Відео

I will be honest it didn't work so I removed it and replaced the seals and replenished with correct grade .

Those Scott two strokes are quality I would love one of those one day maybe .

Yes a quality machine ninety years ago.

Yes I agree Ive left alone i did try getting the old dealer stickers Jim aim but unfortunately they couldn't supply them .

The Pico's is brilliant because not many people go there and if you love riding in mountains it's out of this world . The KTM oil drain is a good idea .

@@captbarb6642 Not to mention we saw ONE mobile speed check the entire time. Some of those roads out there were smooth as a race track, and like you said, so little traffic. I think if we were still in the EU I might have just quit my job and stayed there 😅

Didn't see any speed traps , but when I wasn't watching the road we did see a family of wild boar in a line mum,dad,and the five kids and a red squirrel which was nice to see .I have done a little short video riding the capo there .

Thank you Marian it will be interesting having a wobble around on this one .

In the UK they range from £700 to £1700 . It cost me a £1000 to get mine in the condition it's in now if that helps . I think in Germany they command more money .

10 hp or 98-130 hp I think I agree with you but no electronics or valves to play with is quite refreshing. The Rotax v990 is a bullet proof engine but will it last ninety years time will tell.

Thanks

I was quoted two grand by BMW I hope it was for both. The air chisel is the key tool and the other tools I used there were not expensive tools the air chisel was £15 off eBay . I think someone is trying to rip you off .Also if one has gone do them both , that's what I did to my car and my son's . It will take an hour to get it off and an hour to put it back one side .

@ no he said said it’s just for one cv boot as it’s split and he said it’s £1500 which is manly labour.. 😳 After looking online I can get an axle for £150-£200 and get some tools and hopefully get it done for less than £300. 👍🏽

@muddybootadventures1440 if you don't have an air compressor mine was from Lidl £90 and the tools another £65 and then the shafts and you will always have the tools

@@captbarb6642 could you post the tools you need. Cheers 👍🏽

I can tell you what you need I'm away from home . 3ft half inch breaker bar 2x 3ft extensions half inch Air compressor Air chisel with a spike very cheap . Female star sockets half inch, sorry can't remember size but again cheap to unbolt flange on diff. Torque wrench to bolt up . That's about it .

Thanks for your kind words I've only touched what needed that's all .

Yes that's what I thought and it might pre long the dreaded dash failure .

I do hope you get one , it was the first bike I was pillion on in the 80s to go and look at my Yamaha DT50MX. it's just so refreshing to ride something that isn't new ,retro, fast,loud and all the other stuff. And the funny thing now is people just have no idea what it is, oh and the smelly smoke is out of this world .

Pay the £15 get the air tool trust me I changed mine on a 125i took ages pushing the shaft through without one . And the long extensions and breaker make the diff bolts a breeze and saves your back . Good luck .

I'm not sure but it's worth checking it's pretty similar engine design .

Definitely disaster time I would say. Watched vagtech on you tube build a rs4 engine twice no oil pressure due to a price of plastic or rubber over the strainer.

Yes of course I can my bike is twenty one years old and they are starting to fail leaving people stranded and sometimes people don't realise that the coil has failed that lets say doesn't due the lion share of the burn. I do alot of European trips on mine I even carry a spare just in case . I don't think I get any more power but it's nice to know I'm getting the right amount of power going to my plug for a strong spark ,maybe easier starting and crisper engine .

​@@captbarb6642 Thanks, it's important to know it. I'm a new owner of 2001 caponord, planning trips in Europe, so your videos worth gold for me :)

Thanks for your kind words. I recommend the fuel pump filter and pipework service so you don't get any problems in the future

@@captbarb6642 Pipework service you mean a hose inside a tank?

@viliuzk yes of course inside the tank were the fuel pump can be found . filters the fuel and has some suction and discharge pipes that over time break or become porous this will not give your injections the right pressure . Oh and its nice to know you get to the pump if needed again .

How's it all going up there I went to Morocco three weeks ago it definitely should be on the bike bucket list to do . Did your AFR from Allie work ?

Yes they were a strange bike compared to the Japanese bikes we had , I think that's the charm about them now ,and the reason why I got one .

Long extensions , big breaker bar and that cheap £15 air chisel makes the job easy .

Yes they cause that effect when failing intermittently. You replace the drive shaft or just have the rings and or sensors replaced . The ring are about £3 and a genuine Bosch sensor is £30 . It took us about an hour to remove the drive shaft and another hour to reinstall. The drive shaft will need cleaning to place the new ring on .the sensor is one bolt . I was quoted 2k from BMW for two new shafts . It cost me about £30 in parts and four hours of my time . If you do this job yourself you will need that air gun that I show .

Thank you for your response

Wow so much information, the front brake definitely needs fettling on mine . Thank you for your technical advice .

Have you tune ECU? If so you can see the tps and see if Injectors are being fed a voltage whilst running and see fault codes etc .

@@captbarb6642 I don't have tune ECU, I'm guessing that's where I should start? My concern is that I don't know what I'm doing, so I don't want to make things worse.

Online there is a manual for safe operation of tune ECU if I can use it you will be able to. If you say it starts ok then plays up does that mean it's temperature related . A good place to start without tune ECU would be to check the plugs are firing the coils do go bad with temperature and time , then looking for air leaks on all the intakes whilst running ,check and clean the air control valve in the air box.

@@captbarb6642 Thank you, I'll have some time tomorrow to look things over. The reason I think it was a problem with the ECU and not temperature or combustion issues, is because of all the different codes, the temperature gauge reads about 150⁰ when running and it doesn't sputter while it's running or when it dies. The engine just cuts off, similar to the sound when you normally turn your bike off. I will also have to get a cable to connect my bike to Tune ECU, so I'll have to get back to you on this. Thank you for your response and guidance!

There has been issues with the ECU connections worth a check ,maybe worth checking the actual power to grounds on like the ECU etc

It has been a long time since I've breathed in two stroke fumes ,it was a different experience, but I understand what you mean .

Thanks the gen2 is a nice bike .

I take it we are talking about France , any problems and how was the weather . How was the first class passenger on the rear of the bike .

Bike is running well, we’ve another 4 hours b4 the ferry arrives and then maybe 6hrs across to home.. Passenger reports “pilot a bit iffy at times but on the whole a comfortable and exciting adventure “

Thanks Karl already swapped it to dot 5.1. It was hot one day we had a riding ambient of 37 degrees celcuis, the bike performed well.

Have you tune ECU , is my first question I expect so Mine is a 2003 so no cats and I'm running the swordfish map on mine previously I ran the catfish both excellent maps . But to help the first tiny bit of throttle I balanced the throttle bodies more vaccum to the rear for more air and more fuel.and took all the slack out of the throttle cables .if you have carried out the above and you don't have any air leaks then I would look at the map . Let me know your thoughts on the above .

@@captbarb6642 I bought the bike from a guy that had it sitting in his back garden over the last 6 years, so there were some electrical issues I had to find and repair before I could even get it running, but I figured it out by checking continuity between the wires of the loom, to see where the issue was. I also needed to see if the issue was from the ECU. So, yes, one of the very first things I did was try to find a way to get into the ECU, which very helpfully there were both maps and the software available online! Even better was the wiring diagram to help connect the OBD2 to the ECU as well! So that's all golden:] I tried the catfish map, but haven't heard of the swordfish one. I also balanced the bodies with a manometer, so idles well:] I haven't tried increasing the vacuum on the second cylinder though. I'm certain I don't have any air leaks either, I've checked the boots and around the throttle bodies and air box:] I though the issue with the choppiness at first was the TPS, and got a spare, but the readings and response was the same, so I swapped back to the original. I've replaced the throttle with an aftermarket one and have it very neatly at the moment, a tiny bit of play, to help me figure when its catching the throttle for predictability and its super smooth and free, new cables and everything! It goes without saying that I also drained the gas tank, replaced the fuel hoses, cleaned the injectors, etc... I have been running it for the last 1.5 years, just its still choppy, so was hoping your map could help:]

@MrSimplicity92 do a Google for the swordfish map it's free they are Italian maps . I think they have three pufferfish , swordfish and another I can't remember. Allegedly the swordfish is the most aggressive map they say I think it's nice . One other thing would be to check the valve tolerances . The reason it has more vacuum more air to the rear cylinder as fuel is because the rear has to turn the crank 420 degrees so alot of work . A lot of people balance equal which could be your problem .www.apriliaontheroad.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=344&t=43049&sid=d994d5334208fb407a79f2057a5f3861&start=15 Try this link .

I've added a link about the Italian maps in the last post, have a look.

@@captbarb6642 Thank you Capt!

I think maybe I should have planned what I was going to say then I wouldn't have to think and umm, sorry they do get better .

@@captbarb6642 ppl um when they need a bit of think time without risk of interruption but obv you're not in a dialogue.

Wow that's some statement around the world I like it . At the moment I'm on my way back from Spain and Portugal on my old Aprilia Caponord.

@@captbarb6642 Excellent, I'm just back from 2,600 miles riding my 50 year old Ducati 750GT back to the factory in Bologna for its birthday - fabulous trip.

@@boredmalcontent funny that we went there on the Aprilia capo last month covered 3000 miles , I use to have the 1978 900ss nice bikes .

@@captbarb6642 As the MZ owners' manual says... 'In the high latitudes of Finland, in the parching heat of Africa, under the most different operating conditions these motor-cycles run to the satisfaction of their owners'

The cowboy 🤠 is feeling the worse for wear this morning he had his wine Glasses on last night ,two bottles in 🤢

Are the good ,bad and the Italian

I didn't know that is it more of a problem in warmer ambients . I may well look into what you have mentioned.

You may be right about a little too much fluid and not enough expansion I swapped the pads the other month when I went to Italy and didn't have much material left on them the pads are sbs not sure if there HH. Just removed a small amount of fluid it was nearer the max it's now in the middle see how it holds up today only got four and half hours fully loaded off mountain roads down to Porto area 😂.

Yes 40 in the sun very warm

Yes I left that on I thought it was funny. In Portugal now in chaves an old Roman town, with amazing mountain roads also .

The caliper adaptors were made as a special order for a group of people on the Aprilia forum if I remember right, I purchased mine from one of those people . I think any good machine shop could make them easy .

The only thing I can think of maybe you have a kink in your fuel line when reinstalling it we have all done that one. Or the quick releases are not allowing fuel to pass ? Does your fuel pump prime when key on if so disconnect the supply quick release to see if you have fuel there , then repeat on fuel return quick release if you have fitted one.

Sorry no prime needed it will self prime in seconds when starting

Thanks for your kind words at the moment on my capo in the Pico's mountains in northern Spain such a capable machine two up enjoying the sweeping bends up and down the mountains .

It's work checking for peace of mind.

What's max ECU?. I've never had a problem with tune ECU

@@captbarb6642 MaxxECU is aftermarket ECU, which I already have put into another bike. Installing it to Caponord is pretty simple since it is already EFI bike so all the necessary components are there, and also fuel and ignition maps are available on internet so it would be piece of cake to install, especially when compared to EFI conversion from carburetor. Of course it isn't very cheap but which hobby is? :D

@@sippilandia sounds great but I've not had a problem with the old efi system . The only problem I had was getting the pc you had tune ECU to run slow enough to talk.

@@captbarb6642 Yeah, it's not like I would really need it either, but it would just be fun to do.

@@sippilandia nice to keep our brains active .

Oh yes but this one is living in East Anglia

Yes the best thing to do but I brought some cheaper ones on eBay, jmp and all of them failed after running fuel and disconnecting once . The ones that are £50 are the quality ones with no problems . It's peace of mind .

@@captbarb6642 thanks for the tip 👍