Aprilia Caponord ETV fuel pump service

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  • Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
  • The capo is having the fuel pump service new E10 submersible fuel hose and filter change .
    Remember the fuel pump flange seal requires loctite 518 not 418 like I said on the video and a torque of 7 nm on the bolts you wouldn't want to drill the heads off like me .
    I changed all my bolts they are M5 and not expensive £5.00 for fifty .

КОМЕНТАРІ • 18

  • @pardonwhat
    @pardonwhat 10 місяців тому +1

    Thanks again fella, it looks like I might aswell just copy everything your at :) so please keep going!
    I’ve the slate gray 2003 etv1000 & intend to hold on to it for good.
    just installed the clutch seal as we discussed last time , Its not working so will pull it off again tomorrow (bike stalls when i put it in first but didn’t get time to have a look at why!
    I also fitted some bones to drop the height which has worked out surprisingly well, the bike sits on the side stand more naturally and with my feet flat on the ground it doesn’t feel so tippy,, happy days! Low speed drills are back on the cards👍🏻
    i greased the bearings in the shock assembly whist I was at it..
    Installing heated grips and usb next , hopefully the rec/reg holds up!! ttfn n thanks again..
    D

    • @pardonwhat
      @pardonwhat 10 місяців тому +1

      Fyi I got the suspension links from Advalp pl they were €34 delivered which is about one third of the others that I saw.. They seem to be a stainless steel accessories outlet..

    • @captbarb6642
      @captbarb6642  9 місяців тому

      I'm glad you're still loving yours as I am .
      Reference the slave and the stalling was it stalling before you changed your seal ?
      If it wasn't I suspect more bleeding is needed we have to burp the hoses shake and rattle them I think pushing from the bottom to the reservoir isn't a bad idea but there is a top banjo just before the master cylinder that requires a slight undo to break an air lock sometimes .
      The other two reasons for stalling when placing in gear is one the free play on the lever there's a special adjustable pin which I wouldn't suggest touching in the first place it's hard to get it perfect .
      And second there's a diode pack which reads a circuit through the side stand switch maybe the clutch switch basically it prevents you from driving off with the side stand down normally it's the side stand switch has failed not the diode pack .
      I think one way to test the diode pack is to put in gear before starting and see what happens when a start is attempted,hope this helps and glad you got it lowered I believe there are three seat options aswell.

    • @pardonwhat
      @pardonwhat 9 місяців тому +1

      Absolute gold, thanks for the pointers…
      Funnily enough I fixed the stand switch which was bypassed (dash warning now working!) and believe it or not I swapped the old lever’s for machined billet/ flip up ones..
      So that leaves me with all three to check🤣🤣! just my luck!
      I can bypass the side stand easily enough and though I did bleed with a syringe from the slave end I will crack the top banjo to be certain ( it didn’t feel fully disengaged as it happens!)…
      On the switch positioning at the lever; I take it this switch tells the IDU that the clutch has fully disengaged at a specific point in the lever travel?
      I see the diode pack on the wiring diagram, can i ask what its purpose is? I’m assuming its not a rectifier, is it a kind of logic gate?

    • @captbarb6642
      @captbarb6642  9 місяців тому +1

      @@pardonwhat
      I bet you a fiver it's those aftermarket levers that's exactly what happened to me I ended up going back to OEM ones in the end.
      And your right about the diode pack being a logic gate good description.

    • @pardonwhat
      @pardonwhat 9 місяців тому

      Hold my pint!

  • @lucasfranzen3876
    @lucasfranzen3876 9 місяців тому +2

    Great video! Will help me with replacing the fuel level sensor beginning next year! Do you maybe know a good alternative for the Original Aprillia Fuel level sensor? Is it terribly expensive for such an easy part?

    • @captbarb6642
      @captbarb6642  9 місяців тому

      Thanks for your response can you not repair the level sensor maybe .

    • @lucasfranzen3876
      @lucasfranzen3876 9 місяців тому

      I dont know, will take it apart soon and see what I can do! On other forms people advise to replace the complete unit? .. ​@@captbarb6642

  • @dannymacarthur13
    @dannymacarthur13 Місяць тому +1

    Hi, Changed fuel pump lines and replaced quick release connectors. The bike now refuses to start. Engine just spins over and makes no attempt to run. Is it necessary to prime the fuel system after the hose replacement? Besides a spark plug change, I cannot think of anything I have done to cause this problem? Any advice would be appreciated. Regards.

    • @captbarb6642
      @captbarb6642  Місяць тому

      The only thing I can think of maybe you have a kink in your fuel line when reinstalling it we have all done that one.
      Or the quick releases are not allowing fuel to pass ?
      Does your fuel pump prime when key on if so disconnect the supply quick release to see if you have fuel there , then repeat on fuel return quick release if you have fitted one.

    • @captbarb6642
      @captbarb6642  Місяць тому

      Sorry no prime needed it will self prime in seconds when starting

  • @Maxi-ff6to
    @Maxi-ff6to 4 місяці тому +1

    Hi my friend. Replacing the coils didn‘t solve my problem. Now I‘m on the fuel lines. Could you give me a link with all lines and connectors I need?
    Thanks so much

    • @captbarb6642
      @captbarb6642  4 місяці тому

      What was your original problem I wouldn't want you wasting time and money

    • @Maxi-ff6to
      @Maxi-ff6to 4 місяці тому +1

      @@captbarb6642 so the thing is, I replaced the coils - unfortunately not the problem. I have rough idle, missfire etc.
      No EFI tough. So the next step, even if only preventive, I wanted to do the vacuum lines new. My question now is, what is exatly needed? Espescially the quick release from the fuel tank.

    • @captbarb6642
      @captbarb6642  4 місяці тому +1

      @@Maxi-ff6to my fist thing to check are all the plugs firing when they should do .
      This will test coils,leads and remember to check plugs aswell.remove one plug at a time leave connected earth on engine and looks for the spark .

    • @pardonwhat
      @pardonwhat 2 місяці тому +1

      Hi guys, Ive been experiencing the odd backfire on deceleration in 3rd and 2nd and had lump idle.. Setting the rear cylinder vacuum to slightly higher than the front has cured the idle and its reunning so much better ( not missing).. All four plugs are the right colour now and I believe the back fire has been mapped in bc it doesn’t donit in any other gear!! just my thoughts but open to being educated.. Cheers

    • @captbarb6642
      @captbarb6642  2 місяці тому

      @@pardonwhat when I changed my cans to the Leo Vince sbk cans I inherited a little one only if pushing extra hard and shutting off , I believe it was just sucking in air on the exhaust pulses on the exhaust joints , which I have now sealed up to get the AFR to read correct .
      You could go round all the pipes rubbers inlets etc with wd40 to see if the engine note changes.