How to Change the Rear Sway Bar Links in a Mazda CX9

How to replace the rear sway bar links in a 2015 Mazda CX9. The procedure applies to the first generation of Mazda CX9 made between the years 2006 to 2015. Broken or worn sway bar links will cause a rattle or clunking in the rear and you will notice a substantial increase in body roll. #mazdacx9 #oemtools #mazda
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-allen wrenches
-wrench set
-ratchet with sockets
-chisel
-hammer
-angle grinder with cutting disk
-safety glasses and ear plugs
-jack with stands
-ramps
Procedure:
The rear wheels do need to be removed to gain access to the sway bar link mounting point. Safely elevate the vehicle and remove the wheel. The lug nuts are 21mm.
Place a jack stand under the vehicle as a safety.
To remove the old link, the bolt needs to be removed from the control arm. On this style, you can use an allen wrench to hold the center and then remove the nut. I found a 3/16 allen wrench fit best even after cleaning the hole. The nut is a 14mm.
A block of wood was used to hold the allen wrench in place.
It did loosen slightly until the allen stud stripped. Using an angle grinder with a cutting disc, the stud was cut down the center to make the nut split into two pieces. Be extremely careful so you don’t cut the control arm.
Use a chisel to break apart the nut.
Finally the old link can be removed. The parking brake cable is also attached to this fastening point. The has a tab that fits into an alignment hole.
Compare the old and new sway bar links to ensure they are the same.
Install the new sway bar link into the parking brake cable bracket, then into the control arm and thread on the nut. Sizes may vary, the hex in the threaded stud required a 17mm and the nut was a 15mm.
The torque specification for the nut is 34-40 ft lbs or 46-54 Newton meters.
The wheel is then reinstalled. The torque specifications for the lug nuts are 90 ft-lbs or 122 Newton meters.
I find it easier to go under the vehicle when it’s on ramps to remove the links from the sway bar.
Now moving to the opposite side. Again is safely elevating the vehicle and then removing the wheel.
Place a jack stand under the vehicle.
Assuming this side will have the same issue, I just went straight to cutting the nut.
Again was using that chisel to break apart the nut.
Then remove the old link.
The new link is then installed. Use a wrench to hold the backside while using the ratchet and socket to tighten up the nut. If the link doesn’t line up with the sway bar, don’t worry about that as it rotates.
The torque specification for the nut is 34-40 ft lbs or 46-54 Newton meters.
Reinstall the wheel, the torque specifications for the lug nuts is 90 ft-lbs or 122 Newton meters.
Now the vehicle is driven onto ramps so we can work underneath it.
I tried again using a wrench with an allen wrench to hold the threaded stud in place. So I went back to my previous method of using an angle grinder to slice the nut in half.
A block of wood was placed behind the sway bar to keep it in place when splitting the nut apart with a chisel. Then the old link can be removed.
Moving onto the other side before bolting the sway bar link in place. With the sway bar disconnected, I’m able to swing it down further for easier access.
The angle grinder is used to split that nut in half again. Then the chisel is used to break it apart and the old link is removed.
Now bolt the sway bar back up. The sway bar and links are aligned, and the threaded stud is put into place. The nut is installed. This is the same process as previously, a wrench is used to hold the stud while a ratchet and socket are used to tighten the nut.
The torque specification for the nut is 34-40 ft lbs or 46-54 Newton meters. Onto the opposite side. The sway bar link is put into place and the nut is threaded on. Again the torque specifications for the nut are 34-40 ft lbs or 46-54 newton meters.
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[@dackbowland1876]

Great video. Could have used this years ago haha. Here’s another great sway link tip for salt belt victims :
You can look at a sway link like this one and just know if it will need to be cut out or not. so if it needs to be cut out I always start by trying to over tighten the nut as hard and fast as possible with the hope of the stud not spinning ( use cheap shitty vice grip on stud if possible) and the nut overtightening and ripping the stud apart. Then there is no need for angle grinder nut split. Much faster and for sure worth a shot when it’s in very tight places where you would need a low profile angle grinder lots of time and patience. Personal example of tight spot for sway link is front links on 90’s sc400. Always worth trying this first if you happen to have this car lol. Never does any notable damage to anything but sway link that needs replaced anyways. I will clean up and re spray some sealant /paint on the small new exposed metal on sway bar or strut sway link mount / where ever else the sway link connects. Lots of cars are different but this works for most that I’ve come across that needed sway links. Not a tech or in auto industry but have heard this very tip from people who are.

[@bonniemechefske3838]

Holy cow. Folks who don't want to pay their mechanic should have to watch videos of how its done. Get your angle grinder? No thank you. Take my money! Love knowing how it's done though! Thanks again!

[@Creativesrilk]

😂😂

[@dackbowland1876]

I take it you are very lucky and don’t have to deal with rust 😅