What a privilege and cherished memory of a lifetime to have the old guard TOH legend Tom Silva helping you with building your deck. I've always admired his seemingly boundless expertise that comes from 50-some years of practical know-how and applied fieldwork. He makes it all look easy but it surely isn't. You're the man Tommy!
Man Tom is one hell of a craftsman. I know it’s just a simple deck, but it was done beautifully and will last a lifetime. Love those banisters, and the Brazilian Ipe turned out great with the stain.
Anyone taking on this project themselves should add flashing that goes behind the siding and over you ledger board. The way they showed you here has all of the water from the siding shedding directly on the ledger. You don't want that to be the first board that rots.
I literally came on here to say the same thing about the flashing. American wood council recommends flashing past the joist hangers as well. And the lag bolts attaching the ledger should be 1/2”. I’m not a professional or anything i’ve just been reading haha
7:19 don't do that Tommy knows better. Pressure treated lumber varies as much as 5/8 of an inch in height. Each hanger needs to be set to account for that. The best practice is to toe nail each joist then install the hangers after
When you run a snap line that is level all the way across as Tommy did, and you position the top of the board to that snap line, the top of the board is level all the way across.
@@scotttovey My read of Justin's comment is that the joist hanger bottoms need to be adjusted to reflect the specific board being placed, so the single cutoff block used won't be a good gauge of where the joist hangers should be placed. Am I misunderstanding?
With respect and my comment is based on my experience as a business person involved with building decks for residential homes. I found that if one mounts the final, what I call a fascia board to finish off the steps or face edge of a deck that that facia board should be overlapped on top by the last top deck board. not as you have applied. And most often you can buy that last board with a smooth edge or without a grove to complete this part of the project. Biggest or main reason is that after a year or so dirt, sand, tree seeds, organic material in general gets in between this final exposed edge. It is even worse for composite material which under the sun will flex outward most times leaving an edge again susceptible to gathering dirt or sand, etc. Then seeds start to grow in that grove leaving a yearly task of cleaning out that exposed grove. Once experienced I changed my application to measure the top board requirement and cutting the first board at the house edge to accommodate a 1/2 inch overlap at the fascia end. Just saying.
That only works on the long edge of the last board. What about covering the mounting grooves that are visible on the short edges of all boards. How would you cover those if not with one long plank ?
ie how do you cover the end cut that has visible grooves for mounting clips? People either connect a fascia or do a picture frame and the overhang. Any other alternatives ?
Silva's attention to detail and quality is of the highest standard. I've used so many of his teachings in my own builds. Intellectual generosity of that man is just immense.
In East Sacramento, the soil is about 12" deep, then you hit hardpan. Basically sandstone. A bear to get through. Some places 100' thick. I used that the my advantage though, under the house. Just dug post holes 2 foot down to the 5' thick hardpan, jacked up beams, and leveled the house. House now sits on stone.
My dad was a can do guy, but he was burned badly when I was very young so he couldn’t really use his hands, he was in bad shape. I mention this to say like many out there I didn’t have a dad that would teach me things, but I was lucky enough to have a dad until I was in my early 20s which was a miracle being he was burned over 85%. Now look, I’m not saying Tom Silva was like a father to me, I’m not nuts, but Tom often did fill in the gap my own dad could not via the marvels of modern tech. My dad and I spent many Sunday mornings watching This Old House Together, found memories. Rip to my Pops and shout out Tom Silva.
Ipe is rainforest wood. Buy thermally modified decking instead - it's more sustainable. Otherwise, I love the care these homeowners put into the design... and it's priceless to have the This Old House help bring the idea to life.
When I built my 14 x 16 deck, I put the 4 x 6 beams right on top of the posts. Deck is now 39 years old, and still works great. The ratchet to straighten the railing post was clever.
@@WoogieboogieOG labour costs. The manufacturer can dip dozens of boards, or spray them in a rotating drum in seconds. And if out in the field it should rain?
We are in the process of building a new home,and you guys give me so many ideas.I love your programs. Do you have any ideas on front doors,l am thinking of having some glass. I will be happy,and thanks to all of you,great program ❤❤❤
If you don't already know it, you need to use specialized joist hanger nails. They are beefy but not long, since they only have to hold to the 2x material. Might not have been obvious when they were going in. Hand nail or use powered nailer as shown.
I’m surprised they never even used hurricane ties. Standard for all my decks no matter the size. Also never saw any sealing of the pressure treated ends.
@@Guardducks No problem if nails are longer (16d=3 1/2" long, 0.148" dia. shank), and stick out past framing member, unless for some reason they would be visible past the finished deck and would be a hazard for tripping, cutting someone, or catching on something moving.
We have a 28 year old ipe deck which I have let age. It is structurally as sound today as it was 28 years ago. If it had been a covered deck I’m convinced it would have maintained the natural wood staining. I used deck hangers eliminating all fasteners on the walking surface.
I have 3 questions: 1: shouldn’t the ledger have a head flashing - so water doesn’t go between ledger and house? 2: aren’t notched posts for railings no longer allowed? 3: don’t deck builders start away from the house so that ripped boards don’t end up near the outside edge (in this case it looks like it worked doing from the house out)
i also thought notched posts were also not allowed. When I redid my railing a few years ago, they couldn't be notched as per 2015 guides or whatever it was called.
1: Yes. "Z" flashing should be used in a fashion to sit under the siding (which they had yet to re-install), lay over the top of the ledger board and the drip portion hanging over the edge. 2: Notched post may still be allowed in some areas, but in my opinion, any elevated deck that requires a railing (30 plus inches above grade), should have the posts mounted inside the outer joists and rim joist, blocked properly and even secured with lateral tension ties. You'll have to notch a few deck boards and you'll lose a tiny bit of deck area, but way more solid than any exterior mounted posts. 3: You can eliminate the need to rip a deck board (at the house or at the outer edge) by simply leaving your joists uncut. Prep your frame minus the outer rim joist, begin decking at the house, and when you're within 3 boards of the edge, measure out the width of 3 boards, subtract 1.5" for the width thickness of your rim joist, and subtract whatever amount necessary for fascia and overhang (if browing out slightly over the edge). Snap a line, cut your joists, add your rim joist and you'll have a perfect edge without any ripped deck boards.
@@jmodified International Residential Code states 30". Although some states, cities, and municipalities may have alterations to the code, but that's the standard rule.
Awesome layout procedure. Great consulting the local Code enforcement official. The ledger nailing was sketchy. Recommend consulting a professional here. Structural screws are recommended. The direction perpendicular to the ledger is important as well. This requires a look at the house floor framing to insure it is sufficiently connected providing a load path into the deck diaphragms.
I like to lay out all the deck boards convex-side (or future convex side) up and jigsaw-puzzle the order and orientation to get minimal gaps. That way you're not fighting the natural curves (and shapes - some will vary slightly in width along the length) when you install them.
I've recently seen suggestions to use waterproof tape along the top of deck beams to increase their longevity by preventing water from sitting directly on the top of the joists. I think the consideration is also that the water isn't then held tightly by the decking against the beams, which would accelerate rot.
I just took a look at the PT frame of my 30 year old deck, the joists have zero evidence of any rot whatsoever. Not an inch of waterproof tape in sight...
@@billymacktexasdetective5827 Some decks might be just fine - there are many factors involved. In my case, working for a new home builder, the extra few dollars to add Protectadeck is insurance against future warranty claims. I also live in an extremely rainy area (last year we had about 120 inches), so prolonged weather exposure is an ongoing risk.
WARNING,WARNING...!! I am not trying to hurt anyones ego and I haven't read all the previous comments yet. Please no hate mail I'm just trying to help. If you are using P T lumber put your joist hangers after you install your joists. P T lumber demensions can vary because of the P T Process and wetness. It's so much easier to level off your tops and instal the hangers afterwards. I hope this helps.
Yes! And at 8:24 the very first joist they dropped in one of the hangers is not flush with the ledger board (at least from what I can see). I can't believe they actually used that shot for this finished video. All timber has slight differences in dimensions. If you are lucky enough to pick through your timber you can possibly get all the ones that have the same heights for your joists, or if not at least level them off in sequence with the tallest ones going in the middle of the ledger board and slightly shorter ones fanning out to the lowest towards the ends
If you are in a wildfire area, you want to make sure that nothing like leaves accumulates under the deck to burn and take your house. Maybe some screens behind the skirting they put in.
Ive spent many Sunday afternoons as a child falling asleep to this TV show. Something about the vibes of the show is just so relaxing to me.
Retired union carpenter here 42 years in the trade for instructional, commercial and residential work. Tom Silva is golden ! best of the best
Even after 40 years of doing this, Tommy ALWAYS teaches me something NEW. Gorgeous deck, both in design and execution. Thank you for this video.
Tommy is by far the best Boston American to ever exist hands down.
I been watching Tom for awhile now. He makes the most complicated project seem easy. When he explained things very simple and straight forward!
What a privilege and cherished memory of a lifetime to have the old guard TOH legend Tom Silva helping you with building your deck. I've always admired his seemingly boundless expertise that comes from 50-some years of practical know-how and applied fieldwork. He makes it all look easy but it surely isn't. You're the man Tommy!
Is it important to have gravel under the deck?
Tom is a pleasure to watch every time. He is that uncle I wish I had!!
Man Tom is one hell of a craftsman. I know it’s just a simple deck, but it was done beautifully and will last a lifetime. Love those banisters, and the Brazilian Ipe turned out great with the stain.
Anyone taking on this project themselves should add flashing that goes behind the siding and over you ledger board. The way they showed you here has all of the water from the siding shedding directly on the ledger. You don't want that to be the first board that rots.
Yeah my inspector just noted that on my presale. Wish I would have known originally
I literally came on here to say the same thing about the flashing. American wood council recommends flashing past the joist hangers as well. And the lag bolts attaching the ledger should be 1/2”. I’m not a professional or anything i’ve just been reading haha
It is great pleasure to watch
ASK THIS OLD HOUSE and
TOM SILVA.
Tommy Silva is the man
It took a Portuguese guy , Tom Silva to show how a true professional and experienced carptender can build a deck. Well done Tom.
Tom Silva, nuff said! I used to watch him as a teen, 54 now and still admire his problem solving gift.
Mr.Silva best contractor ever 👍🙏
A classic plumbers lament, lol, brings a smile every time I hear it 😄
@Ben Jones What can go wrong will go wrong
A master at work. Beautiful work.
Silva does great work! 👍👍👍
Kevin taught him all he knows. Lol or was it the little kids who learn quickly ?
@@Guardducksthat should have taken a day or two. I remember when Kevin came on. I was thinking wtf this guy was doing among giants but he grew on me.
Excellent show. Thank You
Looked like the home owners hadn't done a lot of wood work, but they were game to try. Great workmanship .
Tom is the goat. Great video y'all!
Always loved watching this old house, always does a class A job.. Beautiful job on the new deck..
That was awesome to see the homeowners teaming up with Tommy to get it built! Great job!!
Guy just built an unbelievable deck, incredibly skilled
There’s something very satisfying about watching this guy work. Great pro
The watch the art of perfection
The young lady is fearless! Good to see.
7:19 don't do that Tommy knows better. Pressure treated lumber varies as much as 5/8 of an inch in height. Each hanger needs to be set to account for that. The best practice is to toe nail each joist then install the hangers after
Yes I learned that the hard way and never did it again!
When you run a snap line that is level all the way across as Tommy did, and you position the top of the board to that snap line, the top of the board is level all the way across.
@@scotttovey My read of Justin's comment is that the joist hanger bottoms need to be adjusted to reflect the specific board being placed, so the single cutoff block used won't be a good gauge of where the joist hangers should be placed. Am I misunderstanding?
@@dosadoodle
If he had been that specific and clear,
neither of us would have commented.
@@dosadoodle
I went to the time he posted, you are correct.
With respect and my comment is based on my experience as a business person involved with building decks for residential homes. I found that if one mounts the final, what I call a fascia board to finish off the steps or face edge of a deck that that facia board should be overlapped on top by the last top deck board. not as you have applied. And most often you can buy that last board with a smooth edge or without a grove to complete this part of the project. Biggest or main reason is that after a year or so dirt, sand, tree seeds, organic material in general gets in between this final exposed edge. It is even worse for composite material which under the sun will flex outward most times leaving an edge again susceptible to gathering dirt or sand, etc. Then seeds start to grow in that grove leaving a yearly task of cleaning out that exposed grove. Once experienced I changed my application to measure the top board requirement and cutting the first board at the house edge to accommodate a 1/2 inch overlap at the fascia end. Just saying.
very logical
That only works on the long edge of the last board. What about covering the mounting grooves that are visible on the short edges of all boards. How would you cover those if not with one long plank ?
ie how do you cover the end cut that has visible grooves for mounting clips? People either connect a fascia or do a picture frame and the overhang. Any other alternatives ?
Man Tom is incredible. I wouldn't want levels in the deck but, to each their own
Wow great job Tommy.
Ayyyye, full episodes. Let's go 💪🏽👍
LFG!!! 💪🦅
Ironwood on the deck - pretty awesome
That’s a very handsome design as well
Not readiy available in California.
Silva's attention to detail and quality is of the highest standard. I've used so many of his teachings in my own builds. Intellectual generosity of that man is just immense.
Man, they have great soil there. That dirt looked like top soil that I have to pay for
Haaaaa,, right,,, thinking the same thing! Need to box it up and sell it on line!
In East Sacramento, the soil is about 12" deep, then you hit hardpan. Basically sandstone. A bear to get through. Some places 100' thick.
I used that the my advantage though, under the house. Just dug post holes 2 foot down to the 5' thick hardpan, jacked up beams, and leveled the house. House now sits on stone.
Love Tommy and his work. My one critique would be: there should be sealing tape on top of every joist. Beautiful deck.
Favorite episode guys.
Wow, ipei boards. Those are so expensive and beautiful. Amazing work
Tom is who you call a pro!
I like this show. PBS introduced a lot of quality ideas and shows to my life over the years. Thank you
My dad was a can do guy, but he was burned badly when I was very young so he couldn’t really use his hands, he was in bad shape. I mention this to say like many out there I didn’t have a dad that would teach me things, but I was lucky enough to have a dad until I was in my early 20s which was a miracle being he was burned over 85%.
Now look, I’m not saying Tom Silva was like a father to me, I’m not nuts, but Tom often did fill in the gap my own dad could not via the marvels of modern tech. My dad and I spent many Sunday mornings watching This Old House Together, found memories.
Rip to my Pops and shout out Tom Silva.
Ipe is rainforest wood. Buy thermally modified decking instead - it's more sustainable. Otherwise, I love the care these homeowners put into the design... and it's priceless to have the This Old House help bring the idea to life.
Outstanding video.
If I could be half the craftsman of Tommy!
Such a great a video. Absolutely one of the best.
Great Work!!!
Deck worth more than the house. Love it!
As usual, amazing and infuriating. Tommy has a tool and solution for everything! Incredible. Great episode, I learned a lot.
Amazing video!
When I built my 14 x 16 deck, I put the 4 x 6 beams right on top of the posts. Deck is now 39 years old, and still works great.
The ratchet to straighten the railing post was clever.
Old time new englanders reminds me of my pops great trades man
Tom. Get yourself a ratchet and socket. 😂 Just busting chops. Love This Old House
fantastic design and build proces.
I don’t see how he does that it’s amazing. Good job.
Sperience Sony sperience.😉
Mmmmm, Brazilian hardwood. Super sustainable.
👍🏼 Nice! I wouldn’t have split the deck with a step tho.
Looks like their deck will be worth more than their house, with all that ipe
I was thinking the same thing. Also all those dove tails. That's deck all in all probably cost around 50 to 70 thousand $
“If we were gonna do that in the field that’s a lotta work, so we had the manufacturer do it” for 178$ a board….
@@WoogieboogieOG labour costs. The manufacturer can dip dozens of boards, or spray them in a rotating drum in seconds.
And if out in the field it should rain?
Ipe?
@@corssecurity labor*
No.2 Also Use G-Tape on the top of your joists and your framing it will help with no rotting. It's been out for 5 years or so. It works Great.
We are in the process of building a new home,and you guys give me so many ideas.I love your programs. Do you have any ideas on front doors,l am thinking of having some glass. I will be happy,and thanks to all of you,great program ❤❤❤
If you don't already know it, you need to use specialized joist hanger nails. They are beefy but not long, since they only have to hold to the 2x material. Might not have been obvious when they were going in. Hand nail or use powered nailer as shown.
Tito's......
Would 16 penny nails be too long?
I’m surprised they never even used hurricane ties. Standard for all my decks no matter the size. Also never saw any sealing of the pressure treated ends.
@@Guardducks No problem if nails are longer (16d=3 1/2" long, 0.148" dia. shank), and stick out past framing member, unless for some reason they would be visible past the finished deck and would be a hazard for tripping, cutting someone, or catching on something moving.
@@customrenovations4363 no lateral tension ties to secure the deck joist in and through to the house floor joists as well.
the man is a living legend
Master carpenter
We have a 28 year old ipe deck which I have let age. It is structurally as sound today as it was 28 years ago. If it had been a covered deck I’m convinced it would have maintained the natural wood staining. I used deck hangers eliminating all fasteners on the walking surface.
Great Job
Now days no one can build with this high quality especially at south states.
I have 3 questions:
1: shouldn’t the ledger have a head flashing - so water doesn’t go between ledger and house?
2: aren’t notched posts for railings no longer allowed?
3: don’t deck builders start away from the house so that ripped boards don’t end up near the outside edge (in this case it looks like it worked doing from the house out)
i also thought notched posts were also not allowed. When I redid my railing a few years ago, they couldn't be notched as per 2015 guides or whatever it was called.
1: Yes. "Z" flashing should be used in a fashion to sit under the siding (which they had yet to re-install), lay over the top of the ledger board and the drip portion hanging over the edge.
2: Notched post may still be allowed in some areas, but in my opinion, any elevated deck that requires a railing (30 plus inches above grade), should have the posts mounted inside the outer joists and rim joist, blocked properly and even secured with lateral tension ties. You'll have to notch a few deck boards and you'll lose a tiny bit of deck area, but way more solid than any exterior mounted posts.
3: You can eliminate the need to rip a deck board (at the house or at the outer edge) by simply leaving your joists uncut. Prep your frame minus the outer rim joist, begin decking at the house, and when you're within 3 boards of the edge, measure out the width of 3 boards, subtract 1.5" for the width thickness of your rim joist, and subtract whatever amount necessary for fascia and overhang (if browing out slightly over the edge). Snap a line, cut your joists, add your rim joist and you'll have a perfect edge without any ripped deck boards.
@@driveman6490 Nice tips, but you forgot to mention that tip #3 only works when you're building a cantilevered deck.
@@driveman6490 You can go 30 inches above grade without a railing? Here it is 18 inches.
@@jmodified International Residential Code states 30". Although some states, cities, and municipalities may have alterations to the code, but that's the standard rule.
Tommy's kept that festool drill working longer than a cicada sleeps.
Old Tommy still at it!
Awesome layout procedure. Great consulting the local Code enforcement official. The ledger nailing was sketchy. Recommend consulting a professional here. Structural screws are recommended. The direction perpendicular to the ledger is important as well. This requires a look at the house floor framing to insure it is sufficiently connected providing a load path into the deck diaphragms.
Freakin deck is worth more than the house !!
I like to lay out all the deck boards convex-side (or future convex side) up and jigsaw-puzzle the order and orientation to get minimal gaps. That way you're not fighting the natural curves (and shapes - some will vary slightly in width along the length) when you install them.
awesome love to learn the skill
I've recently seen suggestions to use waterproof tape along the top of deck beams to increase their longevity by preventing water from sitting directly on the top of the joists. I think the consideration is also that the water isn't then held tightly by the decking against the beams, which would accelerate rot.
We use a product called "protectadeck" in Australia. Basically a rubber strip that runs along the top of a joist.
I've got a 25-year-old cedar deck built on PT framing without that waterproof tape. Deck is still standing and doing well.
I just took a look at the PT frame of my 30 year old deck, the joists have zero evidence of any rot whatsoever. Not an inch of waterproof tape in sight...
A lot of people use G-tape I believe it’s called. It seems overkill, but it helps maintain your deck
@@billymacktexasdetective5827 Some decks might be just fine - there are many factors involved. In my case, working for a new home builder, the extra few dollars to add Protectadeck is insurance against future warranty claims. I also live in an extremely rainy area (last year we had about 120 inches), so prolonged weather exposure is an ongoing risk.
Good job Tommy
Backfill around the concrete forms with limestone and use the removed soil for a raised garden bed or compost pile.
LMAO 🤣. What building inspector! After you get a permit you never see them again 😆
Depends. In Sacramento, a roof permit is just a way to make money. Same with a water heater permit.
I want a "Tommy" deck, too. Tommy built, Tommy approved. Never goes out of style.
I like this kind of videos, thakns
Thanks lots of on-site Bl
❤❤❤❤my favorite program on TV
Great to see Tommy doing his thing! Great LOOKING deck, but man that angled step, what a hazard. Not to mention the loss of usable space.
How is that step dangerous? I'm interested to hear your theory...
Nice fit no kidding I only wished I could get something that close
Always loved watching this old house, always does a class A job.
ask this old house show cases the true master tradesman/craftsman!
Dam good job Tom
Sam
The deck outshines the house 😅
Great video. Would have liked to see the stringers done step by step.
Tom is a master wow
thank you. I have a question, wasn't the expandable bolt that was inside the concrete short?
I hope Tommy will be around when i build my home.
In my next life I wanna come back as Tommy👍🏻
Great video Kevin….
WARNING,WARNING...!! I am not trying to hurt anyones ego and I haven't read all the previous comments yet. Please no hate mail I'm just trying to help. If you are using P T lumber put your joist hangers after you install your joists. P T lumber demensions can vary because of the P T Process and wetness. It's so much easier to level off your tops and instal the hangers afterwards. I hope this helps.
Yes! And at 8:24 the very first joist they dropped in one of the hangers is not flush with the ledger board (at least from what I can see). I can't believe they actually used that shot for this finished video. All timber has slight differences in dimensions. If you are lucky enough to pick through your timber you can possibly get all the ones that have the same heights for your joists, or if not at least level them off in sequence with the tallest ones going in the middle of the ledger board and slightly shorter ones fanning out to the lowest towards the ends
20:14 No man can resist the tug and pull just to make sure it is tight. NO MAN!
"I think you'll really enjoy using this deck 5 times a year."
Here's the lesson: You can do this all by yourself...with the guidance, direction, and an experienced, paid professional contractor.
Nah, decks are easy. I bought a Sunset book on deck building. 39 years later, still fine.
Or just use Google or UA-cam. Knowledge is basically free with the internet, just have to put in the effort
@@scottslotterbeck3796 Do you really think the home owners could have pulled this off themselves?
In 6-9 backbreaking months, sure
@@leagarner3675yeah , get the guys round with a cooler of beers and this puppy would have been up in three weekends max
thats a beautiful job, i wish to to that in romania too, but here is all concrete....wood is beautiful
I really wanted to see what type and method Tom used for ledger board flashing, but didn't see it in the video.
If you are in a wildfire area, you want to make sure that nothing like leaves accumulates under the deck to burn and take your house. Maybe some screens behind the skirting they put in.
More videos like this please!
My heroes!! 😘
GOOD JOB MELISSER
Darn, no fancy laser level, I guess I can't build that deck after all