FINALLY SOMEONE HAS DONE IT!!! You now belong to the god tier of electronics youtubers. I've been looking for a tutorial on this for years. I've always wondered why no one has made a proper tutorial about it. The amount of detail on the steps are beyond great! I've learned something new today, thank you. Subbed!
Thanks man! Been using this for nearly 3 years now, now I have two of them. My old version 1 and the version 2 from this video. I'll make a github for the updated version of the code with the PID version of the code.
@@TechBuilder sir nakapag gawa kana po ba ng bagong code with PID naman po? gusto ko po sana matutunan yung PID system sa pag control ng heating element po na ito. Salamat po.
I don't understand anything you said in the video but still enjoy watching it. Im really interested in electronics and i hope one day i can understand everything you talk in this video.
A big thanks , I spend 6 months in my RV and loving to do projects on the road and my Hanko Take a bit of room and dealing with that pesky extension cord. I printed your lid with a Dewalt battery adapter" That I always carry for my drill" . I also just did one for my nephew in-Law for a Makita battery. I will post both on Thigiverse under HANKO.
I am an old man but I sure do enjoy you young folks and all your knowledge. I want to build one of these but I'm not sure I have the ability to do it. Thanks for your video. I'll try to follow along and make one.
CORRECTION!!!! - Use the IRLZ44N not the IRFZ44N. The PCB label and schematic on the video lacked the "L". Your MOSFET will run hot if you use the non-logic level IRFZ44N MOSFET. For MOSFET alternatives visit the instructable link. I personally prefer the IRLB4132. - Due to tiny revisions, please refer to the file package schematics or the instructable tutorial. I update them often for typos and corrections. The one on the Google drive is all fixed. - To those who ordered my PCB you should be good to go, the tiny errors in the schematic and PDF files had nothing to do with the PCB links. - I accidentally swapped and mislabeled Vin and Vout from the voltage divider equation when I was transcribing my hand written docs. The computation wasn't affected.
Thank you brother i didn't find any solution for my 928D soldering station tip tharmal conductivity. I purchased lots of tip but no one gave me a good result...then i followed your tharmal paste idea...and it was really surprising that my 2 years old iron tip working as like a brand new tip.....thanks
sexier version of great scott's JBC station. looks really good! I can hear eevblog saying "hakko!" hahaha. The hakko connector was the only thing that kept me from making one before. Thanks for including the pinout documentation. I will try to buy a clone and replace the connector with a 4 pin aux. love the vid 💯
Thanks!! Ummm I think the aux might be a bad idea since the contact resistance increases overtime when the surface oxidizes. I suggest using two DC jacks or a 4 pin header connector :) Have fun!
thanks for the thermistor value graph. since I don't have programming skills or an Arduino I'll just steeeaaal the graph details to make the analog version. thanks again!
I gotta say, ever since I saw you on the news about the Filipino kid that invented a device that charges your phone while walking I subscribed on your channel. Great content! Keep it up. That thermal paste hack tho. Touché hahaha galing mo man
i just stumbled onto this video from doing a YT search. after watching this video (my 1st from your channel) i decided to sub/bell. thanks for the great info and making it real clear (which includes the superb A/V).
I completely understand how to make this and I WANT to make this, but I literally don't have the knowledge for it. I don't understand technical diagrams/schematics and I would have literally no idea how to tune or find out all the voltages stuff. However, thank you so much for making this video. I hope I can make this some day :')
Your joints are on point! You should do a tutorial on basic soldering. I that LTC chip on the vid one of your new projects? Looks like a big project. Once again, great tutorial!
the best project on youtube for beginners in electronics who want to build a variable temp soldering station, brilliant work, thank you so much. I will do a bit of research on how to detect idle on the base to sleep the iron, but any tips would be welcome.
Ngayon ko lang ulit naalala to si sir angelo Napanood ko dati sa tv Yung video nya regarding sa piezoelectric generator Na amaze ako non kasi nabalita sa tv yon Naalala ko lang damit nya nung nasa table sya tas nakasalamin sya Nung hinanap ko ibang video regarding sayo sir nagulat ako hehe Nakaka inspire sobra hehe mahilig din ako sa electronics, sa mga pangangalikot Skl hehe, idol ka sir angelo Btw tanong ko lang po saan kayo na order ng parts niyan sa manila hehe Salamat sir angelo ! Idol!!
Fantastic, you made me go to back to Proteus again (abandoned since 2014). I will try a slight add thinking on using it hours in a real job. I miss someting to reduce temp when device is in support unused waiting for Next solder attempt. I think a LDR placed on the external support could do the job, when dark comes "handle on support" the arduino could pass to económic Mode. When darkness goes away "Handle out of support" back to normal Mode again. Just an additional 2 pin plug for the external LDR and some board modification.
I decided to use a pin header for the connections. Plus, I figured why you are able to disconnect the soldering iron: in case the soldering iron gets destroyed, you can replace it easily.
A good video would be showing those of us that are interested in learning the Arduino code would be watching you explain the program that you developed for this project. Thanks for the video.
Good project but ... there are some issues with this setup: 1- The very cheap Hakko clones handles do not have ceramic heaters. I storngly suggest replacing the heating element for the Hakko 1321. 2- If the heating element is a Hakko 1321 (or clone of that) ceramic heating element then the iron will have 50W of power and have JK junction sensors, not thermistors. 3- Even if IRFZ44N is a logic level mosfet (for 5V logic) at least for up to 10A-20A Drain current it requires a drive since you're actuating the mosfet with a PWM cycle. I imagine the PWM cycle could reach 30KHz-50KHz ... so that means a transistor to drive the base is necessary. 4- A simple linear regulator even in a TO-92 package would suffice to be the source power for the arduino and Display there's no need for the module used although of course that works also.
Thanks! I did mention in in the video to replace the clone heating element with an original one, they're pretty cheap too. Yep, other models use thermocouples, the MAX6675 would work well with k-types. The PWM frequency with pin 10 was left on Arduino's default frequency of 490Hz, the IRFZ44N should suffice. I've built three of these already, they're pretty stable. The IRLB4132 on the other hand is my favourite logic level MOSFETs for most PWM projects below 30V. For the regulator, I'm assuming you're referring to the 78L05. Dont forget, that the LCD backlight is relatively power hungry if a linear regulator were to be used for a 24V-5V voltage difference (if vin is bypassed). The system on standby runs at around 0.12A at 5V, at 24V the heat dissipated is around 2.2W, most TO-92 linear regulators are limited to 1W. In my experience these often fail fast when the thermals are neglected. The TO-220 7805 would be a wise choice, but heatsinking would probably be required. Regardless if it was board mounted or D2PAK soldered, it's going to dissipate too much heat. I went with the buck since the specific model to keep the board small, cool and effecient. Bucks are kinda cheap these days :) But I guess there's no stopping on anyone who decides to hotwire a linear reg on the buck pins.
@@TechBuilder If you only use 490Hz then it may be stable since the gate will have time to discharge and charge with not a significant amount of RC dumping effect. But the change for a 1321 ceramic heating element I strongly suggest. It's a big difference specially when it comes to heating times. It heats to the setpoint temperature much faster then those pre-instaled in very cheap 907 handles. And also they're not that expensive. I also prefer the IRBL4132 but I think I have the same problem you have ... a ton of IRFZ44N lying around waiting to be used :) About the linear regulator well with the display being a 1602 you're right a TO-220 would be advisable, with a heatsink. Like I said the small buck converter works just fine.
A welder w101 is a good as is alternative. Heat goes from 300f to 850f. I used all sorts of parts so I needed highest for the bubbling for high voltage parts.
What do your heating-element and the inside of the tips look like when you exchange them after having used thermal paste between them? The datasheets of most thermal pastes I could find indicate that they decompose well below common soldering temperatures.
У него был модель нагреавтелного элемента A1321 а там стоит термистор 50 ом (при температуре 25 г) У меня оказывается нагреавтелный элемент A1322 с термопарой 1.0 ом (при температуре 25 г)
That's a freak'n good vid mate! God, I'm glac you did this,thanks alot, A LOT!!!! Just a little question though: can you tell us an average price of the project (without power supply) ?? Thanks again.
У меня сопротивление у датчика всего 1.5 ома (при температуре 30 г). А не 50 ома как у вас. И когда подал напряжение 12в (то что был в руках) сопротивление датчика поднялось до 120 ома (к сожалению не было возможности измерять температуру наконечнике) Как мне поступить? Хочу повторить проект. Как я понял надо заново рассчитать сопротивление резисторов да? Не могли бы помочь? Спасибо заранее.
You had done a great job on this soldering station. Perhaps you can design a desoldering station for your later project. de-soldering stations are very useful tools and very expensive.
Is that possible with a MOSFET driver and irfz44n, I can't find IRL version. If possible then can you say the frequency needs for MOSFET driver? Please 🥺🙏
Why did you run the +5V on the pcb from the Arduino that power's up the LM358 and the LCD display through the A3 pin of the Arduino?, does that not affect something?, and still the schematic doesn't show that connection. And another thing is that driving the mosfet directly from Arduino is not quite ideal because the output is only 5V and the mosfet will not be fully opened and will run a bit hot, you need at least 10 V on the gate.
Why use a nano when any ATtiny would suffice? I’d also seriously considering overvolting it to 30-36VDC. There’s little risk of the element fusing, especially if you use a PID algorithm to stop the temperature rising so quickly, but it could be a great help when working on heavy gauge materials. I’d also like to see this done with a T12 handle, as the cartridge tips tend to have significantly better thermal performance, if for a higher price. Their thermistor layout is also kinda odd from what I remember, so temperature sensing may be more difficult.
While ATtiny is cheaper, the beginner's in electronics are much more familiar with the Nano. Overvolting is a good idea but tiny bucks that can support above 30V are harder to find for the newbies. This tutorial was made in a way to let beginners get into MCUs and not scare them away. I have separate tech savy tutorial segments like the recent MPPT SCC where I didn't hold back from the component selection. I might revisit this old project and make a beefier and complex version of it. There's also a better version of the T12, I might use it if I were to revisit this project.
It would! :D I attached it to a 6S li-ion pack when I was soldering my solar panel's line when I was soldering on the roof 😅 I made a tiny version of this with some 18650 slots and a belt buckle.
Thank you for your project, i made it but for the first while it doesn't work because you have missed the GND wire on you PCB (PDF) and when i added this wire every thing is was ok. So thanks any way.
Please make one video on how to design PCB Schematic Diagram and it's gerber file ? Which software you are using to design ? Which software you are using to design circuit diagram ? take example on ATmega328P with following components relay , dc power jack ,Screw terminals .
I have one! They're pretty fast to be honest. I just dislike the grip on the thing. I use it often for remote repairs with a PD powerbank and the USB-C bypass board.
@@TechBuilder that's the new one, the ts80. I didn't like the usbc thing so I bought the old one. I didn't get how much would your diy project cost tho.
I meant the old one. I just added a USB passthrough so I can connect the old TS100 to USB-C, never knew they have a USB-C version now. The cost was roughly about $7, from where I got my parts (excluding the power supply).
FINALLY SOMEONE HAS DONE IT!!! You now belong to the god tier of electronics youtubers. I've been looking for a tutorial on this for years. I've always wondered why no one has made a proper tutorial about it. The amount of detail on the steps are beyond great! I've learned something new today, thank you. Subbed!
Thanks man! Been using this for nearly 3 years now, now I have two of them. My old version 1 and the version 2 from this video. I'll make a github for the updated version of the code with the PID version of the code.
@@TechBuilder Hope you upload them soon. 👍
Are you in the Philippines? Can i buy one from you instead?
Bilihin ko na lang sobrang PCB mo? Para di na ako mag etch pa :)
@@TechBuilder sir nakapag gawa kana po ba ng bagong code with PID naman po? gusto ko po sana matutunan yung PID system sa pag control ng heating element po na ito. Salamat po.
Good reverse and forward engineering job. I too was blown away at the thermal grease mod. Best thing I watched all day.
I don't understand anything you said in the video but still enjoy watching it. Im really interested in electronics and i hope one day i can understand everything you talk in this video.
This will my next soldering station project.
Enjoy!
This video is awesome, all the details, every step, options for other users while still being quick and entertaining. 10/10 did watch again
Thank you! It means a lot! ❤️
This is the best soldering work station. Simple and direct. No need to spend extra $$$ to buy temperature reader to calibrate
A big thanks , I spend 6 months in my RV and loving to do projects on the road and my Hanko Take a bit of room and dealing with that pesky extension cord. I printed your lid with a Dewalt battery adapter" That I always carry for my drill" . I also just did one for my nephew in-Law for a Makita battery. I will post both on Thigiverse under HANKO.
Ang galing mo bata! Sana marami pang mga pinoy na bumangon katulad mo.
I would absolutely die for a DIY kit to buy from you! This looks way more compact than my Chinese 936D soldering station! Kudos!
I love the aestheic of the container. Rounded corners ftw.
Thanks Benj!!
Black PLA as opposed to spraypainting seems a better choice. Nice job 👍
I am an old man but I sure do enjoy you young folks and all your knowledge. I want to build one of these but I'm not sure I have the ability to do it. Thanks for your video. I'll try to follow along and make one.
Another excellent DIY explained concisely. Injecting thermal paste inside the soldering iron? A bonus tip!
I love the simplistic design, smooth and clean,im gonna build this
Thermal paste hack is briliant. 👍👍
CORRECTION!!!!
- Use the IRLZ44N not the IRFZ44N. The PCB label and schematic on the video lacked the "L". Your MOSFET will run hot if you use the non-logic level IRFZ44N MOSFET. For MOSFET alternatives visit the instructable link. I personally prefer the IRLB4132.
- Due to tiny revisions, please refer to the file package schematics or the instructable tutorial. I update them often for typos and corrections. The one on the Google drive is all fixed.
- To those who ordered my PCB you should be good to go, the tiny errors in the schematic and PDF files had nothing to do with the PCB links.
- I accidentally swapped and mislabeled Vin and Vout from the voltage divider equation when I was transcribing my hand written docs. The computation wasn't affected.
can i suggest next that you build a soldering station that include a heater gun and banana plug input (for other testing)?
That's a great idea! I can perhaps make an adapter for this one too :D
so this doc we can still follow sir right?
I don't see the sleep mode, why don't let the 5th wire be the sensor
@@Van-Hoa-Viet Want me to add a sleep mode code variant? I don't find the sleep mode useful so I removed it from the code.
Someday I wish I could be like you guys, designing and programming stuff. Cheers from the PH!
Hi! Reading books & journals help! You will be! Just keep your curiosity running! :)
Thank you brother i didn't find any solution for my 928D soldering station tip tharmal conductivity. I purchased lots of tip but no one gave me a good result...then i followed your tharmal paste idea...and it was really surprising that my 2 years old iron tip working as like a brand new tip.....thanks
Super cool! Thanks for including all the details of your design process.
Thanks man!
sexier version of great scott's JBC station. looks really good! I can hear eevblog saying "hakko!" hahaha. The hakko connector was the only thing that kept me from making one before. Thanks for including the pinout documentation. I will try to buy a clone and replace the connector with a 4 pin aux. love the vid 💯
Thanks!! Ummm I think the aux might be a bad idea since the contact resistance increases overtime when the surface oxidizes. I suggest using two DC jacks or a 4 pin header connector :) Have fun!
thanks for the thermistor value graph. since I don't have programming skills or an Arduino I'll just steeeaaal the graph details to make the analog version. thanks again!
SUPER, Well done ! This has got to be one the best solder station projects I have come across …… thank you !
Thank you sir..sa pagshare ng knowledge...dami kong natutunan sa mga unang videos ,napakalinis mo gumawa ..GODbless your channel..
Walang anuman! :D
Pretty interesting project, dude! Fantastic work! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks MC! Stay safe too!
For easier usage i would suggest using Jumpers on the Arduino,
That way you can always Hotswap the arduino if the chip is broken/damaged
Nice project, thank you for the hard work you've done, especially for measuring the thermistor resistance value.
I gotta say, ever since I saw you on the news about the Filipino kid that invented a device that charges your phone while walking I subscribed on your channel. Great content! Keep it up. That thermal paste hack tho. Touché hahaha galing mo man
This tutorial was what IM looking for a year, thanks for sharing 👍
there is no boring part on this video all seconds are very informative :D
i just stumbled onto this video from doing a YT search. after watching this video (my 1st from your channel) i decided to sub/bell. thanks for the great info and making it real clear (which includes the superb A/V).
So good. This is best project i have ever seen.
couldn't agree more
Thank you!
it's cool that I was able to return to this channel just by searching ASCAS.
I love the idea of thermal paste inside the tip
I completely understand how to make this and I WANT to make this, but I literally don't have the knowledge for it. I don't understand technical diagrams/schematics and I would have literally no idea how to tune or find out all the voltages stuff. However, thank you so much for making this video. I hope I can make this some day :')
I really love your mini prototyping projects!
Perfection, except for the cringe moment when you used a flat head screw without it being countersunk. 😜
I was like, nooooo.
Thanks! I ran out of round heads of that size :( It was against my will
I ordered the boards and just waiting for them to come! Thanks
Your joints are on point! You should do a tutorial on basic soldering. I that LTC chip on the vid one of your new projects? Looks like a big project. Once again, great tutorial!
Thank you! I plan to post one someday. Yes! It's for a 12 cell lithium SPI BMS project I'm working on.
im already build this, so far this is the best, now im waiting for another version like t12 😂
the best project on youtube for beginners in electronics who want to build a variable temp soldering station, brilliant work, thank you so much. I will do a bit of research on how to detect idle on the base to sleep the iron, but any tips would be welcome.
Applying thermal paste is a brilliant idea.
Ngayon ko lang ulit naalala to si sir angelo
Napanood ko dati sa tv Yung video nya regarding sa piezoelectric generator
Na amaze ako non kasi nabalita sa tv yon
Naalala ko lang damit nya nung nasa table sya tas nakasalamin sya
Nung hinanap ko ibang video regarding sayo sir nagulat ako hehe
Nakaka inspire sobra hehe mahilig din ako sa electronics, sa mga pangangalikot
Skl hehe, idol ka sir angelo
Btw tanong ko lang po saan kayo na order ng parts niyan sa manila hehe
Salamat sir angelo !
Idol!!
This video is awesome! 🥰
Galing! Lulet! Astig! Thank you for your sharing Sir.
The thermal paste "hack" was something I didn't expect, and that's awesome!👍 Hope you'll have more projects in the future; we like them😄!
Thanks man! It means a lot!
I would be worried about using thermal paste as most of them degrade around the 300 degree mark
Love the idea of thermal grease. I will use it on my station.
Fantastic, you made me go to back to Proteus again (abandoned since 2014). I will try a slight add thinking on using it hours in a real job. I miss someting to reduce temp when device is in support unused waiting for Next solder attempt. I think a LDR placed on the external support could do the job, when dark comes "handle on support" the arduino could pass to económic Mode. When darkness goes away "Handle out of support" back to normal Mode again. Just an additional 2 pin plug for the external LDR and some board modification.
You never fail to impress me dude 😍
❤️
I decided to use a pin header for the connections. Plus, I figured why you are able to disconnect the soldering iron: in case the soldering iron gets destroyed, you can replace it easily.
A good video would be showing those of us that are interested in learning the Arduino code would be watching you explain the program that you developed for this project. Thanks for the video.
Another excellent video!! Thumbs up!!❤️😊
Thanks Manny! :D
@@TechBuilderThank you din sir for keeping me inspired! Love your videos!😊
This is honestly better than every commercial soldering station I've bought or used.
Good project but ... there are some issues with this setup:
1- The very cheap Hakko clones handles do not have ceramic heaters. I storngly suggest replacing the heating element for the Hakko 1321.
2- If the heating element is a Hakko 1321 (or clone of that) ceramic heating element then the iron will have 50W of power and have JK junction sensors, not thermistors.
3- Even if IRFZ44N is a logic level mosfet (for 5V logic) at least for up to 10A-20A Drain current it requires a drive since you're actuating the mosfet with a PWM cycle. I imagine the PWM cycle could reach 30KHz-50KHz ... so that means a transistor to drive the base is necessary.
4- A simple linear regulator even in a TO-92 package would suffice to be the source power for the arduino and Display there's no need for the module used although of course that works also.
Thanks! I did mention in in the video to replace the clone heating element with an original one, they're pretty cheap too. Yep, other models use thermocouples, the MAX6675 would work well with k-types. The PWM frequency with pin 10 was left on Arduino's default frequency of 490Hz, the IRFZ44N should suffice. I've built three of these already, they're pretty stable. The IRLB4132 on the other hand is my favourite logic level MOSFETs for most PWM projects below 30V. For the regulator, I'm assuming you're referring to the 78L05. Dont forget, that the LCD backlight is relatively power hungry if a linear regulator were to be used for a 24V-5V voltage difference (if vin is bypassed). The system on standby runs at around 0.12A at 5V, at 24V the heat dissipated is around 2.2W, most TO-92 linear regulators are limited to 1W. In my experience these often fail fast when the thermals are neglected. The TO-220 7805 would be a wise choice, but heatsinking would probably be required. Regardless if it was board mounted or D2PAK soldered, it's going to dissipate too much heat. I went with the buck since the specific model to keep the board small, cool and effecient. Bucks are kinda cheap these days :) But I guess there's no stopping on anyone who decides to hotwire a linear reg on the buck pins.
@@TechBuilder If you only use 490Hz then it may be stable since the gate will have time to discharge and charge with not a significant amount of RC dumping effect. But the change for a 1321 ceramic heating element I strongly suggest. It's a big difference specially when it comes to heating times. It heats to the setpoint temperature much faster then those pre-instaled in very cheap 907 handles. And also they're not that expensive.
I also prefer the IRBL4132 but I think I have the same problem you have ... a ton of IRFZ44N lying around waiting to be used :)
About the linear regulator well with the display being a 1602 you're right a TO-220 would be advisable, with a heatsink. Like I said the small buck converter works just fine.
Just ordered your PCB!
Thanks! It's a safe and stable build. Enjoy! :D
lol nice , never seen before, replacement for original connector, old 5 pin audio jack. Nice idea.
I like ur video because u finish it with very efficient time. Love u
Very interesting, I ended up enjoy the 3 first minutes (boring part), the most ;) Thanks.
Thanks too! :D
Project was clean, case was minimal, Nice!
Thank you! :)
Top marks for your project, very nice, thanks for sharing.
Blown away. You are my hero
nice project and explain is in detail.
thanks for making video of it.
Hats off mah dude! off to the next version lipo powered smart soldering iron like the TS100 hehehe
Thanks tim! G! ❤️
Very awesome work!
Thank you! :D
Круто! Просто и максимально доходчиво! Однозначно повторю. Спасибо!!!
A welder w101 is a good as is alternative. Heat goes from 300f to 850f. I used all sorts of parts so I needed highest for the bubbling for high voltage parts.
What do your heating-element and the inside of the tips look like when you exchange them after having used thermal paste between them? The datasheets of most thermal pastes I could find indicate that they decompose well below common soldering temperatures.
Very cool project buddy, I hope I would build a similar one soon , it's really nice
I plan to use this for a mini SMD hotplate. I am planning to use some 3D Printer heater cartridges.
So sick. Thank you my man! Really want to do this.
У него был модель нагреавтелного элемента A1321 а там стоит термистор 50 ом (при температуре 25 г)
У меня оказывается нагреавтелный элемент A1322 с термопарой 1.0 ом (при температуре 25 г)
Excellent video, and intriguing project that I will surely be building soon!!
Thank you! Have fun! :D
I can use with drill machine battery (18v 5A)? Where we don't have access to electricity.
Most definitely! I sometimes hook up mine with Dewalt and Makita batts.
Will this work with the iron Hakko FX888D as I have spare iron will be good to make Arduino station.
Great tutorial!
and bro, that's a beautifully tinned tip
Thanks man! ❤️
@@TechBuilder May I suggest, next project be a soldering station with a T12 or JBC style iron
Will make a tutorial once I get my hands on one :)
@@TechBuilder good luck bro
Nice project. I'm hoping that you'll make a T12 soldering station using through hole components.
Thanks for sharing this project build
Thanks bud. This is awesome. Gonna try it. Keep inspiring.
Additional idea for u: u actually can use pd trigger for power supply. It can reaches 20 v and it's enough for soldering iron
There is a T12 version. You should definitely take look at those.
This tutorial so owesome. Thank you soooo much
That's a freak'n good vid mate! God, I'm glac you did this,thanks alot, A LOT!!!! Just a little question though: can you tell us an average price of the project (without power supply) ?? Thanks again.
Could you get enough resolution by swapping the positions of R1 and R2 @2:03, or is there a reason you can't wire the thermistor before R1?
У меня сопротивление у датчика всего 1.5 ома (при температуре 30 г). А не 50 ома как у вас. И когда подал напряжение 12в (то что был в руках) сопротивление датчика поднялось до 120 ома (к сожалению не было возможности измерять температуру наконечнике)
Как мне поступить? Хочу повторить проект.
Как я понял надо заново рассчитать сопротивление резисторов да? Не могли бы помочь? Спасибо заранее.
You had done a great job on this soldering station. Perhaps you can design a desoldering station for your later project. de-soldering stations are very useful tools and very expensive.
I made one! Now that you've mentioned it, I'll make a video about it! :D
Beautiful piece of work ,♥️ subbed
Is that possible with a MOSFET driver and irfz44n, I can't find IRL version. If possible then can you say the frequency needs for MOSFET driver? Please 🥺🙏
LOL adding thermal paste, that's new to me but it makes sense.
I made bb8 from your inspiration on my channel
And may be this is next one
It looks so professional. Can you make hot air soldering station next?
Thanks! I can but it's not practical since hot air stations are already cheap. I'm planning to make a DIY one nonetheless.
Maraming Salamat Kaibigan 😊😊😊
Nice haha pag filipino pala na gumagawa ng mga ganitohhhh.
hehehe, salamat sir!
Most thermal compounds are not able to withstand 350°C and will degrade. Make sure you choose high temp stuff
Why did you run the +5V on the pcb from the Arduino that power's up the LM358 and the LCD display through the A3 pin of the Arduino?, does that not affect something?, and still the schematic doesn't show that connection. And another thing is that driving the mosfet directly from Arduino is not quite ideal because the output is only 5V and the mosfet will not be fully opened and will run a bit hot, you need at least 10 V on the gate.
Why use a nano when any ATtiny would suffice? I’d also seriously considering overvolting it to 30-36VDC. There’s little risk of the element fusing, especially if you use a PID algorithm to stop the temperature rising so quickly, but it could be a great help when working on heavy gauge materials.
I’d also like to see this done with a T12 handle, as the cartridge tips tend to have significantly better thermal performance, if for a higher price. Their thermistor layout is also kinda odd from what I remember, so temperature sensing may be more difficult.
While ATtiny is cheaper, the beginner's in electronics are much more familiar with the Nano. Overvolting is a good idea but tiny bucks that can support above 30V are harder to find for the newbies. This tutorial was made in a way to let beginners get into MCUs and not scare them away. I have separate tech savy tutorial segments like the recent MPPT SCC where I didn't hold back from the component selection. I might revisit this old project and make a beefier and complex version of it. There's also a better version of the T12, I might use it if I were to revisit this project.
@@TechBuilder Any progress with T12 version model?
Looks like it would run nicely on 5x18650 li-ion cells. A portable soldering station with real guts would be great to have!
It would! :D I attached it to a 6S li-ion pack when I was soldering my solar panel's line when I was soldering on the roof 😅 I made a tiny version of this with some 18650 slots and a belt buckle.
@@TechBuilder 6s is 25.2v - it's ok at that voltage?
@@antontaylor4530 Yup! The 907 is designed for 24V use. You can over-volt it too. The buck can handle 28V, so it should do :D
@@TechBuilder Perfect!
I need one of these, although I may try to alter it to work with my Weller iron. Shouldn't be terribly difficult.
Thank you for your project, i made it but for the first while it doesn't work because you have missed the GND wire on you PCB (PDF) and when i added this wire every thing is was ok. So thanks any way.
Please make one video on how to design PCB Schematic Diagram and it's gerber file ? Which software you are using to design ? Which software you are using to design circuit diagram ? take example on ATmega328P with following components relay , dc power jack ,Screw terminals .
I've bought to a ts100 last year. From 20°C to 400°C in under 15 seconds at 24V.
I have one! They're pretty fast to be honest. I just dislike the grip on the thing. I use it often for remote repairs with a PD powerbank and the USB-C bypass board.
@@TechBuilder that's the new one, the ts80. I didn't like the usbc thing so I bought the old one. I didn't get how much would your diy project cost tho.
I meant the old one. I just added a USB passthrough so I can connect the old TS100 to USB-C, never knew they have a USB-C version now. The cost was roughly about $7, from where I got my parts (excluding the power supply).
@@TechBuilder oh, that's interesting, could you share a link to the board?
Very well done!👍
I wonder if is possible to use a 20x4 lcd instead of the 16x2 lcd?
You can use, but nothing is display at 3rd and 4th rows
@@yacsf ok, thank you!
Sweet project, thanks for making this ! Liked and subscribed too !