Love the tutorial for making a mould using Shapr3d and printing with Tenacious. I've not to play with that one, as the cost of importing that resin here is prohibitive, and it takes a good amount of resin to make a mould. I've read that most people tend to mix Tenacious as a small percentage to their regular resins for this purpose. The process shown with Sculpt is what I've been doing for a while now. Works really well for me, and uses much less material than printing a whole mould would, and the moulds are consistently good, even with my trashy chuck frame in kiln under pressure method lol. The standard Grey variation of Sculpt is indeed a bit limited in what temperature rubber you can use, but their newer variant, Sculpt Ultra White, is rated to over 420F. Which lets is be used with the higher temps of stiffer rubbers :) Thanks as always for sharing dude!
Fusion360 also has the Subtract function if you have that application. We've already begun the follow up video this this method using some different engineered resins and it's working way better than we expected, don't miss it.
@@ClearMindJewellery I'm familiar with Fusion 360, actually learnt it via that method first, and hated it 🤣 Apparently they've fixed the process and streamlined it to function a lot better and more fluidly than the methods I learnt. Tbh, I'm not a fan of that app, and would rather find literally any other tool path. I don't trust a company that forces you to give them full access to your work and save on their servers, or that needs an always on internet connection. Looking forward to seeing your next videos on the topic! You're definitely on ball with the best ideas 🤘 Check out the new Zbrush 2022 tool, BasRelief, and you may wet yourself with excitement as you consider it's application for jewelers 😍
Thank youuu this is so helpful and interesting thank you for making and sharing … so excited to see more as I haven’t found much info about jewelry making and 3D printing out there
I have been looking into this resin for mold making. SuperHDT has The Highest Heat Deflection Temperature 464°F for Precise Prototypes with High-Temperature Resistance, Made in Korea by 3DMaterials (500g).
So what was wrong with the ring that came out of the mold made with the ST Tenacious, other than you not being "super enthused" about it? If the mold was any more flexible you'd get misaligned edges when you brought the two sides together and big seams in the casted pieces.
Tenacious is more of a “mixer” in the resin world. It’s better suited to making tough resins less brittle than it is to printing on its own for use in flexible applications. Regular RTV, and vulcanized moulds, are five times more flexible than this printed mold. As the sides press together the seams disappears and you end up with less flashing on your wax injections due to the softness of that mould material. And as noted in the video, the less flexible your mould is the harder it will be to remove complex designs from the mould.
Thanks for the video. I am interested in the vulcanized rubber method. I really like the hemisphere alignment method. I'm going to use that the next chance I get. Btw the pronunciation is fill-it not fill-ay
Hi. Can you recommend a resin that is good for making the molds for list wax . I can’t afford to a vulcaniser at present and it’s costing a lot to send them away. I wonder if anyone has made a resin that could be used like the delft clay casting?!!
I know this is an old video, but... Why not off set your spheres instead of line then up, just bring two diagonal corners equally inwards towards each other? This way the mold can only go together one way and there is no opportunity for putting the mold together wrong? Just a thought, maybe there's a reason you can't do it that way.
@@ClearMindJewellery yeah I was thinking that might be the case, but if I ever feel like getting weird I’ll try it and report back. One more question: how would you rate Shapr compared to Blender? I like Blender so far, but they way you used Shapr made it look more user friendly and possibly easier, but then again I know you have been using it for a long time.
This type of mold does not work. Mold must be silicone. The models are very complex and this mold takes time to be pressed and costs a lot!!  This type of mold does not work. Mold must be silicone. The models are very complex and this mold takes time to be pressed and costs a lot!!
![Create a Mold Tutorial in [ Shapr3D ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/465uql9ki1c/mqdefault.jpg)
![Create a Mold Tutorial in [ Shapr3D ]](/img/tr.png)
Get 10% off your yearly Shapr 3d plan with code: ClearMindJewellery bit.ly/3oWEBee
Love the tutorial for making a mould using Shapr3d and printing with Tenacious. I've not to play with that one, as the cost of importing that resin here is prohibitive, and it takes a good amount of resin to make a mould. I've read that most people tend to mix Tenacious as a small percentage to their regular resins for this purpose. The process shown with Sculpt is what I've been doing for a while now. Works really well for me, and uses much less material than printing a whole mould would, and the moulds are consistently good, even with my trashy chuck frame in kiln under pressure method lol. The standard Grey variation of Sculpt is indeed a bit limited in what temperature rubber you can use, but their newer variant, Sculpt Ultra White, is rated to over 420F. Which lets is be used with the higher temps of stiffer rubbers :)
Thanks as always for sharing dude!
Fusion360 also has the Subtract function if you have that application.
We've already begun the follow up video this this method using some different engineered resins and it's working way better than we expected, don't miss it.
@@ClearMindJewellery I'm familiar with Fusion 360, actually learnt it via that method first, and hated it 🤣 Apparently they've fixed the process and streamlined it to function a lot better and more fluidly than the methods I learnt. Tbh, I'm not a fan of that app, and would rather find literally any other tool path. I don't trust a company that forces you to give them full access to your work and save on their servers, or that needs an always on internet connection.
Looking forward to seeing your next videos on the topic! You're definitely on ball with the best ideas 🤘 Check out the new Zbrush 2022 tool, BasRelief, and you may wet yourself with excitement as you consider it's application for jewelers 😍
Thank youuu this is so helpful and interesting thank you for making and sharing … so excited to see more as I haven’t found much info about jewelry making and 3D printing out there
We've already got the follow up video for this technique in the works and it's turning out much much better than expected, don't miss it.
You can also cut the ring shape out of the casteldo rubber to help get rid of the air bubbles
Yes you're right, the vulcanized test wasn't the best but it was more a proof of concept. We're going to make a follow up video to this that's better.
@@ClearMindJewellery looking forward to it.
Very well done !
Fantastic idea let’s find a resin !
Apply lab work and B9 sent us some samples that were promising. Would recommend taking a look.
Thank you
I have been looking into this resin for mold making. SuperHDT has The Highest Heat Deflection Temperature 464°F for Precise Prototypes with High-Temperature Resistance, Made in Korea by 3DMaterials (500g).
this is such a dope channel :) keep it up
So what was wrong with the ring that came out of the mold made with the ST Tenacious, other than you not being "super enthused" about it? If the mold was any more flexible you'd get misaligned edges when you brought the two sides together and big seams in the casted pieces.
Tenacious is more of a “mixer” in the resin world. It’s better suited to making tough resins less brittle than it is to printing on its own for use in flexible applications.
Regular RTV, and vulcanized moulds, are five times more flexible than this printed mold. As the sides press together the seams disappears and you end up with less flashing on your wax injections due to the softness of that mould material.
And as noted in the video, the less flexible your mould is the harder it will be to remove complex designs from the mould.
Interesting ideas
Hey, I'm looking to do this method. Are there any resins you can recommend since this video?
The B9 material turned out well but they sent the mold pre-printed as it’s an “eco-system”. The apply lab work flexible is pretty good as well
Thanks for the video. I am interested in the vulcanized rubber method. I really like the hemisphere alignment method. I'm going to use that the next chance I get.
Btw the pronunciation is fill-it not fill-ay
Please post a link for the heat resistant resin. Thank you and have a most awesome day!
It depends where you are, Siraya has multiple stores depending on country siraya.tech/collections
Hi. Can you recommend a resin that is good for making the molds for list wax . I can’t afford to a vulcaniser at present and it’s costing a lot to send them away. I wonder if anyone has made a resin that could be used like the delft clay casting?!!
You can use pretty much any 3D printing resin for casting with Delft clay, since its a non destructive casting method.
I know this is an old video, but... Why not off set your spheres instead of line then up, just bring two diagonal corners equally inwards towards each other? This way the mold can only go together one way and there is no opportunity for putting the mold together wrong? Just a thought, maybe there's a reason you can't do it that way.
Regardless of how you place the spheres as long you place some on the far edge (opposite the opening) there is no way to put the mold together wrong.
Do you think you could get away with vulcanizing their castable resin?
Unlikely. Even some regular resins can’t withstand the vulcanizing process. It would probably deform the detail if not cause pockets to form.
@@ClearMindJewellery yeah I was thinking that might be the case, but if I ever feel like getting weird I’ll try it and report back.
One more question: how would you rate Shapr compared to Blender? I like Blender so far, but they way you used Shapr made it look more user friendly and possibly easier, but then again I know you have been using it for a long time.
Many parts of the process were not demonstrated in the video, rendering it useless as a standalone video
This method doesn't work
This type of mold does not work. Mold must be silicone. The models are very complex and this mold takes time to be pressed and costs a lot!!

This type of mold does not work. Mold must be silicone. The models are very complex and this mold takes time to be pressed and costs a lot!!