I know the links are "backwards" and I know that every expert will scream and yell about that fact. However, you're going to have to wait until the suspension is done to see how I pulled this off without all the bad stuff you typically see with reverse four links.
Forget the haters dude! Looks awesome! I'm getting close to putting a 4 link on my truck too. 2001 ranger 4.0 v6, I'm building the engine soon too for some boost in the form of a Teriyaki Tornado 👌😎
As a Navy Veteran, nuclear navy (submariner), it is really nice to see you and another veteran working together. Besides that I love the way you explain things as you go along. Can't wait to see this project run down the highway.
I got so excited to see this in my feed. Really like this style of video, makes me feel like I'm there. I don't know how you can go without wearing hearing protection though, I feel like I needed earplugs just watching it. You only get one set of ear drums....tinnitus sucks.
I love how much the quality of your videos has increased They've always been so informative but now the layout screams tv show haha keeping me in my fabrication apprenticeship thats for sure haha
I'm curious to see how you solve the problems associated with a reverse 4 link. Maybe I don't have the imagination, but I don't see how you can counteract it's problematic physical properties. Personally I don't think I will ever build one.
Love your channel. You thought this out very well. I don't see anything "wrong" with attaching the links behind the axle. Looks like a true parallel linkage. A watts linkage would be my preferred way to address side to side control. Can't wait to see this in finished form. Thanks for the show.
I know you probably expect a question about the build but I've seen it several times and I really want to know what those stainless steel tanks are back there looks like something you put cold hydrogen in or something like that but I can't hardly pay attention to the freaking show because I keep wanting to know what the heck said that things are for
Hola amigo, soy Mario de argentina. Dos un capo en lo que haces soy herrero de profesión y carpintero lo que haces es una locura no entiendo nada el inglés pero solo con mirar tu vídeos aprendo mucho, dos un maestro de los maestros. Te mando un abrazo y espero que sigas asi
I had seen your truck on a mighty max page and wasnt even aware i was subed to you channel...i myself have a 87 i want to jam a gen 3 hemi in unfortunately i havent made much progress needless to saw seeing you work on your give me motivation to work on mine now that i got my nccer.looking foward to seeing more your project
The film/video quality is great. I couldn’t hear anything over the grinding though. Definitely keen to follow the series. I did miss the old fabrication series
Next time your trying to do bushings, just use the bench vise instead of hammering them in. Worked like a charm for me. Use a bit of flat steel on each jaw of the vise about the width of the bushing and you're all set.
Great.... l'm following your progress... Keep it up... However, my design/build is using the XJ Cherokee front axle arrangement on the rear.. Cherokee axle.. instead of leaf springs... And it won't be a 4x4...just rear wheel drive... But will be using part of the front axle steering swivel points. With twin leading arms...
Hello Justin, A suggestion. The opening shot shows the link support on the chassis rail with two gussets to brace them. I feel it would be better and strionger if you raised the top one and lowered the bottom one such that they are level with the top and botton face of the box. That way you have the strength of the top and bottom sections of the box, which is far greater than the face alone. As supension loads will try and move the link support to and fro, the gussets will bend the face of that box ever so slightly and could in time cause stress fractures?
According to your concept Justin, the receiving/differential angle should be 92.6 degrees because you faced the same wall or the camera when measuring. So now the angle is 5 degrees off. In other words: use the same side of the angle finder.
Completely agree, unless he did take that into account with his angle tool I couldn’t see. He has done quite a bit of fabs. I do hope that on episode 3 we don’t see the angle grinders out to fix it. :)
On the bright side (as one of my nephews might say since he served for a while in the USofA Navy) is that you were not in the chair force as I was. Yes, I served, but I still thank you for serving as well. Way to go you effin squid... lol. Happy for you that you survived and are doing what you are doing now instead 👍
i like the link mounts on the frame, looks good! typically you set your pinion angle at RIDE height, not at full compression when it's laying on the ground. also, i'm not a fan of your link separation at the axle. again, typically you would make the upper mounts further from axle center than the lower link mounts to leverage against rotation during braking/acceleration. the length of the upper axle mount will determine your anti-lift under accel as well. perhaps we didn't see all that in the video.
@@4stomper yes, you're right if all 4 arms stay the same length, but they're adjustable....so i guess we'll see. point was for ppl who've never done a link suspension, to set angle at ride height and the other factors i mentioned. who cares what the angle is at full dump on the ground?
@@vintagespeed Agreed. I get the feeling there is some real lack of experience here. . .I am also curious to see if the watts link gets built correctly or if he does it backwards. Also not liking those 90 degree frame joints with no gussets for the axle kickup, 45 degree angles are much stronger (with diamond gussets in the corners) and they look a ton better.
@@Rileymanification reversed watts link is definitely the way to go... though just a panhard will do the job. i like the fact he's putting all this good fab work out there for ppl to learn from tho!
Im glad to see put some stuff to adress the side sway movement. What about the linkage to hold counter the wheel torque? It will make the vehicle up and down during hard acceleration/deceleration
@@rafatrill a little I guess. Car manufacturers use expensive applications & special programs to set pinion angle. From my personal experience I learned that most car manufacturers set the whole entire drive train ( front engine, rear wheel drive or 4wd ) at 6 degrees rake total at standard ride height unloaded meaning dry no gas & no passengers. So from the middle of the engine mount going back to the rear pinion gear is lower 6 degrees. I hope I explained that correctly. You can test my theory by measuring your own vehicle's drive train. I know when I did my suspension work or engine swaps I used the 6 degrees method & it worked great. Some builds I went off of the front & back of the transfer case.
@@rafatrill car manufacturers use 6 degrees from out put shaft of transmission angled down to pinion gear. So pinion gear is aimed up 6 degrees matching out put shaft of transmission. I wish I could draw you a simple diagram. My current rock crawler is a 81 Toyota Hi Lux with a standard 2.4 L 22R carburetor I4 gas engine, 5speed manual, 2 transfer cases & 2 hi pinion differentials with leaf spring suspension front & rear = 30 forward gears ( 5 2wd, 5 4wd low, 5 4wd hi, 5 4wd low hi, 5 4wd hi hi, 5 4wd low low ) I am currently building a very low sitting 4wd on straight axles. 3 link front, 4 link rear, supercharged GM 5.3L V8, 2 transmissions ( SM465 4speed granny low manual & 2speed powerglide automatic ) 2speed transfer case ( 24 gears ) all on air shocks front & rear. Some car manufacturers set the engine at 6 degrees at the motor mounts ( helps with drive train angles & carburetor float bowl level ). something not necessary for fuel injection.
If you have time, why not triangulate the 4 link? That could have eliminated the need for Watts or Panhard centering device. Beautiful job building and installing the links. Thanks for sharing
@@CJ-ty8sv I agree with your comment about lateral motion of the axle relative to the chassis, however, I am not following your thinking on the binding in a triangulated 4 link. This is the link geometry of choice in the off road world where tire articulation is measured in feet. Those suspensions don't bind if designed properly. You need to limit them with straps and bump stops because they can easily flex more than the shocks allow.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony Sorry about that, disregard the part about binding.. It's been a long rough day and my mind was in several different places at the same time when I was commenting and managed to mix them together on accident. The binding part came from the thought about the binding and bending forces that occurs in 4 link setups in general when really stiff bushings (like Poly) is used at all attachment points which has nothing to do with the triangulated part obviously or in this case either since Justin used Heim's at the rear end attachment points...
Hi, im working in my 65' f100 and im finishing the engine swap, i have to make a new cardan, should i do the cardan or the four links first? And then modify my current cardan to fit with the new setup. Thanks!!! Your videos encorauge me to try to do crazy things!!! Grettings from argentina!!!!
Hope you have a way to fix your pinion angle, to prevent tilting away from the trans, and the axle moving forward over a bump . If you do, tell Detroit, so they can fix 4wd front ends with rear mounts. Can't wait.
just as well you dont want it to flex much. That watts link is a stinker for limiting flex. Just ask any D2 owner lol. Great video. Cheers for sharing.
Looking forward to this reverse parallel four link with Watts link. I guess if you keep the links flat to angled up slightly towards the axle at ride height it should be OK. You don't want the links angled down from the frame to the axle at ride height because the axle will need to move forward to compress. I would think that would make the ride harsh as more force would be transmitted through the links instead of getting soaked up in the shocks and springs.
Correct, a Watts link needs the links parallel at ride height to do it's job. Also curious to see if the watts link is built correctly with the link pivot on the frame, or if he is gonna do it backwards like most people do.
Dang. I was worried when I saw the parallel 4 link but then saw you decided to use a watts link instead of a pan hard. Good choice. With as much travel air/hydro provides, a pan hard bar is terrible option. I don't know if you are planning a rear mount gas tank but I probably would have just did a triangulated reverse 4 link if not.
For those arc shots, why aren't you just shooting through an auto darkening helmet filter? Worked great for me when it did it (sorry not published). White balance through the undarkened filter, then let it darken on a test weld to get exposure with the arc. Might need a little extra lighting for the non-arc part of the shot.
Another great video. I know you don't need someone to tell you where to spend your money, but a wireless lav mic would improve the sound immensely. :-)
Good afternoon, I know you probably get asked this question a lot. I need a new mig welder. I rebuild cars and some restoration. What do you suggest. Thanks.
Im the poor one, frugal one in my group of friends. I buy my friends tools / parts pennies on the dollar in great condition. My friends make the mistake of not buying big enough, strong enough or simply out grow tools ( hand, air, hydraulic, power ) I.E. 130amp welder, 145amp, 175amp ect. ect. Worse comes to worse they end up buying a 212amp or 260amp & they weld it for me..win win. It's nice to have good rich friends...hahahaha & I end up with a 175amp welder which is usually enough for me.
I've never been able to understand multi-link suspension on a solid axle, think the radius of the suspension would pull it towards it since its a circle and not a perfect up and down motion
You are right. The suspension will move in an arc. When the links are flat the axle will be the farthest forward. An inch of travel up or down will pull the axle rearward a slight amount. You design so the links are long to minimize this.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I know the links are "backwards" and I know that every expert will scream and yell about that fact. However, you're going to have to wait until the suspension is done to see how I pulled this off without all the bad stuff you typically see with reverse four links.
That's a pretty awesome video! Question, were can I find terminals like the ones your using on your Link's? That's!
What was your rationale for going for a reverse four link as opposed to the traditional arrangement? Or will that be explained in later videos?
@@raheslop You'll see. Its all in this series. We're (at this moment) 14 episodes in.
Forget the haters dude! Looks awesome! I'm getting close to putting a 4 link on my truck too. 2001 ranger 4.0 v6, I'm building the engine soon too for some boost in the form of a Teriyaki Tornado 👌😎
The Fabrication Series looking forward to it
I was today years old to learn you served. Even MORE respect comes you way!
As a Navy Veteran, nuclear navy (submariner), it is really nice to see you and another veteran working together. Besides that I love the way you explain things as you go along. Can't wait to see this project run down the highway.
As a retired Chief I had to give you a thumbs up. It's really cool that you work with someone you met while on active duty.
Dang Hollywood. Some serious production chops in this one. Well done.
I got so excited to see this in my feed. Really like this style of video, makes me feel like I'm there. I don't know how you can go without wearing hearing protection though, I feel like I needed earplugs just watching it. You only get one set of ear drums....tinnitus sucks.
5:56 “were pretty low budget here”… $10,000 welder behind him
Just starting welding and you have been and still is the best help i ever gotten 🙌 thank you
I love how much the quality of your videos has increased
They've always been so informative but now the layout screams tv show haha keeping me in my fabrication apprenticeship thats for sure haha
Great to see tfs in my feed again. Love the new format too. Can't wait for more.
I'm curious to see how you solve the problems associated with a reverse 4 link. Maybe I don't have the imagination, but I don't see how you can counteract it's problematic physical properties. Personally I don't think I will ever build one.
Love your channel. You thought this out very well. I don't see anything "wrong" with attaching the links behind the axle. Looks like a true parallel linkage. A watts linkage would be my preferred way to address side to side control. Can't wait to see this in finished form. Thanks for the show.
Oh yeah!
That's what all of us waiting for!
Great video and, as always, thanks for the priceless hints from professional!
Thank you for your service!
Wow I feel like i want to keep watching, really cool project and fabrication video. Lots of high quality knowledge shared in here.
Thank you for your service. Great video.
I know you probably expect a question about the build but I've seen it several times and I really want to know what those stainless steel tanks are back there looks like something you put cold hydrogen in or something like that but I can't hardly pay attention to the freaking show because I keep wanting to know what the heck said that things are for
Hola amigo, soy Mario de argentina. Dos un capo en lo que haces soy herrero de profesión y carpintero lo que haces es una locura no entiendo nada el inglés pero solo con mirar tu vídeos aprendo mucho, dos un maestro de los maestros. Te mando un abrazo y espero que sigas asi
Just an observation, why are the "Uprights" of the C-Notch at 90° and not at 45°?
Enjoying the new perspective that using a film crews brings. Nice!
I had seen your truck on a mighty max page and wasnt even aware i was subed to you channel...i myself have a 87 i want to jam a gen 3 hemi in unfortunately i havent made much progress needless to saw seeing you work on your give me motivation to work on mine now that i got my nccer.looking foward to seeing more your project
The film/video quality is great. I couldn’t hear anything over the grinding though. Definitely keen to follow the series. I did miss the old fabrication series
Audio took a few episodes to get just right. Its only better as we go.
Awesome. I’m really liking the semi reality show vibe it has. You’re doing a great job. Eventually I’ll be filming the same stuff.
Next time your trying to do bushings, just use the bench vise instead of hammering them in. Worked like a charm for me. Use a bit of flat steel on each jaw of the vise about the width of the bushing and you're all set.
Great.... l'm following your progress...
Keep it up...
However, my design/build is using the XJ Cherokee front axle arrangement on the rear.. Cherokee axle.. instead of leaf springs...
And it won't be a 4x4...just rear wheel drive...
But will be using part of the front axle steering swivel points.
With twin leading arms...
Glad to see the videos coming back👍🏻👍🏻
Yuu're filming of welding is so clear, thanks!
Hello Justin,
A suggestion.
The opening shot shows the link support on the chassis rail with two gussets to brace them. I feel it would be better and strionger if you raised the top one and lowered the bottom one such that they are level with the top and botton face of the box. That way you have the strength of the top and bottom sections of the box, which is far greater than the face alone. As supension loads will try and move the link support to and fro, the gussets will bend the face of that box ever so slightly and could in time cause stress fractures?
According to your concept Justin, the receiving/differential angle should be 92.6 degrees because you faced the same wall or the camera when measuring. So now the angle is 5 degrees off. In other words: use the same side of the angle finder.
Completely agree, unless he did take that into account with his angle tool I couldn’t see. He has done quite a bit of fabs. I do hope that on episode 3 we don’t see the angle grinders out to fix it. :)
The angle finder does not read past 90 in any direction, so supplementary angles do not need to be calculated.
Great choice on getting the film crew in!!!
On the bright side (as one of my nephews might say since he served for a while in the USofA Navy) is that you were not in the chair force as I was. Yes, I served, but I still thank you for serving as well. Way to go you effin squid... lol. Happy for you that you survived and are doing what you are doing now instead 👍
Bro. First time I'm watching immediately after upload. Very excited for what you have in store for content.
Nice build fellow squid.
i like the link mounts on the frame, looks good! typically you set your pinion angle at RIDE height, not at full compression when it's laying on the ground. also, i'm not a fan of your link separation at the axle. again, typically you would make the upper mounts further from axle center than the lower link mounts to leverage against rotation during braking/acceleration. the length of the upper axle mount will determine your anti-lift under accel as well. perhaps we didn't see all that in the video.
It's a parallel 4-link, the pinion angle will remain constant through its travel. If the chassis had rake at ride height you would be correct.
@@4stomper yes, you're right if all 4 arms stay the same length, but they're adjustable....so i guess we'll see. point was for ppl who've never done a link suspension, to set angle at ride height and the other factors i mentioned. who cares what the angle is at full dump on the ground?
@@vintagespeed Agreed. I get the feeling there is some real lack of experience here. . .I am also curious to see if the watts link gets built correctly or if he does it backwards. Also not liking those 90 degree frame joints with no gussets for the axle kickup, 45 degree angles are much stronger (with diamond gussets in the corners) and they look a ton better.
@@Rileymanification reversed watts link is definitely the way to go... though just a panhard will do the job. i like the fact he's putting all this good fab work out there for ppl to learn from tho!
Thinking of doing a three link on my truck. Pulled out the corporate 14, chopped the frame & have a 9" with disk to go in. 373 posi.
Im glad to see put some stuff to adress the side sway movement. What about the linkage to hold counter the wheel torque? It will make the vehicle up and down during hard acceleration/deceleration
looking forward to the next part of the build!
I'm at this exact stage in building my 57 f100- thanks for the video, I think I was over thinking everything.
Any updates on the neat mini truck?
Keep this content up... Thank you
It's about time
I like this video. It's shot like a behind the scenes look.
Great photo on your welding like
I was wondering why you put the links behind the axle, then I read your comment about them being "backwards", is that what you meant?
what is the wall thickness of the hollow rectangular and square sections you used for the chassis?
great vid brother 👍🇺🇲🙏😁
Question does it have to be at ride height when ur welding it up and setting it up? Or as long as u have the pinion angle right?
Both !!!
@@408SPLKINGS won't it get affected by the weight of the bed and body?
@@rafatrill a little I guess. Car manufacturers use expensive applications & special programs to set pinion angle. From my personal experience I learned that most car manufacturers set the whole entire drive train ( front engine, rear wheel drive or 4wd ) at 6 degrees rake total at standard ride height unloaded meaning dry no gas & no passengers. So from the middle of the engine mount going back to the rear pinion gear is lower 6 degrees. I hope I explained that correctly.
You can test my theory by measuring your own vehicle's drive train. I know when I did my suspension work or engine swaps I used the 6 degrees method & it worked great. Some builds I went off of the front & back of the transfer case.
@@408SPLKINGS by 6 degrees u mean 3 degree at the transmission tail shaft & driveshaft and 3 degree at the pinion & driveshaft (2wd)
@@rafatrill car manufacturers
use 6 degrees from out put shaft of transmission angled down to pinion gear. So pinion gear is aimed up 6 degrees matching out put shaft of transmission. I wish I could draw you a simple diagram. My current rock crawler is a 81 Toyota Hi Lux with a standard 2.4 L 22R carburetor I4 gas engine, 5speed manual, 2 transfer cases & 2 hi pinion differentials with leaf spring suspension front & rear =
30 forward gears ( 5 2wd, 5 4wd low,
5 4wd hi, 5 4wd low hi, 5 4wd hi hi, 5 4wd low low )
I am currently building a very low sitting 4wd on straight axles.
3 link front, 4 link rear, supercharged GM 5.3L V8, 2 transmissions ( SM465 4speed granny low manual & 2speed powerglide automatic )
2speed transfer case ( 24 gears ) all on air shocks front & rear.
Some car manufacturers set the engine at 6 degrees at the motor mounts ( helps with drive train angles & carburetor float bowl level ). something not necessary for fuel injection.
"We are pretty low budget around here" And your welder is made by monks in a monastery on top of a mountain in Europe (the opposite of low budget)
It's only like 3 grand bro. Yolo.
If you have time, why not triangulate the 4 link?
That could have eliminated the need for Watts or Panhard centering device.
Beautiful job building and installing the links.
Thanks for sharing
@@CJ-ty8sv I agree with your comment about lateral motion of the axle relative to the chassis, however, I am not following your thinking on the binding in a triangulated 4 link. This is the link geometry of choice in the off road world where tire articulation is measured in feet. Those suspensions don't bind if designed properly. You need to limit them with straps and bump stops because they can easily flex more than the shocks allow.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony Sorry about that, disregard the part about binding.. It's been a long rough day and my mind was in several different places at the same time when I was commenting and managed to mix them together on accident. The binding part came from the thought about the binding and bending forces that occurs in 4 link setups in general when really stiff bushings (like Poly) is used at all attachment points which has nothing to do with the triangulated part obviously or in this case either since Justin used Heim's at the rear end attachment points...
Triangulated 4 links eat up space, a watts link tends to be more efficient
What did u do in the navy ?
Never thought of reversing four 🤔👍🏻
that "small angle finder" where do you get one from, & how do they work?
Hi, im working in my 65' f100 and im finishing the engine swap, i have to make a new cardan, should i do the cardan or the four links first? And then modify my current cardan to fit with the new setup. Thanks!!! Your videos encorauge me to try to do crazy things!!! Grettings from argentina!!!!
FUN.The word for the day!!!
Was that a Miller 220 acdc??? Why no review?
Hope you have a way to fix your pinion angle, to prevent tilting away from the trans, and the axle moving forward over a bump . If you do, tell Detroit, so they can fix 4wd front ends with rear mounts. Can't wait.
Leaf springs are to blame. Loose leaf springs & switch to radius arms, 3 links or 4 links if possible.
@@408SPLKINGS Properly installed , I agree with you. Thanks for the reply
I want to see more of this. Like what's up with the reverse 4 links?
is this gonna continue soon?
How do you figure out the geometry and dimensions of the links? Is there a general formula?
When you don't give all details it makes me imagine above my level what thing this will be
just as well you dont want it to flex much. That watts link is a stinker for limiting flex. Just ask any D2 owner lol.
Great video. Cheers for sharing.
I knew that solid axle and tranmission looked familiar ur using mitsubishi parts right?
Any good books or Info on learning how to design and build a chassis?
Chassis engineering by Herb Adams is a great one.
@@jerrellkull5347 great thanks
Your welcome. That book has a few million dollars worth of information in it.
Why not drill through and do a rosette on both sides, especially if worried about the tube splitting?
Faelwolf I saw a lot of why nots...
@10:25 "were pretty low budget here" said the man with the 5k usd welder
Is this part of the mighty max build or a separate build?
Looking forward to this reverse parallel four link with Watts link. I guess if you keep the links flat to angled up slightly towards the axle at ride height it should be OK. You don't want the links angled down from the frame to the axle at ride height because the axle will need to move forward to compress. I would think that would make the ride harsh as more force would be transmitted through the links instead of getting soaked up in the shocks and springs.
Correct, a Watts link needs the links parallel at ride height to do it's job.
Also curious to see if the watts link is built correctly with the link pivot on the frame, or if he is gonna do it backwards like most people do.
@@Rileymanification I did not know that about the Watts link, but I was referring to the parallel 4 links.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony I gotcha. Yeah, weight transfer under acceleration is gonna be really dicey with those trailing links.
what car is the solid axle off of?
Can I ask why you didn’t use hum joints on both ends of the link arms?
Extra expense & not needed at both ends for so little travel compared to rock crawling / 4x4
Dang. I was worried when I saw the parallel 4 link but then saw you decided to use a watts link instead of a pan hard. Good choice.
With as much travel air/hydro provides, a pan hard bar is terrible option.
I don't know if you are planning a rear mount gas tank but I probably would have just did a triangulated reverse 4 link if not.
whats the benefit of mig welding the brackets on the axle instead of tig welding them?
I think he was just tack welding them. Maybe he'll end up TIG welding later.
What brand of welder at 7:19..
Fronius, and unless you have really deep pockets you need to look elsewhere.
Oooooo Man i just waiting for the watts link aaaand and bang!! punch 👊 jajajaja i will waiting, nice episode
Isn’t the pinion angle supposed to be set at ride height?
Yes most definitely, every builder I know does it that way.
I see you got the versanotcher that's next tool on the list for me
No update?? What’s happening with the build?
Is this your Mighty Max, or the other truck you had going on?
For those arc shots, why aren't you just shooting through an auto darkening helmet filter? Worked great for me when it did it (sorry not published). White balance through the undarkened filter, then let it darken on a test weld to get exposure with the arc. Might need a little extra lighting for the non-arc part of the shot.
Another great video. I know you don't need someone to tell you where to spend your money, but a wireless lav mic would improve the sound immensely. :-)
I know what you need for the shop. ANOTHER welder...😂! Btw, will you sell me one?
Good afternoon, I know you probably get asked this question a lot. I need a new mig welder. I rebuild cars and some restoration. What do you suggest. Thanks.
Steve Janka + Miller 212
Im the poor one, frugal one in my group of friends. I buy my friends tools / parts pennies on the dollar in
great condition. My friends make the mistake of not buying big enough, strong enough or simply out grow tools ( hand, air, hydraulic, power )
I.E. 130amp welder, 145amp, 175amp ect. ect. Worse comes to worse they end up buying a 212amp or 260amp & they weld it for me..win win. It's nice to have good rich friends...hahahaha & I end up with a 175amp welder which is usually enough for me.
You not putting a universal joint on it then?
I bet you sleep well as hyper as you are....LOL..Just teasing you. Love the vids. Keep it up. Take care.
I used to install bushes like you did with hammer, then I realised that using a vise was much easier.
14:55 he just recently helped man-candy with his angles. And man-candy rushed the job; mixed up the angles. LOL
I've never been able to understand multi-link suspension on a solid axle, think the radius of the suspension would pull it towards it since its a circle and not a perfect up and down motion
Ckc dillpickle yes, but it’s 2 circles per link and different center points. So 4 circles per link, all with different centers for rotation.
You are right. The suspension will move in an arc. When the links are flat the axle will be the farthest forward. An inch of travel up or down will pull the axle rearward a slight amount. You design so the links are long to minimize this.
is this the new shop??
Perfect timing
I remember those sliding mats lol.
Frocius welders are the best
I'd like to see someone pick one of my 3/16 wall frames up like that lol
You forgot to account for axle wrap when setting your pinion angle.
Should have used a triangulated four link suspension.
Is it a Chota?
Now I got to wait!! Dammit, LOL.
this's gonna be guud !!
I mean I like the uniqueness of doing it rearward but your instant center is behind you so its not going to drive right
U R my master 💪
OMG YES YES YES YES YES
Some Lav mics might go a long way to reducing the ambient noise and improving the audio.
Did this build ever get finished and you just stopped making videos on it ???