Very nice guide. Also, thank you so much for not skipping the difficult parts or trying to hide where you had trouble. It reassures me that I'm doing it right, but that I just need to remain determined.
Very well done - I have looked at a dozen or so of these Videos and yours was by far the easiest to follow. I have no idea why there have been so few views. Thank you !
Thanks Greg, I appreciate the nice comment, and thanks for watching! I only posted this one last month, so hopefully in time the views will continue to grow. Take care, -Dan the Fix it Man
🏆🔧🔩 This is a 5-star how-to video. I would not have attempted the rear brake job on my Mazda3 without watching this video a few times. My tip: buy the $25 piston caliper rewind kit from Amazon Dan recommends. I tried the needle nose pliers trick and then the $10 cube with no results. You really NEED this kit. For what you are saving by doing this job yourself, the $25 kit more than pays for itself in one use. You are a natural and gifted teacher, Dan. I like that you left out the irritating "background music" too many amateurs add to their videos. You delivered straight talk, clear camera angles (tripod), and a thorough step-by-step rundown from start to finish.
Thank you for the kind words John! Glad to hear you got it done. I agree that the caliper wind back tool really makes it easier... Take care, -Dan the Fix it Man
Great job. It was nice to see the struggle you had with the new clip just to show the factor new manufacturers parts aren’t always worth using even if they’re “new”. Appreciate the humility there. Some videos try to make it a perfect process which isn’t really a true human experience Thanks
i have changed many pads over the years but today was a first for me with this type of set up, thanks for making my life easier, great vid clear and easy to follow, your the best Thank you !
This is one of the better videos I've seen for this brake job, thanks. Can you please tell me which brake kit from amazon has the proper attachment to compress the piston?
Hi Martin, Thank you for the nice comment, and glad you liked my video. danthefixitman.org/2006-mazda-rear-brake-pads-rotors-video/ The link in the description will take you to my website where you will find a link to amazon.com to buy the same one I used for this job. I didn't need to use one of the adapter plates. The tool itself has two knobs that lined up perfectly for this car. Thanks again, -Dan the Fix it Man
Interesting how some brands have changed the spring set up that's on the brakepad itself but looks like an upgrade to me less movement with that tension inside the caliper
Three points: First is that the tool needs to have pins on 19mm centres but non-full kit tools only do 23 and 33mm. The answer is to drive out the tool's pins, then drill two new holes at 19mm centres - I actually drilled, tapped and counterbored for a couple of 12mm M4 socket-head screws to give me a bit of leeway on the spacing. Second is make sure the dust seal doesn't spin with the piston. Third is the anti rattle spring shown here is what seems to be fitted these days but you may get a pad set with the older type that needs to be clipped onto the inner piston.
Hello. I came across this video in looking up the so-called problem with doing these rear disc brakes for a Mazda 3. Very thorough. I also appreciate the way you used a breaker bar when trying to loosen those bracket bolts instead of using a rachet. I guess you like your tools, LOL. I just wanted to comment on one item. I believe you put the pads on in reverse position. I noticed the two dimples on the outer pad and I think that pad goes on the inside. Those dimples line up with the caliper piston and sort of lock in. This way the parking mechanism works properly. When you turn the piston back in, the pins holes are suppose to line up top to bottom. This is the same on many makes of cars I have come across. Otherwise, nice video. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Robert, Thank you for the great feedback, and the nice comment. I just double checked to see if I had made a mistake on this video ...it does happen more than I would like to admit 😉 The diagram I found online on Mazda3tech.com shows the inner pad is the one that has the little spring on the top part of it. Here is the link: www.mazda3tech.com/rear_brake_disc_removal_installation-949.html It even shows the dimples on the pads in the same orientation that I installed them. Again, I appreciate the feedback and for taking the time to comment. Thanks again for watching, and I hope you are a subscriber as well! Take care, Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Weill I'll be snickered. Lol. Right after I wrote my comment to you I viewed another video, on a Ford Escape, and it was very similar to the Mazda brake system. He was demonstrating how to turn them in if you did not have the proper tool. Again the pads were placed the same way you did it. The last car I worked on was a 2000 mustang and the pad placement was as I described. So sir, I apologize and learned something new. Now I will check out some more of your videos. Thanks for replying.
I just discovered this video! I have no plans to do this myself, but I became curious because I’m going to take this exact make and model (and year) in for replacement. I wondered if you could give a ballpark figure for how much this should run at a shop (parts + labor)? Thanks!
I would guess for pads and rotors, probably around $250-$350 per axle for parts and labor. I just googled it and found this result on the Mazda 3 forum: www.mazda3forums.com/62-suspension-brakes/352545-shocking-brake-repair-estimate.html#/topics/352545 Would you please reply with how much you end up spending so everyone on here can see? Thx! -Dan the Fix it Man
Great video...just curious if you have a video on changing out the rear calipers as well...we have a 2007 Mazda 3 and can't find much on replacing them.
Same Mazda 3 that you have except a 2004, I was trying to compress the rear passenger side caliper with a caliper compress tool without using the bleed screw and it was VERY HARD to compress. Could this have been because it's the furthest from the Master Cylinder? and all that fluid has to be pushed back up to the front? I should have used the bleed screw in hindsight. What do you think?
Everybody does the caliper compression the hard way. Simply remove the caliper crown, remove the pads and then screw the crown back into the place with the slide pin bolts. You don't have to do the bolts up tight. What's important is the caliper is now rigid and you can use needle nose pliers to easily rotate the piston.
Mazda 3 2004 rotor surface on the outside of front was good, but the inside of the rotor looked brutalized with deep scoring. Is that pretty typical? or perhaps the previous person changed pads and didn't even look. Even the inside pads have deep scores. Or is all this typical Mazda wear and tear on the inside of the front rotors..... thanks a ton !!!!
Haha, Yes, I was about to do exactly that... can you tell I was a little frustrated with that replacement spring? Luckily the old one worked out just fine, but yeah, that new one was just not working out for me. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
6:00 when you screw piston in is this just to make compression more easier and to reduce risk of piston stuck or there is some actual thread inside and it is impossible to compress piston without simultaneous rotation?
@Dan the Fix it Man Great video. Question, at about 14:30 you start to rotate the wheel and it sounds like the pads rubbing against the rotor? I just replaced the rear brakes/rotors on my 2005 today and it keeps making the same noise even after after driven over 100km. Any ideas?
It's pretty normal to hear a little bit of noise like that when spinning the rotor making it rub on the new pads. This vehicle is nice and quiet when driving/braking. It's kind of hard to diagnose what you're hearing without seeing it in person, but it might be something simple like the pads not seated properly, or sometimes the thin metal backing plate or dust shield might have bent in a little bit making contact with the rotor. If you take it apart again, you might be able to figure it out if something doesn't look right. Hope you are able to get it figured out. Best of luck to you. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
Thanks for the reply Dan. I think I'll take it apart again and make sure there's enough lube on the contact points, and I'll replace the caliper bolts.
I'm finding the need to use the old hardware,springs and clips more frequently because the new hardware is ill fitting. Frustrating at times. Nice job with the video.
Hi Jay, I have done it many times without the special tool, but it will take a bit longer. You can sometimes turn the piston in with channel lock pliers, but you may still have to push it in with a C-clamp in increments as you turn it. Best of luck to you. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
Thanks for very detail video. I purchased the Caliper Wind Back Tool that you provided from amzn.to/2BCmboR. The tool is in a blue case. At about 6:12, your turned clockwise on the the force screw, appears to be a right hand side force screw, and you was working on the driver side brake. www.mazda3tech.com/rear_brake_disc_removal_installation-949.html also shows turning clockwise too. However, the OMT tool box has a left hand side force screw too. Do you need to use the left hand side force screw on your 2006 Mazda 3? I have 2008 Mazda 3. Thanks
Hi David, I have heard that some models require turning the piston in a different direction on either side. I don't remember on this one, and I don't have the vehicle available to check. Also, it does require pressure while turning the pistons in. Thanks for watching! Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man
Very nice guide. Also, thank you so much for not skipping the difficult parts or trying to hide where you had trouble. It reassures me that I'm doing it right, but that I just need to remain determined.
Im sure the spring goes back on the same way it came off, having said that, I have yet to put mine back on.
Exactly!
Very well done - I have looked at a dozen or so of these Videos and yours was by far the easiest to follow. I have no idea why there have been so few views. Thank you !
Thanks Greg,
I appreciate the nice comment, and thanks for watching!
I only posted this one last month, so hopefully in time the views will continue to grow.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
I agree. This is the 4th I watched and the best. 1st to show the use of the rewind tool.
🏆🔧🔩 This is a 5-star how-to video. I would not have attempted the rear brake job on my Mazda3 without watching this video a few times. My tip: buy the $25 piston caliper rewind kit from Amazon Dan recommends. I tried the needle nose pliers trick and then the $10 cube with no results. You really NEED this kit. For what you are saving by doing this job yourself, the $25 kit more than pays for itself in one use. You are a natural and gifted teacher, Dan. I like that you left out the irritating "background music" too many amateurs add to their videos. You delivered straight talk, clear camera angles (tripod), and a thorough step-by-step rundown from start to finish.
Thank you for the kind words John!
Glad to hear you got it done. I agree that the caliper wind back tool really makes it easier...
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Great job. It was nice to see the struggle you had with the new clip just to show the factor new manufacturers parts aren’t always worth using even if they’re “new”. Appreciate the humility there. Some videos try to make it a perfect process which isn’t really a true human experience
Thanks
Thankyou for the post. I wonder how many guys like me you've helped keep a stress free pad replace! 😎👌
Dan, you are the man!! I only wish I had seen your video first. Your video is accurate! Thank you and God bless you.
i have changed many pads over the years but today was a first for me with this type of set up, thanks for making my life easier, great vid clear and easy to follow, your the best Thank you !
A big thank you, I never would have figured it by myself.
Great video, showing the struggle and parts issue helps people do a better job. 👍🇺🇸
This is one of the better videos I've seen for this brake job, thanks. Can you please tell me which brake kit from amazon has the proper attachment to compress the piston?
Hi Martin,
Thank you for the nice comment, and glad you liked my video.
danthefixitman.org/2006-mazda-rear-brake-pads-rotors-video/
The link in the description will take you to my website where you will find a link to amazon.com to buy the same one I used for this job. I didn't need to use one of the adapter plates. The tool itself has two knobs that lined up perfectly for this car.
Thanks again,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Are those retainer clips on the outside of the calipers essential? I'm in Michigan and mine were badly rusted and broke off 😑
Interesting how some brands have changed the spring set up that's on the brakepad itself but looks like an upgrade to me less movement with that tension inside the caliper
Three points: First is that the tool needs to have pins on 19mm centres but non-full kit tools only do 23 and 33mm. The answer is to drive out the tool's pins, then drill two new holes at 19mm centres - I actually drilled, tapped and counterbored for a couple of 12mm M4 socket-head screws to give me a bit of leeway on the spacing.
Second is make sure the dust seal doesn't spin with the piston.
Third is the anti rattle spring shown here is what seems to be fitted these days but you may get a pad set with the older type that needs to be clipped onto the inner piston.
Hello. I came across this video in looking up the so-called problem with doing these rear disc brakes for a Mazda 3. Very thorough. I also appreciate the way you used a breaker bar when trying to loosen those bracket bolts instead of using a rachet. I guess you like your tools, LOL.
I just wanted to comment on one item. I believe you put the pads on in reverse position. I noticed the two dimples on the outer pad and I think that pad goes on the inside. Those dimples line up with the caliper piston and sort of lock in. This way the parking mechanism works properly. When you turn the piston back in, the pins holes are suppose to line up top to bottom.
This is the same on many makes of cars I have come across. Otherwise, nice video. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Robert,
Thank you for the great feedback, and the nice comment.
I just double checked to see if I had made a mistake on this video ...it does happen more than I would like to admit 😉
The diagram I found online on Mazda3tech.com shows the inner pad is the one that has the little spring on the top part of it.
Here is the link:
www.mazda3tech.com/rear_brake_disc_removal_installation-949.html
It even shows the dimples on the pads in the same orientation that I installed them.
Again, I appreciate the feedback and for taking the time to comment.
Thanks again for watching, and I hope you are a subscriber as well!
Take care,
Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Weill I'll be snickered. Lol. Right after I wrote my comment to you I viewed another video, on a Ford Escape, and it was very similar to the Mazda brake system. He was demonstrating how to turn them in if you did not have the proper tool. Again the pads were placed the same way you did it.
The last car I worked on was a 2000 mustang and the pad placement was as I described. So sir, I apologize and learned something new. Now I will check out some more of your videos. Thanks for replying.
No worries my friend,
I am thankful for people like you that give helpful and constructive feedback on my videos.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
I just discovered this video! I have no plans to do this myself, but I became curious because I’m going to take this exact make and model (and year) in for replacement. I wondered if you could give a ballpark figure for how much this should run at a shop (parts + labor)? Thanks!
I would guess for pads and rotors, probably around $250-$350 per axle for parts and labor. I just googled it and found this result on the Mazda 3 forum:
www.mazda3forums.com/62-suspension-brakes/352545-shocking-brake-repair-estimate.html#/topics/352545
Would you please reply with how much you end up spending so everyone on here can see?
Thx!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Great video...just curious if you have a video on changing out the rear calipers as well...we have a 2007 Mazda 3 and can't find much on replacing them.
Excellent video, thanks very much for this, helped loads! 👍🏻
Need to turn when pushing the piston? Or is it necessary to push it with a vise? Thank you
did you got an answer on your question? I am curious too
Same Mazda 3 that you have except a 2004, I was trying to compress the rear passenger side caliper with a caliper compress tool without using the bleed screw and it was VERY HARD to compress. Could this have been because it's the furthest from the Master Cylinder? and all that fluid has to be pushed back up to the front? I should have used the bleed screw in hindsight. What do you think?
Everybody does the caliper compression the hard way. Simply remove the caliper crown, remove the pads and then screw the crown back into the place with the slide pin bolts. You don't have to do the bolts up tight. What's important is the caliper is now rigid and you can use needle nose pliers to easily rotate the piston.
Mazda 3 2004 rotor surface on the outside of front was good, but the inside of the rotor looked brutalized with deep scoring. Is that pretty typical? or perhaps the previous person changed pads and didn't even look. Even the inside pads have deep scores. Or is all this typical Mazda wear and tear on the inside of the front rotors..... thanks a ton !!!!
thank u man
I was waiting on him to get a sledge hammer and two crow bars the get the retainer spring back on. Lol
Haha,
Yes, I was about to do exactly that... can you tell I was a little frustrated with that replacement spring?
Luckily the old one worked out just fine, but yeah, that new one was just not working out for me.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Very helpful!
Is there a specific spot where the Calliper support bracket needs to go back on, or is the spot pretty obvious? Great video btw
bracket mounts one way, but you will know if it's on backwards
Nice video. Is the 7mm standard or metric?
Hi Roberto, the 7mm is metric.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Dan the Fix it Man
Thank you sir!
6:00 when you screw piston in is this just to make compression more easier and to reduce risk of piston stuck or there is some actual thread inside and it is impossible to compress piston without simultaneous rotation?
It’s threaded inside. It will not go back in without turning it while compressing it.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Nice video.
@Dan the Fix it Man Great video. Question, at about 14:30 you start to rotate the wheel and it sounds like the pads rubbing against the rotor? I just replaced the rear brakes/rotors on my 2005 today and it keeps making the same noise even after after driven over 100km. Any ideas?
It's pretty normal to hear a little bit of noise like that when spinning the rotor making it rub on the new pads. This vehicle is nice and quiet when driving/braking. It's kind of hard to diagnose what you're hearing without seeing it in person, but it might be something simple like the pads not seated properly, or sometimes the thin metal backing plate or dust shield might have bent in a little bit making contact with the rotor. If you take it apart again, you might be able to figure it out if something doesn't look right.
Hope you are able to get it figured out.
Best of luck to you.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Thanks for the reply Dan. I think I'll take it apart again and make sure there's enough lube on the contact points, and I'll replace the caliper bolts.
where exactly did you jack up the rear from?
Bravo👏
I'm finding the need to use the old hardware,springs and clips more frequently because the new hardware is ill fitting. Frustrating at times. Nice job with the video.
Yeah, I have run into that issue a few times as well. Thanks for watching, and best of luck to you.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
What function does the wire on the outside of the caliper serve ?
Is it possible to compress the piston without the special tool? Thanks Dan.
Hi Jay,
I have done it many times without the special tool, but it will take a bit longer. You can sometimes turn the piston in with channel lock pliers, but you may still have to push it in with a C-clamp in increments as you turn it. Best of luck to you.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Do you have to rebalance your tires after this job?
No need to rebalance tires after doing this.
Dan the Fix it Man thanks. My dad and I had a conversation back and forth about it lol.
first link is a dead link; there's no compression tool anymore
Thanks for very detail video. I purchased the Caliper Wind Back Tool that you provided from amzn.to/2BCmboR. The tool is in a blue case. At about 6:12, your turned clockwise on the the force screw, appears to be a right hand side force screw, and you was working on the driver side brake. www.mazda3tech.com/rear_brake_disc_removal_installation-949.html also shows turning clockwise too. However, the OMT tool box has a left hand side force screw too. Do you need to use the left hand side force screw on your 2006 Mazda 3? I have 2008 Mazda 3. Thanks
Hello. I'm turning the piston but won't go back. What might be the problem?
Hi David,
I have heard that some models require turning the piston in a different direction on either side. I don't remember on this one, and I don't have the vehicle available to check. Also, it does require pressure while turning the pistons in.
Thanks for watching!
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Dont grease pads at all its attracts dirt and actually dose opposite to lubes.
Reserve grease on slider pins only
dont use grease. grease is a magnet for dirt.