3:09 OK... With the view we were given, and the sound I initially heard, I did not think it was the jig saw... LOL As you were finishing up the cut, I suddenly had this horrible thought that there was something hidden that you may cut into that could have been catastrophic.
I am currently looking at doing this with my 93 ambu. I just dont want to have to leave a door open for exhaust/fresh. Debating on cutting floor out in outter storage area and adding in some metal grating to keep critters out but allow airflow. Really against cutting into anything on this build as they are so well done from factory. But also want that option of ac when plugged in to shore power. Really love your vids!
I'm super excited to see how this changes my living :) Using it while driving would be awesome too. Good idea - after a day of hot driving the house is soo hot.
@@TheCampulanceMan Old apartment units in Los Angeles, when they have air conditioning at all, typically have it near floor level. So you can crank it for hours and still feel no cool except for knee-high at best. Put yours as high as you possibly can! If nothing else, it will save you energy by making sure the cooling goes where you really "live," which is not so much at knee level as everything above it.
AC is a must if you are going to come back out west and camp, I don't know how the nomads that listen to BW's and just use shade cloth can cope trying to sleep in a camper van that is 90 degrees inside. Good job installing the AC unit, You and lefty are going to be so much more comfortable now, and it opens up more camp sites for you.
12:26 I was going to say that if you could design a special set of sheet metal piece that came out creating a separation from the inlets and the outlets so when the door was closed and you had some vents in the door that would allow air to enter and escape with the door closed that would be really cool? The vents in the door would be directional so the hot air coming out would not go back in while the cool clean air would go into the unite?
Why take up a cabinet? i out mine in the drivers rear door window. No loss of storage and im putting a cheap tool cabinet over it on the outside to protect and hide it when not in use.
@@TheCampulanceMan What I suggest is in the exterior cabinet cut out the diamond plate more to give those side and top vents more air. That's the air intake. Drawing from the dead space in the wall I'm not sure you will get enough airflow. That's my concern. As I'm sure you know that door must be open when that AC is on.
I see. The vents aren't in the wall, they're all exposed in the cabinet. I pushed it back so that they'd all be exposed. The vents end right at the diamond plate so im hoping ill be ok!
I did the same for my rig this year. I can put window back in during the winter. Now I'm looking into a small mini-split system for ac and heat. My winter project.
This is a game changer for you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I really expected to see insulation in that wall ,that will help you even half inch. Have been looking forward to this one, NICE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Wattsa!! There is insulation in the exterior walls and the cabinet doors so there's a total exterior barrier. This was a long time in the works!
Why did you use 2 different rulers for measurements? Curious because I am trying to learn how to do proper measuring before I start cutting into the wood I have for my build. Wood is too expensive to mess up. It sounds very loud.
Hi Matt - no hole in the floor, but I do open my small door that pulls air in through the outer cabinet and then inside. It always seems to be a cool air flow as it's coming from that outer cabinet vent which is under the truck.
Have you ever considered replacing the factory A/C system compressor with an electric compressor like the one in a Toyota Prius so that the system could run without the engine running? I have a Prius and the A/C runs independent of the engine.
@@TheCampulanceMan Have you found the original ambulance front and rear A/C system to be robust and reliable? Are they easy to maintain if properly cared for?
As a Floridian with tons of A/C experience, I must let you know you will have to create a drain for the condensation that comes out the back of the unit. Also as others have said you will need to get more airflow out the back or it will freeze up.
Yes I've added a drain hole in the shelf and a water tray. If needed I can run a hose down to the cabinet bottom where there's a drain hole. The cabinet will always be open when I run it for air. Thanks for the comment and info
It's a standard household unit. Its designed to fling the water up onto the condenser and recommends not having a drain in the bottom pan. I've never had water run off from it but I am usually using it in very dry climates.
Just a thought David. Did you want to drill a big square hole where you shower is so can don't have to shower outside? You can enter your shower through the interior of the ambulance.
Is the cabinet you put it in ventilated? I noticed I have only one cabinet with the vents and it's not where I want to put the AC. Will it vent ok in any of the outdoor compartments?
I saw a build where the AC sits above the entrance to the cab. It would make sense to have it high up, no? (Cold air sinks.)I would think the cabinet location could be put to better use.
David what made you not go with a roof ac? Just wondering if it wouldn't allow more storage space in the cabinet and why you elected to use a wall unit. So I can make an informed decision and I really value your opinion so much. Thank you!
Where will the water extracted from the interior air go? There should be a drain hole near the back of the unit on the bottom. The water is the reason for the tilt downward in the back of the unit. Also, you will have to leave the compartment door open when running the unit. Every year I remove the unit, take it outside and hose it down with water to clean it out. Of course, it must dry in the sun before putting it back into the wall.
Hi William. Yes I'll always have the cabinet door open when it runs. I put a hole in the wood shelf for the drain and a catch tray under it. If needed I'll run a hose to the cabinet bottom where there's a drain hole. Thanks for the comment and info :)
I have my ac in the same spot. My ac uses the water it collects and slings on the coils for cooling. No drain and not one drop of water in my cabinet!!!
Thank you for that info Tom!! My unit's user manual says that it also uses the water to sling up, and that I shouldn't remove the drain plug (or I'll have reduced efficiency). I plan to run it and see what water (if any) it causes to drip out. Thanks!!
Awesome setup! My brand new rig (‘05 Ford E450) has a vent, thermostat, and control switches for heat and cool air in the rear module/house that operates separately from the van. Do you think it’s worth the hassle to connect my solar system directly to the pre-installed setup? Is that even possible? Thanks for your very helpful videos!
Hi J - Most heat and AC house systems require the van to be running as they operate off of the factory systems. The fans will blow, but without the engine running you'll get room temp air only. As for connecting a solar to your existing system, it is possible but you'd be charging cranking batteries which isn't good.
@@TheCampulanceMan Thanks so much! I've since watched your video on Ambulance electrical systems, which helped and is probably the best explanation I've found on the internet.
As insulated as that thing is I'm betting that AC would keep that pretty cool. Great job man looks good and I'm sure it feels good good job. I know this was back in the shower and I'm sure you will read this, so have a fantastic day and please stay safe! TQ out
Why not put the rear AC venting into the wheel well? Gain/save a cabinet and plenty of airflow.... but, um, road grime, possibly snow and mud.... nevermind
You could probably build a styrofoam box around the a/c compressor or wrap it in a waterproof noise damping material to reduce compressor noise as long as you don't reduce airflow through the condenser.
2/ Questions -- cold air drops, so the floor is the worst mounting position, could you have put this anywhere else, up higher? -- and what did you work out to catch all the water drippings below the back of the unit??? It is an easy fix but man, I need to know lol
There are a lot of optiins for installing a unit depending on how much cutting or exterior hang out you want. The space is so small that its able to cool easily. There is zero water expelled from the AC - it slings the water up on to the condenser so I've never had a drop come out of it.
Now that you've had this setup for a while how's it working out? How well does it cool on a hot day and how long will it run on a cloudy day or at night using your battery?
@@TheCampulanceMan Thanks a lot and you have lithium batteries running off of those I just bought an ambulance two months ago and I’m converting it now love your videos so helpful it’s not a regular ambulance is a firetruck ambulance very large wish I could send you some picsMy number is 772-233-0571 if you respond I can send you some pics of it I’m in Stuart Florida
Hey David Great video. Two questions please. 1.) Why did you go with a window unit and not a standard RV A/C that is installed on the roof? Was it solely to keep the weight down lower on the rig to make it less top heavy? 2.) I see that you run it off your solar. If for any reason you needed to, can/does it now (if needed) also be run off just electric? Sorry, I can't remember if you have shore power or solely use solar/battery power? Thanks, safe travels to you both.
Hi Scott. The unit i chose was mainly due to cost. Yes, I can run it from shore power if I'm plugged in, or off of my generator if I'm plugged into that.
Did you pick an AC unit which is designed to handle vibration from traveling? Do they even make those? Or did you simply pick an AC based on size and output?
Good question - this is just a standard window AC unit that I selected based on the power usage and output. There are RV specific units (mini splits, rooftop) but they are higher cost and I didn't want to go that route.
Im sorry but that install is wrong! your cutting off airflow for the condenser having it partially in dead air space. That A/C won't last long. Nice job on the try but wrong install. I'm a refrigeration an HVAC Tech by trade. Trust me PLEASE rethink the location!
H Todd, what you think about making a mini split out of a window unit like this? run the condenser unit thru a heat exchanger thru a water tank and an outside under the chassis condenser w fan for additional cooling. Its that hard to calculate and install by someone with your experience?
Wow that looks very nice and efficient too 😳
Super cool 👍👍👍
Great edition to your rig dave ,im sweating just thinking about florida summer comming
3:09 OK... With the view we were given, and the sound I initially heard, I did not think it was the jig saw... LOL
As you were finishing up the cut, I suddenly had this horrible thought that there was something hidden that you may cut into that could have been catastrophic.
I thought I saw safety glasses on you... then you confirmed it. First time I've seen them. I'm a mom... I'd have scolded you before!
I've worn them most of the time when I'm working with power tools.. but sometimes not - my bad :/
14:07 Turn the outlet sideways.
I am currently looking at doing this with my 93 ambu. I just dont want to have to leave a door open for exhaust/fresh. Debating on cutting floor out in outter storage area and adding in some metal grating to keep critters out but allow airflow. Really against cutting into anything on this build as they are so well done from factory. But also want that option of ac when plugged in to shore power. Really love your vids!
Thank you for watching us :)
I can see you are overjoyed by that cool air! Glad it happened for ya! Lefty will love it too!
What a great idea , and it fits perfectly! Hope it's still working out in the future.
Where is your condensate drain at ? Interesting project .
This unit uses the water to spray back on the condenser and recommended not adding a drain.
Adding the ac is a game changer i agree. Made a world of improvement in my rig. And I run mine from the inverter while driving.
I'm super excited to see how this changes my living :) Using it while driving would be awesome too. Good idea - after a day of hot driving the house is soo hot.
@@TheCampulanceMan Having ac that runs off solar, a generator, inverter or shore power is amazing.
I got just as excited as you did. And my ac is just a simple Walmart $100.00 unit. If it quits, its easy to replace on the road.
@@TheCampulanceMan You don't run the factory rear A/C while driving?
@@MidAtlanticTV I have done that a few times on very hot days.
GREAT JOB GREAT VIDEO...COLD AIR SINKS..WOULD IT COOL MORE EFFICIENTLY IF YOU PUT THE A/C UNIT UP HIGH INSTEAD? THANKS FOR SHARING!
You're exactly right! I'm looking at changing the position
@@TheCampulanceMan Old apartment units in Los Angeles, when they have air conditioning at all, typically have it near floor level. So you can crank it for hours and still feel no cool except for knee-high at best. Put yours as high as you possibly can! If nothing else, it will save you energy by making sure the cooling goes where you really "live," which is not so much at knee level as everything above it.
Excellent point!
Great job buddy. I just bought an ambulance and will be do many of the things you have done. Thanks for the videos and the help. God bless
Hi and welcome to the fleet!! Thank you for watching and commenting and have FUN with your build :)
AC is a must if you are going to come back out west and camp, I don't know how the nomads that listen to BW's and just use shade cloth can cope trying to sleep in a camper van that is 90 degrees inside.
Good job installing the AC unit, You and lefty are going to be so much more comfortable now, and it opens up more camp sites for you.
Thanks Pat - I know Lefty will feel a lot better after running around and I can't wait till the first hot day and we get into a cool house to sleep!
I like....t
12:26 I was going to say that if you could design a special set of sheet metal piece that came out creating a separation from the inlets and the outlets so when the door was closed and you had some vents in the door that would allow air to enter and escape with the door closed that would be really cool? The vents in the door would be directional so the hot air coming out would not go back in while the cool clean air would go into the unite?
Comfort and especially while driving. Perfect! Enjoy David. Cheers
Thanks Richard! Lefty has already cooled off in it so that makes it worth it :)
i am curious. why didn't you just keep and use the AC that was in the rear of the ambulance?
Hows it holding up to date? Im thinking of doing mine like that in my 1988 e350 ambo, great video!
It's been a life saver on very hot days for us. It's a great option to have on board!
Why take up a cabinet? i out mine in the drivers rear door window.
No loss of storage and im putting a cheap tool cabinet over it on the outside to protect and hide it when not in use.
An excellent idea!
Hi Todd and thanks for the comment. Ive seen rigs with rear window units but I decided to go with the cabinet install.
@@TheCampulanceMan What I suggest is in the exterior cabinet cut out the diamond plate more to give those side and top vents more air.
That's the air intake.
Drawing from the dead space in the wall I'm not sure you will get enough airflow.
That's my concern.
As I'm sure you know that door must be open when that AC is on.
I see. The vents aren't in the wall, they're all exposed in the cabinet. I pushed it back so that they'd all be exposed. The vents end right at the diamond plate so im hoping ill be ok!
I did the same for my rig this year. I can put window back in during the winter. Now I'm looking into a small mini-split system for ac and heat. My winter project.
That is awesome. Plz review this project.
This is a game changer for you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I really expected to see insulation in that wall ,that will help you even half inch. Have been looking forward to this one, NICE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Wattsa!! There is insulation in the exterior walls and the cabinet doors so there's a total exterior barrier. This was a long time in the works!
Another great 👍 job Dave.
Fred👋
Thank you!
Why did you use 2 different rulers for measurements? Curious because I am trying to learn how to do proper measuring before I start cutting into the wood I have for my build. Wood is too expensive to mess up. It sounds very loud.
I was using the Ling one as a straightedge...
I may have missed it but did you cut a hole in the floor for cool air to enter the box?
Hi Matt - no hole in the floor, but I do open my small door that pulls air in through the outer cabinet and then inside. It always seems to be a cool air flow as it's coming from that outer cabinet vent which is under the truck.
Have you ever considered replacing the factory A/C system compressor with an electric compressor like the one in a Toyota Prius so that the system could run without the engine running? I have a Prius and the A/C runs independent of the engine.
I've heard that some people have done that
@@TheCampulanceMan Have you found the original ambulance front and rear A/C system to be robust and reliable? Are they easy to maintain if properly cared for?
Catching back up on your videos been busy lately
I know to have the AC has to be awesome
Y'all take care and be safe and we'll see you soon
Thanks for soaking them all in Darryl! The AC saved us driving across the country!!
Finally up to date with your vids 😅. Nicely done mate.
Thank you!!!
As a Floridian with tons of A/C experience, I must let you know you will have to create a drain for the condensation that comes out the back of the unit. Also as others have said you will need to get more airflow out the back or it will freeze up.
Yes I've added a drain hole in the shelf and a water tray. If needed I can run a hose down to the cabinet bottom where there's a drain hole. The cabinet will always be open when I run it for air. Thanks for the comment and info
@@TheCampulanceMan I'm impressed at the solar powering it. I might look into it for my house lol.
That would be a great idea. You could load up on the large 300w panels and run massive AC units!!
Dave, did you have any condensation issues on the back of the A/C? Is your A/C unit designed for this application or is it a standard household unit?
It's a standard household unit. Its designed to fling the water up onto the condenser and recommends not having a drain in the bottom pan. I've never had water run off from it but I am usually using it in very dry climates.
Just a thought David. Did you want to drill a big square hole where you shower is so can don't have to shower outside? You can enter your shower through the interior of the ambulance.
There's just not enough room in my cabinets for me to fit, so I use the outdoor tent to shower :)
Great addition David, both you and Lefty can stay cool anywhere you go camping and that is just awesome!!!
Thank you Mark - we're both looking forward to being able to cool off!!
How many solar pannels are you running?
6 x 190w = 1140w
Install a vent on that exterior door to the a/c, ...then you could run the a/c while driving
That would be a plus. I do have (factory) rear AC that I run when driving when its real hot. It helps tremendously and keeps the whole truck cool :)
Is the cabinet you put it in ventilated?
I noticed I have only one cabinet with the vents and it's not where I want to put the AC.
Will it vent ok in any of the outdoor compartments?
Hey Jude - when I run the AC, I have the outside compartment door open. It has run well like that for me.
That's what ended up doing. Thanks! My install isn't going as smooth as yours did..but I'm almost there.
I saw a build where the AC sits above the entrance to the cab. It would make sense to have it high up, no? (Cold air sinks.)I would think the cabinet location could be put to better use.
I've been looking at how I can move that :)
David what made you not go with a roof ac? Just wondering if it wouldn't allow more storage space in the cabinet and why you elected to use a wall unit. So I can make an informed decision and I really value your opinion so much. Thank you!
Cost and power requirements. The window unit uses about 440w which is pretty low :)
@@TheCampulanceMan makes sense! Did you list the power system you used anywhere? Thank you!
Leyla and I know where to hang out in hot days now😂
OMG it feels so good!
Where will the water extracted from the interior air go? There should be a drain hole near the back of the unit on the bottom. The water is the reason for the tilt downward in the back of the unit. Also, you will have to leave the compartment door open when running the unit. Every year I remove the unit, take it outside and hose it down with water to clean it out. Of course, it must dry in the sun before putting it back into the wall.
Hi William. Yes I'll always have the cabinet door open when it runs. I put a hole in the wood shelf for the drain and a catch tray under it. If needed I'll run a hose to the cabinet bottom where there's a drain hole. Thanks for the comment and info :)
Dang it, you promised me there was insulation everywhere lol, shoot!
Thats an interior wall, so no insulation. Its in the exterior walls and cabinet doors.
Super Duper :)
Thank you!!
I have my ac in the same spot. My ac uses the water it collects and slings on the coils for cooling. No drain and not one drop of water in my cabinet!!!
Thank you for that info Tom!! My unit's user manual says that it also uses the water to sling up, and that I shouldn't remove the drain plug (or I'll have reduced efficiency). I plan to run it and see what water (if any) it causes to drip out. Thanks!!
In your video the AC only dropped the inside temperature by 9 degrees. Have you ran it on higher settings to see how much it can cool your rig inside?
I usually run it at 72 degrees when we're in the 90s outside.
Awesome setup! My brand new rig (‘05 Ford E450) has a vent, thermostat, and control switches for heat and cool air in the rear module/house that operates separately from the van. Do you think it’s worth the hassle to connect my solar system directly to the pre-installed setup? Is that even possible?
Thanks for your very helpful videos!
Hi J - Most heat and AC house systems require the van to be running as they operate off of the factory systems. The fans will blow, but without the engine running you'll get room temp air only.
As for connecting a solar to your existing system, it is possible but you'd be charging cranking batteries which isn't good.
@@TheCampulanceMan Thanks so much! I've since watched your video on Ambulance electrical systems, which helped and is probably the best explanation I've found on the internet.
As insulated as that thing is I'm betting that AC would keep that pretty cool. Great job man looks good and I'm sure it feels good good job. I know this was back in the shower and I'm sure you will read this, so have a fantastic day and please stay safe! TQ out
Why not put the rear AC venting into the wheel well? Gain/save a cabinet and plenty of airflow.... but, um, road grime, possibly snow and mud.... nevermind
You could probably build a styrofoam box around the a/c compressor or wrap it in a waterproof noise damping material to reduce compressor noise as long as you don't reduce airflow through the condenser.
2/ Questions -- cold air drops, so the floor is the worst mounting position, could you have put this anywhere else, up higher? -- and what did you work out to catch all the water drippings below the back of the unit??? It is an easy fix but man, I need to know lol
There are a lot of optiins for installing a unit depending on how much cutting or exterior hang out you want. The space is so small that its able to cool easily. There is zero water expelled from the AC - it slings the water up on to the condenser so I've never had a drop come out of it.
How many batteries do you have on your solar set up
I have 3 100Ah Gel.
Now that you've had this setup for a while how's it working out? How well does it cool on a hot day and how long will it run on a cloudy day or at night using your battery?
It has kept us cool on high 90's days. I use the generator if needed into the evening.
How many watts are your solar panels how man do u have
I had a recent video that gives details on all of my electronic systems that you should check out.
I have (6) 190W panels = 1140watts
Do you have to leave the outside door open while it runs, for venting?
Hi Cindy - yes the door stays open for running the AC and it gets a lot of air.
How large is your solar to be able to run AC
Hi Michelle - I have 1140w on top
@@TheCampulanceMan Thanks a lot and you have lithium batteries running off of those I just bought an ambulance two months ago and I’m converting it now love your videos so helpful it’s not a regular ambulance is a firetruck ambulance very large wish I could send you some picsMy number is 772-233-0571 if you respond I can send you some pics of it I’m in Stuart Florida
I have GEL batteries- (3) 100Ah Renogy... I'll txt you so I can see some pics of your rig :)
Hey David Great video. Two questions please. 1.) Why did you go with a window unit and not a standard RV A/C that is installed on the roof? Was it solely to keep the weight down lower on the rig to make it less top heavy? 2.) I see that you run it off your solar. If for any reason you needed to, can/does it now (if needed) also be run off just electric? Sorry, I can't remember if you have shore power or solely use solar/battery power? Thanks, safe travels to you both.
Hi Scott. The unit i chose was mainly due to cost. Yes, I can run it from shore power if I'm plugged in, or off of my generator if I'm plugged into that.
I would think the side install is much more efficient
I bet that will run you out of there. How many sq ft do you have ?
Did you pick an AC unit which is designed to handle vibration from traveling? Do they even make those? Or did you simply pick an AC based on size and output?
Good question - this is just a standard window AC unit that I selected based on the power usage and output. There are RV specific units (mini splits, rooftop) but they are higher cost and I didn't want to go that route.
So how much room was there between the metal wall and the plywood wall ?
Hi Kabot - there's 3.5 inches there between the wood and diamond plate
@@TheCampulanceMan It will be nice to insulate that area, it will help as you keep the cabinet door open when you run the AC
You can get rid of the commercial plates if you install a stove or refrigerator inside
Hi Jon - yes I gathered the info from the DMV on changing class, I just haven't gotten around to doing it!
Im sorry but that install is wrong! your cutting off airflow for the condenser having it partially in dead air space.
That A/C won't last long. Nice job on the try but wrong install.
I'm a refrigeration an HVAC Tech by trade. Trust me PLEASE rethink the location!
Thanks for the info Todd. I'm going to monitor the cabinet to be sure its ok.
I'll always have the door open when running the AC for sure. Some folks have put 12v fans in the cabinet to help move air.
H Todd, what you think about making a mini split out of a window unit like this?
run the condenser unit thru a heat exchanger thru a water tank and an outside under the chassis condenser w fan for additional cooling. Its that hard to calculate and install by someone with your experience?
I have mine in a cabinet I leave both doors open 90° in Florida I’ll leave it on all the time I’ve had no problem with it