My suggestion would be to use two iron press, for even heat. You should cut the middle part of press which is not heating in compared to the edges of both iron press so they will be like "U" shape, Now insert both "U" shape iron press like one U shape is "n" & one is "u" so that heating could be more even
This hot plate idea is really interesting. I like how the main component is very common and cheap. Wish some other electronics youtubers would do more creative stuff like this.
A GFCI plug is needed first thing so you are protected during prototyping. Then like you said cover all the mains voltage connections before you consider the project finished. Also don’t let any mains voltage cables get within 1 cm of the low voltage cables. You don’t want failed wire insulation to energize your low voltage stuff at mains voltage.
A GFCI is mostly an American thing. In most of the European (230/240V) houses are RCD mounted central before the fuses. This ensures that even the wire is protected for human contact. So this will probably be optional. The one centimeter distance is a good thing but not only for direct contact, rather for the magnetic field and possibly induction of the low voltage circuit. All tough a proper insulation or housing around the ssr and heat element would be the first thing to do.
@@alberts6096 I tried to use an Arduino clone but could not get the sketch to load, even with appropriate drivers. But as soon as I got a genuine one, it uploaded instantly. It started well, But I think my thermocouple blew on first test (possibly pressure buildup?) as it showed ambient 19 degrees C on switch on, but after I pressed start, it climbed then showed 0 degrees C. I believe the code needed a temp reading to control the relay on/off state and because it was at Zero, the iron temp rocketed. There was a loud crack and I cut the power. I think the code needs a failsafe that checks the thermocouple temp and if it is zero, it turns off the relay. I have not tried yet, plus I need to order a new thermocouple. I am also adding a tilt switch to the arduino pin out to the relay so it only turns on if the apparatus is level. I managed to cut the power quickly as I always use a dead switch when testing new mains voltage circuits. This is a press button connected to a relay, which only allows mains power to turn on if the button is held down. I used a old NowTv power supply to power the relay (12v) which was just removed and used in the same box as the relay and switch circuit. This is in series in a short extension lead, and makes me keep one hand out of anything potentially live. And if I jump due to a loud noise, my hand releases the button automatically cutting the power. An isolation transformer and Variac are also great tools to have.
3:20 My guess it is an over-temperature cut-off (if the bi-metal switch fails and the iron remains on too long). My electric kettle had one, which bends and turns off a physical switch when the water is boiling. In the iron, it may serve a similar purpose of a "fuse" for temperature
I believe the mystery component is used to prevent the steam function from working when the iron is too cold to boil the water. It will block the water from flowing until it gets to a certain temperature and then it pops open. It's normally a much louder pop than the on/off switch.
This is a great design and something I've thought about for a long time. The uneven heating is something I thought about quite a bit too and I suspect that adding a larger 10mm thick aluminium plate on top of the iron would help with this. It would add a lot of extra mass meaning it would take longer to heat but it should help spread the heat more evenly and help retain the heat as well. I did something slightly similar to this years ago where I used an electric griddle and a cast iron pan on top of that. I didn't have any of the fine temperature controls or ability to set a profile but it did work quite well. Although it took a long time to get the pan up to temp the cast iron gave very even heating and kept the temps very stable.
I've been waiting for this video. Thank you for making this and explaining smd reflow. It really ties the topic together from end to end when trying to dyi instead of saving for months or years to buy a decent size machine.
good job- I as thinking about doing something similar with a small induction hob and a bit of steel plate - but ended up using an old pan on the top of the stove instead as that worked out well for me - look forward to see how this progresses
I have a hotplate for cooking I took apart completely, mounted the metal temperature sensor included with a PID controller - in the center against the ceramics, using metal brackets held firmly by the normal mounting mechanism. Then I use the PID controller with the SSR with a socket fitting the hotplate, set temperature, turn on hotplate - and lit it settle/tune. Nice and compact, no exposed wiring around hotplate - If you do this, Do *NOT* forget proper grounding/protection.
That component you were asking about looks like a bimetal temperature protection switch. One side is made of one type of metal, then the other side is made of a different type of metal that heats and cools at a different rate, so one side heats up faster than the other and pops the switch inside out, making the connection, and switching the kettle off.
This is a good opportunity to apply predictive control, since you know the shape of the curve you want, the control system can "plan ahead" and give you much tighter results than with pid control.
Looks good. Nice alternative to a reflow oven if needing to scrape every penny. One thing though, those mains wires are undersized and should be double insulated. I'd use at least 1.5mm^2 if not 2.5mm^2 for the mains connections and keep all connections inside plastic enclosures. Oh and for anyone wanting to build this for home, all mains connections should be properly insulated so you can't physically touch it without full intent to do so. Regardless if you have a GFCI or RCD or not.
I’m sure you figured out but I mailed it if you use what is the base its gonna warp as your plate heats up one side and dries it faster than the bottom. Wood has about 8-13% water here in GA (depending on where you live). POC: I’ve had a silicon mat on wood and seen it bubble up underneath because it’s basically steaming up under the mat.
This is a cool project. You should add a mode where it ramps up the temperature then holds it at or just under the temperature where the solder melts. This would be very useful for removing high pin count devices.
creating a box to isolate the heating element from the ambient would make any difference in the heat distribution and/or power consumption? I think it's worth a test. like a regular house oven or something, containing the heat might be good both for reaching the desired temperature faster and might also help with the distribution. Great project!
Adding a piece of metal on top as a plate would help even out the heat. The only thing is, you might need to test with or without ribs (on the bottom side), with those ribs running parallel to the length of the iron, or perpendicular. This could change the way heat propagates through the metal. One direction or the other would allow for a more uniform heating. But then again, just a flat plate might be sufficient. Then put a thermocouple poking through the iron plate to make contact with the top plate so you can get a more accurate temperature going into the pcbs.
I have a similar project but using a 1kW ring from a table top stove secured to a similar size frying pan. Not for solder reflow, for burning wood for my smoker. Not yet built, but getting close.
You could add a fan to help wick away the heat for the final leg of the process. The mass of the ceramic iron means it will always take some time to cool down properly. This could be solved with a fan directed at the top of the PCB that switches on at a set point in the cycle. You'd obviously want the right sized fan that doesn't blow your components clean off the PCB though!
Modern irons like that have very limited amount of metal, and low thermal mass. Its better to use an old iron with thick metal, you get more even heating. You can also try a cover over the pcb, to keep heat in and make the temperature more even. A glass Pyrex bowl can work very well.
I was thinking if he were to pour a heat resistant epoxy into the center of the iron's inner cavity, it would help even out the temps. By increasing the thermal mass though, it would also increase the heat up time, and cool off time, but it would be a more even heat.
Felicitaciones muy buen proyecto, ojalá pronto este en el canal de España... Es una herramienta que es muy necesaria para lo que nos dedicamos a diseñar. Saludos desde Colombia.
Clever!, I was wondering how to build one last week to reflow something. It's worth saying the iron will reach X temperature and then the energy will cut off, and this will repeat in cycles. Right now I'm exploring using a lamp (others had success with this) and the benefit is constant temperature, while the range is controlled via distance. Nice project.
Putting some insulation under the heater will help with the heat being even, as I suspect that the holes are acting like tiny little fins on a heatsink. Others have suggested a thin aluminum plate, but I don't think that will be required if you stuff the underside with some insulation. You can test for how 'even' the heat is by turning it on very low, and misting IPA over the hot plate. The hotter parts will evaporate first, showing you the outline of what is hot and what is cooler. Just don't do it too much, and get dizzy from all the vapor.
Multi zone control is interesting and sometimes essential, however you won't get much benefit from it when having only one heating element. Once you have more, then it's a good solution to have to keep the plate homogenous. For the best results you would need one control circuit per zone. In your case however, that would be OTT, that is usually used in heated-plates hydraulic presses. There is something that you can do with the second TC, and that is a safety control. In case of failure of the main TC, your Arduino can cut off the heat if you get a runaway effect. People may argue that when a TC fails, it goes to an open circuit condition, which is true, and that in itself is a safety feature. What it cannot do is prevent the reading from going to zero if you have an insulation fault, making the heat control go to full power. As the reading continues being below the set point, it won't stop heating. If your safety TC is set to 5 or 10ºC above the set point, and the temperature goes above the safety, something went wrong, and the Arduino can produce an alarm and cut off the power. What I do, as passed on to me by my teachers, is to be sceptic and look for every way that it can possibly go wrong. I can then look for solutions and make things more safe and robust. It's good to know that you share the same mindset, and by posting your videos, other people may get inspired in doing the same. Using an SSR is the best solution I know of for heating control. They are silent, more robust that electromechanical switches, and the speed of operation is way faster. When using a PID control, the response will be far smoother. Two thumbs up. The solder graphs were a very nice touch. It's important to look into the existing documentation, or generate your own if it's about something new. Being aware of that is invaluable for any technician, professional or amateur. What I would like to see is a cover of the high voltage part while you are testing your prototype, even if it's just electrical tape covering the exposed parts. You did mention making a cover, however any moment that you have dangerous levels of voltage exposed, all sorts of accidents could happen. I'm sure you are careful and experienced enough to take your precautions, it's the lesser experienced that I'm mostly concerned about. I've always found the best time to acquire good practices to be at the beginning, before any bad habits sink in. In fact, why not some videos approaching safety precautions? There are 2 moments in time that are the most dangerous in a technician's life. When starting off knowing nothing, and when he fools himself into thinking he already knows enough to bypass rules and directives. Spoiler alert, no one ever knows enough for the second one. People who reached old age unscathed were either very lucky, or paid attention to the safety aspects and listened to that inner voice that makes us second guess ourselves. Even very experienced people make mistakes and end up risking their lives, as it happened to a colleague of mine. He survived electrocution with very minimal temporary consequences. At the time he was repairing an industrial oven. Turned off the main switch and was sure about that. What he didn't know was that there was a separate power line in parallel that kept the machine powered when turned off. That should never happen, so he went in without checking the voltage. If it wasn't for a colleague close to him, his life would have ended that very same day. I don't mean to scald or scare off anyone, but the risks are real and they should always be taken seriously. Please, don't make it easy for accidents to happen. It's way more fun to end a day's work and everyone meeting up at the local pub for a pint and a couple of laughs. Overall, good job with the video. Keep it up.
Great work . I too took the design from GreatScott video ,with a circuit schematic from AfteEarth, and designed one myself Solder Reflow Plate PCB with a larger hot bed area of 120x70mm and a nextion 3.2” lcd touch for controls and display a heating curve on a chart. Anyone can download the pcb and schematics files. Enjoy!
hello excellent tutorial Thank you making a contribution to the project a curve programmer can be implemented to achieve the desired curve for each type of solder paste, with the following variables * set temperature * changeover time from one set to another * duration time lasts each set Greetings from Colombia
That temperature control material is Brass and copper (Bi-metallic strip). When the temperature increases that strip will bend and deform. So the connection to the Iron box will cut. After the heat reduces then it regains its original shape and size same as elastic property. this is a mechanically control system. Use a 3-5mm copper plate on the iron box. It will help you for temperature distribution evenly. copper thermal conductivity 410-420 w/mK
Very cheap and good coding for matching the curve I wish to use in the next version sandwich plate because all the surface is covered and you may not get cold spots . cheer
I love this idea and will make something similar in the future, because big heat plates are just to expensive. But maybe I'm not going with an iron. The first thing that came to mind as you mentioned the heat distribution problem was a heatbed of 3d printers. Some of them also work with 230v and could be used for this. I think so because one time I had a broken sensor and the bed just got hot as hell. Anyway, looking forward to building this and getting my first smd boards soldered
I've read a lot of the comments and can't find this question so here goes... Do you think this would still work in the U.S.? As you know we run on 120v / 60Hz and a 3000W iron wouldn't work here do to the 15A breaker limit in most homes. We have ~1200W to ~2000W irons typically. Thank you for your time and hard work!
As far as i know in most home in US you got actually two 120V circuit out of phase. Tour typical outlets goes to only one of them, but you got few special outlets with the two circuit in series so that you have 240v and thus double the max power or maybe more for the most demanding devices (oven, heater, etc ... ). So check with a local electrician if you are not sure but that should be a possibility. But the main problem is you might have hard time buying a 240V 3000w there. Whatever you do be super careful when playing with main voltage, get a pro electrician and hire him for one hour to explain you basics of safety and eventually check your circuit before you turn it on. 60$ is much cheaper than a trip to urgency or a home fire start.
Come to think of it, if you upgrade your 3D printer board, you could use the old board for something like this, it comes with PID and all. Might need solid state relay if you want to use AC for heating though, like how they do the beds of large format printers.
hello Andrei, great hot plate design. I built one with a slightly smaller iron but it does ok, takes a little bit longer to heat up but the temp is a bit more even all the way across. I was wondering of you ever got around to making the rotary encoder functionable? I am a great builder and fabricator but I am a terrible coder...lol I would like to have it so I can set one temp and have it stay there for heating phones to open them up and for de-soldering scrap pcb's.
I'm using a similar build inspired by maker moekoe - It works very well so far. Maybe an additional copper plate or so on top would help a bit with a more even heat dissipation.
I would personally recommend to be careful with mains wires, in case of the awg cables, the main ones have a double insulation, not a simple one to lower electric shock hasard, also the cable that go to the heater may need to be protected from heat, or else, the insulation could easily go out. Also you are clearly using ATX power supply wires to connect the power cord to the ssr, the are comonly (if not all the time) 20AWG or 18AWG, wich means a section of .6mm^2 or 0.8mm^2. clearly undersized for 13 amps Theses precautions may not be necessary on a prototype, but on a final machine taht will be used oftenly, safety should be mandatory. Also, do you think of aquiring a pick and place, maybe the index project by stephen hawes will intrest you
Muito obrigado !!! Como sempre seus projetos são incríveis!!! Por favor faca mais projetos de equipamentos e ferramentas utils para o laboratório e para a oficina!!!
I think it could help evening the heat to add a kind of pretty thick aluminium sheet or the likes on top of the iron which would distribute the heat more even and also give a more controlled temperature curve. pretty neat project btw
Excelente proyecto profesor. Porqué no pruebas colocar una placa de aluminio con una separación considerable sobre la plancha posiblemente se distribuya el calor más uniformemente.
My suggestion would be to use two iron press, for even heat. You should cut the middle part of press which is not heating in compared to the edges of both iron press so they will be like "U" shape, Now insert both "U" shape iron press like one U shape is "n" & one is "u" so that heating could be more even
Nice project :) Apparently, the disc is a Bimetallic 'snap' disk: 'Snap Disc, or snap switch thermostats are bimetal mechanical thermostats that function via the thermal expansion and contraction of a bimetal disc that “snaps” from a convex to a concave shape at a set temperature. When the disc “snaps”, it either completes or interrupts a circuit.' I couldn't see how it achieved this in the iron circuit though :/
Insulate the back part of the heating plate with rock wool or some other equivalent insulator. This will help you a lot with heat distribution and heating curve.
a local store is selling cheap, repurposed, LARGE toaster ovens as powder coating ovens, with a different controller it could make a beastly soldering oven.
Maybe you could improve the heat dissipation by adding a big copper plate on top of the iron. You could also measure the temperature near the top of the (copper) plate for more accurate temp readings
production environments use convection fans and the whole process is enclosed. also...preheat the plate. maybe a high temp epoxy and a couple of steel bolts/threaded rod to help conduct across the surface and add a more thermally conductive mass to help even things out for continuous running?
Just a though… what about using a stand alone induction hob with just the base of a non stick pan as the heater…? The buffalo hobs have very fine control
I'd suggest you add a bright red LED just to be on the safer side. Great project. BTW I'd trust more 20Amp Taiwanese than 40 Amp Chinese SSR. Anyway nice video.
Very cool project, but the parts you used add up to quite a lot, considering that you can buy a (pre built) digital hot plate (which is square, has digital settings, even heating and half decent enclosure) for as little as $20 or so on aliexpress. The only way this project can be worthwhile is if you can buy the same controller they use on the hotplate, OR, you just set a fixed temperature on the iron, and don't use any other parts; still, you need an enclosure. Btw, in my parts, ceramic irons are quite a bit more expensive.
the mystery component is most likely a thermal switch - i would have to look at how it's installed including wiring to see if it's used for safety or control
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My suggestion would be to use two iron press, for even heat.
You should cut the middle part of press which is not heating in compared to the edges of both iron press so they will be like "U" shape,
Now insert both "U" shape iron press like one U shape is "n" & one is "u" so that heating could be more even
The on/off button rating is 3 Amps, how did you connect it? As you mentioned in your video the iron consumption is 13 Amps
This hot plate idea is really interesting. I like how the main component is very common and cheap. Wish some other electronics youtubers would do more creative stuff like this.
A GFCI plug is needed first thing so you are protected during prototyping. Then like you said cover all the mains voltage connections before you consider the project finished. Also don’t let any mains voltage cables get within 1 cm of the low voltage cables. You don’t want failed wire insulation to energize your low voltage stuff at mains voltage.
Agreed
A GFCI is mostly an American thing. In most of the European (230/240V) houses are RCD mounted central before the fuses. This ensures that even the wire is protected for human contact. So this will probably be optional.
The one centimeter distance is a good thing but not only for direct contact, rather for the magnetic field and possibly induction of the low voltage circuit. All tough a proper insulation or housing around the ssr and heat element would be the first thing to do.
This is the most bootleg looking DIY hotplate I've seen, and honestly I love it. The raw look of it is such a fun aesthetic.
With only a minor risk of death!
Never, in the history of my UA-cam project viewings have I ordered all the parts so quickly! Thanks for sharing.
one month later, how is your project going?
@@alberts6096 I tried to use an Arduino clone but could not get the sketch to load, even with appropriate drivers. But as soon as I got a genuine one, it uploaded instantly.
It started well, But I think my thermocouple blew on first test (possibly pressure buildup?) as it showed ambient 19 degrees C on switch on, but after I pressed start, it climbed then showed 0 degrees C.
I believe the code needed a temp reading to control the relay on/off state and because it was at Zero, the iron temp rocketed. There was a loud crack and I cut the power. I think the code needs a failsafe that checks the thermocouple temp and if it is zero, it turns off the relay. I have not tried yet, plus I need to order a new thermocouple. I am also adding a tilt switch to the arduino pin out to the relay so it only turns on if the apparatus is level.
I managed to cut the power quickly as I always use a dead switch when testing new mains voltage circuits. This is a press button connected to a relay, which only allows mains power to turn on if the button is held down. I used a old NowTv power supply to power the relay (12v) which was just removed and used in the same box as the relay and switch circuit. This is in series in a short extension lead, and makes me keep one hand out of anything potentially live. And if I jump due to a loud noise, my hand releases the button automatically cutting the power. An isolation transformer and Variac are also great tools to have.
3:20 My guess it is an over-temperature cut-off (if the bi-metal switch fails and the iron remains on too long). My electric kettle had one, which bends and turns off a physical switch when the water is boiling. In the iron, it may serve a similar purpose of a "fuse" for temperature
It is for water dispenser
when press gets hot it release water by pushing pin upward.
So that steam will form .
In cold state it shut the valve .
Looks more like an auto-steam switch. When on it would only allow water to flow into the hot plate if the temperature is high to cause it to steam
my guess exactly Narayan-san
Tankiu wary matching .🤔🌹🙏
Tankiu wary matching his you for. 🌹🤔
Your the first person I've seen to use a clothing iron to make a reflow hotplate and it's genius
I believe the mystery component is used to prevent the steam function from working when the iron is too cold to boil the water. It will block the water from flowing until it gets to a certain temperature and then it pops open. It's normally a much louder pop than the on/off switch.
I've been planning for building this with an old chapathi maker.... Now you made it way too easy for meh... Thanks a lot bro❣️.. love from india
3:20 That is bimetal disc. It reacts to temperature and used as anti drip in steam iron.
This is a great design and something I've thought about for a long time. The uneven heating is something I thought about quite a bit too and I suspect that adding a larger 10mm thick aluminium plate on top of the iron would help with this. It would add a lot of extra mass meaning it would take longer to heat but it should help spread the heat more evenly and help retain the heat as well. I did something slightly similar to this years ago where I used an electric griddle and a cast iron pan on top of that. I didn't have any of the fine temperature controls or ability to set a profile but it did work quite well. Although it took a long time to get the pan up to temp the cast iron gave very even heating and kept the temps very stable.
to improve heat distribution, attach aluminum plate to the iron plate! and then use that surface
I've been waiting for this video. Thank you for making this and explaining smd reflow. It really ties the topic together from end to end when trying to dyi instead of saving for months or years to buy a decent size machine.
good job- I as thinking about doing something similar with a small induction hob and a bit of steel plate - but ended up using an old pan on the top of the stove instead as that worked out well for me - look forward to see how this progresses
I have a hotplate for cooking I took apart completely, mounted the metal temperature sensor included with a PID controller - in the center against the ceramics, using metal brackets held firmly by the normal mounting mechanism.
Then I use the PID controller with the SSR with a socket fitting the hotplate, set temperature, turn on hotplate - and lit it settle/tune.
Nice and compact, no exposed wiring around hotplate - If you do this, Do *NOT* forget proper grounding/protection.
Thanks for sharing this neat idea on how to make a affordable reflow bench
That component you were asking about looks like a bimetal temperature protection switch. One side is made of one type of metal, then the other side is made of a different type of metal that heats and cools at a different rate, so one side heats up faster than the other and pops the switch inside out, making the connection, and switching the kettle off.
This is a good opportunity to apply predictive control, since you know the shape of the curve you want, the control system can "plan ahead" and give you much tighter results than with pid control.
Looks like Daniele Tartaglia is trying to *one-up* your circuit board wall art. I love these videos.
Just check his channel :) his looks nice as well
Первый раз вижу с русским субтитром
Молодец мужик
Уважуха !!!!
И задумка класс !!!!
This is fantastic! When I first saw your reflow hot plat I said: I want the same thing! So, great thank you for sharing.
Please cover and protect high voltage lines to prevent anyone from touching them :) otherwise nice project.
Towards the end of the video, he does say that he will cover them.
Also connect protective earth to the iron and add that connection to project schematic. It is very important when dealing with mains voltage.
3d printed cover would work
Yep those terminals on the relay dont look to good
It's a prototype, not a product for others. Chill
Looks good. Nice alternative to a reflow oven if needing to scrape every penny. One thing though, those mains wires are undersized and should be double insulated. I'd use at least 1.5mm^2 if not 2.5mm^2 for the mains connections and keep all connections inside plastic enclosures.
Oh and for anyone wanting to build this for home, all mains connections should be properly insulated so you can't physically touch it without full intent to do so. Regardless if you have a GFCI or RCD or not.
I’m sure you figured out but I mailed it if you use what is the base its gonna warp as your plate heats up one side and dries it faster than the bottom. Wood has about 8-13% water here in GA (depending on where you live).
POC: I’ve had a silicon mat on wood and seen it bubble up underneath because it’s basically steaming up under the mat.
This is a cool project. You should add a mode where it ramps up the temperature then holds it at or just under the temperature where the solder melts. This would be very useful for removing high pin count devices.
Good idea. I've placed PCBs on a clothes iron to soak the whole PCB, to allow removal of shielding cans that are soldered down very well.
creating a box to isolate the heating element from the ambient would make any difference in the heat distribution and/or power consumption? I think it's worth a test. like a regular house oven or something, containing the heat might be good both for reaching the desired temperature faster and might also help with the distribution. Great project!
The cover image says everything, gj dude.
Adding a piece of metal on top as a plate would help even out the heat. The only thing is, you might need to test with or without ribs (on the bottom side), with those ribs running parallel to the length of the iron, or perpendicular. This could change the way heat propagates through the metal. One direction or the other would allow for a more uniform heating. But then again, just a flat plate might be sufficient.
Then put a thermocouple poking through the iron plate to make contact with the top plate so you can get a more accurate temperature going into the pcbs.
I have a similar project but using a 1kW ring from a table top stove secured to a similar size frying pan. Not for solder reflow, for burning wood for my smoker.
Not yet built, but getting close.
Pretty nice, I definitely need to try this for my PCBs
You could add a fan to help wick away the heat for the final leg of the process.
The mass of the ceramic iron means it will always take some time to cool down properly. This could be solved with a fan directed at the top of the PCB that switches on at a set point in the cycle.
You'd obviously want the right sized fan that doesn't blow your components clean off the PCB though!
I would make it from the one plate electric cooker. It is secure with the case, just add more sophisticated electronic temperature control
Same thing I was thinking
Modern irons like that have very limited amount of metal, and low thermal mass.
Its better to use an old iron with thick metal, you get more even heating.
You can also try a cover over the pcb, to keep heat in and make the temperature more even. A glass Pyrex bowl can work very well.
I was thinking if he were to pour a heat resistant epoxy into the center of the iron's inner cavity, it would help even out the temps. By increasing the thermal mass though, it would also increase the heat up time, and cool off time, but it would be a more even heat.
@@PyroRob69 ... or just pack it with fine sand. 🙂
@@wizrom3046 I thought about that too but he has it upside down.
@@PyroRob69 good point. Maybe sand mixed with a heatproof cement, or plaster of Paris?
@@wizrom3046 Sand with a high temp epoxy might be good. Again, the density would probably affect the ability to heat and cool quickly.
Felicitaciones muy buen proyecto, ojalá pronto este en el canal de España... Es una herramienta que es muy necesaria para lo que nos dedicamos a diseñar. Saludos desde Colombia.
Clever!, I was wondering how to build one last week to reflow something. It's worth saying the iron will reach X temperature and then the energy will cut off, and this will repeat in cycles. Right now I'm exploring using a lamp (others had success with this) and the benefit is constant temperature, while the range is controlled via distance.
Nice project.
Putting some insulation under the heater will help with the heat being even, as I suspect that the holes are acting like tiny little fins on a heatsink. Others have suggested a thin aluminum plate, but I don't think that will be required if you stuff the underside with some insulation. You can test for how 'even' the heat is by turning it on very low, and misting IPA over the hot plate. The hotter parts will evaporate first, showing you the outline of what is hot and what is cooler. Just don't do it too much, and get dizzy from all the vapor.
Nice work. Very cool. I am impressed with how professional the soldering looks afterwards.
Multi zone control is interesting and sometimes essential, however you won't get much benefit from it when having only one heating element. Once you have more, then it's a good solution to have to keep the plate homogenous. For the best results you would need one control circuit per zone. In your case however, that would be OTT, that is usually used in heated-plates hydraulic presses.
There is something that you can do with the second TC, and that is a safety control. In case of failure of the main TC, your Arduino can cut off the heat if you get a runaway effect. People may argue that when a TC fails, it goes to an open circuit condition, which is true, and that in itself is a safety feature. What it cannot do is prevent the reading from going to zero if you have an insulation fault, making the heat control go to full power. As the reading continues being below the set point, it won't stop heating. If your safety TC is set to 5 or 10ºC above the set point, and the temperature goes above the safety, something went wrong, and the Arduino can produce an alarm and cut off the power.
What I do, as passed on to me by my teachers, is to be sceptic and look for every way that it can possibly go wrong. I can then look for solutions and make things more safe and robust. It's good to know that you share the same mindset, and by posting your videos, other people may get inspired in doing the same.
Using an SSR is the best solution I know of for heating control. They are silent, more robust that electromechanical switches, and the speed of operation is way faster. When using a PID control, the response will be far smoother. Two thumbs up.
The solder graphs were a very nice touch. It's important to look into the existing documentation, or generate your own if it's about something new. Being aware of that is invaluable for any technician, professional or amateur.
What I would like to see is a cover of the high voltage part while you are testing your prototype, even if it's just electrical tape covering the exposed parts. You did mention making a cover, however any moment that you have dangerous levels of voltage exposed, all sorts of accidents could happen. I'm sure you are careful and experienced enough to take your precautions, it's the lesser experienced that I'm mostly concerned about. I've always found the best time to acquire good practices to be at the beginning, before any bad habits sink in. In fact, why not some videos approaching safety precautions?
There are 2 moments in time that are the most dangerous in a technician's life. When starting off knowing nothing, and when he fools himself into thinking he already knows enough to bypass rules and directives. Spoiler alert, no one ever knows enough for the second one. People who reached old age unscathed were either very lucky, or paid attention to the safety aspects and listened to that inner voice that makes us second guess ourselves. Even very experienced people make mistakes and end up risking their lives, as it happened to a colleague of mine. He survived electrocution with very minimal temporary consequences. At the time he was repairing an industrial oven. Turned off the main switch and was sure about that. What he didn't know was that there was a separate power line in parallel that kept the machine powered when turned off. That should never happen, so he went in without checking the voltage. If it wasn't for a colleague close to him, his life would have ended that very same day.
I don't mean to scald or scare off anyone, but the risks are real and they should always be taken seriously. Please, don't make it easy for accidents to happen. It's way more fun to end a day's work and everyone meeting up at the local pub for a pint and a couple of laughs.
Overall, good job with the video. Keep it up.
Great work . I too took the design from GreatScott video ,with a circuit schematic from AfteEarth, and designed one myself Solder Reflow Plate PCB with a larger hot bed area of 120x70mm and a nextion 3.2” lcd touch for controls and display a heating curve on a chart. Anyone can download the pcb and schematics files. Enjoy!
hello excellent tutorial
Thank you
making a contribution to the project
a curve programmer can be implemented to achieve the desired curve for each type of solder paste,
with the following variables
* set temperature
* changeover time from one set to another
* duration time lasts each set
Greetings from Colombia
That temperature control material is Brass and copper (Bi-metallic strip). When the temperature increases that strip will bend and deform. So the connection to the Iron box will cut. After the heat reduces then it regains its original shape and size same as elastic property. this is a mechanically control system.
Use a 3-5mm copper plate on the iron box. It will help you for temperature distribution evenly. copper thermal conductivity 410-420 w/mK
Very cheap and good coding for matching the curve I wish to use in the next version sandwich plate because all the surface is covered and you may not get cold spots . cheer
You could use mosfets for the power control just use 2 in series but the second one needs a 180 degree turning
I love this idea and will make something similar in the future, because big heat plates are just to expensive.
But maybe I'm not going with an iron. The first thing that came to mind as you mentioned the heat distribution problem was a heatbed of 3d printers. Some of them also work with 230v and could be used for this. I think so because one time I had a broken sensor and the bed just got hot as hell.
Anyway, looking forward to building this and getting my first smd boards soldered
How high do you want it to go? You can get heatbeds up to 250°C. Do you have a better idea?
Wow 😍. Great idea with excellent explanation. Keep doing this type of work and share it through your videos. Thanks a lot ❤.
I've read a lot of the comments and can't find this question so here goes... Do you think this would still work in the U.S.? As you know we run on 120v / 60Hz and a 3000W iron wouldn't work here do to the 15A breaker limit in most homes. We have ~1200W to ~2000W irons typically. Thank you for your time and hard work!
Well you could use a 1500W instead. That should also work. 1500W is still a lot of power!
As far as i know in most home in US you got actually two 120V circuit out of phase. Tour typical outlets goes to only one of them, but you got few special outlets with the two circuit in series so that you have 240v and thus double the max power or maybe more for the most demanding devices (oven, heater, etc ... ). So check with a local electrician if you are not sure but that should be a possibility. But the main problem is you might have hard time buying a 240V 3000w there. Whatever you do be super careful when playing with main voltage, get a pro electrician and hire him for one hour to explain you basics of safety and eventually check your circuit before you turn it on. 60$ is much cheaper than a trip to urgency or a home fire start.
I've always wondered if this would be a viable way of doing it.
Thanks for doing the experiment!
Really superb now I can make my own smd soldering station at home.👍👍👍
Come to think of it, if you upgrade your 3D printer board, you could use the old board for something like this, it comes with PID and all. Might need solid state relay if you want to use AC for heating though, like how they do the beds of large format printers.
Les than 1 min in video, and I wish to thank you for this idea !
Graphite foil has excellent properties as a heat spreader... I think that can really improve the heat distribution.
Dobry, przydatny film. Okrągły bimetal zabezpiecza przed wyciekiem wody z żelazka jeśli temperatura jest za mała do produkcji pary.
hello Andrei, great hot plate design. I built one with a slightly smaller iron but it does ok, takes a little bit longer to heat up but the temp is a bit more even all the way across. I was wondering of you ever got around to making the rotary encoder functionable? I am a great builder and fabricator but I am a terrible coder...lol I would like to have it so I can set one temp and have it stay there for heating phones to open them up and for de-soldering scrap pcb's.
I'm using a similar build inspired by maker moekoe - It works very well so far. Maybe an additional copper plate or so on top would help a bit with a more even heat dissipation.
maker moekoe is crazy good :D
This is what I'm looking for!
Yes, please add PID controller in your code that would be a great idea.
Very nice project !!!!
Great work brother 👍
Maybe a 2mm sheet of aluminum put over de iron, with a 1mm gap can make a better distribution of hit. Good job!! Great video!!
What I would need to know is the temperature curve at the component side of the PCB... not the bottom of the heating shoe where heat accumulates.
Very cool video, could the iron hold a temperture around 70°C? Would be nice to have a tool to weaken the glue of smarthphone cases.
It should work for that, I e not done it myself yet but, I have seen people set a phone on the hotbed a 3Dprinter and set the temperature.
Nice, I just found a clothes iron, what a great project.
¿Y no ayudaría poner cobre bajo la superficie de la plancha para que la temperatura se distribuya mejor? Muy buen video, gracias.
Nice project. Congratulations!
I would personally recommend to be careful with mains wires, in case of the awg cables, the main ones have a double insulation, not a simple one to lower electric shock hasard, also the cable that go to the heater may need to be protected from heat, or else, the insulation could easily go out.
Also you are clearly using ATX power supply wires to connect the power cord to the ssr, the are comonly (if not all the time) 20AWG or 18AWG, wich means a section of .6mm^2 or 0.8mm^2. clearly undersized for 13 amps
Theses precautions may not be necessary on a prototype, but on a final machine taht will be used oftenly, safety should be mandatory. Also, do you think of aquiring a pick and place, maybe the index project by stephen hawes will intrest you
I would also suggest to take the mains wires away from the bottom. When a liquid spills on your table it will definitely creep under that plate.
Muito obrigado !!! Como sempre seus projetos são incríveis!!!
Por favor faca mais projetos de equipamentos e ferramentas utils para o laboratório e para a oficina!!!
Nice video mate 😊👍
That’s a clever idea! No need for a toaster oven.
hello nice project..
The heating plate in hair straighteners can be used as a heater. It also has a thermometer inside.
I think it could help evening the heat to add a kind of pretty thick aluminium sheet or the likes on top of the iron which would distribute the heat more even and also give a more controlled temperature curve. pretty neat project btw
I think a copper sheet would be better than aluminium due to better heat conductivity.
Very good but difficult for me to get understand but I love to watch 🙏
Excelente proyecto profesor. Porqué no pruebas colocar una placa de aluminio con una separación considerable sobre la plancha posiblemente se distribuya el calor más uniformemente.
Brilliant mind!
Is there any plan to do the same for through hole type components?
Through hole components need to be bath wave soldered.
My suggestion would be to use two iron press, for even heat.
You should cut the middle part of press which is not heating in compared to the edges of both iron press so they will be like "U" shape,
Now insert both "U" shape iron press like one U shape is "n" & one is "u" so that heating could be more even
Nice project :) Apparently, the disc is a Bimetallic 'snap' disk:
'Snap Disc, or snap switch thermostats are bimetal mechanical thermostats that function via the thermal expansion and contraction of a bimetal disc that “snaps” from a convex to a concave shape at a set temperature. When the disc “snaps”, it either completes or interrupts a circuit.'
I couldn't see how it achieved this in the iron circuit though :/
Wow this is awesome...waiting for the future updates...
Excellent project
a full pid control would make this project fully professional , also you gotta find a method to evenly spread the heat of the plate , good luck !
Insulate the back part of the heating plate with rock wool or some other equivalent insulator. This will help you a lot with heat distribution and heating curve.
a local store is selling cheap, repurposed, LARGE toaster ovens as powder coating ovens, with a different controller it could make a beastly soldering oven.
Putting a thick aluminum plate or cutting board on top of the iron plate may help to level and spread the heat. Good project. 👍ay
Maybe you could improve the heat dissipation by adding a big copper plate on top of the iron. You could also measure the temperature near the top of the (copper) plate for more accurate temp readings
production environments use convection fans and the whole process is enclosed.
also...preheat the plate.
maybe a high temp epoxy and a couple of steel bolts/threaded rod to help conduct across the surface and add a more thermally conductive mass to help even things out for continuous running?
Just a though… what about using a stand alone induction hob with just the base of a non stick pan as the heater…? The buffalo hobs have very fine control
Love this project and you did an amazing job in design and delivery.
But goddamn if there are `electronoobs` trying this sh*t please take care.
This project is really cool.
It's very interesting project, I'm waiting for next steps 😎 Thank You for knowledge You share!
I'd suggest you add a bright red LED just to be on the safer side. Great project. BTW I'd trust more 20Amp Taiwanese than 40 Amp Chinese SSR. Anyway nice video.
Excellent project sir! :)
3:25.That metal round copper plate was for overheat auto clicker controller..looks simple but effective
Very cool project, but the parts you used add up to quite a lot, considering that you can buy a (pre built) digital hot plate (which is square, has digital settings, even heating and half decent enclosure) for as little as $20 or so on aliexpress. The only way this project can be worthwhile is if you can buy the same controller they use on the hotplate, OR, you just set a fixed temperature on the iron, and don't use any other parts; still, you need an enclosure. Btw, in my parts, ceramic irons are quite a bit more expensive.
the mystery component is most likely a thermal switch - i would have to look at how it's installed including wiring to see if it's used for safety or control
Cover the surface with a carbon fiber mat (and fix with epoxy) so that you will have a far more uniform temp distribution
Hi there I believe the unknown disk is a an over Temp device that will show if it has gone over Temp in an inshorance clam
Hello, all
Thanks for the great video. What is the melting point of your solder paste
It's awesome project... this Is the typical content usually we electronic makers look for...😎😎
So simple and brilliant! Thank you!
Best idea ever for an DIY SMT HOTPLATE, even i use a similar hotplate
Definitely want some kind of insulation and shielding for this
this video gives me GreatScott! Vibes, I like it :)
Thank you for making this!!! You read my mind+
Awesome project! Was wondering, could a 3d printers heated bed be used instead of the iron?