That's a great idea putting the A/C on a table with the window. Still blows hot air outside. May make the unit more efficient when indoor temperature lowers and the A/C sucks in cooler air.
You know all the side and top vents are blowing hot air back inside the room so your test is probably half as efficient that way as it would be when properly set up. All those vents should be venting outside not inside.
Other videos show the frigidaire AC unit uses about 300 watts.... but that is CRAZY LOW. I would like to know how they accomplish such a LOW energy usage on the 5000 btu Frigidaire!!
This 5000 btu Frigidaire unit is sticker rated at 410 watts maximum. I’ve been doing a lot of real world testing with it and for my situation, cooling on medium fan speed is working best to keep the camper cool. Using shore power, that’s pulling under 375 watts. Using my solar, batteries and inverter, it’s pulling anywhere from 360-415 watts.
Thank for the details. Been waiting for your install of this window unit in the camper. However, had to put AC into my camper (NorthStar Liberty, 98 sf) last week for summer travels. I bit the bullet and installed the new Velit 12 v 8000 BTU roof top unit. Cost $1,600 was high (Dometic even higher) but easy install and did not need to deal with wall install challenges (really want to see your solution). On "Eco" mode cools the camper well (small camper) using average 24-26 amps (12 v). Night mode slightly less. Full cool mode uses about 45-50 amps. Have 280 amp-hr lithium batteries. 275 watt solar. Factory installed converter can supply 20 amps 12v if plugged into shore power (seldom). Still want to see how you install the window AC unit in your camper wall. Knowing you, it will be very clever and well done. Noise level not bad on medium fan, similar to average window AC unit.
Nice. That should work very well for you. I’ve had this air conditioner installed for a few months now. I’ve been testing real world conditions and situations since then. I’ve done a few baffle and insulation changes to improve efficiency and I think I’ve got it dialed in now. I’m even harvesting over a gallon of water per day with this a/c (averaging 4 hrs of a/c use per gallon of water) More videos coming showing the process.
You didn't specifically say what your battery capacity was but l did hear you mention 200AH...So you have 2 100AH lithium's. What size solar panels are you using?
I’ve done quite a bit of testing with it. The dry mode runs the evaporator but the compressor is functioning at around 15%. So it’s drying the air (pulling moisture for water harvesting) but not cooling. It’s actually a separate mode/function and works well. My testing conditions are average 80°f with 40% humidity.
@@covetthecamper2289 interesting. That means the compressor would have to at least have a multi-speed controller if not a VFD running it. I wasn't aware that window units even did that. Every AC I've ever run that had a dry mode was basically just running the air conditioner but using humidity as the set points instead of temperature.
My rooftop unit is dead on my truck camper, I've tried everything to get the compressor unstuck with no luck. Was thinking about a window unit in the microwave cabinet with a vent out the side for exhaust and a vent for intake from the behind the fridge compartment.
Was wondering if you could test amph or watth measurements for 12 hours or 24 hour. How many watt hour does A/C consume. I wonder if i could add a mini ac on ky car running off of solar?
Kind of at odds. If you were in the shade it would run better but than the solar wouldn't work well if it were on the roof so you would have to have the portable type.
Last weekend with outside temperatures reaching low 90’s, I ran it using the solar/LiFePO4 Batteries/inverter on medium fan speed cool for just about 4 1/2 hrs. Parked in full sun. Batteries only depleted 2%. (Went from 96% to 94% SOC.) Cooled the camper to the set temperature of 72°. (We had pets with us). I’m very happy with the results.
Hard to beat that. On addage abt not running ac on a solar electric system is likely dated from the golf cart battery days when you could only safety discharge dwn to 50% of the batteries capacity. Your new Li batteries are likely utilizes better chemistry that allows for faster charge rates. These new guys are game changers.
Likely inside your car was a much larger cooling load than your unit could muster. Cars are not insulated and have rather large areas to absorb the sun's heat.
5000 btu ac draws only 5 amp ac. I think if you have 4 solar panels 1.2kw and 200 amp lithium batteries and keeping air cooling low probably get you 10-12 hours of use.
Cover the windows. When sunlight passes through glass it changes to radiant heat and will heat the inside. Also keep your vehicle in the shade. Yes, everyone knows this...
@@covetthecamper2289 Well, I would take some time to research that. 100% charge is never good for lithium based batteries neither go down to 15% SOC. As far as I know, the longer you keep them around 50%-60% SOC even with multiple charges to keep to this levels are the better. But it is just my 2 cents.
The BMS is managing that. Rather than just looking at 0% to 100%, I look at voltages and temperatures and set my BMS accordingly. The meter on my Victron Smart Shunt app show percentages in relation to my programmed BMS which has been set for the correct charge and discharge voltages.
My thoughts here are this isn't an issue like using lead acid chemistry. Battery manufacturers have to estimate battery life...3,000 to 5,000 charge cycles without degrading original capacity and then it drops to 80% of original. These life cycles are likely longer than any of us will camp or live long enough to need to replace. I believe that well before that we'll see new battery chemistry that makes Li ion look old fashioned.
And they used to say, "you couldn't run an Air Conditioner with solar panels"!
That's a great idea putting the A/C on a table with the window. Still blows hot air outside. May make the unit more efficient when indoor temperature lowers and the A/C sucks in cooler air.
Nice work
You know all the side and top vents are blowing hot air back inside the room so your test is probably half as efficient that way as it would be when properly set up. All those vents should be venting outside not inside.
Other videos show the frigidaire AC unit uses about 300 watts.... but that is CRAZY LOW. I would like to know how they accomplish such a LOW energy usage on the 5000 btu Frigidaire!!
This 5000 btu Frigidaire unit is sticker rated at 410 watts maximum.
I’ve been doing a lot of real world testing with it and for my situation, cooling on medium fan speed is working best to keep the camper cool.
Using shore power, that’s pulling under 375 watts.
Using my solar, batteries and inverter, it’s pulling anywhere from 360-415 watts.
Thank for the details. Been waiting for your install of this window unit in the camper. However, had to put AC into my camper (NorthStar Liberty, 98 sf) last week for summer travels. I bit the bullet and installed the new Velit 12 v 8000 BTU roof top unit. Cost $1,600 was high (Dometic even higher) but easy install and did not need to deal with wall install challenges (really want to see your solution). On "Eco" mode cools the camper well (small camper) using average 24-26 amps (12 v). Night mode slightly less. Full cool mode uses about 45-50 amps. Have 280 amp-hr lithium batteries. 275 watt solar. Factory installed converter can supply 20 amps 12v if plugged into shore power (seldom). Still want to see how you install the window AC unit in your camper wall. Knowing you, it will be very clever and well done. Noise level not bad on medium fan, similar to average window AC unit.
Nice. That should work very well for you.
I’ve had this air conditioner installed for a few months now. I’ve been testing real world conditions and situations since then. I’ve done a few baffle and insulation changes to improve efficiency and I think I’ve got it dialed in now. I’m even harvesting over a gallon of water per day with this a/c (averaging 4 hrs of a/c use per gallon of water)
More videos coming showing the process.
You didn't specifically say what your battery capacity was but l did hear you mention 200AH...So you have 2 100AH lithium's. What size solar panels are you using?
And what type of inverter are you using
So the AC unit that you're using is a 5000 BTU Frigidaire?
Just FYI dry mode on these air conditioners isn't really a separate mode it's just the air conditioner running. It's kind of a gimmick.
I’ve done quite a bit of testing with it.
The dry mode runs the evaporator but the compressor is functioning at around 15%. So it’s drying the air (pulling moisture for water harvesting) but not cooling. It’s actually a separate mode/function and works well. My testing conditions are average 80°f with 40% humidity.
@@covetthecamper2289 interesting. That means the compressor would have to at least have a multi-speed controller if not a VFD running it. I wasn't aware that window units even did that. Every AC I've ever run that had a dry mode was basically just running the air conditioner but using humidity as the set points instead of temperature.
My rooftop unit is dead on my truck camper, I've tried everything to get the compressor unstuck with no luck. Was thinking about a window unit in the microwave cabinet with a vent out the side for exhaust and a vent for intake from the behind the fridge compartment.
👍🏻
Was wondering if you could test amph or watth measurements for 12 hours or 24 hour. How many watt hour does A/C consume. I wonder if i could add a mini ac on ky car running off of solar?
Kind of at odds. If you were in the shade it would run better but than the solar wouldn't work well if it were on the roof so you would have to have the portable type.
I would like to see the A/C set on 68 low eco and see how long it would run. You have almost exact set up I have.
Last weekend with outside temperatures reaching low 90’s, I ran it using the solar/LiFePO4 Batteries/inverter on medium fan speed cool for just about 4 1/2 hrs. Parked in full sun. Batteries only depleted 2%. (Went from 96% to 94% SOC.)
Cooled the camper to the set temperature of 72°. (We had pets with us).
I’m very happy with the results.
Hard to beat that. On addage abt not running ac on a solar electric system is likely dated from the golf cart battery days when you could only safety discharge dwn to 50% of the batteries capacity. Your new Li batteries are likely utilizes better chemistry that allows for faster charge rates. These new guys are game changers.
I installed one of those 5000 btu's in my Chevy van in the summer in central Fla.... didn't cool at all! It was horrible.
Likely inside your car was a much larger cooling load than your unit could muster. Cars are not insulated and have rather large areas to absorb the sun's heat.
5000 btu ac draws only 5 amp ac. I think if you have 4 solar panels 1.2kw and 200 amp lithium batteries and keeping air cooling low probably get you 10-12 hours of use.
Cover the windows. When sunlight passes through glass it changes to radiant heat and will heat the inside. Also keep your vehicle in the shade. Yes, everyone knows this...
I have reflectix and pull down blinds if I need them. Just testing.
What is the model number of the a/c
It is always good to keep lithium-ion batteries below 80% SOC. 60% is the ideal SOC so they can last longer.
Long-term storage at 50-60% SOC is ideal.
90-95% to 15% is what the Battery management system likes to see for regular use on my LiFePO4 bank.
@@covetthecamper2289 Well, I would take some time to research that. 100% charge is never good for lithium based batteries neither go down to 15% SOC. As far as I know, the longer you keep them around 50%-60% SOC even with multiple charges to keep to this levels are the better. But it is just my 2 cents.
The BMS is managing that. Rather than just looking at 0% to 100%, I look at voltages and temperatures and set my BMS accordingly.
The meter on my Victron Smart Shunt app show percentages in relation to my programmed BMS which has been set for the correct charge and discharge voltages.
My thoughts here are this isn't an issue like using lead acid chemistry. Battery manufacturers have to estimate battery life...3,000 to 5,000 charge cycles without degrading original capacity and then it drops to 80% of original. These life cycles are likely longer than any of us will camp or live long enough to need to replace. I believe that well before that we'll see new battery chemistry that makes Li ion look old fashioned.
If it really takes 20 amps so that means 100 ah lithium battery of any brand will run this ac for almost 5 hours
This is what I am wondering. I have 2 100ah 12v agm batteries and wondering how long I can run this.
@@excelsior2708 agm means that you can use it 50%