Learn To Bondo Like a Pro on a Rolls-Royce Ghost Let Me Show you How its Done
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- Опубліковано 17 чер 2024
- In this video I'm going to finish all of the body filler a.k.a. Bondo work on this Rolls-Royce ghost. Rear quarter panel and the front door will get blocked to perfection to be as straight as as an arrow. I will walk you through a step-by-step process to show you what it takes to do this sort of a job like a Pro, I will share 20 years worth of experience in this trade, so that anyone with some practice can achieve as good of results as me as long as they follow through these steps. High end vehicle such as Rolls-Royce especially if it is black in color would require nothing less but a perfect body work to make the finish product look like" it never happened"
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Thank you for all the tips ! Your more informative then all other people’s videos good job btw ...
My pleasure! I personally prefer to watch informative videos to where it's more than just mindless entertainment, I like to learn stuff. Figured if I started making videos might as well pass on what I've learned over the years.
Just started watching tonight love the work you do
Thank you for watching ! Welcome aboard!
I like this new type of video series you make
thank you very much and I hope you do more of this type
For sure, I try to make them to be as informative as possible. I think the next video will be even more interesting than this one. That one is due to get published Thursday morning. Stay tuned my friend !
Looks good. One challenge I see people have as they get into body filler is knowing when to stop sanding. To make it more difficult each grit has a slightly different stop point. I encourage people to make sure the previous grit sand marks are removed before moving to the next grit. I know epoxy primers have come a long way, but some of the inexpensive primers will still shrink back over time and expecting primer to correct an 80 grit mark is asking for trouble.
I believe the only way to know when to stop sending used to do it a bunch and obviously make mistakes in the process, but that is a sure way to gain that experience. I've learned that the hard way in the past :-) what primers did you have good luck with? I'm always open for suggestions when it comes to using a new technique or materials
Waited patiently! Certainly did not disappoint, great work. Coming along beautifully!!!
Thanks a bunch! Body filler is the most boring/tedious part of the repair, I certainly like this part the least :-) but once the paint goes down and reveals the fruits of your labor, I like that quite a bit more than endless sanding. Next video should drop Thursday morning, it should be more satisfying to watch in my opinion anyways !!!
Another excellent video. You have amazing skills.
Thank you so much, Gary !! 😀
Beautiful bro‼️‼️ you give us hope
Thanks man!!
I love this channel!
Thanks man !!
Amazing job as always
Thanks again!
Definitely amazing job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video. Thank you.
You bet!
Excellent!
Many thanks!
Great work amigo
Alex, my friend. Thank you!!
Great video thank you
Very welcome!
Great work
Thank you! Cheers!
Amazing. Subscribed.
Welcome aboard!
wow ！ Just saw you mixed the bondo on door glass 👍
Door glass works great for mixing bondo !!! I just use a razor blade to clean the glass before I'm ready to mix another batch.
Great job
Thanks Tony !!
Good Video!! Thanks!!
Glad you liked it!
Gostei muito ... Ótimo trabalho 😊🙂
Gracias amigo !!!
Super job.
Thanks general !!
Very nice 🔥
Thanks 🔥
I only subscribe because his work is amazing waoo such a great job
Thanks man, I do appreciate the comment. I'll have the next video out this coming Sunday, stay tuned
@@fix206 sure will my friend thanks so much
Nice work on the repairs so far. The end result will be reflected in the preparation and getting the body filler perfect is the first step in obtaining a perfect finish. One thing that you demonstrated very well, but didn't comment on, is to try to get the coats of filler as close to the profile of the panel as possible, so that you aren't putting on too much filler or building it up too high. This saves a massive amount of sanding work. The way you went over the filler, shaping it nicely to the panel, was a good demonstration of this. Your videos are excellent tutorials for anyone wanting to do their own repairs. As always, stay safe and all the best from Queensland Australia (where it's still cold, even though it's now spring).
As usual, thank you so much for your comment Bruce. I'm sure there's a lot that I didn't touch on or didn't explain very well as I was working, it's hard to cram couple of decades of knowledge into a 10 minute video. I will do my best to push out two videos per week, and I'm sure as time goes on, more and more of the info will trickle into my videos. Hopefully you guys will start warming up here soon, September usually stays nice and warm here in Seattle area, however this year there are a lot of wildfires burning and now majority of the west coast is covered in thick smoke, so the temperature dropped and air quality is terrible. I keep the windows in my house shut, because as soon as I open them all I can smell is the smoke. But I'm sure you know all about that with all of those crazy fires you guys had just last year.
@@fix206 Credit where credit is due. You are very skilled in many areas. September here in Qld is starting to get a bit milder, but it doesn't really start warming up until October. With all those fires here in Queensland last year, we were well clear of them and hardly any smoke in this area, just a day or two. We keep seeing on our news the fires over there, particularly California, where they showed row after row of houses burnt to the ground. Devastating. Where we lived in NSW was near an industrial area with a steelworks and we used to get very bad pollution. It was so bad that we had to move, so we moved to Queensland for a better climate. Unfortunately, with climate change, it's colder now than when we first moved here, with ongoing droughts that we never had previously. We can only make the best of what we have. Looking forward to more videos, All the best.
I would add when j was taught to use Bondo the process goes slap on a coat and before it gets hard hit it will 80 grit or one of those files for Bondo, do it again filling in the low spots and on the third pass you can start sanding and shaping but the first two coats are done pretty quick. Also BONDO DOES NOT STICK TO PAINT, YOU HAVE TO SAND DOWN TO BARE METAL AND PREP THE METAL WITH SOLVENT BEFORE BONDO VERY IMPORTANT
Makes me want to do an autobody repair job!
You should totally do it, with some practice just about anyone can get pretty good at it... Plus I'll be posting more how to videos on this topic as time goes on, so I'll be able to share more of my knowledge with you guys
Very Nice !
Thank you very much!
Good job brother.
Much appreciated, Ruffian !!!
Wear a mask bro, you can reduce your life dramatically by breathing in those fumes. Love this!!!
Oh for sure !! I normally always wear a mask unless I do something small and quick where I can hold my breath or I have a fan going nearby that pulls away all the dust and fumes therefore none of it reaches me !!!
Perfect!!!
Спасибо!
Great work on this. Too much patience needed for me though. You can still see the pinholes in the bondo I put on my GMC 12 years ago. Maybe I will fix that some day...
If it was my personal car, it probably would've taken me 6 months to knock out all of the Bondo :-) but Sergei kept bugging me to get it done sooner rather than later, so I guess I did knock it out somewhat quick 😎
And the most important part of any job is good help
you sure are right about that !!!
good video sir
So nice of you !!
Thank you
You're welcome!!
8:40 Highly recommend a dry guide coat. You can even use it on the filler sanding stages, or re-apply it any time a person want's to verify contact points. No masking, no waiting.
Never used dry guide coat, only time I ever use the guide coat is right after I lay down some fresh primer just like I did in the vid... That always worked out for me
I rewatched when I was able to pay more attention. I'm just curious. Once it was taken off and actual bondo work began, how long did it take to bondo the door and have it ready for primer? I am hitting the like button!
I actually worked on the door over the course of a couple of different days, couple hours here, few hours there. Someone had told me a while back that a good way to judge how long any given panel will take to fix is to lay your palm with fingers touching over the area and that would basically represent one hour of work, now move your palm around the panel and count the hours :) I'm pretty sure that rule would not apply in every situation. But if you were to average it out I do see some truth in that. Normally flat panels are quicker to knock out then the areas with a lot of curves and body lines
Fix206
Thank you. I will remember that hour rule.
For you inexperienced guys who try this yourself when using the orbital keep the speed as low as possible and change sanding discs or paper frequently
good tips !!
Love the videos brother!...I’m commenting on this video because I actually ended up getting the same primer you have judging by the green can and I mixed mine 4:1:1 and I sprays somewhat fine but I feel like I’m sanding forever to get it flat ..am I spraying to much material and not enough pressure?..I’m about 20psi and fluid almost wide open ..I see you spray at 15psi and your spray is far nicer than mine...thanks a lot !!!
It sounds like you're doing everything right as far as spraying the primer. What grit sandpaper are you using for blocking it out? Sounds like you are possibly using too fine of a grit? I normally do most of my blocking with 400 grit... Also try not to do more than two coats of primer
@@fix206 I’m using 320 for initial block then I go over it with 600..but the primer itself is very choppy and pitted
Sounds like you may have had some primer application issues. If the primer was too thick you can always thin it out a bit with some urethane reducer.
Can you put filler over dtm high build?So many debates over this. Just got off the phone with Tamco they said no filler on bare metal creates heat then condensation on metal and to put over there DTM high build 5310. I do not need epoxy if car is inside all the time it will save you a lot of money just block and top coat your done and still have epoxy properties in the DTM.
Great work...did you modified that hf primer gun?
I haven't modified it yet, it's still sprays out of 1.3 size tip, but it actually works out all right because I usually spray the primer at low pressureI... However I will be modifying the tip out to 1.8 or larger opening for the next project.
Total hack, doesn’t even have a proper primer gun lmfao, poor rolls.
U can use a harbor freight gun for primer make sure the tip is 1.4 at LEAST preferably 1.8 up to 2.2 and if the primer is hard to spray only use thinner IF you CAN NOT get a bigger tip for your gun and then thin as little as possible
Harbor freight $15 gun is exactly what I'm using for my primer because that is mostly all that its good for. I normally add a splash of thinner before spring, and also I normally spray at pretty low pressureI to keep the overspray down... Might do a video later on on how to convert the existing gun to 1.8 or 2.0 tip size
Good job. Just wondering why u didnt use short strand fiberglass filler for first coat. I suppose its not necessary.
There are some instances where you can use the kitty hair. This just wasn't one of them
Do you clean the doof from other side? And protected welding with primer?
Yes I did...
How to make spot welding equipment make video plz
I do have a detailed step-by-step video on how to make the spotter. Here is that link ua-cam.com/video/j6UgtCN5vzU/v-deo.html
What's your cutting and buffing process on black vehicles? I seem to get swirl marks. I've been using the 3m 3 step method
I did a pretty detailed video on that topic... Here is the link ua-cam.com/video/7x9l2XlFr9w/v-deo.html
@@fix206 Thanks. I'll check it out
Is that a Harbor Freight purple gun your using?
Yes, as I see it, the only thing that purple gun is good for is primer...
Good video. Try using duct tape when sanding for a radius around he wheel well.
I've always had good luck with the regular masking tape, never seen the duct tape being used. What are the advantages of using duct tape?
Fix206
It’s more durable wont tear as easy as regular tape, it’s thicker for taller filler builds when sanding, more flexible. Keep up the videos true craftsmen are a dying breed.
I'll for sure give it a shot next time with a duck tape !!
nice where are you located mate? I need to fix my corollas quarter panel
Sorry man, but I normally just work on my own stuff. Very rarely I make exceptions for some close friends... But that's about it :(
@@fix206 very good job
Thank you Carlos !!
Great video.
Is that a bit of a New York accent on this man? I'm European so I'm not so good on the nuances of the american language.
I like how he speak.
Im sporting that Russian accent :)))
@@fix206
Wow! That is a cool accent. A bit old time gangster sounding. 😆
Lol... I suppose it has a bit of a gangster ring to it :)
Need advice, if a quarter panel is slightly damaged… If repaired with Bondo well it last? I would replace the quarter panel but that’s a lot of money.
Just about anything can be repaired, especially if the quarter panel damage is light then for sure go ahead and repair it instead of replacing it. Bondo lasts just fine. You just don't want too thick of layer of it on the panel because it may crack overtime if the layer is too thick. Try and do your metal work as best as you can and then put the thinest coat of Bondo on that you can get away with.
@@fix206 When you say crack, usually how many years will it start to crack? By crack you mean the paint comes off?
If you put too thick of a bondo layer on it may crack after a week of driving if you hit a pothole hard enough where the body of the vehicle my flex to the point where bondo would crack. Also that would depend on the climate that you live in, thick layer may act differently in the hot climate or cold and damp
@@fix206 Wow never knew that, why would anyone prefer adding thick layer of bondo instead of replacing it? Makes no sense going cheaper route and then having it replaced because it will crack
There are a lot of bad actors out there, people that don't want to replace the panel and also don't want to do the metal work. The way I see it, metal work has to be done good so that the level of body filler does not exceed 1/8 of an inch
I wanna give it a try I have some body damage on my car. What’s the best way to paint a car without a spray gun?
Without a spraygun the only thing I can think of is to just roll the paint on with a paint roller LOL :-) but to be honest if you're really on a budget you can pick up a $15 gun from Harbor Freight and just use that... It is by far not the best but is for sure is cheap and usable... I did a review of that gun and also another slightly better gun in this video right here ua-cam.com/video/l4IdHSsQ1kw/v-deo.html
If you go to KC Auto, they sometimes make the color code you need in a can. Then use 2k glamour clear coat they come in a can aswell. Not the same results if you were to use spray gun. But good results.
What type or brand of filler do you use ??
The stuff that I'm using is Rage Gold, it's pretty expensive but much easier to sand then a lot of other cheaper fillers
@@fix206 thats what I'm using !
hi
what you use at 0:20 for pull the panel with the studs?
I explained the process in detail in this video right here ua-cam.com/video/lHvB4zd0oAU/v-deo.html
@@fix206 actually i see the video twice but didt hear with what uou pull the chain that hold the rod with the tabs
I use a com-along that grabs onto a "Claw" that grabs on the the rod
will it pass the magnet test?
I always try to knock the metal work out as best as I can to keep the filler level as thin as possible. I'm pretty sure the magnet will have no problem sticking :-)
is all of body filler same?
There are different body fillers, some are cheaper somewhere more expensive. Usually the cheaper ones tend to be harder to sand. The stuff that I'm using is basically same as Rage Gold. It's a bit more expensive but saves time when sanding it down
What about metal finish?
What about it?
Can I bring my car to you? I'm in Oregon
Sorry man, I normally just work on my own projects that I barely have time for as it is. This Rolls-Royce was my best friend's car, and he thought that I would be the best man for the job so I went ahead and did it to him as a friend favor.
Boby lines can be copied by measureing the other side or traceing it with paper,sanding the body filler with really fine paper I dont like, paint will not stick to slick filler, primer will fill 150grit scratches, primer needs to bite into the surface.let the primer dry b4 you put on the guide coat.
When in doubt I do use the undamaged side as a template. Since I use primer as my guide coat it was just another coat of primer over primer, so I don't really see any issues coming out of that
@@fix206only time will tell,high end cars like this usually repaired by replacing panels, using filler could devalue the car,but if its your car you can do whatever you want.were I used to work some cars got a bondo job,and others no body filler at all
This is my buddie's car, so it was his personal preference to save as much as possible. I did tell him that the best course of action would be to replace the damaged panels, but he encouraged me to get them fixed instead... It's what customer wanted
what is bieng a da
Dual Action Sander
Вы в Вашингтон штате? Можно машину пригнать?
Yes I am in Washington state, but I generally don't work on other people's cars. This was my best friends car that I did, I figured it would be cool to do a Rolls-Royce rebuild video done in a driveway...
@@fix206 oh ok. Spasibo. Do you know any one you van recomend,
How bad is the damage?
What the fuck 😂
Huh?
You should have master your pdr skill on this car..your spoter creates to many highs an lows...you need a slapper tapper tool..You would have cleaner panel with less filler and you would have learned useful pdr techniques i this job...even if you used some filler
PDR skills are useful if you are not planning on painting the panel. This quarter panel was too far gone and there was no way to do a clean PDR fix on it. Time is money and the way I went about this repair was going to be the quickest and most effective way to get everything ready for body filler. As it is I kept the thickness of the body filler to a minimum.
@@fix206 many pdr tech offer push to paint for this type of pdr...where the paint is cracked and metal is wrinkled.. many high end body shop will sub out push to paint on expenisve vechicals to minimize the bondo...required...where the vechical paint it badly damaged... however no filler is used.. pdr is the only way to go
Your pdr tech would have push to paint.. and save you all that bondo the vechical would be repaint with min bondo a fraction of what you used
Bro really forgot that higher the number of sandpaper the smoother the finish 😭😭 might as well wipe your ass with that 40grit bruv 🤣😂😂😂 I wipe mine with 3000 😬✌🏽
I wipe mine with toilet paper :)
Ruined by putting that anywhere on that car
Not really, I did exactly what the owner of the car wanted... He was satisfied with the result, I got paid for the job. Everyone is happy
😂😂😂😂 looks like you waisted 20 years learning how 'not' to do it 🤦🏻♂️
how so? would you like to elaborate ??? I'll be anxiously waiting for your reply!!! Would sure love to learn from the real pro 👍