If I can, for the first time EVER, offer you some assistance. I copied your battery location idea, but did my wiring a little different. I ran the 0 AWG. GND. up over the RT rear wheel well, and tied into the passenger side rear floor seat-belt bolt location. My engine spins right over. Great stuff Matt, you have been an inspiration over the years. Thanks.
I did too and had almost the same problem but mine was so weak the engine wouldn't even turn over. I ended up just running a wire from the battery to the engine
I run an '86 IROC'Z with the Flowmaster 80 and I used a 12inch cherrybomb glasspack as a resonator. I love the sound, deep and mello tone with no farting noise during cruising revs. I often drive with the radio off just to hear the tone.
You should really run a second ground directly from the battery to the engine, especially when dealing with modern efi engine swaps. I always recommend this when relocating the battery to the back.
The old flared exhaust flanges, we used to wrap the donut with aluminum foil, it would crush and fill areas, maybe make multi layer gasket to fill spots.
I feel pretty confident adding a resonator will be the fix here. Had a similar issue with a GM product I had years ago, and a resonator took that natter/rasp tone out of it.
I know in a previous video you said you don’t like exhaust tips, but some tips that just poke past the bumper could help kill the resonance from the sound bouncing off the inside of the bumper and off the road? Just a thought
They have a power steering pump controller on E-Bay that has a nob you put in the car and you can control it by tuning the nob. And there is one controlled by GPS as well. You speed up and it turns the pump down to stiffen your steering at higher speeds. Car is looking great
God, I love this series... I've got an 84 i'm restoring again. I'm putting in an LT1 from a 16 2ss camaro. And I just had a 23 Rapid blue 2ss until it got stolen. Love that. But it was insanely quick
how the engines run for LT engines is that the first fan kicks on at 207F and the 2nd one kicks on at 221F these motors are actually designed to run hotter than you'd expect.
From my personal experience, I suggest changing the copper terminals, especially if purchased from the "E-bay/Amazon 10 for $10 special", to a Tinned Copper for the East coast weather condition.
I run Magnaflows with long tubes and no cats with my gen 5, L86 and sounds amazing. I’m running 3.08s with my 8 speed setup. Originally ran 3.73s and the trans would shift all the way to third gear by the end of the driveway. The higher gears work best with these 8/10 speeds, besides the much lower 1st gears and tons of torque more than make up for it. Btw this setup is in my 67 c10. Loved the video, please make more on your third gens.
44:28 Matt's mental health just went past minion level now lol. Still, I feel that "I managed get to have this thing running after so long" vibe all the way over here. I agree, that raspy sound at 2500 rpm is not enjoyable, it's kind of like an old Mexico city Nissan Tsuru taxi cab thing. Maybe adding a resonator in the middle of the exhaust? That might get the job done.
I had same slow start issue would lit kill the battery after a few cranks, redid wires got a brand new agm battery also a high output alternator helped. Anyways I got a xs power titan 8 lithium battery for the trunk. X pipe made my exhaust sound better idk if you have one
3 or 3.5 inch inlet 2.25 dual outlet Flowmaster super 44 , xforceusa , spintech performance mufflers.If you leave the controlbox outside moisture will find it's way in there good find.The exhaust problem is the transmission factory shift points an upgrade would be a nice addition but also you have a truck exhaust on so you know you know.There is an blockage in the input shaft that keeps the transmission fluid from going back into the transmission everything will be alright but removing that blockage improves holding pressure and helps to reduce temps in the torque converter better temps overall.5 w20 in the winter that will bring the heat back even a butt warmer the 160 degree thermostat will be really nice when it gets hot outside.Damn you have a GTA with disk brakes that work well and t tops really awsome.Have fun with it and put Firehawk decals na you can't it's not a formula GTA then.Don't forget the 3 impulse when braking 3rd brake light addition that looks good f1 even but gives the appearance that the car is moving very quickly even when it's not.I'm going to do it and I think it really would create an awesome stand out from the rest of the cars and trucks on the road 💯.
Yeah I hear what you mean around 46:00 about the exhaust... My third gen camaro sounds a bit like that as well. On my 6th gen, with the LT1, it. did not sound anything like that, I wonder if it has to do with the pipes being so wide and the complete openness of the system. My 6th gen sounded super pure. Wondering this since i'm putting the LT1 in my third gen soon.
Hey Matt, you make me regret the dart 383 I'm putting in my 84. Should have bit the bullet and gone LS or LT. 2 comments. On those leaking band clamps, use you template and cut a few layers of heavy duty aluminum foil. You can spray adhesive them and stack them. On the neck down at the muffler, i have cut the inlet above the neck down and used a lisle heavy duty expander to make it restriction match the pipe. I'm not even sure you would need to cut the nipple off first. Worth a try.
(2) Words... FLOW MONSTER! Same as the original "FLOWMASTER"! iI run the single 3" in dual 2.5 out just straight muffler, no turn downs or anything.. Sounds good, deep rumble... Gonna get a single 4" dual 3" out eventually when i do the 4" back... May do 4"in/out with a single hideaway, i dunno, maybe a 50series Flowmaster or super 40 one... Probably Hawks sinister 4" pipe connected from some ARH Stainless headers, factory routing to the Flowmaster/Monster...
I copied the way you did your battery relocation wiring and had issues as well, for me it was the ground. i ending up just running a wire all the way to the engine from the battery and that fixed the problem
What a great way to start a Sunday! I like that you clean the garage! You really gonna pump out the work now! What’s up with the sway bars in front on the floor? Are those the helwigs? Are they for sale?
So the steering wheel doesnt spin, but better yet you hold it in place for it to turn?? Am i saying it right…….either way thats pretty cool and was one of the main reasons along with direct injection, that has kept me away from LT swap….but i have seen the direct injection block off plates and intake that have port injection like a LS….
The “ raspy/poopy “ sound from your exhaust could just be how the tip is echoing. Maybe replace the last 6-12” of the tailpipe with something slightly larger in diameter. Maybe double walled. That ought to fix that a bit.
I know opinions can change as you drive it more but if you had to do another engine swap on a 3rd gen, would you do another LT or LS? Which one do you prefer? Great content. Looking forward to more!
The dynomax always sounded better after time. If it's still a packed muffler it will change. I have the hooker tfx 3rd gen system.. Sounds great if they still make it.
Curious, maybe you need a cat for both banks of cylinders? I put a magnaflow resonator And flowmaster 80 series on my car. Trying to kill the rasp of my 3.1 v6. My next step to fix mine is a 5.3 lol. But I have wondered what a cat for each bank would do for mine.
I think you described the sound of the exhaust pretty good I've been through the same thing with exhaust on a 88 Trans Am the only thing I could add to it is it sounds like hammered dog s*** hammered dogshit😂😅 but love to build keep up the good work
Don’t have the special pinch weld blocks, I’m just using the low position on the truck adapters. They’re basically the same as the round pads on a 2 post lift.
Try what he does in this video. ua-cam.com/video/l9CrmkIxDQU/v-deo.htmlsi=wYtjHWMOwsFuJWni Also bringing the exhaust out to the rear bumper will help with interior sound. Honestly I wouldn't mess with the exhaust before doing the interior, I would do the subframe before the interior so you can weld them in without worry. Put a multimeter meter on the starter motor and ground it to the ear of the starter, watch the voltage drop, then do the same at the battery. If the values much different then you don't have enough amperage capability in the wire. First thing I would try would be jumper cables clamp it to the starter ear and negative battery.
That fart sound could be caused from having the oversized exhaust. The speed of the gas flowing through it isn’t as fast as a smaller diameter pipe. Typically why the good old PepBoys Honda mufflers sound like wet farts.
I matched the wire gauge on the connector and went up one to be safe but I don’t know what it pulls. I’ll tell you one thing though, the headlights dim when turning the wheel at a stop.
@@petersingh4825 The Volvo control unit has a relay built in. You just need to give it direct battery voltage for the motor and a 12volt source to trigger it.
If I can, for the first time EVER, offer you some assistance. I copied your battery location idea, but did my wiring a little different. I ran the 0 AWG. GND. up over the RT rear wheel well, and tied into the passenger side rear floor seat-belt bolt location. My engine spins right over. Great stuff Matt, you have been an inspiration over the years. Thanks.
I did too and had almost the same problem but mine was so weak the engine wouldn't even turn over. I ended up just running a wire from the battery to the engine
I run an '86 IROC'Z with the Flowmaster 80 and I used a 12inch cherrybomb glasspack as a resonator. I love the sound, deep and mello tone with no farting noise during cruising revs. I often drive with the radio off just to hear the tone.
Your T/A videos got me working on mine and posting videos again!
Great video, Matt! Love the shop and thought process of focusing on one at a time! I can't wait for the next Trans Am video!! Loving this content!!
Love this build since I’m working on my ‘83 bird. Especially the “fixes” and then the re-dos…very realistic DIY life.
You should really run a second ground directly from the battery to the engine, especially when dealing with modern efi engine swaps. I always recommend this when relocating the battery to the back.
i would try a resonator aslo extinding your tail pipe a bit the exhaust may be droaning becaue of where the exhaust is exiting
The old flared exhaust flanges, we used to wrap the donut with aluminum foil, it would crush and fill areas, maybe make multi layer gasket to fill spots.
Remflex
I used some of the gasket sealer putty stuff to make sure the donut sealed up.
Dude I look forward to this Trans Am content!
I feel pretty confident adding a resonator will be the fix here. Had a similar issue with a GM product I had years ago, and a resonator took that natter/rasp tone out of it.
I know in a previous video you said you don’t like exhaust tips, but some tips that just poke past the bumper could help kill the resonance from the sound bouncing off the inside of the bumper and off the road? Just a thought
They have a power steering pump controller on E-Bay that has a nob you put in the car and you can control it by tuning the nob. And there is one controlled by GPS as well. You speed up and it turns the pump down to stiffen your steering at higher speeds. Car is looking great
That’s awesome bro. Good job. I’m going to do my exhaust system on my 1989 Pontiac Firebird.
Awesome work as always man! Love the TA content.
“She’ll go……….she’ll go” I felt that one haha
Another awesome TA video Matt! I need your help with my TA!
God, I love this series... I've got an 84 i'm restoring again. I'm putting in an LT1 from a 16 2ss camaro. And I just had a 23 Rapid blue 2ss until it got stolen. Love that. But it was insanely quick
how the engines run for LT engines is that the first fan kicks on at 207F and the 2nd one kicks on at 221F
these motors are actually designed to run hotter than you'd expect.
From my personal experience, I suggest changing the copper terminals, especially if purchased from the "E-bay/Amazon 10 for $10 special", to a Tinned Copper for the East coast weather condition.
Excellent use of your shop!! Keep the great content coming please!!
Here for the Trans Am content, good stuff from a fellow New Yorker, Queens.
I run Magnaflows with long tubes and no cats with my gen 5, L86 and sounds amazing. I’m running 3.08s with my 8 speed setup. Originally ran 3.73s and the trans would shift all the way to third gear by the end of the driveway. The higher gears work best with these 8/10 speeds, besides the much lower 1st gears and tons of torque more than make up for it. Btw this setup is in my 67 c10. Loved the video, please make more on your third gens.
get a corsa or borla exhaust the way it cranks sounds pretty normal for an old chevy to me.
This is definitely awesome. Do a cost video at some point.
Don’t do that. 🤫It’s like calculating how much you spend on your wife or girlfriend. 😂
@@mrphiscal 😂 not at all. I always keep track of my projects. But I'm sure this one is a lot more then we think it is.
44:28 Matt's mental health just went past minion level now lol. Still, I feel that "I managed get to have this thing running after so long" vibe all the way over here. I agree, that raspy sound at 2500 rpm is not enjoyable, it's kind of like an old Mexico city Nissan Tsuru taxi cab thing. Maybe adding a resonator in the middle of the exhaust? That might get the job done.
Your car sounds great to me.
Progress is progress big homie!!! Im just glad to see her runnin
Love the progress!
I had same slow start issue would lit kill the battery after a few cranks, redid wires got a brand new agm battery also a high output alternator helped. Anyways I got a xs power titan 8 lithium battery for the trunk. X pipe made my exhaust sound better idk if you have one
I’m about to rebuild the front end on my 03 Tahoe. After seeing those on your video I added it to the list
Man it stays cold up there huh? Move to the South! Can work on cars all year round! lmao Good work man. One of my dream cars!
It’s coming together! 💪💯👍
3 or 3.5 inch inlet 2.25 dual outlet Flowmaster super 44 , xforceusa , spintech performance mufflers.If you leave the controlbox outside moisture will find it's way in there good find.The exhaust problem is the transmission factory shift points an upgrade would be a nice addition but also you have a truck exhaust on so you know you know.There is an blockage in the input shaft that keeps the transmission fluid from going back into the transmission everything will be alright but removing that blockage improves holding pressure and helps to reduce temps in the torque converter better temps overall.5 w20 in the winter that will bring the heat back even a butt warmer the 160 degree thermostat will be really nice when it gets hot outside.Damn you have a GTA with disk brakes that work well and t tops really awsome.Have fun with it and put Firehawk decals na you can't it's not a formula GTA then.Don't forget the 3 impulse when braking 3rd brake light addition that looks good f1 even but gives the appearance that the car is moving very quickly even when it's not.I'm going to do it and I think it really would create an awesome stand out from the rest of the cars and trucks on the road 💯.
Yeah I hear what you mean around 46:00 about the exhaust... My third gen camaro sounds a bit like that as well. On my 6th gen, with the LT1, it. did not sound anything like that, I wonder if it has to do with the pipes being so wide and the complete openness of the system. My 6th gen sounded super pure. Wondering this since i'm putting the LT1 in my third gen soon.
Magnaflow is the answer, especially paired with a resonator
Good job Matt!!!
Hey Matt, you make me regret the dart 383 I'm putting in my 84. Should have bit the bullet and gone LS or LT.
2 comments.
On those leaking band clamps, use you template and cut a few layers of heavy duty aluminum foil. You can spray adhesive them and stack them.
On the neck down at the muffler, i have cut the inlet above the neck down and used a lisle heavy duty expander to make it restriction match the pipe. I'm not even sure you would need to cut the nipple off first. Worth a try.
A vibrant resonator might help with the raspberry blowing exhaust.
I was never happy with exhaust until I spent the money on Borla. Just a single S Type muffler is deep and throaty with none of the farting.
(2) Words... FLOW MONSTER! Same as the original "FLOWMASTER"!
iI run the single 3" in dual 2.5 out just straight muffler, no turn downs or anything.. Sounds good, deep rumble...
Gonna get a single 4" dual 3" out eventually when i do the 4" back... May do 4"in/out with a single hideaway, i dunno, maybe a 50series Flowmaster or super 40 one... Probably Hawks sinister 4" pipe connected from some ARH Stainless headers, factory routing to the Flowmaster/Monster...
Run that battery ground to one of the starter mounting bolts. I know it's a pain, but it really needs to be as close to the starter as possible.
I copied the way you did your battery relocation wiring and had issues as well, for me it was the ground. i ending up just running a wire all the way to the engine from the battery and that fixed the problem
I had that same raspiness that you don't like, I ended up putting a resonator in and it toned out nicely and still sounded mean.
Needs an x pipe and dual outlets with 3” echo chambers. Possibly a resonance chamber as well.
Doesn't sound terrible.. could be better tho Matt. All in all coming together really nicely. No more jack stands 24'! 😂
Could you get some rubber insulators for your battery box to absorb the vibrations and movement
My 87 has a 305 and also has an open diff, they were kind of the budget cars that were supposed to look cool but drive slow and get good gas mileage.
Loving the content! new sub for sure, shoutouts to you from Puerto Rico.
Have you driven it enough to tell if the the catalytic converter you installed is helping?
What a great way to start a Sunday!
I like that you clean the garage! You really gonna pump out the work now!
What’s up with the sway bars in front on the floor?
Are those the helwigs?
Are they for sale?
Yea they’re helwigs that I had on the Tahoe. I was initially going to sell them but now I’m probably going to put them back on.
So the steering wheel doesnt spin, but better yet you hold it in place for it to turn?? Am i saying it right…….either way thats pretty cool and was one of the main reasons along with direct injection, that has kept me away from LT swap….but i have seen the direct injection block off plates and intake that have port injection like a LS….
Sweet bro keep them videos coming
The “ raspy/poopy “ sound from your exhaust could just be how the tip is echoing. Maybe replace the last 6-12” of the tailpipe with something slightly larger in diameter. Maybe double walled. That ought to fix that a bit.
I know opinions can change as you drive it more but if you had to do another engine swap on a 3rd gen, would you do another LT or LS? Which one do you prefer? Great content. Looking forward to more!
If you won't nice tone and high flow go with magna flow duel pipes out let
The dynomax always sounded better after time. If it's still a packed muffler it will change. I have the hooker tfx 3rd gen system.. Sounds great if they still make it.
Big exhaust piping made sound difficult for me as well i run two moroso mufflers sounds good finally
Part number 94052
One more. Look at the timing advance on cranking. Too much can cause slow cranking.
My 17 Silverado starts just like that. They are high compression I think that’s just the way they start
Bring The Escalade Back 😂.
Curious, maybe you need a cat for both banks of cylinders? I put a magnaflow resonator And flowmaster 80 series on my car. Trying to kill the rasp of my 3.1 v6. My next step to fix mine is a 5.3 lol. But I have wondered what a cat for each bank would do for mine.
First one. Boya
I think you described the sound of the exhaust pretty good I've been through the same thing with exhaust on a 88 Trans Am the only thing I could add to it is it sounds like hammered dog s*** hammered dogshit😂😅 but love to build keep up the good work
Any progress on the astra recently? haven't heard much about it.
How are you lifting that car with the Quickjack? Do you have the pinch weld accessory pads?
Don’t have the special pinch weld blocks, I’m just using the low position on the truck adapters. They’re basically the same as the round pads on a 2 post lift.
Single exhaust outlet is kinda sleeper status.
Until you step on the loud pedal
49:51 NY in a nutshell if any of you have never been.
Clappy fart cannon. LMAO😅😅😅
I would have done a Magnaflow or Dynomax with twin pipes out the same side ala 2OTL but that's me. Everything sounds better than a flowmaster.
Well, I SEE what your problem is... it's that skunky green bottle beer you're tugging on. Friends don't let friends drink skunky beer.
You need to build a custom resonator. There's an App that will tell you which frequency you need, then you can Google how long a tube you will need
Next video 0-60 😂, Dyno fuel economy . I can’t believe you forgot why most people are here . We are all judging your performance 😂. Great work so far
I ran a glass pack in addition to the muffler to get rid of the raspy exhaust note
It also helped a lot with the drone inside the car
I wouldn't mess with exhaust tell you have it tuned on wheel dyno!
Did you use the stock driveline for both third gens?
Only thirdgen part left in the driveline is the rear. Transmission is a 6l80e, driveshaft was custom made.
Lol! My Z is on dollies so I can move it around!
Where did you get that hose piece that lets the steam port hook up to it?
Amazon, I have a link to it in my storefront down in the description. It’s in the Trans am section.
It was my understanding that all transams had limited slip rearends.Either 3.42 or 3.73 gear ratios for all 3rd T/A's.
I counted the rotations of the driveshaft, it definitely has a 2.73
My 305 TPI came stock with 2.73 LSD (89 Trans Am). The 3.73s with LSD made a huge difference.@@lsxmatt
Gotta run dual tip to get rid of the rasp
Sound like a vacuum cleaner!!!
Try what he does in this video.
ua-cam.com/video/l9CrmkIxDQU/v-deo.htmlsi=wYtjHWMOwsFuJWni
Also bringing the exhaust out to the rear bumper will help with interior sound.
Honestly I wouldn't mess with the exhaust before doing the interior, I would do the subframe before the interior so you can weld them in without worry.
Put a multimeter meter on the starter motor and ground it to the ear of the starter, watch the voltage drop, then do the same at the battery. If the values much different then you don't have enough amperage capability in the wire. First thing I would try would be jumper cables clamp it to the starter ear and negative battery.
What size battery are you running?
Stock, it’s a group 75. I planning on stealing a battery from my Tahoe. That has 740cca
Where did you get that coffee signage?
Gas station was throwing it away
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
That fart sound could be caused from having the oversized exhaust. The speed of the gas flowing through it isn’t as fast as a smaller diameter pipe. Typically why the good old PepBoys Honda mufflers sound like wet farts.
Only canadian trans ams had one wheel peels.
resonator??
What’s the amp draw on the pump with the module
I matched the wire gauge on the connector and went up one to be safe but I don’t know what it pulls. I’ll tell you one thing though, the headlights dim when turning the wheel at a stop.
@@lsxmatt
Are you running through a relay?
That’s a decent amount of draw.
I’ll look it up.
It says 6-80 amps depending on conditions.
@@petersingh4825 The Volvo control unit has a relay built in. You just need to give it direct battery voltage for the motor and a 12volt source to trigger it.
One additional "Ignorant thought". Could the spitting sound be due the sheer volume of air through only one exhaust outlet?
Maybe, someone else suggested dual outlets so I may have to try it.
Wet Fart Cannon! 🤣🤣🤣
I think you need a vibrant resonator to tame that farty rasp down
Try the torque management for the farting
👍🏽👀💪🏽
It's sounds like your heat shield is loose
We need Escalade content !
Soon, heads will be back any day now!
You need a real dual exhaust system. Until you do that you'll never be happy
we need to start a petition to throw that engine cover away
Why you wasting time on exhaust, use the slp muffler and pipes if you haven’t already from the 5.3 version of the Camaro
That steering leak stuff is total junk. It will stop the leak as it swells the rubber, but give it 6 months it will start to leak worse then before.
The repeated cranking over looking for a good ground…… I don’t hear the difference…. Sounds like some one has OCD issues 😂
Hooker Aero Chamber
I had one in the past but it was also pretty raspy