deo.html )
Thanks for the tip, I know I looked at that, but for some reason didn’t go that path, I'll check it out next time as I know there will be. A next time.
@@Ron_A._Bolton you're welcome
Excellent video, very helpful. Have completed the repair having found 5 broken wires! What was your secret for getting the circlip back on? With the two washers on the rod cannot see the slot for the circlip yet everything looks correctly positioned and closed up. Have tried changing the position of the tensioner but not enough movement. I know its tight but.......
Ah yes, the circlip, this was my second time fixing it, the first time the circlip broke, this time it was ok, there is a groove in my shaft, but I'm not sure about all versions.
Yes have the groove but with two washers on it is covered. Circlip went on with just the metal washer and all seems ok. Hope Honeycomb will modify for future sales!
My autopilot buttons, landing gear, toggle switches and flaps suddenly stopped functioning. Honeycomb gave me a throttle tester and it was indeed broken. Do you have a fix for this?
Sorry I have not seen that. If you open it up and look for a broken wire, it woukd most likely be between the io controller and the front switch board.