Dude you know your stuff... I've been trying to find good resin casting info on UA-cam for ages and it's such a sea of people trying it for the first or second time and posting as an "expert". Thanks for good info. I'll be watching more.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You have done your homework pretty good; while I'm thanking you, a flask has been placed in the oven to poove you right. I have 40 years of experience in the jewelry business, but I recently joined this 3D printing trend, and it has been a hell of a ride! And I love it!
@@ClearMindJewellery that's yo opinion that it would be boring,dude of people want to see it give them the Content,unless you don't want to really give it all away,then of so just say that or atleast charge,you clearly not listening to your audience, that Video would probably do crazy numbers
I am doing home casting. Majority of problems only with resin castable prints, as they require proper and perfect handling like good investment and perfectly calibrated burnout cycles. For regular wax only when you have big flasks - you require same procedure. I was able to cast in metal tubes (bought cuts from ebay for exhaust pipes, around 1mm walls) 20mm, 30mm and 40mm diameter, they fit 1 regular jewelry like ring or few small ones. Simply was putting the flasks into slow cooker to evaporate a bit water and burnout the wax (weirdly enough but slow cooker removes around 90-95% of regular wax) then on casting day I heat the flask with torch carefully around till the wall starting to glow it is around 10-15 minutes, then put metal grain on top of flask, melt it in the flask and while holding the torch so the metal won't solidify I putting flask into home made build vacuum machine and so far I did that way maybe 10 or 12 batches ( each batch around 4-5 pieces) and only 2 batches was faulty (it was first 2 tries, and faulty as only half of castings was successful, so for me it is faulty batch), Al the rest of the times the castings was 100% copy of wax models. Now I have normal programmable kiln, because it takes a bit of time to do one piece at a time, and not worth in long term, but for anyone just starting and trying I think is good practice as whole set up is - propane torch $30 + vacuum pump $60-80 + few hoses $15 + few small parts and heat resistant pourable silicone $35. So won't break your budget to start.
Love your videos! Very informative. I have finally started casting after over a decade of wanting to. I am mostly doing sword fittings, but I will venture into jewelry and other decorative pieces.
Great step-by-step. I was going to ask if you turned the flask up during the burnout (let gasses from the castable resin go up and away) but your flask removal motion from the kiln to vacuum answered that for me. Good stuff!
by flask removal motion you mean those 2 sticks on the bottom, right? does that mean I don't have to turn the flask if I use those sticks on the bottom?
@@sancakli454 The sticks keep the crucible off of the bottom and allow air circulation as well as gases and wax out (not a pro, just what I've read). I use a piece of graphite to lift my flask off the bottom.
Centrifugal casting is very different because you melt the bronze once the flask is in the cradle rapidly losing heat.. I take my flask out at about 600c which works out well for 3" flasks..
Thanks man. The kiln is probably the next thing to get upgraded lmao If you have any questions leave a comment and we'll put it in the topic suggestions pile for a video.
2 questions: 1) I am using Siraya Tech Cast - Which have you found to be better - Plasticast or Optima? 2) How do you dispose of the quech water responsibly? I am not sure if there is anything toxic in it.
My burnout cycle is super fast.. I invest the 3" flasks, wait maybe 30 minutes, then into the kiln to dewax from cold at 149c, once it reaches that temp I wait another 30 minutes, remove my wax tray and ramp it up to 371c and wait maybe 30 minutes until the steam stops coming out of the spy hole of the kiln, then ramp it up again to 732c and leave it for an hour and a half, then cast.. The whole cycle from wax models to cast bronze is about 3 1/2 hours. I'm pushing my luck but I get near enough 100% success rate.. Its not always necessary to follow the guidlines exactly because your equipment varies..
Glad to hear you’re having some success with rapid burnout. For beginners I would still recommend they follow along with the guidelines based on the size of flask and can experiment later if needed for resins etc. It’s not necessary but does offer the best consistency.
Such a fantastic and informative video, thank you so much. Quick question: I use bluecast x5 and plasticast bandust and occasionally i'll have some slight perosity left on the casting, (small dents / divits). Would you recommend holding the material removal temperature for longer to combat this or is there another suggestion you may have? Thank you so much for these videos, you've helped me a ton in this learning process!
If you are under or at the two hour hold at 1350.F we would definitely recommend trying a slightly longer hold (up to 4 hours). It is hard to recommend a solution without going through your process and all the possible issues that could occur, this is why we created the membership program.
Hi! Very good job, keep it up 👍 Just one question about burnout timing: do you think a much slower ramp than recommended might be a problem? I.e. going from 300 to 700 deg over 3 hours instead of 1 may cause some remarkable effect on the investment? Just out of curiosity… Thanks in advance! Greetings from Rome 🇮🇹
Lengthening the burnout time is usually a good thing. Haven't heard of many issues caused by it. More so issues caused by ramping to high in temp (over what's recommended).
Is there a print out for step by step instruction on the casting process? I have a manual kiln by Rapid Pro and I’m struggling with how to set the temp and when to move to the next temp. I have the same vacuum as yours and I have a simple melter. Everything is brand new and I can’t find any youtube videos even from the company on their manual kiln.
We have this digital download that has a written version of the burnout in the video (along with investment mixing ratios etc) clearmindcasting.com/products/lost-wax-casting-cheat-sheet-poster
Hey, Does this sounds valid burnout cycle for Plasticast investment - Resin - Siraya Cast - sterling silver - flask 9cmx10cm Place flask into kiln at 150c, hold 3h (150c), raise 2h to 370c, hold 2h (370c), raise 2h to 730c, hold 2h (730c), lower 1h to 450c, hold for 2h (450c) -> CAST
Please help me.. I have seen Burnout Klin from TableTop(electric) that is perfect for 3D wachs. I cannot have it in Germany because ih has just 110v and i need 220V (Europe). Can you tell me what another Klin is also good but on the budget. Thank you!
We can add this to the list. We will have to take some time to think of a format as porosity and other surface issues can have a lot of diffrent causes.
Hi, I’m using the Wax Castable Resin from Power Resins. Do you know the correct temperature and time period I need to burn this wax properly, I keep getting porosity in my my cast!! 😭. Much Thanks.
We cast all of the resins we review using the guideline in this video, including Power Resin Wax. Surface texture has multiple causes. If you are using a burnout schedule like the one we described it could be something else in your process causing the issue.
@@ClearMindJewellery tried 842 f which is 450 c and castings wasn’t great as for example in 600c which is 1112 f. In this temp every thing came out smooth and sharp (wax not resin, resin comes out bad)
Yes. We’ve been working to find a good flexible resin for this and have also recently been looking at heat rated resins that work for making large spru’s suitable for sculpture. Jewellery Mold with B9 Resilient Resin ua-cam.com/video/dQuKXyaTDNs/v-deo.html
Good morning, I would like to ask you about pouring siraya tech purple resin. the pouring temperature when taken out of the oven and melted. For silver and gold, what temperature should the cylinder be to remove it and melt it.
Avoiding thermal shock?? If you follow a standard burnout you should not see any thermal shock, as you are slowly steadily increasing and or lowering your temperatures.. So individuals see thermal shock when the ramp down to quickly after a regular burnout, or if they are experimenting with a rapid burnout and don't have long enough transitional phases.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you for your reply. From it I believe I found what I’m doing wrong. I’ve been going from 1350 to 850/950 straight away thinking that the time it takes from the kiln to cold is slow enough for te flask.
hello from Greece!!! Congrats for your work bro! Your tips help me a LOT!! Can i ask something? If my flask with investment after the vacuum sits longer than 6hours, and i have to do the casting the other day, what should i do? Thank you man
As we’ve been looking into rapid burnouts we’ve actually been experimenting with investing times. We’ve left flasks overnight, to cast the next morning, and it works just fine. We’ve also cast the with just 2hrs of setup time. But you should test it out before changing your whole workflow.
Hey 👋 thanks. I would put size (unless your doing full size sculptures) lower on the list then say your model material or your metal. So it will depend on this factors as well. For example if we print DND minis to later cast we would use Plasticast just at a slightly thicker mixing ratio. You can find our more here ➡️ What is the best lost wax casting investment? How to pick an investment for Wax or 3D Print casting ua-cam.com/video/Oe2wxE-fXmU/v-deo.html
Newbie.. very first attempt at replicating a Bas Relief plaque in .999 silver (3.25" X 5.25" with average .5" thickness). The Flask is 5.5" in diameter and 7.5" Tall. Investment is Prestige Oro. Three questions please: (1) Position in Flask.. does it matter if wax model is laying horizontally on its back (very small amount of Investment required), or vertically on its short end (quite a bit more investment required)? (2) Using latter choice, approximately how long should that last burnout phase be? (3) Is there a minimum required thickness of Investment called for around the wax model? Thank you for your help.. Dan
(1) a sand caster would tell you to put the lettering facing down. We've done plaques vertically in the past. Its really going to depend on how you spru it. (instagram.com/p/CNm9RFFnoMz/?img_index=1) (2) again depends on material if resin stick to a solid 2-3 hrs at peak. (3) we like to keep a 1/4" to avoid blow outs. Try to avoid leading edges at this thickness. (we have bees with antennas for example) As if it cracks thats always were it will blowout. - Shannon
Where do you buy the bell to filtrate the air?? What bell i need to buy, is the same of bell kitchen or is different? What kind of filter needs the bell you use
Hello. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It's much appreciated! That said, I have question... I have a creality halot sky printer w/ Formware 3d slicer and Im "trying" to use siraya tech cast resin for making parts. I am having failure after failure. What I mean is the prints starting out but then what appears like its breaking off. But in the vat theres just a lump resin. Not at all what you'd expect to see with respect of what remains on the build plate. I've tried exposure ranges from 2.8 - 8seconds, lift height and speed etc. I've tried recalibrating the printer/slicer, but nothing seens to help. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hello, thanks for the excellent video. I have resin rings on a wax tree. Is it possible to steam out resin? Was trying to minimize venting smoke to neighbors, so thought steaming. Should I go with straight burnout for resin models. Thank you.
Hey great vid very informative, I have been thinking about starting casting and I have a question, how about if I use 10 of that smaller flask 14:28 and get 20 pieces in 8 hours instead of using 4x6 flask for 13 hours? Would that work :)) I assume that Owen is around is around 12x9x9 inside and can carry 10 of that smaller flask, is that correct? :)
Are you using that same burnout cycle for Bluecast X One? I just got some and on the bottle they have a sticker saying for the burnout: 302F/3 hours, 1300F/3 hours, and a ramp time of 47F/minute. I was surprised they left out the 700F step and had what seemed to me to be a fast ramp time.
As X One is the most wax like resin we have used (out of 20+ something options) it doesn't surprise me. I would suspect that they have done testing of their own and found this to work. It just depends on your process (and if they are expecting you to use their investment). We still use a longer burnout with X One as we usually have a mixed flask with other resins and waxes.
Great information here..thank you! I'm putting my studio together and the part I'm most stuck on is finding a burnout kiln that doesn't cost a fortune (under $600). Do you have any advise on where I can look? Thanks in advance!
Most of the brands we recommend are unfortunately creating units almost double your budget. However finding used is not impossible. Our first kiln was free, we just go another this weekend for $200 from a facebook group.
I’m not getting clean burn outs for my cast in place. The stones change color (working with CZ right now för starting), some of them turn orange! I’ve been using red injection wax and I’m wondering if this could be the problem? Should I try to do a de waxing before the burnout? Could that maybe help?
When you say you need to leave it longer to burn out lost wax if the flask is smaller would it be the same if you used a very dance amount of wax for your mould or a lot of very small things or is just because heating the investment takes longer I was going to apply this to a dental settings also if you know anywhere else I can get that sort information
Most melting furnaces will not work in a way that is suitable to properly setup investment and evacuate the wax or resin. You will also need to have your flask coming down at the same time your metal is heating up.
Hello! I was wondering what to do with the invested flask if you have to leave it for more than 6 hours. You started to say that you can wrap it but I was just curious. Was thinking I could get flask ready at end of day, leave it overnight, then start butnout process first thing next morning. Thank you for all your amazing work on this channel!!
Hi TB, I don't know about resin or PLA models, but we routinely let invested wax (jewelry) models sit for days before burnout with no issues. The key is to wrap it in plastic so it won't dry any before burnout. If I know it is going to be a few days, I'll dip the flask into a bucket of water briefly before putting in plastic. We also steam out flasks for 1 hour to evacuate the bulk of the wax before putting it in the cold kiln. This helps reduce those nasty burnout fumes, as Dan says, good exhaust ventilation is essential. I doubt this step would help with a resin or PLA model.
My metal melted through the crucible into my furnace so I wasn’t able to cast today, I took the flask out of the kiln and let it cool, I hope to cast it tomorrow. Would it be okay to just put the flask in the kiln and set to casting temp?
Can I ask a question please. If I use steam to remove the wax, does this change the firing schedule for the burn out? Now that the wax is gone, it seems that would change the schedule.
Originally we would have said no but with our rapid burnout experiments we're more inclined to say a shorter burnout is possible. You still need to get it up to temp to cure the investment, get rid of moisture, get rid of wax residue, and get to casting temperature with your flask. But can probably be shorter.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you for that. I'll try each ramp a little slower. I have a small flask so I'll reduce the ramp up and hold for each segment to maybe half and see how that goes.
Hi great channel thank you for your hard work, I am having an issue where my wax model is very ruff and doesn’t have a smooth surface is there anything I can do to get a clean surface?
Something we always recommend in our lost wax casting classes is lighter fluid. Take a small amount on a rag and you can clear away some of the filing marks. I think we show this in the live stream "demo" for our online course. Probably somewhere toward the end.
You would have to connect with a local makers space or other artist network. If the person whom owns the kiln is doing something other then jewellery they may be unlikely to want to share.
I picked up 7 4x5" sections of stainless pipe at my local metal supply store for $90. I don't have a welder to add a ring so I was going to try the straight pipe with wax straws around the border or maybe add a bolt at the top at 12/3/6/9 oclock and then a silicon gasket. I've never casted before. I could just buy the flasks but I'm inclined to build stuff. Any advice? :)
I have built my own flasks before out of mild steel and welding on the flange ring. the biggest issue was keeping the ring flat. Any gaps between the flange and the rim of your vacuum chamber will cause issues with your cast. You can just use the pipe without a flange. But you will only get vacuum drawn from the bottom. Using the straws is a way of improving the vacuum draw across more surface area with a vacuum table.
Thank you for your video on burn out process of resind models.I am interested to talk with you related to industrial scale burnout furnces for 3D printed models using PMMA materia; which is kind of indutrial wax type polymrtic material .Can you suggest me the best wat to interact with you on this topic I am also intereste to kwon best burnout furnace manufacturer For Sizes such as 10 moulds (Flasks with flange to burn out in one cycle of say 12 hours or 8 hours Anwar
If you are looking for coaching or consulting for larger manufacturing we have options on our website to purchase a coaching slot. clearmindcasting.com/collections/coaching-and-digital-downloads
As long as the kiln is large enough, can get up to and above 1350.F, and can be reliably programmed and left to run for 12hrs or more you should be fine. The kiln that we might get next is technically a heat treating kiln (for blacksmithing) but it meets all the above parameters.
@@ClearMindJewellery I was about to buy one so I recently asked Evenheat about their heat-treating kilns and they told me they are designed to cycle off and not stay on for extended times like for burnouts...
An air gap in general is required for a good clean burn. Our kiln is lucky to give is 1/4" with the 6" tall flasks and we haven't had any issues with that set up for years, but the more room the better. When our kiln dies I'm considering the Paragon Dragon, which would allow us to give as much room as we wanted.
I want to know what you guys do with regards for ventilation etc... i want to do lwc however i have nowhere suitable outdoor and to rent a workshop it costs too much. What would you suggest for someone who is a hobbyist like myself that has all the equipment but nowhere to do it
We have the quatro ductless ventilation hood. However the filters easily become overwhelmed with the printed resin which makes the "ductless" part useless and we ended up venting it outside anyway. ua-cam.com/video/M-2txdK8I_o/v-deo.html You need ventilation if you are going to be doing this as you don't want to be breathing this stuff in. If you can grab a fan off amazon that can do 300 cfm and some flexable ducting from a local hardware store you can put something together. ua-cam.com/video/9xoe8WjbOMY/v-deo.html
It was speed up as we did another video on investment the week before this one. If you leave your investment for more then 6 hrs it will dry and you may experience cracking.
We have yet to try any resin from iFun. We have tried 17 different resins using the same burnout as talked about in this video so I would start there. I would also recommend looking at their support docs www.ifun3d.com/download.html
Please help. I’m having problems with the burnout process. I have a new kiln. It doesn’t have a hold. I do everything manually. I’m confused by the cool down time and the hold time. I do 300 for a hr. 700 for a hr. 1250 for a hr. Then pour. Is that not correct? Using sterling silver. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
hello how is it going, love your channel by the way. i was wondering how come your rubber gaskets never warp when you put the hot flask on the vaccume machine? i always have problems with the warping which ends up causing a bad seal on my vaccume
I'm afraid I don't have a solid answer. We're using the stock gasket that came with the machine without any special treatment or care, ours just doesn't warp. It is starting to break down heavily and will need replacing soon, at which point we have a much thicker gasket and a graphite cover to try, that may be something to look into.
@@ClearMindJewellery then u are so lucky i have created a work around by making a cut out from thick cardboard then wetting it and placing on top of the gasket. seems to work 90% of thr time hehe. where would i be able to buy new thicker gaskets?
@G Major Hi fella we had the same issue when we started casting as we're in the Uk and supplies are limited. I recommend getting a good gasket from an american supplier (red ones seem best) and lowering your flask casting temperature slightly.
Hello, i keep having some problems with porosity in my sterling silver castings. I use sirayatech cast purple and plasticast. I use the burnout from plasticast pdf and no luck. The mixing ratio i use is 40:100. I mainly make blings. Like pave nameplates and championship rings. I can't figure out the proper schedule for the investment. Can you help me please with some ideas? (i tried a lot of burnout schedules but neither seem to work)
So if its porosity (and not another form of texture) usually the part of your burnout that will cause issues is the final temperature of the flask at time of cast. This can also be a 2-in-1 issue if your metal temp is also off, the two off temperatures just compound and make the porosity worse. What's your SS temp and your final flask temp?
So the flask is about 90.C higher then I would go and the metal about 20.C higher. Metal is not a huge issue but I would cool the flask down a little more. There are other reasons for porosity related to metal quality and spru formation that might be more of an issue as your within range in terms of temp. Is the porosity more bubbly or more organic looking? If more round and bubbly lower that flask temp the 90.C (at least) and take a look at your metal quality). If more organic looking, look at your spruing (especially if you are new to casting.) Hope that helps.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you very much for your help. I will try tomorrow morning when the burnout is finished and i'll let you know how it goes. Also the porosity is more bubbly looking. Also i just realised that the porosity starts at the first pieces on the three and the last ones. In the middle the cast is perfect.
Hello, so i just recasted and the problem is the same. I observed that the defects appear just where the resin pieces come. The wax tree casts almost perfect (just very little holes here and there that could be sanded off easy). Could the problems be because of overcuring the resin? I did clen it with isopropilic alcohol and cure it in glycerine 30 min on one part and another 30 on the other so it cures everywhere.
Most resin manufacturers use a "wax like" compound up to 20-40% already. Brands such as Bluecast are pushing this. Its only the more "plastic based polymer" castable resins where you have to be thinking about the longer burnouts at this point.
In the burn out process, being that long, do you recommend leaving the kiln unattended or how do you deal with it?, im just curious to know if the whole process is safe? Many thanks from the Uk
We do an overnight burnout as that is what best fits our schedule. There is risk involved with any heating process but as long as your equipment is properly maintained and regularly checked the risk is manageable.
Sir, please help me I use phosphate bonded investment, Do i still need water removal and thermal trantition phase in my burnout cycle ? Because my mould always cracking ( when i was using wax , i directly raise the temperature from 0 to 1000 farenheit and hold for 1 hour and then cast, everything is fine ) but now i changed to digital castable resin eoth siraya tech cast purple
What was the time for the raise from 0-1000? If you are trying to do a rapid burnout with resin it will likely fail. Resin behaves differently than wax during burnout.
@@ClearMindJewellery i actually raise from 0 to 860⁰C as fast as possible, maybe it is thermal shock. I will try hold at 300⁰F first for water removal and try to raise to high temp 1350⁰F for pattern removal, as you said we can rapid burnout if using phosphate bonded ? Because im in dental industry
Sir, i have tried 3 phase burnout 1. 150⁰C for 1 hour 2. 370⁰C for 1 hour 3. 730⁰C for 1 hour but my phosphate bonded mould ring still cracked on high temp.
Paragon is probably the best choice currently, they cater to a variety of fields but depending on your location that’ll depend. The SC-2 or SC-3 are both great choices.
I was using the fov investment it worked great. I switch to the sc20 investment now i cant get my mold out of the investment it keeps breaking off. What is wrong?
FOV is suitable for high temp metals which may mean it has strengthening agents. SC20 is a more generic investment for wax and regular temp metals. So if you are using resins or high temp metals it won’t be suitable.
Am casting silver mens rings. How can I speak with you personally am new to casting and i would like to show you some of my work. Maybe even join ur class.
@@agustinenathan3495 we do not have classes but online coaching. If you want to receive one on one assistance, there are options on our website. If you are more into a community based dynamic learning alongside other individuals, we have a UA-cam membership program that grants access to our Discord.
You had mentioned to wrap your molds after you put in your investment in if you are not going to use them within 6 hours. Why and with what. When I played this video you started to say something but then it glitches and moved on to a different topic
It's not a glitch it's a speed up edit, this video was meant to go over the burnout process not the entire casting process. We did a diffrent video about investment: ua-cam.com/video/Oe2wxE-fXmU/v-deo.html (and have more detail in our purchasable content clearmindcasting.com/collections/classes/products/online-lesson-investment-mixing) We wrap our flasks immediately after the mixing is done if we know it won't be going into the kiln for another 6 hours, with a damp rag. As if you are working with clay. As you don't want cracking. The flask needs to have some moisture, going into the kiln, or it becomes more difficult to get a successful cast.
After letting the investment settle I use a hand drill water pump.. thing and drain off the water I can from the top which is relatively clear. Then empty the basin into a bucket and let whatever water is left in the investment evaporate for a few days, then transfers into plastic bag and into the garbage.
hey man, i would love you discord information, ive been having some issues with my recent castings and would like to perfect them, talking about it would for sure help me out. I can show you the stuff i make, im a self-taught jeweler and have been messing with all sorts of stuff for about 3 years now. i bought my first resin printer about a year ago so i could start going crazy in cad and make insane pieces. but since there is so much more detail than when i was wax casting im having issues with porosity. i also upgraded to almost the same set up you have. please reach out and let me know if i can get ahold of you via discord or something. thanks for the videos man, im gonna keep watching.
Our Discord is a members only benefit (more info here ua-cam.com/channels/r7WVfyXuUogXyEEn1dmWDA.htmljoin) Those that started with Wax sometimes find it harder to transition into 3D prints as they expect the process to be the same, but resin has some different quirks. If your porosity is quite serious to the point of being more an asphalt texture I would definitely recommend looking to see if we've reviewed the resin you are using to get better insight into post processing etc. Instagram is always an option for one or two quick questions (linked in bio).
When people do a burnout without steaming their wax out does the wax just goto the bottom of the kiln and burn off? or do they put a plate of sorts to catch the wax?
Either are ok. Some kilns have enough space for a small shelf with a tray underneath it that you can remove at a certain point in the burnout process so that the wax isn't burned. Personally we do not have such a /shelf tray because we don't have enough room for it and our normal flask size in the kiln at the same time, and I run an overnight burnout so I wouldn't be there to remove it any way. The wax/resin burnout doesn't outwardly appear to have much effect on the kiln insulation. If I had the option I would certainly dewax/remove a drip tray rather than have it burn simply to save on ventilation filters and whatever benefit could be had for the kiln.
Dude you know your stuff... I've been trying to find good resin casting info on UA-cam for ages and it's such a sea of people trying it for the first or second time and posting as an "expert". Thanks for good info. I'll be watching more.
Kind thanks for this series, it's helped my understanding and consequently saved my time and efforts....
I love how willing you are to help others out by providing all this info, really informative. Thank you 😊
The lack of transparency in this industry can be really annoying. We’re glad people appreciate the work we do.
@@ClearMindJewelleryhow long is the ramp down hold time for the last step before adding metal ?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You have done your homework pretty good; while I'm thanking you, a flask has been placed in the oven to poove you right. I have 40 years of experience in the jewelry business, but I recently joined this 3D printing trend, and it has been a hell of a ride! And I love it!
I have been waiting forever for someone to finally put a good video out about this. Would love to see it in action
It would be kinda boring as a video all on its own but this is the same process that we use in all of our project videos and reviews.
@@ClearMindJewellery that's yo opinion that it would be boring,dude of people want to see it give them the Content,unless you don't want to really give it all away,then of so just say that or atleast charge,you clearly not listening to your audience, that Video would probably do crazy numbers
I am doing home casting. Majority of problems only with resin castable prints, as they require proper and perfect handling like good investment and perfectly calibrated burnout cycles. For regular wax only when you have big flasks - you require same procedure. I was able to cast in metal tubes (bought cuts from ebay for exhaust pipes, around 1mm walls) 20mm, 30mm and 40mm diameter, they fit 1 regular jewelry like ring or few small ones. Simply was putting the flasks into slow cooker to evaporate a bit water and burnout the wax (weirdly enough but slow cooker removes around 90-95% of regular wax) then on casting day I heat the flask with torch carefully around till the wall starting to glow it is around 10-15 minutes, then put metal grain on top of flask, melt it in the flask and while holding the torch so the metal won't solidify I putting flask into home made build vacuum machine and so far I did that way maybe 10 or 12 batches ( each batch around 4-5 pieces) and only 2 batches was faulty (it was first 2 tries, and faulty as only half of castings was successful, so for me it is faulty batch), Al the rest of the times the castings was 100% copy of wax models. Now I have normal programmable kiln, because it takes a bit of time to do one piece at a time, and not worth in long term, but for anyone just starting and trying I think is good practice as whole set up is - propane torch $30 + vacuum pump $60-80 + few hoses $15 + few small parts and heat resistant pourable silicone $35. So won't break your budget to start.
Wow im impressed by your diy skillls
Love your videos! Very informative. I have finally started casting after over a decade of wanting to. I am mostly doing sword fittings, but I will venture into jewelry and other decorative pieces.
Thanks for that, super helpful especially on the resin burnout part
No problem 👍
Keep up the great work. I respect the hard work that you are doing.
I appreciate that!
I was wrong. I was doing the burnout process wrong. I have followed your steps and the result has been perfect. Thank you
Glad it helped
Great step-by-step.
I was going to ask if you turned the flask up during the burnout (let gasses from the castable resin go up and away) but your flask removal motion from the kiln to vacuum answered that for me. Good stuff!
by flask removal motion you mean those 2 sticks on the bottom, right? does that mean I don't have to turn the flask if I use those sticks on the bottom?
@@sancakli454 The sticks keep the crucible off of the bottom and allow air circulation as well as gases and wax out (not a pro, just what I've read). I use a piece of graphite to lift my flask off the bottom.
Centrifugal casting is very different because you melt the bronze once the flask is in the cradle rapidly losing heat.. I take my flask out at about 600c which works out well for 3" flasks..
Hey, I appreciate your information! I was winging it with my wax burnout cycle. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thanks Dan! Just getting started have the same basic setup you do except for a new Kiln :) You are a big Help! Subscribed
Thanks man. The kiln is probably the next thing to get upgraded lmao
If you have any questions leave a comment and we'll put it in the topic suggestions pile for a video.
2 questions: 1) I am using Siraya Tech Cast - Which have you found to be better - Plasticast or Optima? 2) How do you dispose of the quech water responsibly? I am not sure if there is anything toxic in it.
Can you tell me your electric bill😂😂
Thanks sooo much this video was VERY helpful
My burnout cycle is super fast.. I invest the 3" flasks, wait maybe 30 minutes, then into the kiln to dewax from cold at 149c, once it reaches that temp I wait another 30 minutes, remove my wax tray and ramp it up to 371c and wait maybe 30 minutes until the steam stops coming out of the spy hole of the kiln, then ramp it up again to 732c and leave it for an hour and a half, then cast.. The whole cycle from wax models to cast bronze is about 3 1/2 hours. I'm pushing my luck but I get near enough 100% success rate.. Its not always necessary to follow the guidlines exactly because your equipment varies..
Glad to hear you’re having some success with rapid burnout.
For beginners I would still recommend they follow along with the guidelines based on the size of flask and can experiment later if needed for resins etc. It’s not necessary but does offer the best consistency.
Thanks from Algeria bro
Welcome 👍
Such a fantastic and informative video, thank you so much. Quick question: I use bluecast x5 and plasticast bandust and occasionally i'll have some slight perosity left on the casting, (small dents / divits). Would you recommend holding the material removal temperature for longer to combat this or is there another suggestion you may have?
Thank you so much for these videos, you've helped me a ton in this learning process!
If you are under or at the two hour hold at 1350.F we would definitely recommend trying a slightly longer hold (up to 4 hours). It is hard to recommend a solution without going through your process and all the possible issues that could occur, this is why we created the membership program.
Great video! Thank you
Hey ! Thank you very much ! Good video (or vital-video for these important steps ?) Thanks
Thanks you so much from india
Hi! Very good job, keep it up 👍
Just one question about burnout timing: do you think a much slower ramp than recommended might be a problem?
I.e. going from 300 to 700 deg over 3 hours instead of 1 may cause some remarkable effect on the investment?
Just out of curiosity…
Thanks in advance!
Greetings from Rome 🇮🇹
Lengthening the burnout time is usually a good thing.
Haven't heard of many issues caused by it. More so issues caused by ramping to high in temp (over what's recommended).
Which investment is good for silver mens rings?
Thank you very much!
Fantastic tutorial! May I ask how you program the oven hearing with this old furnace? Did you attach a PDI temperature controller? Thanks!
I would like to know this also .
Is there a print out for step by step instruction on the casting process? I have a manual kiln by Rapid Pro and I’m struggling with how to set the temp and when to move to the next temp. I have the same vacuum as yours and I have a simple melter. Everything is brand new and I can’t find any youtube videos even from the company on their manual kiln.
We have this digital download that has a written version of the burnout in the video (along with investment mixing ratios etc) clearmindcasting.com/products/lost-wax-casting-cheat-sheet-poster
Hey,
Does this sounds valid burnout cycle for Plasticast investment - Resin - Siraya Cast - sterling silver - flask 9cmx10cm
Place flask into kiln at 150c, hold 3h (150c), raise 2h to 370c, hold 2h (370c), raise 2h to 730c, hold 2h (730c), lower 1h to 450c, hold for 2h (450c) -> CAST
Please help me.. I have seen Burnout Klin from TableTop(electric) that is perfect for 3D wachs. I cannot have it in Germany because ih has just 110v and i need 220V (Europe). Can you tell me what another Klin is also good but on the budget. Thank you!
Dan, is there any way you could make us a video on how to battle casting porosity and rough surfaces?
We can add this to the list. We will have to take some time to think of a format as porosity and other surface issues can have a lot of diffrent causes.
Any good place or recommendations as to where I can get those steel bars or something to elevate my flask for proper airflow?
Hi, I’m using the Wax Castable Resin from Power Resins. Do you know the correct temperature and time period I need to burn this wax properly, I keep getting porosity in my my cast!! 😭. Much Thanks.
We cast all of the resins we review using the guideline in this video, including Power Resin Wax. Surface texture has multiple causes. If you are using a burnout schedule like the one we described it could be something else in your process causing the issue.
Wonderful tut, I can’t wait to try. Been trying to cast from resin for three years. Question: isn’t 400c too low to cast sterling ?
The 1000.F-800.F (flask temp) below the casting temperature of your metal is a guideline. We run closer to 800.F below for silver alloys.
@@ClearMindJewellery tried 842 f which is 450 c and castings wasn’t great as for example in 600c which is 1112 f. In this temp every thing came out smooth and sharp (wax not resin, resin comes out bad)
Very informative thanks! Curious, is it possible you think, to print 3D resin molds and inject them with wax? Then do lost wax casting..
Yes. We’ve been working to find a good flexible resin for this and have also recently been looking at heat rated resins that work for making large spru’s suitable for sculpture.
Jewellery Mold with B9 Resilient Resin
ua-cam.com/video/dQuKXyaTDNs/v-deo.html
Good morning, I would like to ask you about pouring siraya tech purple resin. the pouring temperature when taken out of the oven and melted. For silver and gold, what temperature should the cylinder be to remove it and melt it.
Great video, one question. Since plastic doesn't melt out but turns to a gas , do you put your flask in the kiln with the button side up?
Still have it pointing down to help and residue evacuate.
Hello thank you for making these videos. I was wondering how do you avoid the thermal shock?
Avoiding thermal shock?? If you follow a standard burnout you should not see any thermal shock, as you are slowly steadily increasing and or lowering your temperatures..
So individuals see thermal shock when the ramp down to quickly after a regular burnout, or if they are experimenting with a rapid burnout and don't have long enough transitional phases.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you for your reply. From it I believe I found what I’m doing wrong. I’ve been going from 1350 to 850/950 straight away thinking that the time it takes from the kiln to cold is slow enough for te flask.
I mean for doing lost wax burn out I’m struggling finding out which ones the right one
hello from Greece!!! Congrats for your work bro! Your tips help me a LOT!! Can i ask something? If my flask with investment after the vacuum sits longer than 6hours, and i have to do the casting the other day, what should i do? Thank you man
As we’ve been looking into rapid burnouts we’ve actually been experimenting with investing times. We’ve left flasks overnight, to cast the next morning, and it works just fine. We’ve also cast the with just 2hrs of setup time.
But you should test it out before changing your whole workflow.
I love your your video, thank you for share it.
I have question please
What is good investment for casting a small figurine? Thanks
Hey 👋 thanks. I would put size (unless your doing full size sculptures) lower on the list then say your model material or your metal. So it will depend on this factors as well. For example if we print DND minis to later cast we would use Plasticast just at a slightly thicker mixing ratio. You can find our more here ➡️ What is the best lost wax casting investment? How to pick an investment for Wax or 3D Print casting
ua-cam.com/video/Oe2wxE-fXmU/v-deo.html
Newbie.. very first attempt at replicating a Bas Relief plaque in .999 silver
(3.25" X 5.25" with average .5" thickness).
The Flask is 5.5" in diameter and 7.5" Tall. Investment is Prestige Oro.
Three questions please:
(1) Position in Flask.. does it matter if wax model is laying horizontally on its back (very small amount of Investment required), or vertically on its short end (quite a bit more investment required)?
(2) Using latter choice, approximately how long should that last burnout phase be?
(3) Is there a minimum required thickness of Investment called for around the wax model?
Thank you for your help.. Dan
(1) a sand caster would tell you to put the lettering facing down. We've done plaques vertically in the past. Its really going to depend on how you spru it. (instagram.com/p/CNm9RFFnoMz/?img_index=1)
(2) again depends on material if resin stick to a solid 2-3 hrs at peak.
(3) we like to keep a 1/4" to avoid blow outs. Try to avoid leading edges at this thickness. (we have bees with antennas for example) As if it cracks thats always were it will blowout.
- Shannon
Where do you buy the bell to filtrate the air?? What bell i need to buy, is the same of bell kitchen or is different? What kind of filter needs the bell you use
Hello. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It's much appreciated!
That said, I have question...
I have a creality halot sky printer w/ Formware 3d slicer and Im "trying" to use siraya tech cast resin for making parts. I am having failure after failure. What I mean is the prints starting out but then what appears like its breaking off. But in the vat theres just a lump resin. Not at all what you'd expect to see with respect of what remains on the build plate.
I've tried exposure ranges from 2.8 - 8seconds, lift height and speed etc. I've tried recalibrating the printer/slicer, but nothing seens to help. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Hello, thanks for the excellent video. I have resin rings on a wax tree. Is it possible to steam out resin? Was trying to minimize venting smoke to neighbors, so thought steaming. Should I go with straight burnout for resin models. Thank you.
Unfortunately resins cannot be steam de-waxed. Burnout is the only method of removal.
Hey great vid very informative, I have been thinking about starting casting and I have a question, how about if I use 10 of that smaller flask 14:28 and get 20 pieces in 8 hours instead of using 4x6 flask for 13 hours? Would that work :)) I assume that Owen is around is around 12x9x9 inside and can carry 10 of that smaller flask, is that correct? :)
Are you using that same burnout cycle for Bluecast X One? I just got some and on the bottle they have a sticker saying for the burnout: 302F/3 hours, 1300F/3 hours, and a ramp time of 47F/minute. I was surprised they left out the 700F step and had what seemed to me to be a fast ramp time.
As X One is the most wax like resin we have used (out of 20+ something options) it doesn't surprise me. I would suspect that they have done testing of their own and found this to work. It just depends on your process (and if they are expecting you to use their investment).
We still use a longer burnout with X One as we usually have a mixed flask with other resins and waxes.
Great information here..thank you! I'm putting my studio together and the part I'm most stuck on is finding a burnout kiln that doesn't cost a fortune (under $600). Do you have any advise on where I can look? Thanks in advance!
Most of the brands we recommend are unfortunately creating units almost double your budget. However finding used is not impossible. Our first kiln was free, we just go another this weekend for $200 from a facebook group.
Don’t budget on the important stuff is my advice
@@ClearMindJewellerycan you please tell the Names of the Klins that are on the budget and what we need to know to find good one?
I’m not getting clean burn outs for my cast in place. The stones change color (working with CZ right now för starting), some of them turn orange! I’ve been using red injection wax and I’m wondering if this could be the problem? Should I try to do a de waxing before the burnout? Could that maybe help?
I enjoyed this. Learnt a few things. Thanks and New Subscriber her.. From me.. AceBullion.
When you say you need to leave it longer to burn out lost wax if the flask is smaller would it be the same if you used a very dance amount of wax for your mould or a lot of very small things or is just because heating the investment takes longer I was going to apply this to a dental settings also if you know anywhere else I can get that sort information
Do I really need an Kiln oven? Can’t I just use the electrical melting furnace to „burn out“ the clay first? The Kiln Oven is really expensive.
Most melting furnaces will not work in a way that is suitable to properly setup investment and evacuate the wax or resin.
You will also need to have your flask coming down at the same time your metal is heating up.
🙏🙏🙏✨
Hello! I was wondering what to do with the invested flask if you have to leave it for more than 6 hours. You started to say that you can wrap it but I was just curious. Was thinking I could get flask ready at end of day, leave it overnight, then start butnout process first thing next morning. Thank you for all your amazing work on this channel!!
The longest you can leave it is 6 hours. You have to do a burnout after that.
Hi TB, I don't know about resin or PLA models, but we routinely let invested wax (jewelry) models sit for days before burnout with no issues. The key is to wrap it in plastic so it won't dry any before burnout. If I know it is going to be a few days, I'll dip the flask into a bucket of water briefly before putting in plastic. We also steam out flasks for 1 hour to evacuate the bulk of the wax before putting it in the cold kiln. This helps reduce those nasty burnout fumes, as Dan says, good exhaust ventilation is essential. I doubt this step would help with a resin or PLA model.
@@SquishyMit thank you!
Wait wait wait though… is there a video on the whole process you sped thru at 2:20?!
We did an investment video the week before this one. And we have a step by step guide for our members via the membership portal
My metal melted through the crucible into my furnace so I wasn’t able to cast today, I took the flask out of the kiln and let it cool, I hope to cast it tomorrow. Would it be okay to just put the flask in the kiln and set to casting temp?
I wouldn't put it in at casting temp as you don't want to shock the investment and cause cracking. Ramp up to the casting temp.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you!
Can I ask a question please. If I use steam to remove the wax, does this change the firing schedule for the burn out? Now that the wax is gone, it seems that would change the schedule.
Originally we would have said no but with our rapid burnout experiments we're more inclined to say a shorter burnout is possible. You still need to get it up to temp to cure the investment, get rid of moisture, get rid of wax residue, and get to casting temperature with your flask. But can probably be shorter.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you for that. I'll try each ramp a little slower. I have a small flask so I'll reduce the ramp up and hold for each segment to maybe half and see how that goes.
Hi great channel thank you for your hard work, I am having an issue where my wax model is very ruff and doesn’t have a smooth surface is there anything I can do to get a clean surface?
Something we always recommend in our lost wax casting classes is lighter fluid. Take a small amount on a rag and you can clear away some of the filing marks. I think we show this in the live stream "demo" for our online course. Probably somewhere toward the end.
ua-cam.com/video/7L3BkpnXtMg/v-deo.html
What if I have no access to a burnout oven for resin burnout? Are there labs or pottery kilns I can rent and use?
You would have to connect with a local makers space or other artist network. If the person whom owns the kiln is doing something other then jewellery they may be unlikely to want to share.
I picked up 7 4x5" sections of stainless pipe at my local metal supply store for $90. I don't have a welder to add a ring so I was going to try the straight pipe with wax straws around the border or maybe add a bolt at the top at 12/3/6/9 oclock and then a silicon gasket. I've never casted before. I could just buy the flasks but I'm inclined to build stuff. Any advice? :)
I have built my own flasks before out of mild steel and welding on the flange ring. the biggest issue was keeping the ring flat. Any gaps between the flange and the rim of your vacuum chamber will cause issues with your cast.
You can just use the pipe without a flange. But you will only get vacuum drawn from the bottom. Using the straws is a way of improving the vacuum draw across more surface area with a vacuum table.
How hot does the investment flask need to be for pouring pewter in casting?
Hello brother how many burnout temperature for casting thin ring 24k gold?
Thank you for your video on burn out process of resind models.I am interested to talk with you related to industrial scale burnout furnces for 3D printed models using PMMA materia; which is kind of indutrial wax type polymrtic material .Can you suggest me the best wat to interact with you on this topic I am also intereste to kwon best burnout furnace manufacturer For Sizes such as 10 moulds (Flasks with flange to burn out in one cycle of say 12 hours or 8 hours Anwar
If you are looking for coaching or consulting for larger manufacturing we have options on our website to purchase a coaching slot. clearmindcasting.com/collections/coaching-and-digital-downloads
How do you know if your buying the right kiln for what you want to use it for
As long as the kiln is large enough, can get up to and above 1350.F, and can be reliably programmed and left to run for 12hrs or more you should be fine. The kiln that we might get next is technically a heat treating kiln (for blacksmithing) but it meets all the above parameters.
@@ClearMindJewellery I was about to buy one so I recently asked Evenheat about their heat-treating kilns and they told me they are designed to cycle off and not stay on for extended times like for burnouts...
thanks a lot :)
nice. Thank you. I heard the flasks actually should be at least 1" above the bottom of the kiln .
An air gap in general is required for a good clean burn. Our kiln is lucky to give is 1/4" with the 6" tall flasks and we haven't had any issues with that set up for years, but the more room the better. When our kiln dies I'm considering the Paragon Dragon, which would allow us to give as much room as we wanted.
Thanks!
Thank you!
I want to know what you guys do with regards for ventilation etc... i want to do lwc however i have nowhere suitable outdoor and to rent a workshop it costs too much.
What would you suggest for someone who is a hobbyist like myself that has all the equipment but nowhere to do it
We have the quatro ductless ventilation hood. However the filters easily become overwhelmed with the printed resin which makes the "ductless" part useless and we ended up venting it outside anyway. ua-cam.com/video/M-2txdK8I_o/v-deo.html
You need ventilation if you are going to be doing this as you don't want to be breathing this stuff in.
If you can grab a fan off amazon that can do 300 cfm and some flexable ducting from a local hardware store you can put something together. ua-cam.com/video/9xoe8WjbOMY/v-deo.html
HI. Thanks for the ramp info. by the way I need to know what happens if you let the investment more than 6 hours. Your speed talking at 2:12 Thanks
It was speed up as we did another video on investment the week before this one. If you leave your investment for more then 6 hrs it will dry and you may experience cracking.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks!🥰
Hello, some recommendation on how to use red ifun resin Hello, any recommendation on how to use red ifun resin? Please 🙏🏼🙏🏼
We have yet to try any resin from iFun. We have tried 17 different resins using the same burnout as talked about in this video so I would start there. I would also recommend looking at their support docs www.ifun3d.com/download.html
Please help. I’m having problems with the burnout process. I have a new kiln. It doesn’t have a hold. I do everything manually. I’m confused by the cool down time and the hold time. I do 300 for a hr. 700 for a hr. 1250 for a hr. Then pour. Is that not correct? Using sterling silver. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Hey, I think we chatted via facebook. Hope our advice helped.
hello how is it going, love your channel by the way. i was wondering how come your rubber gaskets never warp when you put the hot flask on the vaccume machine? i always have problems with the warping which ends up causing a bad seal on my vaccume
I'm afraid I don't have a solid answer. We're using the stock gasket that came with the machine without any special treatment or care, ours just doesn't warp. It is starting to break down heavily and will need replacing soon, at which point we have a much thicker gasket and a graphite cover to try, that may be something to look into.
@@ClearMindJewellery then u are so lucky i have created a work around by making a cut out from thick cardboard then wetting it and placing on top of the gasket. seems to work 90% of thr time hehe. where would i be able to buy new thicker gaskets?
@@gmajor398 We bought ours from European Designs and Gesswein Canada. Where you get them will depend on your location.
@G Major Hi fella we had the same issue when we started casting as we're in the Uk and supplies are limited. I recommend getting a good gasket from an american supplier (red ones seem best) and lowering your flask casting temperature slightly.
Hello, i keep having some problems with porosity in my sterling silver castings. I use sirayatech cast purple and plasticast. I use the burnout from plasticast pdf and no luck. The mixing ratio i use is 40:100. I mainly make blings. Like pave nameplates and championship rings. I can't figure out the proper schedule for the investment. Can you help me please with some ideas? (i tried a lot of burnout schedules but neither seem to work)
So if its porosity (and not another form of texture) usually the part of your burnout that will cause issues is the final temperature of the flask at time of cast. This can also be a 2-in-1 issue if your metal temp is also off, the two off temperatures just compound and make the porosity worse.
What's your SS temp and your final flask temp?
@@ClearMindJewellery I tried the flask temp 590 and 630 Celsius. The SS temp is 970 Celsius.
So the flask is about 90.C higher then I would go and the metal about 20.C higher. Metal is not a huge issue but I would cool the flask down a little more.
There are other reasons for porosity related to metal quality and spru formation that might be more of an issue as your within range in terms of temp.
Is the porosity more bubbly or more organic looking? If more round and bubbly lower that flask temp the 90.C (at least) and take a look at your metal quality). If more organic looking, look at your spruing (especially if you are new to casting.)
Hope that helps.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you very much for your help. I will try tomorrow morning when the burnout is finished and i'll let you know how it goes. Also the porosity is more bubbly looking. Also i just realised that the porosity starts at the first pieces on the three and the last ones. In the middle the cast is perfect.
Hello, so i just recasted and the problem is the same. I observed that the defects appear just where the resin pieces come. The wax tree casts almost perfect (just very little holes here and there that could be sanded off easy). Could the problems be because of overcuring the resin? I did clen it with isopropilic alcohol and cure it in glycerine 30 min on one part and another 30 on the other so it cures everywhere.
Is it possible to mix basic resin and wax? 20% wax 80% resin? to improve burnout. will they even mix. has anyone tried it?
Most resin manufacturers use a "wax like" compound up to 20-40% already. Brands such as Bluecast are pushing this.
Its only the more "plastic based polymer" castable resins where you have to be thinking about the longer burnouts at this point.
So if you're just doing lost resin would it be a better idea to burnout the flask with the sprue side up?
No as although most resins claim to be without ash they arn't, and there is still some melting involved specifically with the more "wax like" resins.
Hello!
Is a heigh of 10cm or 3.9 inches to small for a burnout oven?
If you are doing centrifuge you can get away with it but definitely small for most vacuum flasks.
In the burn out process, being that long, do you recommend leaving the kiln unattended or how do you deal with it?, im just curious to know if the whole process is safe?
Many thanks from the Uk
We do an overnight burnout as that is what best fits our schedule. There is risk involved with any heating process but as long as your equipment is properly maintained and regularly checked the risk is manageable.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you! Really helpful
Sir, please help me
I use phosphate bonded investment,
Do i still need water removal and thermal trantition phase in my burnout cycle ? Because my mould always cracking ( when i was using wax , i directly raise the temperature from 0 to 1000 farenheit and hold for 1 hour and then cast, everything is fine ) but now i changed to digital castable resin eoth siraya tech cast purple
What was the time for the raise from 0-1000? If you are trying to do a rapid burnout with resin it will likely fail. Resin behaves differently than wax during burnout.
@@ClearMindJewellery i actually raise from 0 to 860⁰C as fast as possible, maybe it is thermal shock.
I will try hold at 300⁰F first for water removal and try to raise to high temp 1350⁰F for pattern removal, as you said we can rapid burnout if using phosphate bonded ? Because im in dental industry
Sir, i have tried 3 phase burnout
1. 150⁰C for 1 hour
2. 370⁰C for 1 hour
3. 730⁰C for 1 hour but my phosphate bonded mould ring still cracked on high temp.
do you leave the peephole open on your kiln when your burning out?
No but there are other pathways for airflow. In our new kiln we have actually setup an air trickling system for some types of burnouts.
@@ClearMindJewellery 🙏
Can i have some help. What kind of burout kiln or furnace do i need for rhe beggining..
Paragon is probably the best choice currently, they cater to a variety of fields but depending on your location that’ll depend. The SC-2 or SC-3 are both great choices.
@@ClearMindJewellery like share subscribe thank u so much thank you for respond to the message
I was using the fov investment it worked great. I switch to the sc20 investment now i cant get my mold out of the investment it keeps breaking off. What is wrong?
FOV is suitable for high temp metals which may mean it has strengthening agents. SC20 is a more generic investment for wax and regular temp metals.
So if you are using resins or high temp metals it won’t be suitable.
Am casting silver mens rings. How can I speak with you personally am new to casting and i would like to show you some of my work. Maybe even join ur class.
@@agustinenathan3495 we do not have classes but online coaching. If you want to receive one on one assistance, there are options on our website. If you are more into a community based dynamic learning alongside other individuals, we have a UA-cam membership program that grants access to our Discord.
I came here because I did every wrong thing you mentioned. :)
6.00
You had mentioned to wrap your molds after you put in your investment in if you are not going to use them within 6 hours. Why and with what. When I played this video you started to say something but then it glitches and moved on to a different topic
It's not a glitch it's a speed up edit, this video was meant to go over the burnout process not the entire casting process. We did a diffrent video about investment: ua-cam.com/video/Oe2wxE-fXmU/v-deo.html (and have more detail in our purchasable content clearmindcasting.com/collections/classes/products/online-lesson-investment-mixing)
We wrap our flasks immediately after the mixing is done if we know it won't be going into the kiln for another 6 hours, with a damp rag. As if you are working with clay. As you don't want cracking. The flask needs to have some moisture, going into the kiln, or it becomes more difficult to get a successful cast.
How do you dispose of the water after quenching?
After letting the investment settle I use a hand drill water pump.. thing and drain off the water I can from the top which is relatively clear. Then empty the basin into a bucket and let whatever water is left in the investment evaporate for a few days, then transfers into plastic bag and into the garbage.
What's that @discord name?
UA-cam Membership is required for discord access
Please help me. Can I have your message please?
Clearly you don’t cast for a business. IMO
I don't see why you would be saying that, all of this info is solid
hey man, i would love you discord information, ive been having some issues with my recent castings and would like to perfect them, talking about it would for sure help me out. I can show you the stuff i make, im a self-taught jeweler and have been messing with all sorts of stuff for about 3 years now. i bought my first resin printer about a year ago so i could start going crazy in cad and make insane pieces. but since there is so much more detail than when i was wax casting im having issues with porosity. i also upgraded to almost the same set up you have. please reach out and let me know if i can get ahold of you via discord or something. thanks for the videos man, im gonna keep watching.
*love your discord information*
not that i dont love you
Our Discord is a members only benefit (more info here ua-cam.com/channels/r7WVfyXuUogXyEEn1dmWDA.htmljoin)
Those that started with Wax sometimes find it harder to transition into 3D prints as they expect the process to be the same, but resin has some different quirks.
If your porosity is quite serious to the point of being more an asphalt texture I would definitely recommend looking to see if we've reviewed the resin you are using to get better insight into post processing etc.
Instagram is always an option for one or two quick questions (linked in bio).
When people do a burnout without steaming their wax out does the wax just goto the bottom of the kiln and burn off? or do they put a plate of sorts to catch the wax?
Either are ok. Some kilns have enough space for a small shelf with a tray underneath it that you can remove at a certain point in the burnout process so that the wax isn't burned.
Personally we do not have such a /shelf tray because we don't have enough room for it and our normal flask size in the kiln at the same time, and I run an overnight burnout so I wouldn't be there to remove it any way. The wax/resin burnout doesn't outwardly appear to have much effect on the kiln insulation. If I had the option I would certainly dewax/remove a drip tray rather than have it burn simply to save on ventilation filters and whatever benefit could be had for the kiln.