Man Tom is one hell of a craftsman. I know it’s just a simple deck, but it was done beautifully and will last a lifetime. Love those banisters, and the Brazilian Ipe turned out great with the stain.
Anyone taking on this project themselves should add flashing that goes behind the siding and over you ledger board. The way they showed you here has all of the water from the siding shedding directly on the ledger. You don't want that to be the first board that rots.
I literally came on here to say the same thing about the flashing. American wood council recommends flashing past the joist hangers as well. And the lag bolts attaching the ledger should be 1/2”. I’m not a professional or anything i’ve just been reading haha
What a privilege and cherished memory of a lifetime to have the old guard TOH legend Tom Silva helping you with building your deck. I've always admired his seemingly boundless expertise that comes from 50-some years of practical know-how and applied fieldwork. He makes it all look easy but it surely isn't. You're the man Tommy!
7:19 don't do that Tommy knows better. Pressure treated lumber varies as much as 5/8 of an inch in height. Each hanger needs to be set to account for that. The best practice is to toe nail each joist then install the hangers after
When you run a snap line that is level all the way across as Tommy did, and you position the top of the board to that snap line, the top of the board is level all the way across.
@@scotttovey My read of Justin's comment is that the joist hanger bottoms need to be adjusted to reflect the specific board being placed, so the single cutoff block used won't be a good gauge of where the joist hangers should be placed. Am I misunderstanding?
With respect and my comment is based on my experience as a business person involved with building decks for residential homes. I found that if one mounts the final, what I call a fascia board to finish off the steps or face edge of a deck that that facia board should be overlapped on top by the last top deck board. not as you have applied. And most often you can buy that last board with a smooth edge or without a grove to complete this part of the project. Biggest or main reason is that after a year or so dirt, sand, tree seeds, organic material in general gets in between this final exposed edge. It is even worse for composite material which under the sun will flex outward most times leaving an edge again susceptible to gathering dirt or sand, etc. Then seeds start to grow in that grove leaving a yearly task of cleaning out that exposed grove. Once experienced I changed my application to measure the top board requirement and cutting the first board at the house edge to accommodate a 1/2 inch overlap at the fascia end. Just saying.
That only works on the long edge of the last board. What about covering the mounting grooves that are visible on the short edges of all boards. How would you cover those if not with one long plank ?
ie how do you cover the end cut that has visible grooves for mounting clips? People either connect a fascia or do a picture frame and the overhang. Any other alternatives ?
In East Sacramento, the soil is about 12" deep, then you hit hardpan. Basically sandstone. A bear to get through. Some places 100' thick. I used that the my advantage though, under the house. Just dug post holes 2 foot down to the 5' thick hardpan, jacked up beams, and leveled the house. House now sits on stone.
Silva's attention to detail and quality is of the highest standard. I've used so many of his teachings in my own builds. Intellectual generosity of that man is just immense.
If you don't already know it, you need to use specialized joist hanger nails. They are beefy but not long, since they only have to hold to the 2x material. Might not have been obvious when they were going in. Hand nail or use powered nailer as shown.
I’m surprised they never even used hurricane ties. Standard for all my decks no matter the size. Also never saw any sealing of the pressure treated ends.
@@Guardducks No problem if nails are longer (16d=3 1/2" long, 0.148" dia. shank), and stick out past framing member, unless for some reason they would be visible past the finished deck and would be a hazard for tripping, cutting someone, or catching on something moving.
@@WoogieboogieOG labour costs. The manufacturer can dip dozens of boards, or spray them in a rotating drum in seconds. And if out in the field it should rain?
My dad was a can do guy, but he was burned badly when I was very young so he couldn’t really use his hands, he was in bad shape. I mention this to say like many out there I didn’t have a dad that would teach me things, but I was lucky enough to have a dad until I was in my early 20s which was a miracle being he was burned over 85%. Now look, I’m not saying Tom Silva was like a father to me, I’m not nuts, but Tom often did fill in the gap my own dad could not via the marvels of modern tech. My dad and I spent many Sunday mornings watching This Old House Together, found memories. Rip to my Pops and shout out Tom Silva.
Ipe is rainforest wood. Buy thermally modified decking instead - it's more sustainable. Otherwise, I love the care these homeowners put into the design... and it's priceless to have the This Old House help bring the idea to life.
We have a 28 year old ipe deck which I have let age. It is structurally as sound today as it was 28 years ago. If it had been a covered deck I’m convinced it would have maintained the natural wood staining. I used deck hangers eliminating all fasteners on the walking surface.
I have 3 questions: 1: shouldn’t the ledger have a head flashing - so water doesn’t go between ledger and house? 2: aren’t notched posts for railings no longer allowed? 3: don’t deck builders start away from the house so that ripped boards don’t end up near the outside edge (in this case it looks like it worked doing from the house out)
i also thought notched posts were also not allowed. When I redid my railing a few years ago, they couldn't be notched as per 2015 guides or whatever it was called.
1: Yes. "Z" flashing should be used in a fashion to sit under the siding (which they had yet to re-install), lay over the top of the ledger board and the drip portion hanging over the edge. 2: Notched post may still be allowed in some areas, but in my opinion, any elevated deck that requires a railing (30 plus inches above grade), should have the posts mounted inside the outer joists and rim joist, blocked properly and even secured with lateral tension ties. You'll have to notch a few deck boards and you'll lose a tiny bit of deck area, but way more solid than any exterior mounted posts. 3: You can eliminate the need to rip a deck board (at the house or at the outer edge) by simply leaving your joists uncut. Prep your frame minus the outer rim joist, begin decking at the house, and when you're within 3 boards of the edge, measure out the width of 3 boards, subtract 1.5" for the width thickness of your rim joist, and subtract whatever amount necessary for fascia and overhang (if browing out slightly over the edge). Snap a line, cut your joists, add your rim joist and you'll have a perfect edge without any ripped deck boards.
@@jmodified International Residential Code states 30". Although some states, cities, and municipalities may have alterations to the code, but that's the standard rule.
When I built my 14 x 16 deck, I put the 4 x 6 beams right on top of the posts. Deck is now 39 years old, and still works great. The ratchet to straighten the railing post was clever.
I've recently seen suggestions to use waterproof tape along the top of deck beams to increase their longevity by preventing water from sitting directly on the top of the joists. I think the consideration is also that the water isn't then held tightly by the decking against the beams, which would accelerate rot.
I just took a look at the PT frame of my 30 year old deck, the joists have zero evidence of any rot whatsoever. Not an inch of waterproof tape in sight...
@@billymacktexasdetective5827 Some decks might be just fine - there are many factors involved. In my case, working for a new home builder, the extra few dollars to add Protectadeck is insurance against future warranty claims. I also live in an extremely rainy area (last year we had about 120 inches), so prolonged weather exposure is an ongoing risk.
I like to lay out all the deck boards convex-side (or future convex side) up and jigsaw-puzzle the order and orientation to get minimal gaps. That way you're not fighting the natural curves (and shapes - some will vary slightly in width along the length) when you install them.
We are in the process of building a new home,and you guys give me so many ideas.I love your programs. Do you have any ideas on front doors,l am thinking of having some glass. I will be happy,and thanks to all of you,great program ❤❤❤
Awesome layout procedure. Great consulting the local Code enforcement official. The ledger nailing was sketchy. Recommend consulting a professional here. Structural screws are recommended. The direction perpendicular to the ledger is important as well. This requires a look at the house floor framing to insure it is sufficiently connected providing a load path into the deck diaphragms.
I would have covered the PT beams with the same Grace Tape that was used on the house and the same with all the joists. I know they're PT, but it really saves the top of that lumber.
That is absolutely correct. Anyone who has demoed a deck will see the rot at the nails or screws. Tommy, Tommy--Can't pre mount joist hangers since the lumber always vary in size up to 1/4 inch
I believe they are hungry for youtube money. BTW Ricardo I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe. I got it in my about tab.
Shouldn’t there have been some ledger flashing or z flashing installed to keep any water from getting behind the ledger board? I know the house had flashing, but seems like most would still put something to keep water from getting back there and rotting the ledger or seeping in the nail and anchor holes.
clearly on the Cape based on the soil...Go about 50 miles east and you can't use that auger machine. All by hand with a spud bar. Tommy is a master though.
If you are in a wildfire area, you want to make sure that nothing like leaves accumulates under the deck to burn and take your house. Maybe some screens behind the skirting they put in.
What about the flashing on the ledger board? What about some type of waterproofing on top of the beams before installing deck boards? I love this channel, but this makes me question install quality with other instruction.
They didn't show it like they should have, but likely eventually covered that gap with some heavy flashing/drip edge - guess the homeowner was supposed to do it because it hadn't been done as of yet in the final picture. Definitely should have sealed the beam tops though!
Ive spent many Sunday afternoons as a child falling asleep to this TV show. Something about the vibes of the show is just so relaxing to me.
Retired union carpenter here 42 years in the trade for instructional, commercial and residential work. Tom Silva is golden ! best of the best
Tommy is by far the best Boston American to ever exist hands down.
Even after 40 years of doing this, Tommy ALWAYS teaches me something NEW. Gorgeous deck, both in design and execution. Thank you for this video.
Man Tom is one hell of a craftsman. I know it’s just a simple deck, but it was done beautifully and will last a lifetime. Love those banisters, and the Brazilian Ipe turned out great with the stain.
Tom is a pleasure to watch every time. He is that uncle I wish I had!!
I been watching Tom for awhile now. He makes the most complicated project seem easy. When he explained things very simple and straight forward!
Anyone taking on this project themselves should add flashing that goes behind the siding and over you ledger board. The way they showed you here has all of the water from the siding shedding directly on the ledger. You don't want that to be the first board that rots.
Yeah my inspector just noted that on my presale. Wish I would have known originally
I literally came on here to say the same thing about the flashing. American wood council recommends flashing past the joist hangers as well. And the lag bolts attaching the ledger should be 1/2”. I’m not a professional or anything i’ve just been reading haha
What a privilege and cherished memory of a lifetime to have the old guard TOH legend Tom Silva helping you with building your deck. I've always admired his seemingly boundless expertise that comes from 50-some years of practical know-how and applied fieldwork. He makes it all look easy but it surely isn't. You're the man Tommy!
Is it important to have gravel under the deck?
It is great pleasure to watch
ASK THIS OLD HOUSE and
TOM SILVA.
7:19 don't do that Tommy knows better. Pressure treated lumber varies as much as 5/8 of an inch in height. Each hanger needs to be set to account for that. The best practice is to toe nail each joist then install the hangers after
Yes I learned that the hard way and never did it again!
When you run a snap line that is level all the way across as Tommy did, and you position the top of the board to that snap line, the top of the board is level all the way across.
@@scotttovey My read of Justin's comment is that the joist hanger bottoms need to be adjusted to reflect the specific board being placed, so the single cutoff block used won't be a good gauge of where the joist hangers should be placed. Am I misunderstanding?
@@dosadoodle
If he had been that specific and clear,
neither of us would have commented.
@@dosadoodle
I went to the time he posted, you are correct.
It took a Portuguese guy , Tom Silva to show how a true professional and experienced carptender can build a deck. Well done Tom.
Tom Silva, nuff said! I used to watch him as a teen, 54 now and still admire his problem solving gift.
A master at work. Beautiful work.
With respect and my comment is based on my experience as a business person involved with building decks for residential homes. I found that if one mounts the final, what I call a fascia board to finish off the steps or face edge of a deck that that facia board should be overlapped on top by the last top deck board. not as you have applied. And most often you can buy that last board with a smooth edge or without a grove to complete this part of the project. Biggest or main reason is that after a year or so dirt, sand, tree seeds, organic material in general gets in between this final exposed edge. It is even worse for composite material which under the sun will flex outward most times leaving an edge again susceptible to gathering dirt or sand, etc. Then seeds start to grow in that grove leaving a yearly task of cleaning out that exposed grove. Once experienced I changed my application to measure the top board requirement and cutting the first board at the house edge to accommodate a 1/2 inch overlap at the fascia end. Just saying.
very logical
That only works on the long edge of the last board. What about covering the mounting grooves that are visible on the short edges of all boards. How would you cover those if not with one long plank ?
ie how do you cover the end cut that has visible grooves for mounting clips? People either connect a fascia or do a picture frame and the overhang. Any other alternatives ?
Always loved watching this old house, always does a class A job.. Beautiful job on the new deck..
Guy just built an unbelievable deck, incredibly skilled
A classic plumbers lament, lol, brings a smile every time I hear it 😄
@Ben Jones What can go wrong will go wrong
Mr.Silva best contractor ever 👍🙏
Tommy Silva is the man
There’s something very satisfying about watching this guy work. Great pro
Looked like the home owners hadn't done a lot of wood work, but they were game to try. Great workmanship .
Silva does great work! 👍👍👍
Kevin taught him all he knows. Lol or was it the little kids who learn quickly ?
@@Guardducksthat should have taken a day or two. I remember when Kevin came on. I was thinking wtf this guy was doing among giants but he grew on me.
That was awesome to see the homeowners teaming up with Tommy to get it built! Great job!!
Ironwood on the deck - pretty awesome
That’s a very handsome design as well
Not readiy available in California.
The young lady is fearless! Good to see.
Excellent show. Thank You
Man Tom is incredible. I wouldn't want levels in the deck but, to each their own
Man, they have great soil there. That dirt looked like top soil that I have to pay for
Haaaaa,, right,,, thinking the same thing! Need to box it up and sell it on line!
In East Sacramento, the soil is about 12" deep, then you hit hardpan. Basically sandstone. A bear to get through. Some places 100' thick.
I used that the my advantage though, under the house. Just dug post holes 2 foot down to the 5' thick hardpan, jacked up beams, and leveled the house. House now sits on stone.
The watch the art of perfection
Love Tommy and his work. My one critique would be: there should be sealing tape on top of every joist. Beautiful deck.
Silva's attention to detail and quality is of the highest standard. I've used so many of his teachings in my own builds. Intellectual generosity of that man is just immense.
If you don't already know it, you need to use specialized joist hanger nails. They are beefy but not long, since they only have to hold to the 2x material. Might not have been obvious when they were going in. Hand nail or use powered nailer as shown.
Tito's......
Would 16 penny nails be too long?
I’m surprised they never even used hurricane ties. Standard for all my decks no matter the size. Also never saw any sealing of the pressure treated ends.
@@Guardducks No problem if nails are longer (16d=3 1/2" long, 0.148" dia. shank), and stick out past framing member, unless for some reason they would be visible past the finished deck and would be a hazard for tripping, cutting someone, or catching on something moving.
@@customrenovations4363 no lateral tension ties to secure the deck joist in and through to the house floor joists as well.
I like this show. PBS introduced a lot of quality ideas and shows to my life over the years. Thank you
Ayyyye, full episodes. Let's go 💪🏽👍
LFG!!! 💪🦅
Looks like their deck will be worth more than their house, with all that ipe
I was thinking the same thing. Also all those dove tails. That's deck all in all probably cost around 50 to 70 thousand $
“If we were gonna do that in the field that’s a lotta work, so we had the manufacturer do it” for 178$ a board….
@@WoogieboogieOG labour costs. The manufacturer can dip dozens of boards, or spray them in a rotating drum in seconds.
And if out in the field it should rain?
Ipe?
@@corssecurity labor*
My dad was a can do guy, but he was burned badly when I was very young so he couldn’t really use his hands, he was in bad shape. I mention this to say like many out there I didn’t have a dad that would teach me things, but I was lucky enough to have a dad until I was in my early 20s which was a miracle being he was burned over 85%.
Now look, I’m not saying Tom Silva was like a father to me, I’m not nuts, but Tom often did fill in the gap my own dad could not via the marvels of modern tech. My dad and I spent many Sunday mornings watching This Old House Together, found memories.
Rip to my Pops and shout out Tom Silva.
Ipe is rainforest wood. Buy thermally modified decking instead - it's more sustainable. Otherwise, I love the care these homeowners put into the design... and it's priceless to have the This Old House help bring the idea to life.
Mmmmm, Brazilian hardwood. Super sustainable.
thank you. I have a question, wasn't the expandable bolt that was inside the concrete short?
Backfill around the concrete forms with limestone and use the removed soil for a raised garden bed or compost pile.
Wow, ipei boards. Those are so expensive and beautiful. Amazing work
Wow great job Tommy.
I wish 2:35 was better explained, to show us how to get and ensure square.
It's called the 3-4-5 method.
No.2 Also Use G-Tape on the top of your joists and your framing it will help with no rotting. It's been out for 5 years or so. It works Great.
Tom is the goat. Great video y'all!
We have a 28 year old ipe deck which I have let age. It is structurally as sound today as it was 28 years ago. If it had been a covered deck I’m convinced it would have maintained the natural wood staining. I used deck hangers eliminating all fasteners on the walking surface.
I have 3 questions:
1: shouldn’t the ledger have a head flashing - so water doesn’t go between ledger and house?
2: aren’t notched posts for railings no longer allowed?
3: don’t deck builders start away from the house so that ripped boards don’t end up near the outside edge (in this case it looks like it worked doing from the house out)
i also thought notched posts were also not allowed. When I redid my railing a few years ago, they couldn't be notched as per 2015 guides or whatever it was called.
1: Yes. "Z" flashing should be used in a fashion to sit under the siding (which they had yet to re-install), lay over the top of the ledger board and the drip portion hanging over the edge.
2: Notched post may still be allowed in some areas, but in my opinion, any elevated deck that requires a railing (30 plus inches above grade), should have the posts mounted inside the outer joists and rim joist, blocked properly and even secured with lateral tension ties. You'll have to notch a few deck boards and you'll lose a tiny bit of deck area, but way more solid than any exterior mounted posts.
3: You can eliminate the need to rip a deck board (at the house or at the outer edge) by simply leaving your joists uncut. Prep your frame minus the outer rim joist, begin decking at the house, and when you're within 3 boards of the edge, measure out the width of 3 boards, subtract 1.5" for the width thickness of your rim joist, and subtract whatever amount necessary for fascia and overhang (if browing out slightly over the edge). Snap a line, cut your joists, add your rim joist and you'll have a perfect edge without any ripped deck boards.
@@driveman6490 Nice tips, but you forgot to mention that tip #3 only works when you're building a cantilevered deck.
@@driveman6490 You can go 30 inches above grade without a railing? Here it is 18 inches.
@@jmodified International Residential Code states 30". Although some states, cities, and municipalities may have alterations to the code, but that's the standard rule.
If I could be half the craftsman of Tommy!
Tom is who you call a pro!
Deck worth more than the house. Love it!
Tom. Get yourself a ratchet and socket. 😂 Just busting chops. Love This Old House
👍🏼 Nice! I wouldn’t have split the deck with a step tho.
Such a great a video. Absolutely one of the best.
When I built my 14 x 16 deck, I put the 4 x 6 beams right on top of the posts. Deck is now 39 years old, and still works great.
The ratchet to straighten the railing post was clever.
Favorite episode guys.
As usual, amazing and infuriating. Tommy has a tool and solution for everything! Incredible. Great episode, I learned a lot.
I really wanted to see what type and method Tom used for ledger board flashing, but didn't see it in the video.
I've recently seen suggestions to use waterproof tape along the top of deck beams to increase their longevity by preventing water from sitting directly on the top of the joists. I think the consideration is also that the water isn't then held tightly by the decking against the beams, which would accelerate rot.
We use a product called "protectadeck" in Australia. Basically a rubber strip that runs along the top of a joist.
I've got a 25-year-old cedar deck built on PT framing without that waterproof tape. Deck is still standing and doing well.
I just took a look at the PT frame of my 30 year old deck, the joists have zero evidence of any rot whatsoever. Not an inch of waterproof tape in sight...
A lot of people use G-tape I believe it’s called. It seems overkill, but it helps maintain your deck
@@billymacktexasdetective5827 Some decks might be just fine - there are many factors involved. In my case, working for a new home builder, the extra few dollars to add Protectadeck is insurance against future warranty claims. I also live in an extremely rainy area (last year we had about 120 inches), so prolonged weather exposure is an ongoing risk.
Great video. Would have liked to see the stringers done step by step.
Thanks lots of on-site Bl
❤❤❤❤my favorite program on TV
Old time new englanders reminds me of my pops great trades man
I like to lay out all the deck boards convex-side (or future convex side) up and jigsaw-puzzle the order and orientation to get minimal gaps. That way you're not fighting the natural curves (and shapes - some will vary slightly in width along the length) when you install them.
Great Work!!!
Now days no one can build with this high quality especially at south states.
9:12 My grampa taught me to do this with a transparent hose filled with water. the water level does the trick.
We are in the process of building a new home,and you guys give me so many ideas.I love your programs. Do you have any ideas on front doors,l am thinking of having some glass. I will be happy,and thanks to all of you,great program ❤❤❤
Great to see Tommy doing his thing! Great LOOKING deck, but man that angled step, what a hazard. Not to mention the loss of usable space.
How is that step dangerous? I'm interested to hear your theory...
Outstanding video.
Awesome layout procedure. Great consulting the local Code enforcement official. The ledger nailing was sketchy. Recommend consulting a professional here. Structural screws are recommended. The direction perpendicular to the ledger is important as well. This requires a look at the house floor framing to insure it is sufficiently connected providing a load path into the deck diaphragms.
I don’t see how he does that it’s amazing. Good job.
Sperience Sony sperience.😉
A more recent practice I’m seeing is using zip tape or flashing tape on top of the joist and beams to prevent them from rotting on the top.
LMAO 🤣. What building inspector! After you get a permit you never see them again 😆
Depends. In Sacramento, a roof permit is just a way to make money. Same with a water heater permit.
I would have covered the PT beams with the same Grace Tape that was used on the house and the same with all the joists. I know they're PT, but it really saves the top of that lumber.
That is absolutely correct. Anyone who has demoed a deck will see the rot at the nails or screws. Tommy, Tommy--Can't pre mount joist hangers since the lumber always vary in size up to 1/4 inch
How would one attach the rail post id deck was off the second floor? How to make it firm hold and strong attachment?
Always loved watching this old house, always does a class A job.
Nice fit no kidding I only wished I could get something that close
Isn't this a re-upload?
I believe they are hungry for youtube money.
BTW Ricardo I suggest watch a 13 part series called _What on earth happened_ by Ewaranon to learn that the earth is not a globe.
I got it in my about tab.
Shouldn’t there have been some ledger flashing or z flashing installed to keep any water from getting behind the ledger board? I know the house had flashing, but seems like most would still put something to keep water from getting back there and rotting the ledger or seeping in the nail and anchor holes.
Amazing video!
How do you cover a cement floor slab floor house? What do you do to make it more of a house? Floor
Old Tommy still at it!
Tommy's kept that festool drill working longer than a cicada sleeps.
13:09 why is there a gap under that joist?
fantastic design and build proces.
Wish u guys would repost or make new video on how to cut runners for deck steps on uneven landings that the landing can't be changed an is unlevel
Which type of screws did you use to fasten the boards
clearly on the Cape based on the soil...Go about 50 miles east and you can't use that auger machine. All by hand with a spud bar. Tommy is a master though.
Here's the lesson: You can do this all by yourself...with the guidance, direction, and an experienced, paid professional contractor.
Nah, decks are easy. I bought a Sunset book on deck building. 39 years later, still fine.
Or just use Google or UA-cam. Knowledge is basically free with the internet, just have to put in the effort
@@scottslotterbeck3796 Do you really think the home owners could have pulled this off themselves?
In 6-9 backbreaking months, sure
@@leagarner3675yeah , get the guys round with a cooler of beers and this puppy would have been up in three weekends max
I want a "Tommy" deck, too. Tommy built, Tommy approved. Never goes out of style.
the man is a living legend
Master carpenter
Freakin deck is worth more than the house !!
thats a beautiful job, i wish to to that in romania too, but here is all concrete....wood is beautiful
Is that a Bostich cordless nailer? How has it held up is it as good as the new offerings.
awesome love to learn the skill
20:14 No man can resist the tug and pull just to make sure it is tight. NO MAN!
If you are in a wildfire area, you want to make sure that nothing like leaves accumulates under the deck to burn and take your house. Maybe some screens behind the skirting they put in.
ask this old house show cases the true master tradesman/craftsman!
Great Job
What about the flashing on the ledger board? What about some type of waterproofing on top of the beams before installing deck boards? I love this channel, but this makes me question install quality with other instruction.
They didn't show it like they should have, but likely eventually covered that gap with some heavy flashing/drip edge - guess the homeowner was supposed to do it because it hadn't been done as of yet in the final picture. Definitely should have sealed the beam tops though!
I used aluminum, tucked under the stucco, angled to top of the joists, then over. Z shape.