Hey Sam. I’ve just come across your channel. Love what your doing with your tonner. I wish I had the skills to do what your doing. I had the panel work and paint done by a mates Dad. It came up good but I wish I had done more. Mine is only a six but I’m still proud to drive it. It’s great to see these Holden’s being saved and looked after. I’m looking forward to see more progress. 👍🏼
Good job on the new set up. You may already know this but don't forget to clean the inside of the axle tubes where you welded its going to be scaled. Links look good but search rear steer with a 4 link for more info. I race a 350 HQ and it makes a big difference to over steer. The pan hard may need some extra thought when you have time it crucial it be close to parallel to the ground. It also determines the roll centre height. If you already know all this my apologies.
Thanks heaps Mate. To be honest I dont know any of that what you mentioned. Its my first time installing/setup of a 4 link but appreciate letting me know. I will look into them for sure. With the Axle tubes is that scale likely to flake off and contaminate the oil? Would you be best to pull the axles out to clean this out?
Definitely take the axles out.I'd be stripping the whole unit to check all the parts you payed for, thats just me.I've found swaff in wilwood master cylinder before so I check everything. I used a 3inch ball hone to clean out my axle tubes but I did alot more welding than you have. Some emery tape on a 13 mm tube in the battery drill will do and use a rag with thinners to clean up. I didn't see if y housing had a drain plug (ford never did) now is the time to put one in.use an 18mm o2 sensor nipple and any jap plug will fit.My race diff lives on 3 lt of oil if you over fill the housing you can have a world of trouble with the axle seals. Be careful when setting up your brake master. The old proportioning valve is for disk front drum rear so you may not need it. Hopper stoppers have good information on their site to explain what you need.
Great job mate it looks awesome. Im currently building a tonner and going the same route with 4 link, just wondering what spring rate you went with on rear coilover's?
Thanks for the cool video! I would box in your 4-link mounts as you're putting in a lot of faith in those flimsy vertical mounts. Also, not so sure if I would mount my pan-hard bar at an angle as that may flex your rear end bracketry the wrong way depending on how hard you are planning on pounding on it. Why not just add a bracket onto the pumpkin or over it and weld it straight up? You may have to shorten it but it would prevent from twisting your entire rear. Just my opinion...
I have a trailing arm erm system on my 69 Chevy C10 and do you think this application would be better I do a lot of of street racing I think this might help me with performance
Thanks you for your efforts and the Vid mate, I am looking into setting up my rear end for my HJ UTE after I fit a larger Engine output , i wish to retain my leaf springs and go with the Caltrak set up as 4link chassis clip would be the option if i needed wheel tubs? your vid helps me with knowing the 4link set up, Thanks Cheers
Hey Mate I have been told the caltraks work great. The only reason why I went 4 link was the adjustability of it. Pretty easy to adjust the ride height etc
Hi mate, great video I'm looking at doing the same thing to my tonner at the moment. How much was the 4 link kit worth through McDonalds brothers racing and the 9 inch diff set up. cheers
If you have any porners for me I really would appreciate it like I said I'm trying to put a 4 link on my seat in right now it just has trailing arms I think this would work out perfect any ideas which would be better way to go
Hey mate great work with the build I’m looking into doing the same to mine and am just wondering what you have to do to get it engineered. Do you need a mod plate or an engineer certificate?
Hey Mate. If you go down to some of my first videos there is a video called how much to build a shed. All the details are in that and there is a cost breakdown.
BEST 4-LINK VIDEO ON THE UA-cam VERY WELL EXPLAINED THANK YOU SIR
Undoubtedly, definitely, attention to minute details make the job easy , and very accurate. Thanks. Always
Hey Sam. I’ve just come across your channel. Love what your doing with your tonner. I wish I had the skills to do what your doing. I had the panel work and paint done by a mates Dad. It came up good but I wish I had done more. Mine is only a six but I’m still proud to drive it. It’s great to see these Holden’s being saved and looked after. I’m looking forward to see more progress. 👍🏼
Thanks Mate for watching the channel. Well if you proud of it thats all that matters. Agree they are becoming more and more harder to find good ones.
Thanks for showing all the detail you did on the 4 link install.
No dramas at all. Hope it helped
Great Work man
Good job mate. Nothing like having a go and getting it done. 👍
Thanks Mate. Was not too bad just time in measuring everything up and getting it right
Good job on the new set up. You may already know this but don't forget to clean the inside of the axle tubes where you welded its going to be scaled. Links look good but search rear steer with a 4 link for more info. I race a 350 HQ and it makes a big difference to over steer. The pan hard may need some extra thought when you have time it crucial it be close to parallel to the ground. It also determines the roll centre height. If you already know all this my apologies.
Thanks heaps Mate. To be honest I dont know any of that what you mentioned. Its my first time installing/setup of a 4 link but appreciate letting me know. I will look into them for sure. With the Axle tubes is that scale likely to flake off and contaminate the oil? Would you be best to pull the axles out to clean this out?
Definitely take the axles out.I'd be stripping the whole unit to check all the parts you payed for, thats just me.I've found swaff in wilwood master cylinder before so I check everything. I used a 3inch ball hone to clean out my axle tubes but I did alot more welding than you have. Some emery tape on a 13 mm tube in the battery drill will do and use a rag with thinners to clean up. I didn't see if y housing had a drain plug (ford never did) now is the time to put one in.use an 18mm o2 sensor nipple and any jap plug will fit.My race diff lives on 3 lt of oil if you over fill the housing you can have a world of trouble with the axle seals. Be careful when setting up your brake master. The old proportioning valve is for disk front drum rear so you may not need it. Hopper stoppers have good information on their site to explain what you need.
Thanks mate for all that good info. Will defs pull the axles out to check.
Hey mate you made this look super easy makes me feel alittle better about starting my drag build😂
Hey Mate was not too bad to do. I think it took about 2 days and biggest part is making sure all your measurements and alignments are spot on.
Great job Sam 👍🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
Looks really good!
Bloody magic mate. Made that look easy :)
Thanks Mate. Was not too bad to do just takes time
Love your work top job👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Just found your channel and it’s fricken sick. Earnt a sub
Thanks for the Sub Mate and enjoy :)
Great job mate it looks awesome. Im currently building a tonner and going the same route with 4 link, just wondering what spring rate you went with on rear coilover's?
Nice job mate would it have made it easier to tack the diff to the chassis with the spacers you recon. To same bumping.
Beautiful 😊
Looking good
Thanks Mate
nice job. Hey, question, the pinion angle does not change when the car is on the ground? thank you
this is coming along just shibby!
Cheers.... Making progress slowly
Cool 👌✌
Thanks for the cool video! I would box in your 4-link mounts as you're putting in a lot of faith in those flimsy vertical mounts. Also, not so sure if I would mount my pan-hard bar at an angle as that may flex your rear end bracketry the wrong way depending on how hard you are planning on pounding on it. Why not just add a bracket onto the pumpkin or over it and weld it straight up? You may have to shorten it but it would prevent from twisting your entire rear. Just my opinion...
Watts bars or ogee single bar around pumpkin level at ride height should be on perpendicular. 90° to 4 links...
Just found your channel new sub. The build looks good keep up the good work.
Awesome, thank you!
Just came across your video mate, nice job and well explained, am thinking of doing something similar on my chevys , oh and I Subbed !
Thanks Mate. Appreciate the feedback. Bloody sweet Ford you building. Subbed back at ya.
@@ShenkeGarage awesome 👏
Great work, skillful guy
Thank you! Cheers!
I have a trailing arm erm system on my 69 Chevy C10 and do you think this application would be better I do a lot of of street racing I think this might help me with performance
Thanks you for your efforts and the Vid mate, I am looking into setting up my rear end for my HJ UTE after I fit a larger Engine output , i wish to retain my leaf springs and go with the Caltrak set up as 4link chassis clip would be the option if i needed wheel tubs? your vid helps me with knowing the 4link set up, Thanks Cheers
Hey Mate I have been told the caltraks work great. The only reason why I went 4 link was the adjustability of it. Pretty easy to adjust the ride height etc
Looks awesome. New sub . 👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you for the video
You're welcome
Awesome job! what shock and springs did you use?
Hi mate, great video I'm looking at doing the same thing to my tonner at the moment. How much was the 4 link kit worth through McDonalds brothers racing and the 9 inch diff set up. cheers
Hey Mate the 4 link kit was approx 2k
Hey there mate, I really like what you are doing, and I was just wondering what you have to do to get the 4 link engineered for rego???
Thanks Mate. At this stage I have not really thought about the engineering yet. I think there are a few guys that can do it.
If you have any porners for me I really would appreciate it like I said I'm trying to put a 4 link on my seat in right now it just has trailing arms I think this would work out perfect any ideas which would be better way to go
Hey mate great work with the build I’m looking into doing the same to mine and am just wondering what you have to do to get it engineered. Do you need a mod plate or an engineer certificate?
Hey Mate. The 4 link will need engineering and then I believe it can be Mod plated after that.
Sam can you tell me how wide the diff is from disc to disc
Hey Mate the width is 1560 from flange to flange where the wheel mounts to.
@@ShenkeGarage thanks mate I got a old hx tonner too but don't know if I will go with the 4 link on it
G'day mate silly question but how big is your shed??😂 building my first house and your shed looks like the size I need for my ute build!!
Hey Mate. If you go down to some of my first videos there is a video called how much to build a shed. All the details are in that and there is a cost breakdown.
You Should redo this vid and have a counter on the screen counting how many times you said “tacked in” 😂😂🤦♂️
Dude. There's so much used material. Come on.
Not sure what you mean by this comment?