@@rsimiao hello, I have a few but I'm going to give them away on my next video. If you are lucky you might win one. But unfortunately it will take a while until I release the video
Hai I am from india, belong to a state name kerala. Raly i am 100% happy to inform that i made the circut it is working absolutely fine. I don't know how to thank. Because you disclosed everything in a perfect way. Wishing you a good future. Thanks
@@marijamomcilovic9339 First, go to the setup mode and select the Tune option.In the tune mode the internal temperature (0-1023) is displayed on the screen. Rotate the encoder to manually select the applied power to the hot air gun. Heat the gun to 500 degrees. Then tune the trim-pot to set the temperature about 900 (in the internal units). Long press to the encoder return to the menu Then, go to the setup mode select Calibrate option. First, you should select one of the 3 calibration temperature (200, 300, 400) and press the encoder lightly to start calibration process. This procedure is iterative: you start with the some preset temperature value in internal units the controller heats the Hot Air Gun to this preset temperature and gets ready (beeps and question mark will be desipplyed). Then you measure the real temperature by the external thermo-couple. If the real temperature is not equal to the preset one, you should increase or decrease the internal preset temperature by rotating the encoder handle. The controller keeps the temperature near the preset value all the time. To increment the preset temperature, turn the encoder right, to decrease - turn it left. After all three reference temperature points will be calibrated, long press the encoder and come to main screen
@@sasiskas Dear Sir. Thank you for answering me. I did everything you mentioned in the message, but I still have some doubts: 1. After setting the TUNE value, it happens that when I enter the same again.. the relationship between temperature and the TUNE value is not the same as before, so I have to do again the TRIM pot. correction. 2. It VERY often happens that the Arduino resets when I turn the Rotary encoder... and it happens sporadically.. without any rule. It even happens that the display goes crazy and start showing undefined symbols on the screen. I changed 4 Arduino boards and everything is the same. I also replaced B0505S. 3. I saw RST is not connected anywhere...should I connect it on +VCC over 10K resistor or not? I DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO? Do You or anyone have some sugestion? HELP...HELP..HELP!!!!
Fortunately someone did it that what i want. So now, i know how to do that eventualy. Thanks Sir. Very high quality content. Waiting for part 2 with four eyes!
excellent project, thanks for the nice video. I am wondering: did you buy the hot air holder? do you intend or did you attach the reed function in order to stop the fan when putting the gun in the holder?
The reed switch was included in the heat gun. But it is easy to add if your heat gun doesn't include one (I'm pretty sure that all these heat guns come with the reed switch included though). The holder was included when I bought the (faulty) station.
Hello. I have a power supply with 2 separate 5v and 24v lines . Do I understand correctly that B0505s is not very important and it is possible to remove it and 2 strapping capacitors from the circuit to make the board a little more compact?
Amazing 👏, Is possible to design a pcb for the last project t12 soldering station, I build one exactly like yours as shown in the videos , but after couple months burn its seld , I think its bad soldering join or something like that 🤔. Thank you 😊.
easyeda.com/makgio/T12-Soldering-iron I have designed a single layer PCB long time ago. I have never tested it though. You are free to modify or use it at your own risk.
Can i use 24V my blow fan supply voltage 24v 2.why is it broken (damaged) heating element ? do I need to make any changes in the circuit? compatible for arduino nano ?
1,Yes you can use 24V fan. 2,It is broken because I abused it without tuning it. 3. The Arduino nano is compatible but physically it won't fit on the PCB. Just buy a pro mini.
Any low-noise, rail-to-rail, single power op-amp will do the job. Examples ad822, lm6118, lm6218, lt1122, lt1201, lt1213, lt1215, opa2132, opa2134, opa2227, opa2604, tle2072, tle2142, tle2227
Is it possible to change the B0505S 5v schematic design to a buck converter like mp1584 or lm2596 module? So i only have to install one dc input for the PCB
@@zwtsch b0505 is not necessary, it's actually useless. The best solution for stable 5V DC is to use a buck converter (with output of around 6V) and then a linear regulator with output of 5V.
@@sasiskas i wanna ask again, can i replace MCP602/AD822 IC for LM358? MCP206 is rare and expensive component in my country. i cannot import it either because the price will be as same as local price or even more expensive because the shipping and import tax
Hio i need very last chance a help :( I need the Pinout for the Reed ( Brown ) Is it Brown + Black or Brown + Black + Thermocoupr ( blue ) Brown + ( Blue ) ? How i find the 2 Reed Sleep wires :(( Please Please , help i am a big thx for
@@sasiskas okkk.. tengkyu, sasiska. I'll Try this project without hurriedly. and perhaps, there Will be something question later When there's obstacle...😃 You seem enjoyable for every ur creations, and really pay attention for every ur subscriber's comment, good luck.. 👍
I have made according to the one in your video and the code according to what you provided, but the temperature sensor on the soldering iron is not reading. is there any solution?
Dear Sir, I am glad that I came across your project on the Internet. I made it, complete...boxed and tied up..BUT..the time came to do the calibration, so the procedure is not clear to me. I set the temperature to 400 Celsius and measure it. It says when the thermometer reaches that temperature, then I set the reading to 900...but on your screen it is written TUNE, but on mine I don't have it. Can you explain the setup process a bit? Please..because I have reached the end...Thank you in advance
Sir, i did everything just like you but there is problem when i want to turn on the station.The fan runs from the begining and make noise and also the buzzer always make noise in every second.What can i do?please help...🙏🙏
(Regarding the DC PCB)Because the traces in some cases are really close to each other. It might be possible if you make a two layer etched pcb, but it would require a lot of planning also I believe that it would be a really tedious and painful process. Also it would probably require many attempts. So in my opinion it is not worth the effort. (Regarding the AC PCB) it can be etched , it's not a big deal.
@@sasiskas Don't have a lot of experience with etching but i was surprised how i managed to get 0.1mm traces to transfer well with cold transfer method In my case it's a lot cheaper than ordering 5 boards for ~$4 and ~$10-20 shipping
@@alexstone691 of course etching is cheaper than ordering a PCB. In my opinion, if you wan to make a cheap PCB, etching is the way to go. And if you can't make a small PCB like i did, then just make a bigger one. It doesn't have to be small.
Yes, you just need to buy a 120V compatible hot air gun (handle). It comes in 120V or 240V version. You need to buy the 120V version. a.aliexpress.com/_mLP8yQe
buenas tengo un problema, me podrias explicar donde conseguir las librerias avr/ion , avr/interrupt , liquidControls , y como instalarlas. ya tengo hecho el corcuito pero al meter el programa en el arduino pro mini no me deja me dice que me faltan estas librerias, gracias
Hello, you can install most libraries from github. There are many guides online that will help you. Just google "how to download and install Arduino library from github".
@@ardhi1269 any low-noise, rail-to-rail, single power op-amp will do the job. Examples ad822, lm6118, lm6218, lt1122, lt1201, lt1213, lt1215, opa2132, opa2134, opa2227, opa2604, tle2072, tle2142, tle2227
Hello Sir. Congratulations, nice work. My question would be, how would you be able to do the projection with an LCD display? Thank you very much for making it. Thanks. Hi.
buenas perdon por las molestias , ahora me pongo a verificar y al final me sale error copilando para la targeta pro mini , cambio de targeta y con todas me sale la misma alarma , no se que problema es me lo podrias decir, es que tengo interes en hacer el circuito, y si no me dices nada no voy a poder hacerlo. gracias
@Antonio Segado I found the problem. I think that you using a different library for the LCD. You need to use this one github.com/fdebrabander/Arduino-LiquidCrystal-I2C-library. If that doesn't work, try using "LiquidCrystal_I2C by Frank de Brabander" you can install it from the arduino library manager
Another very cool and great work! I actually have already done controller like this and stangelly it even works :) ! Even bought a couple of months back just the heat gun and the stand. I had the exact same usual approach, the mocs to drive the the triacs for the ac part and then the arduino to control the fan speed ... also used a irfz44n btw :) Another Great video Sasiskas! And then in the end the magic word: Give Away :) ! that will make it go viral! :)
Hey can you share a full working code, Because the code you uploaded contains the encoder error ('ENCODER' has not been declared ), I'm not good in Programing....
eu sonhava com um projeto assim pra eu construir um aparato pra colocar embaixo do meu microscopio contendo dois tipos de estaçao de ar quente e 3 tipos de ferro de solda alem de um dessoldador e um pic and place, muito agradecido aqui de salvador bahia brasil By Google translate >> I dreamed of a project like this for me to build an apparatus to put under the support of my microscope containing two types of hot air station and 3 types of soldering iron in addition to a desolder and a pic and place, very grateful here from salvador bahia Brazil
buenas ya he solucionado el problema de las librerias , pero al instalar el programa en el nº 481 (LiquidCrystal_I2C::begin(); ) me sale una alarma y me dice en los herrores no matching function for call to `DSPL ::begin()´ exit status 1 no matching function fot call to `DSPL ::begin()´ soy principiante en arduino si me podrias solucionar el problema te lo agradeceria
You can just make ot functional, you don't have to make it good looking. I think I got my crimping tool for less than 20$, it's the best value you can get. I bought it after watching plenty of reviews online. There is a link in the video description if you are interested.
saludos, este proyecto llego en el mejor instante, ya que llegue a ti por easyeda, donde estaba buscando exactamente esto el proyecto perfecto para los componentes que tengo, solo me resta agradecerte y desearte exitos, abrazos excelente y mejorando "Orlando L. Vro"
No. For isolation I am using plastic washers. For thermal conductivity you can use either thermal pads or compound as you said. I just don't like compound because it is very messy 😁
Sí, tiene usted razón. Hubo un error causado por el software que convirtió el esquema en un modelo 3D. Por alguna razón, no incluyó el rastreo para el arduino VCC. Tuve que usar un cable para conectar el arduino VCC, lo hice fuera de cámara. Tienes un buen ojo 😉
Hi, please, could you help me? I watched the video and saw you used a wire stripper and cutter almost identical to the one I have here. Therefore, I would like to ask if you can take it apart to see the location of a small piece of metal in a cylindrical shape because I am not able to find the exact place to fit it. This piece fell off before I was able to disassemble the stripper, when I positioned it vertically and went to unhook that red part of it. I assume that piece was next to the cutter. Thanks
Good evening...It"s me again! I apologize to everyone ...maybe I'm boring ..BUT..this project is giving me no peace! I still have a problem with setting the parameters! I go to TUNE and set the value to 900 when I read the temperature on the thermometer 400 degrees Celsius. That is okay!!! I exit from TUNE and enter in CALIBRATION ...I choose a temperature of 200 degrees Celsius ... I wait a while and with the rotary encoder .. in the lower right corner ... I set the value of the degrees that I read with the thermometer, on output... and so on for 300 and 400 degrees Celsius. In the end I go to the SAVE menu and save...I exit to the "normal" menu. BUT..BUT... when I turn off the device and turn it back on ..when I set the temperature for example..180, 250, 340 or any value of degrees and when I measure the temperature at the output...the value set and measured by the thermometer differs by up to 80 degrees Celsius!!! I HAVE DONE THIS MORE THAN 18 TIMES!!! Do you know what this is about??? And AGAIN...the device RESETS sporadically even when it is in the normal menu or when it is in the menu for TUNE OR CALIBRATION!!! I changed almost everything: three boards Arduino Pro Mini, B0505S , IRFZ44, BTA 12-600, MOC3021, 4N25. This started happening after my first Arduino board blew up and made a hole in the processor..why it happened..I don't know...before that the device worked without any problems. That"s it from me...does anyone know what is going on??? Any advice...???
Hey everyone. There is going to be a giveaway on part 2, so stay tuned! ✌️
When will it appear. So wondering about final of this project!
@@socialbeat2587 approximately by the end of this month. I am still working on it.
Sorry for the delay guys. I am still waiting for a component. As soon as I receive it, I will post part 2.
@@sasiskas hey Sasiskas, do you still have any spare PCBs to sell? (AC/DC pcbs)
@@rsimiao hello, I have a few but I'm going to give them away on my next video. If you are lucky you might win one. But unfortunately it will take a while until I release the video
Hai
I am from india, belong to a state name kerala. Raly i am 100% happy to inform that i made the circut it is working absolutely fine. I don't know how to thank. Because you disclosed everything in a perfect way. Wishing you a good future.
Thanks
I am really happy that I helped someone in this world. 🙏 I wish you the best.
Can i know you are from which cuntry
How You did callibration? Can You send/explane me procedure? I also made it several months ago but that's the only thing left for me to do
@@marijamomcilovic9339 First, go to the setup mode and select the Tune option.In the tune mode the internal temperature (0-1023) is displayed on the screen. Rotate the encoder to manually select the applied power to the hot air gun. Heat the gun to 500 degrees. Then tune the trim-pot to set the temperature about 900 (in the internal units). Long press to the encoder return to the menu
Then, go to the setup mode select Calibrate option.
First, you should select one of the 3 calibration temperature (200, 300, 400) and press the encoder lightly to start calibration process. This procedure is iterative: you start with the some preset temperature value in internal units the controller heats the Hot Air Gun to this preset temperature and gets ready (beeps and question mark will be desipplyed). Then you measure the real temperature by the external thermo-couple. If the real temperature is not equal to the preset one, you should increase or decrease the internal preset temperature by rotating the encoder handle.
The controller keeps the temperature near the preset value all the time. To increment the preset temperature, turn the encoder right, to decrease - turn it left.
After all three reference temperature points will be calibrated, long press the encoder and come to main screen
@@sasiskas Dear Sir. Thank you for answering me. I did everything you mentioned in the message, but I still have some doubts:
1. After setting the TUNE value, it happens that when I enter the same again.. the relationship between temperature and the TUNE value is not the same as before, so I have to do again the TRIM pot. correction.
2. It VERY often happens that the Arduino resets when I turn the Rotary encoder... and it happens sporadically.. without any rule. It even happens that the display goes crazy and start showing undefined symbols on the screen. I changed 4 Arduino boards and everything is the same. I also replaced B0505S.
3. I saw RST is not connected anywhere...should I connect it on +VCC over 10K resistor or not?
I DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO? Do You or anyone have some sugestion? HELP...HELP..HELP!!!!
Fortunately someone did it that what i want. So now, i know how to do that eventualy. Thanks Sir. Very high quality content. Waiting for part 2 with four eyes!
permission to ask, what control method is used?
nice build. can you make 2 in 1. hot air and soldering iron in 1. with pcb.
hallo, can i use resistor 33ohm 5w? for the ac pcb?
Hello sir, I put bt139 tric on the heetar side of this project, but when power is given, the tric burns, what is the error..😢😢
Hello!
Thanks for the video.
About the hot gun, I can use replace the quick 850? About REED then i can DIY it!
Thank u sir, is this code contain pid controller
Hello sir when the coil of the hot gun is heated to 400c. Exactly how much voltage does the sensor produce in mv? ...
excellent project, thanks for the nice video. I am wondering: did you buy the hot air holder? do you intend or did you attach the reed function in order to stop the fan when putting the gun in the holder?
The reed switch was included in the heat gun. But it is easy to add if your heat gun doesn't include one (I'm pretty sure that all these heat guns come with the reed switch included though).
The holder was included when I bought the (faulty) station.
@@sasiskas thanks, .. again, very nice work - especially the way you mounted the PCBs in the case.
Can I use a Solid State Relay as a switch instaed of the triac?
can i use arduino nano instead of pro mini ? THank you
How can I find the gerber file ı dont have patreon :(
Hi bro, what is the point of b0505s ic, and can i use utc4558 op amp instead of mcp602?
Hello. I have a power supply with 2 separate 5v and 24v lines . Do I understand correctly that B0505s is not very important and it is possible to remove it and 2 strapping capacitors from the circuit to make the board a little more compact?
You are correct. it can work without the B0505s. You can remove it and also the capacitors that are connected to it.
@@sasiskas thanks
what is the value of the resistor r13 (39Ω 39kΩ)?
en la patilla vcc del pro mini no llega alimentacion en la placa, he revisado el video y no le llega,me podria decir como alimentar el pro mini
Output of B0505s (5Volts) goes to Arduino VCC.
You can also see that from the schematics in my dropbox.
Not calibrate temperature?
Great video .What is at 12:25 karate move's details :) is chemical or a cutter (mechanical) :)
Just poke it using a flat head screw driver ua-cam.com/video/nvxkaqxeXsM/v-deo.html
Hi
I do not know how to find this project pcb
Please help me
Hi,where i can get your design of pcb?
@@faditindra1789 its in the video description
Amazing 👏,
Is possible to design a pcb for the last project t12 soldering station,
I build one exactly like yours as shown in the videos , but after couple months burn its seld , I think its bad soldering join or something like that 🤔.
Thank you 😊.
easyeda.com/makgio/T12-Soldering-iron
I have designed a single layer PCB long time ago. I have never tested it though. You are free to modify or use it at your own risk.
@@sasiskas thank you so much , I trust you
Can i use 24V my blow fan supply voltage 24v 2.why is it broken (damaged) heating element ? do I need to make any changes in the circuit? compatible for arduino nano ?
1,Yes you can use 24V fan.
2,It is broken because I abused it without tuning it.
3. The Arduino nano is compatible but physically it won't fit on the PCB. Just buy a pro mini.
Okay i use perforated board, how to heat element temperature calibrate ? What is instructions ? Thanks for answering
@@neswblvck7512 there is a photo with instructions in my drop box folder
please send me the black and white pcb file because i can't read schematics
Can you please explain the circuit ?
Amazing DIY project. can i replace mcp602/ad822 with lmv358.
Any low-noise, rail-to-rail, single power op-amp will do the job.
Examples ad822, lm6118, lm6218, lt1122, lt1201, lt1213, lt1215, opa2132, opa2134, opa2227, opa2604, tle2072, tle2142, tle2227
Is it possible to change the B0505S 5v schematic design to a buck converter like mp1584 or lm2596 module? So i only have to install one dc input for the PCB
@@zwtsch b0505 is not necessary, it's actually useless.
The best solution for stable 5V DC is to use a buck converter (with output of around 6V) and then a linear regulator with output of 5V.
@@sasiskas thanks, i'm currently redesigning the scematic but with SMD components to make it more compact
@@sasiskas i wanna ask again, can i replace MCP602/AD822 IC for LM358? MCP206 is rare and expensive component in my country. i cannot import it either because the price will be as same as local price or even more expensive because the shipping and import tax
@@zwtsch no you can't. You must use one of these amps. These amps are rail-to-rail amplifiers, LM358 is not. You must use a rail to rail amplifier
@@sasiskas okay, thank you very much.
Hio i need very last chance a help :(
I need the Pinout for the Reed ( Brown )
Is it Brown + Black or
Brown + Black + Thermocoupr ( blue )
Brown + ( Blue ) ?
How i find the 2 Reed Sleep wires :((
Please Please , help i am a big thx for
Hii.. sasiska,
what's the voltage of your 4.7uf & 10uf capacitor??
Anything capacitor with voltage higher than 5V is ok
@@sasiskas soo, no matter with 25 or 50v ?
Exactly. The rated voltage value of the capacitor must be equal or higher of the voltage that is supplied to the capacitor.
@@sasiskas okkk.. tengkyu, sasiska.
I'll Try this project without hurriedly.
and perhaps, there Will be something question later When there's obstacle...😃
You seem enjoyable for every ur creations, and really pay attention for every ur subscriber's comment,
good luck.. 👍
can you make soldering station for hakko 936 handle ?
Hakko 936 is the same as hakko 907. I have already made one ua-cam.com/video/PnqGLrhWQqc/v-deo.html
Excellent
Can you share gerber file or pcb layout so that we can make
Thanks
An awesome project can you make a video about PID (priority to the coding part)?
I might make a video in the future
I want to ask, why is the temperature sensor not working? do you use a thermoresistor or a pid?
Pid is the code (method) of controlling the temperature.
Thermoresistor is the hardware, for measuring the temperature (something like a thermometer)
I have made according to the one in your video and the code according to what you provided, but the temperature sensor on the soldering iron is not reading. is there any solution?
@@sasiskas sensor reading on mcp602 not working.
@@onesolderchannel3699 where did you buy your mcp602?
@@sasiskas Shopee,
Hi friend, how can you calib temperature. in made it but the temperature just only 316 degree maximimum.?
What kind of op amp did you use?
@@sasiskas i used lm358.
@@kongkinh9716 that's why you have problem. You have to use a rail to rail op amp. Lm358 is not a rail to rail op amp
@@sasiskas i think poblem is 5v apply to lm385. when i try 24v it work perfectly.
can you help me calib temperature of the hot air?
Welcome, sir. I'm sorry but I misspelled my question. I didn't mean an LCD display but an OLED display. Thanks.
It can be done, but you will have to switch from Arduino to Esp32. Also the code beeds to be modified. But it can be done if you have basic knowledge
Thanks for the quick response. I'm just an avid amateur. I was thinking that maybe you could create this project and share it with us. Thanks.
@@bakonyi72 i was thinking about it, if I ever do a new project it is going to be something like that
@@sasiskas Perfect. I can not wait. Thanks in advance.
Dear Sir, I am glad that I came across your project on the Internet. I made it, complete...boxed and tied up..BUT..the time came to do the calibration, so the procedure is not clear to me. I set the temperature to 400 Celsius and measure it. It says when the thermometer reaches that temperature, then I set the reading to 900...but on your screen it is written TUNE, but on mine I don't have it. Can you explain the setup process a bit? Please..because I have reached the end...Thank you in advance
Sir, i did everything just like you but there is problem when i want to turn on the station.The fan runs from the begining and make noise and also the buzzer always make noise in every second.What can i do?please help...🙏🙏
I can't buy through patreon, what's the solution?
Don't know what is wrong with Patreon. If you want the Gerber files, you can get them for free from here easyeda.com/makgio/projects
@@sasiskas Bagaimana cara mendownload file gerbernya?
@@sasiskas agar saya dapat mencetak PCBnya?
@@sasiskas Can you send the gerber file via email?
How can you not achieve such a small pcb using etching?
(Regarding the DC PCB)Because the traces in some cases are really close to each other. It might be possible if you make a two layer etched pcb, but it would require a lot of planning also I believe that it would be a really tedious and painful process. Also it would probably require many attempts. So in my opinion it is not worth the effort.
(Regarding the AC PCB) it can be etched , it's not a big deal.
@@sasiskas Don't have a lot of experience with etching but i was surprised how i managed to get 0.1mm traces to transfer well with cold transfer method
In my case it's a lot cheaper than ordering 5 boards for ~$4 and ~$10-20 shipping
@@alexstone691 of course etching is cheaper than ordering a PCB. In my opinion, if you wan to make a cheap PCB, etching is the way to go. And if you can't make a small PCB like i did, then just make a bigger one. It doesn't have to be small.
Awesome design! Would this work on 120V?
Yes, you just need to buy a 120V compatible hot air gun (handle).
It comes in 120V or 240V version. You need to buy the 120V version.
a.aliexpress.com/_mLP8yQe
@@sasiskas Thank You
first the T12 now the hot air gun, brilliant.
next video, electronic microscope ? lol.
buenas tengo un problema, me podrias explicar donde conseguir las librerias avr/ion , avr/interrupt , liquidControls , y como instalarlas. ya tengo hecho el corcuito pero al meter el programa en el arduino pro mini no me deja me dice que me faltan estas librerias, gracias
Hello, you can install most libraries from github. There are many guides online that will help you.
Just google "how to download and install Arduino library from github".
Can we use lm358 instead of mcp602?
No, it's noisy , also it is not rail to rail.
@@sasiskas is k type thermocouple used here?
@@sasiskas how about tl062
@@ardhi1269 any low-noise, rail-to-rail, single power op-amp will do the job.
Examples ad822, lm6118, lm6218, lt1122, lt1201, lt1213, lt1215, opa2132, opa2134, opa2227, opa2604, tle2072, tle2142, tle2227
@@pruthuvinavod7035 It is a thermocouple, probably K type
Can i use arduino nano?
Yes, but you will have to edit the Gerber files
Pretty awesome
Such a Great project
I like all of your project
Thanks
Hello Sir. Congratulations, nice work. My question would be, how would you be able to do the projection with an LCD display? Thank you very much for making it. Thanks. Hi.
Can we have garber file ... please?
easyeda.com/makgio/diy-hot-air-station
@@sasiskas Thank You VERY MUCH !!
buenas perdon por las molestias , ahora me pongo a verificar y al final me sale error copilando para la targeta pro mini , cambio de targeta y con todas me sale la misma alarma , no se que problema es me lo podrias decir, es que tengo interes en hacer el circuito, y si no me dices nada no voy a poder hacerlo. gracias
Hello, don't worry. Feel free to ask anything you like. I will look into it in the following days and I will let you know
@Antonio Segado I found the problem. I think that you using a different library for the LCD. You need to use this one github.com/fdebrabander/Arduino-LiquidCrystal-I2C-library.
If that doesn't work, try using "LiquidCrystal_I2C by Frank de Brabander" you can install it from the arduino library manager
Hi enginee i wonder if you made an arduino and PCB source file that ican make🙏🙏🙏❤❤
Another very cool and great work! I actually have already done controller like this and stangelly it even works :) ! Even bought a couple of months back just the heat gun and the stand. I had the exact same usual approach, the mocs to drive the the triacs for the ac part and then the arduino to control the fan speed ... also used a irfz44n btw :) Another Great video Sasiskas! And then in the end the magic word: Give Away :) ! that will make it go viral! :)
Hey can you share a full working code, Because the code you uploaded contains the encoder error ('ENCODER' has not been declared
), I'm not good in Programing....
The code is ok ...are you sure you are not doing something wrong?
@@sasiskas I'm just trying to upload code to arduino. Such an error occurs.
@@raghavbhalodiya9947 make sure that you have installed all necessary libraries
@@sasiskas I think (Common controls.h) library is missing.
And in folder only two library are available 1. Liquidcrystal 2. Liquidcrystal i2c
@@raghavbhalodiya9947 github.com/sfrwmaker/CommonControls
Just google, how to install Arduino library from GitHub
Hallo sir. I have problem, with coding not found. can you help me sir?
Bạn phải cài librari ( thư viện) cho nó
eu sonhava com um projeto assim pra eu construir um aparato pra colocar embaixo do meu microscopio contendo dois tipos de estaçao de ar quente e 3 tipos de ferro de solda alem de um dessoldador e um pic and place, muito agradecido aqui de salvador bahia brasil
By Google translate >> I dreamed of a project like this for me to build an apparatus to put under the support of my microscope containing two types of hot air station and 3 types of soldering iron in addition to a desolder and a pic and place, very grateful here from salvador bahia Brazil
buenas ya he solucionado el problema de las librerias , pero al instalar el programa en el nº 481 (LiquidCrystal_I2C::begin(); ) me sale una alarma y me dice en los herrores no matching function for call to `DSPL ::begin()´
exit status 1
no matching function fot call to `DSPL ::begin()´
soy principiante en arduino si me podrias solucionar el problema te lo agradeceria
Find this
[ LiquidCrystal_12C::init (); ]
And add the following line:
[LiquidCrystal_12C:: backlight (); ]
he intentado y me sale misma alarma, intentare como solucionar el problena, de todos modos muchas gracias
It is 100% problem of library.
Try to find the correct library or try editing the code (replace the word "begin" with the word "init")
Bagaimana caranya untuk mendapatkan file gerber?
Error comiling for board arduino nano
God damn you're neat, wish i had the money to do it this neat
How much is the crimping tool for duopunt ?
You can just make ot functional, you don't have to make it good looking.
I think I got my crimping tool for less than 20$, it's the best value you can get. I bought it after watching plenty of reviews online. There is a link in the video description if you are interested.
saludos, este proyecto llego en el mejor instante, ya que llegue a ti por easyeda, donde estaba buscando exactamente esto el proyecto perfecto para los componentes que tengo, solo me resta agradecerte y desearte exitos, abrazos excelente y mejorando "Orlando L. Vro"
Thank you for your kind words. I am really happy that I help other people with my projects
i can't get to your patreon
If you need the Gerber files, you don't need to become my patron. Just visit easyeda.com/makgio
That's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Good job bro 👍👍👍
Put some thermal compound on that transistor for better heat transfer
But yeahh... seems the transistor not gonna get that hot anyway
Thnx for the comment. I used thermal pads in case you didn't notice. ✌️
@@sasiskas ouhh i thought that's isolators
No. For isolation I am using plastic washers. For thermal conductivity you can use either thermal pads or compound as you said.
I just don't like compound because it is very messy 😁
Ill try to make this! Awesome video as always
Can i have garber file please
me refiero a la placa verde los dos vcc del pro mini no le veo ninguna pista de llegada
Sí, tiene usted razón. Hubo un error causado por el software que convirtió el esquema en un modelo 3D. Por alguna razón, no incluyó el rastreo para el arduino VCC. Tuve que usar un cable para conectar el arduino VCC, lo hice fuera de cámara. Tienes un buen ojo 😉
Hy sir, can u sent me your gerber file.
Amazing video as always!!! Good job!!!
it doesn't allow downloading!!!
I just tried downloading something from the dropbox folder and it works just fine
Another interesting project, great job!
Urmăresc cu mare interes toate proiectele tale! ;)
Hi, please, could you help me?
I watched the video and saw you used a wire stripper and cutter almost identical to the one I have here. Therefore, I would like to ask if you can take it apart to see the location of a small piece of metal in a cylindrical shape because I am not able to find the exact place to fit it. This piece fell off before I was able to disassemble the stripper, when I positioned it vertically and went to unhook that red part of it. I assume that piece was next to the cutter.
Thanks
Thank you for this amazing video
Really cool idea.
Part 2 when
In a few weeks, maybe a month. Im still working on it.
@@sasiskas ok for part 2 I am soo excited
I once told to comment on this video
Amazing I will also try And I will share with you after it is made.
thank you, i loved it!!!
Good job
Wow. Good job.
Very very good!!!
Commoncontrol.h no such file or directory
Did you install the library?
@@sasiskas yes
@@sasiskasi searched for commoncontrols library online but not available
github.com/sfrwmaker/CommonControls
Just google, how to install Arduino library from GitHub
@@sasiskas thanks your awesome
Good evening...It"s me again! I apologize to everyone ...maybe I'm boring ..BUT..this project is giving me no peace! I still have a problem with setting the parameters! I go to TUNE and set the value to 900 when I read the temperature on the thermometer 400 degrees Celsius. That is okay!!! I exit from TUNE and enter in CALIBRATION ...I choose a temperature of 200 degrees Celsius ... I wait a while and with the rotary encoder .. in the lower right corner ... I set the value of the degrees that I read with the thermometer, on output... and so on for 300 and 400 degrees Celsius. In the end I go to the SAVE menu and save...I exit to the "normal" menu. BUT..BUT... when I turn off the device and turn it back on ..when I set the temperature for example..180, 250, 340 or any value of degrees and when I measure the temperature at the output...the value set and measured by the thermometer differs by up to 80 degrees Celsius!!! I HAVE DONE THIS MORE THAN 18 TIMES!!! Do you know what this is about??? And AGAIN...the device RESETS sporadically even when it is in the normal menu or when it is in the menu for TUNE OR CALIBRATION!!! I changed almost everything: three boards Arduino Pro Mini, B0505S , IRFZ44, BTA 12-600, MOC3021, 4N25. This started happening after my first Arduino board blew up and made a hole in the processor..why it happened..I don't know...before that the device worked without any problems. That"s it from me...does anyone know what is going on??? Any advice...???
hi, how fix this problems?
ohh finaly ım sooooo happy bro thank u
Ok, tanks
very good
I was waiting for it!
Goood very good
Plz help sir..😢🎉
please gerber file...😁
It's available in my patreon page ✌️
Problem in uploading code please help
What is a problem? Can I help somehow?
B0505S, you must put it. 🤔