Another fine educational video. Happy to see you promoting longevity by retreating the cut ends of all the pre-treated timbers. Timber can be a lasting material when properly installed and treated. Anyone that has ever remodeled an older building has usually seen where the weakest points are found, and cut timbers are often the first place for rot to get a foothold. Looking forward to the next chapter.
It’d be a shame to go to all this trouble and not do a proper job. You’re right about old houses- I was in a 1916 house last week to remove the native timber flooring (so I can reuse it in the tiny barn) and the level of rot and insect damage in the subfloor was shocking. No wonder that house was set for demolition!
You became a DJ and didn't even know it. That was a nice mix on the birds chirping. Lol. Dan, i love your videos, super entertaining and educational. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the words of encouragement. It’s Spring here, so the birds are a little more vocal at the moment. There’s a few bellbirds living in and around the shrubs next to the brick retaining wall, and they’re pleasantly loud!
Great video! Love that you threw in the fall through the insulation. Real life situations that actually happen. You don't cut any corners that's for sure!
loving this series! appreciating the hard work gone into it. i think working on the retaining wall adjacent makes more sense since now you have a platform to hold tools and materials, and building the walls will impede your available work area.
That's a very good point, the subfloor will make a great workbench! Building the retaining wall will also make building safer as I'll have a larger flat work surface for ladders and the like.
I'm just a random person from internet with no idea how to build anything. Still, I enjoy watching you build stuff but I'm not going to say why because I don't want to influence you. In any case, you are doing really great!! 👍👍👍
Hey Dan, love the videos. It was nice to see the model of the building, would love to see some you show us on the model what you are planning to complete in the episode and how it will all connect together!
Thanks for the comment. I'll be making use of the model during future videos. I do like to 'build' the design in SketchUp; it's a great way to rehearse the process and fine tune, resulting in less head scratching during construction!
Thanks Charles👍 I’m sure there’ll be a few more instances of unfamiliar building techniques used as I try to balance an old English style of building with the NZ building code requirements!
I'll be sad when your subscriber numbers get too big because it'll reduce your comment section interaction! Great stuff once again Dan - keep it up please!
Thanks for the comment, I’m really enjoying the interactions in the comments section and feel it’s an important part of the sharing process which I hope to continue. When things get big I guess I’ll just have to be more selective about which comments to respond to, but I think we’ve got a long way to go before it becomes less manageable!
Thanks. Rain held up play for a while, but hope to get back on the job today or tomorrow. Unfortunately that means I've had time to work on the design and add even more complexity! Can't wait to get the structure built, it's going to look great (and be very useful).
Enjoying learning from your considerable building skills and great communication. Perhaps mirrors instead of just glass in your "fake" window may give a good effect.
Thanks for the encouragement. Now that is a fine idea🤔. The vision for the design is starting to come together, and I think the fake lower story may just be even more impressive looking than the barn and carport area!
I think the distnce between the ground and the subfloor (esp at the higher end) make the vapour barrier superflouous The CT200s (joist to bearer fixings) may ned 4 nail each end when they are used as truss fixings.
You're right on both points, thanks. The vapour barrier isn't technically required due to the distance between ground and subfloor, but as I'm enclosing the space and have yet to determine/calculate the ventilation area it may become a requirement, so worth the effort to fit whilst I have good access. I also want to use the space to store some wood offcuts and the like, so having the space clean is also beneficial. Just checked out the CT160s and you're right, when used as a truss fixing they do need 4 nails per end.
Learning a lot from this video, might I ask which size and kind of nails do you usually use for this treated timbers ? Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, I'm glad I found your channel.
Welcome to the channel. I'm using 90x3.15 hot dipped galvanised nails for all the framing. In NZ the building code specified hot dipped galvanised fittings for 'sheltered' areas, such as the subfloor. Technically stainless steel fittings would be superior as the copper present in the timber treatment can cause long term galvanic corrosion of the nails, but they are WAY more expensive and not required to code.
I don't understand what you were saying when you were talking about rotating the square washers (23:57). The surface area doesn't change whether they're parallel to one beam or the other, so how does the holding power change based on their orientation? Thanks for a wonderful 37 minutes!
Thanks for picking up on that, it is small detail (but surprisingly hard to explain!) Perhaps a poor choice of words on my part, as rotating the washer doesn't increase its holding power but rather it increases the resistance from the timber. It's due to the cellular structure of wood. Consider the wood grain running along the board. On a cellular level, wood fibres can be thought of as a bunch of straws being held tightly together. The straws are fairly easy to compress across their width, so the more straws the washer can push against the stronger the connection. The vessels have strength along their length but not so much in their connection to each other (it's easier to split a board along its width than across its length). Rotating the washer doesn't alter the contact surface area but it does increase the quantity of vessels being held under compression. Rotating by 45deg increases the width of supported timber from 50mm to 70mm, an increase of 40%! I'm not saying the holding power is increased by 40% as the straight-line length of the applied force diminishes the closer we get to the corner of the washer, but there would be an increase of some proportion nonetheless. The result is it would require more force to pull the fastener through the material (unlikely scenario), and more force to cause the material to fail/split. Great question, thanks for asking.
Need to add more protection from rot at the base of those piles to stop rot at the concrete to pile contact point ground level that's the place were it will rot. Not just on tocp of the pile. It's the same as a fence post it always rots at the post to concrete point.
Yes, that will be the failure point however additional treatment to the timber would have no benefit as NZ still uses CCA treated timber which is very effective at resisting rot. Treatments are available in a range of 'intensity'' identified as 'H' levels (Hazard class). For example, H1.2 would be lightly treated timber for occasional moisture exposure (such as framing for the walls), H3.2 which is used for exposed timbers that will get frequently wet (such as deck structures and exposed rafters) all the way up to H6 treatment where the timber is constantly exposed to sea water (such as marine jetties). These timber piles are treated to H5 class, which is independently certified by the Building Research Association NZ as being suitable for in ground applications with a durability of well over 50 years. The purpose of adding the DPC between pile and bearer is provide separation between the H5 pile and H3 treated joist, although not needed to code.
@@Bierrr I will be using that method for the posts on the other side of the structure, but as these foundations are supporting a building and not just a roof structure, the cast-in bracket isn't specified in the Code. I'd be uneasy as to how the pivot point at the bracket to post connection would act during an earthquake, and wouldn't be able to add the cross bracing as only one bolt hole through the pile is allowable. Interestingly concrete foundation with a timber jack stud is allowed, which would provide the same pivot point...🤔
Thanks. What's more bizarre is that I'm trying to make a structure that looks old and run-down, something that shows its age. Rickety and worn is the aesthetic, yet I agonise over 0.5mm. What's wrong with me!!!!!!
Another fine educational video. Happy to see you promoting longevity by retreating the cut ends of all the pre-treated timbers. Timber can be a lasting material when properly installed and treated. Anyone that has ever remodeled an older building has usually seen where the weakest points are found, and cut timbers are often the first place for rot to get a foothold. Looking forward to the next chapter.
It’d be a shame to go to all this trouble and not do a proper job. You’re right about old houses- I was in a 1916 house last week to remove the native timber flooring (so I can reuse it in the tiny barn) and the level of rot and insect damage in the subfloor was shocking. No wonder that house was set for demolition!
@@danwaterson356 Nice to hear you were able to save some timber from the old house.
thanks, these latest few videos have been a treat
Glad you’re liking the project. 👍
You became a DJ and didn't even know it. That was a nice mix on the birds chirping. Lol. Dan, i love your videos, super entertaining and educational. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the words of encouragement. It’s Spring here, so the birds are a little more vocal at the moment. There’s a few bellbirds living in and around the shrubs next to the brick retaining wall, and they’re pleasantly loud!
Great video! Love that you threw in the fall through the insulation. Real life situations that actually happen. You don't cut any corners that's for sure!
Thanks. I’m actually quite clumsy and despite trying to step over the string line……. That’s life!
Your explanations of the local building codes are really interesting
Thanks. The information is all out there, but often quite difficult to find and nearly as hard to decipher!
Дякую, за цікаве та інформативне відео.
Чекаю продовження будівництва.
Дякуємо за коментар. Схоже, у мене є кілька годин на роботу сьогодні, перш ніж пішов дощ.
loving this series! appreciating the hard work gone into it. i think working on the retaining wall adjacent makes more sense since now you have a platform to hold tools and materials, and building the walls will impede your available work area.
That's a very good point, the subfloor will make a great workbench! Building the retaining wall will also make building safer as I'll have a larger flat work surface for ladders and the like.
I'm just a random person from internet with no idea how to build anything. Still, I enjoy watching you build stuff but I'm not going to say why because I don't want to influence you. In any case, you are doing really great!! 👍👍👍
Oh but you have influenced me, simply by commenting I'm more likely to continue making videos! Glad you're enjoying the content.
@@danwaterson356 😅😁
Great job Dan...
Thanks, now for some more digging of trenches…..
Wonderful work as always. Loving the attention to detail; it's what really elevates good to great.
Thank you. Details do matter!
Really great, quailty content
Thanks, appreciate the comment.
Really enjoying watching the progress on this project
👍 Time to start building the retaining structure next me thinks.
Hey Dan, love the videos. It was nice to see the model of the building, would love to see some you show us on the model what you are planning to complete in the episode and how it will all connect together!
Thanks for the comment. I'll be making use of the model during future videos. I do like to 'build' the design in SketchUp; it's a great way to rehearse the process and fine tune, resulting in less head scratching during construction!
Nicely done, thanks for the explanation of why you made the decisions you did. Charles
Thanks Charles👍 I’m sure there’ll be a few more instances of unfamiliar building techniques used as I try to balance an old English style of building with the NZ building code requirements!
Loving these videos, definitely hearing some potteries in the accent!
Well spotted. It’s still buried deep in there somewhere!
Beau travail 👍
Merci beaucoup
I'll be sad when your subscriber numbers get too big because it'll reduce your comment section interaction! Great stuff once again Dan - keep it up please!
Thanks for the comment, I’m really enjoying the interactions in the comments section and feel it’s an important part of the sharing process which I hope to continue. When things get big I guess I’ll just have to be more selective about which comments to respond to, but I think we’ve got a long way to go before it becomes less manageable!
another great video :)
👍 thanks so much.
Well done great work really enjoying the project 🇬🇧
Thanks. Rain held up play for a while, but hope to get back on the job today or tomorrow. Unfortunately that means I've had time to work on the design and add even more complexity! Can't wait to get the structure built, it's going to look great (and be very useful).
Эй! Вы пробили изоляцию в том же месте, где упала циркулярная пила! Это не совпадение! Вызовите местного поставщика экзорцистских услуг! 😁
Ха! Я этого не заметил! На самом деле, во время сборки я уронил балку в том же самом положении… жутко!
@@danwaterson356 Позовите специалиста - кота!😸
Кот просто неодобрительно плакал!
Enjoying learning from your considerable building skills and great communication. Perhaps mirrors instead of just glass in your "fake" window may give a good effect.
Thanks for the encouragement. Now that is a fine idea🤔. The vision for the design is starting to come together, and I think the fake lower story may just be even more impressive looking than the barn and carport area!
Liked & Subbed. 🤝🏼
Thanks and welcome to the channel.
You deliberately put your foot through the insulation to make us mere mortals feel better about ourselves.. 🤣🤣
Ha! If only that were true!🤣
Maybe you can put old style wooden window shutters instead of glass "downstairs". Might look good.🙂
Hadn't thought of that 🤔 I do have a few ideas but they're still fermenting. Shutters now added to the melting pot of options 👍
I think the distnce between the ground and the subfloor (esp at the higher end) make the vapour barrier superflouous The CT200s (joist to bearer fixings) may ned 4 nail each end when they are used as truss fixings.
You're right on both points, thanks. The vapour barrier isn't technically required due to the distance between ground and subfloor, but as I'm enclosing the space and have yet to determine/calculate the ventilation area it may become a requirement, so worth the effort to fit whilst I have good access. I also want to use the space to store some wood offcuts and the like, so having the space clean is also beneficial.
Just checked out the CT160s and you're right, when used as a truss fixing they do need 4 nails per end.
@danwaterson356 understood I think I would do the exactly same too
Great job Dan, what are your plans for the retaining wall? Similar to the other one…
Chur Bro 😂😂😂😂
Ha, not likely - been there, done that. I’ve got a much more crazy plan for this one…😬
Спасибо большое интересно
👍Сегодня приступаем к следующему этапу сборки. Всего наилучшего.
Learning a lot from this video, might I ask which size and kind of nails do you usually use for this treated timbers ? Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge, I'm glad I found your channel.
Welcome to the channel. I'm using 90x3.15 hot dipped galvanised nails for all the framing. In NZ the building code specified hot dipped galvanised fittings for 'sheltered' areas, such as the subfloor. Technically stainless steel fittings would be superior as the copper present in the timber treatment can cause long term galvanic corrosion of the nails, but they are WAY more expensive and not required to code.
🇰🇷 응원합니다
나의 한국 친구를 환영합니다. 구독자 4만명 달성해서 좋네요!
@@danwaterson356
4만명 축하합니다
빨리 10만 갑시다
I don't understand what you were saying when you were talking about rotating the square washers (23:57). The surface area doesn't change whether they're parallel to one beam or the other, so how does the holding power change based on their orientation?
Thanks for a wonderful 37 minutes!
Thanks for picking up on that, it is small detail (but surprisingly hard to explain!) Perhaps a poor choice of words on my part, as rotating the washer doesn't increase its holding power but rather it increases the resistance from the timber. It's due to the cellular structure of wood. Consider the wood grain running along the board. On a cellular level, wood fibres can be thought of as a bunch of straws being held tightly together. The straws are fairly easy to compress across their width, so the more straws the washer can push against the stronger the connection. The vessels have strength along their length but not so much in their connection to each other (it's easier to split a board along its width than across its length). Rotating the washer doesn't alter the contact surface area but it does increase the quantity of vessels being held under compression. Rotating by 45deg increases the width of supported timber from 50mm to 70mm, an increase of 40%! I'm not saying the holding power is increased by 40% as the straight-line length of the applied force diminishes the closer we get to the corner of the washer, but there would be an increase of some proportion nonetheless. The result is it would require more force to pull the fastener through the material (unlikely scenario), and more force to cause the material to fail/split.
Great question, thanks for asking.
@@danwaterson356 - I thought everyone knew that! 🙄
@@danwaterson356 Perfect, thank you. That was what I'd considered after a few hours musing, so I appreciate you clarifying!
It looks like it would survive an asteroid strike let alone an earthquake.. 😂
In this day and age anything's possible! Who knows what might pass through that portal from another world.......
How about an infinity mirror under the deck giving the impression of a mine-shaft or a portal to another world.
Mine shaft?! Portal?! That blows my mind,..... I love that idea.
Need to add more protection from rot at the base of those piles to stop rot at the concrete to pile contact point ground level that's the place were it will rot. Not just on tocp of the pile. It's the same as a fence post it always rots at the post to concrete point.
Yes, that will be the failure point however additional treatment to the timber would have no benefit as NZ still uses CCA treated timber which is very effective at resisting rot. Treatments are available in a range of 'intensity'' identified as 'H' levels (Hazard class). For example, H1.2 would be lightly treated timber for occasional moisture exposure (such as framing for the walls), H3.2 which is used for exposed timbers that will get frequently wet (such as deck structures and exposed rafters) all the way up to H6 treatment where the timber is constantly exposed to sea water (such as marine jetties). These timber piles are treated to H5 class, which is independently certified by the Building Research Association NZ as being suitable for in ground applications with a durability of well over 50 years. The purpose of adding the DPC between pile and bearer is provide separation between the H5 pile and H3 treated joist, although not needed to code.
@@danwaterson356 Why did you not opt for setting a stainless steel bracket in the concrete?
@@Bierrr I will be using that method for the posts on the other side of the structure, but as these foundations are supporting a building and not just a roof structure, the cast-in bracket isn't specified in the Code. I'd be uneasy as to how the pivot point at the bracket to post connection would act during an earthquake, and wouldn't be able to add the cross bracing as only one bolt hole through the pile is allowable. Interestingly concrete foundation with a timber jack stud is allowed, which would provide the same pivot point...🤔
@danwaterson356 that's true but there is only 600mm max to the next "post" and of course Jack framing can be clad with structural ply
0.5mm out of square.. Ya amateur, either do it properly or don't bother at all. 😂😂Another fantastic video mate 👍🏻
Thanks. What's more bizarre is that I'm trying to make a structure that looks old and run-down, something that shows its age. Rickety and worn is the aesthetic, yet I agonise over 0.5mm. What's wrong with me!!!!!!
@@danwaterson356 😝